One note about the Storm Mix and Roto Grip RG: The Riser Pin is actually the center of the Puck/Top Weight, not the CG. So if you put the CG in the grip center the riser pin will act as a weight offset on the ball. You could then rotate the Pin/Top Weight around to produce static imbalance and thus create different ball dynamics on a small scale. If you want to have a fairly neutral balanced ball like a normal plastic ball with only a CG, then put the riser pin in the grip center instead of the CG and move the CG placement near where the ball track would be.
Typically, any work on a polyester ball would come down to cost of work vs. price of a new one. Plastic balls are pretty cheap and very brittle... so throwing a resurface charge (we charge 60$) at a plastic ball, might be overkill. Steps would be. 1. Patch the big holes. 2. File down the gap filler. 3. Start at 120 or 180 grit and get all the surface scratches off. 4. move up grits until the final desired grit. Do 4 sides of the ball, you can do 6 or 8 sides as well but I think it's over-doing it. Thanks for the comment ;)
If it had a core in it like a Black Widow Viz a Ball or a Radical Spy and you wanted to give it some shape on really toasty conditions, could you drill it with your favorite layout from your resin balls? Or does that not matter on these types of balls?
if the plastic ball has a core then I would recommend putting an actual layout on it. It will slightly change how it rolls, it'll be hard to see the difference, however the intent is to make the ball go straight, so I would opt for any layout that will make the ball flare less. Larger angles and longer pin to PAP distance. My 2 cents.
@@spectrebowling thank you so much. I actually went with 3 and 3/4 which may be the reason I’m not getting my desired motion as it may be burning up early. If a surface adjustment to 500 with Brunswick Crown Compound doesn’t work. I will redrill for a 5” pin to PAP. Thanks for your 2 cents!!
I was wondering if the spare ball had a small core like Hammer’s Axe and overseas Black Widow Spare (bullet core) would you recommend a short pin layout with a Pin to PAP of 3/4”?
I have a wine u dot urethane and it has the pancake weight block so the cg that has the u is where the core is and I want to get the most out of the ball motion . And the cg heavy spot is right beside the u so what should I put on it to lay it out .
One of my favorite urethane balls!!! The ones i really liked I simply put the CG 1/2" positive side and 1/2" positive finger at the time. It has such a small bearing on what you can get out of ball motion. At the time, I had also tried the plastic ball layout that Mo Pinel had come up with for the PBA plastic ball championship, however that needs a weight hole and in today's standards can't be done anymore... and to be honest, I didn't like the reaction. Hope this helps.
So for the pink ball the serial number would be middle of grip?
One note about the Storm Mix and Roto Grip RG: The Riser Pin is actually the center of the Puck/Top Weight, not the CG. So if you put the CG in the grip center the riser pin will act as a weight offset on the ball. You could then rotate the Pin/Top Weight around to produce static imbalance and thus create different ball dynamics on a small scale.
If you want to have a fairly neutral balanced ball like a normal plastic ball with only a CG, then put the riser pin in the grip center instead of the CG and move the CG placement near where the ball track would be.
Great info Mark!. Question, Is it recommended to resurface a plastic ball? If so what steps should i take on a ball spinner?
Typically, any work on a polyester ball would come down to cost of work vs. price of a new one. Plastic balls are pretty cheap and very brittle... so throwing a resurface charge (we charge 60$) at a plastic ball, might be overkill. Steps would be. 1. Patch the big holes. 2. File down the gap filler. 3. Start at 120 or 180 grit and get all the surface scratches off. 4. move up grits until the final desired grit. Do 4 sides of the ball, you can do 6 or 8 sides as well but I think it's over-doing it. Thanks for the comment ;)
If it had a core in it like a Black Widow Viz a Ball or a Radical Spy and you wanted to give it some shape on really toasty conditions, could you drill it with your favorite layout from your resin balls? Or does that not matter on these types of balls?
if the plastic ball has a core then I would recommend putting an actual layout on it. It will slightly change how it rolls, it'll be hard to see the difference, however the intent is to make the ball go straight, so I would opt for any layout that will make the ball flare less. Larger angles and longer pin to PAP distance. My 2 cents.
@@spectrebowling thank you so much. I actually went with 3 and 3/4 which may be the reason I’m not getting my desired motion as it may be burning up early.
If a surface adjustment to 500 with Brunswick Crown Compound doesn’t work. I will redrill for a 5” pin to PAP.
Thanks for your 2 cents!!
I was wondering if the spare ball had a small core like Hammer’s Axe and overseas Black Widow Spare (bullet core) would you recommend a short pin layout with a Pin to PAP of 3/4”?
probably not short pin, but longer pin, like 6" +, but either or... the cover will still make them both go pretty straight.
What about 2-hander layouts and serial numbers? Do they need to remain visible and readable?
You can simply put the CG below the grip center for two handed players. Measure around 1” above the CG and draw your grip center.
@@markbuffa5840 Thank you for the fast response!
What about plastic balls that have cores that are not pancake?
then typical layouts. probably something that will cut down on flare potential to keep the ball on-line
I have a wine u dot urethane and it has the pancake weight block so the cg that has the u is where the core is and I want to get the most out of the ball motion . And the cg heavy spot is right beside the u so what should I put on it to lay it out .
One of my favorite urethane balls!!! The ones i really liked I simply put the CG 1/2" positive side and 1/2" positive finger at the time. It has such a small bearing on what you can get out of ball motion. At the time, I had also tried the plastic ball layout that Mo Pinel had come up with for the PBA plastic ball championship, however that needs a weight hole and in today's standards can't be done anymore... and to be honest, I didn't like the reaction. Hope this helps.
@@spectrebowling What about for 2 handers, can the same logic be applied? And do you think the 2LS layout would work on the Fab Hammers?