I would love to see a really in depth video on EQ, specifically mids. How to fit into a mix with 2 distorted guitars, how to eq to the room, how to hear yourself better on stage. All major pain points for me as a weekend warrior playing in a 90s rock cover band.
When you want to hear yourself lear and well, plug an IEM transmitter to Effects Send or LineOut and IEM receiver to headphones. Or stand right in front of a speaker :)
I try to make sure to keep the bass levels tamed on the guitar amps, especially the channels for the guitars if they are through a mic for front of house. Same deal with the vocals. I cut damn near all of the bass out of those channels. It just muddies up the sound and steps on the toes of the bass guitar and bass drum. This is definitely step one in the battle. You could call it conflicting frequencies or battling over the bass frequencies. Also I feel 200 watts for the bass amp is the minimal threshold of what works with Rock drummers and dual guitars. Keep in mind that sometimes depending on where your standing the bass may not seem loud enough but it actually is. Bass carries well so fans that are in the crowd can probably hear you better than you can hear yourself at times.
A note on ohms and solid state amps: most operate at their full wattage at 4 ohms. So, if you have a 500 watt amp and you only ever play it through an 8 ohm cab, for all intents and purposes, you only have a 250(ish) watt amp.
Also in my experience wattage doesnt really equal volume, but speaker surface area more likely does. I mean a 350W amp with a 215 cab will sound waaay louder, than a 700W amp through a 115 (both at full power 4 Ohms).
This leads me to wonder how easy or likely it will be to blow those cabs, as they're only rated 300 watts each, and the head pushes 800 at 4 ohms, so in theory you're overloading them by a combined 200 watts if you were to crank it fully
I used to work on cruise ships and I was pretty concerned when I was presented with a 200w Fender Rumble for one contract, before that I'd always had rigs running at 500w minimum. Turned out that amp was more than loud enough to compete with the drummer, loved it so much I bought one for myself when I got home. At the moment I'm mostly playing silent stages and while I miss having the low end rumble from having a cab on stage, I don't miss carrying it out at the end of the gig. A sansamp and a 200w combo seems to get me through most gigs...but I'd still like a 100w+ tube head that I'd probably realistically only be able to use once or twice a year 😂 Awesome Content as always 😁👍
I’ve always used two 100 watt traynors and two 2/15 cabinets per head. I’ve always felt like I’d rather have more than I need. You can always turn down but not up.
Real life anecdote incoming - I saw Plini last week with Nigh Verses opening. Plini had an all digital setup with only cabs for stage volume, while Night Verses had the standard mic in front of amp setup. Plini was pristine, perfect, almost absurdly so, but also clinical and cold sounding at times. The band would go into a big dynamic change, but you would only hear it from the drummer, the rest of the band stayed flat matching his level. Meanwhile Night Verses sounded like a roaring stumbling animal, definitely a less clear mix, but so much more life to it.
My personal solution has been 800w solid state head, 2 1x12 cabs (one or both depending on the venue), and a pedalboard with a high quality preamp. It’s modular and I can bring exactly what the gig requires. A couple things I would add are the value of a high pass filter (especially when using an amp/cab) and the fletcher-Munson curve. Getting a handle on what frequencies my amp is capable of producing and how it’s being heard helped me a lot.
You missed one important thing for beginners. People who are new to amps REALLY need to be told not to use a guitar patch cable as a speaker cable. Other than that, great video.
Just wanted to say thanks for this video. I’ve played guitar for 30 years, just got my first bass and this video plus a bunch of your others have been incredibly helpful in jumpstarting my bass knowledge. Keep em coming, there’s an audience out here who needs your experience.
Great info as always, and great timing! Just flew back last night from a retreat where I just brought a DI and tuner - to my suprise they had an SVT-7 Pro and a 4x12. I haven't ever played on an amp that large and it totally changed the way I view large amps
Agreed! I have a GK Legacy 800 combo (2x12) with a GK NEO IV 2x12 extension cab and I love it! I can take the combo 2x12 and push the full 800 watts out of it without the extension or I can take the extension cab for a 4x12 and fuller sound. It's really great and it cuts and mixes well; this is coming from a 2x15 lover who never thought he would switch! GREAT topic and thanks so much for keeping this channel going! 🙂
I'm going to listen to the whole thing because I want to see if you remind the viewer to never use an instrument cable for a speaker. Great video...wish I'd seen it sooner (I'm one of those guitar players who is learning the bass and I had to have a tub rig....now I have a great sounding set up that I'll never take out because it's too heavy and too expensive).
I don't do tons of gigs anymore, but I will say that unless I'm playing a small gig, I lean on the PA. I only have one amp these days, a Fender Rumble 100, and I use it as a personal monitor if I'm allowed to use it at all. My preamp goes to the PA. It might not be the best way to do things, but it's super convenient and I'm happy with how it sounds.
Where was this video 8 years ago? Thank you so much! A little late, but thank you! 😅 I just wanted to let you know that your work is a great help to me and my bass playing. Even though I have become a bedroom musician for the most part - your tips are gold!
When I started playing in the early eighties, I used a '78 jazz bass into a Peavey TNT 130 watt combo with the 15" speaker and that thing was so loud I seldom needed to turn it past 10:00 o'clock...even in a rock band. Parametric EQ, great full sound, but the amp was very heavy. These days I use a Markbass CMD 121 combo (excellent amp, 300W into 8-ohms) and 121 extension cab (300W 8-ohm cab) for larger stages. This combo is much lighter, and with the extension cabinet allows the full 500W into 4 ohms, which is more than enough for any musical situation I find myself in. Interestingly, even when running both Markbass amp and cabinet, it is not perceptively louder than the old 130W Peavey was, but it does sound a little 'fuller' and is a hell of a lot lighter...
Well done and I agree 100% with what you said. One thing you didn`t cover was outdoor gigs. I found 300 tube or 1000+ solid state watts and 8/10 or 16/10 for speakers. The Ashdown looks cool.
Another great piece of content, as always. That's why I love my Origin Effects Bassrig '64 Black Panel stacked with the DCX Bass as my tone shaper and the Darkglass Alpha Omega Photon for my dirt. I would say that the OE Bassrig is a great strike-anywhere analog solution. I don't want to haul a huge cabinet but also don't want to rely on the backline amps the venue provides. As we grow older and play fewer shows, I find that the most compact rig is the best option. Although I always carry around my Fender Rumble 500 combo for my stage sound, which I can also plug into a PA, my main tone comes from my minimalist fly rig (Origin Bassrig).
I'm a multi-instrumentalist and go through seasons with different instruments. At my top, I had two dedicated bass amps- I had a 125W small amp that I was using for rehearsals, jazz, and musical theater gigs. Then I had a 300W head driving either a 250W 12" speaker cab or a 700W 2x12 cab. The head and cab(s) just didn't get used often. The club gigs typically had enough subwoofer to push my bass just fine, and it was just too much for my smaller gigs. The turning point was a year or two after I stopped playing club gigs and I picked up a 12" powered cab as a dedicated monitor wedge. Turns out the cab pushed more quality volume than my small amp but in a lighter package. Sold the small amp. Then I went for two solid years without using the head and cab(s)- all of my regular larger gigs had house amps- so I sold all of that. That was four years ago, and since then I've only had one show where I needed a medium sized stage amp (I borrowed a rig for that show, then it turned out the PA had more subwoofer power than we thought). Today, I'm almost always running a modeler with signal split to FOH and a stage amp.
Every time I convince myself I want a tube SVT head, I go out somewhere to pick one up. Changes my mind every time compared to my 600w Peavey solid state head. Good talk in breaking down on what might be needed in various situations.
Another thing to mention is if you like the sound of a preamp pedal going DI, sometimes it's cool to run the output of that preamp pedal into the effects return of an amp, bypassing the amp's preamp and letting you flavor and sculpt and saturate the signal with the pedal and get a less flavored interpretation coming out of the speakers. That's one of the main ways Tech 21 suggests hooking up a Sansamp BDDI, having the amp + speaker doing the heavy lifting of amplification, while the pedal is doing all the character business.
After exclusively playing a high watt class d with tube pre amp into a 2x12, I decided to try a combo with a new trio I've started playing with. I picked up a Rumble 500 used for a great price. It's super lightweight and sounds good to my ears. I recently found a used 2x10 Rumble extension cab. I love the small footprint of this thing and the vertical layout. It gets the speakers much closer to my ears than a traditional 4x10 setup. My most recent addition is a Zoom MS-60B+ multi effect. I've had so much fun with all the new sounds that are available to me. Great video!
Super informative video for a guitar player who plays bass as a secondary instrument. The fact that physics and the nature of human hearing dictates that bass frequencies demand higher wattages for us to hear them isn’t something that has ever occurred to me. One of many great points you made in the video. Killer video! Keep up the good work!
I always love to see bass advice videos that are actually good, and this one is. Plus, I feel validated with my current rig of a TC Electronic BH550 on top of a pair of GK Neo 112 cabs. Pretty powerful, pretty versatile and nothing weighs over 30 pounds for my bad back.
Great video. Having an AMP DI can save your ass. Last week my preamp/DI stopped during the first song onstage. I quickly grabbed the DI XRL and went straight into the AMP using the AMP DI, the problem was sorted. Turns out the preamp power was loose.
I play in a rock band with a very loud drummer. The only amp I ever used and ever needed is a 300 watt combo with two 10 inch speakers. It has always been loud enough, both at rehearsals and at gigs. The master volume goes up to 10, but I usually have it at 2 or 3. I have never put it past 4.
Agreed 👍 the drummer has never been the factor causing me to want more watts. For reference, I've played in a stoner doom, classic rock cover band, and a praise band. It's the guitars and keys.
been playing the bass since i was 16 in 1998, playing in my Mum's garage with my friend and our 10W amps. things are better now than they've ever been - choices, brands and more compact, lighter gear. I still have a very special place in my heart for a late 90s Trace Elliot combo but I accept that's nostalgia over function. this video was a lovely thing and i'm glad you let it be as long as it needed.
Thanks for the info... Not a bassist, but I use a Roland Keyboard amp loaded with a Weber 15" Bass speaker at home for writing and recording. It has a direct out and I mic it with a Lewitt LCT 440 PURE condenser mic. I put a Hudson Electronics preamp pedal in front of that...sounds cool. It's working well for this narrow application.
Thank you for making this video! I’m newer to bass and you addressed so many of the topics that I am beginning to explore. I play on a noiseless stage right now but would love to get a good amp and gig with it.
Hi Phil! I am a huge fan of all of your videos, I am the 16-year-old self that you wish had these videos. I am so grateful for this knowledge, it is not something that you get anywhere else. You should make a Patreon! of every single UA-camr, that I know and watch, you are easily the one that adds the most value to my life, And I would love to support By adding some value back into your life. Thanks so much.
Im planning on getting a V-4B as soon as I can afford one. I currently play through a Peavey solid state and while I don't mind it I find the tone lacking a bit.
I owned a V4B and found it to max out just under where I wanted to be (for a loud metal band at least). Anything past 12 o’clock on the volume knob just added more “squish”. My MTI era SVT has plenty of headroom and sounds better IMO. Orange AD200 also sounds great if you want more of that pushed tube amp overdrive.
My ideal solution is a 500-1000W 1x12 2ohms capable combo and up to three extension cabinets with 1x12 8 ohms speakers A coffee shop gig: combo (T1) Small club w/o PA: combo plus one cab (T1-2) Club w/o PA: combo plus two cabs (T2-3) Outdoor: combo plus three cabs (T3-4) Small and lightweight or huge and loud. Flexible
My solution has been an 800w hybrid amp into a 210. Any gig that needs more speakers usually has backline or has a powerful PA in my experience. As far as tones my solution to the clean/dirty debate is to have my saturated tone be what it is but drive a lot more compression on my clean sound. I've been finding that is helping my clean sound hand with my saturated sound.
Great video:-) I am in my 60's and I played in an early eighties band in the Australian Pub rock scene, when 12 gigs a week (doubles and triples) were the norm playing loud and original music . Very heady times..... learned a lot and still have my hearing coz I left the music scene mid 80's to bring up a family. (not a lot of $'s back then....) Long story short I have never stopped playing and learning. I have built my now 3rd home recording studio with a mix of analog and digital to give me far more flexibility and options to what we had available when we recorded in the 80's in EMI's 301 studio with neve and Pultec analog gear. I have learned as a guitar player to get equivalent if not better sounds using the right size amp and pedals and to use my ears to hear the other musicians on the stage. I have been playing bass for about 10 years now and whilst my bass chops are on the improve, what I have learned by playing bass is more about the fundamentals of music and performance, both on stage and in the studio. I am even learning to play drums but thats another story :-) Thanks for making this video as I am at the stage of thinking... should I join a band as a bass player seperate to my role as a guitar player,to further my learning? I am in the decision stage about a recording verses live amp and have hit a lot of road blocks, your video has helped me enormously. Sorry for the long post... But thanks again..... Ferg
This was a fun video to learn your perspective on! Here’s my setup that has been working with my country/rock band (acoustic, electric, pedal steel, full drums and bass) for rehearsals/small indoor stages - Ampeg pf50t + 115 cab. Anything more than that, I’m on a v4b with the 212 cab. Only a couple times on outdoor gigs (festival type stages) did I wish I had more stage volume. Like you mentioned we are always playing through a PA and often times on in ears, so the bass amp and cab is just for me and the stage.
I play in a pop punk band and use an Origin Effects Bass rig super vintage into a Seymour Duncan Powerstage 700 (700 watt power amp) into an Ampeg 6x10. This setup allows me to send FOH the preamp and 8x10 cab sim while the 700 watt head and 6x10 are for stage. That means no matter how low or loud I need to push the stage rig, the tone remains the same at FOH and in the IEMs. I find a 6x10 to be the Goldilocks IMO. Gives you the massive feel you want from a big rig, but not as monstrous or crazy to move as an 8x10 or going to scare your sound guy as much.
100 percent agreement on all tiers! Noiseless stage is sterile, need the push of air in my back and prefer that over the brilliant but sterile sound of in-ear 😂
My personal solution for the tube vs solid state argument is to have a tube preamp and a solid state (class D) power amp. You get the best of both worlds. You get tube warmth and saturation but you also get a very stable, reliable, powerful and noiseless amp in an easily portable package.
It's a good ballpark boundaries. I'm completely with you on noiseless stages - that's a common siderant for me too. Drummers too get this with engineers insisting on ported bass drums, going against the musicians own of _their_ sound. And guitarists getting scared off using their great Vox AC30s, Fender Twins, and 35-50W Marshall JTM half-stacks. If the inspiration and ability to perform is being severely compromised for practicality, something is fundamentally wrong with that live environment. As well as tube amps, you can almost halve those wattage boundaries if you're playing a big ol 4x10, 6,x10 or even 8x10 with very efficient speakers. I've heard 100w Ampeg V4b hold their own in a rock band in a small venue, with a 6x10. Especially if it's not a clean bass sound. Similarly, the MOSFET Ampeg Micro VR but with two of the 2x10 cabs, is about 250 watts. And that can meet the minimum requirements for a reasonably rock band in a small venue. I don't own a B15, would love too, but I've settled on the newer 20W Ampeg PF-20T for recording. It's a similar topology to the B-15, has a nice tube DI too and sounds damn good, especially for a £500 amp. If I use the tube PF-20T as preamp frontend for solid-state Micro-VR, and also take a DI out from the PF-20T for the PA, it gets some of the best of all worlds. The PF-20T gives you the tube preamp saturation for projection, the Micro-VR gives enough stage volume, especially with the low bass rolled off slightly so it isn't choked, and the mid up so it cut. And the tube DI to the PA brings the sub bass weight to reinforce. Kind of a DiY hybrid approach. So yeah, two amps is a good compromise: one smaller tube like PF-20T/50T/V-4b and one 500W+ solidstate (I like the 700W Ampeg Venture V7 for LOUD).
More please: Amp math - the ohms and the way to mix the heads/cabs and the 'output' from different ohm cabs that are compatible with the heads. I'm probably not explaining it well (or correctly) but I hear that if your cab is 4 or 8 or 16 ohms and your head will handle any of them, that output volumes differ - aka, if you buy a 500 watt head, and then have an X ohm cab, you might be limiting it to half that power, etc.
Loving this video. As always a friendly and informative run through. Keep them coming. My 2 cents in this area when it comes to my personal preference is a 4x10, old school 90s/00s Ashdown, Trace Elliot (being from Ireland, these were plentiful) or Ampeg, but that's when I don't have to carry them with me 🤣 Carrying my own gear I'm using a Markbass 1x12 combo with a 1x12 extension. Works very well, though I miss the sound of the previous, even if my back doesn't! I do play one gig that's in ears only and I use a cheap Nux MLD preamp on my board, a real swiss army knife for going straight into the desk but still sounding like an amp. Can also switch the IR on and off on xlr out and line out to an amp if using both. Keep meaning to try one of the higher end IR/preamp pedals but this works amazingly. Still prefer an amp, but this is the gig and I'm happy to play it when called upon. But it's what works for you and this is what works for me.
Great and informative video. Thank you, Philip. I have a PositiveGrid Spark40 for at home bass and guitar practice. If I'm feeling strong, I have a 350 watt Ampeg B2 with 1 x 15 and 2x10 cabs. It's plenty, and I usually don't push it over 15% volume. If I'm being lazy, I have a Helix LT I can plug direct into the PA. Recently, I acquired a pair of Phil Jones compact bass cabinets (4 5" speakers) and a Darkglass Microtubes 900 that I've really been impressed with. The gigs I've been playing recently suit the PJBs, and the load-in/ load-out are much simpler. Plenty of volume and punch. Recording is pretty much DI. I've been a tech/ roadie for a few local bands along the way. Loading and unloading drums and bass/ guitar amps and cabs takes its toll. An 8 x 10 cab, or even the Henry the 8 by 8 were ridiculous. I like the modular stuff. Be good to you!
Good info! I lugged one of those refrigerators up and down rickety old wooden stairs in dive clubs back in my college days. It was the only amp I had. I loved the ability to fill the room but man, I would have loved to have a more appropriate sized amp for those smaller venues.
I play mostly upright bass but also bass guitar.. I wound up in exactly the same place as Philllip. First, I had to find the right upright bass pickup and preamp for my bass, my style, and the strings I like, but thats another story. For an amp I wound up with a max 650w Class D Carvin head w tube pre, onboard compressor, parametric and graphic eq, and switchable from 2, 4, or 8 ohms. Cabs are 3 8 ohm 1-12s. A couple of Hartkes and a little Eden wizzer. The Eden cab is perfect for the low vol stuff, 2 8ohm Hartkes @ 4 ohms cover most gigs even w a hard hitting drummer. Big stage, super loud, add the 3rd speaker back to the top of the stack, switch over to the 2 ohm setting and angle it a bit towards the rest of the band. With this rig I can do anything from a mellow country or jazz gig to full blown psychobilly madness, and it also works for bass guitar. Even if I didnt play upright, a 300-600 w head and 2 12's would be what Id use because its so versatile.
I have a copy of a Marshall Super lead that I use as a head into an Ampeg 4x10 cab, it's perfect because it takes a while to distort and is VERY loud. It takes pedals really well too.
Another good tip is to center your bass tone around the low mid range as opposed to the low end range. It helps your bass sit better in a live mix; above the kick, below the guitars. Might also be worth nothing that UA-cam channels like this one exist for sound engineers too. And a common way to approach bass EQ discussed on those channels is to put a slight boost between 100-400 hz, a cut around 50-60 hz so it doesn’t interfere with the fundamental of the kick drum, a huge spike around 1-2khz for the attack, and then above that either leave it flat or put an egregious low pass filter on it anywhere between 2-10k. It is highly debatable whether these things are necessary or beneficial for every bass, but just be aware that some sound engineers will probably do something like this to your bass. And you might not be able to tell from stage if your monitor mix is set to post-EQ and compression. The sound guy is probably going to compress your bass like crazy too, which isn’t always bad, it’s just a dynamic instrument.
I play with wired in-ears for almost 20 years now and I never looked back (analog wireless systems suck for bass, digital is fine). If there is a bassamp at the venue I'll use it as an extra. And in my home studio I have a small bass amp for practice, jamming and recording.
People laugh at my rig, but I ALWAYS HAVE A SUB. Even my practice setup with one way up on a stand and the other as the base. My KBA40 and a home audio subwoofer underneath. DI out front the KBA after mixing my 4 inputs. With fx channel loop.. i like to run parallel inputs off both pickups and compression on one with dirt on the other
I’m glad I haven’t had to do the silent stage thing (yet). I’ve had to do IEM’s in the past & I still prefer wedges (I’m sure I’d get used to singing with them if I had to). Anyways, great video and I hope you’re doing well my friend. T-minus 2 days til what I’m dubbing “Return of the Ring” 🙌
This video answers SO many of my questions. Thank you for the great content! If possible, I would love to hear your thoughts on routing. I really don’t know what to do with the send and receive ports on my amp.
This is helpful. I never understood why the wattage on bass amps was so much bigger than guitar amps, which are usually 25, 40, 50, or 100 watts. I never knew until now what I should buy. It's early in the video, so I am hoping you can discuss tube vs solid state.
Amp attenuators are a must for tube guitar amp IMHO/versatility/room control to get THE tone. With bass tube amp (135W)I like to use it with one cab and if it’s a bigger venue, I use another cab/stack and I feed it with a separate class D power amp. Yeah! A lot of hassle but I can use a tier 1 tube bass amp everywhere:)
Great video! One thing you didn’t touch on is that active vs passive bass makes a big difference too. Aside from volume, and some amps have both passive and active inputs, but especially for tone. My amp choices were different when I was playing active basses. I returned to passive Fenders, and especially Fender P basses (and most recently, Sandberg short scale passive P bass style), I am really digging my little Genz-Benz Shuttle 6.0 12T “combo”. I put that in quotes because it’s not really a combo - it has a separate detachable head but the cab has a tray the head fits in, so normally they just act like a single combo. The 12T puts 350w in that single 8 ohm 12” + tweeter, but you can also run it with an 8 ohm extension cabinet for 600w. I used to use a Bag-End 15” on the bottom, but these days, the straight 12T is my main rig. You didn’t mention tweeters, but I really like the tone and response of the 12” + tweeter, and I dial in a lot of those low mids to get a thumpier tone. Oh, two other things to talk about! The G-B has three EQ buttons in addition to the parametric EQ section. It has low and high boost buttons and a mid scoop button. These shape the tone even more, and I tend to use them to help shape the tone for the room. I generally leave my parametric set to a place that is really well matched to the P bass, giving a nice warm full tone in 95% of venues, then maybe engaging one or more of the EQ shape buttons to fit the room. The Shuttle also has another feature that a lot of amps have: gain and volume on the tube preamp section, and a master volume on the class D amp section. The manual even says that the gain adjusts the sensitivity of the 12AX7 tube in the preamp to your bass’s output, with the preamp volume controlling the post-tube, pre EQ signal. I also like the way the mute switch and mute light work, which is maybe a minor thing, but the mute switch especially is very easy to use and has a nice visceral click, and it feels solid, with a strong but not visually overwhelming red light when muted. Small, but nice touch! I like the headphone out and the tuner outs, separate from the effects loop. Another thing to maybe talk about is the direct out, which I agree is a critical feature. There you have pre or post EQ out, mic and line level, and of course a ground lift. All very handy when you need them. I’ve been super happy with this amp for almost all gigs, which for me usually means dive bars and small clubs playing garage-y rock, blues, reggae, stuff like that. From clean-ish finger funk tones to more aggressive rock bass either fingers or pick (very little slap pop these days). Oh, and flat wounds for all of it, which is another huge contributor to tone of course! I also always put the amp on a stand - I’m probably like a lot of bass players who don’t have ears in their knees! I find that putting the 12” on a stand lets me turn the volume down, find that sweet spot between filling the room and being my stage monitor (the clubs I play rarely put guitar or bass through the mains). It often cuts down on stage boom too, where the bass amp on the floor resonates with the stage. This amp works great for those type of gigs, and it even works really well for large stages where you DO have a PA to back you up. Then it’s just your stage monitor and it works pretty darn well. The one type of gig I wish I had more headroom, like your two 12” cabs run by the Ashdown, is in a larger rock venue that is, um, let’s say a little too frugal to have a PA that you can go through. Then, the amp might work well at the beginning of the night, but as volume fatigue sets in, and everyone is inching their volumes upward, I just really miss the extra say 150w of headroom. I can get a decent volume, but it gets harder to balance between volume and tone. Anyway, it’s a darn shame Genz-Benz got bought out, because these are great little amps. They have a larger 9.0 head that a friend has that gives you more wattage with a very similar tone shape, and an apparently a 210T bottom that I’ve never seen. One other observation. For weekend warriors like myself, it can be pretty difficult to have a wide enough variety of amps to check out in the local music store. They might have only a few manufacturers, and even then just a limited range of amps to try. And of course, a music store test drive might not help you grok what that amp is going to do for you in a live situation. It can be pretty frustrating, and so what do you do? Buy an amp on faith? Anyway, lots more to consider! Please do dive into ohms in more detail, and keep up the great videos. I love the vibe of this one, where you were almost sitting in the same room just chatting about bass! Bass players tend to be nerds about stuff like this, and my bass buds and I talk about this stuff all the time!
Genz Benz may be gone, but its direct heir, Genzler has built on the Genz Benz legacy. Their Magellan 350 Combo is next level for small, light weight, with surprisingly loud volume.
Great video! I think a video about ohms, watts, and such would be great for bass players! Some info out there, but nothing great. Also, have you thought about making a video on maintaining a tube amp? Or different kinds of tubes and tube sounds?
Fantastic video... I wish I'd seen this a month ago before I just bought a new amp. Fortunately, I think I would have still made the same decision (Gallien Krueger MB410 (4 x 10) 500 watts combo). Playing rock and funk covers in small/medium bars and some small outdoor spaces.
33:23 💯. Also allows for you to enjoy big sound, even at low volumes by yourself and with a small ensemble. It's fun to have good sound even in your room, even at low vol. You wont get that with a 50 W combo with a 10" speaker. Especially if you have a low B string. I have a 1200 W GK head, 2x12 single GK cab (2-12's in one, only 45lb). I get 400 W with that cab. To get all 1200W, I'd need more speakers, likely will never need that. It cranks. As far as versatility, I used my head alone the other day at a venue that had a PA, but they allowed my head, played DI out to the PA. They had a 4x10 cabinet on stage. I used that as a monitor, and I got to use my head's EQ and overdrive to shape my sound. I did not need my cab. Combos wont allow that necessarily. Versatility is key, as is just having your own setup for personal enjoyment.
Thanks for the energy vs sterile silent stage statement! I play mostly silent now. The occasional amps on stage gig is such a celebration for me (as long as the drummer has control over his cymbals and the guitarist isn't deaf). It affects the performance of everyone on stage. Sterile sound -> sterile performance vs energetic sound -> energetic performance. Which one will be more enjoyable by the audience?
I've been getting by in a rock band with a 200w micro head. I've played outdoors with an 8x10 array and you just turn it all the way up, it's plenty loud.
I'm really surprised how much different my experience has been than yours. I've run all direct all the time for like 13 years (to front of house). I have a 200 watt amp and I've only really used it for practice and never had had higher wattage amp.
2x 1x15 cabs, preamp with a poweramp and a 2x10 250/500. i can got big or small. The dual 15s allows me to add it to the 2x10 for a just a little more. The power amp drives the 2x15s just fine. Once there's a PA, it doesn't really matter what you have.
I mainly play in a silent stage setting. I use a Quad Cortex as my pre amp. Sounds great, easy to carry, and some good fx I need from time to time. Using different basses do generate different vibes too. That being said, I also own a small practice combo wich also doubles as a small rehersal amp, as well as a hybrid ashdown with a 4x10. As you said, it realy depends on the gig. As a pro player, you need an array of amps to cover all you need. :)
Loved the video! I totally agree with your versatile rig choice. Personally, I do the 410 112 combo for big or outdoor gigs, and bring either the 410 or 112 depending on the style of music if it’s a smaller room. I’d love to hear your thoughts on amp emulation via the Helix or Quad Cortex stuff! My mentor friend got one and has been using that as their bass rig only, and their sound still sounds huge! Thanks Philip!
Rock amp tier three is all I’ve ever needed. Everything larger usual have P.A. support and thus you don’t need anything more than their three. However the way technology is going, amps won’t even be part of the equation.
Hey, so happy I found your channel, great stuff! Can you comment more on the hybrid amp setup, aka the tube preamp and solid state power amp? How does it compare to all tube setup in your experience? I’m considering adding a revolt two notes bass pre. How would you structure the signal chain, perhaps using the 4 cable method? Where in the chain would effects pedals sit? Sorry for bombarding! Thanks! ❤
Fascinating and beautifully presented video with perfect timing for me. I've been getting going with a band using a Katana 110 which is fine for practice and copes with pub gigs using our small mobile PA. Looking for a modular head and cab system now that can stand alone and be heard without having to really crank it. So huge thanks, this gave me loads of food for thought and inspiration. One question: how much would you rely on the preamp in the amp if you have a preamp pedal that you like? Can you just set the amp to flat and let the pedal do the work or does the amp still colour the sound and mean you need to find one that sounds good to your ear?
As somebody who plays with a lot of grind in my tone, I think 12s sound better with saturation too. 15s sound good and warm but they don’t move a lot of air, and 10s are punchy but lack warmth. There’s a reason why guitarists love 12s.
I almost always try to have a PA when I’m playing bass just because I don’t like that overdriven tone. I run a Mark Bass little mark 1x12 combo, and the tone I like from it definitely doesn’t cut very well on its own. A good PA is always a great help.
Keep in mind that if you double the power you only gain about 3dB. Thats noticible but not in an order of magnitude. Far mor relevant is the efficiency of the cabinet. If I hook my tiny 80W Marbass up to my big 8x10" cab it keeps up with most drummers.
Hey again Philip, another great episode. I have been wondering (not exactly pertaining to this video, but somewhat related) how you dial in your sound. I just move knobs until I like the sound & keep the settings that way until the next situation, but then with a different room & especially if it's outside/inside/smaller/bigger room from the prior gig, I have to start over. How do you dial in your EQ, compressor & saturation/modulation (whether on amp or pedal)? Just wondering about your process, especially when you don't have a lot of time (I know people hate hearing musicians noodling & messing around onstage, trying to find their sound, but we can't all have a music tech that we like). Appreciate you buddy.
Hi Thanks for putting out awesome quality content. I have a question regarding the Ampeg Venture amps. I noticed you did a review on the Ampeg SGT DI pedal and it was capable of putting out a pretty convincing B15 tone. Can the Ampeg Venture Amp with B15 switch engaged also do a convincing B15 tone? Hope you can answer my question as I am about to purchase a new amp either the Ampeg PF20T or the Ampeg Venture V3. Thanks again
Can’t believe it wasn’t titled different bass gigs, different bass rigs 😩
Pinning this comment to give you credit. Changing the title to that as that is gold!
💯
Curious, what was the original title?
@@evenbasssame
I would love to see a really in depth video on EQ, specifically mids. How to fit into a mix with 2 distorted guitars, how to eq to the room, how to hear yourself better on stage. All major pain points for me as a weekend warrior playing in a 90s rock cover band.
Great topic
When you want to hear yourself lear and well, plug an IEM transmitter to Effects Send or LineOut and IEM receiver to headphones. Or stand right in front of a speaker :)
I try to make sure to keep the bass levels tamed on the guitar amps, especially the channels for the guitars if they are through a mic for front of house. Same deal with the vocals. I cut damn near all of the bass out of those channels. It just muddies up the sound and steps on the toes of the bass guitar and bass drum. This is definitely step one in the battle. You could call it conflicting frequencies or battling over the bass frequencies. Also I feel 200 watts for the bass amp is the minimal threshold of what works with Rock drummers and dual guitars. Keep in mind that sometimes depending on where your standing the bass may not seem loud enough but it actually is. Bass carries well so fans that are in the crowd can probably hear you better than you can hear yourself at times.
I'm 61, started playing bass when I was 12 and I learned a lot of things from this.Thank you man🙏great stuff.
50 year anniversary coming up! rock on
A note on ohms and solid state amps: most operate at their full wattage at 4 ohms. So, if you have a 500 watt amp and you only ever play it through an 8 ohm cab, for all intents and purposes, you only have a 250(ish) watt amp.
This is true. I cut that part out as the video was getting really long but I may need to do an ohms video soon as this is really important info.
I guess that’s matter already has thousands of videos. And doubling the impedance does not halves the wattage. But you already know that.
@@philipconradmusic Nah, you did good. Hundreds of videos talk about already. It common sense now. You're video gave a new perspective.
Also in my experience wattage doesnt really equal volume, but speaker surface area more likely does. I mean a 350W amp with a 215 cab will sound waaay louder, than a 700W amp through a 115 (both at full power 4 Ohms).
This leads me to wonder how easy or likely it will be to blow those cabs, as they're only rated 300 watts each, and the head pushes 800 at 4 ohms, so in theory you're overloading them by a combined 200 watts if you were to crank it fully
I used to work on cruise ships and I was pretty concerned when I was presented with a 200w Fender Rumble for one contract, before that I'd always had rigs running at 500w minimum. Turned out that amp was more than loud enough to compete with the drummer, loved it so much I bought one for myself when I got home.
At the moment I'm mostly playing silent stages and while I miss having the low end rumble from having a cab on stage, I don't miss carrying it out at the end of the gig. A sansamp and a 200w combo seems to get me through most gigs...but I'd still like a 100w+ tube head that I'd probably realistically only be able to use once or twice a year 😂
Awesome Content as always 😁👍
I’ve always used two 100 watt traynors and two 2/15 cabinets per head. I’ve always felt like I’d rather have more than I need. You can always turn down but not up.
I found your channel today, I love the chilled way you present the in depth information. Thanks for doing this, and I have subscribed :)
Welcome! So glad you are here. Thanks for the subscribe
Real life anecdote incoming - I saw Plini last week with Nigh Verses opening. Plini had an all digital setup with only cabs for stage volume, while Night Verses had the standard mic in front of amp setup. Plini was pristine, perfect, almost absurdly so, but also clinical and cold sounding at times. The band would go into a big dynamic change, but you would only hear it from the drummer, the rest of the band stayed flat matching his level. Meanwhile Night Verses sounded like a roaring stumbling animal, definitely a less clear mix, but so much more life to it.
A roaring, stumbling animal. Fantastic metaphor!!!
My personal solution has been 800w solid state head, 2 1x12 cabs (one or both depending on the venue), and a pedalboard with a high quality preamp. It’s modular and I can bring exactly what the gig requires.
A couple things I would add are the value of a high pass filter (especially when using an amp/cab) and the fletcher-Munson curve. Getting a handle on what frequencies my amp is capable of producing and how it’s being heard helped me a lot.
I run a similar rig, just with a 500W solid state (I don't play terribly large venues). Works like a CHARM!
Great points. LPF and HPF are really useful tools.
You missed one important thing for beginners. People who are new to amps REALLY need to be told not to use a guitar patch cable as a speaker cable. Other than that, great video.
Just wanted to say thanks for this video. I’ve played guitar for 30 years, just got my first bass and this video plus a bunch of your others have been incredibly helpful in jumpstarting my bass knowledge. Keep em coming, there’s an audience out here who needs your experience.
Great info as always, and great timing! Just flew back last night from a retreat where I just brought a DI and tuner - to my suprise they had an SVT-7 Pro and a 4x12. I haven't ever played on an amp that large and it totally changed the way I view large amps
Agreed! I have a GK Legacy 800 combo (2x12) with a GK NEO IV 2x12 extension cab and I love it! I can take the combo 2x12 and push the full 800 watts out of it without the extension or I can take the extension cab for a 4x12 and fuller sound. It's really great and it cuts and mixes well; this is coming from a 2x15 lover who never thought he would switch! GREAT topic and thanks so much for keeping this channel going! 🙂
I want this channel to succeed so bad. Such amazing content. Always love when a new vid drops 🤟🏼
Thanks so much for your support!
New to playing bass, this has been a gold mine of information!
I'm going to listen to the whole thing because I want to see if you remind the viewer to never use an instrument cable for a speaker. Great video...wish I'd seen it sooner (I'm one of those guitar players who is learning the bass and I had to have a tub rig....now I have a great sounding set up that I'll never take out because it's too heavy and too expensive).
I don't do tons of gigs anymore, but I will say that unless I'm playing a small gig, I lean on the PA. I only have one amp these days, a Fender Rumble 100, and I use it as a personal monitor if I'm allowed to use it at all. My preamp goes to the PA. It might not be the best way to do things, but it's super convenient and I'm happy with how it sounds.
Where was this video 8 years ago? Thank you so much! A little late, but thank you! 😅 I just wanted to let you know that your work is a great help to me and my bass playing. Even though I have become a bedroom musician for the most part - your tips are gold!
When I started playing in the early eighties, I used a '78 jazz bass into a Peavey TNT 130 watt combo with the 15" speaker and that thing was so loud I seldom needed to turn it past 10:00 o'clock...even in a rock band. Parametric EQ, great full sound, but the amp was very heavy. These days I use a Markbass CMD 121 combo (excellent amp, 300W into 8-ohms) and 121 extension cab (300W 8-ohm cab) for larger stages. This combo is much lighter, and with the extension cabinet allows the full 500W into 4 ohms, which is more than enough for any musical situation I find myself in. Interestingly, even when running both Markbass amp and cabinet, it is not perceptively louder than the old 130W Peavey was, but it does sound a little 'fuller' and is a hell of a lot lighter...
Well done and I agree 100% with what you said. One thing you didn`t cover was outdoor gigs. I found 300 tube or 1000+ solid state watts and 8/10 or 16/10 for speakers. The Ashdown looks cool.
Really good video Philip! I appreciate the vibe and approach you bring to the bass guitar space. Also love the cameos from pets!
Great video for our younger or less knowledgeable bass collegues!
They’ll definitely learn a lot here. Well done, Philip.
🖖
Another great piece of content, as always. That's why I love my Origin Effects Bassrig '64 Black Panel stacked with the DCX Bass as my tone shaper and the Darkglass Alpha Omega Photon for my dirt. I would say that the OE Bassrig is a great strike-anywhere analog solution. I don't want to haul a huge cabinet but also don't want to rely on the backline amps the venue provides. As we grow older and play fewer shows, I find that the most compact rig is the best option. Although I always carry around my Fender Rumble 500 combo for my stage sound, which I can also plug into a PA, my main tone comes from my minimalist fly rig (Origin Bassrig).
I'm a multi-instrumentalist and go through seasons with different instruments. At my top, I had two dedicated bass amps- I had a 125W small amp that I was using for rehearsals, jazz, and musical theater gigs. Then I had a 300W head driving either a 250W 12" speaker cab or a 700W 2x12 cab.
The head and cab(s) just didn't get used often. The club gigs typically had enough subwoofer to push my bass just fine, and it was just too much for my smaller gigs.
The turning point was a year or two after I stopped playing club gigs and I picked up a 12" powered cab as a dedicated monitor wedge. Turns out the cab pushed more quality volume than my small amp but in a lighter package. Sold the small amp. Then I went for two solid years without using the head and cab(s)- all of my regular larger gigs had house amps- so I sold all of that. That was four years ago, and since then I've only had one show where I needed a medium sized stage amp (I borrowed a rig for that show, then it turned out the PA had more subwoofer power than we thought).
Today, I'm almost always running a modeler with signal split to FOH and a stage amp.
Thx
Every time I convince myself I want a tube SVT head, I go out somewhere to pick one up. Changes my mind every time compared to my 600w Peavey solid state head.
Good talk in breaking down on what might be needed in various situations.
Another thing to mention is if you like the sound of a preamp pedal going DI, sometimes it's cool to run the output of that preamp pedal into the effects return of an amp, bypassing the amp's preamp and letting you flavor and sculpt and saturate the signal with the pedal and get a less flavored interpretation coming out of the speakers. That's one of the main ways Tech 21 suggests hooking up a Sansamp BDDI, having the amp + speaker doing the heavy lifting of amplification, while the pedal is doing all the character business.
After exclusively playing a high watt class d with tube pre amp into a 2x12, I decided to try a combo with a new trio I've started playing with. I picked up a Rumble 500 used for a great price. It's super lightweight and sounds good to my ears. I recently found a used 2x10 Rumble extension cab. I love the small footprint of this thing and the vertical layout. It gets the speakers much closer to my ears than a traditional 4x10 setup. My most recent addition is a Zoom MS-60B+ multi effect. I've had so much fun with all the new sounds that are available to me.
Great video!
Super informative video for a guitar player who plays bass as a secondary instrument. The fact that physics and the nature of human hearing dictates that bass frequencies demand higher wattages for us to hear them isn’t something that has ever occurred to me. One of many great points you made in the video. Killer video! Keep up the good work!
Thanks so much for watching!
I always love to see bass advice videos that are actually good, and this one is. Plus, I feel validated with my current rig of a TC Electronic BH550 on top of a pair of GK Neo 112 cabs. Pretty powerful, pretty versatile and nothing weighs over 30 pounds for my bad back.
Great video. Having an AMP DI can save your ass. Last week my preamp/DI stopped during the first song onstage. I quickly grabbed the DI XRL and went straight into the AMP using the AMP DI, the problem was sorted. Turns out the preamp power was loose.
Very insightful, thank you Mr. Conrad.
I play in a rock band with a very loud drummer. The only amp I ever used and ever needed is a 300 watt combo with two 10 inch speakers. It has always been loud enough, both at rehearsals and at gigs.
The master volume goes up to 10, but I usually have it at 2 or 3. I have never put it past 4.
Agreed 👍 the drummer has never been the factor causing me to want more watts. For reference, I've played in a stoner doom, classic rock cover band, and a praise band. It's the guitars and keys.
been playing the bass since i was 16 in 1998, playing in my Mum's garage with my friend and our 10W amps. things are better now than they've ever been - choices, brands and more compact, lighter gear. I still have a very special place in my heart for a late 90s Trace Elliot combo but I accept that's nostalgia over function. this video was a lovely thing and i'm glad you let it be as long as it needed.
Second that Trace comment!
@@DeanChr thanks for making me feel a little less alone today
Great video, thank you! I would also love a video on amp resistance and volume!
Great stuff! This video is nuanced and detailed enough without derailing the big picture. Great job 👏
This is an amazing find! Thank you! Bass keys is how I do it.
Thanks for the info...
Not a bassist, but I use a Roland Keyboard amp loaded with a Weber 15" Bass speaker at home for writing and recording. It has a direct out and I mic it with a Lewitt LCT 440 PURE condenser mic. I put a Hudson Electronics preamp pedal in front of that...sounds cool. It's working well for this narrow application.
Nice!
Thank you for making this video! I’m newer to bass and you addressed so many of the topics that I am beginning to explore. I play on a noiseless stage right now but would love to get a good amp and gig with it.
Hi Phil! I am a huge fan of all of your videos, I am the 16-year-old self that you wish had these videos. I am so grateful for this knowledge, it is not something that you get anywhere else. You should make a Patreon! of every single UA-camr, that I know and watch, you are easily the one that adds the most value to my life, And I would love to support By adding some value back into your life. Thanks so much.
SVT at 300 watts can play arenas. V4B at 100 watts can play large shows as well.
It can play Arenas because it's being carried by the PA.
Im planning on getting a V-4B as soon as I can afford one. I currently play through a Peavey solid state and while I don't mind it I find the tone lacking a bit.
@@vincentmorelli1013Speaker swap
I owned a V4B and found it to max out just under where I wanted to be (for a loud metal band at least). Anything past 12 o’clock on the volume knob just added more “squish”. My MTI era SVT has plenty of headroom and sounds better IMO. Orange AD200 also sounds great if you want more of that pushed tube amp overdrive.
My ideal solution is a 500-1000W 1x12 2ohms capable combo and up to three extension cabinets with 1x12 8 ohms speakers
A coffee shop gig: combo (T1)
Small club w/o PA: combo plus one cab (T1-2)
Club w/o PA: combo plus two cabs (T2-3)
Outdoor: combo plus three cabs (T3-4)
Small and lightweight or huge and loud. Flexible
Love the long format!
Very helpful. That is the main thing I look for in a video, and this was a fantastic example of that.
My solution has been an 800w hybrid amp into a 210. Any gig that needs more speakers usually has backline or has a powerful PA in my experience.
As far as tones my solution to the clean/dirty debate is to have my saturated tone be what it is but drive a lot more compression on my clean sound. I've been finding that is helping my clean sound hand with my saturated sound.
Great video:-)
I am in my 60's and I played in an early eighties band in the Australian Pub rock scene, when 12 gigs a week (doubles and triples) were the norm playing loud and original music . Very heady times..... learned a lot and still have my hearing coz I left the music scene mid 80's to bring up a family. (not a lot of $'s back then....)
Long story short I have never stopped playing and learning. I have built my now 3rd home recording studio with a mix of analog and digital to give me far more flexibility and options to what we had available when we recorded in the 80's in EMI's 301 studio with neve and Pultec analog gear.
I have learned as a guitar player to get equivalent if not better sounds using the right size amp and pedals and to use my ears to hear the other musicians on the stage. I have been playing bass for about 10 years now and whilst my bass chops are on the improve, what I have learned by playing bass is more about the fundamentals of music and performance, both on stage and in the studio.
I am even learning to play drums but thats another story :-)
Thanks for making this video as I am at the stage of thinking... should I join a band as a bass player seperate to my role as a guitar player,to further my learning?
I am in the decision stage about a recording verses live amp and have hit a lot of road blocks, your video has helped me enormously.
Sorry for the long post...
But thanks again..... Ferg
This was a fun video to learn your perspective on! Here’s my setup that has been working with my country/rock band (acoustic, electric, pedal steel, full drums and bass) for rehearsals/small indoor stages - Ampeg pf50t + 115 cab. Anything more than that, I’m on a v4b with the 212 cab. Only a couple times on outdoor gigs (festival type stages) did I wish I had more stage volume. Like you mentioned we are always playing through a PA and often times on in ears, so the bass amp and cab is just for me and the stage.
I play in a pop punk band and use an Origin Effects Bass rig super vintage into a Seymour Duncan Powerstage 700 (700 watt power amp) into an Ampeg 6x10. This setup allows me to send FOH the preamp and 8x10 cab sim while the 700 watt head and 6x10 are for stage. That means no matter how low or loud I need to push the stage rig, the tone remains the same at FOH and in the IEMs. I find a 6x10 to be the Goldilocks IMO. Gives you the massive feel you want from a big rig, but not as monstrous or crazy to move as an 8x10 or going to scare your sound guy as much.
This is one of the best bass channels on UA-cam.
100 percent agreement on all tiers! Noiseless stage is sterile, need the push of air in my back and prefer that over the brilliant but sterile sound of in-ear 😂
I'm 72 played since I was 15. Phil you are right on the money.
My personal solution for the tube vs solid state argument is to have a tube preamp and a solid state (class D) power amp. You get the best of both worlds. You get tube warmth and saturation but you also get a very stable, reliable, powerful and noiseless amp in an easily portable package.
It's a good ballpark boundaries. I'm completely with you on noiseless stages - that's a common siderant for me too. Drummers too get this with engineers insisting on ported bass drums, going against the musicians own of _their_ sound. And guitarists getting scared off using their great Vox AC30s, Fender Twins, and 35-50W Marshall JTM half-stacks. If the inspiration and ability to perform is being severely compromised for practicality, something is fundamentally wrong with that live environment. As well as tube amps, you can almost halve those wattage boundaries if you're playing a big ol 4x10, 6,x10 or even 8x10 with very efficient speakers. I've heard 100w Ampeg V4b hold their own in a rock band in a small venue, with a 6x10. Especially if it's not a clean bass sound. Similarly, the MOSFET Ampeg Micro VR but with two of the 2x10 cabs, is about 250 watts. And that can meet the minimum requirements for a reasonably rock band in a small venue. I don't own a B15, would love too, but I've settled on the newer 20W Ampeg PF-20T for recording. It's a similar topology to the B-15, has a nice tube DI too and sounds damn good, especially for a £500 amp. If I use the tube PF-20T as preamp frontend for solid-state Micro-VR, and also take a DI out from the PF-20T for the PA, it gets some of the best of all worlds. The PF-20T gives you the tube preamp saturation for projection, the Micro-VR gives enough stage volume, especially with the low bass rolled off slightly so it isn't choked, and the mid up so it cut. And the tube DI to the PA brings the sub bass weight to reinforce. Kind of a DiY hybrid approach. So yeah, two amps is a good compromise: one smaller tube like PF-20T/50T/V-4b and one 500W+ solidstate (I like the 700W Ampeg Venture V7 for LOUD).
Great insights. Thanks for sharing!
Amazing content, lucky to stumble upon your channel.
More please: Amp math - the ohms and the way to mix the heads/cabs and the 'output' from different ohm cabs that are compatible with the heads. I'm probably not explaining it well (or correctly) but I hear that if your cab is 4 or 8 or 16 ohms and your head will handle any of them, that output volumes differ - aka, if you buy a 500 watt head, and then have an X ohm cab, you might be limiting it to half that power, etc.
Loving this video. As always a friendly and informative run through. Keep them coming.
My 2 cents in this area when it comes to my personal preference is a 4x10, old school 90s/00s Ashdown, Trace Elliot (being from Ireland, these were plentiful) or Ampeg, but that's when I don't have to carry them with me 🤣
Carrying my own gear I'm using a Markbass 1x12 combo with a 1x12 extension. Works very well, though I miss the sound of the previous, even if my back doesn't!
I do play one gig that's in ears only and I use a cheap Nux MLD preamp on my board, a real swiss army knife for going straight into the desk but still sounding like an amp. Can also switch the IR on and off on xlr out and line out to an amp if using both. Keep meaning to try one of the higher end IR/preamp pedals but this works amazingly. Still prefer an amp, but this is the gig and I'm happy to play it when called upon.
But it's what works for you and this is what works for me.
Great and informative video. Thank you, Philip.
I have a PositiveGrid Spark40 for at home bass and guitar practice.
If I'm feeling strong, I have a 350 watt Ampeg B2 with 1 x 15 and 2x10 cabs. It's plenty, and I usually don't push it over 15% volume.
If I'm being lazy, I have a Helix LT I can plug direct into the PA. Recently, I acquired a pair of Phil Jones compact bass cabinets (4 5" speakers) and a Darkglass Microtubes 900 that I've really been impressed with.
The gigs I've been playing recently suit the PJBs, and the load-in/ load-out are much simpler. Plenty of volume and punch.
Recording is pretty much DI.
I've been a tech/ roadie for a few local bands along the way. Loading and unloading drums and bass/ guitar amps and cabs takes its toll. An 8 x 10 cab, or even the Henry the 8 by 8 were ridiculous. I like the modular stuff.
Be good to you!
Good info! I lugged one of those refrigerators up and down rickety old wooden stairs in dive clubs back in my college days. It was the only amp I had. I loved the ability to fill the room but man, I would have loved to have a more appropriate sized amp for those smaller venues.
I play mostly upright bass but also bass guitar.. I wound up in exactly the same place as Philllip. First, I had to find the right upright bass pickup and preamp for my bass, my style, and the strings I like, but thats another story.
For an amp I wound up with a max 650w Class D Carvin head w tube pre, onboard compressor, parametric and graphic eq, and switchable from 2, 4, or 8 ohms. Cabs are 3 8 ohm 1-12s. A couple of Hartkes and a little Eden wizzer. The Eden cab is perfect for the low vol stuff, 2 8ohm Hartkes @ 4 ohms cover most gigs even w a hard hitting drummer. Big stage, super loud, add the 3rd speaker back to the top of the stack, switch over to the 2 ohm setting and angle it a bit towards the rest of the band. With this rig I can do anything from a mellow country or jazz gig to full blown psychobilly madness, and it also works for bass guitar. Even if I didnt play upright, a 300-600 w head and 2 12's would be what Id use because its so versatile.
I have a copy of a Marshall Super lead that I use as a head into an Ampeg 4x10 cab, it's perfect because it takes a while to distort and is VERY loud. It takes pedals really well too.
Home player here: Love my Fender Rumble 100. On 3, I get texts from two floors up to lower it haha
Great video, Philip Cognac.
Another good tip is to center your bass tone around the low mid range as opposed to the low end range. It helps your bass sit better in a live mix; above the kick, below the guitars.
Might also be worth nothing that UA-cam channels like this one exist for sound engineers too. And a common way to approach bass EQ discussed on those channels is to put a slight boost between 100-400 hz, a cut around 50-60 hz so it doesn’t interfere with the fundamental of the kick drum, a huge spike around 1-2khz for the attack, and then above that either leave it flat or put an egregious low pass filter on it anywhere between 2-10k. It is highly debatable whether these things are necessary or beneficial for every bass, but just be aware that some sound engineers will probably do something like this to your bass. And you might not be able to tell from stage if your monitor mix is set to post-EQ and compression. The sound guy is probably going to compress your bass like crazy too, which isn’t always bad, it’s just a dynamic instrument.
I play with wired in-ears for almost 20 years now and I never looked back (analog wireless systems suck for bass, digital is fine). If there is a bassamp at the venue I'll use it as an extra.
And in my home studio I have a small bass amp for practice, jamming and recording.
Thanks for the great informative video. Im a drummer trying to learn bass and your channel has been priceless.
I am so glad to have you here
People laugh at my rig, but I ALWAYS HAVE A SUB. Even my practice setup with one way up on a stand and the other as the base. My KBA40 and a home audio subwoofer underneath. DI out front the KBA after mixing my 4 inputs. With fx channel loop.. i like to run parallel inputs off both pickups and compression on one with dirt on the other
I’m glad I haven’t had to do the silent stage thing (yet). I’ve had to do IEM’s in the past & I still prefer wedges (I’m sure I’d get used to singing with them if I had to). Anyways, great video and I hope you’re doing well my friend. T-minus 2 days til what I’m dubbing “Return of the Ring” 🙌
This video answers SO many of my questions. Thank you for the great content!
If possible, I would love to hear your thoughts on routing. I really don’t know what to do with the send and receive ports on my amp.
This is helpful. I never understood why the wattage on bass amps was so much bigger than guitar amps, which are usually 25, 40, 50, or 100 watts. I never knew until now what I should buy. It's early in the video, so I am hoping you can discuss tube vs solid state.
Bass low frequency moves far more air than high frequency or mids even
for the same perceived volume.
That takes more powah!😂 Its Science.
Nice "rule of thumb" for amp power. I find this useful.
I read that as "rule of thump". Makes sense both ways.
Amp attenuators are a must for tube guitar amp IMHO/versatility/room control to get THE tone. With bass tube amp (135W)I like to use it with one cab and if it’s a bigger venue, I use another cab/stack and I feed it with a separate class D power amp. Yeah! A lot of hassle but I can use a tier 1 tube bass amp everywhere:)
Love your channel and every topic you bring in! Big Thanks 🎉❤
Great video! One thing you didn’t touch on is that active vs passive bass makes a big difference too. Aside from volume, and some amps have both passive and active inputs, but especially for tone. My amp choices were different when I was playing active basses. I returned to passive Fenders, and especially Fender P basses (and most recently, Sandberg short scale passive P bass style), I am really digging my little Genz-Benz Shuttle 6.0 12T “combo”. I put that in quotes because it’s not really a combo - it has a separate detachable head but the cab has a tray the head fits in, so normally they just act like a single combo. The 12T puts 350w in that single 8 ohm 12” + tweeter, but you can also run it with an 8 ohm extension cabinet for 600w. I used to use a Bag-End 15” on the bottom, but these days, the straight 12T is my main rig. You didn’t mention tweeters, but I really like the tone and response of the 12” + tweeter, and I dial in a lot of those low mids to get a thumpier tone.
Oh, two other things to talk about! The G-B has three EQ buttons in addition to the parametric EQ section. It has low and high boost buttons and a mid scoop button. These shape the tone even more, and I tend to use them to help shape the tone for the room. I generally leave my parametric set to a place that is really well matched to the P bass, giving a nice warm full tone in 95% of venues, then maybe engaging one or more of the EQ shape buttons to fit the room. The Shuttle also has another feature that a lot of amps have: gain and volume on the tube preamp section, and a master volume on the class D amp section. The manual even says that the gain adjusts the sensitivity of the 12AX7 tube in the preamp to your bass’s output, with the preamp volume controlling the post-tube, pre EQ signal.
I also like the way the mute switch and mute light work, which is maybe a minor thing, but the mute switch especially is very easy to use and has a nice visceral click, and it feels solid, with a strong but not visually overwhelming red light when muted. Small, but nice touch! I like the headphone out and the tuner outs, separate from the effects loop. Another thing to maybe talk about is the direct out, which I agree is a critical feature. There you have pre or post EQ out, mic and line level, and of course a ground lift. All very handy when you need them.
I’ve been super happy with this amp for almost all gigs, which for me usually means dive bars and small clubs playing garage-y rock, blues, reggae, stuff like that. From clean-ish finger funk tones to more aggressive rock bass either fingers or pick (very little slap pop these days). Oh, and flat wounds for all of it, which is another huge contributor to tone of course! I also always put the amp on a stand - I’m probably like a lot of bass players who don’t have ears in their knees! I find that putting the 12” on a stand lets me turn the volume down, find that sweet spot between filling the room and being my stage monitor (the clubs I play rarely put guitar or bass through the mains). It often cuts down on stage boom too, where the bass amp on the floor resonates with the stage.
This amp works great for those type of gigs, and it even works really well for large stages where you DO have a PA to back you up. Then it’s just your stage monitor and it works pretty darn well. The one type of gig I wish I had more headroom, like your two 12” cabs run by the Ashdown, is in a larger rock venue that is, um, let’s say a little too frugal to have a PA that you can go through. Then, the amp might work well at the beginning of the night, but as volume fatigue sets in, and everyone is inching their volumes upward, I just really miss the extra say 150w of headroom. I can get a decent volume, but it gets harder to balance between volume and tone.
Anyway, it’s a darn shame Genz-Benz got bought out, because these are great little amps. They have a larger 9.0 head that a friend has that gives you more wattage with a very similar tone shape, and an apparently a 210T bottom that I’ve never seen.
One other observation. For weekend warriors like myself, it can be pretty difficult to have a wide enough variety of amps to check out in the local music store. They might have only a few manufacturers, and even then just a limited range of amps to try. And of course, a music store test drive might not help you grok what that amp is going to do for you in a live situation. It can be pretty frustrating, and so what do you do? Buy an amp on faith?
Anyway, lots more to consider! Please do dive into ohms in more detail, and keep up the great videos. I love the vibe of this one, where you were almost sitting in the same room just chatting about bass! Bass players tend to be nerds about stuff like this, and my bass buds and I talk about this stuff all the time!
Genz Benz may be gone, but its direct heir, Genzler has built on the Genz Benz legacy. Their Magellan 350 Combo is next level for small, light weight, with surprisingly loud volume.
Great video! I think a video about ohms, watts, and such would be great for bass players! Some info out there, but nothing great.
Also, have you thought about making a video on maintaining a tube amp? Or different kinds of tubes and tube sounds?
Yay! Right on time for my NYC MTA commute. Time enough to be able to download and watch in the subway. 🎉
Thanks Raf!
Fantastic video... I wish I'd seen this a month ago before I just bought a new amp. Fortunately, I think I would have still made the same decision (Gallien Krueger MB410 (4 x 10) 500 watts combo). Playing rock and funk covers in small/medium bars and some small outdoor spaces.
33:23 💯. Also allows for you to enjoy big sound, even at low volumes by yourself and with a small ensemble. It's fun to have good sound even in your room, even at low vol. You wont get that with a 50 W combo with a 10" speaker. Especially if you have a low B string. I have a 1200 W GK head, 2x12 single GK cab (2-12's in one, only 45lb). I get 400 W with that cab. To get all 1200W, I'd need more speakers, likely will never need that. It cranks. As far as versatility, I used my head alone the other day at a venue that had a PA, but they allowed my head, played DI out to the PA. They had a 4x10 cabinet on stage. I used that as a monitor, and I got to use my head's EQ and overdrive to shape my sound. I did not need my cab. Combos wont allow that necessarily. Versatility is key, as is just having your own setup for personal enjoyment.
Great stuff as usual, time for 42 minutes of greatness!
Thanks for watching as usual! So glad to have you a part of the channel.
Thanks for the energy vs sterile silent stage statement! I play mostly silent now. The occasional amps on stage gig is such a celebration for me (as long as the drummer has control over his cymbals and the guitarist isn't deaf). It affects the performance of everyone on stage. Sterile sound -> sterile performance vs energetic sound -> energetic performance. Which one will be more enjoyable by the audience?
I've been getting by in a rock band with a 200w micro head.
I've played outdoors with an 8x10 array and you just turn it all the way up, it's plenty loud.
thanks for this video, it's very informative
I use a 500W 210 combo and will add a 15” extension cab if I need more volume. It has a valve pre and solid state power amp.
I'm really surprised how much different my experience has been than yours. I've run all direct all the time for like 13 years (to front of house). I have a 200 watt amp and I've only really used it for practice and never had had higher wattage amp.
2x 1x15 cabs, preamp with a poweramp and a 2x10 250/500.
i can got big or small. The dual 15s allows me to add it to the 2x10 for a just a little more. The power amp drives the 2x15s just fine.
Once there's a PA, it doesn't really matter what you have.
I’m not a bass player, but this was really helpful and interesting for me (guitar player in a band).
I mainly play in a silent stage setting. I use a Quad Cortex as my pre amp. Sounds great, easy to carry, and some good fx I need from time to time. Using different basses do generate different vibes too.
That being said, I also own a small practice combo wich also doubles as a small rehersal amp, as well as a hybrid ashdown with a 4x10.
As you said, it realy depends on the gig.
As a pro player, you need an array of amps to cover all you need. :)
Loved the video! I totally agree with your versatile rig choice. Personally, I do the 410 112 combo for big or outdoor gigs, and bring either the 410 or 112 depending on the style of music if it’s a smaller room.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on amp emulation via the Helix or Quad Cortex stuff! My mentor friend got one and has been using that as their bass rig only, and their sound still sounds huge!
Thanks Philip!
Rock amp tier three is all I’ve ever needed. Everything larger usual have P.A. support and thus you don’t need anything more than their three. However the way technology is going, amps won’t even be part of the equation.
Hey, so happy I found your channel, great stuff! Can you comment more on the hybrid amp setup, aka the tube preamp and solid state power amp? How does it compare to all tube setup in your experience? I’m considering adding a revolt two notes bass pre. How would you structure the signal chain, perhaps using the 4 cable method? Where in the chain would effects pedals sit? Sorry for bombarding! Thanks! ❤
Fascinating and beautifully presented video with perfect timing for me. I've been getting going with a band using a Katana 110 which is fine for practice and copes with pub gigs using our small mobile PA. Looking for a modular head and cab system now that can stand alone and be heard without having to really crank it. So huge thanks, this gave me loads of food for thought and inspiration.
One question: how much would you rely on the preamp in the amp if you have a preamp pedal that you like? Can you just set the amp to flat and let the pedal do the work or does the amp still colour the sound and mean you need to find one that sounds good to your ear?
As somebody who plays with a lot of grind in my tone, I think 12s sound better with saturation too. 15s sound good and warm but they don’t move a lot of air, and 10s are punchy but lack warmth. There’s a reason why guitarists love 12s.
I thought I was done with the rig that I have now, thanks to your video I realized I need to change my amp, it is not what I need, thanks you
My practice amp at home is an old acoustic 136. 15" speaker, 100 watts yet it doesn't get that loud, its there to look cool
I WANT that video on Ohms, thank you!!
I almost always try to have a PA when I’m playing bass just because I don’t like that overdriven tone. I run a Mark Bass little mark 1x12 combo, and the tone I like from it definitely doesn’t cut very well on its own. A good PA is always a great help.
Casual bassist; jam band era. Access to Fender music store. New or used Growlers (?) should be enough?
Keep in mind that if you double the power you only gain about 3dB. Thats noticible but not in an order of magnitude. Far mor relevant is the efficiency of the cabinet. If I hook my tiny 80W Marbass up to my big 8x10" cab it keeps up with most drummers.
My dyslexia kicked in and I came here for "Maps".
Stayed for the "Amps". ; )
Hey again Philip, another great episode. I have been wondering (not exactly pertaining to this video, but somewhat related) how you dial in your sound. I just move knobs until I like the sound & keep the settings that way until the next situation, but then with a different room & especially if it's outside/inside/smaller/bigger room from the prior gig, I have to start over. How do you dial in your EQ, compressor & saturation/modulation (whether on amp or pedal)? Just wondering about your process, especially when you don't have a lot of time (I know people hate hearing musicians noodling & messing around onstage, trying to find their sound, but we can't all have a music tech that we like). Appreciate you buddy.
Hi
Thanks for putting out awesome quality content.
I have a question regarding the Ampeg Venture amps.
I noticed you did a review on the Ampeg SGT DI pedal and it was capable of putting out a pretty convincing B15 tone.
Can the Ampeg Venture Amp with B15 switch engaged also do a convincing B15 tone?
Hope you can answer my question as I am about to purchase a new amp either the Ampeg PF20T or the Ampeg Venture V3.
Thanks again
This is a cool and helpful video