Do you need a Sable Brush - Miniature Painting Mythbusting S01 E06
Вставка
- Опубліковано 8 лют 2025
- Time for more miniature painting mythbusting. This week, we turn to the controversial topic of sable brushes. Do you need one to be a good painter? Is it the only brush you should use? We break down brushes and give our take on the eternal brush question.
Merch Store: teespring.com/...
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
Instagram: VincentVenturella
Email: WarhammerWeeklyQuestions@gmail.com
Take a Class with Vince: ckstudios.bigc...
RPG Podcast: podcasts.apple...
Vince really wanted to say "Why don't you go first, and then I tell you why you are wrong, respectfully." lol
that's totally fine, I gladly ran into this blade, because I am a proper Sable Nazi, just because of my painting style :)
@@trovarion A true Trovarian only run into swords with impeccable points, and if there's something we can count on Vince for, it's that. :D
All according to plan... ;)
@@VinceVenturella Vince is Tzeentch confirmed.
Here we gooooooooo
What would a man be willing to give for ultimate control?
@@jacktharipskawitz not sure what you are refering to.
@@trovarion just poking fun m8 :)
This was a fun one brother. :)
I love how so many of us are ready to spend so much money on cool minis but when it comes to spending on even a few decent brushes, we get all weird about it, ha ha.
I've only painted a few minis myself, and despite owning a few sable brushes that I am happy to use for watercolor, I find myself stretching my synthetics beyond what is probably reasonable, where if I started with a sabel an hour or two earlier in the process, I might find that that would benefit my end result.
Fortunately I have time to learn that balance and I enjoy the process of finding my own path.
This great discussion from you two master painters reminds me why I keep rewatching that old Uncle Atom video where he asks pro painters six questions and everyone has wildly different answers and they are all right and the only thing they basically agree on is that there are no real cheat codes in the game of art.
Thank you both!
Glad you enjoyed it. :)
i use the sam lenz method, buy plenty of cheap brushes and just go to town with them, i just did a big clean up of all the crappy ones i had and even (GHASP) trimmed the hairs of my cheap brushes and trew away like 6 or seven ones (kept one that the wodden part plit in half so i just found i have a half brush). i might buy ONE good one one day to get the feel of how it behaves, but for now i use cheap synthetics until they die (or i give them up for my alcool based paints that kills brushes)
A great video. I use the same advice as I do when people ask how much should I spend on an airbrush and that is this "Once you have enough experience, you will know when its the tool or your skill that is holding you back. If you haven't had that moment yet, you don't need the expensive tool, keep working on technique."
Well said!
My wife bought me a set of 4 sable brushes for my birthday (0,1,2,3). They are very nice to paint with for sure but I haven't been using them for base boating and fast painting. Great for glazing and edge highlights and detail work. Love how much moisture they hold.
Exactly what I would do. :)
Nice one! I mostly use a DaVinci Maestro series 10 size 2, I find very sharp and versatile! I tried a larger size once but the tip just wasn't as sharp and it got hard to control sometimes. I also have a selection of garbage brushes to destroy with washes, contrast and roughly applied metallics. Keep doing these, I feel like I've learned so much from listening to both of you guys, I even tried painting some NNM the other day as a first! (Spoilers: it did not go well, but I learned a lot!)
Awesome, always happy to help and glad to hear you're pushing it. :)
One thing you don't bring up is the horrendous treatment of animals in the sable brush industry. Many of these animals are trapped in painful steel-jaw traps and snares. Some animals chew their leg off to escape these traps suffering and dying later on. Trappers keep these animals in the worst possible conditions and when it's time to get the fur they gas or beat them to death. Whatever difference you think a sable brush grants you over a synthetic is not worth the suffering and death of a living being. Abteilung and Trekell both make top notch synthetic brushes that you should try out.
I will give those brushes a try.
Rewatched this series and it is still great!
Watching this and realizing I'm switching from a size 6 synthetic and size 2 Kolinsky sable. Also, yes, I've been taught the Roman Lappat method in person and his techniques work really well for speed painting and you absolutely don't need a kolinsky sable for blending the way he does it!
I
Exactly. :)
Another great one. Your commentary about your styles and how you get things to work for you are amazing
Thank you so much 😊
Something I don’t hear talked about much is the fact that a lot of us have to justify the expense of high end brushes in an already expensive hobby to the Jedi counsel (spouse). I’ve also noticed that brushes have become an obsession (for me at least) by themselves. Those blue handled cheap brushes Vince is holding up have served me pretty well.
I generally stay away from those kind of budgetary concerns, my feeling is youself and your partner will generally find the way to make an expense of $10-20 work when it's inimical to your hobby and enjoyment. :) - That being said, cheap synthetics can do a lot of work and certainly should. :)
I see a common idea somewhat echoed here, that it's either sable or garbage synthetic. Those are your options. However, there are tons of quality synthetic brushes out there that rival the properties of sable for cheaper. A good quality brush is important, but it's equally important to remember the breadth of the market for quality brushes and not be too narrow minded or think you have to get the "best" brush
No, I agree, I hope we didn't cut too closely to that. Generally, real hair brushes have different properties that are difficult for synthetic brushes to mimic. That doesn't mean better, just different depending on what you like.
@@VinceVenturella
You guys definitely didn't state this directly, but you didn't address the alternatives fully. "The right tool for the right job" is a perfectly solid premise for any hobby. However, I think its important for those new to the hobby to see the variety of tool options and hear those experienced talk about them. I know you guys can only speak about your experience, but it's such a big question when it comes to painting, the discussion deserves more breadth.
For example, a good belly and a fine tip is generally preferred for mini painting. Beyond that it all comes down to feel and preference. Some like the softness of a natural watercolor brush, while some might prefer the snappiness of a synthetic or hybrid. I guess what Im driving at is the place where the right tool for the job crosses with the right tool for the user.
Anyway, thanks for the response and I really appreciate these videos. You guys rock!
I'll use sable fur brushes once the manufacturers find an alternative source for the fur. At the moment it comes from an unregulated fur trapping industry (mostly Russian but some Chinese as well) which uses trapping methods which have been made illegal in many countries due to the suffering they inflict on the animal. I don't think these are practices we as a community should support.
This also used to be a problem in the makeup industry but they've been able to move away from it and move to using mostly synthetic brushes! :)
Totally fair.
I'm pretty much exactly with Trovarion on this one. I use a premium Kolinsky (Raphael, da Vinci, or Winsor & Newton) for the vast majority of my miniatures painting. I only use another kind of brush for a very specific purpose: makeup or large hog-bristle round for dry brushing, cheap brushes for terrain, or tiny synthetic brushes for texturing. But for base coating, washing, freehand, layering, whatever, it's a premium Kolinsky.
A good brush makes painting more enjoyable for me. And even expensive brushes are such a tiny part of the cost of the hobby that I'm just not that worried about occasionally having to replace one. Life is too short to paint with cruddy brushes.
The biggest care technique to keep a good brush useful, IMO, is rinsing obsessively. Water is going to get into the ferrule no matter what you do. And once you touch your wet brush to paint, the paint _will_ be carried up into the ferrule by capillary action. This is not something you can avoid, no matter how you manage your brushes. Along with rinsing every minute or so, using a brush soap at the end of a painting session (or in the middle if it's a really long session) will keep a quality brush alive for months of heavy painting.
The one thing I will strongly suggest is that only cheap or expensive brushes are worth buying. Mid-range (say around $5/brush) brushes are (IME) always a mistake. With cheap brushes, you can use them and toss them (you'll be tossing a lot of them). With expensive brushes, you can use them and use them and use them. But mid-grade brushes have all the disadvantages and none of the advantages of both expensive and cheap brushes: they don't last, they're not fun to paint with, and they're much more expensive over time than expensive brushes or cheap brushes.
I second this. One of the biggest changes in my painting was switching to a premium Kolinsky brush.
The point on mid-range brushes is so well said, we should have mentioned that one. :)
The DJ Wet-Blendr persona is really a vibe. 🤣 Great vid guys!
Thanks! 😁
Great video. I was honestly a little surprised in that some things damage brushes such as metallics and thinner paints (like washes.) When you look at it as a business expense I get it, but for a hobby not so much.
And I think that's totally reasonable. :)
Great vid! Love the throw to the tutorial video, nice to have something concrete to tie in with the conversation.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Try the BrokenToad Fungazi! They are super soft synthetics designed to mimic a sable. They're incredible. I'd love to hear your opinions on them since I won't be buying a real hair brush ever... Unfortunately 😞
I'll check it out!
Interesting vid, especially since just a couple days ago I watched a Doctor Faust where he said he doesn't like sable at all because they don't have enough snap and he uses high quality synthetic in their place.
Yeah, he's been one that has always been about synthetics. It suits his techniques as we were saying. :)
A Raphael 8404 size 1 goes for 8€ in Germany and will last any mortal non Vincy V painter for at least a year. Hard to imagin any other product with more value.
treat it like a princess and you will get a lot of mileage out of it, yeah!
@@trovarion How long does one usually last you? How many do you go through in a given year? They last me about a year or two, but I only paint for a few hours about three afternoons a year, so I'm just curious about your case.
About three afternoons a week* I meant
@@MrCristoflanga they last me about 6-8 months, because like i say in the video i dont always treat them super well
@@trovarion That's still good for someone who paints as much as you do and doesn't take special care of them. Thanks for answering, I've found your content incredibly useful since I discovered your channel about a couple of months ago. Painting has made the long-ass quarantine much more bearable for me!
With pretty much every major sable brush company in Europe they are ridiculously expensive in Canada - so it's all about the Artists Loft 'Vienna' synthetic for about 90% of the work, with the #2 being the workhorse. With average care I get at least a year out of one of them - and at about 4 Euro/5.50USD, they are more economical than some heavily used paint colours. That being said, as my skills improve I find myself reaching for my Abteiliung 502 sable (found on sale at a local scale model store) for more than just eye detail.
I managed to get a W&N off amazon that was on sale for some reason, but yeah, it's hard to get cheap sable brushes in Canada. I'll have to check out the Artists Loft synthetics -- I've been bouncing around on different synthetic brands that tend not to last too long, even with good care.
That's interesting, I hadn't heard that before, I wonder if it's particular brands or all of them.
I found my favorite brush in a $3.99 set of 20 brushes from Walmart.
That's a quality deal.
Your Sam Lenz is showing hahaha.
Great video! Amazing series. As for painting: Do you know saying "Watching paint dry"? Ye, I see as my paint dry, it's really quick, maybe I have too low humidity where I paint. That means I can't easily do a quick rough wetblend :/ I've tried using drying retardant but didn't help too much.
I'm a little bit scared of using my Raphael because of this. Everything dries to fast. If I use thinner paint it doesn't cover as much. Because of that I'm using worse quality brushes. I still have few from couple years ago, mostly used for rough job. For texturing, basing, etc., I'm using really junk brushes. Everything has it's use, as long as used appropriately.
If you have low humidity and paint is drying, one of the keys is to use more thick paint straight from the bottle and then work quick and smooth it out on the miniature. It's higher risk, but it's a lot of fun. :)
@@VinceVenturella Good idea, will test it out. I guess oil paints might be good for me in that case! Thanks!
I used decent synthetics up to recently - W&N spectre. Really enjoyed the synthetic, but tips curling drove me mad. Trying to emulate Chris I tried a sable series 7 and was surprised how much softer it was. Took a week or so of changing my style slightly and become more nuanced and gentle. However it does take conscious effort to decide to be in control of your paint all the time. Using different brushes for different phases of painting now.
Awesome, it's just the way that makes sense to me. :)
Great stuff friends 👏 👍
Thank you 🤗
I love my 8404, but I use cheaper brushes too especially for base coating, rough washes, metallics. Fun side note, I have a couple citadel "standard" brushes, purchased around 2010 or 11 that just won't die. They have been through the Warp and back and still have nice tips and work great.
That's so crazy, very different experience with the current brushes. :)
❤ you both, you guys are awesome & so helpful!!😄🌈...I am feeling like I need to go buy some more sable brushes though, and I'm fighting that impulse....
I mean, I wouldn't fight it. :)
@@VinceVenturella I know YOU wouldn't fight the impulse, I saw that paint collection of yours!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 We have similar impulses, my friend!!😜
For myself? I've discovered that a good synthetic brush (yes, there is such a thing) is perfectly usable for most anything. I use them for painting TMM and for dry brushing, here. But a good point is essential, agreed, and frankly? The Princeton brushes that I've been messing with are doing perfectly well and holding a point just fine so far. I did just get a Kolinsky sable brush for the first time in several years (one of the Blick Art Supply versions) and it will be interesting to see how well it holds up, because honestly? The Raphael 8404 brushes I bought some years back--a 0, a 1, and a 2--disappointed me in a big way since the points on all but the 0 disappeared in very short order no matter how often I washed them and took care of them. Ironically, the Raphael Kaerell synthetics that I bought at the same time have held up better, and even though the 1 and 2 lost their points, they still lasted longer than their sable counterparts. Don't get me started on how overrated the W&N #1 I bought as well turned out to be; that thing lost its point in no time flat. Total waste of money, IMO. So far? I'm underwhelmed by sable brushes in general.
It's interesting, because they are often hand-made (not all are anymore), but that means you can have interesting variability in quality. I've had a few bad ones, but for the most part, I've been happy with them
I LOL'ed several times. This is great.
Awesome, glad it was enjoyable. :)
My favorite series... next to Hobhy Cheating, of course.
These are always fun to do for sure. :)
This video shows the how most "how to" or "what tools do I use" videos are wrong. What works for one doesn't work for all! You two say it often. Wish others did. "How to" or "what tools do I use for blah blah" should be used as eye openers on what options people can try till they find their own style or tools that suit their needs. People need to learn to explore and try new things. Test and fail, test again, fail again is how you find you self and get better.
Thanks for thr videos. Keep em coming!
It is not popular content. Claiming you have the answer and giving people the feeling of "this is the right way to do it" (because this is what a lot of people are looking for) is the way to get views on youtube.
Exactly what we were hoping. :)
@@VinceVenturella Where do you order your Rafael 8404 from ? Last few I ordered were fakes.
Yeah I appreciate this. My friend only uses artist loft brushes. But I only use raphael 8404. I'm kinda new to this but I can see an expensive habit forming by me only using the 8404s. It's so much better than my crappy brushes thoughhhhghh. I'm with Trov on this one.
Well, as we came to, no right answer. :)
I paint the most over priced minis so I use the most over priced paints n brushes
It just makes sense.
But gw brushes stink... ;)
Since brush sizes are made up, please will you post the dimensions of your "#8 Artist Brush"? I've been trying to CSI the ferrule/belly width and bristle length from other videos so I can find something similar locally. It looks like it's around 5mm wide and 19mm long which seems unusually short and difficult to find as I find the brush length shoots up as the width increases only a little. Many thanks for the videos - Excellent as always.
You pretty much nailed it, and yes, it's short, which is one of the reasons I like it. FOr that job, I like a shorter fat brush.
Rosemary and Co Series 33 is an even better value, but I completely agree with the 8404 being a great brush. I also use the cheap brushes sometimes, but it's mostly the sables. If budget is a factor then for sure get mostly synthetics, with one nice brush for the important detail work.
Yep, good advice.
I've stopped being a sable purist. I love my raph 8404 too...
But if you are an army painter, like I tend to be, getting some cheap and cheerful synthetic brushes are the right tool for the job when you have to do tons of basecoats.
Exactly, right tool, right job.
I think using sable brushes for fine work and blending are absolutely necessary. I mostly base coat with an airbrush but would probably use a cheaper brush for that
Yeah, it's just a very different experience. :)
i use a W&N series 7 nr.3 , after 20 years the tip is still perfect
That's very impressive.
I own 5 really nice sables, but I rarely use them because I’m “saving them” for models that need them... and yet, even with pieces that I spend 100+ hours on, I rarely find the need to bust them out.
Sounds like a good opportunity to change that. :)
@@VinceVenturella Agreed. Your point in regards to not babying these brushes, but rather using them with care was valid. I’m actually currently using them for a bust I’m working on. Good video, as always!
I thought Rob had the talk with you over Christmas about leaving links to products. Seems like. You know how marketing works, we’ve met.
Sable 8 7 niner...?
Good show
Thanks brother
Well, Trov has all the affiliate links. ;)
@@VinceVenturella ALL of them!
I must feel to you two like piano or guitar students feel towards me at times. They’ll praise how good they think you are. Then that sarcastic voice speaks in your head...”Have you tried practicing”
Keep these coming. They’re keeping me going.
Thanks again
What size brush would you recommend to a newbie for eyes and other details?
And do you use the brush soap for all brushes (including synthetic) or only for the expensive ones?
I use the soap for everything. If we are talking a newer paintiner. A good size 1 and size 0.
That was fun and entertaining, guys! I'm subscribed to Trov as well. My brand new 8404 though, the #1 has this one longer hair and it's driving me nuts. My #0 doesn't have it. Could I have gotten a "lemon"?
It just happens sometimes, you need to trim it, very carefully, with a VERY sharp exacto knife, You press the brush flat against your cutting matt repeatedly until you see that single hair and then you lightly cut away from the brush.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you, Vince, helpful as always! :)
Yahoo, nothing getting home drunk to a Vincey V vid. But gotta ask. Where's the rap VV, WHERE IS THE RAP!
I'll try to work it in here and there. ;)
Great content, as always... a similar discussion, for starting with an airbrush, a cheap chinese one or a more expensive. And later, how to upgrade it to a better quality?
I picked a chinese pack. And I want to go for the next level... would it be necessary to change my compressor as well?
I use the same advice as I do when people ask how much should I spend on an airbrush and that is this "Once you have enough experience, you will know when its the tool or your skill that is holding you back. If you haven't had that moment yet, you don't need the expensive tool, keep working on technique." And no, I use my cheap compressor with my Harder and Stienbeck
With the airbrush, start cheap, then upgrade when you are confident. When you change airbrush, you can generally keep the same compressor. Just get a compressor with a tank.
Not to brush anyone the wrong way :-) but I currently prefer my size 2 brushes. But since the meaning of size and tips seems to vary from brand to brand, maybe I'm using the same as you guys? by the way, is there anything "universal" that would define at least some of the characteristics of a brush in a standard way, allowing us to compare brands and such?
Thanks for the vid! Love to see when there's exchanges like these. Keep up the rhythm!
The W&N I had ran small even the 3 was pretty small. The Raphael 8404s I got are huge compared to the Series 7.
There is really no standardization, one size 1 is another brush size 3
I've used a hammer on a screw plenty of times, but never a screwdriver for a nail! I think that saying is busted haha
A fair point. :)
Would love a 3d presentation about the differences between synthetic and sable. The production quality (sable is often hand crafted which implies variance in quality maybe depending on the manual worker's skill, tiredness etc). Also the actual physical properties between sable and synthetic, can synthetic ever be thinner in terms of the fibers compared to sable ? can a tip for sable be more pointy than a tip for synthetic if the world focused it's tech efforts to achieve such a thing ? I'm a freak and I use a Raphael 8404 Size 00 for most of my 28mm infantry painting unless it's a really large area in which case I use a Raphael 8404 0. I have a Raphael 8404 000 for eyes but that is all. Got a cheapo synthetic for synthetics. I find that the size 0's and above even with Raphael 8404 are not great for thin tips, maybe I got a dud batch, I dunno. I have Some Broken Toad and Rosemary & Co and Da Vinci which I've yet to try out but I've tried Winsor and Newton Series 7 and they're good but the belly is not as good as the Raphael for holding paint. Once the tip for the Raphael 8404 goes, I put a silver tape on the handle and use it for any old imprecise thing. If I get paint up in the ferrule for my sable brush, the quick panic procedure is a) clean it in warm clean water, dip the sable brush in Vallejo Sable Brush Restorer ( the blue stuff) for 25 minutes and really deep so the tip is almost touching the base of the brush restorer bottle c) get a magnifying lens and with a sewing needle gently scrape away the paint that is squishy around the part of the ferrule that meets the outside world (it's like a ring) d) wash the brush with The Masters Soap Brush cleaner and warmish water under the tap e) form the brush bristles into a tip and leave to hang to dry (maybe or maybe not leave some soap as conditioner to hold the bristles in shape) e) Pray to the Lord that the sable brush retains it's tip the next day.
It sounds liek we need to call Miniac in to make a grid and do some serious testing. ;)
I got to fill out a survey after I was done watching this video. I checked Informative, Useful and Good. I did not check Heartwarming, in case you’re trying to target that demographic too I thought you would want to know. ;) Thanks for the video.
Glad it was informative, useful and good. :)
What’s that wax compound people use to maintain the tip of their brush?
You can use V05 matt clay hair sculpting wax.
Yep, already answered. :)
My biggest problem with Sable brushes is the time it takes to maintain them. Sometimes I just want to paint for 10 or so minutes when I have a moment and Sable brushes make that impossible due to the time I spend cleaning them afterwards. The maintaience of Sable brushes is a side hobby in it of itself. Love them, but they are not convenient.
They usually last me a long time and the only thing I do is having a second pot of clean water. After dipping it in the first one to get the paint out, I dip it and swirl it in the second pot to make sure it's clean and then leave them to dry horizontally if I'm not using them anymore. Every two months or so I wash them with Master's. They've last me a long time this way, and it's much more convenient than having to carefully wash them after every use!
?? Just get a bar of brush soap, and wash the brush with it after you're finished painting.
I will say you may be overcleaning. I think the key is rinse often during the painting, then at the end of the day, you just give a quick 20 second cleaning with brush soap and you're good.
@@VinceVenturella that's probably true. I recently bought some artis opus brushes and their cleaning process is really extensive. Takes the fun out of owning them.
I own more drybrushed than sable brushes lol, Then entire Artis Opus D range, several Army painter brushes, Army painter masterclass, Several makeup brushes. I just love drybrushing lol
It's a great technique, nothing wrong at all. :)
Just started to use some non sable brushes again and... I forgot about the curl! Why do the tips curl? Is there any reason to stop the tip from curling on non-sable brushes?
Use a brush cleaner like "the Masters" when you're done and reshape the tip in your palm or with your fingers before storing. You can also use V05 matt sculpting hair wax to reshape brushes before storing to lock in the shape. Just rinse them off before using again.
Good advice already, remember, you can also use stuff like hair conditioner, that will relax the fibers and make them uncurl.
@@VinceVenturella and that works on nylon brushes? I haven’t used them in so long I forgot about the dreaded Hook Tip. I picked some up for larger washes and base coating 3d printed miniatures since those are supposed to be especially hard on brushes.
@@christopherkelly9153 Yep, hair conditioner generally relaxes fibres (you can use it to unshrink shirts as well). ;)
@@VinceVenturella are we talking about what I use when showering? Do you know if a specific conditioner that works? Not to put you on the spot, but I am excited about this and don’t want to use the wrong stuff. I doubt you want me using Head and Shoulders. And thank you for all these videos, I am always watching your old content!
And what brush do i use if i dont want to use animal haur brushes?
So there are some really nice synthetics, Broken Toad has a new synthetic line. Cotman brushes are also nice.
@@VinceVenturella thank you i will zake a look at them. 🤩
I feel any of the innate artistic things you guys said might be a factor really just allow someone who has any of that is just going to get to a point faster than someone without putting the same hours in. Both people make it to golden demon e eventually.
I am always dubious of artistic talent. I've seen it, but I will say that for the most part, talent is just practice and determination.
@@VinceVenturella I feel the same. So would you say then that hypothetically you, me, anybody with practice could paint the Mona Lisa for example? Art has this wired mystique that surrounds it but it just seems like anybody could just practice and practice and get there.
@@VinceVenturella That is such an interesting comment you made. You guys did a video on that topic together, I'm running off to watch it now. I really enjoy your back and forth discussion.
THAT being said, the Richard Grey model you showed and mentioned in the video about how many paints & colors you need, the one with the floral shield that looked like an Old Master painting or an Alexander McQueen design on a $3,000 dress...that took some SERIOUS Artistic Talent. I'm pretty artistic, took lots of studio classes in college, but that paint job was way above what 99.9% could accomplish, I think. YOU are awesome, I so enjoy your videos!!!💖🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟💖
I’ve been warned by “the UA-cam masters” that metallic paint will ruin most any brush. I am now getting into “fine” detail work with metallics. I need a good brush to do that. Vince, what do you suggest? I have sables and I have a good variety of synthetics.
It's hard on brushes, you don't really want to use sables if you can avoid it, I use a new cheap synthetic with a good tip and use it until it basically starts to fray or anything.
Makes sense. Thank you.
I try to treat my sable brushes well but they last me for 6-8 months. After that they last me for years crawling down the line of worn out brushes.
I tried synthetic brushes but they last me some days before the tip looks like a claw. In the end this costs me more money and I have less fun. I still use them for dirty deeds.
Yeah, you get the best usage for 6mo to a year, then you get years of good additional work out of them.
Sable brushes are the only ones that seem to last in my use. Synthetics always curl, no matter how gently I think I'm using them. Considering how cheap entry level sable brushes are, there's no need for me to try to troubleshoot what exactly it is in my form, equipment and habits that makes this happen. By the time I figured it out, I could have spent the wasted effort painting an entire army with just a size 2. No amount of money ever bought a second of time.
Totally agree, your time is so valuable.
What entry level ones would you recommend?
Btw Trovarion is slightly behind with the video, compared to the audio
Yeah, it's for the first few minutes and it just wouldn't line up perfectly.
5:32. Where did you buy that brush and that in packs of 10?
I get mine from Michaels. You can get these at Hobby Lobby as well.
@@arrinstoner I meant what brand is that. I live in Denmark and we don't have a Michaels or Hobby Lobby.
So sadly the answer is all over. I get them from hobby stores, amazon, whereever I could find them. Because they are cheap, generic brushes, there really isn't one standard source. just generics that are often rebranded. So I am myself am always just grabbing cheap packs, testing them out and buying a couple more.
Vince, if you wanted to do a Mythbusting on sculpting and greenstuff, put me in coach 🖐🏽
Good note, what would you want us to tackle?
Synthetic work really well if you look after them properly
Sable just last way longer with the same proper care.
I think in the end, we get more out of all of our brushes if we care for them. :)
I'm gonna need a mixtape from DJ WET-BLNDR
Look for my spin off youtube channel coming soon. ;)
You don't need a sable brush as much as that sable needed to not be kept in appalling conditions and then killed for their fur. If you were under the misconception that they just give happy little sables a haircut to make brushes, you are wrong - they are raised in cages, then they are killed and skinned. The fact that one animal makes a few hundred brushes instead of a single shawl doesn't make it any less appalling than the fur trade.
It's not an easy thing to hear, but the brushes you choose buy have consequences beyond how creamy your blends are and it's important to understand what they are.
ua-cam.com/video/7LtiqFt6dC8/v-deo.html
Completely fair point, we should have touched on that.
Enjoying listening while painting with ALL my SHIT brushes, INCLUDING the sable brushes I managed to DESTROY in my first 3-4 weeks of painting....
Yeah, your first sables often get destroyed fast. It happens, don't feel bad. :)
there is this myth that the best is only good enough, and materials that are not the best are not good enough and bad buy.
This is because you shouldn't start with the cheapest material, which makes the beginning difficult and the beginners may refer to the fact that the first attempts do not work, and they are good enough for this technique/hobby, instead of the material not being suitable for it.
But that is also no reason to switch from one to the other extremely, it is enough to buy material in the medium quality and price range to have good material to start with.
As for the concrete myth with the red sable brush, it often happens that people with a little knowledge of a topic generalize and spread things like the most expensive material is considered the best no matter what painting technique, because beginners and people who do not want to deviate from their entrenched opinions, and it used to be like that, it is still like that for them and because they have learned little new.
They understand it as an irrefutable fact and don't think about whether that's true or not.
Red sable brushes are good, but also very soft and are therefore not for z. B. very solid paints the hair bend too much and lose shape.
The primer of canvases is often too rough for red sable brushes and the brushes rub off and the tip is quickly destroyed and that happens more slowly in pans of
watercolour so it is better not to stir the pans with the expensive red sable brush to get paint when you want to enjoy the fine point for a long time.
Sable brushes are very popular among watercolour painters because they can absorb a lot of water and have a pleasant firmness to enable precise brushstrokes,
which does not work so well with e.g. squirrel hair that is too soft for many watercolorists to paint precisely and is more used for looser style painting.
Very well said.
I think that Sam Lenz may find this video somewhat confusing. "What is this sable brush that you speak of?" possibly words said by him.
I joke. I'm sure that even Sam Lenz has at least a sable brush or two in his arsenal of Golden Taklon brushes... maybe.
He does , you can go on mounument hobbies and get a weapon rack , has two synthetics and 3 sables .
Yep, my own use of the brushes is very similar to his honestly. :)
I feel very targeted after my statements on Rantcast last night lol
Didn't catch it, but now I can't wait to see it. :)
Remember to like and comment to appease the almighty algorithm 😁👍🏼
👍🏻👍🏻
:)
Need? No. Enjoy using more than synthetic? Yes
Works for me.
Seriously why is it not called 'Miniature Painting Mythbrushing'???????????????w
Missed opportunity. :)
Comment for the Algo
greatly appricated.
Where can we subscribe to DJ Wet-BLNDR? :D
Separate channel coming soon. :)
Of course the European is haughty about their brushes...I kid. I have way more sable brushes than I need...
Almost got me going there xD
Almost got em. ;)
No, you dont need expensive brushes. Look at Sam Lenz.
Well, to be fair, even Sam uses Sable brushes for detail work, fine freehand, etc. Sam uses his brushes much like I do, lots of work with cheap brushes, but it's using the detail brushes for that final finishing work. :)
I only just realised that GW brushes are sable. That's why the M layer brush is my favourite and it has lasted so long.
Actually the layer brushes are partially synthetic hybrids, to get full sable you have to get the artificer brushes. That being said it's all personal preference anyway, I hate both of those lol
I think the layer brushes are sable but not kolinsky, while the artificers are kolinsky and the same as W&N series 7 (size 1 is M, size 0 is S and size 00 is XS). I find the layer ones to be a bit too soft and don't hold the tip as well as a kolinsky, but they're pretty good all-rounders and not very expensive.
Correct, as has been said, the artificers are sable, most are either hybrids or synthetics.
"Do you need a Sable Brush". Short answer, no.
Well that would be a short episode. :)
@@VinceVenturella ha that it would.
I use the cheapest shit i can find for most of my painting (gold line).
Mixed with some cheap green stuff world, army painter and citadell brushes.
I am without a doubt the best painter in my social circle and then some.
I get constantly told how awesome my models look.
I'm having a really hard time justifying the cost of more expensive brushes because of this.
Well, I always say if you are the best person in your group, it's time to find new people for feedback to keep growing and challenging yourself. :)
@@VinceVenturella yeah, true.
But i am happy where I am and I mainly enjoy playing over painting. 😀