Adjusting gas burner vintage 1936 Chambers Stove 11 A

Поділитися
Вставка
  • Опубліковано 2 лют 2025

КОМЕНТАРІ • 6

  • @nathancross6937
    @nathancross6937 2 роки тому +1

    Hello I’m Nathan I am a gas technician for heating and cooling that flame is perfect it is a bit tall the yellow is just dirty burner ports or if your on propane that will always look like that you will always have a tiny flash of yellow when burning any gas Sorce, my opinion is to get a torch tip cleaner for acetylene torches and clean each hole individually and like Kirk said get the right air shutter and check your nozzle size, hope you get it all figured out

    • @24Washington
      @24Washington  2 роки тому

      Thank you for your comment Nathan.
      Curious if you have viewed the patents and/or service manuals for these stoves.
      Also, did you read my response to Kirk?
      My air shutter is correct. Exactly as shown in the patent. And all of my nozzles are original (and for NG).
      One thing neither of you pointed out was the difference that having the drip tray in place can make to the air mix (and subsequent appearance of the flame).
      I generally have to adjust my air mix seasonally for whatever reason, but thankfully these wonderful, readily-serviceable stoves make it an easy task.

  • @kirkstinson7316
    @kirkstinson7316 2 роки тому

    That is NOT a Chambers stove air shutter. That's a Home made one. If the gas hood (the nozzle) has a very small opening then it's for LP gas, not natural gas. Make sure your connected to correct gas. Flame hight should be 3/8" tall with valve full open

    • @24Washington
      @24Washington  2 роки тому

      I must beg to differ. (Though your comment did prompt a short refresher through the various documents I've collected - so thanks for that! :) ).
      If you reference John Chamber's patent from the 30's, you'll see the burner is identical to mine.
      As to the orifice cap (hood/nozzle), yes, while replacement LP orifice caps had a smaller opening than NG, there were other service adjustments that would have to be made when a one-way NG-LP fuel switch was desired: Raising the burner cradles, and sawing off the "chimney"/spacer so that the burner would still fit under the burner grills. These provide visual clues to an LP conversion.
      There was also a 'universal orifice cap' which came with a drilled pin (earlier versions were solid) which, when tightened fully, closed off passage of all fuel around the sides of the pin, and only allowed it through the pin hole - the perfect amount for LP.

    • @Walkercolt1
      @Walkercolt1 27 днів тому

      My 1946 Chamber's Cook Stove OWNER'S MANUAL says the flame height on natural gas should be "A TWO-COLOR BUNSEN FLAME up to ONE INCH TALL for the top burners". 3/8 to 1/2 inch for the deep well and broiler flame, both two-color Bunsen flames. My air shutters are IDENTICAL to his, down to the square bolts. "To Change gas type, (producer's, propane, natural gas) remove the SUPPLY PIPE from rear of the stove and change the ORFICE from zinc to brass to steel, respectively." Producer's gas was semi-popular on the East Coast (and in Europe) and is a mixture of hydrogen and CARBON MONOXIDE gases!!! If the optional orfices aren't hanging on a wire on the back of your stove, they are MISSING. Each top burner is rated at 40,000 BTU/Hr. on natural gas so you can use a 46 qt. PRESSUR CANNER to process food safely. That's why early Chamber's use a 3/4 NPT INLET (ONLY if the connection is LESS than three feet) or the rare 5 top burner/deep well/oven/broiler models (Model 2B, 3B etc.) a ONE inch NPT supply. BUY AN OWNER'S MANUAL!!!

    • @24Washington
      @24Washington  27 днів тому

      Thank you for taking the time to share this additional insight!!
      I had never heard of producer's gas blend - delightful! 🤦‍♀️