I've tried a method similar to this 3 times now with no success. After a week to 2 weeks the leaves turn brown then fall off and rot. I have my third batch just past week 3 now and hardly a leaf left. Stems are brown and dieing. I've only seen a few out of the hundreds that have sprouted leaves and even fewer that have had any roots. The few that did the leaves and roots were just millimeters long. I don't know what I am doing wrong. They are kept inside 70-75F temperature. Humidity in the house is around 55%.in containers in indirect light. Lid does not have holes but is propped up slightly to allow a bit of air in. I have each in spagnum peat moss inside small cups. Any thoughts what I could be doing wrong?
here is a secret that this robot voice is not telling...when preparing the cuttings put them in water...wet the two ends and stick the end that goes in the medium on the water...prepare the medium...pea moss or sharp sand with perlite works very well about 50/50... ones the medium is prepared stick the cuttings and then place a plastic bottle with open neck or a plastic bag (watch for fungus)...water the medium but not over do it...cover the container and put the container under a shade...and wait...50 percent of the cuttings probably will take, but if only takes is a good thing. I just cut pieces of my myrthles and stick them in soil, water them regularly and if the take find if they don't i will try again...but what i explained above the chances are higher...oh...do not take cuttings that are too thin...those will never take...pencil size is optimal.
After many years of mixed success I finally found several things that can significantly improves outcomes. For media I use 50/50 mix of peat moss and pool filter sand that I thoroughly wet after filling the pots. Filter sand is coarse and drains well. I have the best luck rooting in 6 inch peat pots. I have less success with the 3 inch peat pots, zero luck with the pressed paper pots and none with plastic pots. I think the ability to "breathe" is a factor. My best rooting success is achieved with about pencil size cuttings taken in spring just before or just as the buds begin to open. The later in the year cuttings are taken the less success I have. By July when the bushes are flowering there is no point in trying. If you do take a spring cutting that has full grown leaves it is imperative to take scissors and cut off the tips of the leaves, leaving only about half the length. This seems to keep them from dying and stimulate the new growth. My "greenhouse" is the largest clear plastic tote I can find. I put about 1/2 inch of sand or aquarium gravel in the bottom to lift the pots up off the floor and cover the top with Saran Wrap taped down on the sides. This creates a 100% humidity environment. For light I lay a LED shop light across the tote which also provides a little extra heat which stimulates growth. The best temperature for rooting seems to be about 80 degrees. If the light doesn't provide enough heat I put a heating pad set on "low" under the tote. This is all very elaborate but I get about 2/3 - 3/4 of cutting to root with this system where before it was just random. Finally, there are some varieties that are just way harder to root than others. Natchez and Muskogee are very easy. William Toovey and Carolina Beauty are more difficult.
@@intheparlance I wet the rooting media thoroughly when putting the cutting in, and my "greenhouse" tote has about 1/4 inch of sand on the bottom that I moisten but do not wet to the point there is free water standing. With the system totally closed nothing dries out and no other water is needed until the cuttings root. After they form roots I gradually begin removing the saran wrap covering and allowing them to adjust to lower humidity.
Did you say rooting stem cuttings decreases the possibility of getting the same color bloom? Or did I misunderstand? There's a beautiful red crape myrtle that I'm dying to cut from.
Well explained sir.❤
Excellent, thank you very much for posting. (Also thank you for the calming music)
Awesome we have some we started from seeds
Love Crepe Myrtles so beautiful
Excellent.....the best of all viewed.👍
Thank you I've always tried like normal potting soil and it won't work good but now I'll just get some sand
Looks fairly easy, I'll try it, thanks
Very informative! I love the music. ❤
in the mid atlantic. you can just basically stick the stems in topsoil and they will root easily
When are they ok to plant in the ground in southern states?
Thanks 🎉😢😊
Why not use the suckers
Once they root, what's next? Can they go straight in the ground?
I think I will have to try again; my cutting are much thinner than pencils.
I've tried a method similar to this 3 times now with no success. After a week to 2 weeks the leaves turn brown then fall off and rot. I have my third batch just past week 3 now and hardly a leaf left. Stems are brown and dieing. I've only seen a few out of the hundreds that have sprouted leaves and even fewer that have had any roots. The few that did the leaves and roots were just millimeters long. I don't know what I am doing wrong. They are kept inside 70-75F temperature. Humidity in the house is around 55%.in containers in indirect light. Lid does not have holes but is propped up slightly to allow a bit of air in. I have each in spagnum peat moss inside small cups. Any thoughts what I could be doing wrong?
here is a secret that this robot voice is not telling...when preparing the cuttings put them in water...wet the two ends and stick the end that goes in the medium on the water...prepare the medium...pea moss or sharp sand with perlite works very well about 50/50... ones the medium is prepared stick the cuttings and then place a plastic bottle with open neck or a plastic bag (watch for fungus)...water the medium but not over do it...cover the container and put the container under a shade...and wait...50 percent of the cuttings probably will take, but if only takes is a good thing. I just cut pieces of my myrthles and stick them in soil, water them regularly and if the take find if they don't i will try again...but what i explained above the chances are higher...oh...do not take cuttings that are too thin...those will never take...pencil size is optimal.
After many years of mixed success I finally found several things that can significantly improves outcomes. For media I use 50/50 mix of peat moss and pool filter sand that I thoroughly wet after filling the pots. Filter sand is coarse and drains well. I have the best luck rooting in 6 inch peat pots. I have less success with the 3 inch peat pots, zero luck with the pressed paper pots and none with plastic pots. I think the ability to "breathe" is a factor. My best rooting success is achieved with about pencil size cuttings taken in spring just before or just as the buds begin to open. The later in the year cuttings are taken the less success I have. By July when the bushes are flowering there is no point in trying. If you do take a spring cutting that has full grown leaves it is imperative to take scissors and cut off the tips of the leaves, leaving only about half the length. This seems to keep them from dying and stimulate the new growth. My "greenhouse" is the largest clear plastic tote I can find. I put about 1/2 inch of sand or aquarium gravel in the bottom to lift the pots up off the floor and cover the top with Saran Wrap taped down on the sides. This creates a 100% humidity environment. For light I lay a LED shop light across the tote which also provides a little extra heat which stimulates growth. The best temperature for rooting seems to be about 80 degrees. If the light doesn't provide enough heat I put a heating pad set on "low" under the tote.
This is all very elaborate but I get about 2/3 - 3/4 of cutting to root with this system where before it was just random. Finally, there are some varieties that are just way harder to root than others. Natchez and Muskogee are very easy. William Toovey and Carolina Beauty are more difficult.
@@RodSnocking350 How often do you water the cuttings?
@@intheparlance I wet the rooting media thoroughly when putting the cutting in, and my "greenhouse" tote has about 1/4 inch of sand on the bottom that I moisten but do not wet to the point there is free water standing. With the system totally closed nothing dries out and no other water is needed until the cuttings root. After they form roots I gradually begin removing the saran wrap covering and allowing them to adjust to lower humidity.
@@RodSnocking350 Do you not aerate the cuttings? How deep do you place the cuttings and how much distance do you keep?
Thanks for the info.
Did you say rooting stem cuttings decreases the possibility of getting the same color bloom? Or did I misunderstand? There's a beautiful red crape myrtle that I'm dying to cut from.
No, didn't meant that. Thanks.
سلام استاد خسته نباشی سرو طلایی لاوسون قلمه زدم خراب شد یا بوسیده شد راهنمایی کنی ممنون میشم
Where did you get your mesh bags
We were able to get different sizes of mesh bags online, both Amazon or EBay.
AND HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE FOR THEM TO ROOT.
07:16 ► "...these cuttings will grow roots in about 3 to 6 weeks, depending on temperature and the amount of indirect light they get"
Need a follow up please.
What is the reason for leaving the leaves on the stems?
Thank you very valuable information
They root in water
Can I just use new growth cuttings and stick in cup of water and then transfer over to soil. Didn't know could do right in water.
Does it really work? Not for me..
@@NovaUnicorn22 Have you tried?
?
?? 👈
Do you always talk to people like they'e four years old?
I’m pretty sure this gentleman has a voice issue. He may have had surgery or serious vocal cord damage, as I do.
Your comment is unjust. He speaks clearly and can be understood also by no English native speakers
Are you 4by old? You write pretty well..
tts IS CRINGE