As for you couch experts talking about torque. I have looking over the shoulders of a few Suunto techs by now, never have I seen a torque wrench. I have changed batts about 8 times or so in these computers myself and I make them a bit more snug that finger tight. Keep in mind the high force that is on that cap once you start diving will keep the cap seated. You basically just need enough torque to keep it seated at ambient pressures.
Clean the o-ring, the channel and regrease ever so lightly and you are good to go - even with an old o-ring. New is better but I ran my old one for 10 years and about 4-5 battery changes. The depth sensor issue (HWERR: 009) was what killed that D4 and that has nothing to do with the battery changes. Do all this in a dry environment (AC on if you are in the tropics) and you are good to go.
Helpful video - though my D4i (purchased 2022, in case that's significant) doesn't have the 'mounting thing' and the one I have has Torx 5 screws (and thread-lock on the threads).
Yep, clean the o-ring, the channel and regrease every so lightly and you are good to go - even with an old o-ring. New is better but I ran my old one for 10 years and about 4-5 battery changes. The depth sensor was what killed that D4 and that has nothing to do with the battery changes.
Many traders sell for this watch the duracell battery DL2450. It's completely wrong because has different dimensions. The correct battery is CR2450 as the watch back side says.
Actually CR2450 comes in two kinds. One has a pronounced ledge/step and that's the only one that works. The other shape (more like a pill) won't fit the D4. Both shapes are sold under CR2450 3v designation. The only way to know is to physically see the battery in person.
nice tutorial on how to damage or make your dive computer flooded in the future. no new O-ring replacement not ESD protected tools/gloves (anti estatic) no pressure test done
From someone who have changed the battery about 4-5 times on my original D4 and 2-3 times in friends D4is I call your statement BS but perhaps you are fan boy or have a business to protect. You know what killed my D4 in the end and two D4is that I know of? HWERR:009 - the failing depth sensor common issue that Suunto in many markets wont admit to is very much a flawed design - and has zero to do with battery changes. So, no leak ever in my 10-y-o D4 and that had the original o-ring. But yeah, do change the o-ring if you have the right size handy. Ah, one more thing broke in that D4 - two of the four button springs rusted and snapped and I rinse my gear religously. Well done Suunto on not using a proper grade steel... As for pressure testing, if you don't trust your assembly skills and really want peace of mind, you can build your own chamber for about USD20-30 out of a water filter, a few fittings and a bicycle pump. I did that, but not until I had already had my own D4 apart many times. The only real issue is doing it in a dry environment so you wont have fogging. Point is, if you can keep a dive torch or a camera housing from flooding, you can change a battery. Also, why name yourself after a brand that has a track history of not admitting to design and manufacturing flaws? Remember the first gen straps for D4? They lasted how long? 1 year, 2 years? And cost a fortune to replace. I replaced mine once. When that POS died a year later, I was given one for free by a dive shop whose tech said Suunto had internally admitted they were crap and sent him a bunch of free ones. Meanwhile, other shops would still charge for the replacements. The "newer" silicone ones are great. The rubber ones were shit. I wonder how many divers dropped their D4s because the old rubber strap let go in the middle of a dive... Let's circle back to that failing depth sensor that I see quite a bit these years. Suunto settled a class action lawsuit in the US on this matter - so that replacement is for free, as it should be. But I just got quoted USD357 for the same repair in the Phillippines. And about USD200 in Thailand two years ago. Same issue, different markets - well done Suunto... But hey, thanks for weighing in... (Your point on ESD is likely more valid, though fairly easy to remedy)
@@AntiVaganza I was searching how to fix suunto d4 failing button and came across this. Yes, a lot of divers agree with you. We had 4 divers lost their D4 due to poor quality straps already. Just wondering, do you have any recommendation for best low maintenance dive computer watch? We are looking to replace suunto if possible. I noticed this is from 3 years ago. I hope you read this.
A Philips screwdriver isn’t the correct one to use. You should use a special screwdriver for watches. I have changed my battery several times without a problem. Here in the Philippines you have to send your computer to the nearest service centre and it costs more than $50 and takes a few weeks. I don’t see much risk as I have had a few Suunto dive computers and the pressure sensor tends to fail after about 500 dives anyway which will require 2 battery changes!
very risky, if you can not get the equal water enters. If the screw does not fit equally, the water will enter, the screw will be distorted too much. first ring off i silicone grease after closing you must attach screws when the cover is stationary.
I am surprised its that easy, looks like other then not taking the time to look at the o-ring you can't do much wrong other than it just won't fit, could go go a bit more into detail what concerns you, thanks!
Well I am not an expert but Ill just say what I realised: 1. You using the wrong size screwdriver, and there no way you can tell the torque you are doing that down with 2. Oring should be replaced not just inspected, and you shouldn't be touching it with your bare hand as they contain oils ect. 3. You touching the internals with without anti static band and again shouldnt be handling that with bare hands for the same reason. 4. as far as I know you should be compressing the cover with a special watch tool when putting back together to ensure the seal Thats what I can tell you about this I am sure a watch/dive technician would give more in-site and I say again why risk your dive safety (and rather pricey replacement value of the watch) on a couple of bucks?
1. sound right that we don't know whats the optimal torque is... but I would think in combination with 4. that the pressure during a dive would actually increase the seal, but not sure^^ 2. sound right as well though lot of guys have successfully done it that way even without adding some "lube"? 3. that sounds strange since some are recommending to add some lol (nut sure about the right name of that stuff though) ALL IN ALL I am not sure what they charge you for the bat replacement on a 300€ watch (lets say it's 60€, that would be 1/5 of it's price lol)... sure would be tempted to do try it myself^^
As for you couch experts talking about torque. I have looking over the shoulders of a few Suunto techs by now, never have I seen a torque wrench. I have changed batts about 8 times or so in these computers myself and I make them a bit more snug that finger tight. Keep in mind the high force that is on that cap once you start diving will keep the cap seated. You basically just need enough torque to keep it seated at ambient pressures.
Exactly, it's the captured o-ring that keeps the pressure in/out. The screws are just keeping the cap in place and can be practically almost loose.
Clean the o-ring, the channel and regrease ever so lightly and you are good to go - even with an old o-ring. New is better but I ran my old one for 10 years and about 4-5 battery changes. The depth sensor issue (HWERR: 009) was what killed that D4 and that has nothing to do with the battery changes.
Do all this in a dry environment (AC on if you are in the tropics) and you are good to go.
hi bro, should i use alcohol to clean o-ring and channel?
Helpful video - though my D4i (purchased 2022, in case that's significant) doesn't have the 'mounting thing' and the one I have has Torx 5 screws (and thread-lock on the threads).
Thank you, this was very helpful! It worked for changing the battery of my Suunto D6I!
What screwdriver size?
size knife
Will it work with D4F as well?
If you forgot about silicon ... it`s 50\50 | Your O-ring is`not happy now!
Yep, clean the o-ring, the channel and regrease every so lightly and you are good to go - even with an old o-ring. New is better but I ran my old one for 10 years and about 4-5 battery changes. The depth sensor was what killed that D4 and that has nothing to do with the battery changes.
Hello i have the suddo d4 does someone know if i can somehow switch it off for the winter to keep the battery until the sumer? Thank you
You can just pop the battery out and store it in a safe and dry place :)
Many traders sell for this watch the duracell battery DL2450. It's completely wrong because has different dimensions. The correct battery is CR2450 as the watch back side says.
Actually CR2450 comes in two kinds. One has a pronounced ledge/step and that's the only one that works. The other shape (more like a pill) won't fit the D4. Both shapes are sold under CR2450 3v designation. The only way to know is to physically see the battery in person.
How can i fix my suunto d4i always show the screen is like this hwerr:007
interesting sound effects ;-)
my screws are different! theyre like star-shaped
nice tutorial on how to damage or make your dive computer flooded in the future.
no new O-ring replacement
not ESD protected tools/gloves (anti estatic)
no pressure test done
From someone who have changed the battery about 4-5 times on my original D4 and 2-3 times in friends D4is I call your statement BS but perhaps you are fan boy or have a business to protect.
You know what killed my D4 in the end and two D4is that I know of? HWERR:009 - the failing depth sensor common issue that Suunto in many markets wont admit to is very much a flawed design - and has zero to do with battery changes. So, no leak ever in my 10-y-o D4 and that had the original o-ring. But yeah, do change the o-ring if you have the right size handy.
Ah, one more thing broke in that D4 - two of the four button springs rusted and snapped and I rinse my gear religously. Well done Suunto on not using a proper grade steel...
As for pressure testing, if you don't trust your assembly skills and really want peace of mind, you can build your own chamber for about USD20-30 out of a water filter, a few fittings and a bicycle pump. I did that, but not until I had already had my own D4 apart many times.
The only real issue is doing it in a dry environment so you wont have fogging.
Point is, if you can keep a dive torch or a camera housing from flooding, you can change a battery.
Also, why name yourself after a brand that has a track history of not admitting to design and manufacturing flaws? Remember the first gen straps for D4? They lasted how long? 1 year, 2 years? And cost a fortune to replace. I replaced mine once. When that POS died a year later, I was given one for free by a dive shop whose tech said Suunto had internally admitted they were crap and sent him a bunch of free ones. Meanwhile, other shops would still charge for the replacements. The "newer" silicone ones are great. The rubber ones were shit. I wonder how many divers dropped their D4s because the old rubber strap let go in the middle of a dive...
Let's circle back to that failing depth sensor that I see quite a bit these years. Suunto settled a class action lawsuit in the US on this matter - so that replacement is for free, as it should be. But I just got quoted USD357 for the same repair in the Phillippines. And about USD200 in Thailand two years ago. Same issue, different markets - well done Suunto...
But hey, thanks for weighing in...
(Your point on ESD is likely more valid, though fairly easy to remedy)
@@AntiVaganza I was searching how to fix suunto d4 failing button and came across this. Yes, a lot of divers agree with you. We had 4 divers lost their D4 due to poor quality straps already. Just wondering, do you have any recommendation for best low maintenance dive computer watch? We are looking to replace suunto if possible. I noticed this is from 3 years ago. I hope you read this.
Can anyone tell me if the d4f only reads in meters, can it read in feet as well?
It can also display depth in feet.
@@bmxbiker19892 thank you
A Philips screwdriver isn’t the correct one to use. You should use a special screwdriver for watches. I have changed my battery several times without a problem. Here in the Philippines you have to send your computer to the nearest service centre and it costs more than $50 and takes a few weeks. I don’t see much risk as I have had a few Suunto dive computers and the pressure sensor tends to fail after about 500 dives anyway which will require 2 battery changes!
For very early ones it is. They changed to Torx later on.
very risky, if you can not get the equal water enters. If the screw does not fit equally, the water will enter, the screw will be distorted too much.
first ring off i silicone grease after closing
you must attach screws when the cover is stationary.
thanks！！
Very funny of u …. Wlplplllplpplp😂
This is a terrible idea, for many reasons, get your computer serviced at a trained, accredited place.
I am surprised its that easy, looks like other then not taking the time to look at the o-ring you can't do much wrong other than it just won't fit, could go go a bit more into detail what concerns you, thanks!
Well I am not an expert but Ill just say what I realised:
1. You using the wrong size screwdriver, and there no way you can tell the torque you are doing that down with
2. Oring should be replaced not just inspected, and you shouldn't be touching it with your bare hand as they contain oils ect.
3. You touching the internals with without anti static band and again shouldnt be handling that with bare hands for the same reason.
4. as far as I know you should be compressing the cover with a special watch tool when putting back together to ensure the seal
Thats what I can tell you about this I am sure a watch/dive technician would give more in-site and I say again why risk your dive safety (and rather pricey replacement value of the watch) on a couple of bucks?
1. sound right that we don't know whats the optimal torque is... but I would think in combination with 4. that the pressure during a dive would actually increase the seal, but not sure^^
2. sound right as well though lot of guys have successfully done it that way even without adding some "lube"?
3. that sounds strange since some are recommending to add some lol (nut sure about the right name of that stuff though)
ALL IN ALL I am not sure what they charge you for the bat replacement on a 300€ watch (lets say it's 60€, that would be 1/5 of it's price lol)... sure would be tempted to do try it myself^^
....is my opinion, too...
IF this goes wrong, you are risking your life...