Angus, you should really clarify the role of extrusion multiplier in the clearance / tolerance test. Whether or not parts get stuck, yes, is influenced by the precision of your printer, but also can be influenced a lot by the extrusion multiplier. If you have it (too) high, the layers line will be thicker than they should be and the parts will fuse. So if you get bad results on your test, it MAY be an imprecise printer, but it may as well be an indication that your extrusion multiplier is too high, or in general your extruder settings are bad (too many steps per mm etc.)
or you forget to enable some setting like compensate wall overlap. (i actually need to up my steps per mm. since it does 96 instead of 100mm.) but i forgot to turn on wall overlap compensation and my parts fused like hell
Hi Angus, I purchased your clearance gauge a couple months ago while learning more about 3D printing during quarantine, when I printed it I was able to unlock to 0.3mm. I just learned more tuning steps over the last couple days and I was able to unlock all clearances without a tool! thanks for making awesome content!
Good lord, the way some people complain about $2 astounds me. One would think Angus was behind the Epipen or Aids meds price hike. I don't care if he make $100k selling his last tolerance test he made. The man is trying to make a living being a content creator and is provide his years of experience and knowledge for free for the masses for the most part. If the man wants to take the time to put his skills to use and design something that can help the rest of us work at dialing in our printers the best we can and charge $2 for it more power to him. I'll gladly pay the man $2 for the hours it took him to make something from nothing but the thoughts in his head. Just like Joe, Joel, Tom and everyone else either making side money or a living providing a service that is for the most part free to most everyone, unless you choose to sub to their patreon, and they happen make or design something i want to print or want to have ill gladly pay less than the price of a Bacon Egg and Cheese biscuit for it. If paying the $2 for a mans time somehow offends you then don't buy the dang thing, and if $2 for something you don't need is going to break the bank you have vastly bigger problems in your life.
These are people who haven't spent the hours and hours making and testing their own models. Angus probably has 8-15 hours into this not including print times and filament. So yea, quit your bitching people. Besides Angus made the old one FREE! And there's nothing wrong with the old one! The key was the weak link and that's easily redesigned.
I think people just get annoyed with the pay wall. I'm sure he makes tons off of his content too, but if people don't want to pay $2, don't pay it. Make your own and Open Source it. I'm sure Angus won't send anyone a cease and desist or anything. Haha
so what happens when i design something similar myself and upload it for free? because this is litterally not even a fucking 5 minute design. and this guy has the gall to demand 2 dollars for it.
Just bought this model and will probably pony up for the sphericons. Great to have other options for supporting you directly, and keep up the excellent work!
I'm printing this now; Angus you rock! I can't thank you enough for how much you contribute to the hobby, simply amazing! I've recently begun designing my own objects in fusion 360 and I know how much work goes into something like this. I'm always excited to print your designs! :)
Printed this last night and was pleasantly surprised to see the 0.15mm rotated with just a little thumb pressure. I used a CR-10 with Raptor PLA and the old Cura with 0.2mm layer heights. Thanks for creating this clearance and tolerance test! Great channel!
I just got my Prusa Mini (first 3d printer) and this is the only stl I have paid for (so far) First print of it got down to .2mm, reprinted it tonight and took it off the bed immediately and got the .15mm tab free with a screwdriver.
Cool model! Its not only the printers clearance and tolerance that matter but also the slicer. I design tiny print-in-place articulated models, and when I switched from Makerbots own slicer (I have an old Replicator 2) to S3D my printer suddenly printed a lot better and handled tolerance a lot better (default S3D settings)
finally after years of pursuing a 3d printer, parents and brothers chiped in and gifted me an ender 3 pro. At last I will be able to print your models, I am looking for to finish a proper calibration to try your torture models, really love those desings, now i wil enjoy even more your videos
Thanks for the model. I printed it on my SeeMeCNC Artemis delta printer. I needed to pry the 0.15mm lever with a screwdriver, but then it moved freely. All others moved without tools. I am printing it a second time (adding a few more top layers... I forgot that I set it to .15mm layer height), and will let folks at our local MakerSpace watch the initial tab releasing... should be fun.
First test print for the LeapFrog Bolt Pro and some interesting results! 1. Printer using the suggested settings in PLA. 2. 0,5mm just falls out of the main body! 3. 0,2mm locked but 0,15mm moves! 4. With a little persuasion now all move, but still I kep dropping 0,5mm out of the body. Worth the money to test out the new printer. Thanks Angus!
I just downloaded this tolerance test and printed it on my Prusa i3 Mk3 in sliver PLA. All the sections were free moving although the 0.15 one needed some initial persuasion. It's great to know what I can get away with in my design. Thanks Angus.
Angus, I just downloaded the new one but repetier host complained that it wasnt manifold! But I went ahead and sliced it anyway using cura. And it still worked! PS. I think you are doing a great job helping with the 3d community so please ignore the nay sayers and put downs.
So I purchased this file the other day just to see where my E3P was with clearance and tolerance. First test the .2 and .15 were completely seized. A couple flow calibrations and my second test was perfect. .2 and .15 were unlocked without using tools and without using a brim or raft. This was a great puzzle and challenge to get my printer just a little bit more dialed in!
Have you considered adding a fillet to the bottom edge so that first layer squish doesn't affect it so much? Also, thanks for making the old (yet improved) test free.
My new Prusa Mini+ just passed. 0.15 needed a quick pop with a screwdriver to release it - I used PETG so I expected 0.15 to stick a little - but slides freely...tightly, but freely. Yay!
@@MakersMuse i don't have a "default" . I tend to print with setting that adjusted to the model that i print. That being said, with 0.3mm layer height I got the 0.3 disc free.... I will try the 0.15mm height next
Ha! All five! AnkerMake 5M 'Precision' settings. Easily worth a couple of quid as a contribution to the author. Thanks for making me smile today, Angus!!
I printed it successfully on my CR6 SE. I had to apply significant force to break the.15 mm one lose but it worked. The .15 is a bit tight but the .02mm clearance is very smooth.
Things get cloudy with time so it’s nice to go back to a gauge printed on your own printer to “feel” the clearances. My sidewinder bed isn’t flat for shit but it’s still in it’s range. Good one Angus!
Both my printers passed the test with flying colors. Of course I already knew they would. Sure I'm in for two bucks just to give it a whirl. Don't understand the complaints about two bucks though. I've spent more for a lot less. Nicely done Angus.
My first run was a fail, lol. I could only break free the .05 I set the slicing tolerance to Exclusive, see if that helps. I will adjust a parameter at a time to really identify ware my issue is. Fun print though!
Could you do a detailed video on how to conquer the clearance test? I.e. common symptoms, as they exhibit themselves on the clearance test, and solutions such as issues caused by zitting, stringing, over extrusion, etc.
I printed it and the 0.15 clearance was no good. I lowered my extrusion multiplier from 1.05 to 1.00 and print temperature by 5C, and it the .15 was free after slight screwdriver pressure on the tab. I forgot that I had recalibrated my delta printer as it was printing slightly oversize, and never changed the extrusion multiplier. What do the tops of your print sections look like? If they are fully solid all the way across the infill, and have slight blobs at the end of the infill lines, you could try lowering your extrusion multiplier or adjusting your steps/mm (both have the same effect).
Just tested my brand new CR-6 SE. Getting the part to lift was a real challenge - refrigerator - hot water, cold water, hot water, knife and spatula! I didn't know about the flat blade screw driver allowance. That made me happy because it freed up 0.2, although the 0.15 did snap instead of rotating. I sliced using CURA 4.9 with all default settings because I mostly use Linux, not Windows. The Creality version of the slicer was Windows only.
Cool testing model. Printed that with my testing profile in S3D and 0.2 needed to be lose with screwdriver. 0.3 works great. I'll need some tuning, but I'm happy with this result. :) Thanks again for test model.
It's worth noting that as well as getting the first layer right, calibrating your extrusion for tests like these is critical. Under or over extrusion will drastically change the results
Just bought the STL.... Now lets see how my PETG, NYLON & PLA stack up! My CR-10S is highly modified and dialed in tight, I can print down to .05 so lets see!
Thank you for this test!!! Bought it a while ago and tested it on my Flashforge Adventurer 3, where i only got to 0.4... :( I've got my self a B2X300 and spent like 40 hours to get it run smoothly - Spoiler: Guess what the solution was? I needed to oil my Filament as well, much more than i expected ... - but now i got to 0.15 with a little of force to breake it free. After all this struggle your test brought back the joy of owning the B2X300, so yeah thank you again! =)
Hi. I have an Ender3, stock. I made it down to .15. I made it thanks to a well leveled bed and calibrated e-steps. I'm using Cura 3.6.0. RI'm still having trouble believing it. $2 well spend. Thanks.
After an initial problem, in which my first layer solidified so nothing moved, I turned off "drop to build plate" in CURA and printed the new gauge with a 5mm support on my Ender 3. Using stock 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer height and cheap (£11.50/kg off Amazon) PLA at 200 deg with glass bed at 60 deg, I get down to unlocking 0.2mm, which isn't even that stiff; 0.15 looks like it has separation at the top and bottom (I can just slip the corner of a sheet of paper into the gap), but it won't move at all, presumably seized on the sloping sections. Now I just need to sort my first layer issue. :) Update: With the aid of a short screwdriver simply as a lever against the arm, I've successfully freed the 0.15mm wheel too. So I think my Ender 3 setup must be pretty good!
Printed today on Aldi Coccon Create. Spliced using Cura, Good results all wheels free and spinning 0.15 with no slop through to 0.5 very loose.. Using PLA and settings as recommended. Printed at 200 Deg. C
Oh dang, I just bought the original tolerance test a few days ago. Never mind, it's not like it was expensive. I'll probably end up buying this one too.
Just did it! 0.15mm free on Ender3 running kipper at 100mm/s (for all speeds except outer wall at 75mm/s). No raft, 3 walls, 0.2 layer height in 2.5hrs. 4000mm/s/s max_accel.
Printed on a QiDi X-Pro and all tollerance fingers opened freely appart from the 0.15mm which required a little force to free it up. Used black Filaprint X3 PLA with 230 Deg C extrusion temp, 50 Deg C bed temp (probably not required) 60mm/s, 50% first layer speed, 1mm retraction, 0.8mm coast, 30% infill. Could do even better if I could eliminate the occasional zit! Thank you Angus. Maybe you need to make a more challenging one next time?
.15 and up were free on the Original Version on a (very well) tuned Anet A8 with the 2040 aluminum frame upgrade:) 0.1 Might come loose with some extra force but the key won't take it.
Just printed this on a new Ender 3. Either I printed this wrong or it's sort of disappointing as a fidget spinner. The 0.5 just pops out, and so does the 0.4 with minimal spin. Can't spin with only 3 sides. May just have to glue them in. The gauge side seems fine. All moved easily, even in the 0.15. Printed on a raft with 0.15 layer thickness.
If you want to use one like a fidget spinner definitely grab the version 1, this one is designed more as a functional tool so you know what kind of movement you can expect from your printer. Clearly 0.4mm is too large, but maybe 0.2mm gives a good movement without too much play? The center part is designed to pop free once you unlock all clearances :) it has a special code on it to another youtube video.
JFYI, the "free" old tolerance gauge will cost you a buck or three. I also bought the new one (although I vaguely recall that it was once available to Patreon supporters). Thanks, Angus.
Just a thought... My printer appears to have a magic number of 0.04mm (ie. full step motion). This is based on 1.8 degree steppers, with 8mm pitch screw. ie. 8mm / (360 / 1.8) = 0.04mm I’m guessing this may be a reasonably common printer configuration? The point is that you therefore want to optimally work in multiples of 0.04mm increments. So, normal 0.2mm layers are OK, but instead of 0.1mm (for fine), you really want 0.12mm or 0.08mm. Likewise, for clearance you'd also optimally want to work in multiples of 0.04mm So instead of a test going down to 0.15mm clearance, I’d really want either 0.16mm or 0.12mm to test my printer's minimum clearance.
Hello Angus, thanks for all your videos, great info, can you make a video on how to calibrate the printer to get the best prints when printing models that have moving parts in one piece, I tried some models but the parts are fuse together or hard to loose them, thanks for all your help
I'm having a tough time printing the tolerance test. I've run through so many calibration tests it's making my head spin. What are some things that can be done to improve my ability to print objects with connecting/moving parts? I'm on an Ender 3 Pro, using Cura 4.4.x. The only mod I have is the EzABL and I'm using a glass bed (instead of magnetic one). Prints that do not have moving or connecting pieces seem to come out pretty spot on for the size and look great. When I've done the 20mm cube test, it comes in around 20.1mm. Cube wall test, comes in around .83mm on a double wall. Using standard .4mm nozzle, and .2mm layer height.
Matt Shields it is a very difficult process to do. A lot of it comes down to tuning the e steps and slider settings. I have an Ender 3 and have working for a few weeks trying to get my tolerances down. An effective way is to adjust your extruder’s esteps per mm (there are a bunch of different videos on this). You can also adjust your extrusion multiplier. Some finer settings come down to the acceleration and jerk of your printer (too high or too low will result in thicker layers and a greater chance of holes being too small and parts not fitting. An basic fix would be to lower the “horizontal expansion” setting in cura. While this will make the parts fit if the value is low enough, it can cause other defects within the model. So, in short, check your hardware (belts and motors), firmware (esters and acceleration), and check your slicer (extrusion multiplier and horizontal expansion).
My CR10mini print well only 0.4 ... but if I set -0.3 in horizontal compensation in Cura v3, numbers on print disappears!! With -0.1mm works until 0.3 and there are numbers ...but under -0.1, numbers will disappears...
I purchased the new version , I was expecting to have a G code for my prusa Mk3 . I am new in 3D printing, Does the infill % or layer hieght or speed values effect my final result ? Do I need certain values when slicing in Prusa slicer ? Thanks for any help
Yes speed will affect it. Layer height might slightly. Infill shouldn't affect it much. Hard to share g-code because it includes material temp settings so you'd have to have EXACTLY the same setup as Angus including material
I remember very my first model to print has ZERO tolerance because I wasn't aware there's such thing.. I separates each parts and when come to assembling, it just wont fit...
Thanks for the test, I purchased it. :P gonna check if my printer is accurate and/or needs some adjustment. It probably does hehe. I wonder what profile settings were used to print this though. Guess i'll look for a video that mentions it before spending hours printing this lil guy.
Okay... so I printed this with your recommended settings, and only the .5 and .4 are unlocked. EVERYTHING else is completely fused! So what do I do? You don't really go into any steps to help alleviate issues with the clearances on the printer. As I'm not a designer, I'm not going to be able to alter the designs of the STLs that I'm trying to print.
Your first layer is most likely too close, try adjusting it and watch to see if there is gaps between each element as its printed, I've got another video on elephants foot effect and how to fix it here - ua-cam.com/video/zlgR3rHg4p8/v-deo.html
@@MakersMuse Thanks for the quick reply! I actually watched your elephants foot video after I posted this, reworked my Creality Cura profile. I reprinted using a raft, and unlocked all but the .15!
I purchased your model and printed it. $2 is cheap. I had some elephant's foot issues. I saw in one of your other video's that you recommended adding a chamfer to parts to avoid the elephants foot print artifact. Perhaps you could rev this model to include one. I'd happily pay for another.
I can't wait to get into my printer... when it gets here that is... lol but I'd love to be able to run these tests and see just what I can get out of it
On my Prusa i3 Mk2s, only the tightest tolerance had to be pried to free it up. The others rotated freely. Good reference for tolerances, as I am new at printing and designing, so this will help.
i'd just assume that he just finetuned all his printers. these prints are for sort of calibration, i'd say that many printers could get these done if setup right. and with some proper mods, as a youtuber that gives info about printers, i'd be sure that he knows how to tweak his, so i'd expect his printers to pass this. but for someone that just gets in it could be like a check to see how good it is and to test improvements.
0.2 on another tolerance test needed a bit of push to unlock at first :( but 0.15 is fused. i'm dissapointed since this printer is my own design. but also the z axis is from another printer still and i just made it. my flow rate is optimized to be 0.8mm for two 0.4mm perimeters. and i actually have -0.05 compensation in my slicer so... maybe if i reduce my accel from 2k to something like 1.5k but then that'd be dissapointing EDIT: I PASSED THE 0.15 without much breaking pressure! didn't need the screw driver I'M SO HAPPY :D
Hi Angus. I hope you see this message. About these gaps. When you mention a 0.2 mm clearance, are you talking about diameter or the gap between the side walls. I have this question because if we're talking about 0.2 mm gap between the side walls then that would give me a 0.4 diameter difference between parts. Would you please clarify this? Thanks in advance.
Printed this last night on my Lulzbot Taz 6, using Cura 2 LE, .15 layer height and a raft I managed to get the .5 broken free but everything else is stuck solid. I have had always had clearance and tolerance issues with both of my Lulzbots though the Mini is usually the one this bad, not the Taz. I'd love to print things that have finer clearances but have read conflicting things about where to start tweaking settings.
just printed the V1 version on a FlashForge Adventurer 4 .. all but 0.05 and 0.1 can be moved even without the tool to break them free, the others are impossible to move. I did have some elephant foot, maybe that's why. overall, a pretty good result for having everything "on default"
First attempt had the first 2 layers fused with my usual settings in all except 2.0 which was only slightly fused. Played with my settings a little in CURA and trying a second print. Also posted this video to the FB group I am in for the A5.
Second attempt failed only because the vent I printed as a mod to the original caught the PETG and bent it, it might also be down to some warping as I lowered the bed temp from 90 to 85, I adjusted the bed setting back up 90 and its stayed stuck. Yay! I am now at layer 40, layer height of 1.5mm, thickness of 0.8, infill of 30% Octet, printing temp 240 with first layer at 245, build plate of 90, diameter 1.75 and flow of 96% (found I needed to reduce from 100 to stop it from fusing), retraction of 4mm/50mm/s speed, print speed of 30mm, wall speed of 15mm, travel of 60mm, Fan 0 initially to 20%, skirt as recommended. 5 hr 11 min print time and 28g of material to use costing GBP 0.28.
I found it too, took a bit of force to get the .15 mm to unlock due to zits, but I've been impressed by my anycubic Delta (once I installed an up to date Marlin anyways)
Boy, that was a bit of a pain lol. Common ones didn't work, but I guess I should've tried the obvious one first. But a little bit of digging, little bit of guesswork and I was in the money. Definitely worth it, thanks Angus. Gonna go beat my printer up now.
Finally got the 0.15 gauge to successfully unlock. What's with the code stamped around the perimeter of the center hub? - Perhaps a bonus if you manage to unlock all the gauges :-)
Hello Angus, I have cr 10 v3 printer. I printed this model, and I made sure that my bed is leveled, but I cannot remove the raft from underneath what should i do ?
Hey Angus! I have a question off topic. I see some people upgrading their hot end with Micro Swiss Hot end. And I haven't seen if it made a difference for anyone. I just received my first 3D printer. I have a Creality cr-10, I bought it because it was on sale. I was planning on another printer. But for the price I went for this one. I will be getting this tolerance checker after I put it together. Great Job!
Years later just finished printing this as my fourth ever completed print. Thanks man!
Did you just predict the future? You should give yourself more credit, it doesn't have to take you years. Remember the future isn't written yet.
;)
Man i went from having no idea who you were 2 days ago, to you becoming my favorite youtuber
Same accept it’s been a wild 2 hours lol
Now you can explore microscopic worlds
Angus, you should really clarify the role of extrusion multiplier in the clearance / tolerance test. Whether or not parts get stuck, yes, is influenced by the precision of your printer, but also can be influenced a lot by the extrusion multiplier. If you have it (too) high, the layers line will be thicker than they should be and the parts will fuse. So if you get bad results on your test, it MAY be an imprecise printer, but it may as well be an indication that your extrusion multiplier is too high, or in general your extruder settings are bad (too many steps per mm etc.)
or you forget to enable some setting like compensate wall overlap.
(i actually need to up my steps per mm. since it does 96 instead of 100mm.)
but i forgot to turn on wall overlap compensation and my parts fused like hell
Hi Angus, I purchased your clearance gauge a couple months ago while learning more about 3D printing during quarantine, when I printed it I was able to unlock to 0.3mm. I just learned more tuning steps over the last couple days and I was able to unlock all clearances without a tool! thanks for making awesome content!
Good lord, the way some people complain about $2 astounds me. One would think Angus was behind the Epipen or Aids meds price hike. I don't care if he make $100k selling his last tolerance test he made. The man is trying to make a living being a content creator and is provide his years of experience and knowledge for free for the masses for the most part. If the man wants to take the time to put his skills to use and design something that can help the rest of us work at dialing in our printers the best we can and charge $2 for it more power to him. I'll gladly pay the man $2 for the hours it took him to make something from nothing but the thoughts in his head. Just like Joe, Joel, Tom and everyone else either making side money or a living providing a service that is for the most part free to most everyone, unless you choose to sub to their patreon, and they happen make or design something i want to print or want to have ill gladly pay less than the price of a Bacon Egg and Cheese biscuit for it. If paying the $2 for a mans time somehow offends you then don't buy the dang thing, and if $2 for something you don't need is going to break the bank you have vastly bigger problems in your life.
These are people who haven't spent the hours and hours making and testing their own models. Angus probably has 8-15 hours into this not including print times and filament. So yea, quit your bitching people. Besides Angus made the old one FREE! And there's nothing wrong with the old one! The key was the weak link and that's easily redesigned.
I totally agree with you, I am learning so much from Angus so am happy to chuck him some money.
I think people just get annoyed with the pay wall. I'm sure he makes tons off of his content too, but if people don't want to pay $2, don't pay it. Make your own and Open Source it. I'm sure Angus won't send anyone a cease and desist or anything. Haha
some people think other people hard work which their put a lot of time in should be free
so what happens when i design something similar myself and upload it for free?
because this is litterally not even a fucking 5 minute design. and this guy has the gall to demand 2 dollars for it.
Just bought this model and will probably pony up for the sphericons. Great to have other options for supporting you directly, and keep up the excellent work!
I'm printing this now; Angus you rock! I can't thank you enough for how much you contribute to the hobby, simply amazing! I've recently begun designing my own objects in fusion 360 and I know how much work goes into something like this. I'm always excited to print your designs! :)
Printed this last night and was pleasantly surprised to see the 0.15mm rotated with just a little thumb pressure. I used a CR-10 with Raptor PLA and the old Cura with 0.2mm layer heights. Thanks for creating this clearance and tolerance test! Great channel!
I was about to go to bed. Instead I'm going to get this print going first
I bought it INSTANTLY, cant wait to print. Keep up the good work!
now, over 2 years later, I still happily paid 2 bucks and tried it. those comparison things never get old
I just got my Prusa Mini (first 3d printer) and this is the only stl I have paid for (so far) First print of it got down to .2mm, reprinted it tonight and took it off the bed immediately and got the .15mm tab free with a screwdriver.
Cool model! Its not only the printers clearance and tolerance that matter but also the slicer. I design tiny print-in-place articulated models, and when I switched from Makerbots own slicer (I have an old Replicator 2) to S3D my printer suddenly printed a lot better and handled tolerance a lot better (default S3D settings)
I just printed, the 0.15 were a little rough, needed a little help, but i'm pleased. Thank you for the time to build this tolerance tool
finally after years of pursuing a 3d printer, parents and brothers chiped in and gifted me an ender 3 pro. At last I will be able to print your models, I am looking for to finish a proper calibration to try your torture models, really love those desings, now i wil enjoy even more your videos
Just bought this; happy to support your channel. Thanks!
Thanks for the model. I printed it on my SeeMeCNC Artemis delta printer. I needed to pry the 0.15mm lever with a screwdriver, but then it moved freely. All others moved without tools. I am printing it a second time (adding a few more top layers... I forgot that I set it to .15mm layer height), and will let folks at our local MakerSpace watch the initial tab releasing... should be fun.
First test print for the LeapFrog Bolt Pro and some interesting results!
1. Printer using the suggested settings in PLA.
2. 0,5mm just falls out of the main body!
3. 0,2mm locked but 0,15mm moves!
4. With a little persuasion now all move, but still I kep dropping 0,5mm out of the body.
Worth the money to test out the new printer. Thanks Angus!
I just downloaded this tolerance test and printed it on my Prusa i3 Mk3 in sliver PLA. All the sections were free moving although the 0.15 one needed some initial persuasion. It's great to know what I can get away with in my design. Thanks Angus.
Angus, I just downloaded the new one but repetier host complained that it wasnt manifold! But I went ahead and sliced it anyway using cura. And it still worked!
PS. I think you are doing a great job helping with the 3d community so please ignore the nay sayers and put downs.
Thanks for the kind words! I think because its tightly nested parts some slicers don't like it, but it's a repaired file I promise. Happy Printing!
So I purchased this file the other day just to see where my E3P was with clearance and tolerance. First test the .2 and .15 were completely seized. A couple flow calibrations and my second test was perfect. .2 and .15 were unlocked without using tools and without using a brim or raft. This was a great puzzle and challenge to get my printer just a little bit more dialed in!
Have you considered adding a fillet to the bottom edge so that first layer squish doesn't affect it so much? Also, thanks for making the old (yet improved) test free.
Woo Hoo!! Finally got it successfully printed. Had to use a raft but success!
Thanks for the info (and the challenge).
Thank you for making v1 free. Will get v2 when I can. You da man!
you just want to print more fidget spinners dont you angus?
+BoomBrush you've seen straight through my scheme!
Just completed it a little while ago and found your Easter Egg! Success!
My new Prusa Mini+ just passed. 0.15 needed a quick pop with a screwdriver to release it - I used PETG so I expected 0.15 to stick a little - but slides freely...tightly, but freely. Yay!
Does layer height play a role? I’m printing it right now at 0.30 height (with 0.40 nozzle)
Print using your defaults, but the higher the layer height the less clearance you can achieve. 0.15 or 0.2 recommended.
@@MakersMuse i don't have a "default" . I tend to print with setting that adjusted to the model that i print. That being said, with 0.3mm layer height I got the 0.3 disc free.... I will try the 0.15mm height next
Ha! All five! AnkerMake 5M 'Precision' settings. Easily worth a couple of quid as a contribution to the author. Thanks for making me smile today, Angus!!
Awesome result! Thanks for letting me know :)
printed one on my Anet A8 Plus, got my 0.15 tolarance moving , great idea and tool,
I printed it successfully on my CR6 SE. I had to apply significant force to
break the.15 mm one lose but it worked. The .15 is a bit tight but the
.02mm clearance is very smooth.
Things get cloudy with time so it’s nice to go back to a gauge printed on your own printer to “feel” the clearances. My sidewinder bed isn’t flat for shit but it’s still in it’s range. Good one Angus!
ok i know this is an old test but the new bambu lab P1P just printed this perfectly out of the book no tuning or calibration ..
Both my printers passed the test with flying colors. Of course I already knew they would. Sure I'm in for two bucks just to give it a whirl. Don't understand the complaints about two bucks though. I've spent more for a lot less. Nicely done Angus.
What are your printers?
was about to use your old free file, but decided to purchase the new one because you're so damn cute
I did it on my Ender 3 Pro using a raft. 0.2 freed by hand and 0.15 freed with a screwdriver. Really happy!
My first run was a fail, lol. I could only break free the .05 I set the slicing tolerance to Exclusive, see if that helps. I will adjust a parameter at a time to really identify ware my issue is. Fun print though!
I’d love to see you apply these concepts to snap fit parts. That’s where I struggle in my designs.
Could you do a detailed video on how to conquer the clearance test? I.e. common symptoms, as they exhibit themselves on the clearance test, and solutions such as issues caused by zitting, stringing, over extrusion, etc.
Ross K I was just about to ask the same thing! Now that we know we need to make adjustments where do we start?
I printed it and the 0.15 clearance was no good. I lowered my extrusion multiplier from 1.05 to 1.00 and print temperature by 5C, and it the .15 was free after slight screwdriver pressure on the tab. I forgot that I had recalibrated my delta printer as it was printing slightly oversize, and never changed the extrusion multiplier.
What do the tops of your print sections look like? If they are fully solid all the way across the infill, and have slight blobs at the end of the infill lines, you could try lowering your extrusion multiplier or adjusting your steps/mm (both have the same effect).
Just tested my brand new CR-6 SE. Getting the part to lift was a real challenge - refrigerator - hot water, cold water, hot water, knife and spatula! I didn't know about the flat blade screw driver allowance. That made me happy because it freed up 0.2, although the 0.15 did snap instead of rotating. I sliced using CURA 4.9 with all default settings because I mostly use Linux, not Windows. The Creality version of the slicer was Windows only.
Cool testing model. Printed that with my testing profile in S3D and 0.2 needed to be lose with screwdriver. 0.3 works great. I'll need some tuning, but I'm happy with this result. :) Thanks again for test model.
It's worth noting that as well as getting the first layer right, calibrating your extrusion for tests like these is critical. Under or over extrusion will drastically change the results
Just bought the STL.... Now lets see how my PETG, NYLON & PLA stack up! My CR-10S is highly modified and dialed in tight, I can print down to .05 so lets see!
Thank you for this test!!! Bought it a while ago and tested it on my Flashforge Adventurer 3, where i only got to 0.4... :(
I've got my self a B2X300 and spent like 40 hours to get it run smoothly - Spoiler: Guess what the solution was? I needed to oil my Filament as well, much more than i expected ... - but now i got to 0.15 with a little of force to breake it free.
After all this struggle your test brought back the joy of owning the B2X300, so yeah thank you again! =)
Congratulations on 1M Subscribers.
Hi. I have an Ender3, stock. I made it down to .15. I made it thanks to a well leveled bed and calibrated e-steps. I'm using Cura 3.6.0. RI'm still having trouble believing it. $2 well spend. Thanks.
After an initial problem, in which my first layer solidified so nothing moved, I turned off "drop to build plate" in CURA and printed the new gauge with a 5mm support on my Ender 3. Using stock 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer height and cheap (£11.50/kg off Amazon) PLA at 200 deg with glass bed at 60 deg, I get down to unlocking 0.2mm, which isn't even that stiff; 0.15 looks like it has separation at the top and bottom (I can just slip the corner of a sheet of paper into the gap), but it won't move at all, presumably seized on the sloping sections. Now I just need to sort my first layer issue. :)
Update: With the aid of a short screwdriver simply as a lever against the arm, I've successfully freed the 0.15mm wheel too. So I think my Ender 3 setup must be pretty good!
Cleared the whole thing on my Ender 3
Printed today on Aldi Coccon Create. Spliced using Cura, Good results all wheels free and spinning 0.15 with no slop through to 0.5 very loose.. Using PLA and settings as recommended. Printed at 200 Deg. C
Excellent modifications. This will be one of the first prints - when I get the printers assembled - LOL. Thanks Angus.
Cheers Angus, just ordered the new torture test, now to test my printers!
Oh dang, I just bought the original tolerance test a few days ago. Never mind, it's not like it was expensive. I'll probably end up buying this one too.
Some people have no tolerance for clearance?
Tight gaps (0.05) are fused in Prusa Slicer for me, something to pay attention to too!
Just did it! 0.15mm free on Ender3 running kipper at 100mm/s (for all speeds except outer wall at 75mm/s). No raft, 3 walls, 0.2 layer height in 2.5hrs. 4000mm/s/s max_accel.
Just purchased. Thank you.
Printed on a QiDi X-Pro and all tollerance fingers opened freely appart from the 0.15mm which required a little force to free it up.
Used black Filaprint X3 PLA with 230 Deg C extrusion temp, 50 Deg C bed temp (probably not required) 60mm/s, 50% first layer speed, 1mm retraction, 0.8mm coast, 30% infill. Could do even better if I could eliminate the occasional zit!
Thank you Angus. Maybe you need to make a more challenging one next time?
bought it :) - in the printer now .... I was designing one in fusion (just as a challange to myself) but I still bought it as a bit of support :)
.15 and up were free on the Original Version on a (very well) tuned Anet A8 with the 2040 aluminum frame upgrade:) 0.1 Might come loose with some extra force but the key won't take it.
‘THIS IS HARD’... every printer passes all tests
lol
+th3batfink to be fair they're pretty good 3D Printers :P
@@MakersMuse I should give this a shot on my Anet A8, see how good it does
Try on yours and see how it does, here it's killing mine
mine failed hard... ender 3 v2 need to do calibration
@@hoocli , I have an Ender 3 V2 and got 0.15mm unlocked.
yeah I think you butchered tolerances and clearances... but no worries.. the result is good... Very nicely done.
Dude this is flippin genius! Nice work
Just printed this on a new Ender 3. Either I printed this wrong or it's sort of disappointing as a fidget spinner. The 0.5 just pops out, and so does the 0.4 with minimal spin. Can't spin with only 3 sides. May just have to glue them in. The gauge side seems fine. All moved easily, even in the 0.15. Printed on a raft with 0.15 layer thickness.
If you want to use one like a fidget spinner definitely grab the version 1, this one is designed more as a functional tool so you know what kind of movement you can expect from your printer. Clearly 0.4mm is too large, but maybe 0.2mm gives a good movement without too much play? The center part is designed to pop free once you unlock all clearances :) it has a special code on it to another youtube video.
@@MakersMuse what if i cant move the part what should i change???
cleared 0.15 on Creality CR-6SE, thank you for your model
Might want to look up the difference between accuracy and precision
JFYI, the "free" old tolerance gauge will cost you a buck or three. I also bought the new one (although I vaguely recall that it was once available to Patreon supporters). Thanks, Angus.
Just a thought... My printer appears to have a magic number of 0.04mm (ie. full step motion).
This is based on 1.8 degree steppers, with 8mm pitch screw. ie. 8mm / (360 / 1.8) = 0.04mm
I’m guessing this may be a reasonably common printer configuration?
The point is that you therefore want to optimally work in multiples of 0.04mm increments.
So, normal 0.2mm layers are OK, but instead of 0.1mm (for fine), you really want 0.12mm or 0.08mm.
Likewise, for clearance you'd also optimally want to work in multiples of 0.04mm
So instead of a test going down to 0.15mm clearance, I’d really want either 0.16mm or 0.12mm to test my printer's minimum clearance.
Hello Angus, thanks for all your videos, great info, can you make a video on how to calibrate the printer to get the best prints when printing models that have moving parts in one piece, I tried some models but the parts are fuse together or hard to loose them, thanks for all your help
wow, cool, finally a chance to buy this awesome fellow a coffee :) thanks for your effort
Thanks man! Appreciate the support
I'm having a tough time printing the tolerance test. I've run through so many calibration tests it's making my head spin. What are some things that can be done to improve my ability to print objects with connecting/moving parts? I'm on an Ender 3 Pro, using Cura 4.4.x. The only mod I have is the EzABL and I'm using a glass bed (instead of magnetic one). Prints that do not have moving or connecting pieces seem to come out pretty spot on for the size and look great. When I've done the 20mm cube test, it comes in around 20.1mm. Cube wall test, comes in around .83mm on a double wall. Using standard .4mm nozzle, and .2mm layer height.
Matt Shields it is a very difficult process to do. A lot of it comes down to tuning the e steps and slider settings. I have an Ender 3 and have working for a few weeks trying to get my tolerances down. An effective way is to adjust your extruder’s esteps per mm (there are a bunch of different videos on this). You can also adjust your extrusion multiplier. Some finer settings come down to the acceleration and jerk of your printer (too high or too low will result in thicker layers and a greater chance of holes being too small and parts not fitting. An basic fix would be to lower the “horizontal expansion” setting in cura. While this will make the parts fit if the value is low enough, it can cause other defects within the model. So, in short, check your hardware (belts and motors), firmware (esters and acceleration), and check your slicer (extrusion multiplier and horizontal expansion).
I had to break loose the .2 and .15 but after that all of the spinny parts will break out of the bar with little to no effort.
Got the guage to print on my Ender 3, everything but the .20 freed up.
My CR10mini print well only 0.4 ... but if I set -0.3 in horizontal compensation in Cura v3, numbers on print disappears!!
With -0.1mm works until 0.3 and there are numbers ...but under -0.1, numbers will disappears...
Print it on settings you normally use, horizontal compensation will alter the final print accuracy I don't use it.
Thank Angus that's a win win for everyone!
I purchased the new version , I was expecting to have a G code for my prusa Mk3 . I am new in 3D printing, Does the infill % or layer hieght or speed values effect my final result ? Do I need certain values when slicing in Prusa slicer ? Thanks for any help
Yes speed will affect it. Layer height might slightly. Infill shouldn't affect it much.
Hard to share g-code because it includes material temp settings so you'd have to have EXACTLY the same setup as Angus including material
I remember very my first model to print has ZERO tolerance because I wasn't aware there's such thing.. I separates each parts and when come to assembling, it just wont fit...
Thanks for the test, I purchased it. :P gonna check if my printer is accurate and/or needs some adjustment. It probably does hehe. I wonder what profile settings were used to print this though. Guess i'll look for a video that mentions it before spending hours printing this lil guy.
.15mm layers and 3 perimeters recommended, the rest is up to you and your preferred settings :)
@@MakersMuse Thanks for the quick reply :) I'll give it a go.
@@MakersMuse All the wheels turn :D Guess my Cr6-se is well configured. :D Thanks for the test again!
Okay... so I printed this with your recommended settings, and only the .5 and .4 are unlocked. EVERYTHING else is completely fused! So what do I do? You don't really go into any steps to help alleviate issues with the clearances on the printer. As I'm not a designer, I'm not going to be able to alter the designs of the STLs that I'm trying to print.
Your first layer is most likely too close, try adjusting it and watch to see if there is gaps between each element as its printed, I've got another video on elephants foot effect and how to fix it here - ua-cam.com/video/zlgR3rHg4p8/v-deo.html
@@MakersMuse Thanks for the quick reply! I actually watched your elephants foot video after I posted this, reworked my Creality Cura profile. I reprinted using a raft, and unlocked all but the .15!
@@davidwatanabe2017 awesome!
I purchased your model and printed it. $2 is cheap. I had some elephant's foot issues. I saw in one of your other video's that you recommended adding a chamfer to parts to avoid the elephants foot print artifact. Perhaps you could rev this model to include one. I'd happily pay for another.
I can't wait to get into my printer... when it gets here that is... lol but I'd love to be able to run these tests and see just what I can get out of it
On my Prusa i3 Mk2s, only the tightest tolerance had to be pried to free it up. The others rotated freely. Good reference for tolerances, as I am new at printing and designing, so this will help.
this doesn't seem to show the maximun(minimum?) since you was able to get them all to move?
i'd just assume that he just finetuned all his printers. these prints are for sort of calibration, i'd say that many printers could get these done if setup right. and with some proper mods, as a youtuber that gives info about printers, i'd be sure that he knows how to tweak his, so i'd expect his printers to pass this. but for someone that just gets in it could be like a check to see how good it is and to test improvements.
Just printed and got all of them moving on an ender 3!
Bought this and I am glad I did, but what do I do with the secret in the middle section?
0.2 on another tolerance test needed a bit of push to unlock at first :( but 0.15 is fused.
i'm dissapointed since this printer is my own design. but also the z axis is from another printer still and i just made it.
my flow rate is optimized to be 0.8mm for two 0.4mm perimeters. and i actually have -0.05 compensation in my slicer so...
maybe if i reduce my accel from 2k to something like 1.5k but then that'd be dissapointing
EDIT: I PASSED THE 0.15 without much breaking pressure! didn't need the screw driver I'M SO HAPPY :D
Hi Angus. I hope you see this message. About these gaps. When you mention a 0.2 mm clearance, are you talking about diameter or the gap between the side walls. I have this question because if we're talking about 0.2 mm gap between the side walls then that would give me a 0.4 diameter difference between parts. Would you please clarify this? Thanks in advance.
Aw man this sucks, I just bought your old test like a week ago...
Well, still I dont need a new one.
Got down to 0,15 pretty easy.
Printed this last night on my Lulzbot Taz 6, using Cura 2 LE, .15 layer height and a raft I managed to get the .5 broken free but everything else is stuck solid. I have had always had clearance and tolerance issues with both of my Lulzbots though the Mini is usually the one this bad, not the Taz.
I'd love to print things that have finer clearances but have read conflicting things about where to start tweaking settings.
just printed the V1 version on a FlashForge Adventurer 4 .. all but 0.05 and 0.1 can be moved even without the tool to break them free, the others are impossible to move.
I did have some elephant foot, maybe that's why. overall, a pretty good result for having everything "on default"
Of course you put this out when my machines are dissassembled for upgrades, lol. Good job though, thanks for all the hard work.
Bought, downloaded and printing right now but in PETG as that is what I predominantly print with on my JGAurora A5.
Cool to hear the A5 gathering popularity. Good luck!
First attempt had the first 2 layers fused with my usual settings in all except 2.0 which was only slightly fused. Played with my settings a little in CURA and trying a second print.
Also posted this video to the FB group I am in for the A5.
Second attempt failed only because the vent I printed as a mod to the original caught the PETG and bent it, it might also be down to some warping as I lowered the bed temp from 90 to 85, I adjusted the bed setting back up 90 and its stayed stuck. Yay! I am now at layer 40, layer height of 1.5mm, thickness of 0.8, infill of 30% Octet, printing temp 240 with first layer at 245, build plate of 90, diameter 1.75 and flow of 96% (found I needed to reduce from 100 to stop it from fusing), retraction of 4mm/50mm/s speed, print speed of 30mm, wall speed of 15mm, travel of 60mm, Fan 0 initially to 20%, skirt as recommended. 5 hr 11 min print time and 28g of material to use costing GBP 0.28.
what is 48WHXOmQ5Ug?
What is it indeed :P
:D
Sounds like someone's thrown down a GAUNTLET.
I found it too, took a bit of force to get the .15 mm to unlock due to zits, but I've been impressed by my anycubic Delta (once I installed an up to date Marlin anyways)
Boy, that was a bit of a pain lol. Common ones didn't work, but I guess I should've tried the obvious one first. But a little bit of digging, little bit of guesswork and I was in the money. Definitely worth it, thanks Angus. Gonna go beat my printer up now.
Finally got the 0.15 gauge to successfully unlock. What's with the code stamped around the perimeter of the center hub? - Perhaps a bonus if you manage to unlock all the gauges :-)
I would like to know more about those books in the background (prototyping and design), worth the 25USD I saw on amazon?
Can't purchase on the website /: won't accept payment.
I am having issue with overhang when I print this on my Flashforge 5m with the printing specification you have
Hello Angus,
I have cr 10 v3 printer.
I printed this model, and I made sure that my bed is leveled, but I cannot remove the raft from underneath what should i do ?
U saved me from wasting tons of filaments & screwing myself up thanx a lot.
Hey Angus! I have a question off topic. I see some people upgrading their hot end with Micro Swiss Hot end. And I haven't seen if it made a difference for anyone. I just received my first 3D printer. I have a Creality cr-10, I bought it because it was on sale. I was planning on another printer. But for the price I went for this one. I will be getting this tolerance checker after I put it together. Great Job!
i printed the tolerance test and even on 0.6 i cant move any ...
a calibration cube prints perfect with almost exact 20.00mm
Printed just fine in PETG on my Folgertech 2020 kit.