You got it! The best advice I can give is really clean out the brass idol jets that aren't removable from the carbs body, and maybe take pictures as you pull things apart so you can look back at how they will go back together! Lol
Thanks for watching! I do have both the right and left controls in stock and will be installing both of them in a video soon. I'll elaborate on some of the other electrical system too at that time.
Stripped screws are normally caused by using the wrong screwdriver. JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws are used by almost all Japanese motorcycles. Look at the screw for a 'dot'.... that signifies a JIS screw. JIS screwdrivers usually come as a set of 3 but might be individual. Online is the easiest outlet. Your particular problem might have been the lack of a 'idle adjustment spring' on the adjuster screw! I noticed it was missing at the beginning of the carb teardown and magically appeared during the re-installation! That adjuster screw will always try to loosen itself and that causes the idle speed to fluctuate.... always slower. But with all the visible fuel leaks you were justified in the teardown and rebuild. You should have mentioned that you reinstalled the spring though. One of the biggest 'boo-boos' was not replacing the center gasket between the carb bodies. Well... you actually can't because it's no longer available from Honda but... you could 'seal' the center gasket with some PERMATEX RUBBER SEALANT #85409. A tube costs about $10 USD. It's not a perfect replacement but it's better than having all your work done and finding it still leaks fuel. I don't know if there's anyone making a replacement 'packing' but I do know it's unavailable from Honda. Once you break it apart you should know that it's going to leak upon reassembly.... so some sealant is the best alternative. The 'prybar' you used to pressure the screws for the air cut valves'.... was very good process but that's actually called a 'gasket scraper'. During reassembly you MUST reset the float levels! This is so important you should have covered it in your video! Also you should have inspected the fuel jets and verified they were clear and used compressed air to blow them out. Never, EVER use a wire or drill to check for them being clear. Soak them in a carb cleaner (spray carb cleaner from WalMart works fine) and then blow out with compressed air. A higher than normal idle speed can be cause by several problems but one of the most common is an air leak. The intake manifold o-rings are a VERY common reason. They are available and should have been replaced. So.. your work was far from professional but it wasn't the worse I've seen online. When the GL1000 first came out we had carb problems with the first ones because they had set in the werehouse after manufacture and shipping from Japan... or so we were told. I battled with carb removal until figuring out to remove the 2 right side slide bodies was the key! The provisional manual we had made no mention about HOW to remove the carbs. Good job on that for you!
For your information.... I found a source for the center intake plenum gasket (the packing between the 2 carb halves) at Randakk's Cycle Shack. They are in Florida. They want less than $13. I didn't check everything else out but these people seem to be THE source for most Honda carb parts. Hope this helps!
Did you say your is a 1980 ? That’s what I have and my jets were pressed in couldn’t get them out and it was blocked off from sitting for 20 years I bought a set off eBay that had removable jets and seems to be a lot better, the guy said it came off a running bike but who knows, I’ve got a lot of work to do on this bike but I’m not going to stop until it’s done,thanks for the video
This is an 80. And yes the idle jets are pressed in. I used wire, carb cleaner and air to be sure they were open and flowing. If you can't get yours out, guys will drill a hole just tight enough to get a screw into, then pull them out and throw them away. That's really the only technique I've seen to be able to replace the idle jets. Best of luck! They ride like a dream when you get them running good!!!
I've heard of the screw in the jet trick! I didn't need to do it on these carbs, but will defiantly remember that it's a good option when working on them in the future!
You dont need remove tops the carbs on right side .but no one mentioned metal pipes yours doesint seem have mine a 84 gl 1200 one got that from underneeth carbs where not stuck
Yes for carb screws get a hand impact driver cheap as a heavy hammer and some wd 40 spray after 30 years know they say honda uses js screws technically not philips scews that might not be case usa made goldwings
Thanks. I've been dreading servicing the carbs on my son's 83 GL1100. This video made it look a lot less daunting.
You got it! The best advice I can give is really clean out the brass idol jets that aren't removable from the carbs body, and maybe take pictures as you pull things apart so you can look back at how they will go back together! Lol
Wow, that was a awesome video on rebuilding the carburetor.!! It was wonderful to hear Pearl, like a kitten, when you were done!!
I was really happy to hear that nice goldwing purrr too! Thank for watching!
Great video. Not at all the procedure demonstrated in the factory service manual, never the less it all worked.
great video, hope you make more I would love to see one describing all the electrical hardware and plugs that are attached to the motor.
Thanks for watching! I do have both the right and left controls in stock and will be installing both of them in a video soon. I'll elaborate on some of the other electrical system too at that time.
Stripped screws are normally caused by using the wrong screwdriver. JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws are used by almost all Japanese motorcycles. Look at the screw for a 'dot'.... that signifies a JIS screw. JIS screwdrivers usually come as a set of 3 but might be individual. Online is the easiest outlet.
Your particular problem might have been the lack of a 'idle adjustment spring' on the adjuster screw! I noticed it was missing at the beginning of the carb teardown and magically appeared during the re-installation! That adjuster screw will always try to loosen itself and that causes the idle speed to fluctuate.... always slower.
But with all the visible fuel leaks you were justified in the teardown and rebuild. You should have mentioned that you reinstalled the spring though.
One of the biggest 'boo-boos' was not replacing the center gasket between the carb bodies. Well... you actually can't because it's no longer available from Honda but...
you could 'seal' the center gasket with some PERMATEX RUBBER SEALANT #85409. A tube costs about $10 USD. It's not a perfect replacement but it's better than having all your work done and finding it still leaks fuel. I don't know if there's anyone making a replacement 'packing' but I do know it's unavailable from Honda. Once you break it apart you should know that it's going to leak upon reassembly.... so some sealant is the best alternative.
The 'prybar' you used to pressure the screws for the air cut valves'.... was very good process but that's actually called a 'gasket scraper'.
During reassembly you MUST reset the float levels! This is so important you should have covered it in your video!
Also you should have inspected the fuel jets and verified they were clear and used compressed air to blow them out. Never, EVER use a wire or drill to check for them being clear. Soak them in a carb cleaner (spray carb cleaner from WalMart works fine) and then blow out with compressed air.
A higher than normal idle speed can be cause by several problems but one of the most common is an air leak. The intake manifold o-rings are a VERY common reason. They are available and should have been replaced.
So.. your work was far from professional but it wasn't the worse I've seen online. When the GL1000 first came out we had carb problems with the first ones because they had set in the werehouse after manufacture and shipping from Japan... or so we were told. I battled with carb removal until figuring out to remove the 2 right side slide bodies was the key! The provisional manual we had made no mention about HOW to remove the carbs. Good job on that for you!
Thank you for watching and commenting! I'm glad you got something from this video as we Fix it for Josh Sake
For your information.... I found a source for the center intake plenum gasket (the packing between the 2 carb halves) at Randakk's Cycle Shack. They are in Florida.
They want less than $13. I didn't check everything else out but these people seem to be THE source for most Honda carb parts. Hope this helps!
Ty very much for making the vids you do !
I'm glad I could help!
Use high Temperature Silicone Grease when reassembling crusty old Threads..makes life easier and stops them corroding any further.
Did you say your is a 1980 ? That’s what I have and my jets were pressed in couldn’t get them out and it was blocked off from sitting for 20 years I bought a set off eBay that had removable jets and seems to be a lot better, the guy said it came off a running bike but who knows, I’ve got a lot of work to do on this bike but I’m not going to stop until it’s done,thanks for the video
This is an 80. And yes the idle jets are pressed in. I used wire, carb cleaner and air to be sure they were open and flowing. If you can't get yours out, guys will drill a hole just tight enough to get a screw into, then pull them out and throw them away. That's really the only technique I've seen to be able to replace the idle jets. Best of luck! They ride like a dream when you get them running good!!!
Can I use carbs off a 1982-83 or are they different?
@@jamespolucha8790 they should be the same, unless someone swapped them for something else before the bike got to you
I use a deck screw into the pressed in jet and leverage it out with side cutters. Can reuse the jets no problem.
I've heard of the screw in the jet trick! I didn't need to do it on these carbs, but will defiantly remember that it's a good option when working on them in the future!
word of advice get a Japanese standard bit set for the screws. less of a chance of messing up screw heads
I've been price a set out. But they won't be in my craftsmen tool set, so they're hard to want to buy! Lol
You dont need remove tops the carbs on right side .but no one mentioned metal pipes yours doesint seem have mine a 84 gl 1200 one got that from underneeth carbs where not stuck
Yes for carb screws get a hand impact driver cheap as a heavy hammer and some wd 40 spray after 30 years know they say honda uses js screws technically not philips scews that might not be case usa made goldwings
Sync it .
For sure! It makes a big difference! I'll do a video of that at some point