Join Dr. Evans, and Bernie as they demonstrate chip budding, grafting, fruit tree, Instructional grafting, How to chip bud, grafting fruit trees, t-budding fruit trees
Dr. Evans is a fan of doing what works without being too technical for no reason. I'd advise trying both ways and seeing what provides the maximum results with the least amount of effort.
In case you have not seen this already, check this out: ua-cam.com/video/niOQaNZKcPk/v-deo.html I had the same thought as you but apparently with Parafilm M, it's thin enough to not stop the bud from breaking through. I just so happened to see that video first. My guess is that with thicker materials, the bud should not be covered.
Why should the graft point be as low as possible? He seems to suggest it's because of the cold weather where they are based? Can anyone explain the logic in this? Thank you
@@peacefulearth4us thank you. So can the tre actually die back quite a bit because of the cold but then still cone back the following spring ? Thank you
@@jamiemcdougall8365 We could use zone 3 for example. Any tree which is hardy to zone 3,2,1 could survive in zone 3, but in some times of the yr the temperature could get to less than -40C and the tree which is hardy to zone 3 cannot fully survive (while the zone 2 & 1 trees may survive). Those zone 3 trees could get winterkill from the ground and up, or sometimes 1-2 feet from the ground and up, depends on how cold it is, the location and how much snow on the ground at that time. The soil in winter is still warm (compare to the cold air above) thanks to the geothermal energy from the core of the earth. Besides, the snow acts as a blanket which protects the tree fom being too cold. Back to the graft, when you graft the scion on the rootstock in spring, the union could be above the ground, but when you plant that grafted tree in the ground in your garden, if the union is close to the ground level or even below the ground level, it’d get protection from the soil and the snow blanket. So if the tree gets winterkilled, only the part above the snow level is affected, and the part under snow can still comes back the following spring.
Don't jump down my throat now but his work seems very sloppy to me ... fingers all over the cambium and no thought to the cambium match-up between chip and rootstock.
I have to agree, especially since I watched ua-cam.com/video/niOQaNZKcPk/v-deo.html before seeing this video. Dr. Evans' chip bud does not match the size of the cut in the host/target tree. But if it works, hey! I'll try it.
Dr. Evans simply does what works and is most efficient in a production setting... I’d assume he washed his hands and tools prior to grafting - also the birds mouth cut is directly into the cambium, and the bud is inserted into the pocket with full cambium contact - as young branches callous over so quickly, alignment doesn’t need to be that of a finish carpenter, so maybe not as technically perfect, but Needing to repeat the process 1000 times in an actual production setting, every second one saves per bud is a lot of gained production...
@@BackSeatHump just checked out your channels bonsai video... funny stuff; and yes, if you do bonsai... then Dr.Evans budding techniques could be a little too ‘sloppy’ 🤣
Great demonstration! Thanks for sharing!
good
Nice
Hi, if i do precisely shallow cuts, right time, everything fine, what should be the problem of not taking? Thanks
Alberta Red, Alberta Buff, eh? On the list with them! Thanks for sharing. Any leads on scions? ;)
Dr Evans has a very unusual accent, he sounds like he is from the Caribbean
It's a Welsh accent - fyi
He does not abut the lower end of the bud with the scion He overlaps it. Easier but just as successful??
Absolutely! And likely more time saving if one is a professional grafting needing time repeat the process thousands of times!
You speak of high success rates with spring chip budding. How about mid-summer? What are your success rates then?
In mid Summer you miss a year of growth ... bud won't break in time.
He covered the bud with tape and I didn't think we were supposed to cover the bud?
Dr. Evans is a fan of doing what works without being too technical for no reason. I'd advise trying both ways and seeing what provides the maximum results with the least amount of effort.
In case you have not seen this already, check this out: ua-cam.com/video/niOQaNZKcPk/v-deo.html
I had the same thought as you but apparently with Parafilm M, it's thin enough to not stop the bud from breaking through. I just so happened to see that video first. My guess is that with thicker materials, the bud should not be covered.
The bud should be covered or it'd dry up. I did the same in the last few yrs for my garden.
What are your success rates then?
He told the success rates in the video.
Why should the graft point be as low as possible? He seems to suggest it's because of the cold weather where they are based? Can anyone explain the logic in this? Thank you
In Alberta it's really cold (zone 3) and we have winterkill sometimes, so the union should be low to protect the grafted part.
@@peacefulearth4us thank you. So can the tre actually die back quite a bit because of the cold but then still cone back the following spring ? Thank you
@@jamiemcdougall8365 We could use zone 3 for example. Any tree which is hardy to zone 3,2,1 could survive in zone 3, but in some times of the yr the temperature could get to less than -40C and the tree which is hardy to zone 3 cannot fully survive (while the zone 2 & 1 trees may survive). Those zone 3 trees could get winterkill from the ground and up, or sometimes 1-2 feet from the ground and up, depends on how cold it is, the location and how much snow on the ground at that time. The soil in winter is still warm (compare to the cold air above) thanks to the geothermal energy from the core of the earth. Besides, the snow acts as a blanket which protects the tree fom being too cold.
Back to the graft, when you graft the scion on the rootstock in spring, the union could be above the ground, but when you plant that grafted tree in the ground in your garden, if the union is close to the ground level or even below the ground level, it’d get protection from the soil and the snow blanket. So if the tree gets winterkilled, only the part above the snow level is affected, and the part under snow can still comes back the following spring.
I wonder why the difference, I've had 95%+ with fruit across the board 80% walnut an about 0.0% pecan but only 3 attempts
Might be graft incompatible.
Don't jump down my throat now but his work seems very sloppy to me ... fingers all over the cambium and no thought to the cambium match-up between chip and rootstock.
Do what works and don't sweat the rest.
I have to agree, especially since I watched ua-cam.com/video/niOQaNZKcPk/v-deo.html before seeing this video. Dr. Evans' chip bud does not match the size of the cut in the host/target tree. But if it works, hey! I'll try it.
Dr. Evans simply does what works and is most efficient in a production setting... I’d assume he washed his hands and tools prior to grafting - also the birds mouth cut is directly into the cambium, and the bud is inserted into the pocket with full cambium contact - as young branches callous over so quickly, alignment doesn’t need to be that of a finish carpenter, so maybe not as technically perfect, but Needing to repeat the process 1000 times in an actual production setting, every second one saves per bud is a lot of gained production...
@@Prohortico Sounds good to me. 😊
@@BackSeatHump just checked out your channels bonsai video... funny stuff; and yes, if you do bonsai... then Dr.Evans budding techniques could be a little too ‘sloppy’ 🤣
Sorry had to mark you down as i don't believe what you say is correct that is when i can actually understand what your saying