A quick explanation of when to use a rigging ring instead of a block or pulley, and when to use a pulley instead of a friction ring. Hope the information is useful :)
Very helpful to us new guys. Although many arborists online seemed to have run out of ideas for useful content after a few years, actually many things in this industry have been overlooked or neglected. This video is a great example of this.
Even though this video is 3 years old, it continues to be relevant and well done. Straightforward. Easy to understand. Have many rigging blocks but just adding some rigging rings. Looking forward to trying them.
There is a HUGE difference between a block and a pulley. A pulley has one spindle and sheave. A block has two spindles and two sheaves, one is for the running rope, the other is for the anchoring rope/sling. A pulley should absolutely NEVER be used for negative rigging, or where shock load is likely. Only a block should be used for that. A pulley should always be above the load, or in a hoisting system. A block can be used below the load at the terminal point.
Great presentation on rigging rings and pullys. One circumstance that I have encountered where rigging rings where failing me was in a sappy fir tree. The ring got gummed up and literally stopped the rope from running.
The rigging block has the advantage to be installed mid lined. The friction rings can't be installed anytime on your lowering system. It has to be installed in the beginning before you even start to rig. That's the down side of the rings but I still like them. Very light weight device that doesn't get in your way on your saddle. Blocks are bulky, it definitely have it role for sure. Excellent video buddy.
Nice solid explanation! the only other difference I could see is that the Pulley is midline attachable if for some reason where ever in a situation where it would be helpful
Great tip! I didn't realize rings added so much friction. I'm looking into improving my climbing & rigging game now that my 15-year-old son is able to be my down guy, so these videos are helpful. Any recommendation on video how to splice a rigging ring or double ring that is retrievable?
You should consider doing a video to see how hard it is to actually lift with a double ring over a block. Would love to see if the difference justify the difference in cost...
still have 200 lbs on the anchor rope, 100 lbs load, + 50 lbs on holding line +50 lbs of friction which is also acting on the anchor rope. Advantage is less tension required on holding line.
Yer bein on the ground. Like xring just less wraps to let it run. Seems smoother on negative chunks. Spose more wraps means binds faster then not so smooth. But just prefence i spose. Thanks
Can a single ring be used to rig down chunks on a spar? I think I read somewhere that you need to use double rings unless it is used for a redirect. I could definitely be wrong I’ve never used them myself.
the answer to this is controversial. You can read the comment thread here and get some idea. The concern with using one ring is having too small of a bend radius for the rope passing through it, which will decrease the potential strength of the rigging rope in that configuration by some amount that is dependent on how badly mismatched the size of the ring is to the size of the rope. Also, the extra friction of the ring compared to a block or pulley will marginally increase the wear and tear on the rigging line. All of this downside is a matter of degrees. with a large enough single ring, and a small rigging rope the bend radius issue becomes virtually insignificant. The same is true if the pieces being rigged are small compared to the working load limit of the rigging line. All of the hazards come from pushing the limits of the gear. Using a rope too near to its breaking limits, using too small of a ring, or using a heavily worn rope may result in a failure with a ring or a block, but the block can maximize the usable strength of the rigging line. So, yes a single ring CAN be used to negative rig a spar, and I frequently do it without incident. BUT a single ring can also MAY cause a failure if pushing the limits of the rope. It's complicated. Use big rings, and appropriately sized rigging lines, and be conservative with your chunk size and you should be fine. When in doubt go bigger with the rigging anchor or smaller with the load. The anchor is the point in the system experiencing the most load, and it is preferable for the rope to be the weakest link.
ISC should make a one way block much like the rope wrench set up but without the wrench part. If the bearings can support impact loads, it would be a really nice tool
Personally, I use Sterling Atlas 1/2" Double Braid. It's plenty strong enough for most applications, and it's fairly dynamic, with makes it forgiving if you put too much friction in the system (the rope itself will absorb a lot of energy, rather than just suddenly snapping). The point where I would be uncomfortable would be negative rigging big stuff, especially from low heights (where there's not a lot of rope to mitigate the shock), especially with inexperienced ground guys who don't know how to manage friction well. For those situations, bigger is better, but how big is big enough is hard to answer in a dynamic rigging situation.
i don't have a whole lot of knowledge with do all impact blocks but a idea has come to me if it would work like i was hoping it would? ....so on the one side of the block is a the pulley part but i was wondering if the other side of it could also be a pulley as well or if it fixed?
the side opposite the pulley is a fixed bushing. A rope could slide along that as it is a fairly low friction interaction but it would not be as efficient as a pulley.
I'm sorry but I'm a little confused. Maybe I missed something. Is that blue thingy a block or a pulley? Also the blue block/pulley hanging at the end looks like it might slip out in the set up you have.
The Blue thing is called a pulley or a snatch block those are both appropriate names. They are both used somewhat interchangeably. It can't come out of that sling because of the way it is spliced together.
@@Stridertrees I thought a block was for snatching and a pulley was for lighter loads as these guys describe blog.westechrigging.com/2012/01/difference-between-blocks-and-pulleys.html#:~:text=Blocks%20are%20extremely%20handy%20and,redirect%20a%20piece%20of%20line.&text=Pulleys%20are%20smaller%20and%20lighter,and%20not%20a%20wire%20rope.
I’ll most always use a pulley for minimum friction when pulling, unless it’s going to get hammered by the tree after it falls , then I might use a ring…
great video thanks. Ive had a 40 foot tree that a buddy wants me to take down. I went up asfar as I could with ladder and chainsaw, but the pieces are about a foot round or more, so I didnt know how to rope off the right way
It’s a complicated discussion that i simplified greatly for this video, but generally no, the total load on the tie in point is less with the added friction, if you take that to the extreme and literally lock off the rope at the tie in point (max friction) that MAY result in a greater “load moment” a higher brief spike in load ( that’s typically what breaks ropes and such) but because the rings generally allow the rope to slide through they may not disperse the load as evenly across the whole rigging line like a pulley would but they still generally won’t cause the extreme load moment. Some exceptions may be when the ring is pinched hard against the trunk in just the wrong way or if it is heavily loaded with sap and there is too much friction in the system etc.
Most rings do not meet rope manufacturer bend radius recommendations. And I really don't think they are ever better for the rope because they never cradle it the way a sheave is designed to. And pulleys and blocks are two different things 😬
While you’re not wrong about the bend radius consideration, independent testing has found that it virtually never comes into play as the MBS of the rope is always compromised most by the termination method, so that is where things break (when loads are catastrophically underestimated) when the rope/ring bend radius difference is even more extreme what tends to break next is the sling itself. As to the pulley/block nomenclature, how would you characterize the difference ?
@@Stridertrees I'm not familiar with the independent studies you've referenced, though I'm sure they exist. I've just heard of and seen enough ropes breaking in rings to make them a poor gear selection in my mind. Another problem is that ropes are not properly cradled in a ring like that are in a block sheave. The cradle is important for reducing internal fiber crush and friction and extending the life of the rope. If your sling is the failure point, then the sling and rope were not matched properly in the first place. The rope is always supposed to be the weakest link right? Also the sling often see a more acceptable bend radius. And as for the distinction, it may not be a hard fast rule, but typically blocks have bushings and pulleys have bearings. Blocks can handle shockloading better consequently.
@@zaccheus I’ve never heard of a rope breaking AT the ring, I could see a rope breaking at the knot close to the ring for a couple reasons including one you mentioned here; when the rope pinches between the ring and the tree, essentially clamping the rope and keeping it from running or distributing the load along more length of rope. I would also agree with you that due to “cradling” and other factors, use of a block or pulley will generally preserve the life of a rigging rope somewhat longer than running them through rings, especially small single rings rather than large or paired or tripled rings (like what I typically use for rigging bigger pieces). The extra abuse to the rope comes with the advantage of additional friction at the TIP which reduces the total load on the anchor, and rings are cheaper than blocks so maybe that makes up for some of the rope abuse. 🤷🏼♂️
@@Stridertrees I'll have to see if I can send you a video the next tome I come across one breaking at the ring. Some folks are of the opinion that double and triple rings are no better for the rope. They have more mass to store thermal energy while it dissipates, but they still have the same bend radius, and are maybe even harder on the rope because it gets squeezed twice by two bends rather than once by one bend. I dont think they have as much cost saving to them as often thought a big ring and ultra sling costs like $160 and a 3/4 ultra sling and block can be had for less than $300. Blocks have no assigned life span and are consistent and dependable, rings hurt the rope to an unknown degree, wear quickly, have more liabilities due to bend radii and run the risk of burning the handler. I dunno, there are few rules to the game if you chose to ignore rope manufacturer recommendations, so I guess it's to each their own 🤷♂️
@@Stridertrees Do you have any videos or research articles which demonstrate that "the MBS of the rope is always compromised most by the termination method"? This makes sense to me, but I'd love to see what backs it up.
Wait...seems to me the physics does not add up. If you use the ring and the ring adds friction....say 50 lbs. ( instead of 5 pounds of friction like the pulley ) the 100 pound branch is still generating all the same forces. The guy with the ring only has to deal with 50 lbs of felt force BUT the remaining 50 lbs is still being forced upon the ring at the friction point and the forces on the anchor are worse. Not better. The dynmic relief of pressure is not coming down to the ground and dissipating by lifting the person on the ground, instead itis hitting a bottleneck AT the ring and compounding forces there. In the rock climbing world you want as much rope as possible in as straight a line as possible going around the largest cross secction carabiner posssible to minimize impact forceon the top carabiner. Same goes for falling branches. They are the same as falling climbers. To take this video concept further and you get rid of the block ( because you dont want 200lbs force on the anchor ) and you get rid of a line through the ring ( because you dont want 150 lbs force on the anchor ) and instead tie a knot directly tot he ring itself and cut the 100 lb branch....now you dont end up with just 100 lb force on the anchor...you end up with catastrophic forces that directly impact the ring potentially destroying it... and the knots....and the rope...right?
There are a few points do address there that would require some explanation. You’re right in the general rule that (like in rock climbing) more rope is generally better, but that has to do with the dynamic ability of the rope to stretch and decrease the greatest moment of force which results from the rapid deceleration of the object falling. More stretch equals more time decelerating which equals a reduction in the maximum force exerted by the rope on the object. The advantage of the ring over the pulley is in the conversion of some of vectored tension of the rope at that point into heat via friction at the TIP. This results in a reduced overall directional force felt by the TIP when compared to the near frictionless interface of the Pulley or snatch block. The pulley does allow for the force on the rope to be spread more evenly across more rope (a good thing if the rope is the potential weak point) but if the TIP is the potential weak point in the system and the rope is plenty strong then the rings are better for sure. I don’t know if that clears things up, maybe I’ll do a better explaining video on a whiteboard someday 😂
@@Stridertrees I've been pondering these points for a bit and as a climber i am used to dynamic ropes, and i guess Arborists use only static? But in climbing the rope is the strong point ( as i am sure this fact you and this audience is well aware of ) the rope stretch in climbing rope not only decelerates the impact forces over time but also the length of the rope out converts that heat energy out over that length. More length the better. A block lets the forces travel further, faster, and then slap into whoever or whatever is on the ground to move and shake everything ( a belayer? ) to further absorb and dissipiate forces that a top anchor would feel. A static rope needs this help more...a belay device such as an ATC does more to dissipate energy than a gri gri for instance..as does a belay device connected to a person or truck hitch instead of to a tree trunk. climbers are weary of high impact forces on the top piece of protection ( an ice screw, old piton etc ) and won't have something that makes the rope have more running friction...they will instead double up carabiners for more smooth cross section for the rope and also add a Yates screamer ( a stitched folded nylon loop that rips hundreds of stitches out when impact forces get high--heat and time and distance.) Also, Climbers give a "soft catch" by letting rope slip through the belay during impact...i understand what you are stating but it seems to counter climbing philosophy. I would love to get a dyno way up a tree and see both methods results on the TIP!
Well i just found video where a guy puts a friction wrench on the load side of a pulley at the top and the weight on the anchor was lessened. Granted not impact forces but force just the same. Thanks for opening up an interesting subject. I have to keep looking into this...;)
!!! WARNING !!! Be aware that second time he put the impact block on the tree he put it very incorrectly - failure of the system under load would be inevitable.
I have 2 dead oak trees between the incoming electrical power lines. The more I look at the branches the less technical the removal really works for an experienced arborist. Sadly, most of the quotes are way out of the ballpark of what I can afford.
You're using the ring the wrong way. If you rig it so the ring spins inside a soft shackle/anchor line so the pull rope spins the ring like a pulley wheel, you won't have much friction loss at all.
Very helpful to us new guys. Although many arborists online seemed to have run out of ideas for useful content after a few years, actually many things in this industry have been overlooked or neglected. This video is a great example of this.
Even though this video is 3 years old, it continues to be relevant and well done. Straightforward. Easy to understand. Have many rigging blocks but just adding some rigging rings. Looking forward to trying them.
There is a HUGE difference between a block and a pulley. A pulley has one spindle and sheave. A block has two spindles and two sheaves, one is for the running rope, the other is for the anchoring rope/sling. A pulley should absolutely NEVER be used for negative rigging, or where shock load is likely. Only a block should be used for that. A pulley should always be above the load, or in a hoisting system. A block can be used below the load at the terminal point.
Great presentation on rigging rings and pullys. One circumstance that I have encountered where rigging rings where failing me was in a sappy fir tree. The ring got gummed up and literally stopped the rope from running.
Yes pine sap has a way of complicating things !!
Well explained! I didn't realize those things add a lot of friction.
I love you arb guys, so much smarter and thoughtful than the riggers of my industry
Thanks for a great video. Very valuable information
👍. Helpful. Clear and precise.
This was a definite positive to the newcomers and people that need this information very good job brother
The rigging block has the advantage to be installed mid lined. The friction rings can't be installed anytime on your lowering system. It has to be installed in the beginning before you even start to rig. That's the down side of the rings but I still like them. Very light weight device that doesn't get in your way on your saddle. Blocks are bulky, it definitely have it role for sure. Excellent video buddy.
Not anymore Petzl has a ring that opens
@@tommyc3420 really, have not seen that yet! cool
@@robertbettis6552 this can be bypassed with a bowline knot. just have to know how to quickly tie one
Excellent summary!
Thanks! This was very helpful.
Nice solid explanation! the only other difference I could see is that the Pulley is midline attachable if for some reason where ever in a situation where it would be helpful
Thanks that was an excellent explanation
Thanks, great information /detail
Great video
Great tip! I didn't realize rings added so much friction. I'm looking into improving my climbing & rigging game now that my 15-year-old son is able to be my down guy, so these videos are helpful. Any recommendation on video how to splice a rigging ring or double ring that is retrievable?
Good information
excellent information ..
Glad it was helpful!
You should consider doing a video to see how hard it is to actually lift with a double ring over a block. Would love to see if the difference justify the difference in cost...
thanks again!
Thank you for putting it in plain English
Thank you.
Thanks! 😉👍
still have 200 lbs on the anchor rope, 100 lbs load, + 50 lbs on holding line +50 lbs of friction which is also acting on the anchor rope. Advantage is less tension required on holding line.
I thought you might be right, but I read around. I'm pretty sure that the friction in this concept actually does reduce the load at the anchor.
Yer bein on the ground. Like xring just less wraps to let it run. Seems smoother on negative chunks. Spose more wraps means binds faster then not so smooth. But just prefence i spose. Thanks
Can a single ring be used to rig down chunks on a spar? I think I read somewhere that you need to use double rings unless it is used for a redirect. I could definitely be wrong I’ve never used them myself.
the answer to this is controversial. You can read the comment thread here and get some idea. The concern with using one ring is having too small of a bend radius for the rope passing through it, which will decrease the potential strength of the rigging rope in that configuration by some amount that is dependent on how badly mismatched the size of the ring is to the size of the rope. Also, the extra friction of the ring compared to a block or pulley will marginally increase the wear and tear on the rigging line. All of this downside is a matter of degrees. with a large enough single ring, and a small rigging rope the bend radius issue becomes virtually insignificant. The same is true if the pieces being rigged are small compared to the working load limit of the rigging line. All of the hazards come from pushing the limits of the gear. Using a rope too near to its breaking limits, using too small of a ring, or using a heavily worn rope may result in a failure with a ring or a block, but the block can maximize the usable strength of the rigging line.
So, yes a single ring CAN be used to negative rig a spar, and I frequently do it without incident. BUT a single ring can also MAY cause a failure if pushing the limits of the rope. It's complicated. Use big rings, and appropriately sized rigging lines, and be conservative with your chunk size and you should be fine. When in doubt go bigger with the rigging anchor or smaller with the load. The anchor is the point in the system experiencing the most load, and it is preferable for the rope to be the weakest link.
Isn't there also less heat generated with the block sheave vs with the ring?
There will be more heat at the porta-wrap with the block, but more heat at the ring and less at the porta-wrap without it.
ISC should make a one way block much like the rope wrench set up but without the wrench part. If the bearings can support impact loads, it would be a really nice tool
Yes that’d be great, I’d certainly use it more often if that was the case!
Yes that’d be great, I’d certainly use it more often if that was the case!
i used a pulley saver once and thought the same thing about having the one way pulley. easy to pull up, then friction for the hold/descent
Thompson Tree Tools makes one, www.thompsontreetools.com/shop/p/morganblock
What diameter rope is best for everyday rigging 5/8 or 1/2? I know another of rings only support .5 but curious to know what you think
Personally, I use Sterling Atlas 1/2" Double Braid. It's plenty strong enough for most applications, and it's fairly dynamic, with makes it forgiving if you put too much friction in the system (the rope itself will absorb a lot of energy, rather than just suddenly snapping). The point where I would be uncomfortable would be negative rigging big stuff, especially from low heights (where there's not a lot of rope to mitigate the shock), especially with inexperienced ground guys who don't know how to manage friction well. For those situations, bigger is better, but how big is big enough is hard to answer in a dynamic rigging situation.
i don't have a whole lot of knowledge with do all impact blocks but a idea has come to me if it would work like i was hoping it would? ....so on the one side of the block is a the pulley part but i was wondering if the other side of it could also be a pulley as well or if it fixed?
the side opposite the pulley is a fixed bushing. A rope could slide along that as it is a fairly low friction interaction but it would not be as efficient as a pulley.
@@Stridertrees I see ty
I don’t remember the last time I used a block for lowering. Rings rule!!!
I'm sorry but I'm a little confused. Maybe I missed something. Is that blue thingy a block or a pulley? Also the blue block/pulley hanging at the end looks like it might slip out in the set up you have.
The Blue thing is called a pulley or a snatch block those are both appropriate names. They are both used somewhat interchangeably. It can't come out of that sling because of the way it is spliced together.
@@Stridertrees I thought a block was for snatching and a pulley was for lighter loads as these guys describe blog.westechrigging.com/2012/01/difference-between-blocks-and-pulleys.html#:~:text=Blocks%20are%20extremely%20handy%20and,redirect%20a%20piece%20of%20line.&text=Pulleys%20are%20smaller%20and%20lighter,and%20not%20a%20wire%20rope.
Generally in the tree industry a block has bushings and a pulley has bearings. This was a block.
yup
Which would you rather use as a redirect if you’re pulling a tree over?
I’ll most always use a pulley for minimum friction when pulling, unless it’s going to get hammered by the tree after it falls , then I might use a ring…
@@Stridertrees Is there a pulley you recommend? THANKS much appreciated
I’ve always considered blocks and tackle, pulleys as rigging.
great video thanks. Ive had a 40 foot tree that a buddy wants me to take down. I went up asfar as I could with ladder and chainsaw, but the pieces are about a foot round or more, so I didnt know how to rope off the right way
Friction rings add more dynamic shock load to the trees when negative rigging, right? So it is better to use a pulley when negative rigging?
It’s a complicated discussion that i simplified greatly for this video, but generally no, the total load on the tie in point is less with the added friction, if you take that to the extreme and literally lock off the rope at the tie in point (max friction) that MAY result in a greater “load moment” a higher brief spike in load ( that’s typically what breaks ropes and such) but because the rings generally allow the rope to slide through they may not disperse the load as evenly across the whole rigging line like a pulley would but they still generally won’t cause the extreme load moment. Some exceptions may be when the ring is pinched hard against the trunk in just the wrong way or if it is heavily loaded with sap and there is too much friction in the system etc.
Most rings do not meet rope manufacturer bend radius recommendations. And I really don't think they are ever better for the rope because they never cradle it the way a sheave is designed to. And pulleys and blocks are two different things 😬
While you’re not wrong about the bend radius consideration, independent testing has found that it virtually never comes into play as the MBS of the rope is always compromised most by the termination method, so that is where things break (when loads are catastrophically underestimated) when the rope/ring bend radius difference is even more extreme what tends to break next is the sling itself. As to the pulley/block nomenclature, how would you characterize the difference ?
@@Stridertrees I'm not familiar with the independent studies you've referenced, though I'm sure they exist. I've just heard of and seen enough ropes breaking in rings to make them a poor gear selection in my mind. Another problem is that ropes are not properly cradled in a ring like that are in a block sheave. The cradle is important for reducing internal fiber crush and friction and extending the life of the rope. If your sling is the failure point, then the sling and rope were not matched properly in the first place. The rope is always supposed to be the weakest link right? Also the sling often see a more acceptable bend radius. And as for the distinction, it may not be a hard fast rule, but typically blocks have bushings and pulleys have bearings. Blocks can handle shockloading better consequently.
@@zaccheus I’ve never heard of a rope breaking AT the ring, I could see a rope breaking at the knot close to the ring for a couple reasons including one you mentioned here; when the rope pinches between the ring and the tree, essentially clamping the rope and keeping it from running or distributing the load along more length of rope. I would also agree with you that due to “cradling” and other factors, use of a block or pulley will generally preserve the life of a rigging rope somewhat longer than running them through rings, especially small single rings rather than large or paired or tripled rings (like what I typically use for rigging bigger pieces). The extra abuse to the rope comes with the advantage of additional friction at the TIP which reduces the total load on the anchor, and rings are cheaper than blocks so maybe that makes up for some of the rope abuse. 🤷🏼♂️
@@Stridertrees I'll have to see if I can send you a video the next tome I come across one breaking at the ring. Some folks are of the opinion that double and triple rings are no better for the rope. They have more mass to store thermal energy while it dissipates, but they still have the same bend radius, and are maybe even harder on the rope because it gets squeezed twice by two bends rather than once by one bend. I dont think they have as much cost saving to them as often thought a big ring and ultra sling costs like $160 and a 3/4 ultra sling and block can be had for less than $300. Blocks have no assigned life span and are consistent and dependable, rings hurt the rope to an unknown degree, wear quickly, have more liabilities due to bend radii and run the risk of burning the handler. I dunno, there are few rules to the game if you chose to ignore rope manufacturer recommendations, so I guess it's to each their own 🤷♂️
@@Stridertrees Do you have any videos or research articles which demonstrate that "the MBS of the rope is always compromised most by the termination method"? This makes sense to me, but I'd love to see what backs it up.
Wait...seems to me the physics does not add up. If you use the ring and the ring adds friction....say 50 lbs. ( instead of 5 pounds of friction like the pulley ) the 100 pound branch is still generating all the same forces. The guy with the ring only has to deal with 50 lbs of felt force BUT the remaining 50 lbs is still being forced upon the ring at the friction point and the forces on the anchor are worse. Not better. The dynmic relief of pressure is not coming down to the ground and dissipating by lifting the person on the ground, instead itis hitting a bottleneck AT the ring and compounding forces there. In the rock climbing world you want as much rope as possible in as straight a line as possible going around the largest cross secction carabiner posssible to minimize impact forceon the top carabiner. Same goes for falling branches. They are the same as falling climbers. To take this video concept further and you get rid of the block ( because you dont want 200lbs force on the anchor ) and you get rid of a line through the ring ( because you dont want 150 lbs force on the anchor ) and instead tie a knot directly tot he ring itself and cut the 100 lb branch....now you dont end up with just 100 lb force on the anchor...you end up with catastrophic forces that directly impact the ring potentially destroying it... and the knots....and the rope...right?
There are a few points do address there that would require some explanation. You’re right in the general rule that (like in rock climbing) more rope is generally better, but that has to do with the dynamic ability of the rope to stretch and decrease the greatest moment of force which results from the rapid deceleration of the object falling. More stretch equals more time decelerating which equals a reduction in the maximum force exerted by the rope on the object. The advantage of the ring over the pulley is in the conversion of some of vectored tension of the rope at that point into heat via friction at the TIP. This results in a reduced overall directional force felt by the TIP when compared to the near frictionless interface of the Pulley or snatch block. The pulley does allow for the force on the rope to be spread more evenly across more rope (a good thing if the rope is the potential weak point) but if the TIP is the potential weak point in the system and the rope is plenty strong then the rings are better for sure. I don’t know if that clears things up, maybe I’ll do a better explaining video on a whiteboard someday 😂
@@Stridertrees I've been pondering these points for a bit and as a climber i am used to dynamic ropes, and i guess Arborists use only static? But in climbing the rope is the strong point ( as i am sure this fact you and this audience is well aware of ) the rope stretch in climbing rope not only decelerates the impact forces over time but also the length of the rope out converts that heat energy out over that length. More length the better. A block lets the forces travel further, faster, and then slap into whoever or whatever is on the ground to move and shake everything ( a belayer? ) to further absorb and dissipiate forces that a top anchor would feel. A static rope needs this help more...a belay device such as an ATC does more to dissipate energy than a gri gri for instance..as does a belay device connected to a person or truck hitch instead of to a tree trunk.
climbers are weary of high impact forces on the top piece of protection ( an ice screw, old piton etc ) and won't have something that makes the rope have more running friction...they will instead double up carabiners for more smooth cross section for the rope and also add a Yates screamer ( a stitched folded nylon loop that rips hundreds of stitches out when impact forces get high--heat and time and distance.) Also, Climbers give a "soft catch" by letting rope slip through the belay during impact...i understand what you are stating but it seems to counter climbing philosophy. I would love to get a dyno way up a tree and see both methods results on the TIP!
Well i just found video where a guy puts a friction wrench on the load side of a pulley at the top and the weight on the anchor was lessened. Granted not impact forces but force just the same. Thanks for opening up an interesting subject. I have to keep looking into this...;)
@@beingaware8542 what video are you referring to?
@@Stridertrees The TIP experiences the same force (200 lbs) regardless if you are using the pulley or the ring. The laws of physics do not change.
!!! WARNING !!! Be aware that second time he put the impact block on the tree he put it very incorrectly - failure of the system under load would be inevitable.
Ha! Yes the pulley hanging on the wedged ring, hopefully no one is taking that as a technique 😆
I have 2 dead oak trees between the incoming electrical power lines. The more I look at the branches the less technical the removal really works for an experienced arborist. Sadly, most of the quotes are way out of the ballpark of what I can afford.
You're using the ring the wrong way. If you rig it so the ring spins inside a soft shackle/anchor line so the pull rope spins the ring like a pulley wheel, you won't have much friction loss at all.