oh no you are making a leadscrew.... lets see how often you have to do it.... i've been watching another channel and making a leadscrew for the lathes cross slide seems to end up in a LOT of side projects lol
Who needs a bandsaw when you have a slitting saw, amirite? Maybe he should take that concept further. Sort of like AvE BOLTR unboxing, anything but the sane method. :D
Never disappointed. I like how you think outside the box. You accomplish so much with so little. That requires talent and knowledge. Thank you and see you next week indeed.
I have no idea how you manage to produce such good results with what is pretty basic equipment. Excellent stuff yet again. One thing I would have done differently is to have used short dog point grub screws for the gib and then locked them with another short, pointed grub screw so the heads were below the surface of the slide. Bit more of a pain to set them, but you don't do it that often.
That is MUCH more impressive than the lathe carriage I made, and much sturdier and with more rigidity, and you got to dodge scraping the entire wear pads for the carriage, too!
I'm pretty sure that actually getting a band saw and using it instead of the hacksaw would be a bad financial decision because of the sheer amount of free engagement he gets for it.
I’m toying with this idea on my 180 lathe as the stock cross slide has a lot of flex in it ( as does the whole saddle) I have a myford cross slide which can be made to fit with a thicker gib - a job for the winter nights.
Great project progress. Amazingly ambitious project as well, and it will surely pay off in making your lathe work more enjoyable. Enjoyed this instalment very much, cheers and thanks!
If you ever need to drill something quite long, such as the end of the cross-slide for the type of gib you originally wanted to create, you can mount the part on the lathe carriage/cross slide, place a drill in the chuck, and use the carriage travel to drill long parts. These T-slots will make that kind of operation much easier to setup
Good luck with the lead screw. I've just finished watching Inheritance Machining and his (multiple) attempts at cross slide lead screw. Interested to see how you approach it. The whole cross-slide is looking amazing already!
On my mini lathe I put the scales on the spindle side since the tool post will crash before the scales do.I also have a small chip tray over that end to just to protect the ways as it was so there was no lost real estate.
We need to pitch in and get this man a Porta Band Saw lol. Seriously though a Porta Band would be perfect for you as it's small enough to be stored away and not take up space and can be fitted with a table to for finer cuts.
16:00 create a recess in the workbench for additional clearance and place a photo inside. The photo will be of what’s on the other side of the wall. Maybe some miniature blinds would make a nice touch.
I've never had any luck with those awful Al brazing rods from Bunnings either. Got some Blue Demon ones and they worked great straight away, I would highly recommend them.
Can't wait for the lead screw build.. I have just been watching Artisan makes trying to make one and failing 4 times but I suppose his might be a bit more complex than yours.
On the right side of the cross slide the gib will do. But for a smooth movement on the left side it should be scraped too. Do you plan to scrape that irom piece too? At least I wasn't able to get away without resurfacing it, however mine is made of cast iron.
Sincere question: Why can't you use grinding paste to lap in two imperfect parallel surfaces. Surely that would achieve clearance parity. Wipe onto gib surface and run back and forwards.
Lookin' pretty good there. I don't understand why you didn't put the gib and adjusting screws on the headstock side, though. The side isn't critical, and it would have meant you don't have to bugger about with the linear scale every time you need to adjust the gib. What you /will/ want is some divots in the gib, adjusting screw side, to stop it slipping. I'd definitely have put oiling channels in the dovetails, too, that way you shove a couple of oil zerks on the front of the slide and you can oil everything - I'm not seeing anything on the existing carriage that feeds oil to the 4 sliding surfaces, and they are going to need oil. Speaking of sliding surfaces, it's not just the gib that needs scraping, but I'm sure you have that in mind. You'll want a different tool geometry for scraping steel than cast iron or brass, though, it's comparatively horrible to work with.
If that were true why are they always on the right hand side. I’m not saying you’re wrong or anything but I wasn’t game here to try it different. If it is the case it can’t be too much to move it to the other side.
@@artisanmakes Thinking about it, the reason is probably that the cutting loads are applied through the solid side of the topslide rather than the gib. and in your case that would put all the forces through the screws, so you're probably better off the way you are. Forget I said anything :)
@@ScuffedEngineer Right, but if you sand it on a flat surface (like a glass plate that you don't use for measurement :) ), isn't that a better starting point for scraping? Or rather…I guess you're saying it''s not, but tell me why?
@@johnhawkinson Power scraping in this case is faster. Sanding needs even pressure, which on this part would be difficult and depending on the grit used, longer. So he could waste time sanding and then scrape, or just get to scraping. With sanding it's really easy to round corners as well. All I was saying is flat surfaces don't have to be smooth (reason for scraping). Just like how a flat surface doesn't have to be parallel or perpendicular. They are all mutually exclusive.
Also, you'll hear him comment about wanting some unevenness for the oil to flow into, presumably the rough surface finish would probably fall into that category also. But mostly it's what ScuffedEngineer said.
Why can't the scale just be mounted upside down? I'm sure you'd have thought of this so I'm just hoping to learn something. (It looked like there was clearance for the tailstock to pass over the bulge, but perhaps there is something else that would conflict?)
@@ewbaitea portaband with a benchtop stand can all be stowed and it’s still faster to bring it out and put it away than make some of those cuts in large stock. I think he prefers the hacksaw because it’s part of his brand and for the insane forearm gains 💪🏼
definitely f'ing with everyone with that hacksaw. by the way, why the hell would you make your setscrews flat heads? you should've flattened those gibs then flake them.
Cast iron and bearing bronze have great properties, but brass has the most important property, which is that you have some on hand
🎯😂
that pneumatic scraper looks f***-in awesome in action
oh no you are making a leadscrew.... lets see how often you have to do it.... i've been watching another channel and making a leadscrew for the lathes cross slide seems to end up in a LOT of side projects lol
Will his sanity ever recover from the side projects? Prooooooooooobably not
@Sharkymoto Inheritance Machining?
Heeeyyy that must be his hint to having a colab with someone
@@vaulthecreatorI think so
A surprising amount of red hot hacksaw action in this one, love it!!
I bet that piece of aluminium angle never imagined that it'd end up on a mill 😄
Who needs a bandsaw when you have a slitting saw, amirite? Maybe he should take that concept further. Sort of like AvE BOLTR unboxing, anything but the sane method. :D
Never disappointed.
I like how you think outside the box.
You accomplish so much with so little. That requires talent and knowledge.
Thank you and see you next week indeed.
It's nice to see how well you're back to using your right index finger! Keep on healing up. 👍
Was told the tslots weakened the slide so bought mine without it. Interesting to see you adding it as part of making a stronger slide. Keep em coming
In Cast Iron yes, but this is solid Steel.
@@65cj55 (T-)slotted steel, mind you. ;)
Scraping in the gib is less than half an hour is insane! It's so nice to see the culmination of all the things you've done recently coming together!
I have no idea how you manage to produce such good results with what is pretty basic equipment. Excellent stuff yet again.
One thing I would have done differently is to have used short dog point grub screws for the gib and then locked them with another short, pointed grub screw so the heads were below the surface of the slide. Bit more of a pain to set them, but you don't do it that often.
Yeah, grub on grub is a great system. Also, lo-bond Loctite is a good tweaking glue.
That is MUCH more impressive than the lathe carriage I made, and much sturdier and with more rigidity, and you got to dodge scraping the entire wear pads for the carriage, too!
The next project idea for you could be a pair of machinist jacks. They are simple and would have helped with the brass. Great video, as always 👍
I need some part support when pressing out/in some bearings. Short 5/16" bolt(s) with a coupler nut.
I'm pretty sure that actually getting a band saw and using it instead of the hacksaw would be a bad financial decision because of the sheer amount of free engagement he gets for it.
For real! 😂
Right!
I'm really liking this project, can't wait for the next installment. Thank you 👍💪✌
glad im not the only one that as had no success with those aluminium brasing rods
Wiedereinmal ein guter Beitrag!
Jobs always take a longer then we think
Loving You’re work
This is such a huge undertaking, you're to be commended.
Really nice. I'm sure this will help with rigidity also. Thanks for sharing.
Great vid as always. Question? How many hack saw blades do you go through in a years?
😂😂😂
Much less cost than buying a stupid bandsaw.
I’m toying with this idea on my 180 lathe as the stock cross slide has a lot of flex in it ( as does the whole saddle) I have a myford cross slide which can be made to fit with a thicker gib - a job for the winter nights.
That’s one massive cross slide. Thanks for sharing your project!
Fantastic work as always. Thank you.
Really excellent work 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Great project progress. Amazingly ambitious project as well, and it will surely pay off in making your lathe work more enjoyable. Enjoyed this instalment very much, cheers and thanks!
First things first ... hacksaw! :D
Disagree. This bloke knows what he is doing. A bandsaw is the last tool you’ll ever need if ever. Bandsaws are a total waste of time and money.
@Jimbo-t2h I did write hacksaw...
Great video, colleague👍👍👍
I like how you work and think.
Great build mate, very sturdy, which is all that matters.
Looking good. Coming right along.
If you ever need to drill something quite long, such as the end of the cross-slide for the type of gib you originally wanted to create, you can mount the part on the lathe carriage/cross slide, place a drill in the chuck, and use the carriage travel to drill long parts. These T-slots will make that kind of operation much easier to setup
Good luck with the lead screw. I've just finished watching Inheritance Machining and his (multiple) attempts at cross slide lead screw. Interested to see how you approach it. The whole cross-slide is looking amazing already!
On my mini lathe I put the scales on the spindle side since the tool post will crash before the scales do.I also have a small chip tray over that end to just to protect the ways as it was so there was no lost real estate.
Project looking great.
When you bought a new lathe I was worried, it will mark the end of your lathe upgrades videos. Nevermind!
Super nice job, it looks really clean. I think you're going to need a longer cross slide lock bolt (and a hole in the aluminium cover).
We need to pitch in and get this man a Porta Band Saw lol. Seriously though a Porta Band would be perfect for you as it's small enough to be stored away and not take up space and can be fitted with a table to for finer cuts.
wow this is a beauty !! cross slide supermodel.
im still w/lil' red, long bed from harbor freight, & motor out back u helped out with. All l need.
Your'e doing a great job mate!
Somebody send this great kid a few Starrett’s bi-meta hacksaw blades- he’s earned ‘em!
👍👍👍
Great content as always. Make some cool machinist jacks please.
Great job 🤩
Very nice project.
16:00 create a recess in the workbench for additional clearance and place a photo inside. The photo will be of what’s on the other side of the wall. Maybe some miniature blinds would make a nice touch.
Looking good!
I've never had any luck with those awful Al brazing rods from Bunnings either. Got some Blue Demon ones and they worked great straight away, I would highly recommend them.
really cool
Great job bud
Can't wait for the lead screw build..
I have just been watching Artisan makes trying to make one and failing 4 times but I suppose his might be a bit more complex than yours.
Great video
Congratulations to your progress - this is great 🤩😍🤩
On the right side of the cross slide the gib will do. But for a smooth movement on the left side it should be scraped too. Do you plan to scrape that irom piece too? At least I wasn't able to get away without resurfacing it, however mine is made of cast iron.
Sincere question:
Why can't you use grinding paste to lap in two imperfect parallel surfaces. Surely that would achieve clearance parity. Wipe onto gib surface and run back and forwards.
It's going well....famous last word's.😃
An angle grinder rigged as a baby drop saw would make a quick and cheap hacksaw replacement 🙂
you know whats crazy? amazon recommended me a sls scraper bit for a hammer drill. 30€.
Did this make swing over cross slide less? Looking forward for part 3.
Why on earth are you uploading at like 5am lmao... Loving the vids!
Why not?
The new set screws do not require locknuts? Sometimes they are fiddly. Thank you for sharing.
Lookin' pretty good there. I don't understand why you didn't put the gib and adjusting screws on the headstock side, though. The side isn't critical, and it would have meant you don't have to bugger about with the linear scale every time you need to adjust the gib. What you /will/ want is some divots in the gib, adjusting screw side, to stop it slipping. I'd definitely have put oiling channels in the dovetails, too, that way you shove a couple of oil zerks on the front of the slide and you can oil everything - I'm not seeing anything on the existing carriage that feeds oil to the 4 sliding surfaces, and they are going to need oil.
Speaking of sliding surfaces, it's not just the gib that needs scraping, but I'm sure you have that in mind. You'll want a different tool geometry for scraping steel than cast iron or brass, though, it's comparatively horrible to work with.
If that were true why are they always on the right hand side. I’m not saying you’re wrong or anything but I wasn’t game here to try it different. If it is the case it can’t be too much to move it to the other side.
@@artisanmakes Thinking about it, the reason is probably that the cutting loads are applied through the solid side of the topslide rather than the gib. and in your case that would put all the forces through the screws, so you're probably better off the way you are. Forget I said anything :)
Better to take more time for a great out come then rush and ruin a job. Looking good
Oh gib me a home
Where the DRO roams
How is your finger healing? It looks like you still aren't using it much.
You need to make an access hole for the cross slide lock screw.
brazing you heat from the opposite side the metals travel towards the heat
2 machinist jacks would have been useful to keep that brass gib level when fly cutting it.
Is that a new red cutting oil? Also, what's the thinking on not sanding the surface finish before moving on to blueing and scraping?
For a second, I thought he'd put loctite on it!🤣
Smooth does not mean flat
@@ScuffedEngineer Right, but if you sand it on a flat surface (like a glass plate that you don't use for measurement :) ), isn't that a better starting point for scraping? Or rather…I guess you're saying it''s not, but tell me why?
@@johnhawkinson Power scraping in this case is faster. Sanding needs even pressure, which on this part would be difficult and depending on the grit used, longer. So he could waste time sanding and then scrape, or just get to scraping. With sanding it's really easy to round corners as well.
All I was saying is flat surfaces don't have to be smooth (reason for scraping). Just like how a flat surface doesn't have to be parallel or perpendicular. They are all mutually exclusive.
Also, you'll hear him comment about wanting some unevenness for the oil to flow into, presumably the rough surface finish would probably fall into that category also. But mostly it's what ScuffedEngineer said.
Why can't the scale just be mounted upside down? I'm sure you'd have thought of this so I'm just hoping to learn something. (It looked like there was clearance for the tailstock to pass over the bulge, but perhaps there is something else that would conflict?)
put a micro switch at the wall to stop from crashing.
Do such things need to be sanded on a machine?
At what point do you just make your own lathe?
Instead of rivets, you could have used JB Weld, or its local equivalent.
now add one shot oiler. I did mine for like 100 bux all in
If I had to do mine again I would rout the oil through the carriage to the cross slide ways.
Stupid question, but does anyone know why we never see Babbitt gibs?
For a second there I thought you were using red loctite as cutting lube
why do you refuse to get a band saw
I think he literally doesn't have the space. He showed off his whole workshop in a few vid
There have been multiple people willing to pay for one. They simply don't want one.
Why are you so bothered about him using a hacksaw?
@@ewbaitea portaband with a benchtop stand can all be stowed and it’s still faster to bring it out and put it away than make some of those cuts in large stock.
I think he prefers the hacksaw because it’s part of his brand and for the insane forearm gains 💪🏼
@@ourtube4266It's the character builder saw.
There's a professional machine builder and scraper in QLD that would love to give you some training.
using tools to make more tools. =D
Your index finger looks pretty Gnarly man !
too much blue on the plate it should be an ultra thin smear, good effort though
Designing maintenance tool access from the start? They're going to revoke your engineer credential.
Not even tapered gib, keep the Chinesium quality in there.
I think your scraping technique has swapped accuracy for speed.
definitely f'ing with everyone with that hacksaw.
by the way, why the hell would you make your setscrews flat heads?
you should've flattened those gibs then flake them.
Ich Order ein Set für meine wm210v 😉🫵🏻👍🏻
First things first, lets get out the hacksaw and start the debate.
You can get cordless handheld bandsaws that don't take up much more space than a hacksaw. Just saying.
dont cut stock by hand!
We're waiting for your video showing us how it should be done.
Why not? I'm pretty sure that's what hacksaws are for.
@@industry65 bandsaw
He did with huge success,you should watch and learn.
WHY?
Because YOU say SO?
He's in a position to upgrade. But why, it upsets SO many of you. It really is quite entertaining.