Hi Del, I finally received all the components to assemble a fret saw similar to yours. Designing and building the sled was a little trial and error period but I came up with a complete solution and it works exactly as I thought it should. I’m cutting fret slots for all my known builds without any issues. Thanks for your content and sharing the technical info on your fret slot cutting saw. Keep on Building and making those videos.
Thanks Del, youve mentioned that set up a while ago in a video but I dont remember if you completely explained it. I consider this a "trade secret" and am very grateful you explained the set up.
I made a sled like Del’s. To take out that side to side wiggle, I used a little of the green masking tape on the sides of the table saw. It also helps it glide smoothly also. (Thanks for the inspiration Mr Puckett)
Built my own improved design with a Ryobi circular saw (factory outlet special for $15) and parts from McMaster Carr and built the miniature table saw is table from MDF for its stability and exact material dimensions. Works great and will cut any hardwood or softwood fretboard like butter. But this was my original design inspired spark that started it all.
I've been subscriber for a year, avid watcher, n just started watching old videos. This year motivated by you I'm going to start learn woodworking, music, n electronics. I'm gonna fallow your videos and learn from doing. Thank you for all the joy and experience you bring to our world. Cheers mate
I've got one of these and couple of blades I bought from a fellow builder coming this week. The guy said he only used it twice and just doesn't make enough guitars to justify having it. Excited to get this set up. Thanks for the helpful tips and tricks.
I thank you for this information it is so appreciated chocked full information like so many of your videos. Anyone who makes fretboards certainly knows how frustrating it can be when you take the time to cut every single slot just right ,make one mistake and your fretboard is ruined. This can potentially save so much aggravation if set up correctly. I recently went out and bought the mighty mighty mite ,in the process of ordering the blade and really looking forward to using it and saving time once again this is incredible video thank you so much for a simple solution that makes a massive difference.
Canada here. I was excited to find out Harbor freight opened a store in Ogdensburg NY. Less than an hour away. My in-laws were going there the other day so I asked them to pick me up this little table saw. They dropped it off today. And when I asked them how much I owe them they said happy early birthday 🎉 Sweet. I also ordered the malco blades. My friend I use to build guitars with wants me to get him one of these saws the next time I'm at HF. We are splitting the malco order ($100 minimum) so we are each get 2 blades.
@@PuckettCigarBoxGuitar my friend already had the 6 inch stew mac blade but saw it's on takes up a lot of space and it's a pain to set up. He was very excited about this new option. That little saw is pretty heavy. When I saw it in the store the last time I was at HF a few years ago I thought it was a toy but it seems to be built well.
Hi Dell, I love your videos, they've introduced me to a great new hobby to occupy my "well over" mid-life crisis. I'm writing to you because I've come up with a jig for this little saw. Your version was hard for me to work, I couldn't get the back and forth to slide smoothly. My version uses the factory cut slots for guides and I found it smoother and easier to use. The prototype that I built works great. Do you think something like this would be commercially viable to mass produce? If your interested to learn more I can send a picture. Thank you for your time and great videos. Ted Hietala
I have been using this Mighty Myte for 3 years now, and have cut slots on more than 70 necks. It works great I started with 0.23 blades but found it works better with 0.18 or o.20 blades which eliminates the effect of 'the wiggle". Thanks Del for showing this (I think for a second time). I would recommend to glue a small block behind the fence to protect your thumbs from the blade.
@@russyoung8357 Hi Russ. I got my blades from a different supplier ... Thurston Mfg. Co. ... The part number for the 0.023 is #121. As Del describes in his video it is difficult to adjust the tolerance on the sliders on the sled for the Mighty Mite, and when I used the 0.023 blade I sometimes got a wider cut at each end of the fret slot. So I ordered a 0.018 and a 0.020 part #122. The 0.018" is in the saw now and works well.
Great finish on the cuts Del, I use a fret saw table with the blade reversed after I've marked the neck. I have lazer cut steel templates I bought from a guitar maker in Portugal to mark the different scales. I get a great cut but have to be careful about the depth. Best thing I got recently was a fret press bit for my pillar drill. No more uneven or hammered frets. It was really cheap and it just goes straight into the drill chuck. Just have to make sure it's unplugged when I use it. Davy
Hi Del, I built one of these mid summer this year and it is a wonderful improvement over my sketchy saw work on earlier fretboards! The one thing I did with mine, in addition to what you have done is screwed a scrap of 1x2 over the blade run out where it passes under the fence, because I saw the chance to "fret" one of my fingers. I will make the little runners under the guides now that I have seen how well they work on yours! Keep the Faith! Mike
Tried it, love the idea but that littlw harbor freight saw is the little engine that almost. I bought one a little more umph on Amazon not much more success i went back to an earlier suggestion you had and now I am sold on the scroll saw ai can knock out 10 fretbords on a Saturday! Love what you do!
@@jedeckerd5969 Did the Pen tool blade work? I see it has a groove cut in the center of the blade. I just wondered if that effected the cut any. Because the other blades do not have that in the center ( just circular).
Thanks Del! This is what I was looking for, simple but effective. My table saw has a big awkward blade so I'm hoping I can get a 0.5mm blade for fret slotting.
Great channel Del. Can you tell me where you found those posters on the wall behind the table saw? I would love to get me some. Thanks and keep up the fabulous works
Build tip: remove the saw table and turn it upside down on the newly cut base of your sled. This allows you to get a snug but not too snug fit for your side rails
LOVE YOUR VIDEOS! THANK YOU! Haven't built any yet but I've started collecting boxes and a variety of wood so I'm looking forward to my first build. I'm sorry if you noted it but I couldn't find it. What is the kerf of the blade?
Thanks for all the help. I got the HF mini saw, the 310 teeth blade and built the jig. I find that the saw really bogs down during the cut. Did you ever deal with that? I can barely get through the whole slot. Maybe I should use the more aggressive blade? I’m working on a super tight budget so I want to be sure that will help before buying another blade. Any thoughts?
Your tiny crosscut slide is awesome... OMG! I'm super worried for your fingers when you hold down the work piece directly over where the blade is cutting. Those little guys are important. Maybe you could adapt a clothes pin or two as springy hold down clamps
I understand you concern Thomas, however, the blade is much to low (it can't go through the top of the fret board to bite a finger). You might want to look away when watching scroll saw artists ;-)
Trying to buy a 110 tooth blade from their website. It indicates the minimum order is $100. That means I would have to buy 4 blades. Is there any way around that? The saw itself was only $38!
@@PuckettCigarBoxGuitar I'm sorry i wasn't clear....i meant in building the jig...the slot where the blade protrudes...was it cut with the .023 ...or maybe a thicker blade to give a little room
Del, I wasted money on that saw. Last one in Washington at the time. Hasn't enough guts to cut balsa, let alone hardwood slots. Did you change the motor?
It doesn't appear that the support collars are on the site anymore (not that I could find anyway). I wonder if two 3" blades would work. Or does anyone else have ideas?
Thanks Del... Love all your videos , they have been a great help to me with my builds !!... What did you use to cut the blade slot in your jig ... the mity mite or something else ?
Curious: I went to the Malco website, used the dropdown menu to filter for the .023 1/2" arbor 4" jeweler's blade and the only one that came up was the 310 teeth blade, but I entered the item # and there the 110 teeth blade appeared.. AND: Nowhere could I find the support collars, I used the site's search function and came up with "nothing found"... is there an item# for it???!!!
@@PuckettCigarBoxGuitar Hi Del! Love the videos and the workmanship. It’s inspirational to say the least. Which do you find works better or worse? 310T or 110T?
Do you have the part number for the blade support collars?? I got the Mighty Mite Saw today. I want to order a couple of blades and the collars for the blades. Thanks!!!
@@PuckettCigarBoxGuitar I just got a response today. The collars ship with the blades. Unfortunately, they have a $100 minimum order and I would have to buy four blades. I may have to look for another source that doesn't have a minimum order.
@@davidglynnguitars8119 i want a blade too..how about doing a group order? we only need 2 more guys to join in. I was not able to find a substitute blade.
Try a scroll saw method, usually can find a scroll saw second hand for 40 or 50 bucks, reverse the blade so it faces backwards. Then carefully mark fretboard using a template and slowly line up marked fretboard and cut the marked area being careful not to cut to deeply. I have built over 500 guitars using this method with zero failures, just take your time, and once you get comfortable you can cut one fretboard every five or six minutes. Set it up and practice on some scrap. Good luck and happy new year.
Well, here was an unwelcome surprise... I went to the Malcosaw website, selected the jeweler's saw blade I wanted, went to checkout filled in all the info, cc # etc, hit place order and got bumped back to the checkout page with "your current order totals $25.04 - your order must be a minimum of $100.00" ???!!!! ... Minimum $100.00??!! well, that's a dealbreaker... no way I'm ordering 4 sawblades... Crap...
I’m with you brother. Same here. When I first started looking at this Amazon had some for around 19.00 free shipping. I kept looking and watching these videos. When I decided to try, o more blades this size on Amazon. I keep look around.
@@sixstring001 Lets do a group purchase...I see 3 guys not including me that want a blade. I'd be willing to front the $100 (plus shipping) if I had 3 more buyers
@@sixstring001 I did find a 4 inch 0.023 kerf blade from Penn Tools (iirc the name) for around $25 and that's what I'm using now. The Penn Tool blade comes without the support collars but you could probably use a wide aluminum washer. I'm using the support collars I got with a 0.25 kerf blade a few weeks earlier (I thought I'd ordered a .023 but, no... and believe me that .002 difference makes a difference) Theses blades are like the Holy Grail
Hi Del, I finally received all the components to assemble a fret saw similar to yours.
Designing and building the sled was a little trial and error period but I came up with a complete solution and it works exactly as I thought it should. I’m cutting fret slots for all my known builds without any issues.
Thanks for your content and sharing the technical info on your fret slot cutting saw.
Keep on Building and making those videos.
you’re leveling up!! i like it 👍🏽😎
Thanks Del, youve mentioned that set up a while ago in a video but I dont remember if you completely explained it. I consider this a "trade secret" and am very grateful you explained the set up.
Mate, this gets me up and running. I have been hand-sawing frets against a set square for years. Much appreciated. Chisel Monkey.
I made a sled like Del’s. To take out that side to side wiggle, I used a little of the green masking tape on the sides of the table saw. It also helps it glide smoothly also. (Thanks for the inspiration Mr Puckett)
Built my own improved design with a Ryobi circular saw (factory outlet special for $15) and parts from McMaster Carr and built the miniature table saw is table from MDF for its stability and exact material dimensions. Works great and will cut any hardwood or softwood fretboard like butter. But this was my original design inspired spark that started it all.
I've been subscriber for a year, avid watcher, n just started watching old videos. This year motivated by you I'm going to start learn woodworking, music, n electronics. I'm gonna fallow your videos and learn from doing. Thank you for all the joy and experience you bring to our world. Cheers mate
Del - yours is one of the best instructional channels on You Tube! Thanks for sharing your techniques, innovations, and trade secrets!
I've got one of these and couple of blades I bought from a fellow builder coming this week. The guy said he only used it twice and just doesn't make enough guitars to justify having it. Excited to get this set up. Thanks for the helpful tips and tricks.
I thank you for this information it is so appreciated chocked full information like so many of your videos. Anyone who makes fretboards certainly knows how frustrating it can be when you take the time to cut every single slot just right ,make one mistake and your fretboard is ruined. This can potentially save so much aggravation if set up correctly. I recently went out and bought the mighty mighty mite ,in the process of ordering the blade and really looking forward to using it and saving time once again this is incredible video thank you so much for a simple solution that makes a massive difference.
What size blade (thickness) did you buy and where ?😊
Canada here. I was excited to find out Harbor freight opened a store in Ogdensburg NY. Less than an hour away. My in-laws were going there the other day so I asked them to pick me up this little table saw. They dropped it off today. And when I asked them how much I owe them they said happy early birthday 🎉 Sweet. I also ordered the malco blades. My friend I use to build guitars with wants me to get him one of these saws the next time I'm at HF. We are splitting the malco order ($100 minimum) so we are each get 2 blades.
those blades will last forever if you take care of them
@@PuckettCigarBoxGuitar my friend already had the 6 inch stew mac blade but saw it's on takes up a lot of space and it's a pain to set up. He was very excited about this new option. That little saw is pretty heavy. When I saw it in the store the last time I was at HF a few years ago I thought it was a toy but it seems to be built well.
Hi Dell,
I love your videos, they've introduced me to a great new hobby to occupy my "well over" mid-life crisis.
I'm writing to you because I've come up with a jig for this little saw. Your version was hard for me to work, I couldn't get the back and forth to slide smoothly.
My version uses the factory cut slots for guides and I found it smoother and easier to use.
The prototype that I built works great. Do you think something like this would be commercially viable to mass produce?
If your interested to learn more I can send a picture.
Thank you for your time and great videos.
Ted Hietala
Happy New Year! Many thanks for the sharing and wishing you and yours a healthy and joyous 2021!
I have been using this Mighty Myte for 3 years now, and have cut slots on more than 70 necks. It works great I started with 0.23 blades but found it works better with 0.18 or o.20 blades which eliminates the effect of 'the wiggle". Thanks Del for showing this (I think for a second time). I would recommend to glue a small block behind the fence to protect your thumbs from the blade.
CrackerJack did you order part number JS402312000 or part number CT402312000 for your .023 blades?
@@russyoung8357 Hi Russ. I got my blades from a different supplier ... Thurston Mfg. Co. ... The part number for the 0.023 is #121. As Del describes in his video it is difficult to adjust the tolerance on the sliders on the sled for the Mighty Mite, and when I used the 0.023 blade I sometimes got a wider cut at each end of the fret slot. So I ordered a 0.018 and a 0.020 part #122. The 0.018" is in the saw now and works well.
Great finish on the cuts Del, I use a fret saw table with the blade reversed after I've marked the neck. I have lazer cut steel templates I bought from a guitar maker in Portugal to mark the different scales. I get a great cut but have to be careful about the depth.
Best thing I got recently was a fret press bit for my pillar drill. No more uneven or hammered frets. It was really cheap and it just goes straight into the drill chuck. Just have to make sure it's unplugged when I use it.
Davy
I went to HF and picked up a saw and have ordered 4 blades. I might put the ones I don't need on EBAY. Thanks for the great idea!
Hi Del, I built one of these mid summer this year and it is a wonderful improvement over my sketchy saw work on earlier fretboards! The one thing I did with mine, in addition to what you have done is screwed a scrap of 1x2 over the blade run out where it passes under the fence, because I saw the chance to "fret" one of my fingers. I will make the little runners under the guides now that I have seen how well they work on yours! Keep the Faith!
Mike
Tried it, love the idea but that littlw harbor freight saw is the little engine that almost.
I bought one a little more umph on Amazon not much more success i went back to an earlier suggestion you had and now I am sold on the scroll saw ai can knock out 10 fretbords on a Saturday!
Love what you do!
Sorry for the Type o's
I stopped by harbor freight and picked up one and ordered a blade. Making a slide top tomorrow after church. Great video thanks
where did you get you blade? did you buy 4 from Malco? I'll buy one from you if you have an extra.
@@russyoung8357 I got it from Penn tools . I was able to just get 1 for $26. The box says toolmex.com
But I went though Penntool.com
@@jedeckerd5969 Did the Pen tool blade work? I see it has a groove cut in the center of the blade. I just wondered if that effected the cut any. Because the other blades do not have that in the center ( just circular).
Thanks Del you're a great help, I've only been at it for 1 year but with your help I'm turning out some pretty awesome guitars
Thanks Del! This is what I was looking for, simple but effective. My table saw has a big awkward blade so I'm hoping I can get a 0.5mm blade for fret slotting.
Thank you very much 😊
Happy New Year Del, joyed the video.
Great channel Del. Can you tell me where you found those posters on the wall behind the table saw? I would love to get me some. Thanks and keep up the fabulous works
Happy New Year Del !!! Thanks for taking the time to share with us..Enjoy All your videos ... Keep'em coming !!!
Build tip: remove the saw table and turn it upside down on the newly cut base of your sled. This allows you to get a snug but not too snug fit for your side rails
Great video. Have a happy new year.
LOVE YOUR VIDEOS! THANK YOU! Haven't built any yet but I've started collecting boxes and a variety of wood so I'm looking forward to my first build.
I'm sorry if you noted it but I couldn't find it. What is the kerf of the blade?
Thanks for all the help. I got the HF mini saw, the 310 teeth blade and built the jig. I find that the saw really bogs down during the cut. Did you ever deal with that? I can barely get through the whole slot. Maybe I should use the more aggressive blade? I’m working on a super tight budget so I want to be sure that will help before buying another blade. Any thoughts?
Your tiny crosscut slide is awesome...
OMG! I'm super worried for your fingers when you hold down the work piece directly over where the blade is cutting. Those little guys are important. Maybe you could adapt a clothes pin or two as springy hold down clamps
I understand you concern Thomas, however, the blade is much to low (it can't go through the top of the fret board to bite a finger). You might want to look away when watching scroll saw artists ;-)
Wha'gwan & happy NY2021 in 3 & a bit hours....well at least it is inna Scotland !.... Yin Lurve tae aw ye CBGitter peeps ! Keep on strummin'.....😎
Thanks Del, that's very helpful, great job explaining how you do what you do 👍. Happy new year 🎊🎉
Thanks Del..
Trying to buy a 110 tooth blade from their website. It indicates the minimum order is $100. That means I would have to buy 4 blades. Is there any way around that? The saw itself was only $38!
Question: Did you cut the slot with the same .023 blade...or a bit thicker blade?...Love your videos.
i have had the same blade on for years …
@@PuckettCigarBoxGuitar I'm sorry i wasn't clear....i meant in building the jig...the slot where the blade protrudes...was it cut with the .023 ...or maybe a thicker blade to give a little room
Awesome
Del, I wasted money on that saw. Last one in Washington at the time. Hasn't enough guts to cut balsa, let alone hardwood slots. Did you change the motor?
Thanks man!
Hi Del...any idea of the kerf (cutting width) of the blade in your saw. I'd like to do the same thing, but with a full size table saw.
.023 inch kerf...I see it now later in your video. Thanks.
It doesn't appear that the support collars are on the site anymore (not that I could find anyway). I wonder if two 3" blades would work. Or does anyone else have ideas?
Hey bud- quick question. Can you briefly explain tooth count you prefer and why ? THANKS !!
I have that saw and never use... NOW I have a reason !!
Thanks Del... Love all your videos , they have been a great help to me with my builds !!... What did you use to cut the blade slot in your jig ... the mity mite or something else ?
Great info I think I need to upgrade my game
Curious: I went to the Malco website, used the dropdown menu to filter for the .023 1/2" arbor 4" jeweler's blade and the only one that came up was the 310 teeth blade, but I entered the item # and there the 110 teeth blade appeared..
AND: Nowhere could I find the support collars, I used the site's search function and came up with "nothing found"... is there an item# for it???!!!
i would email them... all mine were gifts and you are right there is no part number for the collars
I emailed Malco and they said that the supports will come free with the blades. FYI
@@bombaben1 wow! Excellent! I'll be ordering a few blades then!!! Thanks!
@@PuckettCigarBoxGuitar Hi Del! Love the videos and the workmanship. It’s inspirational to say the least.
Which do you find works better or worse? 310T or 110T?
How do you decide where the holes are drilled for the tuning machines? Do you use different jigs etc? How do you get the holes perpendicular?
I got the same set up and blade. Have you ever had the blade warp?
I looked up the blades and they are $27 per on that site. Have you tried alternatives? I'm pretty tight on cash.
that’s actually a good price 🤓
Do you use the blade that came with you saw? Is it the correct thickness ?
.
i use .023 kerf
Do you have the part number for the blade support collars?? I got the Mighty Mite Saw today. I want to order a couple of blades and the collars for the blades. Thanks!!!
no part numbers for the collars.... i think the ship with saw blades . email them and ask and let me know.
@@PuckettCigarBoxGuitar I sent an message to them. I'll pass on the info when I get a response. Thanks for the reply!!!
@@PuckettCigarBoxGuitar I just got a response today. The collars ship with the blades. Unfortunately, they have a $100 minimum order and I would have to buy four blades. I may have to look for another source that doesn't have a minimum order.
@@davidglynnguitars8119 i want a blade too..how about doing a group order? we only need 2 more guys to join in. I was not able to find a substitute blade.
@@russyoung8357 I'd like two, one of each, course and fine. Good to have a backup. I'd be willing to work with you on a group order.
Unfortunately that gear is only available in the US, I am still searching for a reliable way to fret.
Try a scroll saw method, usually can find a scroll saw second hand for 40 or 50 bucks, reverse the blade so it faces backwards. Then carefully mark fretboard using a template and slowly line up marked fretboard and cut the marked area being careful not to cut to deeply. I have built over 500 guitars using this method with zero failures, just take your time, and once you get comfortable you can cut one fretboard every five or six minutes. Set it up and practice on some scrap.
Good luck and happy new year.
Mg guitars has a fantastic setup
Is it possible to make fret slots manually, like with a file? Thinking bout making a cbg but don’t wanna partake in buying saws 😂
a small square and a coping saw will work
I am making this. I have the saw.
Well, here was an unwelcome surprise... I went to the Malcosaw website, selected the jeweler's saw blade I wanted, went to checkout filled in all the info, cc # etc, hit place order and got bumped back to the checkout page with "your current order totals $25.04 - your order must be a minimum of $100.00"
???!!!! ... Minimum $100.00??!! well, that's a dealbreaker... no way I'm ordering 4 sawblades...
Crap...
I’m with you brother. Same here. When I first started looking at this Amazon had some for around 19.00 free shipping. I kept looking and watching these videos. When I decided to try, o more blades this size on Amazon. I keep look around.
@@sixstring001 Lets do a group purchase...I see 3 guys not including me that want a blade. I'd be willing to front the $100 (plus shipping) if I had 3 more buyers
@@sixstring001 I did find a 4 inch 0.023 kerf blade from Penn Tools (iirc the name) for around $25 and that's what I'm using now.
The Penn Tool blade comes without the support collars but you could probably use a wide aluminum washer. I'm using the support collars I got with a 0.25 kerf blade a few weeks earlier (I thought I'd ordered a .023 but, no... and believe me that .002 difference makes a difference)
Theses blades are like the Holy Grail