Detailed video how to replace BMW timing chain guides, (m62tu) not a time lapse video but how to.
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- Опубліковано 30 січ 2017
- This is a detailed video on how to replace BMW timing chain guides (m62tu). Replacing your BMW timing chain guides is a time-consuming job, but anyone can do it with basic automotive skills.
We go step by step on how to replace the BMW timing chain guides, easy to understand instructions.
This is a long video, so be sure to subscribe and take your time watching the video replace BMW timing chain guides.
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If you are looking for BMW Torque Specs look here:
how2fixvideos.com/BMW_torque_specs.html
Glenn 3505
Glenn 3505
Great! Thank you for this also!
says page not found
Glenn if I change the oil pump on my 2005 range rover 4.4 if it will change my timing
Not gonna lie i thought it was a lot harder to do but gives me a reason to do it myself now
dif you make it bro by yourself? :D
Just completed the job and started the car and it runs great! Could not have done it without your video so thanks you very much. You are awesome
How long did the job take you, I'm about to start mine 😢
@@brianbonilla9276 depending on the labour itself it will take for an amateur like me around 2 days. It took me a week because I had to wait on some extra parts which I replaced while in there
Thanks for the video. I like that you did it in the car as opposed to out on a stand. It's good to see it how most of us are going to try and complete the job.
God bless U for that wonderfull spirit of sharing. 👍
Glad to know we are all hear and tired of bmw problems… like for no more bad luck 😂
You make it look so easy. Doing it yourself is quite another matter! Thanks for this excellent video, Glenn.
Im in the process of doing this right now on a 2000 740 after it sitting for a year+. I broke the pin that locks the flywheel to the housing and had to custom make a tool lock the crankshaft when removing the harmonic ballancer bolt (the jesus bolt) Nice slab of 3/16 steel plate long enough to reach the ac compressor 1 7/8" hole with 8 bolt holes and 1 for the index pin. I keep coming back to this vid its done so well.... but i did notice at approximately 42:00~42:10 a drip under the passenger side gap between the radiator and the ac compressor... hope you caught that!!! All this plastic on these old vehicles really likes to break easy. THANK you for sharing this vid!!!
Thanks for the no-nonsense video. I'm about to do my 2nd TCG, this time because of Vanos failure, and 10+ years of mostly troublefree driving has passed so I was watching a couple of videos to assess how many cold ones do I need ;-) lol.
this video cleared up so much confusion, amazing step by step video. great work! thank you for being in depth with detail
Glad it helped
this is awesome presentation, and just think all that work is because somebody did NOT do proper service at the right time,if oil and coolant is good the repair would not be needed.
AWESOME JOB GLEN
Ain't no way I could've done it without this video
Glade it could help you. The next time it will be easier.
This doesn’t look as bad as I was expecting. I’m planning on buying an E65 or V8 E60 and plan on doing this immediately. Thank you so much for sharing.
Glenn, this was amazin! Thank you so much for providing all these details
You have done a exxxxxxcellant job in the rebuild of that BMW engine..Really
Really awesome video very thorough, definitely going to help in a lot of ways with my 1998 740i.. thank you very much
Hi, probably one of the best instuctual videos on UA-cam, thanks for taking the time to do this,...if your ever in Scotland I've got work for you :)...I wish you well for 2020...
this is a very good video, thanks.
Great video, My go to for timing chain along with one other gentleman. This is my 3rd guide replacement on my 3rd car. runs like a champ. Thanks!
Do you mind if I can ask you. I am working on mine.
@@kiliawta ?
Greatly appreciated...i have been able to keep up and smooth sailing
Thanks for the response Icy I went ahead and made a tool I wish I can send you a picture of it but it looks like it will work great!
Great video! Thanks for taking this on! I'm subscribed.
Just did my intake manifold, valley pan, water pump, couple of hoses, tensioner, etc and at first I thought it was done for but it turned out to be the oil residue I didn’t clean off my intake manifold and now it’s good. Can’t wait to have to do the timing chain, I bet that’ll be fun!
Thanks for this - really informative
Excellent Video. Thank you for sharing
Thanks for the informative video and great interior in that 540
Thanks, Glenn pretty straight forward task
Really appreciate you doing this. I am currently looking to purchase an E38 so this is quite helpful. Would you be able to provide of list of tools needed to handle this job?
Thanks, very informative.
Glenn, you sir, are a scholar. That is the best, bar none, guides replacement video I have ever seen. Well constructed and moves fast to each dismantlement. Excellent. I feel confident to start this on my 130K 2001 540i. The only question I have, here in the UK, is will I finish the job before combustion engines are made illegal by the climate nuts.
Pretty simple I'm ready to do this
nice video, and awesome sound, that's the thanks the car gives u
Great video. Thanks for sharing!
I am a novice and this was a very good source of information.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for all the help!
This is great video. Will watch it again tomorrow
Great work, I learned a lot from your video thanks!
If you like I have a page that explains how the Vanos works take a look.
how2fixvideos.com/Understand_BMW_Vanos.html
Having a go at mine this week
Thank you Great Video!
Excellent Job Glenn, glad to see a very detailed explanation, looking forward to watching this several times as I do this job to my 2004 HSE I picked up for $2000.00 Not looking forward to doing this job but gotta do what we gotta do! Thanks for all the great tips!!
What a deal
I've also gotten an L322 with the M62 engine. The guides are really bad and currently I am in process of replacing the guides. I hope to be finished by the next 5 days as I am only able to put 30 minutes to 2 hours each day.
great video. Alot of work. This is one of those things were you are so involved in the engine where do u stop replacing stuff lol.. seriously though esp with a German engine i would want to keep replacing parts since im in there already..
Thank you so much!
Wow! Amazing job! Nicely done! Thank you for sharing with us!
Thank you too!
Glenn I have a 2001 740il which needs to replaced the valve covers gaskets along with timing chain gasket, I watched you video and I love it but unfortunately I don't have none of those tools to do the job myself the question is where you located at and can you do that type of job for me?
If you're in California.
I'm in Bakersfield CA.
Thank you very much and great video...
Thank you Jesus...I got my 2001 740i done. replaced everything in there new. My tech did not lose a single bolt/nut. I mostly cleaned everything as it was taken apart. I totally appreciate the effort needed to complete this job. I finished the job by having my valve covers powder coated black. The car runs beautifully. 110,000 miles......Oh, i forgot to mention the water pump was changed at 70,000-miles.and that tech was good too, but he never told me he replaced the vanos and timing chain as well. My paranoia was unfounded. There was never a problem about to happen. Now I am good for 100,000-more miles. Cosmos black, Zionville radiator, all new ...everything.I spent approximately $5,000 for all this, and the car is concourse condition. It goes with my second car...a 2015 Porsche, Cayman GTS, color white.....just sayin...;-)
About a year. How did your 7er hold up?
@@FiendTheatre Still my best complement to my garage of two, plus the motorcycles of course....best cars, both of them.
Hey Glenn I followed your steps and my truck was running good for like three months now I have a p1300 on 1-4 side at first it was the 5-8 side I am sure I have to do everything all over again but this time my 1-4 cam will not stay locked in place 😞 it seems to be spring loaded?
Glenn - couple of questions. 1. I am a bit confused about the pin for TDC. Do I need to leave the harmonic balancer off after I place the pin? I don't see how removing the harmonic balancer first changes anything. Also, I'm struggling with removing the harmonic balancer. I've removed the bolts around it but it won't budge. Any ideas? Do I need a special puller?
Do you have to do the timing if you never touched the vanos at all. All I did was replace the guides and the big chain. Thanks for a very good DIY video!
Yes, if any of those parts are removed the timing will move and have to be reset. It is the cam that moves and the valves will not open and close at the right time.
first of all thanks for taking your time to explain this and I Love the video! but at 18:35 you had a crankshaft bolt in the engine and at 18:36 it was gone! what did you use to take it off? a lot of people forget this part but it is the most important part!
You are right I never caught that point. It must have got accidentally cut out. That bolt is very hard to get off. Thay make a crankshaft holder or what I do is, set the car on the ground and put it in top gear "6 or 5" with the e-brake on and pin in the flywheel and use a breaker bar with a piece of pipe to break it loose.
Hello. Really enjoy your BMW DIY videos. Thanks for putting many together. I have a question, I started doing my chain guides on my 2000 540i M62TU ordered all the parts need including the timing tools. I got the new guides on (I just replace the main guided not the shoe guides on top) and the timing tool tensioner. I didn't touch Vanos sprockets throughout the process because I was just replacing the main guides. At that point I decide to remove the cam locks and crank pin to hand rotate the engine to check my work and it skipped tooth smh. Causing the driver side cams to rotate, but not the passenger side. My question. Is there an easy way to fix this? I rotated back to top dead, But the cams on both sides are clearly not positioned correctly. Any help would be graciously accepted. Thanks again
You can move the cams with the chain off. But be careful not to push on a valve. If you fell resistance stop and move the the crank a little until the cam moves free. Once you have the cams in the right place you can put the crank in TDC.
Thanks again I will try it your awesome 😎
Is it normal for the cams to rotate after the timing and cam sensor wheels are set and then the blocks removed? After I set the timing and cam sensor (using the right tools) I removed the cam blocks and the intake cams rotated a little like the valve springs pushed against the cam lobes. Was just hoping you are monitoring this and can confirm they do or shouldnt rotate (90Ftlbs on cam sprockets, 35Ftlbs on cam sensor nut)
I had a P0021 in my 01' 740i after doing a full timing guide replacement. I used the cheaper kit. As you probably already know, Bank 2 is driver side (in a LHD car). I removed and replaced the valve cover about 15 times, making small adjustments each time to the cam timing wheel/cog. Finally got this thing to work. I removed the torx in the front of the timing cover and a little at a time rotated the timing wheel, reassembled, cleared codes, started it, restarted it. If you have a P0021, you don't have to re-time it entirely (unless maybe you're off by a tooth, though not sure how you can really do that). I put a long punch through the timing hole (torx bolt hole in upper timing cover) and my correct timing was just on the right margin of the hole in the timing wheel. So, in other words, the punch was just right of center of the hole in the timing wheel.
This is why you need to use the timing kit- you have to have everything exactly as it was taken apart, or you'll be chasing cam codes forever.
Great Video Glenn. I'm performing a timing chain procedure on a M62 as well. I have a question regarding aligning the exhaust and intake shaft shaft at TDC with the Crankshaft. Mine is off because, my first procedure was trying to replace the main tensioner. However, one good thing is that I'm able to make a complete rotation by turning the crankshaft. So, there is no head damage. I'm have purchased the vans tool kit. My question is what do i loosen or remove to align the exhaust and intake cams in agreement with the Crankshaft. Can you explain or provide some insight into this procedure?
You need to loosen both the intake and exhaust cam gears ( clockwise to loosen ) . Then put the cam alignment tool on. Then set everything. Watch the video again it is much easier to see how. It will help you understand.
Im doing mine as we speak on my 740. Had a 540i too i never time the vanos or use a new chain and ive put 30 thousand kms. On it only reason for redo is mil light is on. Im not removing the bittom cover either i lock the cams lift the chain and put the chain back on the vanos gears
Thank you.
Hey, Glenn. Thanks for the information. This and your water pump replacement video got me on the right track. I'm now trying to locate the tool you used to time the engine so I can get my engine timed. What is it called?
If you google BMW 4.4, 540 or 740 Timing Tool Kit a lot will come up. If you think you will only be doing this 1 or 2 times a low cost one will work fine.
Following and Subscribed
Hi Glenn,how easy is it or I mean difficult to remove cylinder heads with engine in situ on an E38 740i M62 V8.
I have head gasket failure.
Thanks in advance.
whats that tool called that you put on the vanos gear that bolts to the valve cover bolts?
Glen, I have BMW E70 4.8 2007 , I need to replace the headgasket, so is it the only way to remove the valve head is to remove the timing chain first? Look like we have to do that. It doubles up the work (including lower timing cover and crankshaft wheel) . Just need your confirmation, thanks!
You do not have to remove the lower timing cover to remove the head. BUT, you have to be careful not to let the chain fall in side the lower cover ( tie it up ). Also if the timing guides have a lot of miles on them I would just replace them, you are half way there. I don't know what is wrong with your head gasket but I have had head gasket with a antifreeze leak and used a head gasket sealer that stopped the leak and lasted many miles. I sold the car but never had a problem as long as I owned it
Hi That was a great video.... No it wasn't it was far better than that .....Thank you!!!!
I agree w/ you on using jack stands when working underneath a vehicle. A person I knew had a son who died when the car fell on him.
I also had a cousin killed when a car fell on him. That is why I try to tell people it is no joke.
should I do this for a 2006 4.4 X5? it has well over 200k on it.
Thank you kind sir. I will do as you suggest. I have owned e39's for awhile. I am familiar with this problem in the past and through the internet. I was an engineer before medicine. I'm sure I could come up with a retrofit fix for these. The question is whether or not these engines are too old to invest $30k to $40k to get the products to sell? Do you think there would still be a demand in the next 10 years? It actually won't be that hard.
I think the only people that will still have the e39 in 10 years will be collectors.
I have a question Glenn where did you get the timing kit with all 3 pieces in aluminum? thank you i appreciate your help. really informative video will be doing mine soon.
I got it on E-bay, I forget what seller. If you get all 3 in aluminum,
looking at the engine the one on the right has a pin that it sits on
you need to take out the pin and put a bolt in it's place. A lot of
the replacement guides are all aluminum.
thank you for your help i really do appreciate it
Great video very detailed and lots of help!
i do jave a question though, What were the cost of all the parts that you had to replace, and what parts did you have to purchase. I'm playing on doing mine myself and want to know the primary parts i need to get the job done
Some of the cost depends, to buy the
tools you need can be about $200.00 - $600.00. if you don't do this
everyday a low cost set will do. Mine are low cost I have used them
about 7-8 times and they starting to show wear. It is easy to buy a
timing chain kit with everything you need. Around $500.00 with out
the chains, if you want to put new chains on it will cost a little
more. just google (BMW timing chain guide kit for sale)
I just completed the timing procedure and it runs but it sounds like it had a knock. Also the code is reading bank 1 intake over advance. I know the intake cam shifted slightly when I removed the blocks. So you think that is the issue? Others have suggested a position sensor
I would Check the timing, I know it is a pain but it is easy to get a little off. I have gone back and reset the timing more then once. If you put the TDC pin in and pull the valve covers you can put the timing blocks on and check for continuity. If you don't have continuity then take the rest of the top apart and reset the timing.
Great video ,thank you
I'm going to do mine on the next decent temperature day we have here in ny
You are like me, I am outside DC and think that can wait till it gets warm. Some times it can and some times it can't.
I am your huge fan, but can you please show us how did you pull CrankShaft pulley out of this vehicle? I will wait for your reply. Thanks
If you are talking about the pulley there are just 6 bolts and the pulley will just fall off. If you are talking about the center bolt this is hard to get off. What I do is put the engine in top gear pull the break as hard as you can and put the TDC pin in the flywheel. If the car still moves you can put blocks under the tires. I have a 2 foot long breaker bar then I put a pipe on it and pull, it will break loose. After you take the bolt out the center hub will just pull off. BMW makes a crankshaft holder you can buy. I have heard you can break the pin or damage the flywheel doing it my way but I have never had a problem this way. I am using about 4 foot of bar to get the bolt out, and yes I have broke breaker bars and sockets.
Thanks for your reply.
21:20 "...free up so we can..." -ty
thanks man
im doing an 01 x5 4.4, its crazy
did this engine have a knocking sound when you removed the oil cap? My x5 is making a noise with the cap off and has a dead cylinder or bad misfire idling or under load. any thoughts?
Sounds like you have something else going on. But it is possible it is the timing chain. If it is bad enough the timing will be off and it could cause a misfire. If it is that bad to cause a misfire you can take the oil pan off and you will see pieces of the timing chain in the pan. If the pan is clean it is something different.
Great great video 👍🏻
Thank you 👍
Did you remove the crankshaft pulley bolt only using the flywheel pin to hold it? Please clarify. Thanks
REPLY
Most people ask this question, yes I only use the pin. That bolt is on there I use a breaker bar and a 2' pipe. I have broke my breaker bar before but I have not broke a pin. I think there is a risk the pin will sheer off but like anything I don't know how many tools I have broke over the years.
Glenn be careful here, I really enjoy your information so far BUT...you have to use a crankshaft holder. If you push against the flywheel pin you can either crack the case or warp or break your flexplate. Someone might read what you wrote and have a huge issue regardless. The tools is only $60 and I would recommend you profess to use one, at least publicly.
Awesome video. I seen some people replace the tensioner as well. I'm taking it apart today. Is there a way to test the tensioner to make sure it's okay?
I don't know how you could test it but if the belt was not slipping I would think it is ok.
@@Glennfix I'm talking about the one inside where the chain guides are.
I opened everything last night and got all the plastic out of the way. Debating if I need to replace that and the chains as well
If you don't. Remove the torx sprokets the intake cam moves. Mine keeps moving on its own everytime i remove the licks
i just had the timing jump on me with a new guide but a faulty tensioner. just a heads up that an intact guide does not guarantee safety if ur tensioner is bad
friend good night!!! what was the diagnosis that led you to change the current distribution, some different noise
I could tell most when I first started the engine it would rattle, sounds like a knock. It would settle down once the car ran a little. When it idle it would sound like it had a knock. But if you listen close you could tell it was coming from the front of the engine.
Glenn 3505 was this noise like a rattle pingy noise? Maybe the chains are loose? How long do you think I have at this point before it breaks down it’s my money maker
Glenn, quick question - I broke a bolt on the lower timing cover while doing water pump, it will not come out. Can I remove lower cover only to get bolt out, or do I need to take off everything above too? I don't need my guides done, etc. just need to remove the lower cover if possible. Thanks
You probably have to take everything apart. The top covers push down on the bottom cover. You also have to take the lower oil pan off to get to the bolts on the bottom. If you never took the lower cover off, I would just leave it and see what happens (If it is just one bolt). Usually, you have to use a small amount of pressure to pry the cover off. It should be sealed and will probably be okay, but there is always a chance it will leak.
Hi! Glenn Do I have to time the vanos even though I didn't remove them?
If you did not take any of the vanos lose you do not have to set the timing. But the timing could be off from wear. To be clear, the timing is something you set one time and unless you take something lose it never needs to be set until it is replaced.
How did the passenger side tensioner remain in place when you removed the socket holding it in place during re assembly
You should leave all the timing tools on and the chain should stay in place then you just push the chain in and put the timing chain cover back on. Once the timing chain cover is back on you can put the chain tensioner back on.
You have to drop the subframe to replace the bottom chain cover gasket? You have tutorial video on this? This is where my oil is leaking
Sorry I do not have a video on that. But if it is leaking in the front you can get to it by removing the bottom chain cover. then use form-a-gasket on it.
I have a question and i hope you’ll answer it. My chain was loose enough to get it of the engine without loosening the star bit sprockets you talk about around 21:20. I can put it back on without touching the star bit sprockets aswell. Is this a bad idea/is this possible? Or do i mess up the timing if i do it this way?
There is a chain tensioner in the right (passenger in the US) side chain cover. This holds the chain tight. The chain has to be tight to set the timing. You should watch the video again. To see it, I used a socket to hold the chain tight.
Glenn 3505 first i want to thank you for the reply. I get what you’re saying but i could remove my chain from the camshafts without loosening the left thread star bit screw and i can but it back on there without loosening those screws. Can i do the job this way or do need to loosen the star bits that are on the vanos things/ the camshafts?
Here's a question. With the chain guides worn right out, and major slack in the chain, will that allow enough timing discrepancy to get valve to piston contact.
Yes, and I have a video of how to take the head off. It will bend the valves
I can't find anywhere to order the OSV valve that you're talking about. Where did you source yours?
FCP Euro has one www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-pcv-oil-separator-540-740-11151705272oe?ads_cmpid=352576039&ads_adid=22972407319&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=85218275839&ads_targetid=aud-1020666087795:pla-327620319311&ttv=2&gclid=Cj0KCQiAq5meBhCyARIsAJrtdr5135yGM3Sulzg-QXR5pV1CjSEcZqOpYRcozWuUTpOKRVg_Fv54JSgaAkHgEALw_wcB#fitment
Does the N46 engine have big problems? Avoid? (for the X3 2005-2006 year, petrol 2.0i)
I do not know much about the N46 engine, try posting it on are Forum and may be someone has more experience with it.
forum.how2fixvideos.com/
This is my dream
Car and know I feel like I can buy one thank you sir I just wish someone could help me
Find the custom tool I need for the job for a good price
I've got a chance to get one that had this done but he thinks he's one tooth off on right bank, is it a time bomb running like that? Seems to run decent with cel on, I haven't look real hard into it but your video is real informative, what would you suggest?
If the timing is off even a little it will idle bad when you drive it it will smooth out some. If it is off a lot you can damage engine but will run horrible. the phrase (off one tooth ) does not work with BMW engines. The top cam gears turn to set the timing so as long as the bottom is at top dead center it does not matter where you start with the chain. If someone says it is off one tooth it means they don't know. They would say "the timing is off". I would use a coed reader to see what it says. I buy things like this but I always look at the worst case, Like it will need another engine or a engine rebuild that way I wont be disappointed.
Guy said he thinks, it's got the rattle when it starts but it does smooth out, hasn't ran in couple months and seemed like it didn't lack any power at all, I can get it real cheap and he's fixed a lot of cosmetic stuff in the car, I was hoping it would last a few months being so old but it was well cared for the most part, I'm gonna put good gas in it and change the oil, he said it threw an out of time code and said it was possible that it was cam position sensor, I'm debating on tearing it down but don't really have the time
Thanks for the reply
If my m62tu stopped running because of the timing chain guides, do I alway have to check for bent valves? Taking the heads off would be so much work.
If you were driving and the chain guides came apart there are probably bent valves. You can see from the top of the engine. If the cam is in a position where it is not pushing down on the valve it should be tight against the cam. If it is bent there will be a gap from the cam to the valve. You can turn over the engine by hand and check all the valves. If you have resistance don't force it. If the engine won't turn over you may have to take the cams off ( the timing is off) then you can see if all the valves come all the way out, if they are bent they won't come all the way out.
Hi Glen, Is it normal for the inlet camshaft to rotate slightly (15 degrees approx) on removal of the timing blocks. The movement is coming through the vanos.
Yes, After you remove the blocks the cam will rotate.
Thank you, that's good news.
Nice work and vid, I’m a noob to this engine do you think I can get this done with no experience on this engine just following you’re video or is that me being heroic ?
That depends on how comfortable you feel about working on cars. The worst part about this job is the timing. Getting it right the first time, timing tools are a must. The rest is straight forward. BMW engine is the only engine like this. There is a first time for everything. Double and triple check the timing. It is a lot of work taking it back apart to reset the timing. I have had to do this before you will be cussing. After you set the timing turn the engine over by hand a couple of times and check it again.
Glenn 3505 Thanks for the info. I’m not bad on cars generally just new to the v8. Looks a bit daunting. The timing Part I think I will get assistance with I’m not to confident there. Il use this vid as a guide for everything else it’s spot on. 👍🏼
So exactly how do you keep the chain tight while removing your socket and putting on the cover and installing that bolt or whatever that keeps the chain right
The chain will sag but it will not change timing. Just lift the chain to go inside the cover and when you put the chain tensioner in the chain will tighten back up.
Thanks, great video. I am curious, what is the longest life you know of before timing chain guides are bad? I recently has the rattle death on cold start only, so I replaced cam chain tensioner which removed noise, obviously, the first I heard it, I took care of it knowing driving with loose chain tension wipes out guides. I checked upper guide when I changed valve cover gaskets and it didn't look warn at all, so it promoted this question, how long to chain guides last on a carefully maintained engine using only synthetic oil and best oil filters at 7500 intervals? I have 230K on 03 X5 4.4. I have next to zero oil consumption between changes, most is half a quart, no valve seal smoke, so I am trying to determine what is average life of timing chains and valve seals? Anyone have any data on these question?
Thanks,.
If you have 230,000 miles on it, it is overdue. Most will tell BMW included
it should be done around 150,000. The biggest danger is when you are driving down the road at 60, and they come apart, it will bend the valves.
"I believe" the age has something to do with it also as they are plastic. I have a 99 540, and it only had 120,000 I changed them just to be safe. I had a 740il they came apart driving down the road, and I can tell you it is twice the work to pull the head and replace valves.
@@Glennfix Thanks, yes, I know I am on borrowed time, but 4.4 is purring like it was new, doesn't burn any oil, so I wondered just how far I can go, and if it does let go suddenly, as with many BMW's, it is not going to be worth repairing anyhow. Seems most replace engines instead. I dread doing timing chain and having to buy cam lock tool set just for one time repair. I would think I would hear warning if guides do let go.
@39:21 do you keep the vanos tool on there while you tighten that nut?
Yes, keep all the vanos tools on till everything is torqued. after
everything is torqued check everything one more time. Remove all your
tools and check again. like a carpenter once told me measure twice and
cut once it is some thing you only want to do once you can not check
everything enough.
Curious on how many miles were on the engine, I have 99k on my 740il and trying to figure out when I should do the timing chains and guides. Any recommendations?
People say about 150,000 mine was a 99 it had about 130,000. It was making noise sounds like a knock at idle, and when I first started it. I think age has some thing to do with it, the car is almost 20 years old. I did it because, better safe then sorry.
Thanks for the heads up. Engine still sounds good, will monitor and if I hear any knocks or by 130k I will do it. I appreciate the reply.
Where did you get the Cam sensor tool bolt? Does bolts comes with the Kit? Please let me know. I am planning to perform this job for my BMW 740il 2001. This will be my first time doing mechanical work.
If you google (bmw timing tools) a lot will come up. Ebay and Amazon seam to have the best price.
@@Glennfix Thanks for your quick responses. Thanks
A good question was asked on a different video I thought I would re-post it here so others could read.
The question (What code were you getting for the intermittent CEL?)
I am all most sure it was coming from the OSCV valve (Oil Separator Crankcase Vent
Valve) that go's behind one of the timing guide. The code would come up as small emission leak. I was thinking gas cap, or something to do with one of the emission lines. If it was one of the emission lines it could be hard to find. That is why I did not mess with it to much because it would come on and then go off, it stayed off about 90% of
the time.
Great video!
My car threw up the "stop engine oil pres low" on its info line. Haven't had the chance to put it up yet, but what are the chances that the oil pump chain is loose on an M62TU?
7, ~130k miles, 16yo, third owner, pretty sure never been done.
I enjoyed this. How do you do the crank bolt?
It is a hard bolt to get off. The best way I found is I put the car in top gear and put the e-brake on, you can block the wheels so the car wont move then use a big pipe on a breaker bar.
@@Glennfix thanks, so with an auto would the timing pin be strong enough?