You just provided an answer to my question I had in mind about "does it count as spray if you spray organically?!" You are simply a godsend teacher to me :D Thanks for sharing such wonderful info with us. As a home gardener, I found many kitchen/home ingredients super helpful to fend off black spot and powdery mildew. Diluted milk, orange peel water, baking soda, oxygen peroxide are all on my good list. Egg shell powder is extremely good for the soil and hence makes plants stronger to defend themselves against a lot of diseases. Somehow I don't find neem meal/oil that helpful as it's claimed. Hope people will find roses are not that hard to keep.
I cultured own lactobaccilus culture and use that and has seen great results. It's basically the diluted milk remedy that people have used successfully in the past.
All of your videos are no nonsense and right to the point. I’ve been so successful with your Tomato video last year. This year Rose propagation. Thank you
This was excellent Jason, I've trialled with Potassium bicarbonate and Sodium bicarbonate and had better success with the former, great stuff- good to see - the worst problem areas I deal with on on south facing walls with climbing roses where the mildew is exacerbated by dryness at the roots which can be hard to combat (on a once-a-week visit basis!) so it certainly helped. Another great video.
I love all the detail and science you provided here! Thanks also for the 'what this looks like IRL' -- so many of us are visual learners and I came away from this video feeling confident and like I actually get what you're saying!
Thanks for bringing sanity to you tube gardening practices...The key is low doseage. While I live in the standard measurement world I use metric measurements for gardening
A great video rationalizing the use of natural pest and disease control. Just as an FYI, I watch a fairly popular Canadian cooking channel and he is constantly re-educating his USA, subscribers that they need to use the measurements based upon either liquid or dry measures. Because between countries they are often confused. Cheers!
Excellent tip Jason! I have been so focused on coffee that I totally forgot about Sodium Bicarbonate as a fungal treatment. We actually spread it out on the ground as a coque frog eliminator, but the benefits as a fungal remedy are enormous, especially with the humidity and tropical shading. I actually used to spray the apple and peach orchards twice a year in Northeastern Washington state as a kid. What a great reminder.👌🤙
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm It's actually good for slugs and snails as well, but only when there is not a lot of rain. The coque frogs are small and like to hide in the decaying material where they can stay moist. The Sodium Bicarbonate dries them out. They are an imported pest from plants in South America and they have become a huge problem throughout the islands. Thanks again for the reminder, I will be mixing some spray in the near future for mango, tea, and the citrus trees because they are beginning to flush with new growth and soon after start flowering. We'll see what happens.🤙
@@johnman559 Yes. Much safer and less harsh than sulfur. I will also will also spray a copper mix on avocados to adjust their balance and address leaf rust.
@@johnman559 I will also be using potassium bicarbonate on other plants. The mixture is a bit different and only as a very light surface spray (no ground saturation) only a fine mist spray. This is a particular trial treatment because we have an unusual infestation that I am not sure if it is related to coffee rust or not. Rather than panic, I try to use things that have worked for other situations and like this, when I'm reminded of things I've done in the past or others share as a possibility. I know the sodium part sounds off, but as a natural element, it can be beneficial at times, in very small amounts. It is important to note that I am growing a broad range of different types of plants and many I am cultivating in less than ideal situations on purpose to prepare for a move to a much higher elevation and quite a bit cooler temperatures. The fungal remedies are in anticipation of added moisture that will likely linger on the plants for a longer portion of the day than what is normal for my current location. I have moved these particular plants to the North side of the building in a shadier area to simulate the cooler, cloudier area I will be moving to. I don't recommend my methods to others because they require constant monitoring and evaluation in case adjustments or corrections need to be made. In some cases I have had to completely unpot and reconfigure the soil of some plants because they reacted poorly. All part of growing plants.
This is so use full Jason. I have problems with mildew on squash plants and I've heard of it on tomatoes. I'm betting this would be good for them as well. Thank you.
Thank-you for the excellent information! Chitosan is new to me. The use of Imperial measure in these situations drive me bats sometimes. (Or more bats than I already am.) Particularly when instructions on the package say something like "milliliters per gallon". And if I just need a tiny amount ..... well..... Really, I should just get a digital scale with metric capability. I already have liquid measuring cups with metric gradations. No measuring cups with small amounts of milliliters, so I have used a syringe. In a past career of baking and pastry work folks would go into all manner of gyrations converting metric to Imperial, when it would have been right much easier to simply get metric measuring devices.
Just sprayed my Mango Tree bloom with a Neem oil solution hoping to ward off powdery mildew & spider mites. Next month I'm planting a 35 foot long hedge of roses for the first time.(zone 10a in Florida) Slightly worried about black spot and every thing else that comes with subtropical humidity & high temps. I'm sure I'm going to need a spray routine of sorts. I'll be watching what you do closely 👀
@Brian Moody Brian, I'm in humid North Texas. You didn't ask for advice, but I have some thoughts for you, if you're interested: #1 Know what rose rosette is, and be ruthless if you see it. Also know that new roses from the nursery can come in with it!! Jason has a video about it. #2 Air circulation and early morning sun are your friends. Plant at a distance to allow breathing room between the mature plants. I was shocked when 3 Belinda's Dream planted 6' apart grew into a solid wall after just 3 years! #3 The value of naturally disease resistant varieties CANNOT be over-emphasized!! I grew BD before it was tagged an "Earth-Kind" variety, so I was surprised when it was awarded that status. It gets powdery mildew and black spot every year, but at least those don't kill it, even without spraying. I'm experimenting with Kourdes roses for alleged disease resistance. I can already tell you, the spider mites love them some Kourdes roses, lol. #4 I have learned the value of diversity. I would recommend NOT having a hedge of one variety; if there's a problem, you could lose your whole hedge (or, it could just be ugly). Depending on the variety you're using, I would plant no more than 6-8 roses in that long of a space. The new roses I just bought say they are 3' wide at maturity. I'm planting them 5' apart, and in groups of 3 of one variety. Good luck. Sorry to jump in, unasked. Have been growing roses in Cottage gardens, mixed perennial beds, hedges (no more!) and as specimens for over 35 years. Mistakes have been made, lol, and I'm not as willing to accommodate high-maintenance divas as I once was!!
@@demesrvl6761 Thank you so much for the advice! They are all David Austin(mixed varieties) and rated for my zone. I have to do this hedge. It has been on my mind for so long & I am prepared to fail lol.
I didn't know you can spray in the winter. Great information as I have both black spit and powers mildew. We have wineries in South Jersey so I will look for the smaller quantities trick. I only have three rose bushes. Thanks again Jason!
Try mixing wood ash with water while bubbling air into it. Makes natural potassium bicarbonate which is a pretty good fungicide. Use it on putting greens from time to time on the lower mainland.
Yes, you are right ! Never heard of that product ! See, I even forgot the name..haha . 😂🤣 I am glad I don't get powdery mildew in FL but good to learn something new everytime I watch your video. I love your sprayer !
Excellent stuff. I'm glad you stick to published studies. I use lacto bacteria sprays that I cultured myself and it's been working wonders with regards to fungal infections on my plants, I wonder if there are studies about that but I can see how it's harder to do a paper on it (diy lacto culture most likely vary dramatically based on number of live cultures and species diversity). I will do a trial with potassium salts and chidosan this year, I think.
Jason: Good input. One thing... I'd be surprised if you're getting a uniform solution without better agitation. I suggest a paint stirring blade on a cordless drill. This would best be done in a 5 gallon pail, then poured into the tank. Both ingredients may be soluble, but not instantaneously. A word to the wise. ron
I’ve just started growing roses (Uk based zone 8 ) . Most of them are bare rooted and I believe it’s a good period to give them now a healthy start for spring . Searching on google after chitosan , I’ve only found it as food supplement. Which I’m assuming is the same as the one you use in your video . Would you consider this mix better fungicide as sulphur by itself ? Great educational videos , thank you !
So long as it's the water soluble type - should be the same as in food prep or sold as a wine-making supply. I haven't seen anything about it combined with sulfur - but rather with potassium sorbate or potassium bicarbonate.
Chitin is a good source of fiber for the human gut. The supplement is called chitosan. I didn't know it's a fungicid. It is the preferred food of Bifidobacterium breve, which produces lactic acid, which kills anaerobe bacteria in the gut.
That’s interesting information, and from the man who taught me how to eliminate my ant problem! As a winemaker I already have the potassium bicarbonate. Last season I sprayed my grapes and garden with white oil made from canola, I wonder if the potassium bicarbonate would be a good addition to my white oil spray.
Thanks - and I'm not so sure about the combination. I've seen mixes with a little bit of oil and bicarb, but I'd be really careful with the rates and testing so that you don't cause burn on the foliage.
Hi Jason, As always, another informative video. I'm wondering if this recipe would be effective on rust which I've recently discovered on my 20+ year old Abraham Darby? I'll be removing and destroying the infected leaves later today but wonder if you have any other suggestions on treating rust? Many thanks!
I haven't tested it on rust (as it's not a serious threat in my climate) but it's fairly general purpose on fungal diseases so far as I read in the literature.
I for one was so happy to learn there was organic environmentally friendly ways to fight black spot! Have you looked in to Dr Earths natural organic fungicide? It seems to have lots of interesting natural ingredients! Also Are you going to be spraying copper this winter as well?
Brilliant Jason! Really like that spray system, too. Will this do for Codling moth!? I'm down here in southern Australia & I can't believe I lost all my apples to this pest (we picked all the affected fruit, so the risk of reinfestation is probably over, nothing left for them to eat - other than my quinces...) - I've never had a problem before, & to be honest I was ignorant of them being a problem with fruit here - I now know better - This spring/summer seems especially bad for black spot, whatever eats rose leaves (ants or bees?) & even rust, will this 'spray' help those & when are the best times to use it - obviously not on a hot summer's day? Whether it be roses or fruit trees? Thanks a bunch.
lime sulfur is a cornerstone "organic" spray but it's been delisted for home use in the US for some reason. can still be found pretty easily. use PPE while applying it (eyes especially) but once applied it's one of the most benign things out there as far as the environment and eating. is it allowed for home use in canada?
Thanks Michael - it's still available in Canada, but bureaucrats here seems to randomly target some remedies (like Borax for instance) for review, so you can never be sure what they'll go after next.
The aversion to sprays and the like never made a ton of sense to me. It's especially baffling when the chemical(s) used are things found in nature - e.g. potassium bicarbonate. In every single plant across the world, potassium ions are present throughout plant tissue in many roles, and bicarbonate ions are also present in several processes such as photosynthesis or nutrient uptake - to uptake negatively-charged nutrients like nitrate (NO3-) or various forms of phosphorus (e.g. HPO4-) the root cells basically swap a bicarbonate ion (HCO3-) for one of those ions to maintain the electrical balance of the plant. Once your potassium bicarbonate is dissolved into water, it breaks up into potassium ions and bicarbonate ions anyway, and there is literally no way to differentiate "sprayed" potassium/bicarbonate ions from those found in the plant or in the soil. Ditto for chitosan, which can be produced when a plant tries to break down chitin found in fungal cell walls and in insect exoskeletons through chitinases. If something is already present in, or synthesised by the plant anyway, it's extremely unlikely that a plant will become hazardous in some way if you apply a bit more of the thing. This applies to things like potassium bicarbonate, chitosan, acetylsalicylic acid (aka aspirin), the various plant growth regulators present in kelp, or even molasses (which are basically purified sugarcane!). I'm even more baffled when someone ridicules sprays but then advocates for a "natural" way of applying the same chemical in concentrated form to the soil. I'm willing to bet that that same customer would have no problems if they were told instead that the apple tree was grown in soil amended with neem cake and kelp meal.
I haven't established a schedule for the season - and this was just a one-off spray to follow up on damage from the cold snap. In the main season I expect to rotate through this formula, the sulfur burner, and maybe a potassium sorbate/chitosan mix every 7-10 days or as need to keep the mildew off through the selling season.
Could someone tell me how to get the very large print off of the video. There is a printed version of what Jason is saying but its so large I can't see his picture or what he's holding. Thx.
@Wind Dancer it could be that Closed Captioning was turning on. On the screen, look for an icon that looks like a box with CC inside the box. If you don't see the icon, look for an icon of three small "dots" in a column (or row, there doesn't seem to be much universality to this). Click on the dots and look for the CC icon, or sometimes it just says Close Captioning, Good luck!!
Thanks for an excellent tip! I often goes to your videos when I seek answers. I have a question about cuttings. I’ve been working in a empty little house (painting) and there was an old overgrown garden there, the main building is from 1830, the garden of course younger but still old. The owners had made a beautiful big garden with trees, a pound, orchards, flower beds and LOTS of roses. The island I live on is famous for its limestone and roses with mild climate for Sweden, hardly any snow and maybe 10-14 nights with temperature below zero Celsius a year. The plants here have already started to push some new growth. So, with owners ok I took a whole bunch of rose cuttings my last day at work there (yesterday), mostly semi hard, and I’ve got growing hormones, but I’m not sure where to put them? Only in pots in the shadow or I a plastic bin as humidity dome?
@Asa Liden Jason has several really good videos about growing from cuttings and also a video of what could go wrong. I suggest binge-watching them this weekend, lol. I searched "Frazer Valley cuttings" and found these two, but there are so many more!! ua-cam.com/video/211r10Jj_OY/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/fkL-KHQvk8Y/v-deo.html Jason- in your free time (Ha!!), It would be wonderful if you would create a playlist of your many videos about propagation!! ...I'm just full of suggestions this morning, lol
Because you're not dealing with intense sun this time of year, I'd use a humidity dome in a relatively bright location. If you had some hot direct sun, it might heat up too much, but I'd also have some vent holes in the plastic bin (or leave a little gap underneath to allow some air to escape.
Thanks Jason! I want to try this. Can you give an idea for a regular spray bottle amounts needed like equal parts etc? Also would this mixture harm other beneficial insects like ladybugs etc?
Thank you for such a terrifically informative and helpful video. Now please allow me to return the favor… I’m pretty sure you’re mispronouncing “Chitosan” Chitin is a fibrous substance consisting of polysaccharides and forming the major constituent in the exoskeleton of arthropods and the cell walls of fungi. The correct pronunciation of “chitin” is: KY-TIN which leads me the believe the product ‘Chitosan’ is actually correctly pronounced similarly… KY-TOW-SAN 👍
Neem oil isn't deemed safe for consumables in Canada as far as Im aware. I couldn't find it sold in Canada and that was the reason why I found. I live in/am from the same area you are so not sure who is right here but I say Chitosan and Surfacant very differently xD
Bureaucracy is going to do what it does, but it's of course perplexing to me that in the US Neem is approved for use as a pesticide, and is even by the certifying bodies for Organic production. Here in Canada, you could say it wasn't "deemed safe" but if you listed to the interviews with health Canada, it's probably more precise to say that it hasn't been "deemed" anything at all, since they haven't initiated any studies - and probably won't unless someone wants to pay the fees for reports and committees and so on. I, of course, wasn't basing my thoughts about the orchardist's spray concoction on anything regulatory at the time - and have only since seen that it's a pretty common part of the organic orchard rotations in the US.
Studies conducted in India showed active ingredient in need is responsible for shrinking the testes in insects... Possible estrogenic effects affect humans? pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8226307/
please help. My new DA rose has this waxy scaly stuff on one of the stem. This is all new growth, not a wax coated plant from big box store. Direct purchase from DA USA, i wish I could send a photo. Remedy? Insectisidal soap?
Hi there, can you use potassium bicarbonate mixed with surfactant every week as a preventative or curative way ? ( or could it burn, kill the plant or damage soil ), please ? And can I use your mix ( Chitosan + potassium bicarbonate every week ? Many thanks 😊
Do you still use this mixture? I sprayed my roses with deer spray by bobbex and the weak ones (rose bushes) got black spot:/ Deer ate half of my roses (new growth) I can’t have a fence here and not sure what else to do Neem oil or this mixture? Also how often do you use this to treat disease?
Yes, it's one of my go-to mixes (alternating with sulfur). Neem hasn't had much activity for me. Depending on disease pressure I might go every 3rd week during the spring as a preventive.
A product called Liquid Fence has worked (so far, any way) for me. Works for rabbits as well. If one is not willing to enclose the entire garden (which I am not, although I enclose some plants, like some roses), you have to try a lot of different strategies and keep changing things up. Last year the rabbits were worse than the deer.
Jason what can I use on strawberry plants (only 3) I rooted in water (because I wanted to get them off the mother plant before the freeze ,didn't have enough time to root in patch and wanted to keep them for spring) I'm growing inside but it looks like they may have spider mites. Like barely visible kinda webby looking things on leaves and killed my 4th plant. It got dry and crusty. But I have them with all my succulents and other plants under my grow lights ( on my plant growing shelves, lack of better words at the moment) so is it spider mites? I don't see any insects anywhere but are they visible?
I can see them with my naked eye, but some people require magnification. They're not generally a problem in cooler weather, but may still be the problem if growing inside.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm it appears from everything I've looked at, they are spider mites. I ordered some neen oil to use but won't arrive until a few days to a week, our stores don't carry it around here right now because it's not the growing season? So is there something like alcohol or backing soda, ETCETERA I can use temporary, to stop the damage, until I get the neem oil?
You can try rubbing alcohol (diluted to 25% of the solution) and use it with a cloth or paper towel to carefully wipe down the upper and lower surfaces of leaves removing the webbing and most of the adult mites. You won't get everything (most likely) but it'll reduce severity in the meanwhile.
I will definitely be trying this thank you so much for sharing! Have you heard of Serenade Garden AGRSER32 it has Bacillus subtilis bacteria as the active ingredient and it’s a beneficial bacteria that has fungicide properties! I haven’t used it yet but it sounds so neat. It’s like when we take probiotics. 😁
Thanks Serena. I really like the concept of Bacillus subtilis - the distributor locally sells in a fairly large (expensive) size, so I haven't experimented with it personally.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you Jason! I will try it on the Abutilon with varigated leaves. I bought Chitosan to try, but I probably should read up when is the best time to apply this fungicide. I am in the peak of summer in zone 10a. Should I need to wait when the temperatures are cooler?
do you have an efficient fungicide to kill spidermites and white flies i have the biggest problem last year even i try neem oil, orange oil, dish soap but nothing stop them.
@Lolitabonita to help you as you search for solutions: "...cide" means "kill". So, a fungicide kills fungus Insecticide kills insects (and sometimes arthropods) Herbicides kill plants (each herbicide kills different kinds of plants) Pesticide is a generic term for anything you want to kill, which includes all the other "codes"
@@demesrvl6761 thank you so much for clarify the terms...I want something that is "safe" to use and try not to kill the good insects or other critters around my backyard.
I was reading that baking soda is sodium bicarbonate not potassium bicarbonate and baking soda has a lot of sodium which is bad for plant health and soil. Is there any truth to this?
Yikes!! I'm driving and can't watch!! Ok, I'll listen while driving and watch later if I need to. Sounds like a good one!! Oh, what am I saying? They're ALL good!
There is a study about people like the lady who was upset about spraying . It’s called the Dunning and Kruger effect. Search for it on UA-cam. We’re all guilty at one time or another…
I completely got over the whole "organic" thing, which makes you drink the "cool aid" but doesnt represent the truth/reality. Evaluate every input on individual basis. Radioactivity etc are part of nature and nothing good about it, or too much copper, sulfur...natural or not. Truth is more complicated than "synthetic chemical bad". Thanks for sharing. Will have a look at the chitozan.
You bet. It makes no sense to draw an arbitrary line between "natural" and "chemical" (since everything in nature is also a chemical!). I'm obviously wary of spraying anything with a long label of hazards or PPE requirements, but definitely something you need to assess on each input.
![Beginners: Press [mute] on Rose Experts as You Learn the Hobby](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kFaQwgqG61I/mqdefault.jpg)
![Beginners: Press [mute] on Rose Experts as You Learn the Hobby](/img/tr.png)
You just provided an answer to my question I had in mind about "does it count as spray if you spray organically?!" You are simply a godsend teacher to me :D Thanks for sharing such wonderful info with us.
As a home gardener, I found many kitchen/home ingredients super helpful to fend off black spot and powdery mildew. Diluted milk, orange peel water, baking soda, oxygen peroxide are all on my good list. Egg shell powder is extremely good for the soil and hence makes plants stronger to defend themselves against a lot of diseases. Somehow I don't find neem meal/oil that helpful as it's claimed. Hope people will find roses are not that hard to keep.
I have exactly the same experience, including the disappointment with the effect of neem oil on my plants
Diluted milk has also worked for me.
I also agree that I've had poor results with the Neem oil.
I cultured own lactobaccilus culture and use that and has seen great results. It's basically the diluted milk remedy that people have used successfully in the past.
Baking powder or baking soda?
All of your videos are no nonsense and right to the point. I’ve been so successful with your Tomato video last year. This year Rose propagation. Thank you
Nice! Happy to hear it Janet.
This was excellent Jason, I've trialled with Potassium bicarbonate and Sodium bicarbonate and had better success with the former, great stuff- good to see - the worst problem areas I deal with on on south facing walls with climbing roses where the mildew is exacerbated by dryness at the roots which can be hard to combat (on a once-a-week visit basis!) so it certainly helped. Another great video.
I love all the detail and science you provided here! Thanks also for the 'what this looks like IRL' -- so many of us are visual learners and I came away from this video feeling confident and like I actually get what you're saying!
Thanks for bringing sanity to you tube gardening practices...The key is low doseage. While I live in the standard measurement world I use metric measurements for gardening
A great video rationalizing the use of natural pest and disease control. Just as an FYI, I watch a fairly popular Canadian cooking channel and he is constantly re-educating his USA, subscribers that they need to use the measurements based upon either liquid or dry measures. Because between countries they are often confused. Cheers!
Excellent tip Jason!
I have been so focused on coffee that I totally forgot about Sodium Bicarbonate as a fungal treatment. We actually spread it out on the ground as a coque frog eliminator, but the benefits as a fungal remedy are enormous, especially with the humidity and tropical shading. I actually used to spray the apple and peach orchards twice a year in Northeastern Washington state as a kid. What a great reminder.👌🤙
Well I would never have guessed at its use for frog elimination - I learn something new every day!
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm It's actually good for slugs and snails as well, but only when there is not a lot of rain.
The coque frogs are small and like to hide in the decaying material where they can stay moist. The Sodium Bicarbonate dries them out. They are an imported pest from plants in South America and they have become a huge problem throughout the islands.
Thanks again for the reminder, I will be mixing some spray in the near future for mango, tea, and the citrus trees because they are beginning to flush with new growth and soon after start flowering. We'll see what happens.🤙
Hang on Jason he's going to spray his plants with SODIUM bicarbonate!
@@johnman559 Yes. Much safer and less harsh than sulfur. I will also will also spray a copper mix on avocados to adjust their balance and address leaf rust.
@@johnman559 I will also be using potassium bicarbonate on other plants. The mixture is a bit different and only as a very light surface spray (no ground saturation) only a fine mist spray. This is a particular trial treatment because we have an unusual infestation that I am not sure if it is related to coffee rust or not.
Rather than panic, I try to use things that have worked for other situations and like this, when I'm reminded of things I've done in the past or others share as a possibility.
I know the sodium part sounds off, but as a natural element, it can be beneficial at times, in very small amounts.
It is important to note that I am growing a broad range of different types of plants and many I am cultivating in less than ideal situations on purpose to prepare for a move to a much higher elevation and quite a bit cooler temperatures. The fungal remedies are in anticipation of added moisture that will likely linger on the plants for a longer portion of the day than what is normal for my current location.
I have moved these particular plants to the North side of the building in a shadier area to simulate the cooler, cloudier area I will be moving to.
I don't recommend my methods to others because they require constant monitoring and evaluation in case adjustments or corrections need to be made.
In some cases I have had to completely unpot and reconfigure the soil of some plants because they reacted poorly. All part of growing plants.
Pesticide is a immunity booster every plant likes it. I always use neem oil on my plants. Thank you Jason sir👍👍
Can you please tell me the proportion of Neem oil you put in a liter of water? Ciao from Italy
@@Alfakkin Hi Ciao, use 2ml neem oil with 1 litre water.
This is so use full Jason. I have problems with mildew on squash plants and I've heard of it on tomatoes. I'm betting this would be good for them as well. Thank you.
Great info. The addition of chitosan was new to me.
I’m definitely going to try that mixture. I’ve tried camomile tea as a spray for fungus with mixed results. Great information thank you
Thank-you for the excellent information! Chitosan is new to me. The use of Imperial measure in these situations drive me bats sometimes. (Or more bats than I already am.) Particularly when instructions on the package say something like "milliliters per gallon". And if I just need a tiny amount ..... well..... Really, I should just get a digital scale with metric capability. I already have liquid measuring cups with metric gradations. No measuring cups with small amounts of milliliters, so I have used a syringe. In a past career of baking and pastry work folks would go into all manner of gyrations converting metric to Imperial, when it would have been right much easier to simply get metric measuring devices.
Just sprayed my Mango Tree bloom with a Neem oil solution hoping to ward off powdery mildew & spider mites. Next month I'm planting a 35 foot long hedge of roses for the first time.(zone 10a in Florida) Slightly worried about black spot and every thing else that comes with subtropical humidity & high temps. I'm sure I'm going to need a spray routine of sorts. I'll be watching what you do closely 👀
@Brian Moody Brian, I'm in humid North Texas. You didn't ask for advice, but I have some thoughts for you, if you're interested:
#1 Know what rose rosette is, and be ruthless if you see it. Also know that new roses from the nursery can come in with it!! Jason has a video about it.
#2 Air circulation and early morning sun are your friends. Plant at a distance to allow breathing room between the mature plants. I was shocked when 3 Belinda's Dream planted 6' apart grew into a solid wall after just 3 years!
#3 The value of naturally disease resistant varieties CANNOT be over-emphasized!! I grew BD before it was tagged an "Earth-Kind" variety, so I was surprised when it was awarded that status. It gets powdery mildew and black spot every year, but at least those don't kill it, even without spraying.
I'm experimenting with Kourdes roses for alleged disease resistance. I can already tell you, the spider mites love them some Kourdes roses, lol.
#4 I have learned the value of diversity. I would recommend NOT having a hedge of one variety; if there's a problem, you could lose your whole hedge (or, it could just be ugly). Depending on the variety you're using, I would plant no more than 6-8 roses in that long of a space. The new roses I just bought say they are 3' wide at maturity. I'm planting them 5' apart, and in groups of 3 of one variety.
Good luck. Sorry to jump in, unasked. Have been growing roses in Cottage gardens, mixed perennial beds, hedges (no more!) and as specimens for over 35 years.
Mistakes have been made, lol, and I'm not as willing to accommodate high-maintenance divas as I once was!!
@@demesrvl6761 Thank you so much for the advice! They are all David Austin(mixed varieties) and rated for my zone. I have to do this hedge. It has been on my mind for so long & I am prepared to fail lol.
As always, interesting and practical, thank you! I’ll definitely try this on my artichoke seedlings
I didn't know you can spray in the winter. Great information as I have both black spit and powers mildew. We have wineries in South Jersey so I will look for the smaller quantities trick. I only have three rose bushes. Thanks again Jason!
I was just about to use a need oil orchard spray. This sound even better. Thank you
Try mixing wood ash with water while bubbling air into it. Makes natural potassium bicarbonate which is a pretty good fungicide. Use it on putting greens from time to time on the lower mainland.
Thanks,
Yes, you are right ! Never heard of that product ! See, I even forgot the name..haha . 😂🤣
I am glad I don't get powdery mildew in FL but good to learn something new everytime I watch your video.
I love your sprayer !
Thanks - I'm pretty happy with it. It only runs the motor when I press the trigger, so at least there's not continual pump noise.
Thank you, Jason. Think I'll try that this year.
Excellent stuff. I'm glad you stick to published studies.
I use lacto bacteria sprays that I cultured myself and it's been working wonders with regards to fungal infections on my plants, I wonder if there are studies about that but I can see how it's harder to do a paper on it (diy lacto culture most likely vary dramatically based on number of live cultures and species diversity).
I will do a trial with potassium salts and chidosan this year, I think.
Thanks. A great video for winter thinking
Jason: Good input. One thing... I'd be surprised if you're getting a uniform solution without better agitation. I suggest a paint stirring blade on a cordless drill. This would best be done in a 5 gallon pail, then poured into the tank. Both ingredients may be soluble, but not instantaneously. A word to the wise. ron
Thanks Ron.
Best wishes for 2022! Thanks for all the info you share with us.
Very much my pleasure.
I’ve just started growing roses (Uk based zone 8 ) . Most of them are bare rooted and I believe it’s a good period to give them now a healthy start for spring . Searching on google after chitosan , I’ve only found it as food supplement. Which I’m assuming is the same as the one you use in your video . Would you consider this mix better fungicide as sulphur by itself ? Great educational videos , thank you !
So long as it's the water soluble type - should be the same as in food prep or sold as a wine-making supply. I haven't seen anything about it combined with sulfur - but rather with potassium sorbate or potassium bicarbonate.
Thanks for this Jason! Does this replace lime sulphur dormant spray?
I still use lime sulphur in winter as well on truly dormant plants, but this bicarbonate spray can be used during active growth
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thanks! I learn so much from you. I live in Nanaimo. :)
Chitin is a good source of fiber for the human gut. The supplement is called chitosan. I didn't know it's a fungicid. It is the preferred food of Bifidobacterium breve, which produces lactic acid, which kills anaerobe bacteria in the gut.
Thanks Cristina. I'd seen it sold in capsule form too, but I wasn't sure what it was supposed to do as a supplement.
That’s interesting information, and from the man who taught me how to eliminate my ant problem! As a winemaker I already have the potassium bicarbonate. Last season I sprayed my grapes and garden with white oil made from canola, I wonder if the potassium bicarbonate would be a good addition to my white oil spray.
Thanks - and I'm not so sure about the combination. I've seen mixes with a little bit of oil and bicarb, but I'd be really careful with the rates and testing so that you don't cause burn on the foliage.
Precious information, thank you! Please let me know how frequent can I apply this solution?
Should be no problem to do every couple of weeks if needed.
Thank you! Should I remove remaining leaves after a few applications? You mentioned in this video that you would eventually defoliate your roses…
Hi Jason, As always, another informative video. I'm wondering if this recipe would be effective on rust which I've recently discovered on my 20+ year old Abraham Darby? I'll be removing and destroying the infected leaves later today but wonder if you have any other suggestions on treating rust? Many thanks!
I haven't tested it on rust (as it's not a serious threat in my climate) but it's fairly general purpose on fungal diseases so far as I read in the literature.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you for your quick response...I'll give it a try.
I for one was so happy to learn there was organic environmentally friendly ways to fight black spot! Have you looked in to Dr Earths natural organic fungicide? It seems to have lots of interesting natural ingredients! Also Are you going to be spraying copper this winter as well?
I may do Bordeaux mix on the stock roses (because it sticks so nicely!) but not for the greenhouse plants this time.
Thanks Jason, your info is alwaysw spot on and very helpful. :)
Hi Jason I love your videos! Please can you tell me the g/l for potassium sorbate?
I found it in the study - 2g/l for anyone else wondering.
Brilliant Jason! Really like that spray system, too. Will this do for Codling moth!? I'm down here in southern Australia & I can't believe I lost all my apples to this pest (we picked all the affected fruit, so the risk of reinfestation is probably over, nothing left for them to eat - other than my quinces...) - I've never had a problem before, & to be honest I was ignorant of them being a problem with fruit here - I now know better - This spring/summer seems especially bad for black spot, whatever eats rose leaves (ants or bees?) & even rust, will this 'spray' help those & when are the best times to use it - obviously not on a hot summer's day? Whether it be roses or fruit trees? Thanks a bunch.
No, I don't think this would do anything for codling moth or other insects - it's more a fungicide.
You are correct, sir. "Spray" is, in fact, not a four-lettered word.
🤣
lime sulfur is a cornerstone "organic" spray but it's been delisted for home use in the US for some reason. can still be found pretty easily. use PPE while applying it (eyes especially) but once applied it's one of the most benign things out there as far as the environment and eating. is it allowed for home use in canada?
Thanks Michael - it's still available in Canada, but bureaucrats here seems to randomly target some remedies (like Borax for instance) for review, so you can never be sure what they'll go after next.
The aversion to sprays and the like never made a ton of sense to me. It's especially baffling when the chemical(s) used are things found in nature - e.g. potassium bicarbonate.
In every single plant across the world, potassium ions are present throughout plant tissue in many roles, and bicarbonate ions are also present in several processes such as photosynthesis or nutrient uptake - to uptake negatively-charged nutrients like nitrate (NO3-) or various forms of phosphorus (e.g. HPO4-) the root cells basically swap a bicarbonate ion (HCO3-) for one of those ions to maintain the electrical balance of the plant. Once your potassium bicarbonate is dissolved into water, it breaks up into potassium ions and bicarbonate ions anyway, and there is literally no way to differentiate "sprayed" potassium/bicarbonate ions from those found in the plant or in the soil. Ditto for chitosan, which can be produced when a plant tries to break down chitin found in fungal cell walls and in insect exoskeletons through chitinases.
If something is already present in, or synthesised by the plant anyway, it's extremely unlikely that a plant will become hazardous in some way if you apply a bit more of the thing. This applies to things like potassium bicarbonate, chitosan, acetylsalicylic acid (aka aspirin), the various plant growth regulators present in kelp, or even molasses (which are basically purified sugarcane!). I'm even more baffled when someone ridicules sprays but then advocates for a "natural" way of applying the same chemical in concentrated form to the soil. I'm willing to bet that that same customer would have no problems if they were told instead that the apple tree was grown in soil amended with neem cake and kelp meal.
Do you have a spray schedule time-wise? Or did I miss that part?
I haven't established a schedule for the season - and this was just a one-off spray to follow up on damage from the cold snap. In the main season I expect to rotate through this formula, the sulfur burner, and maybe a potassium sorbate/chitosan mix every 7-10 days or as need to keep the mildew off through the selling season.
Thank you Jason. ❄️💚🙃
Thanks Jason. always informative. can i try only sod bicarbonate and at what dose ( g/litre)? thanks
Hi Mohamed. I don't recommend the sodium bicarbonate as it can be quite damaging to the leaves.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm many thanks. much appreciated
Could someone tell me how to get the very large print off of the video. There is a printed version of what Jason is saying but its so large I can't see his picture or what he's holding. Thx.
@Wind Dancer it could be that Closed Captioning was turning on. On the screen, look for an icon that looks like a box with CC inside the box. If you don't see the icon, look for an icon of three small "dots" in a column (or row, there doesn't seem to be much universality to this). Click on the dots and look for the CC icon, or sometimes it just says Close Captioning, Good luck!!
❤yup....organic is the green way😊
And now I am going to try...
Thanks for an excellent tip! I often goes to your videos when I seek answers.
I have a question about cuttings. I’ve been working in a empty little house (painting) and there was an old overgrown garden there, the main building is from 1830, the garden of course younger but still old. The owners had made a beautiful big garden with trees, a pound, orchards, flower beds and LOTS of roses.
The island I live on is famous for its limestone and roses with mild climate for Sweden, hardly any snow and maybe 10-14 nights with temperature below zero Celsius a year. The plants here have already started to push some new growth.
So, with owners ok I took a whole bunch of rose cuttings my last day at work there (yesterday), mostly semi hard, and I’ve got growing hormones, but I’m not sure where to put them?
Only in pots in the shadow or I a plastic bin as humidity dome?
@Asa Liden Jason has several really good videos about growing from cuttings and also a video of what could go wrong. I suggest binge-watching them this weekend, lol.
I searched "Frazer Valley cuttings" and found these two, but there are so many more!!
ua-cam.com/video/211r10Jj_OY/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/fkL-KHQvk8Y/v-deo.html
Jason- in your free time (Ha!!), It would be wonderful if you would create a playlist of your many videos about propagation!! ...I'm just full of suggestions this morning, lol
Because you're not dealing with intense sun this time of year, I'd use a humidity dome in a relatively bright location. If you had some hot direct sun, it might heat up too much, but I'd also have some vent holes in the plastic bin (or leave a little gap underneath to allow some air to escape.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thank you! 🙏🏼
Thanks @DeMe Srvl here's my propagation playlist: ua-cam.com/video/KTfJ-f2NQ5c/v-deo.html
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm yay! Thank you! Didn't see it on the playlists page...
I just received my chitosan all the way from Merry ole England! Is it too late to spray on my roses. They have had a hard time with black spot
Nope, I think your timing should be fine.
Thank you. May I ask are Spittlebugs bad bugs. If they are bad how would you treat them. What's the formula you used to repel aphids. Again thank you
Spittle bugs are not a serious threat
Thanks Jason! I want to try this. Can you give an idea for a regular spray bottle amounts needed like equal parts etc? Also would this mixture harm other beneficial insects like ladybugs etc?
I give the rough tsp/gallon equivalents at 6:44 It's less aexact than g/L but might do okay for smaller batches. It should be okay for beneficials.
Thank you for such a terrifically informative and helpful video. Now please allow me to return the favor…
I’m pretty sure you’re mispronouncing “Chitosan”
Chitin is a fibrous substance consisting of polysaccharides and forming the major constituent in the exoskeleton of arthropods and the cell walls of fungi. The correct pronunciation of “chitin” is: KY-TIN which leads me the believe the product ‘Chitosan’ is actually correctly pronounced similarly… KY-TOW-SAN 👍
Neem oil isn't deemed safe for consumables in Canada as far as Im aware. I couldn't find it sold in Canada and that was the reason why I found. I live in/am from the same area you are so
not sure who is right here but I say Chitosan and Surfacant very differently xD
Bureaucracy is going to do what it does, but it's of course perplexing to me that in the US Neem is approved for use as a pesticide, and is even by the certifying bodies for Organic production. Here in Canada, you could say it wasn't "deemed safe" but if you listed to the interviews with health Canada, it's probably more precise to say that it hasn't been "deemed" anything at all, since they haven't initiated any studies - and probably won't unless someone wants to pay the fees for reports and committees and so on. I, of course, wasn't basing my thoughts about the orchardist's spray concoction on anything regulatory at the time - and have only since seen that it's a pretty common part of the organic orchard rotations in the US.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm oh how I wish that I were the one with the extra pocket change to lobby Health Canada
I believe you can get neem oil in health food stores in Canada.
Studies conducted in India showed active ingredient in need is responsible for shrinking the testes in insects... Possible estrogenic effects affect humans?
pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8226307/
please help. My new DA rose has this waxy scaly stuff on one of the stem. This is all new growth, not a wax coated plant from big box store. Direct purchase from DA USA, i wish I could send a photo. Remedy? Insectisidal soap?
Do a google search for scale insects on roses and if that's you're problem then horticultural oil is the usual recommendation.
Hi there, can you use potassium bicarbonate mixed with surfactant every week as a preventative or curative way ? ( or could it burn, kill the plant or damage soil ), please ?
And can I use your mix ( Chitosan + potassium bicarbonate every week ?
Many thanks 😊
I wouldn't hesitate to use this every week or two - just watch for any burning or reaction on the leaves.
Thank for replying. So every week for both potassium alone and potassium mixed with chitosan ?
Sorry for bothering you…
Well another approach might be to alternate with a sulfur treatment.
Do you still use this mixture? I sprayed my roses with deer spray by bobbex and the weak ones (rose bushes) got black spot:/
Deer ate half of my roses (new growth) I can’t have a fence here and not sure what else to do
Neem oil or this mixture?
Also how often do you use this to treat disease?
Yes, it's one of my go-to mixes (alternating with sulfur). Neem hasn't had much activity for me. Depending on disease pressure I might go every 3rd week during the spring as a preventive.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm it’s good to know thank you so much for taking the time to respond. I appreciate it
A product called Liquid Fence has worked (so far, any way) for me. Works for rabbits as well. If one is not willing to enclose the entire garden (which I am not, although I enclose some plants, like some roses), you have to try a lot of different strategies and keep changing things up. Last year the rabbits were worse than the deer.
Jason what can I use on strawberry plants (only 3) I rooted in water (because I wanted to get them off the mother plant before the freeze ,didn't have enough time to root in patch and wanted to keep them for spring) I'm growing inside but it looks like they may have spider mites. Like barely visible kinda webby looking things on leaves and killed my 4th plant. It got dry and crusty. But I have them with all my succulents and other plants under my grow lights ( on my plant growing shelves, lack of better words at the moment) so is it spider mites? I don't see any insects anywhere but are they visible?
I can see them with my naked eye, but some people require magnification. They're not generally a problem in cooler weather, but may still be the problem if growing inside.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm it appears from everything I've looked at, they are spider mites. I ordered some neen oil to use but won't arrive until a few days to a week, our stores don't carry it around here right now because it's not the growing season? So is there something like alcohol or backing soda, ETCETERA I can use temporary, to stop the damage, until I get the neem oil?
You can try rubbing alcohol (diluted to 25% of the solution) and use it with a cloth or paper towel to carefully wipe down the upper and lower surfaces of leaves removing the webbing and most of the adult mites. You won't get everything (most likely) but it'll reduce severity in the meanwhile.
Thank you so Much!! I will do that now!
? i am dealing with anthracnose. is it possible with your solution ?
Yes, I read at least one study where potassium bicarbonate was helpful against anthracnose (in strawberry plants), so I think it's worth a try
I didn’t know I should be spraying now. Can I do this outdoors or just if I have a green house?
Thank you
Moreso because I have them in a greenhouse. I might do a Bordeaux application outdoors, but not the bicarb.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm so should I now take the leaves off the ones outside?(mine look like yours as I am in Surrey)
If it's practical at all to defoliate, I'd say yes. All those smutty old leaves are just carrying over spores and such.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm excellent I shall get on that with the break in the weather 👍🏻👍🏻
I will definitely be trying this thank you so much for sharing! Have you heard of Serenade Garden AGRSER32 it has Bacillus subtilis bacteria as the active ingredient and it’s a beneficial bacteria that has fungicide properties! I haven’t used it yet but it sounds so neat. It’s like when we take probiotics. 😁
Thanks Serena. I really like the concept of Bacillus subtilis - the distributor locally sells in a fairly large (expensive) size, so I haven't experimented with it personally.
Chitosan is used as a weight loss supplement because it binds fat and removes it from the system.
what you you use to control scales, black scales
Horticultural oil
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you Jason! I will try it on the Abutilon with varigated leaves. I bought Chitosan to try, but I probably should read up when is the best time to apply this fungicide. I am in the peak of summer in zone 10a. Should I need to wait when the temperatures are cooler?
I mean the Chitosan is to try, in my rose garden, not the Abutilon. Thanks for your videos, they are very informative and your visuals are excellent!
Will this method prevent worms and insects?
No, not from anything I've seen.
do you have an efficient fungicide to kill spidermites and white flies i have the biggest problem last year even i try neem oil, orange oil, dish soap but nothing stop them.
Wettable sulfur (or elemental sulfur in a burner) does a fairly good job n spider mites.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Could you please elaborate in how to use that? Thanks No idea in how to use it.
ua-cam.com/video/oQQbs9FIHwE/v-deo.html
@Lolitabonita to help you as you search for solutions:
"...cide" means "kill".
So, a fungicide kills fungus
Insecticide kills insects (and sometimes arthropods)
Herbicides kill plants (each herbicide kills different kinds of plants)
Pesticide is a generic term for anything you want to kill, which includes all the other "codes"
@@demesrvl6761 thank you so much for clarify the terms...I want something that is "safe" to use and try not to kill the good insects or other critters around my backyard.
Thank you. 👌
I'd like to use this.
It's actually kyto-san. Named after chitin. (kytin or kyt'n)
(Just informing)
Thanks. I should probably do a quick pronunciation check when I'm going to use a word I've only read and say it out loud!
I was reading that baking soda is sodium bicarbonate not potassium bicarbonate and baking soda has a lot of sodium which is bad for plant health and soil. Is there any truth to this?
Right - it's the potassium bicarbonate I'm recommending here.
Yikes!! I'm driving and can't watch!!
Ok, I'll listen while driving and watch later if I need to. Sounds like a good one!!
Oh, what am I saying? They're ALL good!
There is a study about people like the lady who was upset about spraying . It’s called the Dunning and Kruger effect. Search for it on UA-cam. We’re all guilty at one time or another…
Thanks, I'll check it out. It's always interesting to see "what's under the hood" of our reactions
👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
I completely got over the whole "organic" thing, which makes you drink the "cool aid" but doesnt represent the truth/reality. Evaluate every input on individual basis. Radioactivity etc are part of nature and nothing good about it, or too much copper, sulfur...natural or not. Truth is more complicated than "synthetic chemical bad". Thanks for sharing. Will have a look at the chitozan.
You bet. It makes no sense to draw an arbitrary line between "natural" and "chemical" (since everything in nature is also a chemical!). I'm obviously wary of spraying anything with a long label of hazards or PPE requirements, but definitely something you need to assess on each input.
Everything is easier in metric. 😄
Pronounced kytosan. The H is silent. Just sayin'.