Great! Now you get to fix a DPS leak, a DPS sticking sensor, or better yet (you are in saltwater) a failed block pipe plug, causing salt water to shoot EVERYWHERE! I've been an outboard mechanic for over 25 years (factory trained and certified). If that is all you've seen, you are one of the lucky ones. There is a reason production stopped. And it wasn't covid. Breaks my heart to say this, I grew up with Evinrude! But I know from experience the G2 was a major step backwards from the G1.
Yeah, I bought these motors because they were already on a 30 foot Intrepid center console. I knew the motors probably wouldn't last long, so that was all part of the negotiations. Whenever the motors ran like they were supposed to, they were amazing, but I could never get more than a few trips out of them before I had to fix something.
@@ericdavi1231 That was the worst part, when they did run, they had the best sound and more power than any other outboard on the market. They just didn't do enough long-term testing to work the bugs out. Not sure if they even did any saltwater testing.
@@jamesparrish9613 I said the exact same thing! Those motors needed more testing before they were released to the public. The reason why I kept fixing them was because of how good they would run. It was a trap that kept sucking me in. But finally I had to cut my losses and repower.
I have a 2016 E-TEC 200HO G2 and I need about $5k worth of work, including a new fuel reservoir and resealing the heads. Support in my area, SWFL, is difficult to find. So I was really thinking about repowering instead. I was looking at going with a Suzuki 200 inline 4, but I ran across your videos and now I pretty sure I can tackle this job myself. Thank you so much for posting these maintenance/repair videos.
Yeah, looking back the reseal job was a huge success. This video was of me doing the second motor. I already had gone several trips on the first motor I did. Keep saving your money though. When the DPS steering takes a crap, you’re done!
@@ericdavi1231 Yeah I figure the steering and the ECM will be the death of the engine. Hopefully I can get another 3 to 5 years out of her. I would be great to for you to do a video and compare the performance of your E-TEC's to the new Yamaha's that you put on. Question what years where you E-TEC's and how many hours did you get out of them?
@@joeythedime1838 top speed with the G2s with 23 pitch props on a 30 Intrepid was 58mph at 5800 RPM. Best cruise was low 30s getting 2mpg. With the Yamahas top speed is 61 mph with 21 pitch props turning 5600 rpm. Best cruise is low 30s getting 2.1-2.2 mpg, 40 mph is 1.8…. I bought the boat used with the intention of fixing it up. It was a retired police boat. The G2s were 2016 and had 3000 hours on them. From the looks of it, it seems that the DPS steering had already been repaired twice before I attempted it.
21:00 As far as I know, you do not have to be worried about clogging the passages. The block passages are sealed and don't continue in the head and vice versa. The purpose of those passages is for the lost foam casting process. The only hole having a mating hole on the other side is the big one at the bottom of the head.
@@ericdavi1231 No problem. I think that just made it better... After years with salt water enviroment... The grease keeps the water away wich is good! :) Did you say that they had run over 3000 hours?
@@365mechanic6 yup! It was a police boat before I bought it. The plan has been to repower all along. But I’m going to keep milking these things as long as I can.
@@365mechanic6 I really think the steering system is going to be what finally puts these motors in the junkyard. I’ve already had the steering sensors, module and pump motor changed, but if the stern and swivel goes out, that’s it for these things. I’m not spending $6,000
@@ericdavi1231 yep! I know. Working on G2 every day and Stern and svivels make me exhuasted. So much work to replace pressure sensors too… i know someone replace Them with the engine on the svivel just removing the DPS manifoil but thats no Good way to do it. You dont know if all o-rings Get in the right place+You Get oil everywhere….
@ 46:25 is an old drag racing motor tuner's trick, and was done with adding seal washers until your electrode was facing away from the center of the cylinder to give the most direct spark to the center of the cylinder access. Has Evinrude ( or any other mechanic) mentioned any cause for these o-rings to fail? Outside of overheating due to a cooling failure, you figure this should not happen unless there was some kind of design/production/assembly failure to cause it.
It’s not the orings the leak, it’s the cheap ass silicone they use to seal the water passages. It’s never overheated since I had it. I just noticed all the corrosion under the cowling. I noticed the water leak when I changed the fuel filter and was running the motor on the hose to make sure I had put the fuel filter back on correctly. According to the Evinrude forum on Facebook, a lot of these G2s do this.
Hi there, I see you have a particular sheet your working off when you are applying the locktight, is this out of the service manual and would you have a link to these pages?
Love your repair and maintenance videos, keep the Evinrudes alive!
Thank you, they live to see another day!!
Great! Now you get to fix a DPS leak, a DPS sticking sensor, or better yet (you are in saltwater) a failed block pipe plug, causing salt water to shoot EVERYWHERE! I've been an outboard mechanic for over 25 years (factory trained and certified). If that is all you've seen, you are one of the lucky ones. There is a reason production stopped. And it wasn't covid. Breaks my heart to say this, I grew up with Evinrude!
But I know from experience the G2 was a major step backwards from the G1.
Yeah, I bought these motors because they were already on a 30 foot Intrepid center console. I knew the motors probably wouldn't last long, so that was all part of the negotiations. Whenever the motors ran like they were supposed to, they were amazing, but I could never get more than a few trips out of them before I had to fix something.
@@ericdavi1231 That was the worst part, when they did run, they had the best sound and more power than any other outboard on the market. They just didn't do enough long-term testing to work the bugs out. Not sure if they even did any saltwater testing.
@@jamesparrish9613 I said the exact same thing! Those motors needed more testing before they were released to the public. The reason why I kept fixing them was because of how good they would run. It was a trap that kept sucking me in. But finally I had to cut my losses and repower.
@@ericdavi1231 what you running now ?
@@wingding028 twin 300 Yamahas
I have a 2016 E-TEC 200HO G2 and I need about $5k worth of work, including a new fuel reservoir and resealing the heads. Support in my area, SWFL, is difficult to find. So I was really thinking about repowering instead. I was looking at going with a Suzuki 200 inline 4, but I ran across your videos and now I pretty sure I can tackle this job myself. Thank you so much for posting these maintenance/repair videos.
Yeah, looking back the reseal job was a huge success. This video was of me doing the second motor. I already had gone several trips on the first motor I did. Keep saving your money though. When the DPS steering takes a crap, you’re done!
@@ericdavi1231 Yeah I figure the steering and the ECM will be the death of the engine. Hopefully I can get another 3 to 5 years out of her. I would be great to for you to do a video and compare the performance of your E-TEC's to the new Yamaha's that you put on. Question what years where you E-TEC's and how many hours did you get out of them?
@@joeythedime1838 top speed with the G2s with 23 pitch props on a 30 Intrepid was 58mph at 5800 RPM. Best cruise was low 30s getting 2mpg. With the Yamahas top speed is 61 mph with 21 pitch props turning 5600 rpm. Best cruise is low 30s getting 2.1-2.2 mpg, 40 mph is 1.8…. I bought the boat used with the intention of fixing it up. It was a retired police boat. The G2s were 2016 and had 3000 hours on them. From the looks of it, it seems that the DPS steering had already been repaired twice before I attempted it.
21:00 As far as I know, you do not have to be worried about clogging the passages. The block passages are sealed and don't continue in the head and vice versa. The purpose of those passages is for the lost foam casting process. The only hole having a mating hole on the other side is the big one at the bottom of the head.
The brass-colored lump you are talking about is your excessive nock sensor. :)
Thank you! I was curious what that thing was. I guess cleaning it and putting a little dialectic grease on it didn’t hurt it too bad.
@@ericdavi1231 No problem. I think that just made it better... After years with salt water enviroment... The grease keeps the water away wich is good! :) Did you say that they had run over 3000 hours?
@@365mechanic6 yup! It was a police boat before I bought it. The plan has been to repower all along. But I’m going to keep milking these things as long as I can.
@@365mechanic6 I really think the steering system is going to be what finally puts these motors in the junkyard. I’ve already had the steering sensors, module and pump motor changed, but if the stern and swivel goes out, that’s it for these things. I’m not spending $6,000
@@ericdavi1231 yep! I know. Working on G2 every day and Stern and svivels make me exhuasted. So much work to replace pressure sensors too… i know someone replace Them with the engine on the svivel just removing the DPS manifoil but thats no Good way to do it. You dont know if all o-rings Get in the right place+You Get oil everywhere….
@ 46:25 is an old drag racing motor tuner's trick, and was done with adding seal washers until your electrode was facing away from the center of the cylinder to give the most direct spark to the center of the cylinder access. Has Evinrude ( or any other mechanic) mentioned any cause for these o-rings to fail? Outside of overheating due to a cooling failure, you figure this should not happen unless there was some kind of design/production/assembly failure to cause it.
It’s not the orings the leak, it’s the cheap ass silicone they use to seal the water passages. It’s never overheated since I had it. I just noticed all the corrosion under the cowling. I noticed the water leak when I changed the fuel filter and was running the motor on the hose to make sure I had put the fuel filter back on correctly. According to the Evinrude forum on Facebook, a lot of these G2s do this.
Nice Video Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video.
I’m glad you like it, hopefully this can save some people a lot of money. Turns out a leaking head isn’t the end of the world on these things!
Hi there, I see you have a particular sheet your working off when you are applying the locktight, is this out of the service manual and would you have a link to these pages?
It’s on the Evinrude Etec Owners Facebook forum. In the files section there’s the entire shop manual for the 74 degree V6
Hey Eric can you make a video of how you change the anodes?
I would, but I literally did them 100 hours ago and they’ll probably be good to go until those motors aren’t worth fixing anymore.
Its a knocing sensor !!
Sadly Evinrude stop production
Why dont you use wd 40 . Its lubricate ,and clean up 😊