Had replaced steering clutches/brakes/release bearing, seals, etc in 450B I owned. Replaced with metallic style clutches instead the the original fiber type. Those are a little less responsive, but never had any problems with sticking afterwards. Having a crane truck is definitely a plus for these type jobs. Removed the entire seat/tank/battery assembly as one piece with crane truck. Had to get a used clutch arm shaft from a place out in Western US. SteeringClutch I believe was the name. Getting the new brakes/clutch adjusted to suit took a few times after running machine. As others have mentioned, keep the machine tarped or under a shed.
I agree with all of that! I ended up fixing this clutch correctly later. I crane truck would of been sweet. The boxes and tank were tricky with a regular engine hoist. The rest of the job went really smooth.
I have a 450B as well, so I enjoyed the video, especially since there doesn't seem to be too many good videos out there on the older 450s. There should be two pipe plugs on the bottom side of each clutch/brake housing. One of my brakes was a little oily and the seal may be leaking a little from the final drive side, but I loosened the brake band, poured mineral spirits over it, and then sprayed brake clean on it with the plugs removed. It did seem to help some, but the clutch will be more difficult to clean I think and more sensitive to any residual oil. Probably worth a shot though considering the effort it takes to replace one, and the cost. Looking forward to the next video on the HLR adjustment. I struggled with mine and have determined the pump has got a lot of wear in it as I can only get about 145 psi when the oil is warmed to temperature. I'm going to try running it with the pressure set at about 140 psi so that there will still be some bypass oil going to the filter and oil cooler. One other thing I found on the main clutch is that I had to back out the HLR clutch valve stop nut a little over 6 turns from the point where the clutch pedal just started to move to see a pressure rise when turning it back in (book says 5 turns). So if you don't see a pressure rise, back the nut out some until you see the pressure drop, then you can turn it in to try and hit that point where the pressure falls 5-10 psi.
Good tips. I actually planning on putting the clutch housing plug in and filling the housing with a degreaser then operating it a little while. This will hopefully get most of the oil between the clutch plates out, etc. On the HLR side there is something going on with my engine clutch. Even with the engine clutch all the way maxed out I cannot obtain the pedal free play that JD calls for. I am going to try to install a shim in it to get more travel, then re-adjust the HLR to operate correctly
Sounds like a good idea on degreasing the clutch. You could probably even use a water/detergent based degreaser as long as you drained it, then operated the dozer for a half hour or so immediately after with the plugs and and the cover plate off to evaporate any water out. As for the HLR clutch, as I remember you back the screw out to increase free travel, so if you keep backing it out, I guess at some point it would back away from the seat. The spring should hold the screw against the seat, so if that's not working for some reason, you may have a problem with a broken spring, throw out bearing, linkage, or clutch itself. You might try backing out the clutch valve stop nut - maybe someone had that adjusted too far in. Just be careful not to back it all the way off the threaded rod, or you will definitely be pulling the engine to fix it. Good luck. @@spankranchgarage
We first used the JD 450 crawler loader when they first came to uk, The operators didn’t like the very early steering set up up the JD, We changed to the Case 350 crawler loader then used the case 450 & case 450A crawler loader 🇬🇧🇮🇪.
Hi, new subscriber from AUS, mate where have you been, just watched this vlog as a random and love you and the content, please never apologise for lack of visuals, your commentary more than supplements it plus visual were still better than a lot of channels, I love hearing your thoughts, it’s what we all do anyway. Looks like I have a huge backlog of vlogs to get through to catch up so pleased to be a new member on your team, great stuff
Excellent video, I have a 450c crawler like that only like new condition been in the family since new,is an amazing machine,use it for roads, logging on my property ect, interested in the location you found that trani screen,was not aware of it or its access point...Thanks again...
Thanks for watching. The trans screen is under your right heel when sitting on the machine. You can drop the belly pan and see it on the side of the transmission. There will be a sensor with a wire and 3 bolts.
@@spankranchgarage Thanks, I was wondering if I would have to drop my belly pan,but it will be worth it as I have a new temp sensor to put in it...Even though I keep the oil very clean and stored in a run in shed I would like to check it out as I didn't know it was there, never came across it in my manual...
Just from my experiance save you self a lot of time and money and keep it under a tarp when not in use. Even with all the RTV the water just seems to find its way in everything when they sit outside. Gota love old equipment lol
Damn right there. The elements eat these machines up. I am hoping to build a lean-to off the side of my shipping container to keep the dozer dry.... But I need the dozer to level the pad first. Always something.
I've seen some guys fill the brake/clutch housing with kerosene. I think Randy's Relics did that on his Cat D2 when the clutch was completely seized, to try loosen it up again. I'm not an expert on heavy equipment, but it seems like it might be worth a shot?
I am considering this. I need to know for sure if the oil came from an external source or do I have a transmission leak into the clutch housing too. New video coming soon about this
Yep I would do the same. plug and fill that right side brake clutch with a solvent. non petrol based cleaner as they also have oil in them. Yep brake cleaner will do the trick. If you fill it to the top and cap it of you need oxygen to have a fire or explosion if you get a spark in there. No to little air and the mix is to rich and you are safe. probably way to late this comment to help but what the heck. See what you did in your next video. Cheers Stew.
Thank you , im about to dive into my project !! might have more questions .. also heard u say u in 88 degrees in 100 humidity are you in florida like me lol @@spankranchgarage
The polite word is BIOFILM. LOVE THE VIDEO!
The video is fine. Glad you made another for me to watch. Can’t wait to see more. Thanks man!
13.43, don't worry about it, we wouldn't be watching if it wasn't good content.
Actually, it helped me a lot, i own a 1010c with the same symptoms,i will check the clutchs when i have the time.Nicely done.
Happy to hear it. Good luck!
Had replaced steering clutches/brakes/release bearing, seals, etc in 450B I owned. Replaced with metallic style clutches instead the the original fiber type. Those are a little less responsive, but never had any problems with sticking afterwards. Having a crane truck is definitely a plus for these type jobs. Removed the entire seat/tank/battery assembly as one piece with crane truck. Had to get a used clutch arm shaft from a place out in Western US. SteeringClutch I believe was the name. Getting the new brakes/clutch adjusted to suit took a few times after running machine. As others have mentioned, keep the machine tarped or under a shed.
I agree with all of that! I ended up fixing this clutch correctly later. I crane truck would of been sweet. The boxes and tank were tricky with a regular engine hoist. The rest of the job went really smooth.
Love your content! Keep it up! Great friggin info as well!
Spank Ranch Garage does it all. Great video! Can’t wait to see it in action
Me too!
Kroil is a beautiful thing.
I have a 450B as well, so I enjoyed the video, especially since there doesn't seem to be too many good videos out there on the older 450s. There should be two pipe plugs on the bottom side of each clutch/brake housing. One of my brakes was a little oily and the seal may be leaking a little from the final drive side, but I loosened the brake band, poured mineral spirits over it, and then sprayed brake clean on it with the plugs removed. It did seem to help some, but the clutch will be more difficult to clean I think and more sensitive to any residual oil. Probably worth a shot though considering the effort it takes to replace one, and the cost. Looking forward to the next video on the HLR adjustment. I struggled with mine and have determined the pump has got a lot of wear in it as I can only get about 145 psi when the oil is warmed to temperature. I'm going to try running it with the pressure set at about 140 psi so that there will still be some bypass oil going to the filter and oil cooler. One other thing I found on the main clutch is that I had to back out the HLR clutch valve stop nut a little over 6 turns from the point where the clutch pedal just started to move to see a pressure rise when turning it back in (book says 5 turns). So if you don't see a pressure rise, back the nut out some until you see the pressure drop, then you can turn it in to try and hit that point where the pressure falls 5-10 psi.
Good tips. I actually planning on putting the clutch housing plug in and filling the housing with a degreaser then operating it a little while. This will hopefully get most of the oil between the clutch plates out, etc. On the HLR side there is something going on with my engine clutch. Even with the engine clutch all the way maxed out I cannot obtain the pedal free play that JD calls for. I am going to try to install a shim in it to get more travel, then re-adjust the HLR to operate correctly
Sounds like a good idea on degreasing the clutch. You could probably even use a water/detergent based degreaser as long as you drained it, then operated the dozer for a half hour or so immediately after with the plugs and and the cover plate off to evaporate any water out. As for the HLR clutch, as I remember you back the screw out to increase free travel, so if you keep backing it out, I guess at some point it would back away from the seat. The spring should hold the screw against the seat, so if that's not working for some reason, you may have a problem with a broken spring, throw out bearing, linkage, or clutch itself. You might try backing out the clutch valve stop nut - maybe someone had that adjusted too far in. Just be careful not to back it all the way off the threaded rod, or you will definitely be pulling the engine to fix it. Good luck. @@spankranchgarage
We first used the JD 450 crawler loader when they first came to uk, The operators didn’t like the very early steering set up up the JD, We changed to the Case 350 crawler loader then used the case 450 & case 450A crawler loader 🇬🇧🇮🇪.
Best mechanic on UA-cam
Hi, new subscriber from AUS, mate where have you been, just watched this vlog as a random and love you and the content, please never apologise for lack of visuals, your commentary more than supplements it plus visual were still better than a lot of channels, I love hearing your thoughts, it’s what we all do anyway. Looks like I have a huge backlog of vlogs to get through to catch up so pleased to be a new member on your team, great stuff
Bought 450e for 1500 keep making vids you're about to help me 💪🏽💪🏽😎
Put some 2x8s down in your shop and track the dozer on them. You wont have to worry about your concrete
I love the go pro oil it made feel as I was there with you
Don't worry, I've bathed in transmission fluid a couple of times. Lol. All fun.
great job bob
Excellent video, I have a 450c crawler like that only like new condition been in the family since new,is an amazing machine,use it for roads, logging on my property ect, interested in the location you found that trani screen,was not aware of it or its access point...Thanks again...
Thanks for watching. The trans screen is under your right heel when sitting on the machine. You can drop the belly pan and see it on the side of the transmission. There will be a sensor with a wire and 3 bolts.
@@spankranchgarage Thanks, I was wondering if I would have to drop my belly pan,but it will be worth it as I have a new temp sensor to put in it...Even though I keep the oil very clean and stored in a run in shed I would like to check it out as I didn't know it was there, never came across it in my manual...
You are a genius and I admire you
This looks miserable. I would have buried it by now 😂 good fun to watch though!
Just from my experiance save you self a lot of time and money and keep it under a tarp when not in use. Even with all the RTV the water just seems to find its way in everything when they sit outside. Gota love old equipment lol
Damn right there. The elements eat these machines up. I am hoping to build a lean-to off the side of my shipping container to keep the dozer dry.... But I need the dozer to level the pad first. Always something.
I've seen some guys fill the brake/clutch housing with kerosene. I think Randy's Relics did that on his Cat D2 when the clutch was completely seized, to try loosen it up again. I'm not an expert on heavy equipment, but it seems like it might be worth a shot?
I am considering this. I need to know for sure if the oil came from an external source or do I have a transmission leak into the clutch housing too. New video coming soon about this
Very informative! Great job!
Yep I would do the same. plug and fill that right side brake clutch with a solvent. non petrol based cleaner as they also have oil in them. Yep brake cleaner will do the trick. If you fill it to the top and cap it of you need oxygen to have a fire or explosion if you get a spark in there. No to little air and the mix is to rich and you are safe. probably way to late this comment to help but what the heck. See what you did in your next video. Cheers Stew.
You are reading my mind here! Got a video coming out later this week doing just that.
You could use propane to displace the air...
Love this channel. !
My man, where you get your manuals, I need a link 🙏. I bought one myself and I’m trying to prepare for when I need to work on it.
I bought them on eBay. I couldnt find any free PDFs online.
TANK. YUO. FOR. 2. PART.
Nice work!
I thought B’s j had rear counter weights on the sprockets
Only on the loader versions. They had shorter track frames and no sprocket guards so they could bolt the sprocket weights on
What program are you using to get all the maintenance information? I have a 71, 450 B I’m about to start diving into.
I downloaded the JD service manual as a PDF. There pretty available I think it cost me 50 bucks but well worth it
Thank you , im about to dive into my project !! might have more questions .. also heard u say u in 88 degrees in 100 humidity are you in florida like me lol @@spankranchgarage
@@chrisbrigham6800 Nope only Pennsylvania here. I probably couldnt survive florida heat
How much does it cost to change the ClutchJohn Deere 450 track loader
including part in labor thany you
I dont know, sorry. Each mechanic will charge different. Try to find a mechanic that has done them before. Experience goes a long way with this job.
@@spankranchgarage ok thank you
🎉
Safer to use diesel fuel not gasoline to clean up drive clutch.
Safer yes but I was worried the diesel would leave too much. oily residue.
Warned you about the slime
Its still in my hair
WOW. THE. AIR. CLEAN. IS. TERRIBLE
Use kerosene that's what the old-timers used to do
JONH DERE. IS. G. OOD. PICE I. EQUIMENT. 450. TO. THE. END.......NICE. VIDEO. OK'''''''''''''''..............'''''''''''''''';;;;;;;;;;;;;;