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Hive Beetle Control 7 2015
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- Опубліковано 10 лип 2015
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When you open your box, before you take out your beetle blaster, use the rounded part of your hive tool and run it hard along the edges of the trap where they hide and crush them. If you don't, they'll just run back down your frames...I love the sound of that crunch!
found your blog. very nicely done. Easy to follow, no fluff, just good Information that you know, not Info you googled just to make a blog post. thanks
That is a helpful video 👍🏼
You'r pretty good buddy easy fast and to the point
Good video.
Correct me if I'm wrong but Hydrolyzed Lime dust is not the same as Horticultural Hydrated Lime? Hydrated lime is a toxic pesticide and warns you to where protective gear when handling. Hydrolyzed Lime is nontoxic?
Just wondering, i'm knew, would you use diatomaceous earth?
Excellent, I had to use thumb tacks to get them to stay down
lime dust?? so no vegatable oil? interesting. Where can I buy lime dust? thanks!
so the dust kills the SMB?? interesting. it doesnt kill the bees on top? thanks!
Great Video. I found the Horticultural Hydrated Lime product on Amazon so I'll give this a shot since I'm in SW Florida. New to beekeeping so this was very helpful. Thank you
Hey Tim...this is stan...you have a amazon link? I use vegatble oil but this stuff really works?? thanks!!
Hi Stan. No. I ended up not buying the lime dust. I found food grade Diatomaceous Earth works just as well... as does using un scented swifter sheets
Hey Tim....well heck.. I use DE under my bees all ready....So you have had no issues putting inside beetle trap around bees. I heard that dust is bad news if bees get in it...so just fill half way and wipe top off real good? thanks!
Also Tim...where is the best place to buy food grade DE? I have a hard time finding it. thanks!
Correct. Key word is "..if bees get in it" .. basically same as with the vegetable oil. The bees wont fit inside the beetle trap, so it will be okay just wipe off the top like you said... even if you fill it less than half full with DE it will work
Can I ask the directions or recipe for the borax and Crisco, Thanks
The traps are helpful but I was losing about half my hives per year to beetles. Then I made a change and the beetles seem to have been minimized. Open screened bottom boards, mounted my hives on ant proof stands, and then I stopped killing the ant mounds that popped up near my hives.
Ants are our #1 hive beetle killers but we seem to have made killing ants a religion. Every beekeeper I know has ant problems, and is constantly killing them. Bee's bring ants they will slip into the top of a hive and rob honey if allowed but otherwise they will eat every beetle larva and beetle that drops out of the hive.
Wood carver ants will haul away beetles, and all ants (ok I still don't let fire ants hang around) will make a buffet out of larva. Honestly I realized I think sometimes we're too stupid to realize nature is trying to help us. Just like birds that vulch a few bee's drop wildflower seeds everywhere. Ants move in near hives for a reason and it's not just stealing honey. Dead bee's are constantly being pushed out of the hive. The ants cart them off, as well as beetles, beetle larva, and and hive trash.
can I spread diatomaceous on the ground also, to kill shb ?
What are your thoughts on using Diatomaceous Earth instead of the Hydrolyzed Lime Dust?
or fine salt
Fine Salt? What is the thinking on the salt.
Comparisons can be made between table salt and diatomaceous earth, both kill bugs by sticking to their waxy exoskeleton and causing dehydration. Diatomaceous earth is 2 - 5 times more effective at absorbing water than salt depending on how dry the DE is to start with. Both gum up joints. The salt must be FINE not table salt - dust . .