Great video. I like to use masking tape around the perimeter of the canopy and then fill in the center with liquid masking fluid. This method saves a lot of time and reduces the tedium of cutting numerous bits of tape and fiddling to place them. It works especially well on larger and curved canopy sections.
Thanks, Aaron! You make it look so easy. This is definitely the thing I dislike the most about building scale models. My eyesight isn't anywhere close to what it was when I was younger. Thanks for sharing! Have a great weekend.
The other option is liquid mask products. I use capillary action with liquid mask, putting more than needed away from the edge then pushing it towards the edge with a cocktail stick. I sometimes use this in addition to tape masks. When the tape might not have gone down well along every edge, I add a bit of liquid mask onto of that position, filling in the small gap.
Painting canopy is one of the hardest things to do, so this is very helpful. Sometimes, I'd just paint canopy by hand brush...so won't perfectly. Also, there are only a few aircraft kits that come with precut making tapes for canopy.
That was quick. But very helpful. Always hated masking. I will have to re-evaluate my opinion of after market masking kits. As you demonstrated they much more efficient. Ive also never used foil, which looked like it conforms better than tape. Ive never done the triangle trick, seen it once before though. I guess i need one of those template tools and some foil. Aaron do you ever use masking fluid? And do you ever mask the inside of a canopy? Recently saw a build where the builder masked both inside and outside of the canopy. Iver never done that myself.
I've used pre-cut masks and they work well for me. I was especially happy to have them for use on a 1/72 Brewster Buffalo and it's many, tiny panes of simulated glass.
Morning Aaron, that was another great tutorial on masking aircraft canopies, I would have thought a cotton swab of some sort would be better than the cocktail stick, Tamiya do 2 or 3 different types, but that is just me, will you be doing a tutorial on vehicle window masking? Best regards from Australia, Les
I'll ask you out of the box thinkers. Lets say I have a ceramic model (it's for christmas) and there is a small chip in it on a really critical area. Is there a method of repair that could help build up that area in a semi-structural way? A putty or some type of adhesive/ epoxy? I know this isn't your area but sometimes thinkers from a different field give a new perspective.
As a generality epoxy sticks offer a firm medium for filling large and deep damage and holds its shape if sculpting will be done to make it conform to a specific shape. If the damage is shallower and horizontal you may want to use a two part epoxy from a tube as it is more of a liquid and flows across the surface if that is a quality that is needed. Make sure to use the gray colored epoxies and NOT the clear (the clear is used as an adhesive and not for sculpting or sanding). Both gray tube and stick epoxies come in fast and slow curing times depending on how much time you need to work with it. Both have excellent bonding qualities especially to rough porous ceramic surfaces. Both have good structural qualities as they cure hard and tough. Both can be sanded, primed and painted. I have used epoxies from JB Weld, Loctite and Harbor Freight all with excellent results. Sorry for being a bit long winded. I hope this helps.
@@69bird3 So let me just clarify it as much as I can. My grandmother had a ceramic christmas tree. The ones that got popular again recent. The very tip of the tree chipped. Not all the way round just a piece of one side. It holds in the star. It still could hold in the star but the integrity is obviously not great. I thought about using some type of putty or epoxy to psuedo sculpt some snow cover while trying to provide a better (stem/ hole) for the star to have a mounting fixture. would those sticks (im familiar with them) adhere to a glazed ceramic. Obviously the tree is a shiny green. The porous crack is one thing but the surrounding area is important too. Also, thank you for the long winded answer, that's what I'm here for lol
You're welcome. Yes, the stick epoxy will adhere to the glazed ceramic. Just make sure you clean the surface with some alcohol first. You can drill, sand, paint the epoxy surface and hang the star with confidence that it will be secure.
@roberttaylor9259 Maybe you can fill it with some Gap filling Ca glue and then sprinkle some baking soda over it, and after a few minutes grind it with some fine sandpaper, choose an appropriate grit. Touch up with some custom blended Paint
For me, building lots of WW2 aircraft in 1/72, this is the worst part of the hobby. By far. But your first technique looks to have merit and I will give it a try on my next model.
Great video. I like to use masking tape around the perimeter of the canopy and then fill in the center with liquid masking fluid. This method saves a lot of time and reduces the tedium of cutting numerous bits of tape and fiddling to place them. It works especially well on larger and curved canopy sections.
That template tool definitely looks useful. Thank you for this tutorial!
Thanks, Aaron! You make it look so easy. This is definitely the thing I dislike the most about building scale models. My eyesight isn't anywhere close to what it was when I was younger. Thanks for sharing! Have a great weekend.
The other option is liquid mask products. I use capillary action with liquid mask, putting more than needed away from the edge then pushing it towards the edge with a cocktail stick. I sometimes use this in addition to tape masks. When the tape might not have gone down well along every edge, I add a bit of liquid mask onto of that position, filling in the small gap.
I used your foil technique with masking tape for years. I use just regular painters tape to do it. We didn't have special tape back when I was a kid.
Thanks Arron ! This is the video I was waiting for!! Merry Christmas brother and up the Irons!
Painting canopy is one of the hardest things to do, so this is very helpful. Sometimes, I'd just paint canopy by hand brush...so won't perfectly. Also, there are only a few aircraft kits that come with precut making tapes for canopy.
Great video Aaron, very helpful seeing how this is done.
Where did you get the😮 cutting template?
Yes, please, tell us Aaron!
I think it's BD0012 from Border Tools
^ Border Model
@ I checked out and they did have one with the triangle. thanks.
That was quick. But very helpful. Always hated masking. I will have to re-evaluate my opinion of after market masking kits. As you demonstrated they much more efficient. Ive also never used foil, which looked like it conforms better than tape. Ive never done the triangle trick, seen it once before though. I guess i need one of those template tools and some foil.
Aaron do you ever use masking fluid? And do you ever mask the inside of a canopy? Recently saw a build where the builder masked both inside and outside of the canopy. Iver never done that myself.
I've used pre-cut masks and they work well for me. I was especially happy to have them for use on a 1/72 Brewster Buffalo and it's many, tiny panes of simulated glass.
Morning Aaron, that was another great tutorial on masking aircraft canopies, I would have thought a cotton swab of some sort would be better than the cocktail stick, Tamiya do 2 or 3 different types, but that is just me, will you be doing a tutorial on vehicle window masking? Best regards from Australia, Les
Great tips. This is not my favorite part of building… What foli were you using?
Whats the brand of the cutting template?
I'll ask you out of the box thinkers. Lets say I have a ceramic model (it's for christmas) and there is a small chip in it on a really critical area. Is there a method of repair that could help build up that area in a semi-structural way? A putty or some type of adhesive/ epoxy? I know this isn't your area but sometimes thinkers from a different field give a new perspective.
As a generality epoxy sticks offer a firm medium for filling large and deep damage and holds its shape if sculpting will be done to make it conform to a specific shape. If the damage is shallower and horizontal you may want to use a two part epoxy from a tube as it is more of a liquid and flows across the surface if that is a quality that is needed. Make sure to use the gray colored epoxies and NOT the clear (the clear is used as an adhesive and not for sculpting or sanding). Both gray tube and stick epoxies come in fast and slow curing times depending on how much time you need to work with it. Both have excellent bonding qualities especially to rough porous ceramic surfaces. Both have good structural qualities as they cure hard and tough. Both can be sanded, primed and painted. I have used epoxies from JB Weld, Loctite and Harbor Freight all with excellent results. Sorry for being a bit long winded. I hope this helps.
@@69bird3 So let me just clarify it as much as I can. My grandmother had a ceramic christmas tree. The ones that got popular again recent. The very tip of the tree chipped. Not all the way round just a piece of one side. It holds in the star. It still could hold in the star but the integrity is obviously not great. I thought about using some type of putty or epoxy to psuedo sculpt some snow cover while trying to provide a better (stem/ hole) for the star to have a mounting fixture. would those sticks (im familiar with them) adhere to a glazed ceramic. Obviously the tree is a shiny green. The porous crack is one thing but the surrounding area is important too. Also, thank you for the long winded answer, that's what I'm here for lol
You're welcome. Yes, the stick epoxy will adhere to the glazed ceramic. Just make sure you clean the surface with some alcohol first. You can drill, sand, paint the epoxy surface and hang the star with confidence that it will be secure.
@roberttaylor9259 Maybe you can fill it with some Gap filling Ca glue and then sprinkle some
baking soda over it, and after a few minutes grind it with some fine sandpaper, choose an appropriate grit.
Touch up with some custom blended
Paint
For me, building lots of WW2 aircraft in 1/72, this is the worst part of the hobby. By far. But your first technique looks to have merit and I will give it a try on my next model.
Thanks for watching, we hope this helps you with future models!
Para M anyone?😳
Jman