This is the best filmed, best step by step video I found for my 2001 Astro. All the other videos I've seen don't include removing the throttle bracket, which is what I have to do. Thanks!
Cheers mate! Everyone has a different prospective in life and it influences how we share information =) I am always glad to know my little videos might lend a helping hand to someone else. Thank you for commenting!
Huge thanks for this video! You’re the only one I could find who mentions how how to remove the throttle bracket. I just got the old one out. Now I gotta drill out the rivets. I’m bummed to find out they didn’t include replacement screws with my new coil though.
You welcome! I am glad I finally posted it as it was recorded a few years ago! When I picked up the new ignition coil and noted no bracket, I was already preparing myself to see rivets on the existing bracket. I hope you can easily drill out the rivets like how I showed in the video!
Very interesting and informative video. I'm fixing everything I can on a 98 Astro to make it a camping vehicle suitable to drive on 1000 mile round trips. At almost 300,000 miles now, 1 owner, i have found it extremely reliable. Most issues were from replacement parts not being even 10% as reliable as the OEM parts. I have 2 new spare coils and if I ever have starting or performance problems, I now know that the throttle cable bracket has to be removed. I bought a new set of plug wires and haven't been able to figure out how to change them. Also have one of the three exhaust bolts broken at the triangular flange under the passenger door area. Looks like a big job to drill out a 3/8 or 7/16 shank
I watched your video again. Thanks for your response. Nice job on the video! I see I have a job ahead of me but I am thinking that is going to solve my problem.
Sorry for the delayed response; as you dig into the job, if you have questions post away and I hope I can help. That said, I tried my best to cover potential issues in the video.
Thanks for the video man it was of great help. Love that your daughter conducted her own tutorial of leaf on log operation. LOL. Shes following in your utube footsteps!!
Cool video what year is your van I’m in cloverdale tackle the coq every few months. I have an issue at around 70-80 KPH. Stutter cut out like engine shuts off for a millisecond stop into the gas pedal and it smooths right out. No codes either. Dang changed cap rotor plugs tps iac. Fuel filter new fuel pump last year pressure is good kind of like fuel cuts off for a second. Then comes back on. Mines a 2004 AWD. Cheers. Need to head to Kelowna in two weeks I’m hoping to get this high speed studder shudder sorted out before then.
Wishing you safety on the Coq; and yes, let us get this issue sorted out so you can enjoy the climb and the Bear shed (loaded, I still tear through the shed at good speed heh). Is this stalling issue something that happens while you are on the throttle OR can you simulate it when just coasting (no throttle) around that speed range? What if you put the tranny into "D" (no overdrive) does the stalling happen? Trying to isolate if you have a transmission issue. Long ago, I had a power cut out around 55-60kph and it was caused by my alternator's resistance (it was going bad) and the grounding cable + bolt which I cleaned out. Food for thought. Basically, I am asking if electric remains on during the stall and to see if it is tranny related?
That is an excellent video. Just to let you know, that vaccuum line that you recommend checking, if it is cracked or leaking, it will go to defrost by default.
Indeed it does!! I have footage pointing out the typical places the vacuum line breaks and the blower fan location (the plug can be faulty as well) to help out folks - just haven't had the time to edit and post the video 😭
Yes; at the start of the video (00:16) I list out the symptoms I had and attempt to show in the video the audible stuttering of the engine. After the ignition coil change, all symptoms were gone.
@@AbrahamChan88 thank you abraham I have the astro van to but resonly I have hesitation on the motor spetialy when it rains everything else is good my only solution is left to change the coil thanks for your respond
The air intake is from Volant and it allows for more air intake volume compared to the stock "cow bell" square air intake. Where I live, in general, the trade-off of getting more air volume vs less air volume but "cold" is worth it.
@@AbrahamChan88 getting on it tomorrow . I needed some pre replacement mojo lol . Mines a 96 so I don't have the carb looking thing on top of the intake , mine might be a little easier to get to . I also put a 3 inch body lift on it . It makes the engine so much easier to work on .
When you note no start, do you hear the starter motor cranking but no ignition? If yes, double check the distributor spark plug wire for power (arc) and if you don't see it then it is a pretty good bet that the ignition coil is no good whereby you can test if 12V is present on the ICM.
@@AbrahamChan88 ya ill do it tomorrow. battery to low to get a good crank. charging it now. already changed the coil out tho. spark plugs next if that don't do it. if not its got something else wrong.
@@clamo6362 out of curiosity, did you replace the rotor and distributor cap with the spark plug (and wire) change? Is the rotor brass or "aluminum with nickel"? I run my timing quite advanced and it is hard on the rotor and cap --- when it gets worn down, starting is harder. I have a video on my channel showing old/worn vs new parts and while the worn parts does not look bad, the effects on the performance (and starting) is very noticeably bad.
@@AbrahamChan88 ya rotor and cap are new but still need the plugs changed. van was running fine up till the cold blast came thru last week. as far as what its made out of I don't know..was replaced last year.
At the start of the video (15 seconds in) I list and explain the reasons why I changed it; Yes, it is possible that it does cut out after a little while but I had that also due to electric issues (the alternator) and in the comments below you can read up on another owner's "run for a few miles but then dies" journey as well.
So I have this problem with my 2003 Astro van .. I bought it a year ago and now I'm into the work on it . It idles a little high as it show on the oil pressure gadge. When Cold . It's idle is just a little over half way. I can't remember the number exactly.. any way I have done lots of things to this van and I still have this issue below . It seems once its warm or maybe not even .. once the idle slows down.. and gets to where it's needed wich Is about the first 1/4 mark on the oil pressure gadge she will run good .. but every day 2 or 3 times a day when I get to a stop light or a stop sign she wants to stall out . What I have done . Replaced Throttle position sensor, idle air sensor, evap purge sensor, Mas airflow sensor, spark plugs wires cap, pvc valve, coolent sensor, thermostat , rad cap, Gas cap, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, I have jiggled wires and look all over the top of this thing . I currently have 2 more I bought. Map sensor and intake air temperature sensor to install. I'm watching your video and wondering. DID YOUR VAN STALL AT ALL like I suggested above like mine does .? What were the signs that made you change it ? 🤔
Hi @aaametalsnipers4613 so sorry for the delayed response as I am only seeing this comment now. Are you able to tach the engine to get numbers so we can define what high is? For reference, my engine (and a few other GM 4.3L V6s I have worked on) can idle close to 1K RPM in 0C and below temps but within moments ~15 seconds it starts to dip down. When I see about 18C on the coolant temperature sensor the RPM is around 750RPM and it continues downwards to about 650RPM for my engine once around 40-50C coolant temperature. On that note, have you checked if the thermostat is stuck open (though more rare than stuck closed which is worse but it can happen and did to me) and thus resulted in rich fuel air mixture that would sometimes stall the vehicle when I gave it more gas to get more power >.< Assuming the thermostat is good, can you confirm if you have any electrical issues? I had experienced stall outs from my alternator being bad and providing too much resistance (that much!) that coming to stop, the engine would cut out. I have a video for the alternator change on my channel if you need it but you seem very capable =) With the ignition coil change, it removed the hesitations in power delivery; but I did not experience stall outs. BTW do these stall outs at a stop sign happen more frequently during humid (wet) days? If yes, that is a possible symptom of a fault ignition coil.
@@AbrahamChan88 I have a reader on it and it says MAF code comes up. The MAF is bran new so it's obvious it's a problem with the voltage that's supplied to it . A problem in line wirh the MAF sensor
@@BIOMEKANIKALDETAILINGSUPPLIES some times new MAF can be bad 🤣 those little components by the screen can be damaged. Be mindful of the IAT (intake air sensor) as that can change voltage readings.
Sorry to correct you, but you removed it the hard way. The coil only has 2 nuts and bolt studs that need to be removed. From inside the van,the far nut is also used for the throttle bracket. You don't need to remove that entire bracket. Just remove the nut and use your hand and pull that shit up⚠️ Its ok if it bends a little. It doesn't affect anything with the throttle. I did it yesterday and i pulled it up and over the bolt to get it back on. No big deal. I was surprised and thought i needed to remove that entire bracket, but i didn't.
This is the best filmed, best step by step video I found for my 2001 Astro. All the other videos I've seen don't include removing the throttle bracket, which is what I have to do. Thanks!
Cheers mate! Everyone has a different prospective in life and it influences how we share information =) I am always glad to know my little videos might lend a helping hand to someone else. Thank you for commenting!
Huge thanks for this video! You’re the only one I could find who mentions how how to remove the throttle bracket. I just got the old one out. Now I gotta drill out the rivets. I’m bummed to find out they didn’t include replacement screws with my new coil though.
You welcome! I am glad I finally posted it as it was recorded a few years ago!
When I picked up the new ignition coil and noted no bracket, I was already preparing myself to see rivets on the existing bracket. I hope you can easily drill out the rivets like how I showed in the video!
Very interesting and informative video. I'm fixing everything I can on a 98 Astro to make it a camping vehicle suitable to drive on 1000 mile round trips. At almost 300,000 miles now, 1 owner, i have found it extremely reliable. Most issues were from replacement parts not being even 10% as reliable as the OEM parts. I have 2 new spare coils and if I ever have starting or performance problems, I now know that the throttle cable bracket has to be removed.
I bought a new set of plug wires and haven't been able to figure out how to change them. Also have one of the three exhaust bolts broken at the triangular flange under the passenger door area. Looks like a big job to drill out a 3/8 or 7/16 shank
I watched your video again. Thanks for your response. Nice job on the video! I see I have a job ahead of me but I am thinking that is going to solve my problem.
Sorry for the delayed response; as you dig into the job, if you have questions post away and I hope I can help. That said, I tried my best to cover potential issues in the video.
Thanks for this video. It made it really easy to replace the coil.
Actually he made it hard to remove the coil. You don't need to remove the throttle cable bracket.
Thanks for the video man it was of great help. Love that your daughter conducted her own tutorial of leaf on log operation. LOL. Shes following in your utube footsteps!!
Would this fix a misfire of the 5th cylinder??
What if I just grind off the coil at tge bottom.... then weld it back would tht thro off any alignment just curious
Cool video what year is your van I’m in cloverdale tackle the coq every few months. I have an issue at around 70-80 KPH. Stutter cut out like engine shuts off for a millisecond stop into the gas pedal and it smooths right out. No codes either. Dang changed cap rotor plugs tps iac. Fuel filter new fuel pump last year pressure is good kind of like fuel cuts off for a second. Then comes back on. Mines a 2004 AWD. Cheers. Need to head to Kelowna in two weeks I’m hoping to get this high speed studder shudder sorted out before then.
Wishing you safety on the Coq; and yes, let us get this issue sorted out so you can enjoy the climb and the Bear shed (loaded, I still tear through the shed at good speed heh). Is this stalling issue something that happens while you are on the throttle OR can you simulate it when just coasting (no throttle) around that speed range? What if you put the tranny into "D" (no overdrive) does the stalling happen? Trying to isolate if you have a transmission issue. Long ago, I had a power cut out around 55-60kph and it was caused by my alternator's resistance (it was going bad) and the grounding cable + bolt which I cleaned out. Food for thought. Basically, I am asking if electric remains on during the stall and to see if it is tranny related?
That is an excellent video. Just to let you know, that vaccuum line that you recommend checking, if it is cracked or leaking, it will go to defrost by default.
Indeed it does!! I have footage pointing out the typical places the vacuum line breaks and the blower fan location (the plug can be faulty as well) to help out folks - just haven't had the time to edit and post the video 😭
Yes good job would like to ask you. you had any problems before you change it and what was it any miss fire when is rainy day ?
Yes; at the start of the video (00:16) I list out the symptoms I had and attempt to show in the video the audible stuttering of the engine. After the ignition coil change, all symptoms were gone.
@@AbrahamChan88 thank you abraham I have the astro van to but resonly I have hesitation on the motor spetialy when it rains everything else is good my only solution is left to change the coil thanks for your respond
After replacing my fuel pump and distributor I lost spark, Thanks for the video on how to do this same repair ....
Try replacing the ignition control module it next to the coil on that same bracket
What has been the result after a while of use?
what fair flow thing was that? did it improve power in your van?
The air intake is from Volant and it allows for more air intake volume compared to the stock "cow bell" square air intake. Where I live, in general, the trade-off of getting more air volume vs less air volume but "cold" is worth it.
Thanks , the video helped me a lot !
You welcome! I hope the replacement was smooth and trouble free!!
@@AbrahamChan88 getting on it tomorrow . I needed some pre replacement mojo lol . Mines a 96 so I don't have the carb looking thing on top of the intake , mine might be a little easier to get to . I also put a 3 inch body lift on it . It makes the engine so much easier to work on .
What was the signs that you needed to change your coil ? Was your van misfiring or gas consumption ? Just curious
Go on UA-cam and type, Symptoms of bad ignition coil on, (your year) Astro Safari van.
got a 03 astro van here....no start cause of the super cold.....now I got to replace this......think its original to.
When you note no start, do you hear the starter motor cranking but no ignition? If yes, double check the distributor spark plug wire for power (arc) and if you don't see it then it is a pretty good bet that the ignition coil is no good whereby you can test if 12V is present on the ICM.
@@AbrahamChan88 ya ill do it tomorrow. battery to low to get a good crank. charging it now. already changed the coil out tho. spark plugs next if that don't do it. if not its got something else wrong.
@@clamo6362 out of curiosity, did you replace the rotor and distributor cap with the spark plug (and wire) change? Is the rotor brass or "aluminum with nickel"? I run my timing quite advanced and it is hard on the rotor and cap --- when it gets worn down, starting is harder. I have a video on my channel showing old/worn vs new parts and while the worn parts does not look bad, the effects on the performance (and starting) is very noticeably bad.
@@AbrahamChan88 ya rotor and cap are new but still need the plugs changed. van was running fine up till the cold blast came thru last week. as far as what its made out of I don't know..was replaced last year.
@@AbrahamChan88 replaced plugs....still no start. going in shop next. everybody says the plugs are a pain.....i didn't have to many issues. took 3 hrs
I am curious why you had to replace your coil. I am thinking my problem might be the coil - my 02 Astro will run for a few miles but then dies.
At the start of the video (15 seconds in) I list and explain the reasons why I changed it; Yes, it is possible that it does cut out after a little while but I had that also due to electric issues (the alternator) and in the comments below you can read up on another owner's "run for a few miles but then dies" journey as well.
So I have this problem with my 2003 Astro van .. I bought it a year ago and now I'm into the work on it .
It idles a little high as it show on the oil pressure gadge. When Cold .
It's idle is just a little over half way. I can't remember the number exactly.. any way I have done lots of things to this van and I still have this issue below .
It seems once its warm or maybe not even .. once the idle slows down.. and gets to where it's needed wich Is about the first 1/4 mark on the oil pressure gadge she will run good .. but every day 2 or 3 times a day when I get to a stop light or a stop sign she wants to stall out . What I have done . Replaced
Throttle position sensor, idle air sensor, evap purge sensor, Mas airflow sensor, spark plugs wires cap, pvc valve, coolent sensor, thermostat , rad cap, Gas cap, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, I have jiggled wires and look all over the top of this thing .
I currently have 2 more I bought. Map sensor and intake air temperature sensor to install.
I'm watching your video and wondering. DID YOUR VAN STALL AT ALL like I suggested above like mine does .? What were the signs that made you change it ? 🤔
Hi @aaametalsnipers4613 so sorry for the delayed response as I am only seeing this comment now. Are you able to tach the engine to get numbers so we can define what high is? For reference, my engine (and a few other GM 4.3L V6s I have worked on) can idle close to 1K RPM in 0C and below temps but within moments ~15 seconds it starts to dip down. When I see about 18C on the coolant temperature sensor the RPM is around 750RPM and it continues downwards to about 650RPM for my engine once around 40-50C coolant temperature.
On that note, have you checked if the thermostat is stuck open (though more rare than stuck closed which is worse but it can happen and did to me) and thus resulted in rich fuel air mixture that would sometimes stall the vehicle when I gave it more gas to get more power >.<
Assuming the thermostat is good, can you confirm if you have any electrical issues? I had experienced stall outs from my alternator being bad and providing too much resistance (that much!) that coming to stop, the engine would cut out. I have a video for the alternator change on my channel if you need it but you seem very capable =)
With the ignition coil change, it removed the hesitations in power delivery; but I did not experience stall outs.
BTW do these stall outs at a stop sign happen more frequently during humid (wet) days? If yes, that is a possible symptom of a fault ignition coil.
@@AbrahamChan88 I have a reader on it and it says MAF code comes up. The MAF is bran new so it's obvious it's a problem with the voltage that's supplied to it .
A problem in line wirh the MAF sensor
@@BIOMEKANIKALDETAILINGSUPPLIES some times new MAF can be bad 🤣 those little components by the screen can be damaged. Be mindful of the IAT (intake air sensor) as that can change voltage readings.
@@AbrahamChan88 already changed that with the MAF . It definitely changed things. Didn't change what I needed but it changed the game
@@AbrahamChan88 I the MAP SENSOR and my ignition coil and module are next one hit list .
Sorry to correct you, but you removed it the hard way. The coil only has 2 nuts and bolt studs that need to be removed. From inside the van,the far nut is also used for the throttle bracket.
You don't need to remove that entire bracket. Just remove the nut and use your hand and pull that shit up⚠️
Its ok if it bends a little. It doesn't affect anything with the throttle. I did it yesterday and i pulled it up and over the bolt to get it back on. No big deal.
I was surprised and thought i needed to remove that entire bracket, but i didn't.
Took me like 15 min to replace my coil from my 2000 astro
Worst placement of an engine component ever. Big thumbs down to Chevy on that decision 👎 love my Astro though
Heh well, given the short hood hence the doghouse, it is what it is without making the vehicle hyper long 😆
Chevy put 10 lbs of shit in a 5lbs bad there is no room . 4 inches on the side and 6 inches on the top and you have room to work and see
thank you
You welcome! If you have any questions, ask!