A tip for the straps is to NOT line all 4 layers and stitch them at once. Trying to keep 4 layers (with 2 stretch layers) aligned is a nightmare. I would recommend laying one pocket down, stitch around it, the next pocket, stitch it, and then the last 2 together. That way you only have to worry about 2 layers at a time and won’t be worrying about the middle layers moving and possible missing stitches. You also don’t need to double stitch the straps. There isn’t a lot of force pushing the straps open from the inside. The real force is where the straps connect to the bag. Remember the more stitches the more holes you poke and can actually be counter productive at points.
If you’re sewing a lot I would recommend getting some plastic sewing clips instead of pins. They’re so much easier to work with and won’t poke your finger. The best thing is they won’t poke holes in your fabric and are easily adjusted.
Hey I really like the continues pocket idea. I am thinking of applying it on a 40-50L myog backpack. Would you recomend it also for that size of a pack? Are the items inside the outer pocket loose and bouncing around? Would it be a good idea to add a dividing piece of webbing in between the water bottle part and the front part?
A tip I figured out is when cutting the thread after your stitch is done is to cut it right against the fabric. It means you waste less thread and you don’t have to cut the thread and then also trim the excess thread after. The waste adds up and if you’re doing a lot of stitches it saves a lot of time trimming thread. That way you can cut it close and then just have to trim the beginning thread pieces.
Cheers friend, I'm out thru hiking atm and don't actually know! It's a 50+ year old singer full metal home model though. I'll check when I'm back and try to remember to let you know.
A tip for the straps is to NOT line all 4 layers and stitch them at once. Trying to keep 4 layers (with 2 stretch layers) aligned is a nightmare. I would recommend laying one pocket down, stitch around it, the next pocket, stitch it, and then the last 2 together. That way you only have to worry about 2 layers at a time and won’t be worrying about the middle layers moving and possible missing stitches. You also don’t need to double stitch the straps. There isn’t a lot of force pushing the straps open from the inside. The real force is where the straps connect to the bag. Remember the more stitches the more holes you poke and can actually be counter productive at points.
If you’re sewing a lot I would recommend getting some plastic sewing clips instead of pins. They’re so much easier to work with and won’t poke your finger. The best thing is they won’t poke holes in your fabric and are easily adjusted.
Hey I really like the continues pocket idea. I am thinking of applying it on a 40-50L myog backpack. Would you recomend it also for that size of a pack? Are the items inside the outer pocket loose and bouncing around? Would it be a good idea to add a dividing piece of webbing in between the water bottle part and the front part?
Viewing with great interest. Looking forward to seeing how the packs perform on the trail soon! Cheers W
A tip I figured out is when cutting the thread after your stitch is done is to cut it right against the fabric. It means you waste less thread and you don’t have to cut the thread and then also trim the excess thread after. The waste adds up and if you’re doing a lot of stitches it saves a lot of time trimming thread. That way you can cut it close and then just have to trim the beginning thread pieces.
A new day, a change of shorts! Thanks for the videos, they're helping me a lot with my first pa'lante fastpack Frankenstein.
nice video!
What kind of your sewing machine model number?
Cheers friend, I'm out thru hiking atm and don't actually know! It's a 50+ year old singer full metal home model though. I'll check when I'm back and try to remember to let you know.
What the material bro ? Can you share info
Black -> Dutchware gear's 300D PackCloth. Yellow -> X-Pac X21-RC
@@twofoolswalking2109 many thanks brother
Mod the straps to something like this
ua-cam.com/video/j3KCVTxW2Hc/v-deo.html
So much easier to get on and off
I don’t think there would be enough friction between the body and ‘strap’ to hold the backpack on.
Yes you have to balance the weight a bit and there is the other traditional strap to help out. Plus this is only for pack weight under 10lbs really.
Have you tried this? Would love to see the set up you’re rocking, did you just cut the strap on a normal pack or make your own custom one?
Ray Jardine that I built with some design changes
Sweet man! I’m really interesting in this concept can you send me some pics of the pack.