Great tips by Tony. One thing I also do when the covers can't come off is to check for tacky or gooey spots. If present it could mean a drink has spilt into the unit possibly causing shorts and/or corrosion.
Really nice primer on checking the basics Sir! A mention of the 'ol "checking the power plug to verify the transformer integrity" process would also be useful. When I'm strolling through a swap meet or Hamfest, it's often all I can do for a piece on someone's table. Have always appreciated your content and your "vibe". Thanks for all the great videos. - JRH
Thank you for posting this! I find it useful to keep around a bulb socket with bulbs, wago clamps, extension cords and pieces of wire. You can make a DBT out of those or wire them to an AC output in order to check if for example a dimmer circuit works, whether the sockets put enough amps (voltmeter isn't enough) and various other things. Was planning to move that mess of wires in the lab but it stays in the kitchen because it's used so often.
Many years ago when I built a Velleman amp kit..they had you build a "dim bulb tester" and provided test connections in the device so that when you first powered it up you knew if you had a short. I built a few Heath-kits in my day and they never did that...
I imagine that if you had seen the old home-built Dynakit amp that I left a Halloween pumpkin upon for a couple of weeks, you might have stopped right there. As I recall, I was able to use the thing for a while longer, but that was definitely the beginning of the end. Chuckle. Thanks for the good advice.
Hey Tony, most of the traffic lights in Europe have been or are being transitioned to LED. I remember that some of the old ones were indecipherable in strong direct sunlight. The problem with LED though is that they don't melt the snow :)
Yup, I'd crimp 100 before soldering one. LOL, and when I miss the heatshrink, I'm lazy and I get out the Scotch88. BTW, that's a very good demonstration of a simple DBT.
I'm curious about your claim with respect to crimping versus soldering power cables. Might you know section/code which prohibits a solder connection of a "mains" /line? I could see where there could be restrictions based on the designated terminal. For instance, they wouldn't want you to solder a wire that is landing on a circuit breaker or other electrical connector since the connection is designed to bite down on the bare copper and the flattening of a stranded cable would allow for more/better contact area. However, I don't know of many appliances or other corded non power-limited equipment where the 120V hot lead doesn't get soldered to a fuse connector or the power switch.
I believe Article 250 and Article 110 of the National Electrical Code addresses this. If you are making a connection inside a device, the rules are different from when you are making a bond in a conductor that will provide mains current to a device. I'm not an authority, that's why I refer to those that are, such as the electrical code inspector. Thanks for the comment!
All I can say is I was taught that a mechanical connection was always superior to a solder connection. For example, wire wrap posts - they demonstrate this.
@@xraytonyb as I understand it, any UL/ETL recommended device (which would include its termination method) would default to the manufacturer's specifications. So, if they specify bare wire, it's bare wire. If it is to be crimped or otherwise prepped, then the prep is part of the connection. Now, I'm not sure any electrical inspector would not consider the dim-bulb tester to be kosher, to begin with. The modification of the extension cord would be the start of violations. The clip lead ends would be the other end of the violation. But this is all after the receptacle anyway. I don't know of any good bench that doesn't have a dim-bulb system. I'm not trying to give you a hard time Tony. Really! I thoroughly enjoy and look forward to your videos. I was genuinely curious about the code you mentioned as people tend to throw out "not to code" pretty quickly as a means to shut someone down (I've been in a lot of construction meetings)...I generally ask for them to cite the code, if what they don't want to do would interfere with what I want. Below are the relevant (from what I can tell) of the sections of the NEC you mention and why soldering is fine, providing you make a mechanically secure connection first. You can't just "tack" two wires together with solder. 250.8 (B) Methods Not Permitted. Article 250 requires the connection devices or fittings that depend solely on solder shall not be used. [SG Comment: Note the key is that one is depending solely on the solder for the connection is the violation If you make a mechanically secure connection and then solder (twist the wires together before solder), you are not in violation of 250.] 110.14 (B) Splices. Conductors shall be spliced or joined with splicing devices identified for the use or by brazing, welding, or soldering with a fusible metal or alloy. Soldered splices shall first be spliced or joined so as to be mechanically and electrically secure without solder and then be soldered. All splices and joints and the free ends of conductors shall be covered with an insulation equivalent to that of the conductors or with an identified insulating device.
Great tips by Tony. One thing I also do when the covers can't come off is to check for tacky or gooey spots. If present it could mean a drink has spilt into the unit possibly causing shorts and/or corrosion.
Really nice primer on checking the basics Sir! A mention of the 'ol "checking the power plug to verify the transformer integrity" process would also be useful. When I'm strolling through a swap meet or Hamfest, it's often all I can do for a piece on someone's table. Have always appreciated your content and your "vibe". Thanks for all the great videos. - JRH
It's easy when you know how, thank you Tony. Some men gamble on sports, I gamble on vintage stereos. That's really living!
The smell test works too. If it smells burnt do not plug in ,or mouldy look inside.
Thank you for posting this!
I find it useful to keep around a bulb socket with bulbs, wago clamps, extension cords and pieces of wire. You can make a DBT out of those or wire them to an AC output in order to check if for example a dimmer circuit works, whether the sockets put enough amps (voltmeter isn't enough) and various other things. Was planning to move that mess of wires in the lab but it stays in the kitchen because it's used so often.
Many years ago when I built a Velleman amp kit..they had you build a "dim bulb tester" and provided test connections in the device so that when you first powered it up you knew if you had a short. I built a few Heath-kits in my day and they never did that...
I imagine that if you had seen the old home-built Dynakit amp that I left a Halloween pumpkin upon for a couple of weeks, you might have stopped right there. As I recall, I was able to use the thing for a while longer, but that was definitely the beginning of the end. Chuckle. Thanks for the good advice.
6:15 - I was thinking also appliance bulbs for ovens!
Yes. And you can get those all the way down to 15 and 25 watt :)
Reptile basking bulbs are another alternative for incandescent bulbs.
Great video, Tony!
Don't know for sure but the cord set looks to be more modern / non-original...indicating a previous issue was addressed.
Excellent video topic Tony.
Hey Tony, most of the traffic lights in Europe have been or are being transitioned to LED. I remember that some of the old ones were indecipherable in strong direct sunlight. The problem with LED though is that they don't melt the snow :)
nice one mr Tony
Love the look of that Marantz.
Yup, I'd crimp 100 before soldering one.
LOL, and when I miss the heatshrink, I'm lazy and I get out the Scotch88.
BTW, that's a very good demonstration of a simple DBT.
Thanks Tony!
you can also use halogen bulbs for the dim bulb tester
Thanks bro.! Good video!
I would also check to see if the unit has some strange unobtanium output transistors.
I'm curious about your claim with respect to crimping versus soldering power cables. Might you know section/code which prohibits a solder connection of a "mains" /line? I could see where there could be restrictions based on the designated terminal. For instance, they wouldn't want you to solder a wire that is landing on a circuit breaker or other electrical connector since the connection is designed to bite down on the bare copper and the flattening of a stranded cable would allow for more/better contact area.
However, I don't know of many appliances or other corded non power-limited equipment where the 120V hot lead doesn't get soldered to a fuse connector or the power switch.
I believe Article 250 and Article 110 of the National Electrical Code addresses this. If you are making a connection inside a device, the rules are different from when you are making a bond in a conductor that will provide mains current to a device. I'm not an authority, that's why I refer to those that are, such as the electrical code inspector. Thanks for the comment!
All I can say is I was taught that a mechanical connection was always superior to a solder connection. For example, wire wrap posts - they demonstrate this.
@@xraytonyb as I understand it, any UL/ETL recommended device (which would include its termination method) would default to the manufacturer's specifications. So, if they specify bare wire, it's bare wire. If it is to be crimped or otherwise prepped, then the prep is part of the connection.
Now, I'm not sure any electrical inspector would not consider the dim-bulb tester to be kosher, to begin with. The modification of the extension cord would be the start of violations. The clip lead ends would be the other end of the violation. But this is all after the receptacle anyway. I don't know of any good bench that doesn't have a dim-bulb system.
I'm not trying to give you a hard time Tony. Really! I thoroughly enjoy and look forward to your videos.
I was genuinely curious about the code you mentioned as people tend to throw out "not to code" pretty quickly as a means to shut someone down (I've been in a lot of construction meetings)...I generally ask for them to cite the code, if what they don't want to do would interfere with what I want.
Below are the relevant (from what I can tell) of the sections of the NEC you mention and why soldering is fine, providing you make a mechanically secure connection first. You can't just "tack" two wires together with solder.
250.8 (B) Methods Not Permitted. Article 250 requires the connection devices or fittings that depend solely on solder shall not be used.
[SG Comment: Note the key is that one is depending solely on the solder for the connection is the violation If you make a mechanically secure connection and then solder (twist the wires together before solder), you are not in violation of 250.]
110.14 (B) Splices. Conductors shall be spliced or joined with splicing devices identified for the use or by brazing, welding, or soldering with a fusible metal or alloy. Soldered splices shall first be spliced or joined so as to be mechanically and electrically secure without solder and then be soldered. All splices and joints and the free ends of conductors shall be covered with an insulation equivalent to that of the conductors or with an identified insulating device.
Should probably check the DC offsets, at the speaker terminals first?