Insulfrogs have the plastic in the V of the points whereas the electrofrog are metal Vs. If you use electrofrog points you will have to have switches to power the individual lines off it i.e. sidings or all the engines will move. Insulfrogs remove that complication but often cause power transfers for 0-4-0 locos. Peco electofrogs are smaller Vs and better than hornby ones which have larger plastic Vs and thus more problamatic. Hopes this helps.
I may have asked this question before, did you modify those R965 Controllers as Johns amazing trains did for improved runningamazing running? t I purchased a Hornby Select but it did not include the power cord which is 15 volts in and am having difficulty locating it here in Toronto
Yes and no You dont need to switch them but some of your locomotives might not work properly I.E they can be jumpy and such but that might not happen and your locos might work perfectly fine. On my layout the outer loop is dcc but i have the dc power track but all my locomotives work fine!
Hi there. I am not the video maker but I do have an urgent message to tell you. *DO NOT PUT YOUR DC LOCOMOTIVES ON A DCC LAYOUT.* DCC sets out a high amperage AC current which will rapidly overheat and burn out the motor inside of your locomotive, permanently damaging them. Hope this helps.
Good video but you are massively over thinking it. A and b, grey and black don't matter on dcc (nore on dc really just your trains run backwards). Just make sure that no single rail connects to both outputs at the same time, directly or indirectly.
Would be more easy won’t be able to dynamics the entire layout by putting decoders underneath your track that would be more easier or using the Hornby computer control with a laptop that’s pretty a lot more easier than the dynamics are the way you done it with your powersupply you could put your power supplies where are a map to a year how break the cycle them where if there was a short circuit you wouldn’t ring you all later or your train is the it’s a nice night but the way down your wiring system is rather confusing to people were in maybe easier be over rowing dynamics and controller is pretty good
Really helped to think about converting my layout to dcc. Doesn't sound easy but do-able. Thanks for your well defined video. Cheers
Thanks for the video mate. Really helpful for DCC first timers.
Insulfrogs have the plastic in the V of the points whereas the electrofrog are metal Vs. If you use electrofrog points you will have to have switches to power the individual lines off it i.e. sidings or all the engines will move. Insulfrogs remove that complication but often cause power transfers for 0-4-0 locos. Peco electofrogs are smaller Vs and better than hornby ones which have larger plastic Vs and thus more problamatic. Hopes this helps.
Great layout looking to do something similar on 6 by 4.
I may have asked this question before, did you modify those R965 Controllers as Johns amazing trains did for improved runningamazing running? t
I purchased a Hornby Select but it did not include the power cord which is 15 volts in and am having difficulty locating it here in Toronto
Not a bad idea. can you tell us what the names or product codes are of the connector wires and little clips are please?
Those dapol class 68 can run as tight as 1st radius so you should be able to operate them on the tightest loop. Fabulous video!
Hi, do I need to switch power tracks? and could you please tell me the equipment needed
Yes and no
You dont need to switch them but some of your locomotives might not work properly I.E they can be jumpy and such but that might not happen and your locos might work perfectly fine.
On my layout the outer loop is dcc but i have the dc power track but all my locomotives work fine!
Great Video!
hi I want to alter my layout to dcc, will I be able to use all my old locos? that are dc
Hi there. I am not the video maker but I do have an urgent message to tell you. *DO NOT PUT YOUR DC LOCOMOTIVES ON A DCC LAYOUT.* DCC sets out a high amperage AC current which will rapidly overheat and burn out the motor inside of your locomotive, permanently damaging them. Hope this helps.
Derp Inshmurtz Yep. That’s one easy way to use them
You would hav3e to put a decoder into your dc trained code it then you can use them
thanks teej, so all my locos, about 30, are now useless, for this modern set up.?
I'd recommend two tracks, one inner and one outter, one DC and one DCC :)
Good video but you are massively over thinking it. A and b, grey and black don't matter on dcc (nore on dc really just your trains run backwards). Just make sure that no single rail connects to both outputs at the same time, directly or indirectly.
👍👍👍
My one is 8 by 4
I’m Thor
I’m sorry but it doesn’t work in your phone
Would be more easy won’t be able to dynamics the entire layout by putting decoders underneath your track that would be more easier or using the Hornby computer control with a laptop that’s pretty a lot more easier than the dynamics are the way you done it with your powersupply you could put your power supplies where are a map to a year how break the cycle them where if there was a short circuit you wouldn’t ring you all later or your train is the it’s a nice night but the way down your wiring system is rather confusing to people were in maybe easier be over rowing dynamics and controller is pretty good
Mills Family WHAT?
Try full stops and commas