Would it make a difference on which way the end float goes? You hung you cam vertically when the cam is horizontal in the engine is running . If the end float is going one way more than the other way could it cause the cam lobes offset on the tappets enough to change the rotation of the tappets and lead to improper wear?
Interesting thought. But if you think about it the end float is just the total difference in size between the slot in the cam and the retainer. Notice at 13:35 in the video that I use a screwdriver to raise and lower it while measuring with a dial indicator. Whether it is vertical, or horizontal, that gap will be the same as long as I am measuring it as the cam is moved from one extreme (all the way in) to the other (all the way out). It is constrained by the retainer. Since the retainer is bolted right on the block it will always be in the same place always, no matter which way the engine is oriented. So no matter how the engine is oriented, the retainer to tappet relationship stays the same. Good thought though. I did think about this very thing with respect to the thickness of the gasket between the front engine plate and the block. Too thick and it would move the retainer out from the block. I was thinking, instead of the issue with the tappet rotation, about the change in the thrust on the distributor drive gear.... I like thought exercises like that. Keep them coming!
Great information. Did you decide on the S2 cam grind spec from TSI? Should I consider installing the cam before the crank as I don’t have a friendly helper with small hands? Thanks as always.
You are welcome. I love hearing what you are up to as well, so keep me posted. Yes, the S2. I wanted something that would add power, but down lower in the RPM range as I don't like revving, and am not planning on racing. I also wanted to keep the idle RPMs reasonable. I have a similar cam from TSI in my Spitfire, and am happy with it. You could still install the cam afterwards. I haven't tried installing before, so not sure what you might run into - perhaps some struggles with the end plate, finishing blocks, etc . So wouldn't do the cam first. Just clean the cam bearing surfaces one last time, and put assembly lube on them before installing the crank. You might even use assembly grease, like that from Joe Gibbs, which would stay in place a long time in case you don't get to it for awhile. (no financial interest, I have no sponsors). Just keep it covered up/enclosed so it doesn't attract dirt/dust from the air until you do install the cam.
Thanks for the response. I am also going with a new S2 cam. My old cam had a lobe so far gone that a re-grind didn’t appear to be an option. My engine components have been at the shop since mid December, so I hope it will be ready to start assembly by April. In the interim, I am finishing the replacement of all suspension bushings. I also want to tear down and rebuild the gearbox as it had a minor whine in second gear. I am hoping to complete the full driveline mechanical restoration by May. Your videos are a great reference for me so please keep them coming.
Will do. I bought an overdrive gearbox, rebuilt, so won't do that. But the TR3 Overdrive gearbox is on the list! You will likely beat me at the pace I am going....
Discrepancies in the manuals like this is what drives owners who aren’t trained mechanics crazy. That’s what makes your channel so valuable!
Thank you!
Good job, Jordyn. Or is that goop job, Jordyn?
Jordyn is my secret weapon!!!!
Would it make a difference on which way the end float goes? You hung you cam vertically when the cam is horizontal in the engine is running .
If the end float is going one way more than the other way could it cause the cam lobes offset on the tappets enough to change the rotation of the tappets and lead to improper wear?
Interesting thought. But if you think about it the end float is just the total difference in size between the slot in the cam and the retainer. Notice at 13:35 in the video that I use a screwdriver to raise and lower it while measuring with a dial indicator. Whether it is vertical, or horizontal, that gap will be the same as long as I am measuring it as the cam is moved from one extreme (all the way in) to the other (all the way out). It is constrained by the retainer. Since the retainer is bolted right on the block it will always be in the same place always, no matter which way the engine is oriented. So no matter how the engine is oriented, the retainer to tappet relationship stays the same.
Good thought though. I did think about this very thing with respect to the thickness of the gasket between the front engine plate and the block. Too thick and it would move the retainer out from the block. I was thinking, instead of the issue with the tappet rotation, about the change in the thrust on the distributor drive gear.... I like thought exercises like that. Keep them coming!
Great information. Did you decide on the S2 cam grind spec from TSI? Should I consider installing the cam before the crank as I don’t have a friendly helper with small hands? Thanks as always.
You are welcome. I love hearing what you are up to as well, so keep me posted.
Yes, the S2. I wanted something that would add power, but down lower in the RPM range as I don't like revving, and am not planning on racing. I also wanted to keep the idle RPMs reasonable. I have a similar cam from TSI in my Spitfire, and am happy with it. You could still install the cam afterwards. I haven't tried installing before, so not sure what you might run into - perhaps some struggles with the end plate, finishing blocks, etc . So wouldn't do the cam first. Just clean the cam bearing surfaces one last time, and put assembly lube on them before installing the crank. You might even use assembly grease, like that from Joe Gibbs, which would stay in place a long time in case you don't get to it for awhile. (no financial interest, I have no sponsors). Just keep it covered up/enclosed so it doesn't attract dirt/dust from the air until you do install the cam.
Thanks for the response. I am also going with a new S2 cam. My old cam had a lobe so far gone that a re-grind didn’t appear to be an option. My engine components have been at the shop since mid December, so I hope it will be ready to start assembly by April. In the interim, I am finishing the replacement of all suspension bushings. I also want to tear down and rebuild the gearbox as it had a minor whine in second gear. I am hoping to complete the full driveline mechanical restoration by May. Your videos are a great reference for me so please keep them coming.
Will do. I bought an overdrive gearbox, rebuilt, so won't do that. But the TR3 Overdrive gearbox is on the list! You will likely beat me at the pace I am going....