Travel Speed is the second most important setting for preventing Stringing. The Faster you get from A to B on a travel, the less time there is for filament to ooze out.
I just got my first 3D printer last week, and I'm taking things really slowly, just printing a small thing every now and again before I move on to big stuff. But one of my favourite things so far is the amount of good info that's out there, like this video. I pick up one or two good tips from every video and they always make total sense.. It's a really fun journey!
lets be honest Angus, Simplify 3D is probably not the software used by the most users, due to its high cost. most of the users will be using the free solutions available, like slicer and cura, in which the settings that you showed will be a little more hidden and difficult to change. so i think that a video for that free options would be appreciated by many of the viewers. other than that good job, and great video.
Personally, I didn't think the cost was that high, in terms of software, it's pretty inexpensive when you look at what you could be paying for modeling software. Just under $150 seems like a kick ass deal for lifetime use, easy to understand adjustments and perfect prints. Unlike Microsoft Office or Adobe Photoshop where you have to pay yearly... I can't tell you how many times I've thought Simplify3D was worth every penny.
Simplify 3D is must have slicer if you mean 3D printing serious. When I bought it, my prints improve in many ways. I felt like I bought suddenly new, better and more expensive printer, not just piece of software :-D I wish i would buy it directly with the printer, because this way I lost a few months with slic3r and cura which I have not used anymore.
I disagree, a lot of people that want to improve their quality move to simplify3d. Or just want something that works faster. If you dont like that he used simplify3d you are totally free to go make your own video showing how to do it in the software you prefer to use
Yeah, I also disagree with this. I think if you're really into this "hobby" that extra $150 is not a big deal, not for the outcome you gain with it. At the end of the day, your printer is about $500-$4,000 so well worth the investment.
you guys are missing the point of my comment, (I also use S3D) the point is when you buy your first printer you will not spend $150 in a software without first getting used to you printer, and how are you supposed to get your printer print settings at it best with the free software in the beginning, if you dont now the software? I guess you will not be spending an extra $150 without knowing what your printer can do with the free software or will you? I dont know about your wallets, but I'm, guessing most people buy a cheap chinese prusa printer because of their low price (probably, because most of them also can't afford spending 700 to 5000 dollars in one printer).
Thank you !!! After I changed my nozzle from 0.4mm to 0.5mm I was plagued with stringing, spent countless hours troubleshooting with no luck.. I also use Flexion extruder. I just copied your Simplify 3D settings and my stringing is gone completely. You are the most useful UA-camr by far, very useful video! Keep doing the good work.
Just started my 3D printing journey and came across your channel. Really like the straight to the point and easy to understand explanations (unlike other channels that love to brag about their millions of upgrades and never get to the point lol). Anyways thanks, you've helped me a lot finding some of the problems I was having!
I know this is an older video, but I just wanted to tell you that it has helped more than recent videos have about the same thing. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world!
You should also consider lower temparature setting if you have excessive stringing. Also fan speed can affect stringing but not as much. Another thing to take into consideration is to determine your max retraction distance. If you have all metal heatbreak AVOID PULLING FILAMENT INTO COLD END! This can cause clogging or heat creep and ruining your print, especially when printing with PLA. Measure the max distance between cold end and hot end. Also you can try speeding up travel moves.
Hey Angus, great video as always. I really love your work and presentation style. I think you're doing a freaking fantastic job and all your videos have undoubtedly helped thousands (even millions) of people get into 3D printing successfully! Thank you again!
Most excellent episode of Printing 101! These settings helped improve my prints 110% on the gMax 1.5XT+. Thanks for sharing this very valuable bit of information Angus!
Sooo happy to have da vinci mini... out of the box, no calibration - perfect print quality... And retraction is very noticeable in it :) it makes a "squeek", each time, while retracting to a new position. Awesome to know what the theory behind the "Squeek" is. These fine calibration details - that's worth paying for. Seriously - you take a machine out of the box, and it simply works. A professional had already calibrated it to perfection. It would takes hours to get things straight on my own. Perhaps days...
When using coast at end for 0.2mm what can happen on many small retracts on detailed small prints is that it when the extruded plastic amount is almost (or getting close) the same as the coast distance, it will majorly under extrude. This is really easy to notice as you change layer heights from 0.2mm to 0.1mm as less filament is extruded and you notice this effect much quicker. It is a solution, but it needs to be calibrated and set for each layer height.
Iv'e just finished building my second 3D printer, and went through your video to help me fix my really bad stringing issue, printing like a boss now! And for the Naysayers about Simplift 3D being too expensive, I have a mate that wishes he had S3D like I do, he absolutely loves the supports that S3D has compared to the latest Cura he uses. I tried a number of the free Slicers, but S3D is the best for configurability I have found so far. Also you have to consider I built my printer, it's not standard, but hundreds have made similar machines to mine (Hypercube). It is definately not a cheap printer, but it's far from expensive.
Lots of videos refer to 'getting your printer dialled in', but none of them go into a step by step process to say which settings will make what sort of change or a sequence of which settings to tinker with and by how much. A series of tutorials in a separate playlist? And print the same thing on the same printer to illustrate changes. I imagine that is what your maker coin was for initially. Fusion 360 is a magic program. Getting to grips with it slowly. Can't believe how powerful it is overall; CAD is just the tip of the iceberg (and the only bit I will ever really use I think).
Hey Angus! thanks for the advice! it really helped me complete the fine tuning of my Anet A8 while using simplify3d. Now I am finally getting perfect prints!! If you are ever in the Puerto Rico, I owe you a few rounds of beers !!!
absolutly useful ... had that problem when I start 3Dprinting .. since .. found issue and test and test and test .. your video is perfectly explained .. Great job !!! Thanks for every new 3Dprinter :)
Angus, I am really enjoying the 101 Series of videos. I have only been printing since late February and have picked up a lot by watching tons of UA-cam videos and learning from wonderful people like yourself. I always learn something new or how to do something I know how to do better. Thanks for the instructional videos! Norbert
Just getting into 3D printing have had my Ender 3 v2 for 3 days now and it was not as easy as I though I have a lot to learn😂. It is fun learning about all of this though so thanks for your help😁
MM i set my retraction settings from 1mm to 6mm and it is printing Great, no strings at all and the quality of the print is alot better. I did purchase one of your t-shirts. Thank you for this Great video. keep them coming Damian :)
I have a question…. I went from a light colored filament to a dark one and am getting horrible stringing. I’ve printed temp towers, the stringing test like in this video and messed with all kinds of retraction settings. Still horrible. Any help would be appreciated, I’m running 8mm retract @ 60mm atm.
Thanks for the video. Can you tell us what you learned about the affects of: 1) Temp 2) Layer height 3) Rapid travel distance 4) Feed stock Material 5) Print speed on the amount of coasting distance and retraction required. The five variables all affect the amount of pressure in the hot end and would therefore affect the amount of oozing. How would you rank these variables in the order of importance?
You should try the "retract continue" post-processing plugin. This resolves all stringing and oozing for me (expert user ~10 years in 3d printing now). It works on an Ultimaker Original/2/2+/3/S3/S5, on other printers, and with ALL FILAMENTS as well. It basically keeps retracting the filament whilst making a travel move. Which in turn prevents hot plastic from leaving the nozzle. You could also increase the retraction distance, BUT... when you do this you make some not necessary E-moves that flatten your filament. Open Cura (4.4 or later) --> Extensions -->Post processing --> Retract continue I would be more than happy to see a part 2 where you test this:D
This is a great video. The only problem I was having with my prints was stringing. After following these guidelines, I only got a few spider web-thin strands. Thank you!
If you have underextrusion with your retraction settings. - Changing WALLS ORDER to `From Inner to Outer` could help a bit. Looks like underextrusion will normalize a bit during printing inner walls, Before outer ones. - Reducing Speed of Walls will help too. So i have Outer Walls as 45 instead of 80mm. For me 80 for infill and inner walls was a manufacture recommendation. My retraction is set to 10. and 35 mm speed. That was tested with 3 filaments on max temp for each, when oozing is more likely. Those 2 parameters together help medicate underextrusion issue. But not eliminating it.
as of this moment im facing this stringing issue too much filament were on trash until i find this video thank you for this stringing is lessen maybe will fine tune the settings until its gone thank you
I am printing with pla+ on ender 3 v2, I tried retraction speed from 45 to 60 without changing anything else then tried retraction length 5 to 7, nothing changed, stringing didn't increase or decrease. Now I'll try your tricks, if it still doesn't work I'll try the dehydrator
Hi! black (Tevo's) PLA, 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm - layer; 60deg - bed, 210deg - nozzle, 100% fan speed (two fans from sides), 5mm retraction (usual slow speed), glass base, no glue... I've got almost no wires... good brim (~10mm), but at the 40-50th layer the model was detached (and probably moved by the nozzle). Aborted, re-leveled the bed (need to), bed - 70deg, set Hop on (and 1mm), glued the model's place (some glue stick that easy to remove - Erich Krause). Adhesion was great but I've got strings all over the road. 1st I've thought about the fan's speed (was down to 70%) but then I've raised it to 100% manually. Seems that the main reason is Hop. But (without BLTouch for sure) it's impossible to print without it. It was the 80mm temperature tower with rect. and round windows + spikes (from 210 to 245 degrees - eight steps). All spikes are messy. In the 1st case (that failed by detaching) I've got very good spikes tough. What can you advice, please?
Quick comment on flexible retraction: I've found that successful flexible printing uses more aggressive retraction settings than with non-flexibles. "Combing", or keeping the print head inside the print, will work well when each print layer is contained in one area, or when the first layer of the print is not an aesthetic layer (as it leaves stringing behind). For this reason I have had success in combating the elasticity of the material by increasing my length and speed of retraction by up to 4x. Let me know if that works for you! (Lulzbot TAZ 5 w Cura)
NOT really. With having to be connected ALL THE DAMN TIME to the net for program operation, I would imagine that the SW "reports" YOUR machine info, then this would effectively lock-out any multiple(different) user. So there. Buy your own....
Another great video Angus and actually better explination of how retraction works than a lot of others i've gone look at. Suggestion would have been to show what having too much retraction looked like on the print ;) that way you help people troubleshoot if they mess it up etc.
Thank you very much! I am printing for years but this is so cool. Even my ninjaflex models are way better now. 10mm retraction and 80mm a sec, never came on this settings.
I have exactly this same problem. Low temperature, and 5MM retraction, 40MM /sec. I adjust retraction to 6MM and 60MM / sec, did not help, Mather fact it makes worse. Then I make test with the highest temperature available for filament, and surprising I removed strings, also model was surprising much better quality. Everybody is saying that filament will flow out with to high temp, my problem was opposite,
simplify3d is getting more and more interesting, maybe I give it a go, although the cura beta is doing great, it has a 2week moneyback guarantee so, need those manual supports.
Thanks for the great video on Retraction, I am having that issue my self with my TRONXY X5S printer. I will apply these settings and see how she prints.
In Marlin is the default max feedrate for E0 set to 25 mm/sec (1500mm/min). For more retraction speed you must change the #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE (or in the printer feedrate menu)
After trying all of your settings and STILL looking like crap, I realized that I missed one important one. You are not doing a Z-hop when retracting! When I turned off Z-hop, my threading dropped from practically solid structures to occasional annoyance. Thanks for the video! DLC
What can be done about stringing not between gaps, but where very fine wisps of filament are pulled off the side in a concave part of the wall? It's like the nozzle is dragging on the filament and pulling a small amount of it, but definitely not the entire strand, across the gap. I have tried raising the temperature and that improves it but there is still slight stringing even at 220c for PLA. I am printing outer walls at 15mm/s. Could the nozzle be damaged?
Hi angus i have a tevo nereus basic with yellow hatchbox pla and whenever i start a print, it goes to one corner, heats everything up, and while its doing that, it oozes filament. The extruder was preassembled. why da ooze? edit: the same thing happens, but if i pause the print, even when i clean off the nozzle, and resume it oozes. Help me! i use cura 4.1 beta
My stringing issues on my current print seem to be from needing supports and printing with TPU. I may need to use a different filament with this specific model. I'll know in about 12 hours how bad it messes up.
man i got this one printer out of my 3 that just WONT STOP STRINGING. bad too. Ive tried adjusted the extruder steps, ive tried retraction, ive tried temperature....im at a bit of a loss. At this point im thinkin maybe my temperature sensor is off? Its getting the plastic too hot maybe and its dripping too much?
I used retraction all those years and it just made my asa prints uglier. Why introducing a source of inaccuracy in extrusion by moving the filament back and forth? just coast and whipe and comb. If you have a problem with too much pressure after laying a line, then fix the problem itself and don't fight symptoms with retraction. I recently tried to print 10 simple pieces, maybe 2x3x1cm... the retractions just chew the filament trough twice... that's when it clicked for me and i got rid of retraction.
I'm almost impressed by my stupidity and luck simultaneously, I've been trying to print with my flexible PLA material by RigidInk, after many tries I've managed a print, but with retraction in full effect, having searched around, it seems clear to me that the rule #1 of flex material is to turn retraction off...! lol I almost wish my failures were more catastrophic that I would have turned it off from the get go instead of doing everything but the most obvious thing to do...
Angus, i know you might get this question often and after 30ish minutes of searching, and trying to use Shazam for another 15 minutes i am unable to find the name of your outro song? it is rather catchy (i know the bubonic plague was also catchy but this is in a good way)
I'm flattered that you would search so hard for it - Shazam won't find it because I created it myself as a backing track for videos. Unfortunately I haven't released it, as a means of keeping my videos unique.
Still Great information to this Day~!!! Any Retraction advice for those of us printing 95a-98a TPU on the Bambu Labs printer to dial in the stringing? Maybe add retract_before_wipe 10% ??? Thanks. Been watching the Channel with my Son for 5 Years Now.
Thanks mate! Lots of vids out there on this but I for one haven't seen anyone of them explaining the "why?" of it. And that is fundamental to increase ones skill level. :-)
I couldn't agree more, Angus is one of the few people that explains it all properly. It's great to know 'what' happens, but having the 'why' is just as important ... if not more so.
Retraction Distance 10 mm ? The most say 2-5 mm max with a bowden extruder and only 0.5-2 mm with a direct extruder sound like the video needs an update or not ?
Travel Speed is the second most important setting for preventing Stringing. The Faster you get from A to B on a travel, the less time there is for filament to ooze out.
I just got my first 3D printer last week, and I'm taking things really slowly, just printing a small thing every now and again before I move on to big stuff.
But one of my favourite things so far is the amount of good info that's out there, like this video.
I pick up one or two good tips from every video and they always make total sense.. It's a really fun journey!
lets be honest Angus, Simplify 3D is probably not the software used by the most users, due to its high cost.
most of the users will be using the free solutions available, like slicer and cura, in which the settings that you showed will be a little more hidden and difficult to change.
so i think that a video for that free options would be appreciated by many of the viewers.
other than that good job, and great video.
Personally, I didn't think the cost was that high, in terms of software, it's pretty inexpensive when you look at what you could be paying for modeling software. Just under $150 seems like a kick ass deal for lifetime use, easy to understand adjustments and perfect prints. Unlike Microsoft Office or Adobe Photoshop where you have to pay yearly... I can't tell you how many times I've thought Simplify3D was worth every penny.
Simplify 3D is must have slicer if you mean 3D printing serious. When I bought it, my prints improve in many ways. I felt like I bought suddenly new, better and more expensive printer, not just piece of software :-D I wish i would buy it directly with the printer, because this way I lost a few months with slic3r and cura which I have not used anymore.
I disagree, a lot of people that want to improve their quality move to simplify3d. Or just want something that works faster.
If you dont like that he used simplify3d you are totally free to go make your own video showing how to do it in the software you prefer to use
Yeah, I also disagree with this. I think if you're really into this "hobby" that extra $150 is not a big deal, not for the outcome you gain with it. At the end of the day, your printer is about $500-$4,000 so well worth the investment.
you guys are missing the point of my comment, (I also use S3D) the point is when you buy your first printer you will not spend $150 in a software without first getting used to you printer, and how are you supposed to get your printer print settings at it best with the free software in the beginning, if you dont now the software?
I guess you will not be spending an extra $150 without knowing what your printer can do with the free software or will you?
I dont know about your wallets, but I'm, guessing most people buy a cheap chinese prusa printer because of their low price (probably, because most of them also can't afford spending 700 to 5000 dollars in one printer).
Thank you !!! After I changed my nozzle from 0.4mm to 0.5mm I was plagued with stringing, spent countless hours troubleshooting with no luck.. I also use Flexion extruder. I just copied your Simplify 3D settings and my stringing is gone completely. You are the most useful UA-camr by far, very useful video! Keep doing the good work.
Incredibly well done! I learned from this, keep it up!
Woohoo! Will do :)
I see that you have the Wanhao D6. Will you be reviewing it?
3D Printing Nerd Joel? That really you?!?
Just started my 3D printing journey and came across your channel. Really like the straight to the point and easy to understand explanations (unlike other channels that love to brag about their millions of upgrades and never get to the point lol). Anyways thanks, you've helped me a lot finding some of the problems I was having!
I know this is an older video, but I just wanted to tell you that it has helped more than recent videos have about the same thing. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world!
You should also consider lower temparature setting if you have excessive stringing. Also fan speed can affect stringing but not as much. Another thing to take into consideration is to determine your max retraction distance. If you have all metal heatbreak AVOID PULLING FILAMENT INTO COLD END! This can cause clogging or heat creep and ruining your print, especially when printing with PLA. Measure the max distance between cold end and hot end. Also you can try speeding up travel moves.
WOW! I followed this info, using a similar test print on my Longer LK5 and went from strings to almost NOTHING on the final! Awesome!! Thank you!!!!
Hey Angus, great video as always. I really love your work and presentation style. I think you're doing a freaking fantastic job and all your videos have undoubtedly helped thousands (even millions) of people get into 3D printing successfully! Thank you again!
Most excellent episode of Printing 101! These settings helped improve my prints 110% on the gMax 1.5XT+. Thanks for sharing this very valuable bit of information Angus!
Sooo happy to have da vinci mini... out of the box, no calibration - perfect print quality... And retraction is very noticeable in it :) it makes a "squeek", each time, while retracting to a new position.
Awesome to know what the theory behind the "Squeek" is.
These fine calibration details - that's worth paying for. Seriously - you take a machine out of the box, and it simply works. A professional had already calibrated it to perfection. It would takes hours to get things straight on my own. Perhaps days...
I got my Neptune 3 Pro last October and never knew about these settings or why my prints were turning increasingly 'hairy.' Thank you so much!
THANK YOU. New 3d printer here so I going through all the fun of "I have no idea what is going on" Retraction helped a ton.
That "TPU tip" was gold - thanks!
getting my first 3d Printer, your channel is very well put together an you tips and tricks will save me a lot of hair pulling....
When using coast at end for 0.2mm what can happen on many small retracts on detailed small prints is that it when the extruded plastic amount is almost (or getting close) the same as the coast distance, it will majorly under extrude. This is really easy to notice as you change layer heights from 0.2mm to 0.1mm as less filament is extruded and you notice this effect much quicker. It is a solution, but it needs to be calibrated and set for each layer height.
Thanks for the wonderfully clear description of each retraction element. A "must watch" tutorial for anyone seeking perfect prints!
Iv'e just finished building my second 3D printer, and went through your video to help me fix my really bad stringing issue, printing like a boss now!
And for the Naysayers about Simplift 3D being too expensive, I have a mate that wishes he had S3D like I do, he absolutely loves the supports that S3D has compared to the latest Cura he uses.
I tried a number of the free Slicers, but S3D is the best for configurability I have found so far. Also you have to consider I built my printer, it's not standard, but hundreds have made similar machines to mine (Hypercube). It is definately not a cheap printer, but it's far from expensive.
Lots of videos refer to 'getting your printer dialled in', but none of them go into a step by step process to say which settings will make what sort of change or a sequence of which settings to tinker with and by how much. A series of tutorials in a separate playlist? And print the same thing on the same printer to illustrate changes. I imagine that is what your maker coin was for initially.
Fusion 360 is a magic program. Getting to grips with it slowly. Can't believe how powerful it is overall; CAD is just the tip of the iceberg (and the only bit I will ever really use I think).
has anybody ever tried to deliberately "grow" those ooze-tree structures? they're kinda intriguing in theyr own right.
Cuda FX dude! That would be amazing I'm going to try! Never thought of that before, if you can't beat them join em'
Yes I've seen it used for texturing climbing holds
@@BlackSlimShady if you're looking for something to beat.
Me:takes pants off
This comment right here officer
Hey Angus! thanks for the advice! it really helped me complete the fine tuning of my Anet A8 while using simplify3d. Now I am finally getting perfect prints!! If you are ever in the Puerto Rico, I owe you a few rounds of beers !!!
This will correct the last problem I had with my printer, so after I made my adjustment I expect perfection!! Thanks!
once again, thanks!!! great video that should fix 25% of the problems we see on noob facebook group
absolutly useful ... had that problem when I start 3Dprinting .. since .. found issue and test and test and test .. your video is perfectly explained .. Great job !!! Thanks for every new 3Dprinter :)
Angus,
I am really enjoying the 101 Series of videos. I have only been printing since late February and have picked up a lot by watching tons of UA-cam videos and learning from wonderful people like yourself. I always learn something new or how to do something I know how to do better.
Thanks for the instructional videos!
Norbert
Just getting into 3D printing have had my Ender 3 v2 for 3 days now and it was not as easy as I though I have a lot to learn😂. It is fun learning about all of this though so thanks for your help😁
you saved my print's life ! thanksss
MM i set my retraction settings from 1mm to 6mm and it is printing Great, no strings at all and the quality of the print is alot better. I did purchase one of your t-shirts. Thank you for this Great video. keep them coming
Damian :)
I have a question…. I went from a light colored filament to a dark one and am getting horrible stringing. I’ve printed temp towers, the stringing test like in this video and messed with all kinds of retraction settings. Still horrible. Any help would be appreciated, I’m running 8mm retract @ 60mm atm.
the pun at 1:00... "while tweaking temperatures can help in some degrees..."
but will screw up layer adhesion.
This is awesome, thank you! I really appreciate the detail for flexible material. I will be looking into those settings for Cura.
Thanks for the video. Can you tell us what you learned about the affects of:
1) Temp
2) Layer height
3) Rapid travel distance
4) Feed stock Material
5) Print speed
on the amount of coasting distance and retraction required. The five variables all affect the amount of pressure in the hot end and would therefore affect the amount of oozing. How would you rank these variables in the order of importance?
You should try the "retract continue" post-processing plugin. This resolves all stringing and oozing for me (expert user ~10 years in 3d printing now). It works on an Ultimaker Original/2/2+/3/S3/S5, on other printers, and with ALL FILAMENTS as well.
It basically keeps retracting the filament whilst making a travel move. Which in turn prevents hot plastic from leaving the nozzle.
You could also increase the retraction distance, BUT... when you do this you make some not necessary E-moves that flatten your filament.
Open Cura (4.4 or later) --> Extensions -->Post processing --> Retract continue
I would be more than happy to see a part 2 where you test this:D
Thanks, still usefull after 6 years.
well done Angus, I dont believe I've seen a video on this topic. You did awesome
I love your channel dude, I´m a total newbie on 3d printer world and your videos help me a lot. Thank you very much!
Turn on wipe nozzle (wipe distance 3 mm ) .This is miracle for problem with stringing. I change everything but this fix all.
This is a great video. The only problem I was having with my prints was stringing. After following these guidelines, I only got a few spider web-thin strands. Thank you!
If you have underextrusion with your retraction settings.
- Changing WALLS ORDER to `From Inner to Outer` could help a bit.
Looks like underextrusion will normalize a bit during printing inner walls, Before outer ones.
- Reducing Speed of Walls will help too. So i have Outer Walls as 45 instead of 80mm. For me 80 for infill and inner walls was a manufacture recommendation.
My retraction is set to 10. and 35 mm speed.
That was tested with 3 filaments on max temp for each, when oozing is more likely.
Those 2 parameters together help medicate underextrusion issue. But not eliminating it.
as of this moment im facing this stringing issue too much filament were on trash until i find this video thank you for this stringing is lessen maybe will fine tune the settings until its gone thank you
well I was watching your last stream I made my own fractal cube. It had retraction issues. This should help
The cube is a perfect test of it hey, and cooling... the Duplicator 6 doesn't like the cube.
I am printing with pla+ on ender 3 v2, I tried retraction speed from 45 to 60 without changing anything else then tried retraction length 5 to 7, nothing changed, stringing didn't increase or decrease. Now I'll try your tricks, if it still doesn't work I'll try the dehydrator
Man i learn so much from this channel.
Thank you Angus! Your channel is the best on UA-cam. Great quality, perfect audio and amazing content. Very entertaining!
Lots of great information. I am using Simplifi3d because of your channel and this helped to highlight what some of these settings are!
Hi!
black (Tevo's) PLA, 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm - layer; 60deg - bed, 210deg - nozzle, 100% fan speed (two fans from sides), 5mm retraction (usual slow speed), glass base, no glue... I've got almost no wires... good brim (~10mm), but at the 40-50th layer the model was detached (and probably moved by the nozzle).
Aborted, re-leveled the bed (need to), bed - 70deg, set Hop on (and 1mm), glued the model's place (some glue stick that easy to remove - Erich Krause). Adhesion was great but I've got strings all over the road. 1st I've thought about the fan's speed (was down to 70%) but then I've raised it to 100% manually. Seems that the main reason is Hop. But (without BLTouch for sure) it's impossible to print without it.
It was the 80mm temperature tower with rect. and round windows + spikes (from 210 to 245 degrees - eight steps). All spikes are messy. In the 1st case (that failed by detaching) I've got very good spikes tough.
What can you advice, please?
Quick comment on flexible retraction: I've found that successful flexible printing uses more aggressive retraction settings than with non-flexibles. "Combing", or keeping the print head inside the print, will work well when each print layer is contained in one area, or when the first layer of the print is not an aesthetic layer (as it leaves stringing behind). For this reason I have had success in combating the elasticity of the material by increasing my length and speed of retraction by up to 4x. Let me know if that works for you! (Lulzbot TAZ 5 w Cura)
*Does this have anything to do with my circumcision??? Retraction? Stringing?*
Great video Angus. Settings are working great!!
Very good explanation Angus, Thanks.
now if only I had the $200 to buy Simplify3D.
$150* and then lets be kind of unofficial and share your 2. licence with a friend and you could already be at $75.
NOT really. With having to be connected ALL THE DAMN TIME to the net for program operation, I would imagine that the SW "reports" YOUR machine info, then this would effectively lock-out any multiple(different) user.
So there. Buy your own....
It's $150 for a license for two computers.
Still fcukin expensive. Do you know what USD 150 means in some parts of the world??
Yes!! It is very expensive
better than a college class!
Another great video Angus and actually better explination of how retraction works than a lot of others i've gone look at. Suggestion would have been to show what having too much retraction looked like on the print ;) that way you help people troubleshoot if they mess it up etc.
Thank you very much! I am printing for years but this is so cool. Even my ninjaflex models are way better now. 10mm retraction and 80mm a sec, never came on this settings.
I have exactly this same problem. Low temperature, and 5MM retraction, 40MM /sec.
I adjust retraction to 6MM and 60MM / sec, did not help, Mather fact it makes worse. Then I make test with the highest temperature available for filament, and surprising I removed strings, also model was surprising much better quality.
Everybody is saying that filament will flow out with to high temp, my problem was opposite,
So retraction is kinda like pulling out??
Very concise, excellent introduction to retraction.
Just discovered your channel, watched 4 videos, subscribed immediately, very informative videos! Thanks from Morocco!
Quick video but good quality, love it. Subbed.
Maybe I missed this but you had 10mm retract. That's for a Bowden set-up? Direct drive should be much less. Is that right?
FREAKING HELL IT WORKED THANK YOU SO MUCH ❤❤
Thanks, very helpful! Never turned retraction off for my flexible material prints. So i'm gonna try this out.
3:26 How do you adjust 'Extra Restart Distance' and what is it?
Thanks for all your precious time from a new Subscriber!!!
Great to see an S3D based tutorial, thanks Angus.
This was a great informative video. Thank you!
simplify3d is getting more and more interesting, maybe I give it a go, although the cura beta is doing great, it has a 2week moneyback guarantee so, need those manual supports.
So... If we turn on Avoid Crossing Outline for Travel Movements, we don't need retraction at all? Thanks.
Thanks for the great video on Retraction, I am having that issue my self with my TRONXY X5S printer. I will apply these settings and see how she prints.
Love the videos keep up the good work I've learned so much
In Marlin is the default max feedrate for E0 set to 25 mm/sec (1500mm/min). For more retraction speed you must change the #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE (or in the printer feedrate menu)
After trying all of your settings and STILL looking like crap, I realized that I missed one important one. You are not doing a Z-hop when retracting! When I turned off Z-hop, my threading dropped from practically solid structures to occasional annoyance.
Thanks for the video!
DLC
Thanks. Sound like I need to play with the settings with that neat little jig you made for testing.
Great! It was what I was looking for. Very good.
Just getting into 3D printing and this is great information. Subscribed!
That's great. Had no idea about the retraction setting.
Under what circumstances would you separately tweak retraction distance and speed, please?
What can be done about stringing not between gaps, but where very fine wisps of filament are pulled off the side in a concave part of the wall? It's like the nozzle is dragging on the filament and pulling a small amount of it, but definitely not the entire strand, across the gap.
I have tried raising the temperature and that improves it but there is still slight stringing even at 220c for PLA. I am printing outer walls at 15mm/s. Could the nozzle be damaged?
Very nice, thanks. Can you suggest any documents that explain, in detail, all of the various 3D printer parameters (How, why and when to use them)?
Hi angus i have a tevo nereus basic with yellow hatchbox pla and whenever i start a print, it goes to one corner, heats everything up, and while its doing that, it oozes filament. The extruder was preassembled. why da ooze? edit: the same thing happens, but if i pause the print, even when i clean off the nozzle, and resume it oozes. Help me! i use cura 4.1 beta
Great Explanation of Retraction !!!! Thanks !!!!
My stringing issues on my current print seem to be from needing supports and printing with TPU. I may need to use a different filament with this specific model. I'll know in about 12 hours how bad it messes up.
I have many problems with retraction, which values do you recommend for my Anet A8, sainsmart TPU Material?
Thank you
Great video. Can you do it again more detailed with more examples? Especially about the extra restart distance and retraction speed
*No* stringing now. THANK YOU!
man i got this one printer out of my 3 that just WONT STOP STRINGING. bad too. Ive tried adjusted the extruder steps, ive tried retraction, ive tried temperature....im at a bit of a loss. At this point im thinkin maybe my temperature sensor is off? Its getting the plastic too hot maybe and its dripping too much?
Thanks you so much for the pointers, BUT, mention in the future that the setting is in mm/min. That makes a hell of a difference lol.
I used retraction all those years and it just made my asa prints uglier. Why introducing a source of inaccuracy in extrusion by moving the filament back and forth? just coast and whipe and comb. If you have a problem with too much pressure after laying a line, then fix the problem itself and don't fight symptoms with retraction.
I recently tried to print 10 simple pieces, maybe 2x3x1cm... the retractions just chew the filament trough twice... that's when it clicked for me and i got rid of retraction.
love it. nice and simple. major help. thanks
Another fantastic video this is going to be very useful knowledge!
You should make a video about putting Marlin 2.0 on the Xvico Pioneer you recommended back in 2018.
I always enjoy your vids. Keep up the great work!
I'm almost impressed by my stupidity and luck simultaneously, I've been trying to print with my flexible PLA material by RigidInk, after many tries I've managed a print, but with retraction in full effect, having searched around, it seems clear to me that the rule #1 of flex material is to turn retraction off...! lol I almost wish my failures were more catastrophic that I would have turned it off from the get go instead of doing everything but the most obvious thing to do...
Angus, i know you might get this question often and after 30ish minutes of searching, and trying to use Shazam for another 15 minutes i am unable to find the name of your outro song? it is rather catchy (i know the bubonic plague was also catchy but this is in a good way)
I'm flattered that you would search so hard for it - Shazam won't find it because I created it myself as a backing track for videos. Unfortunately I haven't released it, as a means of keeping my videos unique.
Very helpful video
Still Great information to this Day~!!!
Any Retraction advice for those of us printing 95a-98a TPU on the Bambu Labs printer to dial in the stringing? Maybe add retract_before_wipe 10% ???
Thanks. Been watching the Channel with my Son for 5 Years Now.
Thanks mate! Lots of vids out there on this but I for one haven't seen anyone of them explaining the "why?" of it. And that is fundamental to increase ones skill level. :-)
I couldn't agree more, Angus is one of the few people that explains it all properly.
It's great to know 'what' happens, but having the 'why' is just as important ... if not more so.
Great explanation. Thanks!
Awesome workspace btw.
Retraction Distance 10 mm ?
The most say 2-5 mm max with a bowden extruder
and only 0.5-2 mm with a direct extruder
sound like the video needs an update or not ?
another great 101 video, love these