@@MrDIYCraigPhillips The first series was fantastic and I say that not liking reality tv. The magic was you knew you were being watched but you didn't know the magnitude of what a sensation it had become and so you were all still acting as yourselves. I did fear for you all at the time because I thought it would be very shocking when you all came out as probably some of the most famous people of the day. Thanks for the tiling video pal.👍
Hi wetherhills, He is very diminutive our Craig - he's very good at tiling down by the skirting board and in hard to reach places as a result! Cheers, Tile Mountain
Did Craig remove the spacers prior to grouting or grout over them? Doing my first ever tiling job in our wc soon and videos like this give me more confidence in doing so
Hi there, Craig did indeed remove the spacers before grouting and we advise that you do to! Leaving them in and grouting over them can not only cause an uneven finish to grout joints but will mean that the joint itself is weaker at the point where a spacer has been grouted over (as the density of the grout is less). Hope this helps! Tile Mountain
Great video. What are your views on tiling an uneven work surface? Some recommend to fix a temporary batten to the wall in place of the first row of tiles, to ensure the level is 100% level all the way round, then come back and do the first row, trimming off the top if required. Others however just say to start from the bottom row as the human eye won’t work out if it’s slightly wonky once done. Thanks
Hi Ed - thanks for your comment. The reality is, as you say, that both approaches are viable methods. Most people would tile straight to the wall if it's not too unlevel (and we would too!). Hope this helps. Tile Mountain
I'm with both you and @Tilemountian both methods could work, I'd also consider trying to level out the worktop by losing it off and packing below the worktop until it is level then starting level from the worktop, sitting the first course of tiles on just loos 2mm tile spacers that can be removed as soon as there set and dry. then once the rest of the wall is grouted you could silicon fill the bottom 2mm gap between the worktop and the first tile.
What's the best way of grouting bevel edge tiles? Rubber squeegee, foam pad or something else? Normal tiles I'm ok with but bevel edges are a new one on me!
Hi John - thanks for your comment. When grouting around beveled edge tiles, we advise applying the grout to the beveled edge, then using either a rubber float or squeegee, pushing the grout into the joints. Next, clean the grout residue from the face of the tile using Fila Deterdek - www.tilemountain.co.uk/p/fila-deterdek-residue-remover.html . Hope that helps - let us know how you get on and do share any photos of your completed project via our Facebook page or website as we award a £10 Amazon voucher for every image we use in our Customer Gallery! Cheers, Tile Mountain
Great video would you use the same type of set up if you was tiling in a non brick bond style fashion in terms of laying out where the tiles should go etc and what the cuts would be at the ends
Hi stewie3ify - thanks for your comment. In answer to your question - yes, you would dry lay and set out the tiles in a similar fashion. Start from the middle of the wall and work out the space that will be what is left at each end for your cuts. Happy tiling! Tile Mountain
Hello Craig just a quick question. We are having our shower puting in and the tiles I want are small mosaic ones. About 3 X 2. But the tiler seems unsure how to tile them. I've heard that they are not suitable about this. Would appreciate your answer.. Thanking you.
Hi Patricia - thanks for your comment. Most mosaics, providing that they are ceramic or porcelain, should be suited to shower areas and locations where they'll be exposed to direct water. Some, such as split-face mosaics, are often constructed from natural stone materials and cannot be grouted and therefore shouldn't be used where they'll get wet often as water will get behind them causing the adhesive to fail over time. Without seeing the tiles you want to install (or having specific technical information on them), it is hard for us to answer your query, however, we hope the advice we have provided helps! If you're still unsure, please feel free to call our customer services team on 01782 223822 - they'll be happy to help! Thanks, Tile Mountain
Hi Antony, If the surfaces are not level then you will have to measure out and dry lay for each of the tiled areas to ensure a good finish. Alternatively, you could adjust the cuts on the bottom row so as to ensure consistent grout lines from one side of the splashback to the other (we're assuming you mean that the tiled area you want to create runs from one level countertop to another?). Hope this helps. Tile Mountain
I'm tiling a splash back but then a piece a blank wall. I get and like the splash back method but how to I tile down to the floor when i get to he end of the work surface?
Hi BS Chan - thanks for your comment. Before tiling onto a painted wall, we'd advise that you remove the pain as best you can. If you tile directly onto the painted surface the tiles will adhere to the paint and not the surface, increasing the risk of the tiles failing to stick or coming loose. Hope this helps! Tile Mountain
Hi Peter - thanks for your comment. We would suggest finishing an external edge/corner with a suitable tile trim. For internal corners/edges, we would suggest finishing this with a bead of silicone sealant. Hope this helps! Cheers, Tile Mountain
Hi Kelvin - thanks for your comment. You could apply these tiles directly to wood but as with any tiling project, you must ensure that the substrate you're attaching the tiles to is smooth and level. You should also use an adhesive that is flexible such as Mapei Keraquick: www.tilemountain.co.uk/p/keraquick-white-fast-setting-adhesive-20kg.html as this allows for a little movement. Hope this helps! Tile Mountain
Hi, do you use the same technique with an external corner, using bevel edged tiles? I'm expecting to miter them but cannot find a video showing how to. Thanks.
Thanks for the helpful video. I'm planning to tile my new kitchen splash back but I see a potential problem. Where there's a window to go around, and the section under the window sill is going to be awkward (for example) 2 tiles plus a very small less than 1cm slither - is there a better and cleaner looking way of positioning the tiles, for example starting with the bottom row of tiles as half tiles? Having such a small piece under the window might look odd, but then, so could starting with half a tile on the bottom row.
Hi Justin - thanks for your comment. It's entirely down to your preference really... On a 'normal' wall would advise locating the cuts at the bottom and top where they are less noticeable. However, they'd probably be similarly unnoticeable under a windowsill, so we guess it's down to what you're comfortable with. Tile Mountain
Hi 2melapelasway - thanks for your comment. In answer to your question, under circumstances where the bevel will be apparent (e.g half wall) we recommend fitting a trim - general rule of thumb we advise a trim at least 2mm thicker than the tile (not every metro tile is the same thickness!). If you do not want to trim the edges, the other option would be to use a silicone sealant to ensure everything is watertight. Hope this helps. Tile Mountain
What a legend , really well explained. Thank you Craig
Great tip lying the tiles on the kitchen worktop first to see what the end of the wall is going to look like. Thank you
Thanks, your very welcome, I do it every time and it always helps
Glad it was helpful!
What a kind man he is to help ! Highly beneficial .Thanks a lot.
Your very welcome, thank you
Always glad to be able to help my friend.
Cheers Craig. Although watching this has sent us down a Big Brother 1st series rabbit hole. Can't believe it's been 18 years since you won it!
I know time flys when your having fun! Glad you liked the video and though of me in BB
Its now 20 years this summer!
@@MrDIYCraigPhillips The first series was fantastic and I say that not liking reality tv. The magic was you knew you were being watched but you didn't know the magnitude of what a sensation it had become and so you were all still acting as yourselves. I did fear for you all at the time because I thought it would be very shocking when you all came out as probably some of the most famous people of the day. Thanks for the tiling video pal.👍
Your awesome bro absolute hero for that video so detailed... well done
Thank you Craig. That helped me to help friends of mine.
Thats great to hear.
Perfect
This is very helpful. Thank you.
That was so helpful.... he is such a likeable guy!
Thanks Katie x
Rrr thanks
Nice one Craig!
Your welcome
Is this the Big Brother Craig that was with 'Nasty Nick' and pencil gate?!
I met the craig in Faslane naval base about 15 years ago and he is literally about 5 foot tall, suprised me. Top guy.
Hi wetherhills,
He is very diminutive our Craig - he's very good at tiling down by the skirting board and in hard to reach places as a result!
Cheers,
Tile Mountain
I've grown since then! I can now tile over the kitchen worktops without a hop up! @@TileMountain1
I'm still waiting to grow, but I remember Faslane we did the makeover in the gym.
Great work Graig
Thanks
Your very welcome
Yes. Very helpful. Thank you.
Glad to be able to help
Well done 👍
Really well explained.
Many thanks
Thank you
Great tips helped us out
Hi Rob - thanks for your comment.
Glad to be of service! We aim to please ; )
Tile Mountain
Thanks
Second course will always be the same as the first one though? So why check it again if you are doing a brick work effect
A great big Ven dirty plan
Did Craig remove the spacers prior to grouting or grout over them? Doing my first ever tiling job in our wc soon and videos like this give me more confidence in doing so
Hi there,
Craig did indeed remove the spacers before grouting and we advise that you do to! Leaving them in and grouting over them can not only cause an uneven finish to grout joints but will mean that the joint itself is weaker at the point where a spacer has been grouted over (as the density of the grout is less).
Hope this helps!
Tile Mountain
Great video. What are your views on tiling an uneven work surface? Some recommend to fix a temporary batten to the wall in place of the first row of tiles, to ensure the level is 100% level all the way round, then come back and do the first row, trimming off the top if required.
Others however just say to start from the bottom row as the human eye won’t work out if it’s slightly wonky once done. Thanks
Hi Ed - thanks for your comment.
The reality is, as you say, that both approaches are viable methods.
Most people would tile straight to the wall if it's not too unlevel (and we would too!).
Hope this helps.
Tile Mountain
I'm with both you and @Tilemountian both methods could work, I'd also consider trying to level out the worktop by losing it off and packing below the worktop until it is level then starting level from the worktop, sitting the first course of tiles on just loos 2mm tile spacers that can be removed as soon as there set and dry. then once the rest of the wall is grouted you could silicon fill the bottom 2mm gap between the worktop and the first tile.
What's the best way of grouting bevel edge tiles? Rubber squeegee, foam pad or something else? Normal tiles I'm ok with but bevel edges are a new one on me!
Hi John - thanks for your comment.
When grouting around beveled edge tiles, we advise applying the grout to the beveled edge, then using either a rubber float or squeegee, pushing the grout into the joints. Next, clean the grout residue from the face of the tile using Fila Deterdek - www.tilemountain.co.uk/p/fila-deterdek-residue-remover.html .
Hope that helps - let us know how you get on and do share any photos of your completed project via our Facebook page or website as we award a £10 Amazon voucher for every image we use in our Customer Gallery!
Cheers,
Tile Mountain
John Smyth yes rubber squeegee should be fine
Great video would you use the same type of set up if you was tiling in a non brick bond style fashion in terms of laying out where the tiles should go etc and what the cuts would be at the ends
Hi stewie3ify - thanks for your comment.
In answer to your question - yes, you would dry lay and set out the tiles in a similar fashion. Start from the middle of the wall and work out the space that will be what is left at each end for your cuts.
Happy tiling!
Tile Mountain
nice to see avid let the craig out of the toilet so he could do tiling videos!😀
Ha!
Mr Merrion had his entire toilet retiled whilst Craig was 'living' there. Doesn't mess about our Craig!
; )
Tile Mountain
Tile Fixer I
Thank you please! @@TileMountain1
Avid maybe back soon!
Great video Craig. Should you do one level tile coarse at a time, working it across into the next wall or do you fill the walls in one wall at a time?
We would suggest to fill one wall first, then move onto the second wall. Once all walls are filled and the adhesive has cured, begin to grout.
I remember you from bo selecta 😂
Sherukla shaw
Hello Craig just a quick question. We are having our shower puting in and the tiles I want are small mosaic ones. About 3 X 2. But the tiler seems unsure how to tile them.
I've heard that they are not suitable about this. Would appreciate your answer..
Thanking you.
Hi Patricia - thanks for your comment.
Most mosaics, providing that they are ceramic or porcelain, should be suited to shower areas and locations where they'll be exposed to direct water.
Some, such as split-face mosaics, are often constructed from natural stone materials and cannot be grouted and therefore shouldn't be used where they'll get wet often as water will get behind them causing the adhesive to fail over time.
Without seeing the tiles you want to install (or having specific technical information on them), it is hard for us to answer your query, however, we hope the advice we have provided helps!
If you're still unsure, please feel free to call our customer services team on 01782 223822 - they'll be happy to help!
Thanks,
Tile Mountain
What size spacers are generally used for backsplash 1/16th or 1/8th in the kitchen. Thanks Mate...
We typically recommend a 2mm spacer for a wall and a 3mm spacer for a floor installation.
what if the kitchen tops are not level from one top to another !!
Hi Antony,
If the surfaces are not level then you will have to measure out and dry lay for each of the tiled areas to ensure a good finish. Alternatively, you could adjust the cuts on the bottom row so as to ensure consistent grout lines from one side of the splashback to the other (we're assuming you mean that the tiled area you want to create runs from one level countertop to another?).
Hope this helps.
Tile Mountain
Thankyou,think I have seen someone do what you are saying.
@@antonygilbey8068 Also it maybe worth considering trying to level the worktops if possible.
I'm tiling a splash back but then a piece a blank wall. I get and like the splash back method but how to I tile down to the floor when i get to he end of the work surface?
This would just be continued in the same wway you are tiling above the work surface. Tile Mountain
I always try to buy tiles with the bevel incorporated into the tile, so no need for spacers
Could tiles be laid on a painted wall ? Thanks in advance for your advice. Appreciated.
Hi BS Chan - thanks for your comment.
Before tiling onto a painted wall, we'd advise that you remove the pain as best you can. If you tile directly onto the painted surface the tiles will adhere to the paint and not the surface, increasing the risk of the tiles failing to stick or coming loose.
Hope this helps!
Tile Mountain
It is indeed very kind of you in answering my question and I shall follow your instruction accordingly. Thank you once again.
How do you finish the tiles on the vertical side if the wall ends abruptly?
Hi Peter - thanks for your comment.
We would suggest finishing an external edge/corner with a suitable tile trim.
For internal corners/edges, we would suggest finishing this with a bead of silicone sealant.
Hope this helps!
Cheers,
Tile Mountain
Thanks! Didn't think of that...I got some trim :)
No worries Peter.
Hope your tiling project goes well and that it looks great when you're finished!
Tile Mountain
Can these be installed on a wood surface?
Hi Kelvin - thanks for your comment.
You could apply these tiles directly to wood but as with any tiling project, you must ensure that the substrate you're attaching the tiles to is smooth and level. You should also use an adhesive that is flexible such as Mapei Keraquick: www.tilemountain.co.uk/p/keraquick-white-fast-setting-adhesive-20kg.html as this allows for a little movement.
Hope this helps!
Tile Mountain
Hi, do you use the same technique with an external corner, using bevel edged tiles? I'm expecting to miter them but cannot find a video showing how to. Thanks.
If you are worried about trying to mitre the tiles, you could use some tile beading which is most common for external corners. Tile Mountain.
Thanks for the helpful video. I'm planning to tile my new kitchen splash back but I see a potential problem. Where there's a window to go around, and the section under the window sill is going to be awkward (for example) 2 tiles plus a very small less than 1cm slither - is there a better and cleaner looking way of positioning the tiles, for example starting with the bottom row of tiles as half tiles? Having such a small piece under the window might look odd, but then, so could starting with half a tile on the bottom row.
Hi Justin - thanks for your comment.
It's entirely down to your preference really...
On a 'normal' wall would advise locating the cuts at the bottom and top where they are less noticeable. However, they'd probably be similarly unnoticeable under a windowsill, so we guess it's down to what you're comfortable with.
Tile Mountain
Why did he not show us how to cut the tiles - thats the hardest bit.
debstar2005 we did separate videos for that
We do have other videos on our Chanel showing how to cut tiles
What about the edges?????
With Beveled tile jobs you have to explain how to finish the edges!!!!
Hi 2melapelasway - thanks for your comment.
In answer to your question, under circumstances where the bevel will be apparent (e.g half wall) we recommend fitting a trim - general rule of thumb we advise a trim at least 2mm thicker than the tile (not every metro tile is the same thickness!).
If you do not want to trim the edges, the other option would be to use a silicone sealant to ensure everything is watertight.
Hope this helps.
Tile Mountain
@@TileMountain1 Shh,it's a secret.
I hope the black pu
“Splashback?”
Yes, but pronounced 'schplaschback' if you're a scouser.