IF U DONT GET RID OF THE BUGS THRU HEAT bc likewise i would never ever spray chemical on raw wood bc of 1 discoloration that it is going to happen because ur stain or ur poly or ur resin really bring out the detail of the woods grain so u will see any discoloration, or blotches or streaking 10 fold.. 2 ur adding moisture back to ur wood bc ur going to have to soak the wood to get to those deeply dug in bugs which in turn will double ur dry time annnnnd mess with ur finished product..3 tryst me when i say u will have these little beetle like bugs flying and dying around ur house or buisness for the next 4-6months which is a huge pain in the ass and tbh isnt a very presentable sight to ur guests.i built my first entertainment center in my house didnt heat treat my timbers and for the next 4-6 months i vacuumed up these little beetles EVERY SINGLE DAY!
i think the real problem is just how do you kiln dry without a kiln? The attic thing makes me nervous. What if its not hot enough and the bugs start eating my roof?
@@PerfectPencil After milling (diy-er) before stacking/drying I use a people-safe borax based solution (Timbor)... haven’t seen evidence of any bugs/critters. Could make salad bowls and such with treated wood whereas some products use toxic (anti-freeze) to penetrate... read suppliers in Australia must disclose such whereas here in US no disclosure.
After watching your videos for the past 2 years and learning so much, I decided to purchase a coffee table size slab from Goby and had a bad experience. This piece was delivered to my son in Colorado one year ago. Long story short, my son moved back to So Cal (where I live) and we just started the coffee table project. The slab was supposed to have been kiln dried, but now there’s a crack right down the middle, and it’s showing on both sides. It’s been stored in a climate controlled garage since delivery, and it’s 1.5” thick, so the one year per inch rule is close. I’m not experienced with bow tie inlays, but this piece is definitely a candidate. I’m going to call Goby, but their return policy is only 30 days. Thank you for the information provided in this video. Take care.
Very helpful! I wish I had seen this video a year ago. I made a desktop and a year after it was made, I had powder beetles hatch and dig their way out of a table completely sealed in epoxy resin for over a year.
I bought a Wagner pinless meter on Amazon almost 10 years ago.its been one of the best investments I’ve made. Anyone regularly using hardwood lumber over 1” thick should pick one up. So much easier and more reliable than pin meters.
My first river table is in process (air dried) One slab was twisted and the table cupped at the cnc Router shop. I brought it back, clamped it to the work table and it stabilized. Next I installed c-channels. Hope to get it leveled next week before anything changes. Hope the c-channel holds.
Very informative; Thank you. So, i completed my first epoxy coffee table top about 1 month ago but just finished adding the legs. I did not verifying dryness or making sure there were no bugs, weren't really sure how.. The logs sat outside for about 6 months, then i cut them into 2'' slabs and let them out in the sun (hardly rained all summer and actually had a mini wild fire in the back area of my community) for another 6months to dry. I have been working on my project (42'' L X 22" W an 1.75" thick) for about 3 months due other obligations. I used Atlantic red cedar fallen from Florence. During the flood coat, i saw 1 bug crawled outta a hole. I anticipated a few coming but had already decided that i was going to encase the wood in epoxy in hopes they'll all die eventually. I haven't notice any warping, bubbles or bugs coming up outta the table but my next one i'll do my diligence. Do you have any recommendations for a chemical solution for treating for bugs? How do I know if I have any moisture issues after project completion?
I plan on making an epoxy table for my parents anniversary. I bought a slab that was plenty dry, but didn't pay too much attention to how straight it was. It looked straight until I laid it on my table. And they were milled to 1" thick. So now by the time I get them flat it will be a thin board. But I saw one of your other videos where you made your table bigger and cut strips off to make it look thicker. So I will try that out.
Happy to hear you use your attic for drying. I am going to put a exhaust fan in primarily to get moisture out. A small fan to keep the air moving around the wood. Please give any ideas you may have to help. My attic is above the garage with no ventilation in it now
I would use caution drying wood in an attic. Fair chance it will cause the wood to dry too fast and warp or cup. Applying sanding sealer before putting it in the attic wouldn't hurt. After taking it out of the attic I would definitely leave it in your shop to adjust back to the normal temperature.
I love the videos man. I chemically treat lumber with fire retardant. Thru a lot of study I somehow stumbled onto your videos. And it's made me love what you do. Edit: the moisture meter really is a God send. They are pricey but well worth the investment.
I guessed 10,000 on large and a 100 bucks on the small one, almost got right on😉 good thing I kept a large stack of slabs in an old corn crib from like ten years ago (black walnut,cherry and maple)looks like popularity has driven up prices😃 Work that you do has helped that very “popularity “, so for that and your instructional help- THANK YOU
Hi Blacktail Studio! New woodworker here. I recently found your channel and I love the videos you put out. I am especially impressed that a channel with ~1.5M subscribers has the highest consistency when it comes to replying to comments, that least that I've seen. That, to me, is noble and very admirable! You've got yourself another subscriber Sir! Thank you for teaching me about live edge woodworking through your videos
Is there ever a situation that you need to run some type of metal bracket or bar to support the epoxy? I guess it would be more likely with an epoxy edge, but perhaps in a river table?
Great video, as usual. I learned the hard way, kiln drying kills the bugs but not the eggs. Not sure what to do about that. That said, I had only one problem in over 30 years.
I live in Vietnam very humid we have access to some great wood but not to a kiln possibly in Saigon but not where I live. I just buy a lot of wood stick and let it sit around for a number of years thinking about trying to build a solar kiln Will definitely buy a better moisture meter
Cam, thanks for the great videos, especially those designed for beginners. Speaking of beginners, one area a little overwhelming is the broad range of possible epoxies available for the different applications. Do you have a guide that directs beginners on which epoxy is best for which applications? Deep pours vs. smaller checks and knots vs. even smaller worm holes and pin holes. I have seen recommendations across many of your videos but would appreciate a summary if one exists. Thank you
You can also treat bugs with steam. A small steam generator piped into a box or bag with your slab in it with draw out or kill the bugs. This method does however set you back some time as the added moisture needs to naturally dissipate
Because my grandfather got his own wood and had it processed at the sawmill down the street, he stored his wood in his "holy of holies", his workshop!! My grandmother called it his "holy of holies!" LOL 😂 I But his wood was never treated chemically, and he stored it from green wood to wood he could use there. It would be laying across the rafters, he never had to worry about bugs, chipmunks or mice because there was always a cat that stayed there. And she would kill anything. I do remember though, that he would plug up some of the holes on the inside of the wood with bees wax. Suffocating the insects. If anything got out, the cat got it. Best Regards and Stay Safe. From Ontario, Canada, Jenn. 💖 💖 🇨🇦 🌟 🌟 🌟 🌟 🌟
Great videos!!!! If you can please discuss the durability of casting epoxy. I’ve seen other systems that require a top coat of a traditional thin pour epoxy to get some durability and scratch resistance.
Seemed mostly like an ad for buying the moisture meter he was given. That and incomplete advice on how to store wood in your attic (his suggestion is highly likely going to cause major warping/cupping) and zero advice on how to chemically treat for bugs even though he has a segment on it.
I'm very interested in this series, I've always wanted to try this but wasn't sure about dealing with the bark properly or stabilizing everything, even attaching the slab properly to the legs. I look forward to watching all these episodes. Thanks!
Start small, maybe get yourself a little lathe and spin some pens and bowls. Do some neat epoxy panel pours. That's what I've been doing. Then just slowly but surely collect tools and start building bigger and bigger projects.
Have some faith in your work. If you think your work is good and will sell. Practice on little pieces then look to a credit line or a loan to front costs that you can use to cover then pay back and make money on. Soon after you will have a system where you wont need the credit
Would it help speed up the drying process if I cut the slab in half in advance? Or do you not recommend doing that because of potential warping while it dries?
I'm having problems right now with a coffee table I'm making from Scottish Pine. Fungi has made it a beautiful and interesting project but chasing the rot through the slab is proving to be impossible and I might have to resort to a copper oxychloride bath and hope. I plan to use a clear resin so that you can see into the piece.
Cam, wish this vid had been out a month ago. Just bought two 9' slabs of Elm from a local sawmill. Turns out they are at 32% TMC, didn't have my new Wagner at the time. TOTAL NOOB MISTAKE. At 2" thick it will take years to dry. Trying to find somewhere to get the wood kiln dried but no luck in the DFW TX area. If any of your peeps know where I could get this done I would really appreciate the info. Great videos Cam, one of my favorite channels!!
Hey Cam! I have a question. I have a 4'x4' 2.5" live edge slab that is at 45%. It was just cut down last month from a 150yr old tree. How do I dry this? I only have one slab, so I can't sticker it with anything. I also don't have a ton of room to dry it laying down in the garage. Will it be ok letting it dry propped up against the wall for a bit, or will it warp? Bugs are not an issue as it was packed in dry ice for 24 hours. I'm not selling this. It will be our own coffee table someday! 🎉
Man, I'd love to have one of those tables in my man-cave one day... one day! Your art is amazing. But wow... $11k for only the wood it's definitely out of my means.
I am working with a wormy piece of very dry mesquite. My question is do you dig out the worm holes and then fill them and let cure? I am making resin chartcuterie boards.
My question would be. When making a live edge table does one add bracing to keep the table straight. I ve seen some people do it and I ve seen others not do it. So looking forward to the series.
I couldn't find the answer to this, so forgive me if I missed it. How do you find the water or moisture pockets that might be left after KD and then how do you deal with them? Thanks, Thom
What do you use to debark a live edge slab. I remember one of you videos which i can't find now showed a nylon type wheel I believe was in a 4 1/2 angle grinder? Thank you in advance.
Cam, may I suggest another rule?????? Always check the epoxy kits for having the right containers (2 resign, 1 hardener). I received one resign and two hardeners. Ouch!!!!!!! Had to through a nine gallon pour away with wood and forms away.
I'd probably have to sell my kids to pay for something as large as the bigger slab here in the UK and that $90 slab, wow. I'm always envious of the woods available to you guys at the prices you have.
@@CommercialForest Probably multiple reasons. Distance being one, the further something ships the more it's costing with large lumber on a boat. But there's also supply and demand. I always see you guys walk into a home depot or similar and come out with hardwoods. Here, no chance! If there was that demand the big chains would carry it. We get the terrible "banana wood" (pine/fir similar) or if lucky redwood. I think the US has a much bigger sense of making stuff and of course it's a massive market. I did speak to a local timber yard the other day and got speaking to the owner, so I can order in what I need. Not bad prices for here - but I might have to order a pallet of it if the supplier won't break up an order! I've got a couple of wood reclamation yards I can haunt too... but that's very much luck what they have that day.
@@BlacktailStudio That's interesting to know though. I'll check it out - could be a case I could do a group buy with other people and split it this end. Thanks.
Chris Franklyn That’s interesting. I just assumed that European countries had a comparable selection... maybe not of North American hardwoods but other local species. Now that I think about it, we had a few people in the UK who were ordering Black Limba boards from us every once in a while. It makes a lot more sense in the context of what you’re telling me. thanks - Steve
I recently got into wood working with the hopes that I will make a desk for myself one day. I have found some really good deals on facebook market place, I got a 12 inch wide by 6 foot long and 2 inch thick slab of black walnut for 20 dollars. perfect for a bench and end table I wanted to try my hand at making.
Just bought a 2" slab of beetle kill ash. Lots of holes and a fair amount of soft, rotten wood. Was thinking of doing an epoxy emersion to fill it in and bring stability back to the wood. Open to any suggestions
I always wondered about cupping and twisting on such wide and large slabs. I heard some people use steel battens... Do you? If so, how do you attach them? Regular wood screws? Lag screws? Polyurethane adhesive? Thanks!
What is the best thicknes of the raw slab? What is the usual thicknes of the finished table? Have you ever made 1 inch thick table? Thank you for the videos, I have learned a lot.
After finding bugs in a mantle I installed, I removed it and brought it to a termite control company. They were tenting and fumigating a house in the area. For $20 he put the mantle in the garage while the house was treated. Seems to have killed off the bugs
Thanks again for your videos, I really enjoy them and learn a lot. One question I have had at times are related to your sign. I saw you finish it (twice!) and was curious if there was a story behind the creation of it, and the different inlays? I heard you mention the logo is CNC, which makes sense, was curious for the other blocks. Or just a way to deal with defects in simple and creative way?? Thanks! John
I have alot of olive wood I'd like to make table s or something do you have any suggestions or experience with olive wood. I'm in northern California and it's warm some of it is cracking what should I do?
I cut a black cherry burl last month and it is drying in my shed. All of the bark is still on. Should I scrape all of that off then spray for bugs? I don’t want it to crack too much.
No secret word this week? Most of my carpentry has been building scenery for theatrical productions. Sooooo much more forgiving than furniture. Wet wood can still be an issue. I was building a set many years ago with very wet 1x4. Like probably not fully dried and then got rained on 1x4. We got all the flats/ walls framed and skinned in 1 day. We came back the next morning and half of them had disassembled themselves before the glue had dried. Whole wall sections had twisted as they dried overnight. 4’ pieces had cupped nearly 20 degrees. Really terrible day.
Many thanks for this video and all the others that you've made! They're highly insightful, informative and concise. Question about drying untreated wood slabs in the attic though - How do you go about it to ensure bugs don't then invade your attic space? Like you, I have a hot attic space but have been wary of doing so for that reason. Thanks again!
Is your attic really 140? I've got wood drying in my attic right now and it gets to about 110 or maybe 120 I'd guess. Haven't seen any bugs so far but now I'm a bit worried!
Oh my stars! I've just cut a tree down. I've got adleast 4 slabs more if thinned. You're telling me I gotta wait for it to dry & I gotta kill bugs. I live in the midwest. What's the best way to put them away to dry so they don't warp. And dry sooner then later. Each slap is adleast 5 to 6 inches.
Hey! Thank you so much for posting this. I'm a beginner and I thought I would get into working with live-edge by trial by fire. I just bought a 2" thick green slab of maple (60"x34") that has not been kiln-dried. I don't have a kiln or a hot attic (thanks to apartment living). I have it sitting horizontally on a coffee table in my living room, which is fairly dry. My hope is that I can let it air dry for a couple years and any wood-boring insects will die. If that sounds crazy, let me know!
@@BlacktailStudio ah, thank you - I will look into chemical treating the wood then! Edit: I am actually going to try and build a quick kiln out of a portable heater, foam insulation and duct tape. Let's hope this works!
I've been trying to find a walnut slab for my coffee table project and I was surprised how inflated the prices are, slab similar to that $90 one will cost you $200> $300 if you don't have friends in a sawmill
@@BlacktailStudio do you recommend clamping the slab(s) ,pressing them firmly against the bottom of the form so they don't float? I saw other guys here on YT doing that
Hello, I love your videos and they have helped me with my projects. I have a Parota slab that I'm working with and it has quite a bit of bug holes in the sapwood (the white part) and the sapwood is pretty soft. Can I still use this or will I have to remove the sapwood?
Hi cam I'm planning on making a live edge desk for my major project and I am getting some camphor slabs made up from a large log I've been watching your videos and like your black metal legs that you use but I am only allowed to use wood do you have any ideas of a way to make the same look but with timber. thanks
I had a 65-ft red oak tree in my back yard, that we had cut down last week. We sealed the ends, & were so excited to do some woodworking projects w/this amazing wood----then we heard the 1-inch-to-1-year rule. :( Is there any way to dry this stuff faster? Do kilns exist that will dry my wood, after I cut it into smaller sections?
I’m currently looking to buy a new sander. Looking at the Festool Rotex 150 because I plan on doing a lot of slab work. Do you recommend this or do you still think the ETS EC150 is better? I’m looking for an all around sander. Finish and for cleaning up slabs and marks from the router after Levelling. Second question is you recommend Klingspor and Mirka sanding discs. Can you add a link to where you get yours currently? Thank you in advance, Love your channel and all your work.
Question...I am preparing a maple slab to be used as a river table, I plan on using a deep pour epoxy along with a table top finish. My question is that because I do not have access to a planer or a big drum sander I am doing my best to get both sides flat and parallel with a belt sander. But, reality dictates it wont be perfect which will result in a lot of wasted epoxy under the slab, so I see two options: 1. Place a silicon bead around the bottom of the slab to control bleeding under the slab. Or 2. "Float" the slab on a thin layer of table top, then once hard, scuff and pour the deep pour epoxy per normal process. Which is preferred/recommended for epoxies.
Not certain about the points made but ,if anyone else wants to learn about primal survivor how to build a shelter try Franaar Escape Death Formula (do a google search )? Ive heard some great things about it and my cousin got great results with it.
I purchased an Ash slab that had lots of I guess bug trails filled with hard powdered sawdust I guess I spent several hours digging out the dust with my flex cable grinder with a ball bit and now have lots of trenches on the slab. Any thoughts on how to finish out. I thought maybe filling with a different color epoxy and let them cure and sand down before filling the mold with the main epoxy pour.
Thanks so much for your advice!! Very well done! I'm kind of UA-cam challenged so please forgive me, but i can't find the rest of your Beginners series - did I miss the link on your page?
Hi! I am working on a live edge dining table and unsurprisingly there are bug holes in the outer inch or inch and a half of the slab. I’m planning to finish with Rubio monocoat and filling some crack with epoxy. How do you advise dealing with the bug holes? The dimensions of the finished table would be smaller than I’d like if I tried to remove enough material to eliminate the holes. Thinking about filling them with epoxy but not sure if that’s a good idea. I would greatly appreciate any advice you can offer. Thanks!
Can’t guess on the giant slab. I don’t know what kind of wood it is. I’ve purchased very nice large slabs from $800 to $4,000. Different woods and thicknesses, though. I have had ambrosia larvae continue to bore in scrap maple, but not in finished pieces.
I absolutely love your videos and was hoping to start making some live-edge tables of my own. How do you recommend finding clients? I don't want to spend a fortune on epoxy and then not have anyone buy it, but I can't seem to find a good way to attract clients. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Keep up the good work!
I definitely don’t recommend spending a bunch on materials without it being sold. I’d start making stuff for yourself and family/friends to build a portfolio. See if they can at least cover materials. Then take commissions from there.
I have a question about finding wood. I can get tons of live edge wood here cheap, but after watching your video, I’m a little concerned about bugs. Is there anything about cold treating to kill the bugs? It’s gets to -35°C in the winter (and in my garage). We never have an issue with pine Beatles as they don’t survive here,... just curious if you think I should still find someplace to have it kiln dried? Another question,... have you tried using softer wood such as pine or cedar, and thoughts on those?
Hi Cam, I am really enjoying your videos. I watch a lot of woodworking videos but I’ve never replied back to the author until now. Your explanations with intricate detail are so helpful. You mentioned in this version that you had a follow up video to discuss how to buy slabs. But I can’t find it. Can you give me the exact title so I can do a search? Thank you.
Thank you for the great video! Very helpful. I have a question. I really enjoy cutting pieces with a chainsaw, and I have the opportunity to cut a eucalyptus log here in Southern California that has been used as a bench - on the ground for many years. Do logs lose moisture and dry adequately on the ground, or are they still moist inside when cut. Is this wood considered green, and can it be kiln-dried? Thank you so much
Great video. Very informative. I just milled some 2 1/2" redwood slabs from my property that I was hoping to use for a bar top on a outdoor kitchen unit I will be building next year on my deck. Just wondering with the pieces being outside in heat and cold is there different drying times I should be looking at or still want down to the 9,10 range on a moisture meter?
Basically, the cleaner, the better. You want good clean wood to bond to. Can’t be sure if epoxy will totally seem behind the bark. If it doesn’t and the bark falls off, the epoxy falls off.
Hi, I am from India. I recently purchased two blocks of wood from a tree fallen close to my home. I am new to wood working and wanted to create resin tables out of them. Would the logs be live would? Should the table be made with or without the bark? Any other things to consider as a first project?
@@BlacktailStudio thank you. Yes I have been watching some of your videos. I will be starting with my project in a month. Could you guide me with the tools I will be requiring? It would be great if we could connect over mail.
I want to make a epoxy dinning table for myself from which I can remove the top and hang it on the wall, similar to what is on background of this video
So I have this wood collection and with winter around the corner I was wondering if my wood collection would still dry the same and be fine if it was stored in a barn that has no heat but blocks out the snow do you think it would still dry the same and everything or does it need to be in a heated place or something?
IF U DONT GET RID OF THE BUGS THRU HEAT bc likewise i would never ever spray chemical on raw wood bc of 1 discoloration that it is going to happen because ur stain or ur poly or ur resin really bring out the detail of the woods grain so u will see any discoloration, or blotches or streaking 10 fold.. 2 ur adding moisture back to ur wood bc ur going to have to soak the wood to get to those deeply dug in bugs which in turn will double ur dry time annnnnd mess with ur finished product..3 tryst me when i say u will have these little beetle like bugs flying and dying around ur house or buisness for the next 4-6months which is a huge pain in the ass and tbh isnt a very presentable sight to ur guests.i built my first entertainment center in my house didnt heat treat my timbers and for the next 4-6 months i vacuumed up these little beetles EVERY SINGLE DAY!
Oh no!!
i think the real problem is just how do you kiln dry without a kiln? The attic thing makes me nervous. What if its not hot enough and the bugs start eating my roof?
@@PerfectPencil After milling (diy-er) before stacking/drying I use a people-safe borax based solution (Timbor)... haven’t seen evidence of any bugs/critters. Could make salad bowls and such with treated wood whereas some products use toxic (anti-freeze) to penetrate... read suppliers in Australia must disclose such whereas here in US no disclosure.
What language is this
After watching your videos for the past 2 years and learning so much, I decided to purchase a coffee table size slab from Goby and had a bad experience. This piece was delivered to my son in Colorado one year ago. Long story short, my son moved back to So Cal (where I live) and we just started the coffee table project. The slab was supposed to have been kiln dried, but now there’s a crack right down the middle, and it’s showing on both sides. It’s been stored in a climate controlled garage since delivery, and it’s 1.5” thick, so the one year per inch rule is close. I’m not experienced with bow tie inlays, but this piece is definitely a candidate. I’m going to call Goby, but their return policy is only 30 days. Thank you for the information provided in this video. Take care.
These older videos really show how far you've come in just barely 2 years!
That’s all it’s been??
Very helpful! I wish I had seen this video a year ago. I made a desktop and a year after it was made, I had powder beetles hatch and dig their way out of a table completely sealed in epoxy resin for over a year.
Oh no!
I bought a Wagner pinless meter on Amazon almost 10 years ago.its been one of the best investments I’ve made. Anyone regularly using hardwood lumber over 1” thick should pick one up. So much easier and more reliable than pin meters.
That’s awesome to hear Steve! I’ve only had mine a couple months and don’t know how I ever went without it
One video from you it was all i need to subscribe. Thanks for the understandable details and tips.
My first river table is in process (air dried) One slab was twisted and the table cupped at the cnc Router shop. I brought it back, clamped it to the work table and it stabilized. Next I installed c-channels. Hope to get it leveled next week before anything changes. Hope the c-channel
holds.
Very informative; Thank you. So, i completed my first epoxy coffee table top about 1 month ago but just finished adding the legs. I did not verifying dryness or making sure there were no bugs, weren't really sure how.. The logs sat outside for about 6 months, then i cut them into 2'' slabs and let them out in the sun (hardly rained all summer and actually had a mini wild fire in the back area of my community) for another 6months to dry. I have been working on my project (42'' L X 22" W an 1.75" thick) for about 3 months due other obligations. I used Atlantic red cedar fallen from Florence. During the flood coat, i saw 1 bug crawled outta a hole. I anticipated a few coming but had already decided that i was going to encase the wood in epoxy in hopes they'll all die eventually. I haven't notice any warping, bubbles or bugs coming up outta the table but my next one i'll do my diligence. Do you have any recommendations for a chemical solution for treating for bugs? How do I know if I have any moisture issues after project completion?
The table with start warping if you have MC issues. I haven’t used bug killers. But I know you can google stuff that will work fine.
I plan on making an epoxy table for my parents anniversary. I bought a slab that was plenty dry, but didn't pay too much attention to how straight it was. It looked straight until I laid it on my table. And they were milled to 1" thick. So now by the time I get them flat it will be a thin board. But I saw one of your other videos where you made your table bigger and cut strips off to make it look thicker. So I will try that out.
Happy to hear you use your attic for drying. I am going to put a exhaust fan in primarily to get moisture out. A small fan to keep the air moving around the wood. Please give any ideas you may have to help. My attic is above the garage with no ventilation in it now
I would use caution drying wood in an attic. Fair chance it will cause the wood to dry too fast and warp or cup. Applying sanding sealer before putting it in the attic wouldn't hurt. After taking it out of the attic I would definitely leave it in your shop to adjust back to the normal temperature.
I love the videos man. I chemically treat lumber with fire retardant. Thru a lot of study I somehow stumbled onto your videos. And it's made me love what you do. Edit: the moisture meter really is a God send. They are pricey but well worth the investment.
Agreed!
I guessed 10,000 on large and a 100 bucks on the small one, almost got right on😉 good thing I kept a large stack of slabs in an old corn crib from like ten years ago (black walnut,cherry and maple)looks like popularity has driven up prices😃 Work that you do has helped that very “popularity “, so for that and your instructional help- THANK YOU
Thanks don!
Hi Blacktail Studio!
New woodworker here. I recently found your channel and I love the videos you put out. I am especially impressed that a channel with ~1.5M subscribers has the highest consistency when it comes to replying to comments, that least that I've seen.
That, to me, is noble and very admirable!
You've got yourself another subscriber Sir! Thank you for teaching me about live edge woodworking through your videos
I try 🙏
I love this series your doing.
Thanks! Let me know anything you’d like to see addressed
Is there ever a situation that you need to run some type of metal bracket or bar to support the epoxy? I guess it would be more likely with an epoxy edge, but perhaps in a river table?
Great video, as usual. I learned the hard way, kiln drying kills the bugs but not the eggs. Not sure what to do about that. That said, I had only one problem in over 30 years.
Good to know!
I live in Vietnam very humid we have access to some great wood but not to a kiln possibly in Saigon but not where I live. I just buy a lot of wood stick and let it sit around for a number of years thinking about trying to build a solar kiln Will definitely buy a better moisture meter
Good idea!
I love all your videos! Super informative and very inspiring for my own business!
Cam, thanks for the great videos, especially those designed for beginners. Speaking of beginners, one area a little overwhelming is the broad range of possible epoxies available for the different applications. Do you have a guide that directs beginners on which epoxy is best for which applications? Deep pours vs. smaller checks and knots vs. even smaller worm holes and pin holes. I have seen recommendations across many of your videos but would appreciate a summary if one exists. Thank you
You can also treat bugs with steam. A small steam generator piped into a box or bag with your slab in it with draw out or kill the bugs. This method does however set you back some time as the added moisture needs to naturally dissipate
Oh ya??
Because my grandfather got his own wood and had it processed at the sawmill down the street, he stored his wood in his "holy of holies", his workshop!! My grandmother called it his "holy of holies!" LOL 😂 I But his wood was never treated chemically, and he stored it from green wood to wood he could use there. It would be laying across the rafters, he never had to worry about bugs, chipmunks or mice because there was always a cat that stayed there. And she would kill anything. I do remember though, that he would plug up some of the holes on the inside of the wood with bees wax. Suffocating the insects. If anything got out, the cat got it. Best Regards and Stay Safe. From Ontario, Canada, Jenn. 💖 💖 🇨🇦 🌟 🌟 🌟 🌟 🌟
That $90 slab is a killer deal especially if it’s kiln dried
Great videos!!!! If you can please discuss the durability of casting epoxy. I’ve seen other systems that require a top coat of a traditional thin pour epoxy to get some durability and scratch resistance.
Good question!
Great info. I'm really wanting to try this, perhaps a small coffee table or something similar. Thanks again..
Thanks!
Incredible video as always. Thank you tons.
Seemed mostly like an ad for buying the moisture meter he was given. That and incomplete advice on how to store wood in your attic (his suggestion is highly likely going to cause major warping/cupping) and zero advice on how to chemically treat for bugs even though he has a segment on it.
If you’re selling a table to Arizona from PNW do you treat the wood differently? We are very moisture different. You are inspiring!
Thanks for sharing all of these videos. Great content!
Thanks for saying so!
Can you make a video on how you started selling your tables?
Oh maybe!
Those bugs taste great.
thank you Cam
I'm very interested in this series, I've always wanted to try this but wasn't sure about dealing with the bark properly or stabilizing everything, even attaching the slab properly to the legs. I look forward to watching all these episodes. Thanks!
Awesome! Those are great questions that I can definitely answer. Be sure to comment with any other questions you’d like answered too!
This information is cool and all.... now teach me how to get the funds to do all this fun stuff! 🤣🥺
Start small, maybe get yourself a little lathe and spin some pens and bowls. Do some neat epoxy panel pours. That's what I've been doing. Then just slowly but surely collect tools and start building bigger and bigger projects.
Amen to that hahah
@Ob3k probably won't be alive by then... i almost died last month. Wish I had things like this to keep me busy.
Have some faith in your work.
If you think your work is good and will sell.
Practice on little pieces then look to a credit line or a loan to front costs that you can use to cover then pay back and make money on.
Soon after you will have a system where you wont need the credit
Would it help speed up the drying process if I cut the slab in half in advance? Or do you not recommend doing that because of potential warping while it dries?
I'm having problems right now with a coffee table I'm making from Scottish Pine. Fungi has made it a beautiful and interesting project but chasing the rot through the slab is proving to be impossible and I might have to resort to a copper oxychloride bath and hope. I plan to use a clear resin so that you can see into the piece.
Cam, wish this vid had been out a month ago. Just bought two 9' slabs of Elm from a local sawmill. Turns out they are at 32% TMC, didn't have my new Wagner at the time. TOTAL NOOB MISTAKE. At 2" thick it will take years to dry. Trying to find somewhere to get the wood kiln dried but no luck in the DFW TX area. If any of your peeps know where I could get this done I would really appreciate the info.
Great videos Cam, one of my favorite channels!!
I’ve been there! I’m sure you can find someone
Hey Cam! I have a question. I have a 4'x4' 2.5" live edge slab that is at 45%. It was just cut down last month from a 150yr old tree. How do I dry this? I only have one slab, so I can't sticker it with anything. I also don't have a ton of room to dry it laying down in the garage. Will it be ok letting it dry propped up against the wall for a bit, or will it warp? Bugs are not an issue as it was packed in dry ice for 24 hours. I'm not selling this. It will be our own coffee table someday! 🎉
Man, I'd love to have one of those tables in my man-cave one day... one day! Your art is amazing. But wow... $11k for only the wood it's definitely out of my means.
You and me both!
Verry good info , thanx!
Good info as always, but now I gotta watch more actual woodworking for my daily fix.
Oh Thanks!
I am working with a wormy piece of very dry mesquite. My question is do you dig out the worm holes and then fill them and let cure? I am making resin chartcuterie boards.
My question would be. When making a live edge table does one add bracing to keep the table straight. I ve seen some people do it and I ve seen others not do it. So looking forward to the series.
Great question! I’ve done it both ways and come up with a personal rule of thumb. I’ll make sure to add it in the series.
I couldn't find the answer to this, so forgive me if I missed it. How do you find the water or moisture pockets that might be left after KD and then how do you deal with them? Thanks, Thom
What do you use to debark a live edge slab. I remember one of you videos which i can't find now showed a nylon type wheel I believe was in a 4 1/2 angle grinder? Thank you in advance.
Cam, may I suggest another rule?????? Always check the epoxy kits for having the right containers (2 resign, 1 hardener). I received one resign and two hardeners. Ouch!!!!!!! Had to through a nine gallon pour away with wood and forms away.
I’ve heard that before. Brutal!
I'd probably have to sell my kids to pay for something as large as the bigger slab here in the UK and that $90 slab, wow. I'm always envious of the woods available to you guys at the prices you have.
Chris Franklyn I’ve heard this from a number of woodworkers in Europe. Why do you think there is such a price difference?
These guys ship a lot of slabs to Europe. Would probably have to be a big order to justify it. I suppose I’m pretty lucky!
@@CommercialForest Probably multiple reasons. Distance being one, the further something ships the more it's costing with large lumber on a boat. But there's also supply and demand. I always see you guys walk into a home depot or similar and come out with hardwoods. Here, no chance! If there was that demand the big chains would carry it. We get the terrible "banana wood" (pine/fir similar) or if lucky redwood. I think the US has a much bigger sense of making stuff and of course it's a massive market.
I did speak to a local timber yard the other day and got speaking to the owner, so I can order in what I need. Not bad prices for here - but I might have to order a pallet of it if the supplier won't break up an order!
I've got a couple of wood reclamation yards I can haunt too... but that's very much luck what they have that day.
@@BlacktailStudio That's interesting to know though. I'll check it out - could be a case I could do a group buy with other people and split it this end. Thanks.
Chris Franklyn That’s interesting. I just assumed that European countries had a comparable selection... maybe not of North American hardwoods but other local species. Now that I think about it, we had a few people in the UK who were ordering Black Limba boards from us every once in a while. It makes a lot more sense in the context of what you’re telling me. thanks - Steve
Very good info. There are a ton of "custom furniture makers" in my area that could use this info lol. Great video. Got a new sub
Ha! Thanks a lot Adam
I recently got into wood working with the hopes that I will make a desk for myself one day. I have found some really good deals on facebook market place, I got a 12 inch wide by 6 foot long and 2 inch thick slab of black walnut for 20 dollars. perfect for a bench and end table I wanted to try my hand at making.
That’s awesome to hear!
Just bought a 2" slab of beetle kill ash. Lots of holes and a fair amount of soft, rotten wood. Was thinking of doing an epoxy emersion to fill it in and bring stability back to the wood. Open to any suggestions
Seems like a good idea
Hi Cam. Thanks mate this is great. Can I ask how you made your logo on the slab behind you? Looks fantastic and want to do something similar.
I always wondered about cupping and twisting on such wide and large slabs. I heard some people use steel battens... Do you? If so, how do you attach them? Regular wood screws? Lag screws? Polyurethane adhesive? Thanks!
always good stuff thx
Thanks man!
What is the best thicknes of the raw slab? What is the usual thicknes of the finished table? Have you ever made 1 inch thick table? Thank you for the videos, I have learned a lot.
I like 2.5” slabs to finish at 2”
Great content. Go beavers!
No beavs!
After finding bugs in a mantle I installed, I removed it and brought it to a termite control company. They were tenting and fumigating a house in the area. For $20 he put the mantle in the garage while the house was treated. Seems to have killed off the bugs
Oh smart!
I know I am way behind cause I happend to see your videos lake 6 months or so ago and I have try to find resent ones but just can´t
Thanks again for your videos, I really enjoy them and learn a lot. One question I have had at times are related to your sign. I saw you finish it (twice!) and was curious if there was a story behind the creation of it, and the different inlays? I heard you mention the logo is CNC, which makes sense, was curious for the other blocks. Or just a way to deal with defects in simple and creative way?? Thanks! John
Love your videos...
Thanks buddy!
What do you do if you have a piece of cedar already in your house and think it has living bugs?
Can treat with heat or chemicals
I have alot of olive wood I'd like to make table s or something do you have any suggestions or experience with olive wood. I'm in northern California and it's warm some of it is cracking what should I do?
I cut a black cherry burl last month and it is drying in my shed. All of the bark is still on. Should I scrape all of that off then spray for bugs? I don’t want it to crack too much.
I’d let it air dry for a while then use a kiln
No secret word this week? Most of my carpentry has been building scenery for theatrical productions. Sooooo much more forgiving than furniture. Wet wood can still be an issue. I was building a set many years ago with very wet 1x4. Like probably not fully dried and then got rained on 1x4. We got all the flats/ walls framed and skinned in 1 day. We came back the next morning and half of them had disassembled themselves before the glue had dried. Whole wall sections had twisted as they dried overnight. 4’ pieces had cupped nearly 20 degrees. Really terrible day.
This was before I started leaving the Easter eggs 👊
Cam, I would love to hear your top 2-3 wood slab distributors in the U.S. so I could research them and potentially take a trip to go myself!
Goby, hunski, and GL veneer maybe?
Many thanks for this video and all the others that you've made! They're highly insightful, informative and concise.
Question about drying untreated wood slabs in the attic though - How do you go about it to ensure bugs don't then invade your attic space? Like you, I have a hot attic space but have been wary of doing so for that reason. Thanks again!
If it’s hot enough it’ll kill em wherever they are. Still a risk though!
Is your attic really 140? I've got wood drying in my attic right now and it gets to about 110 or maybe 120 I'd guess. Haven't seen any bugs so far but now I'm a bit worried!
theres a place in asheville nc that trying to sell the same size slabs for 1100 and more
Hi I have a couple of questions first of all what is the type of wood that you use to do all your Projects and why you use the type of wood? Thanks
Black walnut often and clients like it
Oh my stars! I've just cut a tree down. I've got adleast 4 slabs more if thinned. You're telling me I gotta wait for it to dry & I gotta kill bugs. I live in the midwest. What's the best way to put them away to dry so they don't warp. And dry sooner then later. Each slap is adleast 5 to 6 inches.
Oh man, that’s probably too thick of slabs. Would take 5 years or more to use one that thick
Hey! Thank you so much for posting this. I'm a beginner and I thought I would get into working with live-edge by trial by fire. I just bought a 2" thick green slab of maple (60"x34") that has not been kiln-dried. I don't have a kiln or a hot attic (thanks to apartment living). I have it sitting horizontally on a coffee table in my living room, which is fairly dry. My hope is that I can let it air dry for a couple years and any wood-boring insects will die. If that sounds crazy, let me know!
They won’t die without heat or chemicals unfortunately
@@BlacktailStudio ah, thank you - I will look into chemical treating the wood then! Edit: I am actually going to try and build a quick kiln out of a portable heater, foam insulation and duct tape. Let's hope this works!
Good topic cam
Thanks Chris
I've been trying to find a walnut slab for my coffee table project and I was surprised how inflated the prices are, slab similar to that $90 one will cost you $200> $300 if you don't have friends in a sawmill
I’m just a client that’s friendly with them. No special pricing on that slab.
@@BlacktailStudio do you recommend clamping the slab(s) ,pressing them firmly against the bottom of the form so they don't float? I saw other guys here on YT doing that
Ya, but just snug. Needs to more when the epoxy shrinks as it cures.
Soapy water will drive out any bugs. Will this have any effect on the wood? Maybe just inject in any voids in the wood.
Ya, need to get the soap out before working on it
Hello, I love your videos and they have helped me with my projects. I have a Parota slab that I'm working with and it has quite a bit of bug holes in the sapwood (the white part) and the sapwood is pretty soft. Can I still use this or will I have to remove the sapwood?
Hi cam I'm planning on making a live edge desk for my major project and I am getting some camphor slabs made up from a large log I've been watching your videos and like your black metal legs that you use but I am only allowed to use wood do you have any ideas of a way to make the same look but with timber. thanks
I had a 65-ft red oak tree in my back yard, that we had cut down last week. We sealed the ends, & were so excited to do some woodworking projects w/this amazing wood----then we heard the 1-inch-to-1-year rule. :( Is there any way to dry this stuff faster? Do kilns exist that will dry my wood, after I cut it into smaller sections?
For sure. Drying can be hard to do right. But you can vacuum kiln or RF kiln in a few weeks
I’m currently looking to buy a new sander. Looking at the Festool Rotex 150 because I plan on doing a lot of slab work. Do you recommend this or do you still think the ETS EC150 is better? I’m looking for an all around sander. Finish and for cleaning up slabs and marks from the router after Levelling. Second question is you recommend Klingspor and Mirka sanding discs. Can you add a link to where you get yours currently? Thank you in advance, Love your channel and all your work.
I’m looking to buy my first live edge slab for a computer desk but I don’t want to over pay
Question...I am preparing a maple slab to be used as a river table, I plan on using a deep pour epoxy along with a table top finish.
My question is that because I do not have access to a planer or a big drum sander I am doing my best to get both sides flat and parallel with a belt sander. But, reality dictates it wont be perfect which will result in a lot of wasted epoxy under the slab, so I see two options:
1. Place a silicon bead around the bottom of the slab to control bleeding under the slab.
Or
2. "Float" the slab on a thin layer of table top, then once hard, scuff and pour the deep pour epoxy per normal process.
Which is preferred/recommended for epoxies.
Not certain about the points made but ,if anyone else wants to learn about primal survivor how to build a shelter try Franaar Escape Death Formula (do a google search )?
Ive heard some great things about it and my cousin got great results with it.
I let the epoxy flow under to get a flat bottom. The caulk underneath could work. I’ve done it. Makes a mess though.
@@BlacktailStudio , thanks.
My $1200 slab came with a free live carpenter bee family :D
I purchased an Ash slab that had lots of I guess bug trails filled with hard powdered sawdust I guess I spent several hours digging out the dust with my flex cable grinder with a ball bit and now have lots of trenches on the slab. Any thoughts on how to finish out. I thought maybe filling with a different color epoxy and let them cure and sand down before filling the mold with the main epoxy pour.
Ya, I think that should work!
Thanks so much for your advice!! Very well done! I'm kind of UA-cam challenged so please forgive me, but i can't find the rest of your Beginners series - did I miss the link on your page?
Sorry! This was the first one. You can subscribe for updates when I post more though. Or sign up on my website mailing list.
I also can’t find the next video about choosing slabs to purchase - where is that video, please?
Hi! I am working on a live edge dining table and unsurprisingly there are bug holes in the outer inch or inch and a half of the slab. I’m planning to finish with Rubio monocoat and filling some crack with epoxy. How do you advise dealing with the bug holes? The dimensions of the finished table would be smaller than I’d like if I tried to remove enough material to eliminate the holes. Thinking about filling them with epoxy but not sure if that’s a good idea. I would greatly appreciate any advice you can offer. Thanks!
Might be a longer conversation than I can have here
Great tips, thanks so much for sharing!!...Bruce
Thanks Bruce!
Great video! Thank you. Do you measure the moisture levels of your customer's space where they will keep their tables before you start to work?
Na, I have a good idea of different regions
Can’t guess on the giant slab. I don’t know what kind of wood it is. I’ve purchased very nice large slabs from $800 to $4,000. Different woods and thicknesses, though. I have had ambrosia larvae continue to bore in scrap maple, but not in finished pieces.
Good to know!
I absolutely love your videos and was hoping to start making some live-edge tables of my own. How do you recommend finding clients? I don't want to spend a fortune on epoxy and then not have anyone buy it, but I can't seem to find a good way to attract clients. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Keep up the good work!
I definitely don’t recommend spending a bunch on materials without it being sold. I’d start making stuff for yourself and family/friends to build a portfolio. See if they can at least cover materials. Then take commissions from there.
I have a question about finding wood. I can get tons of live edge wood here cheap, but after watching your video, I’m a little concerned about bugs. Is there anything about cold treating to kill the bugs? It’s gets to -35°C in the winter (and in my garage). We never have an issue with pine Beatles as they don’t survive here,... just curious if you think I should still find someplace to have it kiln dried?
Another question,... have you tried using softer wood such as pine or cedar, and thoughts on those?
Cold will kill em too. I’d think that’s gotta be cold enough. And don’t use much softwoods
Hi Cam,
I am really enjoying your videos. I watch a lot of woodworking videos but I’ve never replied back to the author until now. Your explanations with intricate detail are so helpful. You mentioned in this version that you had a follow up video to discuss how to buy slabs. But I can’t find it. Can you give me the exact title so I can do a search? Thank you.
It’s just just a blog so far! Never got to make the video
Thanks you. I will listen to it. Can you please direct me to where I can find your blog?
What’s a good thickness of walnut slab for a dining room table? 2.5”-3”?
Ya, I’d start with one 2-3”. Finish 1.75 to 2.5
Thank you for the great video! Very helpful. I have a question. I really enjoy cutting pieces with a chainsaw, and I have the opportunity to cut a eucalyptus log here in Southern California that has been used as a bench - on the ground for many years. Do logs lose moisture and dry adequately on the ground, or are they still moist inside when cut. Is this wood considered green, and can it be kiln-dried? Thank you so much
A whole log doesn’t really dry
Ur merch is kinda cool 😎
Oh thanks!
Great video. Very informative. I just milled some 2 1/2" redwood slabs from my property that I was hoping to use for a bar top on a outdoor kitchen unit I will be building next year on my deck. Just wondering with the pieces being outside in heat and cold is there different drying times I should be looking at or still want down to the 9,10 range on a moisture meter?
I’d say that mc should be good. 1/2” seems really thin though
Why is the bark and softwood edges so important to get rid of if it is going to be encased in epoxy?
Basically, the cleaner, the better. You want good clean wood to bond to. Can’t be sure if epoxy will totally seem behind the bark. If it doesn’t and the bark falls off, the epoxy falls off.
I guessed £10k and £100, but I don't think I can claim kudos as I'm commenting now the video has ended. But I pinkie promise!
That’s pretty good! Even for pounds 😉
Great video :)
Thanks Jake!
Hi, I am from India. I recently purchased two blocks of wood from a tree fallen close to my home. I am new to wood working and wanted to create resin tables out of them.
Would the logs be live would?
Should the table be made with or without the bark?
Any other things to consider as a first project?
No bark! And I’d watch my other videos. I give step by step guides
@@BlacktailStudio thank you. Yes I have been watching some of your videos. I will be starting with my project in a month. Could you guide me with the tools I will be requiring? It would be great if we could connect over mail.
Great videos, I love you commentaries. Q, what kind of stains are you using?
I never stain! Find the wood that is the color you want to begin. And thanks so much!
Did he ever do that follow up video? I don't see anything matching that description on the channel.
I did blogs instead
@@BlacktailStudio Gotcha!
A meter sliding along the surface reads the moisture 3/4" in? That sounds like some sort of black magic....
Might as well be magic to me! I’d never figure it out
Where in PDX do you buy your live edge slabs? I live in Portland and I am thinking of making a live edge hallway table.
Goby walnut
I want to make a epoxy dinning table for myself from which I can remove the top and hang it on the wall, similar to what is on background of this video
Whoa! That would be wild!
@@BlacktailStudio I don't have dedicated space for dinning table so I have to make it detachable and foldable legs. Do you have any suggestions?
So I have this wood collection and with winter around the corner I was wondering if my wood collection would still dry the same and be fine if it was stored in a barn that has no heat but blocks out the snow do you think it would still dry the same and everything or does it need to be in a heated place or something?
Also it does have cement if that helps any
Heat helps, but barn is great
I just buy my slabs locally!