You did the correct thing by replacing those carb. boots, once they start cracking they will continue to crack until they go all the way through and the engine would likely blow.
Good info thanks! Glad I replaced them... Kinda hard to find! Any idea where to get CDI's for these things? I'd like to have one on hand but they are non-existent.
@@paulhaines5755 I've been fortune to live by several snowmobile junk yards. These places carry just about everything. I was able to replace my CDI box for a '96, which eliminated the rev limiter and the D.E.S.S key. Also after deleting the oil pump you may find you need to go up a few sizes in the jetting.
Good info. Thanks, Jeffrey! No junkyards here, so I'll have to make some calls or e-bay. Pretty sure mine's not DESS as I've replaced the deadman and it still runs so good to know that 96 is not DESS as you said. I'm just kinda worried the CDI will up and blow and I'll have to hunt for one. I had no idea they run 100:1 on injection! What ratio do you like to run on mix??? I also bypassed the injection on a Yamaha 1100 that I have mostly for the reason that I rebuilt the engine due to a blown piston and put a lot of time and work and $$$ into it and didn't want to risk a failed injection system. I run good full synthetic in most stuff and I am especially sure to on a rotax I have with a rotary valve - (fairly) cheap insurance. Headed out for a mountain ride tomorrow on my old Polaris Indy GT!
@@paulhaines5755 I should have explained further the oil injection is set up from the factory to deliver oil at varying ratios the engine speed.,... For example the idle speed would be the lowest demand set we will say 100/ 1 and full throttle to probably 40 to 1... The problem I had with mine was it all through the throttle range the return was sticky and consequently mine was laying down black smoke and was way too rich which killed the performance... Another good choice to get engine parts for Skidoo I would check with the Crank Shop out of Vermont... They have the ability to find things nobody else can..
Ebay, part# 420867775 With skidoo parts, you want to search with and without spaces. The manuals generally have spaces in the part numbers but I find that people list them without spaces. Paul
Ya those 600 had alot of crank trouble no one could ever give me an answer back then I had one of the first 500 that skidoo built for the 95 model year and I bought a new one in 97 the 1995 was better then the 1997
@@paulhaines5755 the reason the pto bearing failed in those engines and alot of the ski-doo engines is due to using that shit iso-flex grease instead of actual oil... over a few thousand miles the bearing failes and whaa lahh your taking it to the stealership so they can bend you over the counter and give you a good ass raping on labor and parts.. bombadier actually drilled a pilot hole in the upper case half to feed tha bearing but not all the way through.. so all you gotta do is drill it the rest of the way and then take a cobe shaped dremel and make kinda a bowl shape around that hole so the oil will pool up and drip nicely onto the bearing... problem solved.. its best to do that work with the case disassembled but with a shop vac handy you can pretty much suck out all the metal and for extra cleaning i always flush my cranks with gasoline tip the crank on its side on a 5 gallon pail so the gas can dump into there when flushing the crank then blow it out thoroughly with high pressure air gun.. problem solved
Thanks for much for the info! Great details. Wish I knew that when I had it tore down! I probably put like 100 or 200 miles on per year at most so I think I'll just keep my fingers crossed and it'll prob be fine.
@@paulhaines5755 you bet Paul, glad i can pass on the knowledge.. you ever have any questions about your sleds hit me up.. ive been working on snowmobiles for alot of years
Not sure what came first. Bent crank or bad bearing. I'd have to assume the bearing lost a ball or two then enough balls got ate up where the remaining all got stuck on one side of the race and created resonance that finally bent the crank. I've heard of it happening on other people's sleds. Hopefully my "fix-it" holds up. I gotta say this thing runs FANTASTIC and I haven't had any issues with it. Runs perfect, idles perfect starts easy hauls ace. One thing about old sleds I like to throw out there - check for exhaust leaks before you go messing with carbs and such. Rusty old pipes will fool you into thinking you got fuel or other issues. A leak under they hood will make em run like crap.
@@paulhaines5755 Yeah, These old sleds are awesome! I use to have a 95 mach 1 670. tons of fun and power but i could never get it past 7000 RPM Even had the manual for the whole sled which said top end should read 7800RPM WOT. Found out later on after carbs changed, etc, that the secondary clutch spring was weak! Who knew. You got your money's worth trust me cuz now when you even just look to buy these older ones the prices are insane!
@@juss-passin-thru Yea I just saw a 96 Inly Lite GT (which I also happen to own one of those) for sale at a dealer for $2200. Modest condition, 3000 miles. Seems way high to me! I just had all mine out yesterday for a few hours. Formula III ran like a champ...
Simply from Blowing a belt can cause the crank to bend like that.. gotta realize how much tension and pressure is being created in those clutches and belt and all sudden that all lets go all that rotating mass and energy can cause some serious damage..
@@juss-passin-thru did you adjust your clickers on your primary clutch at all? Each adjustment is 200 rpm. Your want higher rpm pull simply adjust your clicker up 1 or 2 settings untill it reaches the preferred rpm for elevation
Thank you so much, Dayle. I really appreciate your ummm positive input. Thank you. There are many people I know that don't like the name Dayle so you should probably change it and when you do I'll change the way a talk.
..but... in order to be fair, on the other hand, technically, your video was good, and I appreciate your detailed descriptions on fixing the problem(s), further more, describing the steps in order to aligning the clutch with the secondary drive was accurate. I'm pretty sure you have good mechanical skills, just the narration with , repetitive "umhs" will drive viewers away. your call. no prejudice on my part, just the "uhms". unfortunately it can display a lower level of intellect, or possibly a lack of focus. a thought, one should ponder....simply reducing the volume on my pc, made it somewhat less painful, but unfortunately disturbing. regardless, still "thumbs up" on my part, despite the criticism. the content was there.
Well done! Thank you sir. It's comments from people like you that make me want to continue making videos. I do have a lower level of intellect than most (if not pretty much all people) so it's good that you've helped point me in the right direction! I'll try to do better for you, Dayle.
@@paulhaines5755 lol! I see that sarcasm is one of your best traits...it also appears that your have limited spelling skills, as, possibly, intentionally misspelling my name?, "Pawl Hayns'.....lol! you're making me laugh....good sense of humor! btw, mid '90s sleds are far more attractive than the newer ones. I do have three '95 GT. 580, 2x670. I've been thinking of stuffing a 779 triple in one of them. a-um...hum........
3 years after , the governor cup in the clutch was a recall repair in January 1996. I snow checked an F III. That was the only issue I ever had.
You did the correct thing by replacing those carb. boots, once they start cracking they will continue to crack until they go all the way through and the engine would likely blow.
Good info thanks! Glad I replaced them... Kinda hard to find! Any idea where to get CDI's for these things? I'd like to have one on hand but they are non-existent.
@@paulhaines5755 I've been fortune to live by several snowmobile junk yards.
These places carry just about everything.
I was able to replace my CDI box for a '96, which eliminated the rev limiter and the D.E.S.S key. Also after deleting the oil pump you may find you need to go up a few sizes in the jetting.
Good info. Thanks, Jeffrey! No junkyards here, so I'll have to make some calls or e-bay. Pretty sure mine's not DESS as I've replaced the deadman and it still runs so good to know that 96 is not DESS as you said. I'm just kinda worried the CDI will up and blow and I'll have to hunt for one. I had no idea they run 100:1 on injection! What ratio do you like to run on mix??? I also bypassed the injection on a Yamaha 1100 that I have mostly for the reason that I rebuilt the engine due to a blown piston and put a lot of time and work and $$$ into it and didn't want to risk a failed injection system. I run good full synthetic in most stuff and I am especially sure to on a rotax I have with a rotary valve - (fairly) cheap insurance. Headed out for a mountain ride tomorrow on my old Polaris Indy GT!
@@paulhaines5755 I should have explained further the oil injection is set up from the factory to deliver oil at varying ratios the engine speed.,... For example the idle speed would be the lowest demand set we will say 100/ 1 and full throttle to probably 40 to 1... The problem I had with mine was it all through the throttle range the return was sticky and consequently mine was laying down black smoke and was way too rich which killed the performance... Another good choice to get engine parts for Skidoo I would check with the Crank Shop out of Vermont... They have the ability to find things nobody else can..
Where did you get those flanges from? The only part number I have, I can’t find.
Ebay, part# 420867775 With skidoo parts, you want to search with and without spaces. The manuals generally have spaces in the part numbers but I find that people list them without spaces. Paul
Ya those 600 had alot of crank trouble no one could ever give me an answer back then I had one of the first 500 that skidoo built for the 95 model year and I bought a new one in 97 the 1995 was better then the 1997
I hope you drilled the pto side crankcase hole for the crank bearing while you had it apart..
ooooooooooooo noooooo - was not aware of that mod. tell me more?
@@paulhaines5755 the reason the pto bearing failed in those engines and alot of the ski-doo engines is due to using that shit iso-flex grease instead of actual oil... over a few thousand miles the bearing failes and whaa lahh your taking it to the stealership so they can bend you over the counter and give you a good ass raping on labor and parts.. bombadier actually drilled a pilot hole in the upper case half to feed tha bearing but not all the way through.. so all you gotta do is drill it the rest of the way and then take a cobe shaped dremel and make kinda a bowl shape around that hole so the oil will pool up and drip nicely onto the bearing... problem solved.. its best to do that work with the case disassembled but with a shop vac handy you can pretty much suck out all the metal and for extra cleaning i always flush my cranks with gasoline tip the crank on its side on a 5 gallon pail so the gas can dump into there when flushing the crank then blow it out thoroughly with high pressure air gun.. problem solved
Thanks for much for the info! Great details. Wish I knew that when I had it tore down! I probably put like 100 or 200 miles on per year at most so I think I'll just keep my fingers crossed and it'll prob be fine.
@@paulhaines5755 you bet Paul, glad i can pass on the knowledge.. you ever have any questions about your sleds hit me up.. ive been working on snowmobiles for alot of years
Awesome! Yea - I've got some oldies but goodies...
I'm just wondering , what would cause the crank to have a runout like that? Or was it the bearing? Thanks. Great insight btw
Not sure what came first. Bent crank or bad bearing. I'd have to assume the bearing lost a ball or two then enough balls got ate up where the remaining all got stuck on one side of the race and created resonance that finally bent the crank. I've heard of it happening on other people's sleds. Hopefully my "fix-it" holds up. I gotta say this thing runs FANTASTIC and I haven't had any issues with it. Runs perfect, idles perfect starts easy hauls ace. One thing about old sleds I like to throw out there - check for exhaust leaks before you go messing with carbs and such. Rusty old pipes will fool you into thinking you got fuel or other issues. A leak under they hood will make em run like crap.
@@paulhaines5755 Yeah, These old sleds are awesome! I use to have a 95 mach 1 670. tons of fun and power but i could never get it past 7000 RPM Even had the manual for the whole sled which said top end should read 7800RPM WOT. Found out later on after carbs changed, etc, that the secondary clutch spring was weak! Who knew. You got your money's worth trust me cuz now when you even just look to buy these older ones the prices are insane!
@@juss-passin-thru Yea I just saw a 96 Inly Lite GT (which I also happen to own one of those) for sale at a dealer for $2200. Modest condition, 3000 miles. Seems way high to me! I just had all mine out yesterday for a few hours. Formula III ran like a champ...
Simply from Blowing a belt can cause the crank to bend like that.. gotta realize how much tension and pressure is being created in those clutches and belt and all sudden that all lets go all that rotating mass and energy can cause some serious damage..
@@juss-passin-thru did you adjust your clickers on your primary clutch at all? Each adjustment is 200 rpm. Your want higher rpm pull simply adjust your clicker up 1 or 2 settings untill it reaches the preferred rpm for elevation
I'll buy your flanges.
I'm sorry but I got rid of them. Thanks - Paul
50.00 cdn lol
the "uhm", every fifth or so word, drives people nuts...please work on your linguistics skills...after five minutes, I had to end the video.
Thank you so much, Dayle. I really appreciate your ummm positive input. Thank you. There are many people I know that don't like the name Dayle so you should probably change it and when you do I'll change the way a talk.
@@paulhaines5755 ah, da, um, umd, dar aint na y in ma naim, duh, uhm........a, uhm.....lol! ya meen daw-ya-el...as in de soudern u, as eh?
..but... in order to be fair, on the other hand, technically, your video was good, and I appreciate your detailed descriptions on fixing the problem(s), further more, describing the steps in order to aligning the clutch with the secondary drive was accurate. I'm pretty sure you have good mechanical skills, just the narration with , repetitive "umhs" will drive viewers away. your call. no prejudice on my part, just the "uhms". unfortunately it can display a lower level of intellect, or possibly a lack of focus. a thought, one should ponder....simply reducing the volume on my pc, made it somewhat less painful, but unfortunately disturbing. regardless, still "thumbs up" on my part, despite the criticism. the content was there.
Well done! Thank you sir. It's comments from people like you that make me want to continue making videos. I do have a lower level of intellect than most (if not pretty much all people) so it's good that you've helped point me in the right direction! I'll try to do better for you, Dayle.
@@paulhaines5755 lol! I see that sarcasm is one of your best traits...it also appears that your have limited spelling skills, as, possibly, intentionally misspelling my name?, "Pawl Hayns'.....lol! you're making me laugh....good sense of humor! btw, mid '90s sleds are far more attractive than the newer ones. I do have three '95 GT. 580, 2x670. I've been thinking of stuffing a 779 triple in one of them. a-um...hum........