2017 Chevy Cruz Brakes and Rotors Replacement
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- This video shows me replacing the brakes and rotors on a 2017 Chevy Cruz. I am not a mechanic. I am just a guy who likes to do simple repairs on my cars. Hopefully, you can learn from my mistakes and also learn about how to do this job.
I did strip the T30 Torx screw on the passenger side and snapped off the head on the same screw on the driver's side wheel. However, I finished the maintenance and the brakes worked great. Those screws are helpful but not required.
Tools needed
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* Floor jack and jack stands
* Breaker bars
* 3/4" socket for lug nuts
* 13/16" socket for caliper bolts
* 13/16" wrench
* 14mm socket for brake housing bolts
* T30 torque driver
* Bungie cord
* C-clamp to compress cylinder
* Optional vice grips
* Optional flat head screw driver
* Optional wire brushes
* Optional hammer
Supplies
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* Brakleen
* Silicon lubricant
* Brake grease
* Blue Locktite for bolts
This is a great everyman type of repair. Not all of us backyard DIYs have all the Pro tools. A great easy to follow video!
Thank you very much for making this video. I am a retired nurse (obviously a senior citizen, and female) and I will be doing my first brake job on my Chevy Cruze 2017 in a few days. You gave me the confidence. I did a brake fluid flush which all my neighbors told me was "too difficult to do" but after watching a few YT videos, I did it successfully. The car was running so much better than before I did it. Thanks again.
Quote - "Good luck to the next guy that has to get this off." 🤣🤣🤣
Thanks for the video. I did want to see you reinstall those springs. Those are important to hold the pads in place so they don't move or jiggle around in the housing.
Also, it's wise to put the silicone on the back side of the pads so they don't squeek.
You should always use permatex anti seize on the back side of the rotor so rust can't bond the rotor and hub together. They can rust so bad, a sledge hammer won't remove it. *Tips below on such removal.
Last comment... With that rotor screw, if your rotor has rusted solid to the axle hub, you can inster a longer bolt into that screw hole and keep bolting it down so it puts force against the axle hub to pop free the rusted on rotor. If needed, for additional pulling power to remove a severely rusted rotor off the hub, use a "Jaw Puller". I've had to use it on one of my vehicles one time. The rotor was rusted to the hub so bad, that when it finally freed, it sounded like a mini explosion from all the force needed to pull it off. It was is insane!
Anyway, thanks again for the vid and I hope those few tips help others out there. GL!👍
Take the fluid resevoir cap off before pressing caliper piston .
It is a great demo, but I have confirmed that the caliper housing bolt is a 21mm and not 13/16. 21 mm fits like a glove and the bolts free up easy.
Great video! Very helpful that you started with the tools needed. Thanks!!!
I'd recommend using grease on the sliders (pins) instead of silicone spray. Grease will last longer and keep the pins from ceasing if any water or dirt was to get past the boots. You shouldn't use as much grease on the brake pad clips as it can heat up and get on the pads and rotors, greatly affecting your stopping power. Putting a bit of grease on the wheel hub where the hub protrudes through the rotor isn't a bad idea either. Makes removing the rotor easier later. One last thing, all of your bolts should be metric. You shouldn't be using standard sockets or wrenches. You will round the bolt heads and cause yourself a lot of grief.
Good work, keep it up!
Thank you for the video. It gives me some idea of what to prepare for when I change out the brakes on my car. As far as that rotor screw, I've looked into it out of curiosity and just in case I find myself in the same situation when I do this myself, and everything I find says just what you originally said which is that it is purely for assembly line purposes and is not required after the lug nuts are in place. I don't know. I suppose better safe than sorry and if it's usable, I'll put it right back in place.
How about the spring wire clips.I didn't see you replace them.They were on the top and bottom of the brake pad housing
Thank you I just watched this step by step and worked perfectly!! Thx a lot! Saved me a lot of money from taking it to mechanic
If all goes well with the replacement parts to check if your caliper isn't seized up as it's jacked up put it in neutral the wheel should roll with resistance.
Yes, you didn’t reinstall the anti-rattle clips for the pads ? But nice job !!
Which way do I turn it to brake the bracket nuts on the front left side ???
"so maybe that screw is important" haha
That is not a 13/16 nut to get the caliper housing off. It is very close, but a 13/16 wrench only half fits on the bolt head. 7/8 is too big. It might be a 27/32 wrench. It might be a 21 mm wrench. It is not 13/16.
It is a 13/16 wrench. Just did it yesterday