That's a very thorough and clean job on that old Sansui. I worked for Sansui Canada back in their heyday, and those fusible resistors were a very common failure. My guess is that amp experienced a lightning strike, or more likely a power surge, and the resistors did their job. By the way, the difference between a 50V capacitor, and a 63V cap is about ten cents a piece, and at a production run of say, 100,000 units that would be $10,000. That's for one component, multiply that by however many parts they can save ten cents on in each amp and you have a significant savings on that model production run. By the way, the bean counters were brutal on the engineers. Anyway, great work, and just for you, if you ever need a couple Sansui original Sanken TO-3 outputs, get in touch. Take care and have a great day.
"What do we do with our toenail clippings?" If you were Krumm, Ickis, or Oblina from Aaah! Real Monsters, you'd know they need to be collected into a glass jar to hide under your bed. That's the best place to store your most precious currency. 😁😁 My kids loved the show when growing up. Re: camera setup: Learning curves and equipment limitations can take the joy right out of sharing what you love to do. What comes to mind with the tearing are either the cable may be just a tad overwhelmed and a higher quality might be needed, or it truly is in the "Magic Switcher Box" which could be any number of things. And that's a bit above my paygrade. I hope you find the issue, and sooner rather than later.
Those lines that run along edges look to me like interlace artifacts, where the image is scanned odd lines first, then even lines. If you have the ability to switch the outputs or whatever to progressive scan, those artifacts should go away. Progressive scan does the image top to bottom all at once, so no lines on edges like you're seeing. It could also be in a step-down in resolution going into or out of the Atom. An alternative way would be to record on all the cameras at the same time and sync them during playback in something like DaVinci resolve, Adobe Premiere or Final Cut Pro X. Then you can switch between the various views. Hope you get it worked out! I enjoy all your videos, warts and all.
I came into your world when you were doing things the "old" way. I stayed for that and Not for the complex of networking devices you've added! I think that many get the idea that Network operators like NBC, and others have all of the trick stuff but you MUST realize that that establishment includes hundreds of thousands of dollars of staff, operating all of the equipment. One person would come to a complete standstill if they tried to operate all of it while talking and showing. I liked the old-way! Bring it on!
I will say all your videos look really good. My only criticism is you don't zoom in often enough when showing a schematic, resulting in me not being able to follow.
Unless you want to spend really big bucks on camera and editing equipment I think you have to work out if the time saved with this kit is worth more than the slight degradation in picture quality. Remember a lot of people are watching these videos on phones in less than ideal lighting conditions and maybe wearing glasses that need cleaning etc. If it's in focus and you can see what's happening that should be good enough for most people. The other thing is that some people who have time to watch these videos probably have enough time to start picking at picture quality. If they're busy doing other stuff with their life they won't be watching the videos all in one go and probably won't see a slightly less better quality image as a big enough problem to worry about. I don't normally comment because I don't generally have the time to watch the videos all in one go - so you now which camp I sit in 😉 I enjoy your video content far more than I enjoy worrying about if there's a slight tear at the edge of the picture.
Don't know the switching board for your camera, but in general there are some things I noticed: * Top camera perpendicular to your bench has its auto exposure set only on the middle part (30% of the image) instead of the whole image. A setting in the camera. That is why when you put your hand over the centre the exposure flips. And for a good exposure level preferably use a middle grey as bench, or at least not dark, not bright. * For the focus too, you can set the camera to use the centre of the image, or an average of the whole. When you set it on the centre it tends to hunt more because your hands keeps going over the centre, and your hand fills the whole centre. * In your language you often mix 'auto exposure' with 'auto white balance'; AE sets the level of light, AWB compensates the colour to the used colour temperature of the light. For a good white balance maybe it is an idea to have something white in the image, but modern camera's should not have problems with it. As said, for a good exposure (AE) an average background is wanted. * All your images have a lot of contrast; lights are bleached, shadows are holes. Lower the contrast setting in the camera. If it can do HDR (High Dynamic Range) try that, it has the ability to really lighten up the shadows. Simple tips I learned in photography. Edit: I ended watching this video now, and I saw that you're getting better with it, my comment more fits your other videos from the last month.
Hi Tony just a suggestion if you'll get like a white poster board and lay down on your bench and then white focus your camera and set it and take it off auto then you should be good to go
My AU717 that I bought not working, every fusible resistor checked bad. No idea on the history of it, but the glue was really bad, and many caps also measured bad.
Please use whatever camera system that makes you happy. Research "Finger Cots." They cover your fingers, but not your palms. Much cooler than gloves. No sweat running down to your elbows. Make sure to get the correct size. They make "Pistol Grips" that attach to spray paint cans. They are made of plastic, so they are not expensive. The finger trigger gives a lot more control over the paint delivery. And, you don't get hand fatigue, or finger cramps. HTH.
Never ran into all the fusible resistors in a piece of equipment go bad. They almost always go completely open. Either they are pretty close in value or open. Apparently it happens suddenly because had people bring me something that worked fine one day and not the next, and the only cause was an open fuse resistor.
A lot of modern mirrorless cameras can't output as nice of a video signal from the hdmi ports as they can record internally. Lots of bit depth and color space limitations, lowered resolutions, etc.
That makes a lot of sense. Unfortunately, I'm finding that most HDMI output cameras have lower quality output when compared to a conventional camera setup.
@@xraytonyb Yeah I have a couple of Sony cameras, a6400 and a7r3, and they will both take beautiful 6000 pixel photos, but what comes out of the hdmi ports is barely usable as a webcam for a teams meeting lol
The video focus/resolution during the rant was very poor, nowhere near as good as your former setup. It really detracts and distracts from your excellent content, so please try to resolve tihis issue, even if it means reverting to old methods. Thanks for all the effort you put into your channel, it is one of the very best and much enjoyed.
On the McIntosh models, the heat sinks are at B+ and B- potential, but the brackets that hold the heat sinks to the chassis are non-conductive. Not sure the composition. Bakelite?
Hi Tony, love your videos! I'm sure you've answered this before, but do you know of a good book/course to learn about some of the common electrical concepts in audio circuits, such as constant current sources etc.? Your videos such as "Differential Amplifier Experiments" and the "Amps n'at" analysis are the type of material I'm looking for, but I don't know if you're aware of any methodical materials for these common audio circuit concepts.
I would suggest mr.carlsons lab he has electronic courses on his patrion he is a live teacher there for the courses cost you a few dollars around 10 or 15 dollars I believe
Seeing all the steel parts with corrosion, I wonder if those fusible resistors failed due to environmental factors. Like somehow the elements inside corroded.
Is the video compressed as part of the storage on the hard drive? What you describe sounds to me like compression artifacts. If you can, try turning all that off - and buy a bunch of terabyte hard drives. I cannot watch video that is mpeg processed.
It is pronounced A -------- TIM, not Adam. It is a standard for Video & Audio production. Using an ATEM is like learning to use a good Pre Amp ! A little patience !
about that switcher .. it is a low grade switcher there are better out there ... i do not know how much you paid for it ... but for sure it aint worth the price it sells for !!!
That's a very thorough and clean job on that old Sansui. I worked for Sansui Canada back in their heyday, and those fusible resistors were a very common failure. My guess is that amp experienced a lightning strike, or more likely a power surge, and the resistors did their job.
By the way, the difference between a 50V capacitor, and a 63V cap is about ten cents a piece, and at a production run of say, 100,000 units that would be $10,000. That's for one component, multiply that by however many parts they can save ten cents on in each amp and you have a significant savings on that model production run. By the way, the bean counters were brutal on the engineers.
Anyway, great work, and just for you, if you ever need a couple Sansui original Sanken TO-3 outputs, get in touch.
Take care and have a great day.
"What do we do with our toenail clippings?"
If you were Krumm, Ickis, or Oblina from Aaah! Real Monsters, you'd know they need to be collected into a glass jar to hide under your bed. That's the best place to store your most precious currency. 😁😁 My kids loved the show when growing up.
Re: camera setup: Learning curves and equipment limitations can take the joy right out of sharing what you love to do.
What comes to mind with the tearing are either the cable may be just a tad overwhelmed and a higher quality might be needed, or it truly is in the "Magic Switcher Box" which could be any number of things. And that's a bit above my paygrade.
I hope you find the issue, and sooner rather than later.
Thank you, Tony, for your time! You and family have a great holiday weekend.
Always like the solder and chats!
Those lines that run along edges look to me like interlace artifacts, where the image is scanned odd lines first, then even lines. If you have the ability to switch the outputs or whatever to progressive scan, those artifacts should go away. Progressive scan does the image top to bottom all at once, so no lines on edges like you're seeing. It could also be in a step-down in resolution going into or out of the Atom. An alternative way would be to record on all the cameras at the same time and sync them during playback in something like DaVinci resolve, Adobe Premiere or Final Cut Pro X. Then you can switch between the various views. Hope you get it worked out! I enjoy all your videos, warts and all.
I came into your world when you were doing things the "old" way. I stayed for that and Not for the complex of networking devices you've added! I think that many get the idea that Network operators like NBC, and others have all of the trick stuff but you MUST realize that that establishment includes hundreds of thousands of dollars of staff, operating all of the equipment. One person would come to a complete standstill if they tried to operate all of it while talking and showing. I liked the old-way! Bring it on!
Your content is excellent, Tony. Thanks and I hope you have a great Memorial Day weekend.
I will say all your videos look really good. My only criticism is you don't zoom in often enough when showing a schematic, resulting in me not being able to follow.
Unless you want to spend really big bucks on camera and editing equipment I think you have to work out if the time saved with this kit is worth more than the slight degradation in picture quality. Remember a lot of people are watching these videos on phones in less than ideal lighting conditions and maybe wearing glasses that need cleaning etc. If it's in focus and you can see what's happening that should be good enough for most people. The other thing is that some people who have time to watch these videos probably have enough time to start picking at picture quality. If they're busy doing other stuff with their life they won't be watching the videos all in one go and probably won't see a slightly less better quality image as a big enough problem to worry about. I don't normally comment because I don't generally have the time to watch the videos all in one go - so you now which camp I sit in 😉 I enjoy your video content far more than I enjoy worrying about if there's a slight tear at the edge of the picture.
First 10 min. =KISS. Thanks for your time.
Don't know the switching board for your camera, but in general there are some things I noticed:
* Top camera perpendicular to your bench has its auto exposure set only on the middle part (30% of the image) instead of the whole image. A setting in the camera. That is why when you put your hand over the centre the exposure flips. And for a good exposure level preferably use a middle grey as bench, or at least not dark, not bright.
* For the focus too, you can set the camera to use the centre of the image, or an average of the whole. When you set it on the centre it tends to hunt more because your hands keeps going over the centre, and your hand fills the whole centre.
* In your language you often mix 'auto exposure' with 'auto white balance'; AE sets the level of light, AWB compensates the colour to the used colour temperature of the light. For a good white balance maybe it is an idea to have something white in the image, but modern camera's should not have problems with it. As said, for a good exposure (AE) an average background is wanted.
* All your images have a lot of contrast; lights are bleached, shadows are holes. Lower the contrast setting in the camera. If it can do HDR (High Dynamic Range) try that, it has the ability to really lighten up the shadows.
Simple tips I learned in photography.
Edit: I ended watching this video now, and I saw that you're getting better with it, my comment more fits your other videos from the last month.
Hi Tony just a suggestion if you'll get like a white poster board and lay down on your bench and then white focus your camera and set it and take it off auto then you should be good to go
My AU717 that I bought not working, every fusible resistor checked bad. No idea on the history of it, but the glue was really bad, and many caps also measured bad.
Please use whatever camera system that makes you happy. Research "Finger Cots." They cover your fingers, but not your palms. Much cooler than gloves. No sweat running down to your elbows. Make sure to get the correct size. They make "Pistol Grips" that attach to spray paint cans. They are made of plastic, so they are not expensive. The finger trigger gives a lot more control over the paint delivery. And, you don't get hand fatigue, or finger cramps. HTH.
Thanks😊
Never ran into all the fusible resistors in a piece of equipment go bad. They almost always go completely open. Either they are pretty close in value or open. Apparently it happens suddenly because had people bring me something that worked fine one day and not the next, and the only cause was an open fuse resistor.
A lot of modern mirrorless cameras can't output as nice of a video signal from the hdmi ports as they can record internally. Lots of bit depth and color space limitations, lowered resolutions, etc.
That makes a lot of sense. Unfortunately, I'm finding that most HDMI output cameras have lower quality output when compared to a conventional camera setup.
@@xraytonyb Yeah I have a couple of Sony cameras, a6400 and a7r3, and they will both take beautiful 6000 pixel photos, but what comes out of the hdmi ports is barely usable as a webcam for a teams meeting lol
Those failed resistors are obviously at the bottom of the pecking order. 🐔
The schematic-view was completely out-of-focus and unreadable...but your voice was perfect! LOL
The video focus/resolution during the rant was very poor, nowhere near as good as your former setup. It really detracts and distracts from your excellent content, so please try to resolve tihis issue, even if it means reverting to old methods. Thanks for all the effort you put into your channel, it is one of the very best and much enjoyed.
Maybe something in the signal path within your video switcher had degraded or is not quite up to spec. That's the only thing I can think of, Tony.
Called white balancing
On the McIntosh models, the heat sinks are at B+ and B- potential, but the brackets that hold the heat sinks to the chassis are non-conductive. Not sure the composition. Bakelite?
What happens with older usable xray equipment? Get sold to other clinics, vet clinics, morgues or sold donated to other countries. Or just scrapped?
Hi Tony, love your videos! I'm sure you've answered this before, but do you know of a good book/course to learn about some of the common electrical concepts in audio circuits, such as constant current sources etc.? Your videos such as "Differential Amplifier Experiments" and the "Amps n'at" analysis are the type of material I'm looking for, but I don't know if you're aware of any methodical materials for these common audio circuit concepts.
I would suggest mr.carlsons lab he has electronic courses on his patrion he is a live teacher there for the courses cost you a few dollars around 10 or 15 dollars I believe
How about Bob Cordell- Designing Audio Power Amps & Paul Horowitz/Winfield Hill- The Art of Electronics?
Can you replace the digital board you have with an "analog" or mechanical hdmi switch (if they are still made).
Seeing all the steel parts with corrosion, I wonder if those fusible resistors failed due to environmental factors. Like somehow the elements inside corroded.
It must be that.
What if those fusible resistors can't handle beeing sprayed with alcohol and then rinsed with water!?
Is the video compressed as part of the storage on the hard drive? What you describe sounds to me like compression artifacts. If you can, try turning all that off - and buy a bunch of terabyte hard drives. I cannot watch video that is mpeg processed.
It is pronounced A -------- TIM, not Adam. It is a standard for Video & Audio production.
Using an ATEM is like learning to use a good Pre Amp ! A little patience !
about that switcher .. it is a low grade switcher there are better out there ... i do not know how much you paid for it ... but for sure it aint worth the price it sells for !!!
You're way overthinking it with this edge thing. I'm not noticing any problem with your videos.
The problem ain't with watching them, it's with making them. ;)
Ditch the switch.......👍