Yep ill agree with the left hand drill bits, use a 4 or 5mm on a 6mm bolt thats snapped and the heat from drillimg i find brings out the thread thats left
I love the "ask me how I know" moments.... Ultimately proves the point that we learn best, by our mistakes. Thanks for passing on your knowledge Jim, absolutely priceless.
i own the yamaha fzs 1000 fazer, exactly the same exup valve my friends also own the same bike too so plenty of experience with the exup valve, being seized snapped bolts, even snapped taps when first started doing it. now none of us every have any issues, i recommend ceramic grease over copper grease even though the grease burns away the ceramic particles do not and they are also lubricating, i also ditch all the yamaha bolts for stainless on my friends (with ceramic grease and spring washers) or titanium on mine, even titanium m6 are still cheaper than yamaha want each, that way zero corrosion ever on the bolts. i strip maybe once a year perhaps even once every couple of years and never had a issue since in the 17 years have owned the bike. it takes 10 minutes to strip clean regrease and rebuild it now. just a tip with the ceramic grease instead of copper grease
I’ve seen so many videos doing this and fucking up Jim at last someone doing it properly it’s all about taking time and good tools oh and half a idea what you are doing 🏴👍
Very nice! Glad you mentioned to heat and quench the punch to harden the tip after being reground. That’s an important step a lot of people don’t realize.
If you snap the tap off in the hole, find a bolt the same thread with a good hex head and cut longways down the threaded end at 3 places to make 3 prongs. These will then slide down inside the flutes to grip the broken tap. Put a socket on the head and screw the old tap out. As to finding the centre of the broken stud, find a socket the same size as the ground off stud and run a drill down the centre of the socket. It will mark the centre of the stud.
He's really all world great... enjoy his content... be an assest to any TOP professional race team.. which IIRC he was incolved with at some point in time
Great video, nice to see taking your time and planning before diving in! On a note regards the the copper grease in high temp environments, there are better alternatives although more expensive. As part of my Job I work on Aero engines and we regularly use a product called Bostik Never Seez. It works superbly on threads where you have to remove a borescope plug or bolts that can't seize due to cost and time pressures! Perfect for exhausts bolts or shafts eh EXUP! 😉
I find the use of a spring loaded auto punch is better because you then have a spare hand to hold it right in the centre of the bolt that you are going to drill out.
Just watched part 4 of your gsxr750 engine re-build. It's like being back at college but shed loads better because you make it interesting and I'm sat here with a doobie and a beer. 👍😂
Luckily there's a small removable cover on the other side of the Exup valve so that the bearings can be knocked out. Shame they didn't do that on the early Exups 🤔
I stripped and sorted some issues on a ZX6R 1996. These little details like making the centre punch sharp are things that would have saved me hours on some jobs as a DIY first timer. Experience can't be bought and Haynes manuals don't tell you these things. If I get a bike again that needs work it's going to you....
Thank you, I got a couple of really useful things from this, putting the punch in a drill to grind it - that’s a great tip, will definitely use that, also reminded why every time I sharpen a tool it’s soft as sh1t, it’s because I need to heat it cherry red and then quench it - blimey I know that I was taught it at college 40 years ago and somehow I’ve either forgotten or just got stupid - so another useful tip thank you! Also loved the care you took to grind off those bolts to be able to really centre the punch mark, and reminder of importance of cleanliness around metal grinder shards! - thank you! Keep up the great work!
Yamaha fzr exup 1000 exup valve was even more trouble than the R1 i had quite a few exup1000 back in the day and later the r1 there was a extremely hi temp graphite lube that was capable of withstanding the hi temperatures it was nearly impossible to get hold of you could hold a blow torch on it and it and would turn black and grey but still do the job without burning away i tested it along with copper grease it was amazing stuff called exup juice .iv still got a small tub of it somewhere it was so hard to get no bike shops sold it graphite grease was the way to go but still needed regular service
As a machinist I have one tip to make it easier to hit the center when drilling out bolts: From the same place that has the Good (tm) drills get 90º center drills for spot drilling (no the ones for a live center in a lathe, they are completely wrong here). These drills have a very small center and usually no spirals at all which makes them very good at starting where intended without walking. (Technically center drills for carbide drills should have 140º but that assumes the precise positioning of a CNC for both spot and drill.)
@@steveclark.. The scenarios are completely different when the details are scrutinized! Here we have a stationary object and we want the tool to cut precisely where we put it, thus the very sharp but shallow point in a dedicated center drill. In the lathe the part is spinning, we don't want the drill to start where we point it but at the center of rotation thus it has a different geometry and a stubbier center. (Feel free to ask again if I'm unclear. Your question is relevant, not even many experienced machinists are aware of this!)
@@sharg0 I do get where you are going with this, much of it makes sense. I have a lathe and box of center drills, not sure about the geometry difference on the other bits that you are on about to be honest, like with taps, there's loads of different designs I know.
Nicely done sir! It's the kind of job we all have to confront at some point - so easy to fuck up. Great to see a masterclass, thanks so much. (Yes, I have snapped a tap off before!)
I always try to use a reverse drill bit, they're fantastic for removing broken bolts, you're drilling it out, and at the same time putting heat into and weakening the bolt, half the time they reverse out before having to do any more.👍
I've always wondered if hypnosis works. I think we should club together and get Jim a session where he forgets the f-bomb and has it replaced with another word. Cracking stuff there and great to see another R1 back on the road.
Wise words indeed about not snapping a tap off. Many years ago, I decided to put some bar end covers over the big fat heavy bar ends on my TL1000S. Of course, the knob cheese bolt snapped taking it apart due to threadlock. I then promptly snapped an easy out off inside the aforementioned bolt. So that was fun to sort out, luckily I have a mate who lives a stone's throw away with a fully equipped workshop, he drilled it out with a carbide bit, then turned up an insert which was threaded into the bars, then tapped out for the correct thread. Phew!
Having also butchered an exup valve unseizing it and having fun with all the snapped bolts, watching this vid took me back to doing that bastard job :) I opted for stainless bolts and a good smothering in copper grease, will be revisiting the job after about 10 years so i'll let you know how it goes, keep up the great work you're very knowledgeable and interesting to learn from
For broken (right hand) studs/threads I have found drilling with left hand drills to work extremely well. Many times the offending piece left in will unscrew with the action of the drill. Left hand taps can be used too to bring out the drilled piece left in,,,, hope this helps you and others left in the same position
I'm new to the channel but catching up on the videos and enjoying every one whilst trying to soak up some of your knowledge !! You've obviously drilled out studs many times before and you're trusting your methods, but here's a couple of little things from an old toolmaker that may help!! When using the centre punch it's far easier to nudge the mark it makes to a true centre position rather than try to correct when drilling. Use a centre drill to start the hole, it wont wander from the centre punch mark like a drill point can. Lastly use a left hand drill, the heat generated at the cutting edge and removing the bulk of the stud often unscrews the stud whilst drilling.
"Pay attention" 😂 Made me laugh cause today, I popped in the shops with my own shopping bag and the kid on the checkout asked me three times if I needed a bag! Paying attention is becoming a thing of the past.
Every video I watch of yours Jim just reiterates in my head that you know what you're talking about, and you do some talking 😂 (joke). I would trust you with any of my bikes, which trust me, means a lot. Well done fella, I'm always impressed with you solutions, and exanations of them.
@25:45 the oil light coming on... my 2000 R1 does that too. it's a weird warm up thing that it does. starts oil light is fine, warmed fine, ride for 5 minutes and comes on, then goes off again after a couple minutes and doesn't come on again unless the level goes too low. many stops and glances at the site window have confirmed this, and one occasion of dodge piston rings burning oil :)
Hi Jim. Would have been nice to see how the drilled bolts came out, not just the drilling of it. If possible let us know in the next video what the reason for the oil light coming on was. Other than that it was another instructive video which I kindly thank you for.
Keep on waffling fella. New follower here and love the knowledge from years of experience which you are sharing with us all, every day is a school day. I know there are some seasoned followers who'll say I know that but lots of us don't. Keep up the awesome work and the videos coming 👍🏻
Putting a smaller drill down when u have centre punched it will make it fool proof to be on centre .One turn in, half a turn out . And repeat too Tap out . That'll stop u marking and ripping the thread apart . Apart from that . Well done . Invest in colbolt drill bits 😉 maybe some high temperature greese
Excellent as always Jim 👍 as a machinist, methodical thinking is always the way to go when doing shit like this! I also being an R1 man I think Yamaha were being a bit saddistic when designing the EXUP!
Yea i love when hes waffling because hes funny af 😂😂. Dude is cool af. I wish i could work side by side him and get all his little secrets of doing such jobs lol. Keep up the great content brother. Much love to ya mate from Maryland❤❤❤.
you could have welded a nut to what was left of the bolt to get them out, i had to do 3 on my Honda NC23 exhaust ports, i got all 3 out cleanly, i did give them a whack with a centre punch first to crack the thread, the heat from welding helps the bolt free up.
Done this many times. You could try a left handed drill bit next time. The drill, drills anti clockwise. As the broken stud heats up and gets less material on it, the stud unscrews whilst drilling
For the copper grease there is a version that is nickel based. Up to 1100 degrees C stable. Sorry,forgot the brand but its used on steam turbines and such.
Ive been using some Irwin bolt extraction drill bit set, which are reversed. Usually as soon as the drill bit goes in through the bolt, the bolt starts backing out.
When re fitting the bolts use Loctite nickel antiseize or similar. It is the best on exhaust studs and bolts as it is rated at 1450 degrees centigrade.
Will you please STOP apologising for what you call "waffling" ... I, like many other's, want you to "waffle" and give really good detailed explanations. This is what we watch your video's for... All the best!
Loving this. So many good tips. Is there any worry of losing the flatness of the surface with the flappy disc? And I was always surprised how easy it is to tell when a hole is centred. But yeah, just going in with a punch and hoping to centre it. It's a knack for sure. You just need to use... Spider sense! You said it!
On the FZS1000 (1st gen) which has more or less the same engine, the oil level on many of them must be at the top level on the sight glass. Otherwise the lamp will be lit. At least that's the word on forums and FB-groups.
Excellent work again Jim - the owner will be pleased with your work.Two things i might add,for Hand Drilling where a bit of care and precision is needed i find Battery/Rechargable Drills are Crap,they have the Torque but lack the speed,too low a speed and your prone to drift,an old Skool plug in the mains one is better,if your Punch mark is slightly out they seem easier to correct.Secondly have you used any Spiral Taps,they are less prone to Snapping and give a good 1st cut.
Great vid. Yes, ultimately we only really learn by making mistakes because that's when you discover re percussions of what you've done. If you don't make mistakes you aren't learning👍
I have been fortunate in that the previous owner of my fazer 1000 must have done some maintenance on the valve over the years as they all came out without breaking. They were a bit dry and squeaky though. I've been using a bit of ceramic grease on the threads and the valve. Don't know if that's right or wrong but seems to work OK. Also I've found tightening to the correct torque helps when getting them out again . Great video .
I have an FZR1000 in my shed, someone has de-valved it as the exhaust was changed, the valve motor is still hanging round on top of the engine and its still wired, by all accounts the engine still performed as expected, i have been fixing the bike up slowly but have not been able to work on it for over 2yrs now
Grinding Dust... Ever think of setting up a vacuum cleaner while grinding? as for a sharp centre punch, those taps everyone breaks once in a blue moon, (as for getting a broken tap out, that's easy, they are that effing hard 9 times out of 10 you can shatter them out) , the broken shank makes an excellent really really hard centre punch.
Yeah old R1 oil light is something I’m very familiar with 😂 fairly cold engine mine would always come on and off and then back on, replaced switch and oil to recommend level still was happening… Little bit extra oil sorted it.
lol I love the rag in the exhaust! Like a lil grinding dust (maybe 1% will get in) will get into the exhaust. Heheheh! TOTAL OCD hahaha! If your bike sucks chaff back all the way from there it's really farked!
Jesus Jim, you’re right, intergalactic back order applies to items that are expensive and leave you stranded. I will take a guess and say the Yamaha manual say to service the EXUP valve every 5000 miles. If you don’t there is a guy in the UK who loves to fix them when they seize up.
I remember the guy where I bought my bike a long time ago was saying upon a time he had to repair a Yamaha Exup valve because it was stuck and he looked quite worried. Now I know why. 😂
Brilliant ,cracking insite into how jobs should be tackled ,main dealers would of replaced with new parts (if available)took one of your kidneys or said it can't be done
Don't snap the tap.. you're on your own 😂 Yup - have a colleague who does this regularly and it's a total ball ache. The way he uses cutting fluid you'd think it was unicorn tears....
If theres enough of the bolt protruding to be even able to get a nut on 1 thread i put a nut on and run drill down nut and dimple centre with drill ,guaranteed to have the absolute centre then .
I am curious about the "Copper Grease" you'll use? Knowing it will burn off but you know it helps the valve operating smoothly over time. That said, is there some type of elemental compounding between the copper & exhaust metals as the grease gets burned off....? When you say it makes a difference I believe you & I wonder if there's something happening between those metals to help it? Anyhoo, thanks very much. peace
When he says he's waffling... 🙃 That's when he gives me all of his years of experiences. That is priceless! 😍 Thank you for all you share with us.
Agree completely - waffle away as much as you like Jim , we’re all green sponges in comparison!
Thats all he does is Waffle😂😂😂
Like to use left hand drill bits myself, it’s always a pleasure when the stud just starts to lift out, doesn’t happen often I know but…
I should have read this before posting the same above!! Great minds etc !!!
Yep ill agree with the left hand drill bits, use a 4 or 5mm on a 6mm bolt thats snapped and the heat from drillimg i find brings out the thread thats left
I love the "ask me how I know" moments.... Ultimately proves the point that we learn best, by our mistakes.
Thanks for passing on your knowledge Jim, absolutely priceless.
Should make it a series “Ask Me How I know: Finding Circlips on a Gravel Driveway” :D
i own the yamaha fzs 1000 fazer, exactly the same exup valve my friends also own the same bike too so plenty of experience with the exup valve, being seized snapped bolts, even snapped taps when first started doing it. now none of us every have any issues, i recommend ceramic grease over copper grease even though the grease burns away the ceramic particles do not and they are also lubricating, i also ditch all the yamaha bolts for stainless on my friends (with ceramic grease and spring washers) or titanium on mine, even titanium m6 are still cheaper than yamaha want each, that way zero corrosion ever on the bolts. i strip maybe once a year perhaps even once every couple of years and never had a issue since in the 17 years have owned the bike. it takes 10 minutes to strip clean regrease and rebuild it now. just a tip with the ceramic grease instead of copper grease
I’ve seen so many videos doing this and fucking up Jim at last someone doing it properly it’s all about taking time and good tools oh and half a idea what you are doing 🏴👍
Very nice! Glad you mentioned to heat and quench the punch to harden the tip after being reground. That’s an important step a lot of people don’t realize.
-and the colour ! ( Bash those grain boundaries, Guys and Gels.................)
If you snap the tap off in the hole, find a bolt the same thread with a good hex head and cut longways down the threaded end at 3 places to make 3 prongs. These will then slide down inside the flutes to grip the broken tap. Put a socket on the head and screw the old tap out. As to finding the centre of the broken stud, find a socket the same size as the ground off stud and run a drill down the centre of the socket. It will mark the centre of the stud.
Brill content. Dont forget "flat ended taps for blind holes".
A masterclass in preparation. No sir, you do not bore us about drilling 😂 fabulous to watch 👍👏👌
The master ...no apologies....just years of knowledge imparted....class
He's really all world great... enjoy his content... be an assest to any TOP professional race team.. which IIRC he was incolved with at some point in time
Great video, nice to see taking your time and planning before diving in! On a note regards the the copper grease in high temp environments, there are better alternatives although more expensive. As part of my Job I work on Aero engines and we regularly use a product called Bostik Never Seez. It works superbly on threads where you have to remove a borescope plug or bolts that can't seize due to cost and time pressures! Perfect for exhausts bolts or shafts eh EXUP! 😉
Great advice 👍
I find the use of a spring loaded auto punch is better because you then have a spare hand to hold it right in the centre of the bolt that you are going to drill out.
Just watched part 4 of your gsxr750 engine re-build. It's like being back at college but shed loads better because you make it interesting and I'm sat here with a doobie and a beer. 👍😂
As an ex multiple Exup owner , the sheer joy of a seeing a gently floating free exhaust valve assembly is a thing to behold ! Great work
Luckily there's a small removable cover on the other side of the Exup valve so that the bearings can be knocked out. Shame they didn't do that on the early Exups 🤔
This is proper motorcycle threapy, thanks Jim.....don't worry, your waffleage is gold!!! cheers from Oz..👏👏👏👏
I'm learning so much , things I didn't know, spent hours going through the past videos
I stripped and sorted some issues on a ZX6R 1996. These little details like making the centre punch sharp are things that would have saved me hours on some jobs as a DIY first timer. Experience can't be bought and Haynes manuals don't tell you these things. If I get a bike again that needs work it's going to you....
Thank you, I got a couple of really useful things from this, putting the punch in a drill to grind it - that’s a great tip, will definitely use that, also reminded why every time I sharpen a tool it’s soft as sh1t, it’s because I need to heat it cherry red and then quench it - blimey I know that I was taught it at college 40 years ago and somehow I’ve either forgotten or just got stupid - so another useful tip thank you!
Also loved the care you took to grind off those bolts to be able to really centre the punch mark, and reminder of importance of cleanliness around metal grinder shards! - thank you!
Keep up the great work!
As ever, watching an absolute master at his craft is a pleasure, a privilege and truly inspiring.
Yamaha fzr exup 1000 exup valve was even more trouble than the R1 i had quite a few exup1000 back in the day and later the r1 there was a extremely hi temp graphite lube that was capable of withstanding the hi temperatures it was nearly impossible to get hold of you could hold a blow torch on it and it and would turn black and grey but still do the job without burning away i tested it along with copper grease it was amazing stuff called exup juice .iv still got a small tub of it somewhere it was so hard to get no bike shops sold it graphite grease was the way to go but still needed regular service
Great information 👍 🙏
As a machinist I have one tip to make it easier to hit the center when drilling out bolts:
From the same place that has the Good (tm) drills get 90º center drills for spot drilling (no the ones for a live center in a lathe, they are completely wrong here). These drills have a very small center and usually no spirals at all which makes them very good at starting where intended without walking.
(Technically center drills for carbide drills should have 140º but that assumes the precise positioning of a CNC for both spot and drill.)
Why would the lathe ones be wrong in this case then?
@@steveclark.. The scenarios are completely different when the details are scrutinized!
Here we have a stationary object and we want the tool to cut precisely where we put it, thus the very sharp but shallow point in a dedicated center drill.
In the lathe the part is spinning, we don't want the drill to start where we point it but at the center of rotation thus it has a different geometry and a stubbier center.
(Feel free to ask again if I'm unclear. Your question is relevant, not even many experienced machinists are aware of this!)
@@sharg0 I do get where you are going with this, much of it makes sense. I have a lathe and box of center drills, not sure about the geometry difference on the other bits that you are on about to be honest, like with taps, there's loads of different designs I know.
Left hand drill bits help, will often pull the remains out as your drilling
Nicely done sir! It's the kind of job we all have to confront at some point - so easy to fuck up. Great to see a masterclass, thanks so much. (Yes, I have snapped a tap off before!)
I always try to use a reverse drill bit, they're fantastic for removing broken bolts, you're drilling it out, and at the same time putting heat into and weakening the bolt, half the time they reverse out before having to do any more.👍
I've always wondered if hypnosis works. I think we should club together and get Jim a session where he forgets the f-bomb and has it replaced with another word.
Cracking stuff there and great to see another R1 back on the road.
Aye replace it with "fuckingbastard" haha
Thanks Jim love the waffle and the ask me how i know.... 😎👍👍👍
Wise words indeed about not snapping a tap off. Many years ago, I decided to put some bar end covers over the big fat heavy bar ends on my TL1000S. Of course, the knob cheese bolt snapped taking it apart due to threadlock. I then promptly snapped an easy out off inside the aforementioned bolt. So that was fun to sort out, luckily I have a mate who lives a stone's throw away with a fully equipped workshop, he drilled it out with a carbide bit, then turned up an insert which was threaded into the bars, then tapped out for the correct thread. Phew!
Ask me how i know on a t- shirt for merchandise...defo buy one 😂
Having also butchered an exup valve unseizing it and having fun with all the snapped bolts, watching this vid took me back to doing that bastard job :) I opted for stainless bolts and a good smothering in copper grease, will be revisiting the job after about 10 years so i'll let you know how it goes, keep up the great work you're very knowledgeable and interesting to learn from
Thanks Mate 👍
For broken (right hand) studs/threads I have found drilling with left hand drills to work extremely well. Many times the offending piece left in will unscrew with the action of the drill. Left hand taps can be used too to bring out the drilled piece left in,,,, hope this helps you and others left in the same position
I'm new to the channel but catching up on the videos and enjoying every one whilst trying to soak up some of your knowledge !!
You've obviously drilled out studs many times before and you're trusting your methods, but here's a couple of little things from an old toolmaker that may help!!
When using the centre punch it's far easier to nudge the mark it makes to a true centre position rather than try to correct when drilling. Use a centre drill to start the hole, it wont wander from the centre punch mark like a drill point can. Lastly use a left hand drill, the heat generated at the cutting edge and removing the bulk of the stud often unscrews the stud whilst drilling.
"Pay attention" 😂
Made me laugh cause today, I popped in the shops with my own shopping bag and the kid on the checkout asked me three times if I needed a bag! Paying attention is becoming a thing of the past.
Another beaut back on the road,excellent work!
Every video I watch of yours Jim just reiterates in my head that you know what you're talking about, and you do some talking 😂 (joke). I would trust you with any of my bikes, which trust me, means a lot.
Well done fella, I'm always impressed with you solutions, and exanations of them.
@25:45 the oil light coming on... my 2000 R1 does that too. it's a weird warm up thing that it does. starts oil light is fine, warmed fine, ride for 5 minutes and comes on, then goes off again after a couple minutes and doesn't come on again unless the level goes too low. many stops and glances at the site window have confirmed this, and one occasion of dodge piston rings burning oil :)
Thanks Mate, good information. This basically did exactly as you described 👍
I found that cleaning the float in the oil level switch works best 👍🏻
I must admit, when I had a similar issue with a Bimota Dieci (FZR1000 engine and downpipes), I took the exhaust off and took it to a machine shop
This is great info and I truly enjoy the waffleage mate!
I just laughed at this sentence.
You need multiple opportunities to fuck this up. Classic 😂😂😂😂
Great job Jim...quality wafflearge...
Master is woffling, grasshopper is listening contently absorbing the wisdom by osmosis!
precision work, top job!
When using angle grinders on ferrous , just fit a magnetic catcher works terrific…..🚀👍alongside a centre drill….
Great video 😊 as I get older, I have more patience for stubborn things like snapping bolts😊 deal with it basically 😅
Hi Jim. Would have been nice to see how the drilled bolts came out, not just the drilling of it.
If possible let us know in the next video what the reason for the oil light coming on was. Other than that it was another instructive video which I kindly thank you for.
Keep on waffling fella. New follower here and love the knowledge from years of experience which you are sharing with us all, every day is a school day. I know there are some seasoned followers who'll say I know that but lots of us don't.
Keep up the awesome work and the videos coming 👍🏻
The compressor is the star of the show!
Putting a smaller drill down when u have centre punched it will make it fool proof to be on centre .One turn in, half a turn out . And repeat too Tap out . That'll stop u marking and ripping the thread apart . Apart from that . Well done . Invest in colbolt drill bits 😉 maybe some high temperature greese
Excellent as always Jim 👍 as a machinist, methodical thinking is always the way to go when doing shit like this! I also being an R1 man I think Yamaha were being a bit saddistic when designing the EXUP!
Superb!
Indeed, I had to do this with my four cylinder 125 last year and I can tell you it was a bugger.
In always used timesert works perfect on injector bolt threads on a aluminium Mercedes head never tried helicoil
This was another good one to watch and learn
“Don’t ring ME” 😂😂😂
I might ring him this week.. " G'day Jim, i've snapped a tap i purchased from Temu in a EXUP exhaust gate.... I'm in Sydney".....
Yea i love when hes waffling because hes funny af 😂😂. Dude is cool af. I wish i could work side by side him and get all his little secrets of doing such jobs lol. Keep up the great content brother. Much love to ya mate from Maryland❤❤❤.
Too right mate, you waffle on Jim ✅️👍
09:25, you can see the threads in the bolt, nice!
you could have welded a nut to what was left of the bolt to get them out, i had to do 3 on my Honda NC23 exhaust ports, i got all 3 out cleanly, i did give them a whack with a centre punch first to crack the thread, the heat from welding helps the bolt free up.
That’s what I’d have tried first for sure.
Yep, I'd try that, doesn't stop drilling out if eventually that's necessary
As always brilliant content, Thank you
Done this many times. You could try a left handed drill bit next time. The drill, drills anti clockwise. As the broken stud heats up and gets less material on it, the stud unscrews whilst drilling
I've tried them a few times over the years, but I never really had much luck. Maybe I'll give them another go 🤔👍
For the copper grease there is a version that is nickel based. Up to 1100 degrees C stable. Sorry,forgot the brand but its used on steam turbines and such.
Ive been using some Irwin bolt extraction drill bit set, which are reversed. Usually as soon as the drill bit goes in through the bolt, the bolt starts backing out.
Brilliant lesson! If I keep watching these vids I might become dangerous😬
To crack bolts ill nip them up first , youll here em crack then undo , plus often heat around a bolt if it helps anyone
When re fitting the bolts use Loctite nickel antiseize or similar. It is the best on exhaust studs and bolts as it is rated at 1450 degrees centigrade.
Will you please STOP apologising for what you call "waffling" ... I, like many other's, want you to "waffle" and give really good detailed explanations. This is what we watch your video's for... All the best!
I thought you were going to quench it in your cup of tea!!!
Could you have used the holes in the ex up valve flange to centre the drill ?
You aren't yapping pointlessly you're explaining the things the manuals neglect to tell you. Thank you for the yaps lol
Graphite powder better on EXUP valve with extreme Temp. grease . Works in a foundry should work in this application.
Would stainless steel bolts be better for that?
Loving this. So many good tips. Is there any worry of losing the flatness of the surface with the flappy disc? And I was always surprised how easy it is to tell when a hole is centred. But yeah, just going in with a punch and hoping to centre it. It's a knack for sure. You just need to use... Spider sense! You said it!
I use old taps sharpened to a point for centre punching seized in sheared bolts.
Cobalt drills for drilling bolts out
The Exup valve pulley should be at the 9o/c default position, adjusted by the cables.
7 p,s my man
Prior
Preparation and
Planning
Prevents
Piss
Poor
Performance
I have always tried to use lefthanded drills when drilling out bolts. Sometimes if they grab it can wind out the bold.
On the FZS1000 (1st gen) which has more or less the same engine, the oil level on many of them must be at the top level on the sight glass. Otherwise the lamp will be lit. At least that's the word on forums and FB-groups.
Excellent work again Jim - the owner will be pleased with your work.Two things i might add,for Hand Drilling where a bit of care and precision is needed i find Battery/Rechargable Drills are Crap,they have the Torque but lack the speed,too low a speed and your prone to drift,an old Skool plug in the mains one is better,if your Punch mark is slightly out they seem easier to correct.Secondly have you used any Spiral Taps,they are less prone to Snapping and give a good 1st cut.
Great vid. Yes, ultimately we only really learn by making mistakes because that's when you discover re percussions of what you've done. If you don't make mistakes you aren't learning👍
I have been fortunate in that the previous owner of my fazer 1000 must have done some maintenance on the valve over the years as they all came out without breaking. They were a bit dry and squeaky though. I've been using a bit of ceramic grease on the threads and the valve. Don't know if that's right or wrong but seems to work OK. Also I've found tightening to the correct torque helps when getting them out again . Great video .
I have an FZR1000 in my shed, someone has de-valved it as the exhaust was changed, the valve motor is still hanging round on top of the engine and its still wired, by all accounts the engine still performed as expected, i have been fixing the bike up slowly but have not been able to work on it for over 2yrs now
great job as always lad keep up the great work next video please
Common issue that oil level switch-particularly if it's been standing -mine righted itself after regular riding.
Looks like it turned off at the end of the ride, so may have fixed it self
Would it not be helpful to use lefthand drill bits so it will possibly spins the bolt out when it gets warm and thinner
Grinding Dust... Ever think of setting up a vacuum cleaner while grinding? as for a sharp centre punch, those taps everyone breaks once in a blue moon, (as for getting a broken tap out, that's easy, they are that effing hard 9 times out of 10 you can shatter them out) , the broken shank makes an excellent really really hard centre punch.
Use the correct anti clockwise drill bit and they come out easy...
Can you use left handed drill bits before the tap?
Yeah old R1 oil light is something I’m very familiar with 😂 fairly cold engine mine would always come on and off and then back on, replaced switch and oil to recommend level still was happening… Little bit extra oil sorted it.
I have done this, but found it easier to remove the exhaust and do it on a workbench
lol I love the rag in the exhaust! Like a lil grinding dust (maybe 1% will get in) will get into the exhaust. Heheheh! TOTAL OCD hahaha! If your bike sucks chaff back all the way from there it's really farked!
Jesus Jim, you’re right, intergalactic back order applies to items that are expensive and leave you stranded.
I will take a guess and say the Yamaha manual say to service the EXUP valve every 5000 miles. If you don’t there is a guy in the UK who loves to fix them when they seize up.
I remember the guy where I bought my bike a long time ago was saying upon a time he had to repair a Yamaha Exup valve because it was stuck and he looked quite worried. Now I know why. 😂
Super bleep surgery! Love your channel!
Brilliant ,cracking insite into how jobs should be tackled ,main dealers would of replaced with new parts (if available)took one of your kidneys or said it can't be done
Ever tried a left turning drill bits
Don't snap the tap.. you're on your own 😂
Yup - have a colleague who does this regularly and it's a total ball ache. The way he uses cutting fluid you'd think it was unicorn tears....
Jim can the exup valves be taken out I have a Fazer 1000 and getting a bit of gip with it I heard they can be blanked
If theres enough of the bolt protruding to be even able to get a nut on 1 thread i put a nut on and run drill down nut and dimple centre with drill ,guaranteed to have the absolute centre then .
I am curious about the "Copper Grease" you'll use? Knowing it will burn off but you know it helps the valve operating smoothly
over time. That said, is there some type of elemental compounding between the copper & exhaust metals as the grease gets
burned off....? When you say it makes a difference I believe you & I wonder if there's something happening between those
metals to help it? Anyhoo, thanks very much. peace
"" Ask me how I know ""....... That told me half the battle ahead w/o wasting our time going there. Learning lessons, yup
You wouldn't need to heat and quench if you dipped it in water every few seconds before it turns blue.
Top man.
There's a product from America called rescue-bit and that was a lifesaver with a badly broken tap. Very pricey though.