Dressing your Anvil for better forging
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2023
- A blacksmith's anvil doesn't need to be perfect. But removing chips along the edges and radiusing the corners will result in smoother forgings.
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Below you will find useful links that will help you in your journey as a blacksmith.
To find more information in blacksmithing in the US or to search for your local ABANA affiliate group visit.
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Blacksmithing tools and supplies
Self contained air hammers - www.saymakhammers.com/
General blacksmithing supplies - www.oleoacresfarriersupply.com/
General blacksmithing supplies - www.piehtoolco.com/
General blacksmithing supplies - www.centaurforge.com/
General blacksmithing supplies - www.blacksmithsdepot.com/
General blacksmithing supplies - www.blacksmithsupply.com/
Square head bolts and lags - www.blacksmithbolt.com/
New anvils - www.oldworldanvils.com/
New anvils - www.nimbaanvils.com/
New anvils -
Industrial supplier - www.mcmaster.com
Tong blanks and tools - kensironstore.com/
Fire brick and refractory - refwest.com
Blacksmithing and related activities can be hazardous. These videos are not a substitute for competent professional instruction. Your safety is your sole responsibility. Always use appropriate safety equipment including eye and ear protection when working in the shop. Follow manufactures safety guidelines for the use of all equipment. In the event something shown in one of these videos seems unsafe, it is up to you to make the appropriate changes to protect yourself.t yourself.
I bought a toolless nut for my angle grinder long time ago and when the boss issued each team an angle grinder+drill/driver kit and the first thing I did after using it was get another and give him the receipt.
When I need a tool I buy Metabo if they make it. Their grinders use metal gears in the head unlike the plastic one's used by other manufacturers. Quality tools are a joy to use if you can afford them.
I have never seen an angle grinder with a plastic bevel gear....
I have an anvil that has a 4" chunk missing out of the face, could you do a video on welding the anvil so I have a better idea of how to fix it?
Thank you. I inherited an anvil from my great grandfather. I'm hesitant to do anything to clean it up as I have another anvil. But the idea of just correcting the flaws that could cause future damage and making it useful is a good concept to me.
Thanks for sharing with us John, great job working on the anvil and sharing your new tools that were sent to you. Everyone of the new tools performed really well. You did a really nice job on the anvil and dressed it up enough to see what you have to work with and around. Stay safe around there get the snow equipment ready for work . Fred.
Thank you again for another great video.
It was a great renovation of this beautiful old anvil. This little workshop is getting very cozy.😊
good show, insightful for new smiths
As a newbie smith I fell in love with those flap disks John. I watched a You Tube video awhile back about how to make an anvil from a piece of railroad rail and I used some of those flap disks to shape the horn and flatten out the anvil area. I have since then purchased a 132 lb Accaio anvil that I am now using. I still have my trusty old home made anvil that I also use in a pinch. Many thanks for the fantastic videos sir! Because of you I've learned a LOT even though I am still an amateur newbie smith.
Nice Video thanks for sharing all your knowledge
I rarely use a hard disk anymore since I discovered flap disks, however I haven't gotten used to the stink of them . . . And you are sure right on using the 'imperfections' to your advantage.
Nice to see you getting some “free” stuff John. Your right up there with the influencers in my mind. Enjoy your day.
Another great video. I have a circa 1830's Peter Wright that I use in my small shop. It came to me with a sway as I found out happened quite often with older wrought-iron anvils. Though not perfect, I have learned to use as you said the imperfections Thanks for another great video.
Those sways, if not large, are great for helping straighten slight bends in long stock. I have a very slight sway in my HB and use it all the time for straightening
David, I also have a Peter Wright anvil. No idea how old it is but it also has a sway on the face. I have wondered about hard surfacing rod but that would be a huge job for me. Thanks for your thoughts on learning to work with what I have 😊
All the best,
Norm in Arizona
Thank you so much for showing me how to clean up my anvil.
This is an excellent tutorial on anvil maintenance. Great tips on what to fix and what to leave alone. Thank you for sharing Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Really like those ideas, been thinking I would like my old anvil to be nicer and I think this is a good approach.
amazing. I only dressed my anvil properly after watching classes from Black metal studio. Its fascinating how it actually really affect the work done on the edges. great videos as always John! love from france
I love your videos. Thank you so much.
John very nice job. Hopefully it works out very well there. Can't wait to see more updates an projects and many more videos soon my friend. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep forge lit Keep Making. God bless.
Really love that light!
I think will come in quite handy
Thank you.
Great video and good explanation for the new smiths out there. My poor small 100lb Vulcan was in dire need of dressing. I bought it about 15 yrs ago and dressed it as soon as it got to the forge. I am looking for a new anvil atm. The Hay Budden in my outdoor forge is huge and was also dressed. I do like to keep a sharp edge somewhere on the anvil if I can though.
Thanks for another great video John. I also haven’t done much dressing on my daily anvil which is a 409lb Peter Wright. I too find the imperfections useful. My face is also not perfect, it has some light pitting but not harming the end product so it’s find for now.
It was good to see the different sized radius grinds you made. I feel like I may need to make some slightly bigger as mine are so small that they almost form cold shuts when bending.
Morning Mr John.
Great video! Love the practical approach and common sense points. All to often I see " oh those edges.....gots weld or it's to trashed, or you have to mill that face...." luckily fine guys like you can set them straight.
Did get a new 132lb vevor to dedicate to the new air assist heavy hammer from CCI Roy Adams. So I'll get to dress that one up soon.
Blessings y'all
Crawford out 🙏🔥⚒️🧙🏼♂️
Thanks
Wow, that drill looks pretty awesome as does that battery-powered light.
I have a Hay Budden anvil, around 100# or so and all the edges are heavily radiused, probably from years of use. Even the face is radiused with the center being lower than the ends. I don't want to get into trying to flatten it back out so I use it as is. This was some great info. You offer some of the best practical information available and I look forward to every video.
OY!!! that Metabo light! my first thought on it it would have been nice to have a few of them on the firetruck/emergency rescue vehicle instead of having to run cords allover from a generator!
Looks like the exact type of anvil in the Railing shop I work in.
I always lost the angle grinder wrenches but then I started zip tying them to the power cord
Now each grinder has its own little wrench and it’s a good reminder to unplug the tool when changing discs
My old Peter Wright 275 came to me needing to be dressed, and I haven't had the courage to do it yet. Your video inspires me to try, and do so gently at first with a fairly soft flap disk. Thanks!
Please add a Jealousy Trigger warning the next time you post about your Peter Wright 275! :)
Binding shut-off? Now thats new, and the swiveling battery is cool, kinda like that new table saw of yours.
Thanks for your video. I looked at the drilling machine on the Metabosite and it is very special. The lowest transmission goes up to 450 revolutions per minute. This makes it especially suitable for drilling with slow speed in steel and stainless steel. I am a fan of Metabo for its high quality. Just like Makita, they have been in the metalworking industry for years. The lifespan of their machines is very long. About the impulse function tels the site: Selectable "impulse" mode for removal of stubborn screws and for spot-drilling on smooth surfaces
The surface of blades is always ground and polished, so a rough surface wouldn't matter. Thanks for the video - I just bought a new old anvil last weekend and was wondering how best to go about it.
Congrats, you hit 300k subs, did that just happen or have I missed it in the past? I remember the first time I watched your videos you had 28K. I did welding and blacksmithing in high school, I’m your age and retired so I’ve decided to get back into both and just acquired an old 120 lb ACME anvil. Let the adventure begin!
My favorite dressing for my anvil is ranch
I guess this is my sign to go dress my anvil, noticed it was to sharp on a few edges last time I was working.
I dressed it when I got it, but it’s that dinky little acciaio, and I think the edge has mushroomed a little.
The key message here is really that you can always grind off more material later, but it's hard to un-grind something if you get too eager.
Same goes with blacksmithing
If your anvil still has "sharp" corners on the face right above the step, I would recommend leaving them if possible. That/those are usually the places for scarfing the rod used to forge weld chain links or other similar welds. Mine were chipped off before I bought my anvil and the chips make rough scarps. I now have to use the corners on the heel which are still fairly good.
I have an old (pre1820) Mousehole anvil. The usual sweet spot is probably close to1/8-3/16 low. I know it’s there and work more near the heel of the anvil. Some day I’d like to try to mill it down .I have tried grinding but the face is terribly harf
Most of my tools are Hitachi Koki so when Metabo took over I was a little sad. I thought the serviceability of my old tools was history. I was wrong. Metabo is a great company so if you are an owner of "their" older tools like I am no worries. However there are a few improvements in their new tools and eventually you may want to upgrade. Just an FYI.
You say boring, I say ooh sparklies
i watched this video and i ran out to dress my anvil :D
Wow John, those edge rounds look huge to me (maybe it's the camera angle). Especially in that most-used first section, I think it would really bug me to try to work with that much rounding. Obviously opinions and methods differ, and you were limited by the damage you were trying to grind out. It also seems like you use butchering a lot more often, which works, but seems like a complicated way to achieve crisper corners. I started dressing small rounds on my anvil and have never found a desire to increase them. Interesting to see what works for you.
Metabo always makes good stuff. That rotating battery feature looks really nice.
What kind of rod is best, to weld/repair an anvil?
Can I use 2110 rods to build up a missing chuck of horn on an old anvil? I assume I would have to preheat much of the anvil and grind off much rust...but shame to find a decent anvil in a barn that is a door stop...
Was there room for any markings other than the model number of the grinder on the case. What happened to model 21A, or BG33.😮
I see an awful lot of anvils with sharpened horns where people just don't realise that a knock on a horn like that is a bone deep penetration, especially if you're using a hammer at the time or carrying something...extremely unpleasant.
I like the look of the metabo tools, I think they will be on my list for next time I need one, I get tired of losing the spanners too. I don't like these bare bones tools though I find that annoying, I would much prefer to get only one battery as standard with an option for two.
When I got my big Trenton it was already in decent shape with just one large chip, but it came with a smaller anvil (probably also a Trenton) that had been horribly abused. Poor thing had it's tail broken off at the hardy hole and someone had used the horn as a plasma cutting table. The face is mostly flat but there's another plasma cutting spot and the edges are chipped quite a bit. I don't know if I have it in me to dress up the big anvil but I really want to try and save the smaller one. I really wish I had the tail for it but it's lost. I'll need to figure out how to remake it from scratch and weld it back in place.
The Anvil Repairs channel here on UA-cam has been working on an anvil with a missing tail. ua-cam.com/video/zziSro6yEvw/v-deo.htmlsi=5cCmDc8aSlBCuDh3
Thanks, I'll check it out
I know you've done a few videos on quieting noisy anvils but I recently found a great way to silence mine that I wanted to share. I have two magnets with little carabiner hanging off a loop and that little dangling material really takes the sharp ring out like a silencer on a bow string. I'd be really interested to see if it works for anyone else. My anvil is on a stump and is just bolted down with handmade bars. No other silencing on it and it is pretty quiet
Also a good note is that they are hanging under the foot and the horn so the dangling bits can move freely
Do you typically radius all the edges on a new anvil or just up near the horn so you have a sharp edge to bend material on?
Yes, a sharp edge will create stress points. The radius doesn't have to be very big, but it should not be a sharp 90 degree engle
@@BlackBearForge Thank you!
❤❤❤❤
I just bought my first real anvil, a brand new 440 double horn by Holland Anvil. I get taking off less as I can take off more, but what is a good starting point? I saw one article state 3/8" radius at the face and an 1/4" at the horn horn for that size anvil, but that seems excessive. Any recommendations would be appreciated!
A 3/8"radius would be the same as a 3/4"diameter bar and that seems way to large for normal work. I would start around 1/8" radius or 1/4" diameter just to knock of the sharp edges.
@@BlackBearForge thank you so much!
I have a very used old anvil, how much material would i be able to remover before the top plate is comprised
I try to avoid taking too much off. My guess is that you should leave the face at least 1/2"
Love this video and I need to do it for my new anvil…. Hey, looks like my latest video is tanking, any advice for me?
Just keep uploading. Not every video will do well and over time you figure out what your audience really wants. Although I must admit, every time I think I have it figured out things don't go as planned.
@@BlackBearForge thank you for the good words! I’m experienced in the real world but still getting my UA-cam intelligence! Much appreciated!!!
@@BlackBearForge and for a big channel like yours to take the time say some positivity my way means a lot! Thanks again!
@@BlackBearForge Thank you taking the time to respond! I just keep chugging along then! much appreciated!
Maybe dumb question, but could anvil be made without hardened face plate? (all cast in one piece for example) And how to distinguish welded face plate from all-cast anvil?
Most new anvils are cast from a single piece of tool steel. Its pretty easy to tell a cast anvil from an older wrought iron anvil.
I got a small 55 lbs anvil but its face is really smushy and doesn’t quite take a hit properly what can I do?
If its cast iron, there isn't much that can be done. If it's steel the face can be built up with hard facing rod. Thats a lot of work and it might be better to just by a new anvil. There are a number of imports out there that aren't bad and cost around $150 such as this one s.vevor.com/bfQn97
not boring, informative.
but hey b.s. is blacksmithing intials 🤪
What is with the etsy shop? The prices are in a weird currency
It looks fine from my end.
@@BlackBearForge I think it had something to do with the app, I reinstalled it and everything went back to a normal price
Those high end knives seem like more or a grinding process than a forging process anyway
John, I would like to suggest that you consider moving your merchandise to somewhere other than spring/teespring. I have a bunch of stuff from them, and every order has had issues with quality (misprints, crooked or misaligned prints, poor materials, wearing out quickly, etc.), and their customer service is abysmal. Plenty of other people have reported the same experience. Many other channels have moved for these reasons. I have a bunch of your stuff from the etsy store, and would like to order more. But I no longer buy any products from teespring. There are better options.
You should have used a picture of you putting clothes on the anvil for the thumbnail
That had crossed my mind
It's a great video, but I have a question:
The concept of this series is to show us how it is to build a new shop from scratch, while learning how to forge, on a budget, right?
The thing is, we can't get free tools from Metabo for our budget shop, or anvils given by our viewers.
So how can I trust this "Building from scratch" concept? I mean it's pretty far from the reality I am experiencing on a daily basis
Two different series of videos. The affordable blacksmithing set up was its own short series on how you can get started. Setting up my own fully functional shop space that isn't connected to the power grid is a whole different thing and isn't cheap.
@@BlackBearForge Thanks for this answer, and sorry for my mistake!
Keep up the awesome videos, you're teaching us newbies a lot!
John,
Congratulations on reaching the 300k subscribers, great milestone.
Thanks again for a great instructional video, I had to do some repairs to the anvil I got from my brother before I could use it, I certainly agree, go slow and take off only what is needed. Mine had some bad pitting and chipping at the hardy hole so I had to do some welding and grinding there, a carbide bit and die grinder made quick work of the repairs.
The Metabo tools look and sound like quality products, I have an old drill master ⅜" impact that the battery pack can be rotated but no positive stops on it, I have found it useful at times to get the battery out of the way, not often but a few times.
Keep up the great work, I'm looking forward to your next video.
John V.