Dreamland to me. I learn to surf out on this stretch of reefs way back in 71 . 8 hrs a day, not even coming in till my mom would pick me up . Up till 90 , it was my life. Commitments took me back to my Indian Reservation in New Mexico. I haven’t seen the ocean in 32 years. One more time before I die , I’m getting back in shape and will return to my first love. Just one more time ….
Probably shared a few waves with you brah. I learned at Waianae, but the kids I hung out with were total beach rats and surfed all over ( where we surfed mostly depended on where one of us could talk our folks into driving all us beach rats to..lol). When I lived on Schofield we used to grab our boards and ride our bikes thru the pineapple fields to the north shore to surf. Left in the late 70's. Best times of my life, only memories now. Like you I want to go back and have one last shot at it. I'm all busted up but hey, ya only live once yeah?
Are you kidding me.......Your Back.....I was just looking at some of your vidioes from a year and 1 and 1/2 years ago.. the other day .you are the best....aloha from seattle. Keep making them please.
What's this Dan? You've always made the best films of Town. This is a shaky mess. Where's the epic 3's or Outside Publics? This looks like a Japanese tourist vacation movie.
When it's this big (rare) a bunch of little spots on the reef you never knew existed pop up and go off. Waikiki is serious fun when it's big, surfed there for years, great memories.
This doesn’t look like a big south swell as I remember them. It looks like a swell generated from a storm relatively close by, hence the waves are all over the place and not coming in clean sets. Big south swells from the southern ocean by NZ or Australia travel a long distance and arrive in Waikiki as organised sets of wave with lulls between. Probably why there’s hardly anyone riding them…they’re not breaking on the normal reefs.
I believe it was in 1969 when the monster waves came in. Greg Noll and just a couple of guys went out, Greg Noll was the last man standing, these waves look like mice nuts compared to what he rode that day. RIP the greatest surfer ever.
it would've been really cool to see someone get a great ride in this video? sadly it looks like a whole bunch of wiggly jiggly water, whitewash, fatness, kids, softops...wasn't anyone getting any at queen's??
Read a surfing book (written in late '50s?) that had him starting way outside of Castle's Surf (off the Natatorium), going left and clearing the reef at Public's ("Public Baths", at the time), then Cunha's (rocks at low tide) to touch sand at the beach. Book called it a mile. Break had to be farther out than I've ever seen to clear all those reefs with a huge, heavy wooden board. Well, he was the Duke! This swell is big but uneven. He'd have needed clean walls, not all the sections breaking here. Must've been beautiful that day.
@@tsee9013 My longest ride ever was from Public's to the sand at Kuhio Beach, next to The Wall. 6'+ and Cunha's rocks were just showing, but I started from far left enough to skirt them instead of going over, high on the wave (nuts!). Maybe 3/10 mile on a body board. Thought about Duke and how this was the easy part, then hit the showers.
That just looks like a good day if that’s Waikiki. Growing up, I remember the waves being like this. But this one choppy. We use to slide on the wall and get knocked off. That was good fun. Try get back up on the wall again. Lol
I wonder if the north shore boys showed up for these waves?? My surfing days are over unfortunately, but I know a epic wave when I see one! Nothing personal! Have fun wherever you Surf!!
Dreamland to me. I learn to surf out on this stretch of reefs way back in 71 . 8 hrs a day, not even coming in till my mom would pick me up . Up till 90 , it was my life. Commitments took me back to my Indian Reservation in New Mexico. I haven’t seen the ocean in 32 years. One more time before I die , I’m getting back in shape and will return to my first love. Just one more time ….
Would love to come and surf with you if you will be visiting here in CA
I probably surfed with you, was out every day after school, till dark.
When u said up til 90...i was thinking u were 90 years old....then i mae it mKe sense 😆 🤣
Come back bro! 🤙🏾
Probably shared a few waves with you brah. I learned at Waianae, but the kids I hung out with were total beach rats and surfed all over ( where we surfed mostly depended on where one of us could talk our folks into driving all us beach rats to..lol). When I lived on Schofield we used to grab our boards and ride our bikes thru the pineapple fields to the north shore to surf. Left in the late 70's. Best times of my life, only memories now. Like you I want to go back and have one last shot at it. I'm all busted up but hey, ya only live once yeah?
Are you kidding me.......Your Back.....I was just looking at some of your vidioes from a year and 1 and 1/2 years ago.. the other day .you are the best....aloha from seattle. Keep making them please.
What's this Dan? You've always made the best films of Town. This is a shaky mess. Where's the epic 3's or Outside Publics? This looks like a Japanese tourist vacation movie.
You back Dan! So nice to see that :)
When it's this big (rare) a bunch of little spots on the reef you never knew existed pop up and go off. Waikiki is serious fun when it's big, surfed there for years, great memories.
We had a spot over by Koko Head called blue moon's. And Turtles, but that one would close out across the channel.
Is it me or does all waves just look choppy. Media called this once in life time southern swell. I remembered hurricane swells looking nicer
Check Maui look epic as f$#k.
Yeah this wave is not what you should judge the swell by....
I was out there yesterday. It was the best I've seen it. Epic
This doesn’t look like a big south swell as I remember them. It looks like a swell generated from a storm relatively close by, hence the waves are all over the place and not coming in clean sets. Big south swells from the southern ocean by NZ or Australia travel a long distance and arrive in Waikiki as organised sets of wave with lulls between. Probably why there’s hardly anyone riding them…they’re not breaking on the normal reefs.
great sound quality! Feels like I'm actually there!
Nice to see a video from you, Dan!
I went out biggest south swell I’ve seen since last code red at teaphuoo
Summer 2016?
I believe it was in 1969 when the monster waves came in. Greg Noll and just a couple of guys went out, Greg Noll was the last man standing, these waves look like mice nuts compared to what he rode that day. RIP the greatest surfer ever.
I think you’re thinking of the North Shore or the West shore (Makaha) where he rode monster waves…this is in Waikiki on the South Shore.
Shut up boomer. Greg would be a kook by today's standards.
Great vid thanks👊👍🤟
it would've been really cool to see someone get a great ride in this video? sadly it looks like a whole bunch of wiggly jiggly water, whitewash, fatness, kids, softops...wasn't anyone getting any at queen's??
Nor does, that area -- have that reef! In the middle.
The colour of that water. Thank you kindly for posting this video. I wish it was an hour long. 😊
Thanks Dan , you have been missed ! 🤙🙏
This is a historic day at the south shore 🤙🤙 Love the video!
These folks are brave..very brave and I'm from Hawaii.
Wow surfs up man!
Good to see these videos again!
Thanks
Didn't the Duke ride a big southern swell from Diamond Head to Waikiki beach?
Not quite from Diamond head . But yes he rode I believe over a mile
Read a surfing book (written in late '50s?) that had him starting way outside of Castle's Surf (off the Natatorium), going left and clearing the reef at Public's ("Public Baths", at the time), then Cunha's (rocks at low tide) to touch sand at the beach. Book called it a mile.
Break had to be farther out than I've ever seen to clear all those reefs with a huge, heavy wooden board. Well, he was the Duke! This swell is big but uneven. He'd have needed clean walls, not all the sections breaking here. Must've been beautiful that day.
@@gemanscombe4985 I daydreamed about that story when I was a kid. Incredible
@@tsee9013 My longest ride ever was from Public's to the sand at Kuhio Beach, next to The Wall. 6'+ and Cunha's rocks were just showing, but I started from far left enough to skirt them instead of going over, high on the wave (nuts!). Maybe 3/10 mile on a body board. Thought about Duke and how this was the easy part, then hit the showers.
That’s scary. I would NOT be out there AT ALL
That just looks like a good day if that’s Waikiki. Growing up, I remember the waves being like this. But this one choppy. We use to slide on the wall and get knocked off. That was good fun. Try get back up on the wall again. Lol
Where’s the epic 12’ to 16’ swells that the local news was reporting about??? 🤡
Look at Maalaea videos
It was happening while you were asleep at 3 in the morning.
I wonder if the north shore boys showed up for these waves?? My surfing days are over unfortunately, but I know a epic wave when I see one! Nothing personal! Have fun wherever you Surf!!
Dan we love your vid's!👍🤩👍
Yay! Dan’s back 😁
Spend some time I loved it love to go back
Love to go back are so beautiful man
big swell after another , but not much speed ,really slow developing ...interesting.
Those waves are making me dizzy just watching them. I hope all came back to shore safely!
Tide not ideal, the inside wasn't happening with the double ups.
Welcome back, Dan! 🙋
a dream! I hope it happens again in 2nd half of August when I am back !
Wow surfs up man!
Good to see these videos again!
Thanks
That's some angry waters! Almost tsunami like.
ตามมา...เอฟซี ได้ยืนท่านอน...แน่นอน
Wow that’s crazy!! Thanks for posting.
Hello beautiful
Must be the north and south poles are flipping.
Aloha, Dan, good to see you posting another video!
Aloha
went there back 15 years ago with my dad need to go again.
Dan is back!!!
How far did Duke ride?
Outer reef Waikiki lol
Holy shitttttt never seen waves like this!!! Whats causing them?? Is it storm season???
3 days after storm in fiji
Too many people, cool video though👍
U back?, lol
Dan, that continuous pan is unreal! Wow!
Wow.
Wow never saw waves like that at Waikiki
Amazing footage
Look’s bumpy
Looks fun to me.
Where’s Jamie O’Brien???