People used to make fun one for leaving the 2nd ring out and on an FE 6.54 rods. And it ran great with a moly top ring and the oil rings had a link cut off. You would never know! The power was nuts! I used a torque wrench and it took 10 ft lbs to turn it. People said it wouldn’t live. It is still alive in a 65 Galaxie with 4.33 gears and I built it in 2000. A 394 ci 390. Never pinged at 11 I ran 93. it is up to 11:1 with thin gaskets . The pistons are forged flat tops out. of the hole and with the gaskets it was .034 quench. I opened the pocket from the plug around the 2.06 intakes . I wish I could afford a set of Trick Flows for it! I am legally blind and had to give up my license. I still love working on engines! That 394 ci FE hauls butt, and that was 2000 , it gets better with time. Leaving the 2nd ring made the big difference. And using 360 truck rods 6.54 vs 6.48 made a difference. A nice tight 11:1 and no oil burning no pinging. I need to get a roller cam in there I have the roller lifters. I want 230@.050 .550 and 110. I run the same top tier 93 Phillips 66 that I run in our 2022 Edge ST 164 V6 that’s twin turbo and makes 2.5 hp per cube. The 394 is at 17 initial and 20 centrifugal for 37 no VA, and the Mr Gasket springs all in by 2400, a 2800 rpm stall, that locks at 3200 with 4.33s.
Sad kids today don't want to get dirty and have lots of pride in something they've built=confident and knowledge. Thanks for sharing the wisdom you worked so hard to deserves respect
I want to, but almost no old timers are teaching their knowledge to the next generation. I have tried to get in contact with people who has the knowledge for years upon years, but always get rejected or blown off in the end. Such a shame.
@@TheRealEvilSink you have work for the knowledge as everyone else has done. There is nothing free . That's always has worked 👍🇺🇸💯❤️ not trying ybe demeaning if someone gives you something it is very easy to forget or toss away. If you earn it very easy to remember it👍
Not me - built a little 355 with my son, rod stretch and all. Doing=confidence, and that's very important for all young men. Also, its a shame to know something and not pass it on.
I'm running a 406 SBC, 4.155" bore, with J&E forged pistons, at 0.030" quench, Canfield 215cc heads, with 10.7:1 compression,, 251/251 @0.050, 105 LSA. I run 93 octane and I've never seen evidence of detonation. The car is a Datsun 240Z at about 2600lb., 3.73:1, 26" tire. Smokey and others convinced me to go for that low quench with their writings.
That car is very light and for a 406sbc that is indeed easy and you can probably crank a little bit more compression and get away with gains in torque and response big time!
Now retired I took apart my 87 starion turbo 2.6 jet valve head to redesign the jet valves to become a third valve instead of just for swirl but for additional intake charge for more boost with same ecu. Also removed all hot spot aspect of jet valve. Just having fun. Never stop sir. Ben you've taught us more than any classroom in the country. I deeply appreciate you sir.
I had a 79 3/4 ton 4x4 w 4.10 gears , 31" tires . Put a rectangular port closed chamber ported heads 427 Rat in it with 10.5 to 1 . Hyd 238/244 on a 108 lsa cam . 4000 stall . 22 deg initial timing /36 total 750 cfm on a ported torker . 93 octane . Detroit is 660 ft elevation . 16 mpg highway @70 . I had to pull the engine out due to twisting off axles on the HD corporate 14 bolt w/locker rear end and twisting the frame . A downshift and floor it @ 70 would smoke the tires . 5500lbs and would eat factory muscle cars for lunch . What he has said is TRUTH . Truck ran 12s on 10.5 x31 tall street tires thru the exhaust .
With your combination of rec.ports and closed chambers gave you a very effective comb. chambers perhaps with lots of swirl from the partial shrouding of the intake which is good for torque! I am sure you noticed when you crank that initial timing @ idle/low speed you can burn the tires for days! lol I am glad you are happy and we confirmed what you experience on this videos!
Sir you have so much knowledge. I respect every lesson you teach. You are absolutely correct. In circle track on 3/8 and 1/2 Mile tracks I always ran a locked out distributor with 35 to 36 degrees advance on pump gas. Never had any detonation issues. For 7 years with cars in multiple classes. 180 psi cranking compression normal method or with exhaust Rocker removed. The way tech did it. Ran between 224 and 248 at .050. Depending on class engine I built. Multiple championships multiple years with multiple classes. Your knowledge sir wins races period.
@@benalamedaracing2765 still waiting on the machine shop for the billet 9.5. Block. The 8.2 is back up and running great. Waiting to go test at the track. I sent you the info on the hemi engine. Did you look at that yet ? Let me know. Thanks
I hope you are doing well Ben. I look forward to your videos. You are sharing some very good secrets you have learned over the years. Thank you for sharing your life sir.
You are 120% right on the money. NASCAR Crew chiefs said the same thing many times with constant air flow they try to run as much temp in engine without carefully trying to avoid detonation . awesome ❤ Tune must be accurate!!!!
They also run very light oil on the engine and with it warmed up they have circulation big time with these types of lubricants, decreasing engine drag as well with low oil pressures and elevated engine temps.
Ben, If I ever finish it, my experiment will be to get a piston to about .035 of the spark plug in an open chamber 2v head on a 302. The flame kernel may be touching the spark plug boss and piston at the same time so I am hoping the flame front pushes on the piston instead of colliding with it. The spark plug boss will also aid in mixture motion.....possibly not as well as a quench pad, but something. I will let you know what happens.😆
5:35 I have a Buick V6 engine with zero deck height with cometic .027" head gaskets. After 3 years of running the engine like that, I had a head gasket to fail (only 4 head bolts/cylinder at 30psi of boost). The pistons were imprinting on the carbon on the heads because they were so close. One even got close enough to see aluminum. That particular piston/rod could've been an oddball length, but it was definitely kissing the head ever so slightly. When I took the heads in to clean them up, they only needed .003" shaved off. I'll be stepping the gasket thickness up to .030 or .036 next time.
Yes that is close and I think I have said many time here .028 so you were very close at .027! Piston rock on that one probably was more or perhaps rods is a rad longer or stretch? But you are correct and .030 is good or perhaps more depending on your rotating weight.
Merry Christmas Juan! Joe Sherman and myself including his son Steve Sherman started our Ford Vs. Chevy battle at Barona Speedway which until today is bigger than ever from when we started it. RIP to Joe a fine gentleman and racer...
I have to say you are definitely knowledge in this subject. I can speak on this because I am also knowledge in this subject. Yes people really have a misconception on compression ratios. A lot of people don't even understand the difference between static and dynamic let alone all the other variables. I first realized this many years ago when my stepfather was running a 4:54 with 12.5 to 1 static compression with steel heads. And he ran 93 all day. So when I start hearing about oh my God it's supercharged and turboed and you got to have like 7 to 1 compression I realize how little people understand. I currently have a 384 Stroker with just shy of 11:01 compression and its twin turboed. I don't have detonation issues. Actually in fact having a little bit higher compression is great to deal with lag. You know when your car is a slug off the line waiting for your turbos or superchargers to spool up. It also means less work for the forced induction. Don't get me wrong there's a lot of other factors going into this. The first thing is not just to mismatched and throw all the parts you think are the best at your project and in fact look at everything as a matched combination. Your cylinder heads, your camshaft, your intake manifold, your exhaust headers, your fuel delivery source AKA carburetor, throttle body, multi-port, direct injection etc etc etc. And before matching these parts together what is your block and lower end? You are bore & stroke, quench, compression ratio, type of materials of each part, etc etc etc. And obviously this is going to be more detrimental in a higher performance engine that's being raced versus the average car driving around town. However when building your average car driving around town, when you put the proper things together you can actually make a much better engine from the jump by just doing your homework & properly matching the components
I find nothing wrong with your comments and it is much better if you were running E85 on the streets and it should even be better! Looks like you have done your homework in the build info.
Great info. I have been using 94 octane in my Trick Flow headed 302 stroker. And it will take a lot of total advance even with 10.6-1 compression. I will try 91 octane, perhaps that will suit it better.
Absolutely and just imagine guys building engines with cranking pressure and low compressions reading 160's @ sea level and going up to 5100 ft./above sea level? They would have an absolute dog for an engine. lol
Hey Ben, I just wanted to say Thank You, for giving me good advice from text messages. I couldn't comment on here because I didn't have a Google account. My email address wouldn't let me like or subscribe. I took your advice and am using the 6 inch rods and the Mahle pistons with the Callies crank in my wife's 55 Chevy. She might not like it, but I certainly will. Thank You. Jerry in Mt. Washington. Ky. :)
I have a twin cam 95" Harley i recently built the engine. It has 195psi cranking pressure cold and runs a .035" quench on a piston with a 6cc dome. With the cams I selected (.042" intake closing) it makes gobs of torque and runs really well.
Good info. Ben. Thank you. The only thing you did not not mention is that the "safe" .028-.032 quench allowance needs to be adjusted if cylinder blocks and or cylinder heads are of aluminum as opposed to cast iron. Same goes for engines running with aluminum rather than steel connecting rods. The expansion/growth rates vary with materials so the safe clearances must be calculated accordingly. Also, R.P.M. must be taken into consideration and added to the mix. Ultra-high reving engines will require increased safe quench clearances.
You are correct and the next installment will include these things you suggested. I did an aluminum LS years ago with a very tight quench and told the owner (with steel rods). not to rev it when it is under 160*f so it does not smack the chambers! Well his buddy got inside the driver seat with a very cold engine and started revving and drove it like a screwed up monkey and it did shadowed the pistons and chambers so close he decided to pull it apart just to make sure! lol Then he called me up and said yes sir you are correct in not revving it up cold, before the aluminum block grew taller and moved the head farther from the pistons!.
I have a 1967 318 2bb that has 57 CC Chambers on those 920 castings. Chrysler called them fast burn heads. They are closed chamber. It is rated 230 horse at the rear tires. Factory rated 9.5 and it runs on today's fuel with no pings or knocks.
Thanks Ben. I've heard that F1 also has injectors down lower in the intake tract for lower RPM, and they start using the injectors at the top of the velocity stack at higher RPM. The reason I heard was that the fuel fog above the stacks would be a problem if they used the top injectors at low rpm due to reversion.
If they used the top injectors considering the intake pull on these engines @ lower speed is very low on the intake tract, reversion is indeed a possibility and it needs to place the low speed injectors closest to the valve and having them upstream will not do much good! Imagine @ low speeds with the top injectors feeding it may not completely make (fuel stream) it to the chambers from such a far distance so it has to be done the conventional automotive layout closest to the cylinder heads or flange.
Ben, when disconnect the vacuum advance, is it better remove the diofram completely, or leave it on. Was another very interesting segment again thanks mate.
Just over 190psi here and running great on my 4v cc 393 Cleveland with 11.2:1 static compression. Quench ended up at .039 (would have nice to get a bit tighter but working awesome.
LS1 engines had 7LB of drag on the original ring pack. We ( GM Australia) developed a new set of rings that had 11 LB of drag. this was introduced across all ls engines worldwide and reduced the oil consumption.
That is a main concern with low drag oil rings and many do run some kind of pan evacuation or dry sump to make it better. What oil weight do you run to help the consumption issue?
So the quench area overall is more susceptible to initiating detonation? Is this why a longer rod, creating more dwell at TDC, therefore covering the quench area, results in less detonation? The message I seem to hear is the longer rod is an essential part of high compression algorithm for a street engine along with tight quench
Quench and longer rods are good except when you get to the ultra high compression racing engines that quench becomes a net negative and a positive at the same time. It is very important how you set it up these is why on another video I talk about softening the heads and using a V directed groove or placing a depression on the portion of the quench to negate the possibility's of detonation. Check that video and it will explain it further.
Because LSA is important for optimal RPM and power output I think charging the duration would be a better adjustment. It’s a +\-1:1 degree change to overlap which should tame the detonation issue. Would love to know your thoughts
Basically more duration than less makes it more tolerant of pump gas with decent compression. You do not want low compression wih small cams because that will turn backwards on you. That is a mistake a lot of builder make...
Great tip on experimenting with a spacer before notching the divider on a 2 plane: cheap, and easy to fix if it degrades power. When it works, I don't know if taking down more than 60% of wall height does any better?
If decreasing the divider wall height or thickness Edelbrock and the others would have given an advice or advisor but instead most of them will say install an inch spacer if hood clearance allows! That to me is a good signal not to mess with the divider plate...My dyno and track testing showed lowering the divider did worse than just leaving it alone and experimenting with spacer thickness.
Hi, your opinion on my present combination please. Static comp 12.9.The dynamic is 8.71.Plan is to run 105 octane fuel. It is a 2200cc 4 cyl twin cam multivalve motor ,850kg weight for circuit racing. ITBs and programmable ECU. 316/312 seat to seat duration. Many thanks for your incredible vids.
once again very informative stuff and real world .great. i have a 504ci bbf kasse heads ,11.7 comp ratio in a 3500lb car,by reducing my head gaskets ,and chamber volume to 70cc ,this will be 0.032 piston to head clearance i will raise my comp to 12.2,what fuel to run at the track for max combustion power? i run 100 octane pump gas50/50 with 100 low lead avgas currently, runs 10.5sec @134mph with a manual gbox and 3.9 gear. cheers
If you have too much piston rock a .032 can be very close so check just to make sure! Press one side and measure how much it goes up. Avgas I am not a fan because some gaskets get eaten up by them so just go straight 100-104 should be good! Where is your total timing set at high rpms?
I've got a '71 Mitsubishi Galant GTO with a 1.6L 4G32. Got the engine in pieces at the moment and I'm looking at my options as far as rebuilding. Standard is 9.5:1 SCR & 8.5:1 DCR. The new cam is IVC 67° ABDC, which means if i machine the dished pistons into flat tops, and then deck the block to get the compression back, i end up with 10.8:1 SCR & 8.4:1 DCR. What do you reckon.. is that as much as i could get out of it? I'll be running Australian 98 RON (Equivalent to 93 US Gas). There's also the option of skimming the head, which should bump it to 11.7:1 SCR & 9.1:1 DCR. The 4G32 uses hemi combustion chambers, so no quench areas(Just finished your other video on the importance of those..)
Love your videos Ben! They have helped me a ton with my current build. I’m currently planning a 393C for my street/strip 70 Mach1. Using ported cast 4V heads with a 61cc chamber (chambers have been polished/cleaned up). Using flat tops it calculates to 11.9:1 static…. 7.44 dynamic using a solid roller with .672 lift, 254I and 262E @50 at .20 lash on a 108LS. Zero decked using a .40 head gasket. Will use a 4.10 or 4.30 gear behind a 4R70W. What do you think of this setup with 93 octane on the street? Would prob use race gas for the odd trip to the track.
That engine should be very responsive with power for the streets no doubt. The cam specs you have closely resembles what I also have on my 70 Mach 1. It was stock stroke however and ran it on pump gas and like you would add octane boosters when I go to the track! Thanks for your support.
Give u a lot of credit you speak facts and that’s why I like ur videos showing people how to do things rock on brother there aren’t too many of people like you around merry Xmas
Ben, i have a car i love dearly that i want to increase the power in and keep it naturally aspirated. Its has a 1.0 three cylinder engine. Do you have any tips on material i can use to educate myself further, so i can do it myself? I have tried asking around the local scene, but since its a different type of car then everyone else, i do not get taken seriously. I have been to events, club meetings, race days, trackdays, you name it. I even help a car club for free, doing tech inspections on cars since i have education as a car mechanic (required in my country.) But as you know yourself, repairing and maintaining cars are a entirely different beast to actually make it faster.
Is 200 PSI of cranking compression the target pressure for 91 octane or 93 octane? Also is there a formula to determine or estimate the engine's cranking compression? I'm in the planning process of my build and would like to get the cranking compression right the first time rather than having to change the combination of parts if it is wrong, which will add to the cost of my build. I have also been to a number of online dynamic compression calculators. I get conflicting answers as to what the cranking and dynamic compression would be and I don't know what is correct. Thank you for your time and keep up the good work with the videos. 👍
Call Isky's Nolan or Rod and they will point you the closest ot the tech guys at Comp. Cams. They have more experience and feedback than anyone including me sir!
@@benalamedaracing2765 very good, thank you very much. I was hoping you'd say that. Your information and the way you share it, is Aces in my book. I'm sure I'll have more questions in the very near future. Have a great evening
If you use a closed chamber and what to get proper quench, isn’t there some grinding involved towards the flat side of the head where part of the piston meets? Don’t you want to grind the side of the chamber into a ramp so the piston forces the air fuel mixture back down the ramp you ground into the combustion chamber?
@@benalamedaracing2765 Two part question. First, what power range are we talking when you should start modifying the chamber by grinding the flat part of the head into the chamber to prevent detonation? Two, what does softening of the chamber do? Does it just improve airflow and turbulence?
Speaking of quinch, factory 351w in the 70s were extremely bad, every single one I checked the piston was in the hole approximately .041. In your experience what were some of the best or worst factory piston to deck clearances you have seen on the 70s Era 351w stuff?
I feel the earlier blocks went backwards as far as quench because the first 351W the C9 castings are actually 9.480! Perhaps many pistons from Ford leftover perhaps ended up in some D4 castings and sat lower in the hole! That perhaps indication of why they were not impressive on the streets compared to the Clevelands and SBC's.
Bend you're a marvelous man and I love you sharing all your little secrets but your bac 27:3527:35 kground noise on your videos is terrible and it's really hard to hear you
Thanks Dick and you are right. My issue with this video is the freeway cars zipping by creating those sounds and the mike is so sensitive it picks up freeway cars flying by! I could probably film during the night...
Thanks Ben. Now I'm outlaw hp... what were you do with timing 9 way and cam and what time ⌚ of the number? Lol please give me buzz tip.. I'm transmission automatic where good service and where buzz goes.. 😂
If you have a 9 way timing chain that is awesome and gives you a lot of playing adjustments. If you are .560 or less lift @ valve you can do this but if you are close to .600 with stock type valve reliefs it will get close intake or exhaust!
Ok seriously, once we get the quench and the chambers right, it comes down to how much timing advance. Raise your hands. If your playing with pump gas, you dont have a dyno in your back pocket. Detnation heats up the crankcase. Retarded timing heats up the exhaust. Oil temp Header temp Monitoring these is cheap dyno on the fly
Yes sir and experience tells you which to do and what to avoid! You got it when you said retarded timing heats up the exhaust and they do glowing orange in the process! lol
To whom it may concern. The bloody knuckle here this guy knows his &*^% I really don't like his videos gives away to much perfect information this guy is one of the best there is no doubt.
@@benalamedaracing2765 75 bore * 90 stroke , 12.7:1 CR 280psi (@sea level) STOCK CAM 198in 192ex @ 0.050 lift 8mm in ex , on stock ecu with bigger 250cc injectors (32 deg peak timing) runs without knock on 99 octane @ sea level and excellent efficiency. The question is for the same engine , at higher altitudes, 6000 - 8000 feet above sea level and under 20C temps, how much min octane can i run it on ?
Would retarding the cam timing be effective for reducing detonation? If so, could you address the advantages and disadvantages of each method? I am currently running a heat shield under my intake on my 5.9 magnum. It is simply bolted down on top of the "spider" that holds the roller lifters. I can't tell you how much it reduces intake temp but, it seems to help.
Retarding the cam will cut down on cranking pressures giving you some more room away from detonation but the expense is the exhaust valve gets closer to the pistons! Advancing would bring the intake valves closer to the pistons and boost your dynamic pressures within the combustion chambers sometimes getting closer to detonation than before! It is a give and take.
Hi Ben, I have a 306 sbf with windsor sr iron heads, 10.9cr with small dome and 224@.050, .542" cam, weiand stealth intake and holley 650dp........was aiming for 400hp at flywheel.......what do you think? Dave
Looks good and the heads stock without porting? 400hp should be reachable with that combination specially if you have full length hedders plus a 1 or 2 inch open spacer under the carb!
@@benalamedaracing2765 Hi, thanks for the reply. I removed all the casting flash from the heads and port matched to the manifold, only had room for a 1/4" nitrile spacer, full length 1 5/8" headers, .045" quench all in a 2600# GT40 replica, 3.44 diff............a lot of fun:)....thanks for sharing these pearls of wisdom😊
Ben im having trouble with the dynamic compression ratio figuring . I can come up with the about 8 to 1 figure but my cranking psi figures to be only 165 psi using Wallace Racing Calculator . Is this what i want or do i still seek close to 200 psi from my combination ?? Im a bit stumped .....?? Will you please explain further ?? This is for a truck that will work sometimes and factory Fuel Injected mildly cammed for torque down lower . Im in the planning stages for no disappointments and could use your advice to just be healthy and efficent using the tricks . Stock convertor and not much gear . Ty .
I think you are good where you are at with the gearing and stock converter that you are using. I would rather go for max ignition timing over trying to approach 200# cranking pressures. That might be too close for comfort. A truck is somewhat heavy so you are safe close with this.
If only computers had a screw to adjust the fuel air ratio..... a little potentiometer. Life would be soooo much better. Another over the top information packed video. A lot of us have concerns with slightly modified engines and fuel mileage. It would be fun to have a video comparing cam lift and overlap and how that and compression ratio affect mileage. I know performance is your business..... but racers are concerned about mileage too. Right? 🤔🫣
If you flowed your cylinder heads and not just use what the manufacturer told you they flowed (which many actually flow less) then you can target your cam lift @ the valve to maximum potential. More compression means better mileage no doubt and has been proven many times and it is just how lumpy you want your idle to be because the overlap has a lot to do with these as much as the effective duration of the camshaft. Talk to Isky Cams (Rod) and they will give you the closest recommendation and usually hits it right at the first try!
@@benalamedaracing2765 Thank you for taking the time to answer so many questions people have. I'm an Isky fan because of watching Alex and Dennis Taylor for a few years.
@@benalamedaracing2765 its a indy big block short deck wedge with indy dash 1 heads flat top pistons. stroke is 4.25 and the bore is 4.5 inches, jessel belt drive t&d rockers 1.7. cam duration at .050 275 intake 280 exhaust, lobe lift is .4414 on both intake and exhaust, lobe separation is 110, timing events intake 27.5 -67.5 exhaust 70-30, solid roller with .662 gross lift on both ex and int static compression is 12.6 to one with a .030 quench. going to run e85
People used to make fun one for leaving the 2nd ring out and on an FE 6.54 rods. And it ran great with a moly top ring and the oil rings had a link cut off. You would never know! The power was nuts! I used a torque wrench and it took 10 ft lbs to turn it. People said it wouldn’t live. It is still alive in a 65 Galaxie with 4.33 gears and I built it in 2000. A 394 ci 390. Never pinged at 11 I ran 93. it is up to 11:1 with thin gaskets . The pistons are forged flat tops out. of the hole and with the gaskets it was .034 quench. I opened the pocket from the plug around the 2.06 intakes . I wish I could afford a set of Trick Flows for it! I am legally blind and had to give up my license. I still love working on engines! That 394 ci FE hauls butt, and that was 2000 , it gets better with time. Leaving the 2nd ring made the big difference. And using 360 truck rods 6.54 vs 6.48 made a difference. A nice tight 11:1 and no oil burning no pinging. I need to get a roller cam in there I have the roller lifters. I want 230@.050 .550 and 110. I run the same top tier 93 Phillips 66 that I run in our 2022 Edge ST 164 V6 that’s twin turbo and makes 2.5 hp per cube. The 394 is at 17 initial and 20 centrifugal for 37 no VA, and the Mr Gasket springs all in by 2400, a 2800 rpm stall, that locks at 3200 with 4.33s.
Another awesome project there!
Sad kids today don't want to get dirty and have lots of pride in something they've built=confident and knowledge. Thanks for sharing the wisdom you worked so hard to deserves respect
2nd Ben
Thanks to you guys it is rewarding to say the least.
I want to, but almost no old timers are teaching their knowledge to the next generation. I have tried to get in contact with people who has the knowledge for years upon years, but always get rejected or blown off in the end. Such a shame.
@@TheRealEvilSink you have work for the knowledge as everyone else has done. There is nothing free . That's always has worked 👍🇺🇸💯❤️ not trying ybe demeaning if someone gives you something it is very easy to forget or toss away. If you earn it very easy to remember it👍
Not me - built a little 355 with my son, rod stretch and all. Doing=confidence, and that's very important for all young men. Also, its a shame to know something and not pass it on.
Tuning in from New Hampshire. I can't thank you enough for the knowledge you have given us subscribers.
Appreciate the feedback and support very much!
Great to hear the experience from a man like Ben...
Thanks!
I'm running a 406 SBC, 4.155" bore, with J&E forged pistons, at 0.030" quench, Canfield 215cc heads, with 10.7:1 compression,, 251/251 @0.050, 105 LSA. I run 93 octane and I've never seen evidence of detonation. The car is a Datsun 240Z at about 2600lb., 3.73:1, 26" tire. Smokey and others convinced me to go for that low quench with their writings.
That car is very light and for a 406sbc that is indeed easy and you can probably crank a little bit more compression and get away with gains in torque and response big time!
@@benalamedaracing2765 - thanks, your video has me thinking I've gone too low on the compression ratio!
@@pete540Z, I feel you did go a tad low and perhaps giving away quiet a bit of hp and torque. Every little bit helps bud!
What is your cold /hot cranking compression with your 240z combo. where are you located for elevation calc.Thx
@@waltmucha2499 IIRC, cold cranking pressure was 200-210 psi. At about 500ft above sea level.
I hope you're doing well ben, please keep this great information coming.
Will expand some more on the information and I feel people like it very much because not everyone runs a full on racecar.
Now retired I took apart my 87 starion turbo 2.6 jet valve head to redesign the jet valves to become a third valve instead of just for swirl but for additional intake charge for more boost with same ecu. Also removed all hot spot aspect of jet valve. Just having fun. Never stop sir. Ben you've taught us more than any classroom in the country.
I deeply appreciate you sir.
Thanks Mike!
I had a 79 3/4 ton 4x4 w 4.10 gears , 31" tires . Put a rectangular port closed chamber ported heads 427 Rat in it with 10.5 to 1 . Hyd 238/244 on a 108 lsa cam . 4000 stall . 22 deg initial timing /36 total 750 cfm on a ported torker . 93 octane . Detroit is 660 ft elevation . 16 mpg highway @70 .
I had to pull the engine out due to twisting off axles on the HD corporate 14 bolt w/locker rear end and twisting the frame . A downshift and floor it @ 70 would smoke the tires . 5500lbs and would eat factory muscle cars for lunch . What he has said is TRUTH . Truck ran 12s on 10.5 x31 tall street tires thru the exhaust .
With your combination of rec.ports and closed chambers gave you a very effective comb. chambers perhaps with lots of swirl from the partial shrouding of the intake which is good for torque! I am sure you noticed when you crank that initial timing @ idle/low speed you can burn the tires for days! lol
I am glad you are happy and we confirmed what you experience on this videos!
Sir you have so much knowledge. I respect every lesson you teach. You are absolutely correct.
In circle track on 3/8 and 1/2 Mile tracks I always ran a locked out distributor with 35 to 36 degrees advance on pump gas. Never had any detonation issues. For 7 years with cars in multiple classes.
180 psi cranking compression normal method or with exhaust Rocker removed.
The way tech did it.
Ran between 224 and 248 at .050. Depending on class engine I built.
Multiple championships multiple years with multiple classes. Your knowledge sir wins races period.
Thanks Mike!
Thank you for making these videos. They are absolutely great
Thanks as well Marco.
Great content as always , thank you sir!
Always good info. Thanks for sharing ❤
How is your projects progressing as of late?
@@benalamedaracing2765 still waiting on the machine shop for the billet 9.5. Block. The 8.2 is back up and running great. Waiting to go test at the track. I sent you the info on the hemi engine. Did you look at that yet ? Let me know. Thanks
@@Jvcomet I just got back and I will check it out and do a video.
@@benalamedaracing2765 awesome thanks
I hope you are doing well Ben. I look forward to your videos. You are sharing some very good secrets you have learned over the years. Thank you for sharing your life sir.
I appreciate that very much sir!
I learned so much from u, ford through & through
Thanks for your support sir!
You are 120% right on the money. NASCAR Crew chiefs said the same thing many times with constant air flow they try to run as much temp in engine without carefully trying to avoid detonation . awesome ❤
Tune must be accurate!!!!
They also run very light oil on the engine and with it warmed up they have circulation big time with these types of lubricants, decreasing engine drag as well with low oil pressures and elevated engine temps.
Wow...have learned so much from you, wish i had this info years ago !
Ben, If I ever finish it, my experiment will be to get a piston to about .035 of the spark plug in an open chamber 2v head on a 302. The flame kernel may be touching the spark plug boss and piston at the same time so I am hoping the flame front pushes on the piston instead of colliding with it. The spark plug boss will also aid in mixture motion.....possibly not as well as a quench pad, but something. I will let you know what happens.😆
Keep me posted of what you have done and experienced.
5:35 I have a Buick V6 engine with zero deck height with cometic .027" head gaskets. After 3 years of running the engine like that, I had a head gasket to fail (only 4 head bolts/cylinder at 30psi of boost). The pistons were imprinting on the carbon on the heads because they were so close. One even got close enough to see aluminum. That particular piston/rod could've been an oddball length, but it was definitely kissing the head ever so slightly. When I took the heads in to clean them up, they only needed .003" shaved off. I'll be stepping the gasket thickness up to .030 or .036 next time.
Yes that is close and I think I have said many time here .028 so you were very close at .027! Piston rock on that one probably was more or perhaps rods is a rad longer or stretch? But you are correct and .030 is good or perhaps more depending on your rotating weight.
Joe Sherman was on my list , you just bumped him down a notch . Great content thank you Ben. Merry Christmas and happy new year .
Merry Christmas Juan! Joe Sherman and myself including his son Steve Sherman started our Ford Vs. Chevy battle at Barona Speedway which until today is bigger than ever from when we started it. RIP to Joe a fine gentleman and racer...
I have to say you are definitely knowledge in this subject. I can speak on this because I am also knowledge in this subject. Yes people really have a misconception on compression ratios. A lot of people don't even understand the difference between static and dynamic let alone all the other variables. I first realized this many years ago when my stepfather was running a 4:54 with 12.5 to 1 static compression with steel heads. And he ran 93 all day. So when I start hearing about oh my God it's supercharged and turboed and you got to have like 7 to 1 compression I realize how little people understand. I currently have a 384 Stroker with just shy of 11:01 compression and its twin turboed. I don't have detonation issues. Actually in fact having a little bit higher compression is great to deal with lag. You know when your car is a slug off the line waiting for your turbos or superchargers to spool up. It also means less work for the forced induction. Don't get me wrong there's a lot of other factors going into this. The first thing is not just to mismatched and throw all the parts you think are the best at your project and in fact look at everything as a matched combination. Your cylinder heads, your camshaft, your intake manifold, your exhaust headers, your fuel delivery source AKA carburetor, throttle body, multi-port, direct injection etc etc etc. And before matching these parts together what is your block and lower end? You are bore & stroke, quench, compression ratio, type of materials of each part, etc etc etc.
And obviously this is going to be more detrimental in a higher performance engine that's being raced versus the average car driving around town. However when building your average car driving around town, when you put the proper things together you can actually make a much better engine from the jump by just doing your homework & properly matching the components
I find nothing wrong with your comments and it is much better if you were running E85 on the streets and it should even be better! Looks like you have done your homework in the build info.
Great info. I have been using 94 octane in my Trick Flow headed 302 stroker. And it will take a lot of total advance even with 10.6-1 compression. I will try 91 octane, perhaps that will suit it better.
GREAT INFO.!
Thanks for watching!
Very good info Ben you the man keep them coming sir
Thanks, will do!
My warm cranking compression at 5100’ is 162-165. Adjusted to sea level is 191-195. My baby runs good up here and pulls harder down in the valley
Absolutely and just imagine guys building engines with cranking pressure and low compressions reading 160's @ sea level and going up to 5100 ft./above sea level?
They would have an absolute dog for an engine. lol
Also the corvette ring is much closer to the top of the piston !
This is why they make power! Good stuff.
Hey Ben, I just wanted to say Thank You, for giving me good advice from text messages. I couldn't comment on here because I didn't have a Google account. My email address wouldn't let me like or subscribe. I took your advice and am using the 6 inch rods and the Mahle pistons with the Callies crank in my wife's 55 Chevy. She might not like it, but I certainly will. Thank You. Jerry in Mt. Washington. Ky. :)
Thanks for supporting my channel thru viewership.
I have a twin cam 95" Harley i recently built the engine. It has 195psi cranking pressure cold and runs a .035" quench on a piston with a 6cc dome. With the cams I selected (.042" intake closing) it makes gobs of torque and runs really well.
What octane gas to you guys run over there?
Sadly we only have 91 or sometimes 93 octane and no e85.@@benalamedaracing2765
Happy Saturday Ben,great video,
Thanks! You too for supporting my channel.
Good info. Ben. Thank you. The only thing you did not not mention is that the "safe" .028-.032 quench allowance needs to be adjusted if cylinder blocks and or cylinder heads are of aluminum as opposed to cast iron. Same goes for engines running with aluminum rather than steel connecting rods. The expansion/growth rates vary with materials so the safe clearances must be calculated accordingly. Also, R.P.M. must be taken into consideration and added to the mix. Ultra-high reving engines will require increased safe quench clearances.
You are correct and the next installment will include these things you suggested. I did an aluminum LS years ago with a very tight quench and told the owner (with steel rods). not to rev it when it is under 160*f so it does not smack the chambers!
Well his buddy got inside the driver seat with a very cold engine and started revving and drove it like a screwed up monkey and it did shadowed the pistons and chambers so close he decided to pull it apart just to make sure! lol
Then he called me up and said yes sir you are correct in not revving it up cold, before the aluminum block grew taller and moved the head farther from the pistons!.
Hey Bill!
Great video buddy. Thank you. Great info my friend
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks!
I have a 1967 318 2bb that has 57 CC Chambers on those 920 castings. Chrysler called them fast burn heads. They are closed chamber. It is rated 230 horse at the rear tires. Factory rated 9.5 and it runs on today's fuel with no pings or knocks.
Very considerate of you to share
Thank you
It's my pleasure!
Thanks Ben.
I've heard that F1 also has injectors down lower in the intake tract for lower RPM, and they start using the injectors at the top of the velocity stack at higher RPM. The reason I heard was that the fuel fog above the stacks would be a problem if they used the top injectors at low rpm due to reversion.
If they used the top injectors considering the intake pull on these engines @ lower speed is very low on the intake tract, reversion is indeed a possibility and it needs to place the low speed injectors closest to the valve and having them upstream will not do much good! Imagine @ low speeds with the top injectors feeding it may not completely make (fuel stream) it to the chambers from such a far distance so it has to be done the conventional automotive layout closest to the cylinder heads or flange.
Ben, when disconnect the vacuum advance, is it better remove the diofram completely, or leave it on. Was another very interesting segment again thanks mate.
I usually removed them because sitting there they look ugly!
Thank you Ben !
Just over 190psi here and running great on my 4v cc 393 Cleveland with 11.2:1 static compression. Quench ended up at .039 (would have nice to get a bit tighter but working awesome.
Well glad you found out more tighter the more response the engine gets!
Thankyou for sharing mr Alameda. Alot to think about could you do a video on camshafts as I would like to here our opion.peace
Yes I will do a cam choice for the streets soon!
LS1 engines had 7LB of drag on the original ring pack. We ( GM Australia) developed a new set of rings that had 11 LB of drag. this was introduced across all ls engines worldwide and reduced the oil consumption.
That is a main concern with low drag oil rings and many do run some kind of pan evacuation or dry sump to make it better. What oil weight do you run to help the consumption issue?
Thank you Mr Alameda !!!
You are very welcome Bob appreciate your support!
So the quench area overall is more susceptible to initiating detonation?
Is this why a longer rod, creating more dwell at TDC, therefore covering the quench area, results in less detonation?
The message I seem to hear is the longer rod is an essential part of high compression algorithm for a street engine along with tight quench
Quench and longer rods are good except when you get to the ultra high compression racing engines that quench becomes a net negative and a positive at the same time. It is very important how you set it up these is why on another video I talk about softening the heads and using a V directed groove or placing a depression on the portion of the quench to negate the possibility's of detonation. Check that video and it will explain it further.
Building a 50 Olds SBC this info will be very helpful.
Good luck!
More gold nuggets....
Thx Ben
Thanks!
Because LSA is important for optimal RPM and power output I think charging the duration would be a better adjustment. It’s a +\-1:1 degree change to overlap which should tame the detonation issue. Would love to know your thoughts
Basically more duration than less makes it more tolerant of pump gas with decent compression. You do not want low compression wih small cams because that will turn backwards on you. That is a mistake a lot of builder make...
great vid.
Thanks Bob!
Great tip on experimenting with a spacer before notching the divider on a 2 plane: cheap, and easy to fix if it degrades power. When it works, I don't know if taking down more than 60% of wall height does any better?
If decreasing the divider wall height or thickness Edelbrock and the others would have given an advice or advisor but instead most of them will say install an inch spacer if hood clearance allows! That to me is a good signal not to mess with the divider plate...My dyno and track testing showed lowering the divider did worse than just leaving it alone and experimenting with spacer thickness.
Hi, your opinion on my present combination please. Static comp 12.9.The dynamic is 8.71.Plan is to run 105 octane fuel. It is a 2200cc 4 cyl twin cam multivalve motor ,850kg weight for circuit racing. ITBs and programmable ECU. 316/312 seat to seat duration. Many thanks for your incredible vids.
Do a cranking compression tests and see if you are close to 200# and let me know.
once again very informative stuff and real world .great. i have a 504ci bbf kasse heads ,11.7 comp ratio in a 3500lb car,by reducing my head gaskets ,and chamber volume to 70cc ,this will be 0.032 piston to head clearance i will raise my comp to 12.2,what fuel to run at the track for max combustion power?
i run 100 octane pump gas50/50 with 100 low lead avgas currently, runs 10.5sec @134mph with a manual gbox and 3.9 gear. cheers
If you have too much piston rock a .032 can be very close so check just to make sure! Press one side and measure how much it goes up. Avgas I am not a fan because some gaskets get eaten up by them so just go straight 100-104 should be good! Where is your total timing set at high rpms?
I've got a '71 Mitsubishi Galant GTO with a 1.6L 4G32. Got the engine in pieces at the moment and I'm looking at my options as far as rebuilding.
Standard is 9.5:1 SCR & 8.5:1 DCR.
The new cam is IVC 67° ABDC, which means if i machine the dished pistons into flat tops, and then deck the block to get the compression back, i end up with 10.8:1 SCR & 8.4:1 DCR.
What do you reckon.. is that as much as i could get out of it?
I'll be running Australian 98 RON (Equivalent to 93 US Gas).
There's also the option of skimming the head, which should bump it to 11.7:1 SCR & 9.1:1 DCR.
The 4G32 uses hemi combustion chambers, so no quench areas(Just finished your other video on the importance of those..)
Are you boosting the engine or NA?
@@benalamedaracing2765 it'll be NA. Carburetted.
Love your videos Ben! They have helped me a ton with my current build. I’m currently planning a 393C for my street/strip 70 Mach1. Using ported cast 4V heads with a 61cc chamber (chambers have been polished/cleaned up).
Using flat tops it calculates to 11.9:1 static…. 7.44 dynamic using a solid roller with .672 lift, 254I and 262E @50 at .20 lash on a 108LS.
Zero decked using a .40 head gasket.
Will use a 4.10 or 4.30 gear behind a 4R70W.
What do you think of this setup with 93 octane on the street? Would prob use race gas for the odd trip to the track.
That engine should be very responsive with power for the streets no doubt.
The cam specs you have closely resembles what I also have on my 70 Mach 1. It was stock stroke however and ran it on pump gas and like you would add octane boosters when I go to the track!
Thanks for your support.
Love this guy he speaks facts like George landis this guy just became my best friend love it
Thanks Tony and all of my videos are largely from experience and track testing.
Give u a lot of credit you speak facts and that’s why I like ur videos showing people how to do things rock on brother there aren’t too many of people like you around merry Xmas
If u have a 5/64 ring pack and u put sm miles on it like street car they will wipe out the cylinder cross hatch , or the hone
That is a very thick ring and we avoid it as much as possible.
Ben, i have a car i love dearly that i want to increase the power in and keep it naturally aspirated. Its has a 1.0 three cylinder engine.
Do you have any tips on material i can use to educate myself further, so i can do it myself? I have tried asking around the local scene, but since its a different type of car then everyone else, i do not get taken seriously. I have been to events, club meetings, race days, trackdays, you name it. I even help a car club for free, doing tech inspections on cars since i have education as a car mechanic (required in my country.)
But as you know yourself, repairing and maintaining cars are a entirely different beast to actually make it faster.
Thanks Morgan for your support! Just post any question(s) on my videos and I should answer them asap.
Is 200 PSI of cranking compression the target pressure for 91 octane or 93 octane? Also is there a formula to determine or estimate the engine's cranking compression? I'm in the planning process of my build and would like to get the cranking compression right the first time rather than having to change the combination of parts if it is wrong, which will add to the cost of my build. I have also been to a number of online dynamic compression calculators. I get conflicting answers as to what the cranking and dynamic compression would be and I don't know what is correct. Thank you for your time and keep up the good work with the videos. 👍
Call Isky's Nolan or Rod and they will point you the closest ot the tech guys at Comp. Cams. They have more experience and feedback than anyone including me sir!
Thank you for your feedback i'll give them a call. @@benalamedaracing2765
With the open chamber how do you accommodate squish velocity? Is it all done with the piston?
Ben on currently running air gap manifold on a 302 125 shot of nitrous what would you suggest should a 1 inch plate or nothing
Open for suggestions
If you have a hood clearance then I would use the plate under the carb and the tallest spacer underneath to give it time to mix in the plenum.
How about head gaskets, on a 4.060 bore, whats best, 0.080 gasket bore, or 4.100, gasket bore. Thanks, vry informative
I would use the .080 gasket will help for power reducing crevice losses on the combustion chambes.
@@benalamedaracing2765 very good, thank you very much. I was hoping you'd say that. Your information and the way you share it, is Aces in my book. I'm sure I'll have more questions in the very near future. Have a great evening
If you use a closed chamber and what to get proper quench, isn’t there some grinding involved towards the flat side of the head where part of the piston meets? Don’t you want to grind the side of the chamber into a ramp so the piston forces the air fuel mixture back down the ramp you ground into the combustion chamber?
There is really no need to angle the quench pads and only in cases of very high power output that it may prevent a problem from developing.
@@benalamedaracing2765 Thanks Ben! I appreciate you responding. You are really good at doing this.
@@benalamedaracing2765 Two part question. First, what power range are we talking when you should start modifying the chamber by grinding the flat part of the head into the chamber to prevent detonation? Two, what does softening of the chamber do? Does it just improve airflow and turbulence?
But it also does at bottom Ben, is that detrimental to performance?
I'm not Ben, lol. No, it's a benefit, if the exhaust is working like it should, it will give the cylinder more time to fill.
Speaking of quinch, factory 351w in the 70s were extremely bad, every single one I checked the piston was in the hole approximately .041. In your experience what were some of the best or worst factory piston to deck clearances you have seen on the 70s Era 351w stuff?
I feel the earlier blocks went backwards as far as quench because the first 351W the C9 castings are actually 9.480! Perhaps many pistons from Ford leftover perhaps ended up in some D4 castings and sat lower in the hole! That perhaps indication of why they were not impressive on the streets compared to the Clevelands and SBC's.
Bend you're a marvelous man and I love you sharing all your little secrets but your bac 27:35 27:35 kground noise on your videos is terrible and it's really hard to hear you
Thanks Dick and you are right. My issue with this video is the freeway cars zipping by creating those sounds and the mike is so sensitive it picks up freeway cars flying by!
I could probably film during the night...
@@benalamedaracing2765 hey thank you Ben for getting back to me really appreciate that
Thanks Ben. Now I'm outlaw hp... what were you do with timing 9 way and cam and what time ⌚ of the number? Lol please give me buzz tip.. I'm transmission automatic where good service and where buzz goes.. 😂
If you have a 9 way timing chain that is awesome and gives you a lot of playing adjustments. If you are .560 or less lift @ valve you can do this but if you are close to .600 with stock type valve reliefs it will get close intake or exhaust!
Ok seriously, once we get the quench and the chambers right, it comes down to how much timing advance. Raise your hands. If your playing with pump gas, you dont have a dyno in your back pocket.
Detnation heats up the crankcase. Retarded timing heats up the exhaust.
Oil temp
Header temp
Monitoring these is cheap dyno on the fly
Yes sir and experience tells you which to do and what to avoid!
You got it when you said retarded timing heats up the exhaust and they do glowing orange in the process! lol
To whom it may concern. The bloody knuckle here this guy knows his &*^% I really don't like his videos gives away to much perfect information this guy is one of the best there is no doubt.
Thank you for the kind words sir.
How do no gap "total seal" piston rings effect compression ?
I like them and seal very well and dynamic compression should be better.
Okay if I were to use intake gasket with egr block off without expansion plugs. Will it run like has a exhaust leak in efi fox 5.0
i never had those issues specially if you used copper silicone. Plug the hole with it.
I had bad lifters and replaced all it's good to go now thanks.@@benalamedaracing2765
Did Smokey Yunick have a ying-yang piston ? The purpose was swirl the air-fuel mixture.
He has done a lot of remarkable stuff thru the years and still apply today.
What octane would you recommend if the cranking compression is 220-230 PSI?
I need more details life cam duration @ .050 and compression ratio as is plus bore and stroke.
SBC 327 4.040 bore and 3.25 stroke. Comp Cam 248 in and 254 ex@@benalamedaracing2765
SBC 327 4.040 bore and 3.25 stroke. 12:1 compression. Comp cams 248 intake and 254 exhaust@@benalamedaracing2765
@@benalamedaracing2765 75 bore * 90 stroke , 12.7:1 CR 280psi (@sea level) STOCK CAM 198in 192ex @ 0.050 lift 8mm in ex , on stock ecu with bigger 250cc injectors (32 deg peak timing) runs without knock on 99 octane @ sea level and excellent efficiency.
The question is for the same engine , at higher altitudes, 6000 - 8000 feet above sea level and under 20C temps, how much min octane can i run it on ?
Would retarding the cam timing be effective for reducing detonation? If so, could you address the advantages and disadvantages of each method?
I am currently running a heat shield under my intake on my 5.9 magnum. It is simply bolted down on top of the "spider" that holds the roller lifters. I can't tell you how much it reduces intake temp but, it seems to help.
Retarding the cam will cut down on cranking pressures giving you some more room away from detonation but the expense is the exhaust valve gets closer to the pistons! Advancing would bring the intake valves closer to the pistons and boost your dynamic pressures within the combustion chambers sometimes getting closer to detonation than before! It is a give and take.
Hi Ben, I have a 306 sbf with windsor sr iron heads, 10.9cr with small dome and 224@.050, .542" cam, weiand stealth intake and holley 650dp........was aiming for 400hp at flywheel.......what do you think? Dave
Looks good and the heads stock without porting? 400hp should be reachable with that combination specially if you have full length hedders plus a 1 or 2 inch open spacer under the carb!
@@benalamedaracing2765 Hi, thanks for the reply. I removed all the casting flash from the heads and port matched to the manifold, only had room for a 1/4" nitrile spacer, full length 1 5/8" headers, .045" quench all in a 2600# GT40 replica, 3.44 diff............a lot of fun:)....thanks for sharing these pearls of wisdom😊
Ben im having trouble with the dynamic compression ratio figuring . I can come up with the about 8 to 1 figure but my cranking psi figures to be only 165 psi using Wallace Racing Calculator . Is this what i want or do i still seek close to 200 psi from my combination ?? Im a bit stumped .....?? Will you please explain further ??
This is for a truck that will work sometimes and factory Fuel Injected mildly cammed for torque down lower . Im in the planning stages for no disappointments and could use your advice to just be healthy and efficent using the tricks . Stock convertor and not much gear . Ty .
Ive thought about it and i think the 165 psi leaves room for some igniton advance in a truck with only 3.42 gears .
I think you are good where you are at with the gearing and stock converter that you are using. I would rather go for max ignition timing over trying to approach 200# cranking pressures. That might be too close for comfort. A truck is somewhat heavy so you are safe close with this.
32:22 isn't that backwards
Never heard of this guy
He makes things go fast 😊
Thanks Dan and all Freddie had to do is google my name and he will see lots of magazine and racing coverage!
@@benalamedaracing2765 as of the wheel standing starts didn't show the knowledge 😁🤠
Do u have any cds u can sell me off a bunch of cars from the past I’ve done racing at the track I’m willing to buy them if it’s available thanks
CDS?
Yes cds with 1/4 mile races from back in the days
If only computers had a screw to adjust the fuel air ratio..... a little potentiometer. Life would be soooo much better.
Another over the top information packed video. A lot of us have concerns with slightly modified engines and fuel mileage.
It would be fun to have a video comparing cam lift and overlap and how that and compression ratio affect mileage. I know performance is your business..... but racers are concerned about mileage too. Right? 🤔🫣
If you flowed your cylinder heads and not just use what the manufacturer told you they flowed (which many actually flow less) then you can target your cam lift @ the valve to maximum potential. More compression means better mileage no doubt and has been proven many times and it is just how lumpy you want your idle to be because the overlap has a lot to do with these as much as the effective duration of the camshaft. Talk to Isky Cams (Rod) and they will give you the closest recommendation and usually hits it right at the first try!
@@benalamedaracing2765 Thank you for taking the time to answer so many questions people have. I'm an Isky fan because of watching Alex and Dennis Taylor for a few years.
i want to bring a motor to you to tune on the dyno
What kind of engine do you have and what is in it?
@@benalamedaracing2765 its a indy big block short deck wedge with indy dash 1 heads flat top pistons. stroke is 4.25 and the bore is 4.5 inches, jessel belt drive t&d rockers 1.7. cam duration at .050 275 intake 280 exhaust, lobe lift is .4414 on both intake and exhaust, lobe separation is 110, timing events intake 27.5 -67.5 exhaust 70-30, solid roller with .662 gross lift on both ex and int static compression is 12.6 to one with a .030 quench. going to run e85
ps ty for the reply.@@benalamedaracing2765