Balance A Tire The Better Way. Free Wheel Balancer Mods Makes It 100x More Accurate For $0. PT 1
Вставка
- Опубліковано 21 вер 2021
- PART 2 LASER MOD • balance a tire DIY usi... . Modifying For Free a Portable Bubble tire balancer sold at harbor freight and amazon you need to watch this video. tear down and diagnosing how it works and Modifying Tire wheel Balancer Portable Bubble Modification / hacks In Making It 100x More Accurate.
must have for a shade tree mechanic who work on cars, trucks
change your winter tires yourself or any tires that need a changing and balance them yourself professionally
next project: working on replacing the bubble hardware with a laser....DONE
LASER MOD • balance a tire DIY usi...
Tire,wheel,Balance,Bubble,Portable,amazon,harbor freight,cars,trucks,diy,SHAKING,SPEED,WEIGHTS,WHEEL WEIGHTS,mechanic,TIRES,GARAGE,winter,summer,tires,balance tires,free,cheap - Авто та транспорт
I just now made the modification to my bubble balancer. I also did drill out the hole a little bigger and literally made a massive improvement and took me about 15min. Thank You !!
I just bought one of the red ones with that same sticker on it from amazon a few weeks ago. The offshore people must have gotten tired of people whining about these things being junk out of the box because the one I bought will wobble for a week with no mods. The pin and socket are corrected for proper functions. Now I'm going to find your laser video. Sounds cool!
I just bought this balancer and did my wife's snow tires... you can clearly see the balancer doesn't have the movement or sensitivity it should. I figured a youtuber would have the answer. Thank you! I will be drilling out for my next balance.
yup, and if u use a laser its that much more accurate that its actually a pita to use to do the job, or its just my ocd, idk. im working on the vid as we speak with how to implement the mod and how to use it but just going to upload vid on the mod itself and not in its use.
Just tried the hole widening mod. No need to file the tip. The tool was basically useless prior to this modification and now its fully functional. Thank you for sharing your R&D and posting this video.
An excellent modification that costs nothing, requires no special tools and can be done in seconds.
👌
agreed, widening the hole is all she needed
@@diyvinny6300 Same here, Went from stiff to free floating with simply drilling down the hole
Thanks for sharing. Widening the hole is easiest and best mod. Just did it to mine and balanced one of my snow tires.
You are the only person who shows me to punch the core out, Thanks. The only difference is that after I had widened the hole I put it in a cordless drill as a drill bit and grinding on the pin together until the point touched the bottom
Good info here. Back in the 70s we used an Atlas bubble balancer similar to the M-60. We used the Y method where the weights are split away from the low point till it balances. Never had a customer complaint. I still use that method today with good results.
Can I find out how to do the Y method online or on UA-cam? I think I know what you're saying but I'm not sure.
@@bodeine454 just search youtube and found this: ua-cam.com/video/w_mH9qCceMA/v-deo.html
Sixtyfiveford
It's engineered that way for a reason. It's not meant to touch the bottom of the hole. If it did and wasn't touching the sides,you'd never know if the pin was centered and it would be impossible to balance a tire with it. It's meant to sit on the face of that hole without touching the bottom of the whole to allow the thing to move around on the pin and that ensures it is perfectly centered.
@kimokahikolekalihi I agree, it's engineered that way for a reason. One a wheel is on there it moves around easily. Adding some thin grease will help with initial bubble leveling
I too thought about that as well??...and realized that unless the bottomed out pin point seats in a perfectly centered inner hole that it would NOT be centered accurate, so I used a Dremel with a polishing wheel and a polishing nub with some fine rouge compound and then polished the pin and the ID and edge of the hole and it WORKED!!...It reduced the friction between the Pin and the hole to where it performed like this dudes mod, so unless you have a absolutely centered inner hole of the hole, your never gonna have true center!!...Instead of grease, I used something called Ultra Slick...It's an engine assembly lube made by Permatex...Item# 81950... that's incredibly slick reducing friction better than anything else, only need 1 drop and it wont get as stiff like grease especially when its below 65 degrees F and is slicker than water based personal lube...After I did this mod I rebalanced all my tires and this cheap azz 49$ balancer completely zero'd out ALL the VIBRATION!!
The pin will most certainly "find center" because the bottom the hole isn't flat, it's conical.....basic physics.
Also, may help you understand if you look up the patent....the pin has a "sharper" point than the hole, the difference in angle allows movement while still finding absolute center.
I just got the red base version a couple days ago! Before I even use it, I'm totally knocking that center bushing out, then making another one out of some drill stock with a shallower hole. Of course, I have a lathe, so it's pretty easy!
Make a bunch of them and sell them! Might make a nice side hustle.
just so you aware, as a tire technician myself having worked in a tire shop, they teach us that usually on most tires there's supposed to be 2 colored dots, a yellow and red, the yellow dot (representing the tires lightest weight point) should be lined up beside the valve stem and the red dot opposite side of the tire across from the valve stem the reason for this is because, 1, your valve stem adds weight to the side if the rim it's on and makes enough difference that it'll throw off the balance and 2, the red dot symbolizes the heaviest point of that tire so lining the red dot on the opposite side of the rim from the valve stem counter balances the weight so by installation its as close to balance as possible without the weights added, the weights added are only to supplementary zero in the overall tire/rim assembly, ei, a wheels overall balance, however there is a difference between static balance and dynamic balance, in the older days where all the shops did was static balance was fine for those wheels because they were not radial tires but now with new tires, all being made radial, when you static balance your only accounting for the up and down motion not the side to side motion and thus if the radial motion is not balanced you'll always have vibration regardless of what you do. not to mention cuping, and uneven wear, if you have cuping or uneven wear no amount of balancing will solve that and you'll be left with vibration regardless of how balance the overall wheel is both dynamically and statically just some info to consider with the balancing your doing, I'm sure your probably aware of all that but figured just in case you weren't I'd share! hope it helps and hope the balancing method you use works out awesome!
thx for your input. but you can see the dots on my tire why are the yellow and red dot right beside each other if they represent the heaviest and lightest portion of the tire. vibration is much better now after my diy balancing, vibration starts closer to 130km/hr but b4 it started b4 120km/hr, i can live with it as i barely go past 120. could be something wrong with the tires and/or rim but for now its much better on the highway
@@diyvinny6300 yes I did notice the yellow dot beside the red, haven't seen that before to be honest, normally their on complete opposite sides of the tire from each other, mightve been a manufacturing mistake not sure, and awesome great to hear! Normally if the shop is dead I can just bring my own vehicle in to do my own changeovers and balancing but it's not currently an option and I don't really want to wait since I'm planning on changing over my rears to all terrains so I was thinking I'd buy one of these static balancers and do it that way, the way I see it at this point any balancing wether static or dynamic is better than no balancing so ill have to keep your mods in mind especially if they solved your vibrations then definitely worth the work of the mods!!! Thanks for your videos tho great explanation and details!
Kyle, you are partially correct. Yellow dot is the lightest portion of the tire. However, the red dot is NOT the heaviest portion. It doesn't even have anything to do with weight. It marks the HIGHEST spot on the tire. Tires (and wheels) are not perfectly round so the red indicates the highest spot. If your wheel has a white spot painted on it, the red spot lines up with the white dot. If not, the red dot will line up with the valve stem.
If your tire only has a yellow dot, it lines up with the valve stem. If the tire has both, the red dot takes precedence over the yellow dot. The reason being is that you can correct weight imbalance in the tire with balancing, while you cannot correct for roundness imperfections of the tire without shaving it.
I know its not popular for the first time I used balance bead’s- I’m never going back to weight - yes you get a little shimmy when you start out but it balances quickly . And my tread ware last longer. As tires ware balance changes beads keep adjusting. Have not ran into a problem yet
@@jimfields9217dont the beads hurt the tpms?
I just got one of these balances and tried to use it. Did not like. Now I’m gonna modify that sucker. Great advice. Just subscribed!
great idea, cant wait to see how u adapt a laser to it
Bought one last week, and it 'sticked', not pleasant to work with. A bit disappointing. I had to do 3 more tires today, so roaming around on UA-cam looking for inspiration I opted for this simple modification. Thanks a lot for this inspiring video. I unscrewed the bubble and then I gently hammered the top metal piece out from the bottom. Then I inserted the piece upside down about 5 mm on top to have a better centre and stability and grip whilst drilling. Started with a 4 mm bit, then 5, then 6, up to 8 mm. The insert on mine is quite a hard steel, so I used drilling oil. It worked fine with a cordless drill, no lathe required.
Now the balancer is working like it should.... and yes!, it wobbles!
gonna try this.once i buy one
Thanks! I've been mounting my own tires for years, but never had a way to balance them. I just ordered one and I am going to use the drill only method for modification.
It's possible with wet tires ,that have a different tread pattern , & more,or less grip to the road ,the balance could feel better by the tires themselves holding the steering joints tighter. In other words the "toe in " specification could be helping the front end from shaking. The other thing that might not be picked up by a tire installer, is some sort of deformation that occurs with speed .(computer balancer's spin at a low rpm ).. You may be able to fine an alignment shop that balances tires on the vehicle ,(these units usually spin the tire much faster )..Hope that helps .Yup I got the same balancer, & did similar mods . & even moved the balance point up with a spacer under the cone , with limited results..
I’m going to have a machinist friend make me a new center pivot point with a larger hole out of hardened steel, that should make it 10 times better! Thanks for the ideas and video!
good work brother
That's the mod I made, and I touched up the center of the hole where the point sits with a center drill in the lathe. Very much more accurate.
i dont know why they dont manufacture it this way as its simple to do at the factory. btw adding the laser mod is so much better than trying to use the bubble as the level reference point. it even adds more precision and visually easier to read
this makes sense, factory should consider changing it. laser? when?
I like the mod with the 1.5 inch chromoly ball bearing.
cool, my freind has one of those, got to tell him about this vid
thx
I just did stock pin, drilled hole. There is a lot more movement and it's more sensitive. I went from never getting repeatable results to repeatable about half the time. I don't know. I probly need a vintage Coats or a spin balancer.
As others have said, drilling in a lathe would work best. Might I add, instead of using a drill bit use a precision counter sink to get as close as possible to a dead center pin point recess for the pin to pivot in.
You had lined up the RED DOT with the air valve you would have got it balanced. The RED DOT is the Highest part of the tire and the the YELLOW DOT is the heaviest part of the tire. If there is both dots on your tire,.. the RED DOT is used over the YELLOW DOT every time. it seems the shop that installed your wheels on the rims did not do it do that when they were installed.
i didnt mount the tires, 2 mechanics didnt bother to line it up
I like your mods to the balancer good idea. Sounds like your tire shop is lazzy i have had the same problem a good shop will break the bead and rotate the tire till it can be balanced. Seems like its harder and harder to find a shop thats not lazzy. Thank you for the ideas been thinking of building a balancer and the nail punch would be the perfect piviot point and i have a bunch of them. Have a good day and thank you again!!!!!!!!
Good information, later on in the video you stated that 2 Tire Shops made claims of it's either the wheels or the tires. Here is what is absolutely hilarious about those analogies; the 2 Tire Shops never even recognized that the (generally) yellow/white circle on the tires (from the manufacturer) needs to be at the location of the valve-stem location to be at the nearest point of not needing to be balanced at all. But I guess they (the 2 tire Shops) are so good that they have X-Ray vision. Pop the beads loose on the tires and shift the tires on the rims and put the (generally) yellow/white circle on the tires (from the manufacturer) at the location of the valve-stem location and rebalance. Of course, if you already have had extensive wear on the tires and there are already any flat spot deviations on the tires; that will also affect the balance actions as well. When tires are new, they should always be placed at the (generally) yellow/white circle on the tires (from the manufacturer) needs to be at the location of the valve-stem location. It is there for a reason.
its on my todo list, but i did get a better balance from my diy compared to the shops, i rarely go past 130km/hr, 80mph, as thats where i start feeling vibration but i juust havent gotten around to it yet
Thanks for the video. Did you mount the weight inner and outer rim or just outer rim?
inner and outer
I grew up watching the alignment guy do dynamic balancing of tires when they were mounted on the car. This was perhaps the best way to completely balance the cars rotating mass. It's not done anymore.
In my experience the hole on these balancers is not always precisely centered to begin with. And that's a bigger issue. Even 1/256" out of center with 20-30lbs wheel on the balancer will throw it out by 1/4oz. It's easy to check, so when you put weights on the tire to make bubble perfectly in the center, lift the tire off the balancer (don't spin tire on the balancer!), keep the balancer head in the same position don't spin it, then turn the tire 180 degree and put it back on - most likely it will be out of balance again. Put new weights to re-balance placing weights in the same location where previous weights were - this time it will be a bit different weight to make bubble in the center again. The correct weight will be sum of two divided by two. For example first attempt was 1/2oz, second attempt after rotating tire was 1oz, so your final weight will be 3/4oz. Now, with 3/4oz on, re-adjust the bubble to bring it into the center, lift the tire, turn it 180 degree and watch the bubble remains in the center to confirm the tire is correctly balanced. Now your bubble is adjusted to balance rest of the tires of this same(!) set. Keep the balancer head in the same position for the current balance session. For different set of tires the bubble will need to be re-adjusted again, since for the off-centered balancer with different wheel on it will move center of gravity again. This method also does not require to level the base. Hope it helps. I can see why so many have bad luck with this tool - because they assume it is precisely machined and balanced on its own, yet they wonder why every time they put the tire on the balancer it shows different balance. I'm not a youtuber, may be someone can put up a video about it eventually.
As it goes for this video - not sure whatever good this guy did - but he might contribute more into out-of-center issue by unevenly re-shaping the pin and the hole. I just slightly hit the pole with hand couple times to stabilize the balancer with wheel on it to help it to find it's true balance and effectively address the friction issue.
I can do 200km/h on the track like a breeze not needing fancy electronic balancers.
I feel like I could use your method to balance the leveler to a set of wheels, then use some weights stuck on the balancer to balance the balancer permanently..
Perfect
I gave up with the HF balancer after getting results like you describe. It is so full of problems
ua-cam.com/video/an6sURvUhBA/v-deo.html
I developed 2 alternate methods of balancing, this one is my favorite.
ua-cam.com/video/JvN4i-qJqMs/v-deo.html
@@BigBrotherIsTooBig Not necessary. The balancer has three adjuster screws to center the bubble.
The pivot point has to be modified as standard the sensitivity is terrible. I knocked the bush out below the bubble and screwed in a stainless steel bolt with a concave head. Works great, very sensitive and balanced tires with no problems. Thanks for the info in your video.
can you share more details maybe post a vid as well and send me a link ty
When I was a kid the bubble balancers were much more touchier than these that we get from Amazon. I noticed that when putting the top on mine. It felt too tight enough. Like a lock nut. It looked similar , but didn't act the similarly.
As Donald Trump said:
"China! China! China!
And the sucker Americans keep buying their trash.
I have olde bubble balancer back in 1960, more accurate than today’s. Sucks wheel center hole don’t fit have to use new ones.. hate those… I already drilled the pivotal point wider. Used my common sense if tire well balanced by using the “Y” system. Had no issues since.
4:30 maybe an easier solution would be to plug the hole a bit or to grind down the ring around the hole
Was it manufacture in IMHO California 😂.
I just bought this bubble balanced and the manual tire changer which come next week. I hope I don’t run into this issue. Something tells me I will.
Did you ever rotate tyre on rim so red/yel dot was at valve-stem? Did it reduce amount of weight needed?
no i have not, its been fine now @130km/hr
Still need to expose the cone exactly in the center of the wheel hole. The moving part with springs must be removed it moves diferent sides and creates disbalance.
The mass of the wheel on the balancer will negate the slight friction of the pivot pin you show when unloaded
if the pin was sitting on its tip but its not, u can clearly see that motion is being negated even when loaded, the hole in the bushing is to small for the pointed tip
What size drill bit did you use? How deep did you drill? Has anyone tried a countersink?
cant remember size, but fairly big iirc 1/2", i think its in the vid, viewers have posted in the comments their technique of drilling out the hole, some even using a lathe and or drill press, ymmv
Just put a countersink tool into the aluminium part, open it up a little bit
Have you heard of balancing beads? They dynamically self balance and users from motorcyclists to semi-truck drivers claim huge differences in reduced vibrations.
I used a bubble balancer back in the 80s. There ok kinda but not really. Most tires nowadays will vibrate doing a static balance unlike old byis ply tires of yesteryear.
Instead of making the hole bigger you could make an insert. You can easily make a concave in a steelrods end with your drill and a dremel.
Most tire companies doesnt tell what the coloured dots are for, which they should because it differs.
Some do. Yokohama says the red dot is the highest spot on the tire, and it should be matched to the lowest spot on the rim to get a cirkular wheel. Lucky you if your lowest spot on the rim is marked.
But being the highest spot on the tire, it is also most likely the heaviest , when the wheel starts turning. Bridgestone says the red dot is the heavy spot.
The yellow dot is the lightest spot on the tire and should be placed by the valvestem.
So;
Red dot first choice, by a mark in your rim. Second, furthest away from valve stem.
Yellow dot, by valvestem, if you dont have red dots.
steelrods? the insert is concave since thats the the drill bits profile
Make it spherical, 8-10mm radius. Smaller radius, 3-4 ,convex, on top of the column.
Conclusion: Simply drilling out the hole inside the balancer does the trick, because a standard drill bit will leave a 130° cone shapd hole.
It would be even better to use a steel insert (bolt ?) fixed in the drilled hole, and then drill out the head of the bolt to get the same result.
Except the steel bolt will last a lot longer than the stock alu insert.
With this modifications you should not need to level the base, provided the balancer is adjusted correctly.
V? is it enough to just drill the hole? and were you happy with the balance job you did?
yes, and after rebalancing my tires myself they were much better that what tire shop done b4, i can go faster on highway than b4. but patience and continually checking your balance points needed for a good job. make sure u read about placement of weights, not as straight forward as i had thought
is it possible to just jbweld a laser on the bubble? and leave the batteries in
@@toupsclassroomtoupsclassro9557 i would say yes, but u still need to hack the switch
You punched out the center off camera we could not see it. Did you punch from the top downward or punch from the inside upward ? Also you drilled off camera did you drill the punched center with a 3/8 bit if so how deep ?
in the vid i showed from the top (unit in its normal orientation as when on the pole) pushing down the bushing and it will pop out from underneath.
yes i used 3/8 as stated in vid but u can use either a little smaller or larger bit. i went down just enough maybe a 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch. vid shows what it looked like after drilling it out, do a little at a time would be my best advice
@@diyvinny6300 ...To put back the bushing do you push it back from underneath back up?
@@thewishmastur yes, opposite of removal, some grease in hole wouldnt hurt for it to make it easier to slide back in
@@diyvinny6300 ...for drilling did you use a drill press or a portable hand drill? Thx.
@@thewishmastur hand drill
Hello man, thank you for this good tip, i put in reply some instruction that i believe is from some vintage bubble balancer, maybe it's usefull.
next project: working on replacing the bubble hardware with a laser....DONE!
LASER MOD ua-cam.com/video/nTZ5GHV8t5g/v-deo.html
Why not just put the wheel backwards on the balancer so it's easier to place weights?
These balancers will only balance static, not dynamic. They work well on narrower tires but the wider you get the more imbalance there is between the front and back of the wheel. To remove that you need a dynamic balancer.
i get that, but when u pay and not getting the results expected and getting responses that it must be something else as the fault, desperate measures were taken, and those measures acheieved better results than the ones done by pros on a dynamic balancer, but not yet perfect
@@diyvinny6300 Good point. You could do what I did and buy a dynamic balancer. I found an Accuturn balancer from a shop that was closing for $250.00. I have two collector cars and five drivers in the family, so it's paid for itself quickly. Plus I do other people's cars and they pay. I also picked up a Coats 1010 for $85.00, which makes mounting/dismounting easy.
flat steel plate over the hole, ballbearing on top the pole, swing for days
You're suspension can also just not like the tread on those tires or the tires actually have flaws in it.
agreed, but i did get better results after i diy'd the balance
I see no need to totally build a new center bushing. I pressed the one out that came with the balancer and opened up the hole with a 7/32 drill bit down to the bottom of the existing hole. The factory hole acts better than a center drill for aligning the larger drill bit and no greater precision is needed for this tools intended use. Balancing a tire is not a task that demands extreme precision.
If you widen the hole....am I right in thinking the is not way of knowing if the tip is in the center of the pivot point.
Has anybody tried to use the balance rig as delivered.
I mean does it really matter if its sitting on the shoulder.....I agree it dont sound right......but maybe its accurate enough.
i did use as delivered, thats why i made this video
I think i'll just drill out that hole, then cut off the back of an old drill bit that is useless for making holes and glue it up in there.
Where is the laser part video?
its actually done but not sure how to end it, its actually very sensitive to any movement and hard to replicate results and not sure why that is. so i might post the mod and let viewers comment on why i cant replicate the results of balanced tires. need to film one more part but weather got too cold all of a sudden
AM GOING TO MAKE A NEW PIVOT MARK WITH A SHARP STEEL PUNCH BEFORE ADDING THE ROUND PIC OF HARD METAL OUT OF A LEAF TRUCK SPRING,,, AND AM PUNTING IN A NEW PIVOT PIN AM MAKING OUT OF A POWER SAW FILE SHARPENED WITH MY HOME MADE BIT SHARPENER
You are wrong about the drilling out the hole. Mine was bought about the same time as yours and it was made of steel and if you don’t get the hole drilled out in the first time you probably won’t get any farther than that because you have hardened the metal and you will just burn up the drill bits , I know for sure because it happened to me so you have to change the pin on the shaft And it can’t be a point , it has to rounded over because the spot you tried to drill was almost flat.
IF YOU PUT THE RED DOT LINED UP WITH THE VALVE STEM, YOU WOULDENT NEED ANY WAITS...
that was my next option but the drivability has greatly improved since doing my diy balancing that i just never got around to it
Thanks, he talks so slow though, play at 2x speed 😂
ya, since my stroke ive never been the same
@@diyvinny6300 that explains it! Hope you have good health
YOU NEED TO MAKE THE PIVOT MARK BEFORE ADDING THE PLATE TO THE CONE, AND THIS PIVOT MARK NEEDS TO BE IN THE CENTRE OF THE CONE,,AM TAKING ALL THAT OLD CHICKEN FEATHER OUT IT'S BUTTER MILK PORED IN A BUSHING WITH A LITTEL CREAM HARDNER ADDED
The harbor freight balancer is a piece of junk without this video modification. Can't believe they manufacture and sell it as it is.
The tire you demonstrated on was mounted incorrectly…!!! The red dot should be at the valve stem position…
If they mounted them properly…, nevermind you already know…, LOL
Don't say IMHO. You're stating facts! Whom ever designed the original f---ed up!
The manufacturer must have gone out of their way to hire complete moron engineers. What an embarrassment. I would give them some benefit of the doubt, but that's way past total suck.
What do you think of the videos that show how badly a bubble balancer works after you put it on a machine that does dynamic balancing on both planes compared to you doing only 1? I feel bad for anyone that thinks this is a viable option for modern cars that go faster than farm truck speeds
like i said in the video, 2 mechanics couldnt get it balanced using a dynamic balancer, with my modded balancer i got to a higher speed b4 noticing balance issues
That’s because they either have machines that aren’t calibrated or are installed wrong or they don’t know what they are doing or any combo of those problems. Believe what you want but you’d get laughed out of a shop that has the right equipment. Most shops have techs that don’t know how to use computer balancers or they have installation issues. Dynamically balanced wheels are always the best
@@mark-ui8lu agreed but after trying a couple of mechanics with their "pro" balancers and blaming trucks suspension for balancing issues even though my winter tires have no problems. im not going to keep paying for a supposedly simple job just to go back and complain. fyi, my diy static job came out better than theirs, issues start after 130km/hr , 80mph, which i dont normally go that fast. ive balanced my sons car tires after installing them on rims and no issues at all at high speeds. static might not be the best method but it gets the job done to be "good enough" as to not deal with mechanics
@@diyvinny6300 I do all my own work whenever possible exactly for this reason. It's very difficult to find a mechanic at a reasonable price that you can trust 100%. The tyre shops around here are mostly staffed by very young guys who don't make much attempt at being professional.
this shit does not work
Maybe you just shouldn't be driving an SUV with inexpensive tires at almost 90 MPH.
doesnt explaqin why 2 different pro balancing jobs didnt work, fyi , theyre not some cheap chineseium tires for which i would then agree with ur comments
@@diyvinny6300 But they are Hankook Dynapro HT. A light truck/SUV tire. S or maybe T rated at best. You just can't really expect a perfectly smooth ride at high speeds in an SUV with that tire. If you want to drive that fast (I wouldn't suggest it) get some higher rated better tires.
@@SuperUncleRyan 90mph is not formula one racing speeds, fyi my cheap winter tires have no vibration at 90mph. my diy job got better results than the ones done on tire machines.....just saying. im tired of paying for crap results hence my diy nature
Why would anybody want to Bubble Balance Tires TODAY It's Garbage compared to Computer Balance !!!
if u had actually watched the video u would know why
It's amazing these people are so ignorant to dynamic balancing. This is not a viable method anymore nor has it been for many many years. Good for farm trucks maybe.
It's mazing that this tool could and did balance my tires better than a tire shop did. It's all in how to use a tool.
It’s not on how you use the tool. This tool is not capable of doing a dynamic balance. Get that through your head dummy. OK you had a bad experience at the tire shop but this tool is not better than a machine that does dynamic balancing. You only get away with it because you drive slow and on tall tires. Try this with run flats at 120 it won’t do a good job then Bub
Dynamic balancing is only as good as person using the tool. I've had MANY wheels come out wobbling from shops using dynamic balancers. So many that I do what Vinny does and balance all my own wheels @ home with bubble balancer.
My dynamic balanced new tires done by a pro…shake so badly. It’s no joke….I’ll try this method.