Yes, finding the spine is relatively easy. I hod the top piece and press the bottom down on a hard surface while trying to rotate it under pressure, I have yet to see a video showing where to build the guides in relation to the spine. I build both spinning and fly rods, and have not seen or read any crystal clear instructions on which side the guides go. I have investigated the spine on several top prices fly rods, and the guides are placed in different angles to the spine, which is an indication that even the most expensive rods ( american handcrafted inclusive) are built too fast. I´d love to have a thorough explanation. Even on the last rod I bought which is a 995$ rod I can see the guide foots being visible through the wrapping, a sloppy job.
I spine the rod when gluing the reelseat. While the glue is still wet spine the rod and turn the reelseat on to the spine. If you use Winn grips you must find the spine when gluing the grips.
I do archery, the stiffer side(s) would be the "spine". What you have there marked at 12 and 6 o'clock would be the weaker side and at 3 and 9 o'clock is the "spine" cause its stiffer. But anyhow, this is a good method for me to do spine indexing for my arrows.
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Yup, it's amazing that the entire rod building history of "fine the spine" is always the same theory repeated over and over. You're actually right in the way you define the "spine" as the stiffest side of the rod. The approach and application of the fishing world is quite interesting as what is attempted is to find "stability" and flexing comfort. If we were to set the guides on the stiffer side of the rod, whenever fighting a fish OR casting the rod would have a tendency to "twist" and get towards it's softer sides. Having the stiffer side on the sides brings the stability needed for casting or fighting a fish. (Preventing the rod from rolling) The challenge and debate really happens with fly-fishing rod because of the weighted line and action the angler is trying to put in the rod, in an ideal world we would want the same action back and forward cast to be able to really load the rod and transmit the energy to the line. I think most rocket scientist fly fishing guy like to dream about the perfect rod and purist will tell your that only split bamboo rods can achieve a completely balanced flex. Anyhow... Lots of theories out there and not enough fish netted if you ask me.
When I get 2 and one is more prominent I also go with it. I then look down the blank and see where the drop is then mark it. Great set up might have to try and replicate it.
I’m trying find the spine on a 9 foot xx-heavy with an approximate rating 80-150# for shark fishing in the beach. I got a spine finder from mud hole but I didn’t get anything to lock it down with. I don’t want to accidentally build it off the spine. Would this method work for the blank that I have? Do you have any other suggestions? Thank you
@@samuelrobles5944 I have tackle Industries blank it was recommended to me by a buddy so I thought I’d give it a try, I’m planning on doing a jawbone extreme 2.0 Hammer next if this build goes well
Same process for each individual section, then again as an assembly. You really want to make sure there isnt any torque/torsion on the blank when loaded.
Seen a lot of videos on UA-cam but this is the first time seeing it done in this fashion. Like this method much better. Thanks!
Thank you sir, appreciate the feedback
Yes, finding the spine is relatively easy. I hod the top piece and press the bottom down on a hard surface while trying to rotate it under pressure, I have yet to see a video showing where to build the guides in relation to the spine. I build both spinning and fly rods, and have not seen or read any crystal clear instructions on which side the guides go. I have investigated the spine on several top prices fly rods, and the guides are placed in different angles to the spine, which is an indication that even the most expensive rods ( american handcrafted inclusive) are built too fast. I´d love to have a thorough explanation. Even on the last rod I bought which is a 995$ rod I can see the guide foots being visible through the wrapping, a sloppy job.
Great idea! What and how are attaching to the tip
We’re using a small bearing with a rubber tube
I spine the rod when gluing the reelseat. While the glue is still wet spine the rod and turn the reelseat on to the spine. If you use Winn grips you must find the spine when gluing the grips.
I do archery, the stiffer side(s) would be the "spine". What you have there marked at 12 and 6 o'clock would be the weaker side and at 3 and 9 o'clock is the "spine" cause its stiffer. But anyhow, this is a good method for me to do spine indexing for my arrows.
Yup, it's amazing that the entire rod building history of "fine the spine" is always the same theory repeated over and over. You're actually right in the way you define the "spine" as the stiffest side of the rod. The approach and application of the fishing world is quite interesting as what is attempted is to find "stability" and flexing comfort. If we were to set the guides on the stiffer side of the rod, whenever fighting a fish OR casting the rod would have a tendency to "twist" and get towards it's softer sides. Having the stiffer side on the sides brings the stability needed for casting or fighting a fish. (Preventing the rod from rolling)
The challenge and debate really happens with fly-fishing rod because of the weighted line and action the angler is trying to put in the rod, in an ideal world we would want the same action back and forward cast to be able to really load the rod and transmit the energy to the line. I think most rocket scientist fly fishing guy like to dream about the perfect rod and purist will tell your that only split bamboo rods can achieve a completely balanced flex. Anyhow... Lots of theories out there and not enough fish netted if you ask me.
@ Thanks for the comment! Learning something new again today!
When I get 2 and one is more prominent I also go with it. I then look down the blank and see where the drop is then mark it. Great set up might have to try and replicate it.
It’s a pretty simple setup that really helps out
Would you describe the article that you put on the tip. I know the sewer plug but what you put on the tip snuggle on tight.
@@jaymac5172 we use a roller bearing and some poly flow tubing.
What did you use on the tip for it to stay on? Plz help....
I’m trying find the spine on a 9 foot xx-heavy with an approximate rating 80-150# for shark fishing in the beach. I got a spine finder from mud hole but I didn’t get anything to lock it down with. I don’t want to accidentally build it off the spine. Would this method work for the blank that I have? Do you have any other suggestions?
Thank you
It will work, but you’ll need a heavier item to load the blank with
@@samuelrobles5944 do you think a 5 or 10 ounce wait would work? Or should I just tinker with it until i get a good flex on it?
@@BowedUpWitMike you might need a little more than 5oz to get the blank to load. You using a jawbone blank?
@@samuelrobles5944 I have tackle Industries blank it was recommended to me by a buddy so I thought I’d give it a try, I’m planning on doing a jawbone extreme 2.0 Hammer next if this build goes well
So on your deciding mark if you are building a spinning rod you build off the side of your marks? Or the opposite?
On the opposite
What do you do for finding the spine on a 2 piece blank.
Ralph Winkles I do them one at a time, and then as an assembly. It is important to find the spine on your top section(s) than the bottom sections.
Same process for each individual section, then again as an assembly. You really want to make sure there isnt any torque/torsion on the blank when loaded.
🏆