There is a website that tells you the range that you can tune certain strings to based on their thickness, this is great as you are not over stretching the string to bring it into tune. I think is was the same website that told you the tension on that string when tuned. So this enables you to chose the 3 strings and they all have the same tension or there about when they are in tune. I am not sure I have the link to that site, it has been so long since I used it. It was great as there was even tension across all three strings and you have assurance you are not going to snap a string when bringing it into tune. The other plus is that in some cases, you do not have to use wound strings to get the note you want, and it makes it quieter when using the slide.
I've been having issues with my 27" baritone resonator figuring out what string sizes to use. I'll get there eventually as it one of those things I fiddle around with while studying other problems. I tune it to EBe and my shorter scale git-fiddles to GDg. That way if I'm wanting to play something and the song calls for EBe, I've got it ready to go.
I just finished my first CBG this week based on a simple Padron box. I used CBGitty acoustic string-set that had 042", .030" and .022" gauges. The 22 is a bit heavy I think for a high string. It's noticeably tighter and harder to bend. Fortunately, it's a six-string pack, so I'll probably swap out the 22 for a one of the lighter strings without the windings. I think that will make a big difference and also quiet the finger noise when sliding. Your UA-cam channel and the Master Builder video series was a great source of information and inspiration and although I made a lot of aesthetic experience-building mistakes, my first CBG turned out great. It is very playable and a lot of fun. My wife bought 3-4 other boxes, so it looks like I'll be building a few more.
For the low string intonation in addition to the 12th fret harmonic I also match the note at the 19th fret with it's harmonic and I find I get slightly better intonation... I don't remember what video I found that on, ond of yours or someone else's... 5:55 ... I have the same strings on a cbg I made at least 5 or 6 (or so) years ago! It is my favorite and "go to" cbg! I like the way they have worn (there is less of the "swooshy" sound of fingers sliding up and down), they have acquired a soft sound, and like Freddie Mercury never had dental work done to correct his huge overbite in fear it would change the character if his voice I have never changed those strings! I don't even mind the dimples where the frers have worn down the windings on the strings! 😂😂😂 One thing I have noted: I rarely use a tuner for intonation, something always seemed off. I almost always intonate by ear now ...
As far as intonation is concerned, is there a mathematical formula to having balanced strings or is it always trial and error? I want to tune to low D on a 23 and a bit inches from nut to bridge using nickel wound strings. I can't get the 3 packs here easily. I've been trying 52, 42 and 30 gauges but they don't seem right. The low string in particular is too slack in D.
Interesting dilemma. Intonation is at best trying to get close. So many factors; string dimension, scale length, action, type of bridge and how hard you fret and play.
With G D G tuning my low G string sounds OK. When I tune down to E it rattles. When I position the slide over fret 12 it is perfectly in tune with open E. When I press down on the fret it goes sharp????
The string height (action) may be a little high. After the build, you can adjust the string height by changing the bridge height. If it's too high, the strings will go sharp when you fret. Too and they'll hit the lower frets - Like if you fret 12, the string may contact a lower fret like 15 or 17 and buzz or make that higher pitch. Leveling the frets (a light sanding process) can help that if it's not too far out. Or maybe just tapping the fret in with a hammer, or pressing it in and gluing it... On a regular guitar there are built in adjustments for neck angle, bridge height and position. On a CBG the neck is usually not adjustable after the build. If the neck is screwed on rather than glued, you could adjust it by shaving or shimming. Or the best strategy might be to make a note that this CBG is best with a slide and improve the build on the next one. :)
i know its not the topic of the video, but i got a question for frets. im planing to build a guitar and i dont know if brass frets have similar resistant as the steel ones. i dont know if you have tried too much brass frets, but i would like to know if they are gonna get flat flat too soon with the friction of the string. thanks
@@PuckettCigarBoxGuitar seems like not many guitars use brass frets because of the sound and the super low durability (unless the frets are made of brass + steel or some rare mix of metals). I thought that would be great because brass frets are cheapest in my country but nevermind. I knew brass is less strong than steel but i never experienced the erosion that the string make on it along the time
There is a website that tells you the range that you can tune certain strings to based on their thickness, this is great as you are not over stretching the string to bring it into tune. I think is was the same website that told you the tension on that string when tuned. So this enables you to chose the 3 strings and they all have the same tension or there about when they are in tune. I am not sure I have the link to that site, it has been so long since I used it. It was great as there was even tension across all three strings and you have assurance you are not going to snap a string when bringing it into tune. The other plus is that in some cases, you do not have to use wound strings to get the note you want, and it makes it quieter when using the slide.
I've been having issues with my 27" baritone resonator figuring out what string sizes to use. I'll get there eventually as it one of those things I fiddle around with while studying other problems. I tune it to EBe and my shorter scale git-fiddles to GDg. That way if I'm wanting to play something and the song calls for EBe, I've got it ready to go.
I just finished my first CBG this week based on a simple Padron box. I used CBGitty acoustic string-set that had 042", .030" and .022" gauges. The 22 is a bit heavy I think for a high string. It's noticeably tighter and harder to bend. Fortunately, it's a six-string pack, so I'll probably swap out the 22 for a one of the lighter strings without the windings. I think that will make a big difference and also quiet the finger noise when sliding.
Your UA-cam channel and the Master Builder video series was a great source of information and inspiration and although I made a lot of aesthetic experience-building mistakes, my first CBG turned out great. It is very playable and a lot of fun. My wife bought 3-4 other boxes, so it looks like I'll be building a few more.
your life will never be the same!! 👍🏽😎
@@PuckettCigarBoxGuitarfound it .cheers
All of them is the answer
heheheee this guy gets it !!!
What about filing the notch down on the Es and sliding the bridge back? That might work
For the low string intonation in addition to the 12th fret harmonic I also match the note at the 19th fret with it's harmonic and I find I get slightly better intonation... I don't remember what video I found that on, ond of yours or someone else's...
5:55 ... I have the same strings on a cbg I made at least 5 or 6 (or so) years ago! It is my favorite and "go to" cbg! I like the way they have worn (there is less of the "swooshy" sound of fingers sliding up and down), they have acquired a soft sound, and like Freddie Mercury never had dental work done to correct his huge overbite in fear it would change the character if his voice I have never changed those strings! I don't even mind the dimples where the frers have worn down the windings on the strings! 😂😂😂
One thing I have noted: I rarely use a tuner for intonation, something always seemed off. I almost always intonate by ear now ...
yup double triple check!! 😉
Thank you Del. But I don't quite understand because then won't the slide position be out of tune at 12th fret??
you’ll have to compensate somewhere… that why you need multiple instruments… some dedicated FRETS and some dedicated SLIDE 😏
you could use a bone saddle like on an acoustic and compensate them. Ramp the middle a little forward and the two outside ones a little back. Boom.
As far as intonation is concerned, is there a mathematical formula to having balanced strings or is it always trial and error? I want to tune to low D on a 23 and a bit inches from nut to bridge using nickel wound strings. I can't get the 3 packs here easily. I've been trying 52, 42 and 30 gauges but they don't seem right. The low string in particular is too slack in D.
when i figure it out ill let you know…
@@PuckettCigarBoxGuitar 😄
Interesting dilemma.
Intonation is at best trying to get close. So many factors; string dimension, scale length, action, type of bridge and how hard you fret and play.
yup - the struggle is real…
With G D G tuning my low G string sounds OK. When I tune down to E it rattles. When I position the slide over fret 12 it is perfectly in tune with open E. When I press down on the fret it goes sharp????
yup you’re increasing the tension in the string by pressing it down to the fret … you can compensate by moving the saddle back …
The string height (action) may be a little high. After the build, you can adjust the string height by changing the bridge height. If it's too high, the strings will go sharp when you fret. Too and they'll hit the lower frets - Like if you fret 12, the string may contact a lower fret like 15 or 17 and buzz or make that higher pitch.
Leveling the frets (a light sanding process) can help that if it's not too far out. Or maybe just tapping the fret in with a hammer, or pressing it in and gluing it...
On a regular guitar there are built in adjustments for neck angle, bridge height and position. On a CBG the neck is usually not adjustable after the build. If the neck is screwed on rather than glued, you could adjust it by shaving or shimming. Or the best strategy might be to make a note that this CBG is best with a slide and improve the build on the next one. :)
i know its not the topic of the video, but i got a question for frets. im planing to build a guitar and i dont know if brass frets have similar resistant as the steel ones. i dont know if you have tried too much brass frets, but i would like to know if they are gonna get flat flat too soon with the friction of the string. thanks
i’m curious also …. not sure … lemme know what you find out 😏
@@PuckettCigarBoxGuitar seems like not many guitars use brass frets because of the sound and the super low durability (unless the frets are made of brass + steel or some rare mix of metals). I thought that would be great because brass frets are cheapest in my country but nevermind. I knew brass is less strong than steel but i never experienced the erosion that the string make on it along the time
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