It would be super cool to offer a vertical 4x10 in this kind of configuration. Bass closer to your ears and takes less real estate on stage. Your stuff is awesome. Cant wait to order soon.
We can definitely do a modular Three10+Extra10 4x10CR stack. I guess if enough people want a tall narrow version of the Four10 it’s not impossible to do, but we’ve got a lot of other stuff to do first. I really like the idea of a Three10 with a matching width 1x10CR you stack on top for tight stages or louder gigs, and then use the 1x10CR for quieter situations.
@@BarefacedAudio actually your right. I like the modular aspect as well. But wouldn't a 4 ohm 3x10 paired with an 8 ohm 1x10 reduce the ohms below a 4 ohm load? My head doesn't support 2 ohm loads. I know you have the answer lol. I'm just curious how that would work?
@@Jack-zc9el it would be a 4 ohm nominal Three10 with a 12 ohm Extra10, giving an also 4 ohm nominal load. Same as we do with a 4 ohm Six10 paired with a 12 ohm Two10S, giving a 4 ohm nominal load. It works because the 10CR drivers in Hybrid Resonator cabs are particularly easy loads, without the dips in impedance or swings in phase that upset amps, so we can be a lot more relaxed about minimum impedances.
What I really need is a 32 x 10, a Powersoft K20, a 40 amp circuit, a loudspeaker management system, and a decent bass pedal and a good 5 string. Oh and a flatbed truck to carry this enormous rig around.
I've been fascinated by the "hybrid resonator" concept and trying to guess what it is. Whether there is a high tuned ported box for the speaker inside a low tuned ported box, which gives the speakers a smaller enclosure when playing higher bass frequencies, then at the tuning of the highs, the other port might pass them because in the remaining box volume it's tuned higher, then when getting into deeper lows, the small high tuned box "leaks" out the port and feeds the entire box volume with the outer port for a lower tuning. The other thing I'm wondering about is a ported "cavern" within the box that resonates at higher frequencies and effectively closes itself off reducing box volume for upper bass, then "leaks" at lower frequencies, turning the entire enclosure into a low tuned ported box. At the same time, the outer port's tuning has increased, due to the cavern being "closed off" by being above its tuning frequency and the port not letting air in, and the available box volume shrinking. I know you have intellectual property to protect but is it the double ported box above, or the ported box with an empty ported chamber inside? Though one thing I've noticed is that it doesn't seem to require a lot of port area. The big 8 x 10 cab has a couple of ~6" ports on the bottom, yet for a conventional ported, a big slot port down either side or both would be more appropriate. I think if you just used a ported box that's tuned low and slightly undersized, it would still be a bit big for boosting mid-bass frequencies, but not big enough to amplify the low bass as much. It looks like it would be quite a good design for a compact car audio subwoofer box.
@@jotunbjorn I didn't knew this... But after some research I found also some old 3x12 cabinets from Marshall and Fender... The idea isn't new, but it was used for bass. I think there are some really cool options to use different speakers with special characters to create unique sounds.
I made my own 3x12 last year comprised of a vintage 30 and 2 G12H 30w anniversaries. The idea was to run the 2 h30s in series and the v30 parallel to them. The load comes out to 120w at 8ohms. All of the speakers are rated at roughly the same sensitivity and are splitting the power proportionally so in theory they should be performing similarly with the slight caveat that the anniversaries are doubled so they should be more present and I can say... it is a damn good sounding cabinet.
@@joshshultz1250 I can imagine that this combination sounds great. I like the Anniversary speaker and it's a good idea to combine it with the V30. I'm not sure what cabinet I should use. Maybe I should make it by myself. I have to watch some videos about self made cabinets... I like the idea to have a 3 x12 cabinet.
Remember that doubling the power only increases perceived volume by 3dB (a decibel being the smallest incremental change in sound a human ear can detect), but that increased efficiency greatly increases potential volume from the same size amp, and that the purpose of more power is 'not' more volume, but more headroom: the ability to reproduce a signal 'without' 'adding distortion of its own before it starts to breakup.
There are some good points in this comment but also some errors too - rather than enter into a philosophical debate of how power can only increase headroom through increased maximum SPL, I suggest you watch some of the numerous videos on our channel which aim to educate musicians on how sound works and how audio equipment works.
For the purpose of clarification, we'll say that the 3dB (which literally means 10^0.3) is interpreted by the brain as "roughly 20-25% louder" that is if you imagined a volume control on a TV, and you turned it from say "50" to "61" you'd get about a 3 decibel increase, or if you turned it down to "41" a 3 dB drop, though it depends on the individual curve chosen by the TV makers. Obviously the perceived headroom is also going to be identical, but if you were close to the limits on your old amp, you will get a much cleaner sound at the same level on the new amp. Because our conscious brain hears in roughly a cube root curve, it won't take that much extra to max out the new amp. In terms of the adage "will clipping damage my speakers?", power handling of a speaker is band dependent, ESPECIALLY for a multi way speaker. A woofer by itself will handle roughly similar power at all frequencies - impedance, sensitivity changes and coil cooling motion aside. A 500 watt woofer crossed to a 50 watt midrange and 20 watt tweeter will have a lot less power handling at the top end (though the drivers will make up for it in sensitivity increase). A clipped signal will usually put more emphasis in the mids and highs, though similar to a really twangy bass tone, which might take the mid and tweeter beyond power limits, compared to a more powerful clean amp, that will send power increase evenly between the drivers. If you want a Lemmy motorhead sound loud, you might want to use beefy mid-drivers and turn down the tweeter. A woofer only cab it doesn't matter much about clipping a smaller amp, only if it exceeds short or long term power ratings.
@@BarefacedAudio Errors? No. Generalizations, yes! All things considered, an efficient cabinet 'was' a cheaper way to get more volume; although new amplifier designs have leveled that playing field as watts are grown cheap these days. Even so, those who stand to profit are determined to ensure that dB's 'stay' expensive.
@@philosophicallyspeaking6463 You're insane if you actually believe the human brain can only perceive volume differences of 3db or greater... or you've never sat at a mixing console.
@@joshshultz1250 Hi Josh! A 'single' dB is literally defined as being the smallest incremental change the human ear can perceive. Where in my comment did you get that triple that amount, or 3 dB, is the threshold? The name decibel is given to and tied specifically to that perceptual threshold. If you don't know that, you also won't know that '3 dB' is the quantitative increase in perceived volume won by doubling the power of a amplifier. If it is just a case that you misread you need to recant, but if you are in anyway connected with the industry, you might want to delete your comment as it shows you in a poor professional light.
@@luka3679 The Three10 will have no problem handling the power from the Hiwatt and will sound very similar to the Six10, just a bit less LOUD. There's also the Four10 if you need a wider cab for the head to sit on.
I use a Noble preamp and I like it so much I just use it through the fx return in my bass amp and skip the pre. I think the 310 would be the ideal cab for me, any chance you fancy making a powered version. Or can you recommend a power amp that would work well with it? (preferably a physically small power amp)
We haven't developed a power module for our bass cabs just yet - our 200w active guitar cab module is complete which will hopefully lead to some headway in its development. You might want to go for something like this if you have the budget: - www.bassdirect.co.uk/product/grbass-pure-amp/ - www.crownaudio.com/en/products/xls-1502 The EHX 44 Magnum is designed for guitarists, so don't be tempted by it's size (and price!) but if you're willing to spend upwards of a few hundred quid/bucks then one of the Seymour Duncan Powerstage pedals should be sufficient for bass (and is quite compact)
"Avoid unneeded phasing issues." -said no one who's ever owned a 412, listened to music, or played guitar Get off the internet, and go talk to people, face to face...before you lose the ability to do it.
I think the most important thing about phase is that sometimes it really matters and sometimes it really doesn’t matter! And sometimes differences in phase are actually beneficial (like the sound of both pickups at full on a Jazz bass).
JL: audio been doing 3 ohm coils for three decades. I use a KBA50 Peavey.. 10" and 1" bi-amped with 3 channels a loop and DI.. it has better dispersion because the tweeter.. which looks like a better tweeter than that cabinet has... it's a closed package and quite often.. I run a Subwoofer.. getting PA support is critical. using anything beyond one cabinet is a waste 100db efficiency and 750w power handling is just off. like no way. proof please. at some point around 128 watts it's just wasted power and yeah.. there's no way those will do both linear. I usually run compression on one channel and dirt on the other.. which when bypassed I have a clean-compressed parallel and two open channels... so.. I run stereo out from my bass... one channel P bass the other MM.. best part. I paid $20 for the whole thing. adding the subwoofer was just for giggles but I use a 10" 400w powered with a line thru off my DI out. just to add a bump in the bottom end of my tone. I have no use for that. I don't see any value in that. how would I connect it to say.. a Traynor dynabass 800h
I’m a little bit confused - why is 100dB sensitivity and 750W power handling so strange? Why is 128W the max amount of power a speaker can use without wasting it? If you can get the tone and SPL you want with a 1x10” keyboard combo then that’s great but I know I can’t (whether adding a sub or not) and nor can most of our customers!
@BarefacedAudio 20db roughly 128 w. On top of 100db efficiency that's 120db. Reasonable to assume that's clear and workable.. gaining another 10db just seems both unlikely and not worth it. Having that headroom would be nice. I heard aperiodic which I'm familiar with. There's always a trade off. I'd like to see the 130db response of that cabinet
@@TimpBizkit it's called a DI.. 3 weird 10" are either too many or not enough failing both while offering absolutely nothing. I'll take a 40 watt single with a good tweeter.. in a combo with a DI any day. QTC final being more important than anything else.. again if it can't move air it's gonna need a DI and be portable. 3- 10" worked really well in sealed enclosures as subwoofers.. but leaky bass cabs.. which is what an aperiodic is.. just embarrassing
@TimpBizkit my response is ultimately no. 3 suck. If you want to have big wasteful power amps go ahead. Efficiency wins the competition. Neomag with a LOW QTC I would prefer if it doesn't want more than 40 watts. I could run 400w head with 10 of them
It would be super cool to offer a vertical 4x10 in this kind of configuration. Bass closer to your ears and takes less real estate on stage. Your stuff is awesome. Cant wait to order soon.
We can definitely do a modular Three10+Extra10 4x10CR stack. I guess if enough people want a tall narrow version of the Four10 it’s not impossible to do, but we’ve got a lot of other stuff to do first. I really like the idea of a Three10 with a matching width 1x10CR you stack on top for tight stages or louder gigs, and then use the 1x10CR for quieter situations.
@@BarefacedAudio actually your right. I like the modular aspect as well. But wouldn't a 4 ohm 3x10 paired with an 8 ohm 1x10 reduce the ohms below a 4 ohm load? My head doesn't support 2 ohm loads. I know you have the answer lol. I'm just curious how that would work?
@@Jack-zc9el it would be a 4 ohm nominal Three10 with a 12 ohm Extra10, giving an also 4 ohm nominal load. Same as we do with a 4 ohm Six10 paired with a 12 ohm Two10S, giving a 4 ohm nominal load. It works because the 10CR drivers in Hybrid Resonator cabs are particularly easy loads, without the dips in impedance or swings in phase that upset amps, so we can be a lot more relaxed about minimum impedances.
@@BarefacedAudio gotcha thanks
COOL cab ,sounds awesome distortion ,fuzz ,clean, or through
the full EQ range it articulated it all very nicely indeed alex.👍
What I really need is a 32 x 10, a Powersoft K20, a 40 amp circuit, a loudspeaker management system, and a decent bass pedal and a good 5 string. Oh and a flatbed truck to carry this enormous rig around.
That's a great-sounding cab!!!
Excellent Mate
I've been fascinated by the "hybrid resonator" concept and trying to guess what it is. Whether there is a high tuned ported box for the speaker inside a low tuned ported box, which gives the speakers a smaller enclosure when playing higher bass frequencies, then at the tuning of the highs, the other port might pass them because in the remaining box volume it's tuned higher, then when getting into deeper lows, the small high tuned box "leaks" out the port and feeds the entire box volume with the outer port for a lower tuning.
The other thing I'm wondering about is a ported "cavern" within the box that resonates at higher frequencies and effectively closes itself off reducing box volume for upper bass, then "leaks" at lower frequencies, turning the entire enclosure into a low tuned ported box. At the same time, the outer port's tuning has increased, due to the cavern being "closed off" by being above its tuning frequency and the port not letting air in, and the available box volume shrinking.
I know you have intellectual property to protect but is it the double ported box above, or the ported box with an empty ported chamber inside? Though one thing I've noticed is that it doesn't seem to require a lot of port area. The big 8 x 10 cab has a couple of ~6" ports on the bottom, yet for a conventional ported, a big slot port down either side or both would be more appropriate.
I think if you just used a ported box that's tuned low and slightly undersized, it would still be a bit big for boosting mid-bass frequencies, but not big enough to amplify the low bass as much.
It looks like it would be quite a good design for a compact car audio subwoofer box.
I would like to hear a prototype of a 3x12" speakers for guitar and baritone, with two Celestion Alnico Blue with a single G12 anniversary... 🙃🤘
3rd Power Amps had those triangular 3x12"'s. Remember those? The idea was that the 3 speakers work together as one giant speaker or something.
@@jotunbjorn I didn't knew this... But after some research I found also some old 3x12 cabinets from Marshall and Fender... The idea isn't new, but it was used for bass. I think there are some really cool options to use different speakers with special characters to create unique sounds.
I made my own 3x12 last year comprised of a vintage 30 and 2 G12H 30w anniversaries. The idea was to run the 2 h30s in series and the v30 parallel to them. The load comes out to 120w at 8ohms. All of the speakers are rated at roughly the same sensitivity and are splitting the power proportionally so in theory they should be performing similarly with the slight caveat that the anniversaries are doubled so they should be more present and I can say... it is a damn good sounding cabinet.
@@joshshultz1250 I can imagine that this combination sounds great. I like the Anniversary speaker and it's a good idea to combine it with the V30. I'm not sure what cabinet I should use. Maybe I should make it by myself. I have to watch some videos about self made cabinets... I like the idea to have a 3 x12 cabinet.
Might you have a vague description of the tonal differences between this 310 and one of your 212 cabs? Thanks!!!
See the next video!
@@BarefacedAudiowill do thanks! 😊
Remember that doubling the power only increases perceived volume by 3dB (a decibel being the smallest incremental change in sound a human ear can detect), but that increased efficiency greatly increases potential volume from the same size amp, and that the purpose of more power is 'not' more volume, but more headroom: the ability to reproduce a signal 'without' 'adding distortion of its own before it starts to breakup.
There are some good points in this comment but also some errors too - rather than enter into a philosophical debate of how power can only increase headroom through increased maximum SPL, I suggest you watch some of the numerous videos on our channel which aim to educate musicians on how sound works and how audio equipment works.
For the purpose of clarification, we'll say that the 3dB (which literally means 10^0.3) is interpreted by the brain as "roughly 20-25% louder" that is if you imagined a volume control on a TV, and you turned it from say "50" to "61" you'd get about a 3 decibel increase, or if you turned it down to "41" a 3 dB drop, though it depends on the individual curve chosen by the TV makers. Obviously the perceived headroom is also going to be identical, but if you were close to the limits on your old amp, you will get a much cleaner sound at the same level on the new amp. Because our conscious brain hears in roughly a cube root curve, it won't take that much extra to max out the new amp.
In terms of the adage "will clipping damage my speakers?", power handling of a speaker is band dependent, ESPECIALLY for a multi way speaker. A woofer by itself will handle roughly similar power at all frequencies - impedance, sensitivity changes and coil cooling motion aside. A 500 watt woofer crossed to a 50 watt midrange and 20 watt tweeter will have a lot less power handling at the top end (though the drivers will make up for it in sensitivity increase). A clipped signal will usually put more emphasis in the mids and highs, though similar to a really twangy bass tone, which might take the mid and tweeter beyond power limits, compared to a more powerful clean amp, that will send power increase evenly between the drivers. If you want a Lemmy motorhead sound loud, you might want to use beefy mid-drivers and turn down the tweeter. A woofer only cab it doesn't matter much about clipping a smaller amp, only if it exceeds short or long term power ratings.
@@BarefacedAudio Errors? No. Generalizations, yes! All things considered, an efficient cabinet 'was' a cheaper way to get more volume; although new amplifier designs have leveled that playing field as watts are grown cheap these days. Even so, those who stand to profit are determined to ensure that dB's 'stay' expensive.
@@philosophicallyspeaking6463 You're insane if you actually believe the human brain can only perceive volume differences of 3db or greater... or you've never sat at a mixing console.
@@joshshultz1250 Hi Josh! A 'single' dB is literally defined as being the smallest incremental change the human ear can perceive. Where in my comment did you get that triple that amount, or 3 dB, is the threshold? The name decibel is given to and tied specifically to that perceptual threshold.
If you don't know that, you also won't know that '3 dB' is the quantitative increase in perceived volume won by doubling the power of a amplifier. If it is just a case that you misread you need to recant, but if you are in anyway connected with the industry, you might want to delete your comment as it shows you in a poor professional light.
Hi Alex,
Can the 3x10 hold an hiwatt 200 watt tube amp?
Or does a 6x10 must be used fir that kind of amps?
By hold do you mean “handle the power from” or “have an amp that size/weight placed on top”?
Hi Alex,
I mean "handel the power"
The 6x10 looks great bit is too expensive for me...
Does the 3x10 would do the work and sound "the same"?
@@luka3679 The Three10 will have no problem handling the power from the Hiwatt and will sound very similar to the Six10, just a bit less LOUD. There's also the Four10 if you need a wider cab for the head to sit on.
I use a Noble preamp and I like it so much I just use it through the fx return in my bass amp and skip the pre. I think the 310 would be the ideal cab for me, any chance you fancy making a powered version. Or can you recommend a power amp that would work well with it? (preferably a physically small power amp)
We haven't developed a power module for our bass cabs just yet - our 200w active guitar cab module is complete which will hopefully lead to some headway in its development. You might want to go for something like this if you have the budget:
- www.bassdirect.co.uk/product/grbass-pure-amp/
- www.crownaudio.com/en/products/xls-1502
The EHX 44 Magnum is designed for guitarists, so don't be tempted by it's size (and price!) but if you're willing to spend upwards of a few hundred quid/bucks then one of the Seymour Duncan Powerstage pedals should be sufficient for bass (and is quite compact)
1 is always the magic number. Avoid unneeded phasing issues.
Until 1 cannot provide enough output with the tone you want!
"Avoid unneeded phasing issues."
-said no one who's ever owned a 412, listened to music, or played guitar
Get off the internet, and go talk to people, face to face...before you lose the ability to do it.
Yes,true,, but the phasing issues can be solved with acoustic engineering knowledge.
I think the most important thing about phase is that sometimes it really matters and sometimes it really doesn’t matter! And sometimes differences in phase are actually beneficial (like the sound of both pickups at full on a Jazz bass).
JL: audio been doing 3 ohm coils for three decades.
I use a KBA50 Peavey.. 10" and 1" bi-amped with 3 channels a loop and DI.. it has better dispersion because the tweeter.. which looks like a better tweeter than that cabinet has... it's a closed package and quite often.. I run a Subwoofer.. getting PA support is critical. using anything beyond one cabinet is a waste
100db efficiency and 750w power handling is just off. like no way. proof please. at some point around 128 watts it's just wasted power and yeah.. there's no way those will do both linear.
I usually run compression on one channel and dirt on the other.. which when bypassed I have a clean-compressed parallel and two open channels... so.. I run stereo out from my bass... one channel P bass the other MM..
best part. I paid $20 for the whole thing. adding the subwoofer was just for giggles but I use a 10" 400w powered with a line thru off my DI out. just to add a bump in the bottom end of my tone.
I have no use for that. I don't see any value in that. how would I connect it to say.. a Traynor dynabass 800h
I’m a little bit confused - why is 100dB sensitivity and 750W power handling so strange? Why is 128W the max amount of power a speaker can use without wasting it? If you can get the tone and SPL you want with a 1x10” keyboard combo then that’s great but I know I can’t (whether adding a sub or not) and nor can most of our customers!
@BarefacedAudio 20db roughly 128 w. On top of 100db efficiency that's 120db. Reasonable to assume that's clear and workable.. gaining another 10db just seems both unlikely and not worth it. Having that headroom would be nice. I heard aperiodic which I'm familiar with. There's always a trade off. I'd like to see the 130db response of that cabinet
I mean that would only be about 40 watts a driver - and these are not a typical hi-fi woofer with a small coil.
@@TimpBizkit it's called a DI.. 3 weird 10" are either too many or not enough failing both while offering absolutely nothing.
I'll take a 40 watt single with a good tweeter.. in a combo with a DI any day.
QTC final being more important than anything else.. again if it can't move air it's gonna need a DI and be portable.
3- 10" worked really well in sealed enclosures as subwoofers..
but leaky bass cabs.. which is what an aperiodic is.. just embarrassing
@TimpBizkit my response is ultimately no. 3 suck. If you want to have big wasteful power amps go ahead. Efficiency wins the competition. Neomag with a LOW QTC I would prefer if it doesn't want more than 40 watts. I could run 400w head with 10 of them
No it isn't.
But is it when it comes to speakers? 🤔