@@alex13238712 H22a4 w/o modifying will give a 11.8 to 1 compression, a more than K20a2 oem type S pistons. So if you use H22 type S piston, it's like 13.1 comp ratio. Check out www.zealautowerks.com. just select your setup and click calculate.
@@sagittnet2158 hahaha. My accord is running pretty good so far. I do have a lot of blow by tho, my driveway has a huge black spot lol. Was told it could be my piston rings but I’m not sure what the reason is. Been meaning to do a leak down test when I get a chance. Any thoughts?
@@nicholassantos2327 oh no! If it's a blowby and really bad. Remove the pil cap and check how much air will pop out from there and if like kinda blueish color then you might have a broken or bad seal or could. Best also to do a compression check, so you can pinpoint w/c cylinder is bad.
@@sagittnet2158 yeah I was depressed at first when I noticed it but it gives me an excuse to build the engine sooner hehe. I don’t recall any air coming out of after I removed the oil cap in the past. But I’ll check and pay more attention. If no air comes out then what could it be? And I’ll do a compression test soon. Thanks again!
@@nicholassantos2327 there should be air coming out but if it's bluish in color and quite a excessive, then your suspicion is correct. Yeah, compression ck will be your best bet.
Im glad that i discovered your channel i enjoy the videos, I'd like to build a G23 an f23 bottom end with an H22A4 head im just having trouble deciding what pistons and cams to use if im going to add a turbo later on Im really not going all out but id like to achieve 260 to 300 whp i mean i dont need 500 hp in small car thats going to be driven daily and parts list for internals would be greatly appreciated.
If you're planning to put a turbo later on, best to beef the bottom end. Things you only need, forged f23 rods, any ebay forged rods are able to handle the abuse. I'm using maxpeedingrods myself and no problem yet. I used K20a2 CP piston because l dont have to worry about wristpin offset. Wiseco K piston have offset so remember you have to install it backwards. You can special order a F23 piston, check out KStuned, they might be able to help you out. Use your H22a4 camshafts, H oem cams are very responsive together w/ turbo up to 500hp. Get a k20a2 forged piston w/ 9.4 comp/ratio and that'll will give you amost 10.1 comp ratio when use w/ H22 cyl head. Keep your comp/ ratio under 10.1 and you'll be good. Check www.zealautowerks.com for more info about comp/ratio. Balance shaft is optional, your choice if you keep or not. Replace your valve springs w/ aftermarket, ( I'm using Blox) and for turbo, use gt3582 and your'e all set. For fuel system, walbro 250 lph, get a minimum 1000cc injectiors and has to be a legit one( i'm using 1050 Injector Dynamics). Use a good wastegate like TIAL , for bov, your choice. For ecu, you need P28 w/ Hondata S300( a must) and l think that's it. Just watch some of my videos for some info and you'll good to go.
@@deltafox8795 l'll be guessing somewhere more than 11.1 comp ratio (after my piston mod), It's lower than unmodified H22a4 pistons w/c is 11.8 to 1 according to zealautowerks.com. Installing H22a4 piston on F23 rod n f23 crank will give you 11.8 to 1, H22 type S piston is 13 to 1.
@@sagittnet2158 id like to run a 10:1 compression so i can used E85 later. Also the h head, would it hurt to use stock head parts or should i worry about valves and such , i am going back with at least 93 lbs springs idk if i should mess with anything else
F23 crank have 97mm crank throw and it gives more torque than H22. It's very agressive motor compare to H22 but rev wise, if abuse too much, spin rod bearings are inevitable. Crank n' rods was polished n' balanced prior. Thanks
@@sagittnet2158 awesome 👏🏽 thanks for that , and one more question can you run k20 pistons in the h22a4 with max speeding rods since they’re both 87mm and since the k20 piston sits 1mm lower , with a turbo set up ? Or is it just better to do a rebuilt on the h22
@@CarlosFongujo H22 carbon fiber liner are very picky when it comes to piston. I can only recommend H22 OE piston. Mahle piston they say it's compatible but that's all up you. Unless you have the block resleeve then you are endless on piston choices. If these motor is not for your primary transportation. I'll probably just rebuilt the H22, only use OE piston so ypu wont have any headache when it comes to piston slap on the walls.
@@CarlosFongujo reaearch more info on Mahle piston, if your'e thinking of boosting it. If you do use it, just make sure to follow their recommended piston 2wall n' piston ring gap specs.
@@sagittnet2158 thank you brother , I appreciate everything you do for us H AND F boys , and yeah I’ve heard you can use mahle pistons but it’s basically the same as OE but your right I’ll just stick to a h22 rebuilt … and in the future go F20b , don’t go K swap stick with the H or go F20b lol
It would be the best project for a stroker (a.k.a G23vtec) I did got a hold of H23vtec pistons and learned to found out it has a wrist pin offset just like f23 piston. I'm jellin now coz l send those pistons overseas. Otherwise l will build another w/ h23a pistons in it.
@@sagittnet2158 would the h23a vtec pistons stick out of the hole any? Using a f23a block, crank, and rods. Everything else would be h23a parts. Like pistons and the head. Or is there a better piston to go with, that won’t stick out of the block? Thanks in advance. 🙏🏼
@@curtisadams7513 The h23a piston is lower than H22 if use on f23 internals. I think by .5-1mm, if use you probably wont notice the difference not like H22 piston. No other piston can be use other than oe on frm sleeve that l can recommend. H23a piston is my choice if l'll build another engine, its perfect coz of the wrist pin offset.
Wow, good details about G23 Vtec engine build that showed us what you did work. If you plan to run turbo , are you using aftermarket pistons, rods, ARP bolts, etc. Just use stock K20A pistons? I researched on Google, H23A Blue Top is a little different from H22A on Rods (F23A rods is same size as Blue top) and crankshaft weight, 95MM stroke, etc. Great job on engine built.
These block is strictly NA setup. If ever you decide a Turbo setup, its best to use forged pistons and forged F23 rods and offcourse use a iron sleeve block. Arp headstuds is a must on turbo setup. H23avtec bluetop rods have different length compare to F23 rods coz crank throw. 95mm for H23( f22b1,2), 97mm for F23.
Hi, I finished checking all my clearances and everything looks good except for the crankshaft end play. I could not get the minimum clearances of .004 to go in.
It'll harder to get it using feeler gauge once main caps are installed. Only way to do it is w,/ a dial gauge. But if you can turn your crankshaft , you'll be good.
@@sagittnet2158 Thanks for the input. I only had the rods bolted down since at that time I was doing rod clearances. I'll lube up the bearings and install main caps so I can spin the crankshaft and check if spin freely. I'll let you know how it turned out. Thanks
@@Open90 ok, if you have not install the main cap yet, you should be able to insert the feeler gauge, just give it help of a screw driver( pry it forward a bit then insert your feeler gauge.
@@1Man77 The rings are catered to the block sleeved wear. When cyl bore sizes are new, you need to check for proper gap and file the rings as require and when sleeve have lots of mileage on it, check the gap also but unlikely you'll be filing the rings. If your cyl bore initial measurement was out of tolelance ( out of service limits). You need to go oversize and start fresh again. Oe rings are good, l dont see the need to use OE unless l'm using brand new OE piston. You'll be good on NPR rings. What engine are you building if you dont mind me asking?
@@sagittnet2158 I'm rebuilding a F23a JDM that in my 2000 Accord. Had a blown valve that kissed piston #1 so I thought this would be a great time to somewhat replace all essential parts with genuine OE parts. I do have a set of brand new OE piston and rings but Honda has replaced the 98-01 rings with 03-07. Having so doubts not knowing if this is a good or bad thing. So I'm contemplating whether to keep the rings or pick up the NPR's. I'm leaning more towards keeping them.
If you have a spare car it'll be best and it's not a bad motor at all once you fix all the bugs out (if there's anything that'll show).. You'll like it, its totally different than H22.
Lots of things actually. Let's say you already own a Prelude for example. You already have all the parts except for F23 crank and rods. No worries about plugging cylinder head, water pump( swapping gears ). You dont have to cut water cooling pipe and join f23 and H22 pipe together. But offcourse only bad side is you can't put a turbo coz of using oem pistons. But NA setup, it'll be perfect.
Used same main bolts for rechecking clearances and final torqueing. Never have a problem so far. Just make sure to soak the main bolts on engine oil before tightening it.
That'll be hard to do coz you need a conversion plate and lots of trimming to do on the block. H22 will tear that d series tranby gears also. Good side is, H2b will be best for your setup. Aftermarket support mods are endless too.
@@sagittnet2158 having trouble finding rebuild kits so looking for other options, another racer said he swapped first gear and shaft from civic 5 spd transmission and it bolted right up?
@@Gleason512 that'll be interesting and no l haven't come accross on swapping gears from civic to F and H tranny. I'm mostly ok on F,H 1st and 2nd gear, the 3rd gear is what my concern back then coz of what l do when l line up on the fwy. But it was resolved by using m2s4 3rd gear w/c is perfect. The only way to find out really is to open a D series tranny and try it out.
@@Gleason512 lt does exist, it's a F2d that bisi was selling back in the day. I sure like to help you out but my resource is only up to F and H tranny. I sure like to see a H2d setup though.
I approve this video
Thanks brother!
Man thank u so much for this content i always wanted to see the possibilities on making this work
Thanks brother, thought l'd share something that most of us already have laying around in our garage.
@@sagittnet2158 do u knlw that the compression would be witth that set up
@@alex13238712 H22a4 w/o modifying will give a 11.8 to 1 compression, a more than K20a2 oem type S pistons. So if you use H22 type S piston, it's like 13.1 comp ratio. Check out www.zealautowerks.com. just select your setup and click calculate.
@@alex13238712 On mine, sinced l modified the pistons. I think it's like more than 11 to 1 comp/ratio.
@@sagittnet2158 what mods did u do to the piston ...at 11.8 could u still use 91?
This is the video I didn't know I needed.
Thanks man!
These videos are so good! Thanks so much. I hope to learn enough to build a couple motors!
Tnx buddy, go easy on your projek you hear! Later bud
Thank you. Your always so helpful
Thank you sensei! Might have to do this with my H22a4. I plan to start rebuilding it next year, hopefully
Hehehe, domo Nicholas san. How's your Accord doin?
@@sagittnet2158 hahaha. My accord is running pretty good so far. I do have a lot of blow by tho, my driveway has a huge black spot lol. Was told it could be my piston rings but I’m not sure what the reason is. Been meaning to do a leak down test when I get a chance. Any thoughts?
@@nicholassantos2327 oh no! If it's a blowby and really bad. Remove the pil cap and check how much air will pop out from there and if like kinda blueish color then you might have a broken or bad seal or could. Best also to do a compression check, so you can pinpoint w/c cylinder is bad.
@@sagittnet2158 yeah I was depressed at first when I noticed it but it gives me an excuse to build the engine sooner hehe. I don’t recall any air coming out of after I removed the oil cap in the past. But I’ll check and pay more attention. If no air comes out then what could it be? And I’ll do a compression test soon. Thanks again!
@@nicholassantos2327 there should be air coming out but if it's bluish in color and quite a excessive, then your suspicion is correct. Yeah, compression ck will be your best bet.
Im glad that i discovered your channel i enjoy the videos, I'd like to build a G23 an f23 bottom end with an H22A4 head im just having trouble deciding what pistons and cams to use if im going to add a turbo later on Im really not going all out but id like to achieve 260 to 300 whp i mean i dont need 500 hp in small car thats going to be driven daily and parts list for internals would be greatly appreciated.
If you're planning to put a turbo later on, best to beef the bottom end. Things you only need, forged f23 rods, any ebay forged rods are able to handle the abuse. I'm using maxpeedingrods myself and no problem yet. I used K20a2 CP piston because l dont have to worry about wristpin offset. Wiseco K piston have offset so remember you have to install it backwards. You can special order a F23 piston, check out KStuned, they might be able to help you out. Use your H22a4 camshafts, H oem cams are very responsive together w/ turbo up to 500hp. Get a k20a2 forged piston w/ 9.4 comp/ratio and that'll will give you amost 10.1 comp ratio when use w/ H22 cyl head. Keep your comp/ ratio under 10.1 and you'll be good. Check www.zealautowerks.com for more info about comp/ratio. Balance shaft is optional, your choice if you keep or not. Replace your valve springs w/ aftermarket, ( I'm using Blox) and for turbo, use gt3582 and your'e all set. For fuel system, walbro 250 lph, get a minimum 1000cc injectiors and has to be a legit one( i'm using 1050 Injector Dynamics). Use a good wastegate like TIAL , for bov, your choice. For ecu, you need P28 w/ Hondata S300( a must) and l think that's it. Just watch some of my videos for some info and you'll good to go.
Use ARP H22 headstuds and F23 oem headgasket.
@@sagittnet2158 what compression ratio would you be going for in this
@@deltafox8795 l'll be guessing somewhere more than 11.1 comp ratio (after my piston mod), It's lower than unmodified H22a4 pistons w/c is 11.8 to 1 according to zealautowerks.com. Installing H22a4 piston on F23 rod n f23 crank will give you 11.8 to 1, H22 type S piston is 13 to 1.
@@sagittnet2158 id like to run a 10:1 compression so i can used E85 later. Also the h head, would it hurt to use stock head parts or should i worry about valves and such , i am going back with at least 93 lbs springs idk if i should mess with anything else
Cool video once again
Thanx bruh!
I love it man , what’s the difference in adding the f23 crank and rods ? Did you get the crank polished and balanced ?
F23 crank have 97mm crank throw and it gives more torque than H22. It's very agressive motor compare to H22 but rev wise, if abuse too much, spin rod bearings are inevitable. Crank n' rods was polished n' balanced prior. Thanks
@@sagittnet2158 awesome 👏🏽 thanks for that , and one more question can you run k20 pistons in the h22a4 with max speeding rods since they’re both 87mm and since the k20 piston sits 1mm lower , with a turbo set up ? Or is it just better to do a rebuilt on the h22
@@CarlosFongujo H22 carbon fiber liner are very picky when it comes to piston. I can only recommend H22 OE piston. Mahle piston they say it's compatible but that's all up you. Unless you have the block resleeve then you are endless on piston choices. If these motor is not for your primary transportation. I'll probably just rebuilt the H22, only use OE piston so ypu wont have any headache when it comes to piston slap on the walls.
@@CarlosFongujo reaearch more info on Mahle piston, if your'e thinking of boosting it. If you do use it, just make sure to follow their recommended piston 2wall n' piston ring gap specs.
@@sagittnet2158 thank you brother , I appreciate everything you do for us H AND F boys , and yeah I’ve heard you can use mahle pistons but it’s basically the same as OE but your right I’ll just stick to a h22 rebuilt … and in the future go F20b , don’t go K swap stick with the H or go F20b lol
Could you use a h23a vtec block with f23a crank & rods. And use h23a vtec pistons?
It would be the best project for a stroker (a.k.a G23vtec) I did got a hold of H23vtec pistons and learned to found out it has a wrist pin offset just like f23 piston. I'm jellin now coz l send those pistons overseas. Otherwise l will build another w/ h23a pistons in it.
H23vtec block and f23 are 55mm main bearings, so if you have the parts, your good to go.
@@sagittnet2158 would the h23a vtec pistons stick out of the hole any? Using a f23a block, crank, and rods. Everything else would be h23a parts. Like pistons and the head. Or is there a better piston to go with, that won’t stick out of the block? Thanks in advance. 🙏🏼
@@curtisadams7513 The h23a piston is lower than H22 if use on f23 internals. I think by .5-1mm, if use you probably wont notice the difference not like H22 piston. No other piston can be use other than oe on frm sleeve that l can recommend. H23a piston is my choice if l'll build another engine, its perfect coz of the wrist pin offset.
Thanks. I appreciate your time and advise. 🙏🏼👍
Are Honda F23a aftermarket/ unbranded Crankshaft Rear Main Seal dependable?
Yes, as long as install correctly. Felpro are ok and also some ebay rear or front seal.
Wow, good details about G23 Vtec engine build that showed us what you did work. If you plan to run turbo , are you using aftermarket pistons, rods, ARP bolts, etc. Just use stock K20A pistons? I researched on Google, H23A Blue Top is a little different from H22A on Rods (F23A rods is same size as Blue top) and crankshaft weight, 95MM stroke, etc. Great job on engine built.
These block is strictly NA setup. If ever you decide a Turbo setup, its best to use forged pistons and forged F23 rods and offcourse use a iron sleeve block. Arp headstuds is a must on turbo setup. H23avtec bluetop rods have different length compare to F23 rods coz crank throw. 95mm for H23( f22b1,2), 97mm for F23.
The only thing that H23 bluetop and F23 have in common is the size of 55mm main bearings. You can swap the crank on block or vice versa.
Thank you very much and more coming you'll be interested in.
@@sagittnet2158 Thanks for information, 👍
@@sagittnet2158 Thanks for info!
Hi, I finished checking all my clearances and everything looks good except for the crankshaft end play. I could not get the minimum clearances of .004 to go in.
It'll harder to get it using feeler gauge once main caps are installed. Only way to do it is w,/ a dial gauge. But if you can turn your crankshaft , you'll be good.
@@sagittnet2158 Thanks for the input. I only had the rods bolted down since at that time I was doing rod clearances. I'll lube up the bearings and install main caps so I can spin the crankshaft and check if spin freely. I'll let you know how it turned out. Thanks
@@Open90 ok, if you have not install the main cap yet, you should be able to insert the feeler gauge, just give it help of a screw driver( pry it forward a bit then insert your feeler gauge.
@@sagittnet2158 That's what I did but will try again. Thanks
What brand piston rings do you use? How are NPR compared to OEM
NPR rings are good, never have a problem w/ it. I used it on my 2 Civic also and put in 150k miles and still going strong.
@@sagittnet2158 Have you ever had to gap them? And do you think Honda OEM are the same or slightly better?
@@1Man77 The rings are catered to the block sleeved wear. When cyl bore sizes are new, you need to check for proper gap and file the rings as require and when sleeve have lots of mileage on it, check the gap also but unlikely you'll be filing the rings. If your cyl bore initial measurement was out of tolelance ( out of service limits). You need to go oversize and start fresh again. Oe rings are good, l dont see the need to use OE unless l'm using brand new OE piston. You'll be good on NPR rings. What engine are you building if you dont mind me asking?
@@sagittnet2158 I'm rebuilding a F23a JDM that in my 2000 Accord. Had a blown valve that kissed piston #1 so I thought this would be a great time to somewhat replace all essential parts with genuine OE parts. I do have a set of brand new OE piston and rings but Honda has replaced the 98-01 rings with 03-07. Having so doubts not knowing if this is a good or bad thing. So I'm contemplating whether to keep the rings or pick up the NPR's. I'm leaning more towards keeping them.
@@1Man77 I'll use the NPR rings, it's a OE replacement, you shouldn't have any problem w/it as long as your cylinder wall are w/in serviceable limit.
Thinking about going this route instead of rebuilding my h22... hmm
If you have a spare car it'll be best and it's not a bad motor at all once you fix all the bugs out (if there's anything that'll show).. You'll like it, its totally different than H22.
What's the benefit to using the H22A4 block?
Lots of things actually. Let's say you already own a Prelude for example. You already have all the parts except for F23 crank and rods. No worries about plugging cylinder head, water pump( swapping gears ). You dont have to cut water cooling pipe and join f23 and H22 pipe together. But offcourse only bad side is you can't put a turbo coz of using oem pistons. But NA setup, it'll be perfect.
Thanks for the response -- Just thought I'd mention your the only person on YT (that I can find) doing G23 Content
Thank you for that
@@keithtacey27No worry and thanks also for your time.
Did you used the old main bolts to check your bearings clearances and then use new ones for final assembly?
Used same main bolts for rechecking clearances and final torqueing. Never have a problem so far. Just make sure to soak the main bolts on engine oil before tightening it.
@@sagittnet2158 Ok, thanks for confirming.
@@Open90 no problem at all.
Can you do a video on how to bolt a civic transmission to a H22? Save the h22!
That'll be hard to do coz you need a conversion plate and lots of trimming to do on the block. H22 will tear that d series tranby gears also. Good side is, H2b will be best for your setup. Aftermarket support mods are endless too.
@@sagittnet2158 having trouble finding rebuild kits so looking for other options, another racer said he swapped first gear and shaft from civic 5 spd transmission and it bolted right up?
@@Gleason512 that'll be interesting and no l haven't come accross on swapping gears from civic to F and H tranny. I'm mostly ok on F,H 1st and 2nd gear, the 3rd gear is what my concern back then coz of what l do when l line up on the fwy. But it was resolved by using m2s4 3rd gear w/c is perfect. The only way to find out really is to open a D series tranny and try it out.
@@Gleason512 lt does exist, it's a F2d that bisi was selling back in the day. I sure like to help you out but my resource is only up to F and H tranny. I sure like to see a H2d setup though.
Please use mic and remove background music all your video
Those were the days that l dont have all the equipment and still noob making videos. Noted brother..
@@sagittnet2158thank you ..brother.. i love your video
@@mohdhamdanzaidihussin6261 thanks
Hello, can I get your email?
What build you got going my friend?