Your handling of these small parts is amazing. Even removing a single diode for a wideband modification, I need an assistant on hand with a cloth to wipe the sweat from my forehead. Nice videos Peter, very well made and educational. 73.
LOL, Jörg that is "kleines Kino" take an old smart phone and swap some of the 0201 high density parts that is more a challenge than this little fun board :-)
I love reading the comments of people who have no understanding of how SMD boards are manufactured then they go on and on about how the heat will damage the repaired components. It never ceases to amaze me how tolerant modern components are to heat. Who remembers soldering early germanium transistors where excess heat was a big deal and leads were kept long to protect the junction during soldering.
Great job on the video Peter just wish I could have seen it back transmitting again. It's always good to see broken gear back working again. 73's Dale kg7ssb
If i tried soldering those little things you would only see the back of my head :-) I do my soldering with a 4 and 7x jewelers loup :-) only burnt my nose once :-( If a friend had one of those repairs to be done I'd give it a try with no guarantee :-) Thanks for the video on the FT817 MOS replacement job.
Nice Video and you skills are very good. The Icom IC-V8000 has a similar heat sink solution but instead of soldering the driver to the heat sink, the heat sink is soldered to the pads at each side via posts instead of screws. The solder pad provides the path for dissipation to the heat sink. When they fail, PCB repair is required as it burns into the PCB an vaporizes the traces (3 out of 4 so far).
Nice job. You could replace the board with a new one but this is 'doing electronics' which to me is what the hobby is about and got to be cheaper than a new board. I've had my FT817ND just over 2 years, no problem with it. I wonder if they blow if used on long overs on f.m. when maybe the heatsink gets too hot. My h/b rig uses two RD006HHF-1 on a heatsink with plenty of air circulation and has operated problem free for years. 73, Bill, G4GHB.
Hello Peter, you could also simply use aluminium foil for the protection of the other parts. It is much faster to put on and off. If you press it a bit around the parts it stays very well. 73 de DK3JF
There are some other tricks with desoldering and reflowing tiny surface mount components I've learned from cell phone repair videos. There's a very low-temp solder called chip-quick. You get a tiny bit of that to mix in with the original solder using an iron before you use the hot air. This way you can further limit the heat exposure to the rest of the board while using the hot air. Gotta clean off the chip quick after with a wick though.
Do you not like it because you have experience with using it in this type of repair and it didn't work properly, I have seen it used before on very complex soldering jobs and it seemed to work really well by combining with the existing solder and reducing the melting temps by a lot.
Many radio amateurs manipulate the power up to 10 watts. Not a good idea as you can see, in normal operation, the mosfets actually keep when the antenna is right ;-) good job , thumbs up :-)
You are right many operators manipulate the power even up to almost 20 watt but that is not the only reason for blowing the finals. I have seen a lot completely untouched radios with blown finals...Thanks for comment 73
My GM320A component tester thinks some of my vintage wirewound potentiometers are inductors, but I guess that's really not unexpected. One of them, which measures 52 ohms across it, has a Q factor of 6550 at 42.14 kilohertz.
Thanks, an excellent video. MOSFETs on order to do the job! What is the heat deflecting tape you use Peter? I think you said Captain but I can't find any info - looking for a suitable product to protect the board when heating. Also what soldering tool are you using?
well search the internet and you will find a lot of reports on this issue and it is not only because the folks cranking up the power output. it also happens to untouched units too. 73
I really wonder how all fry their finals of the FT-817 ND without cranking up the power in the service menu. Mine has survived 10 years of extensive use with several small accidents: Transmitting without antenna, manually tuning shortwave antennas, powering the FT-817 from the car cigarette lighter and accidently with 16.5V, -10 to + 30°C ambient temperature. Still no issues with it.
@@DB7MM You are lucky! I have had them blow 3 times in two different FT817ND radios. I ran my FT817NDs at the rated power level of 5 watts. I never touch the service menus.
I own two of them, one first version FT-817 and a newer FT-817 ND. Both of them never had any troubles with their finals. But both of them never carried batteries or accu-packs inside their cases; they always got their power (abt. 10.5 to 11 V) from external power sources. As far as I have read different articles, the first series of the FT-817 (without ND) was especially sensible to finals failure when power dropped too low (abt 7 V) due to forgotten batteries - the finals began to run into self-oscillation without proper termination. On the other side the SK-finals could only bear a maximum of 17 V - and if you run the trx with 13.8 V there is not much spare room until you exceed the maximum of 17 V and burn the finals. The last fault seems to be fixed in the ND because the mosfet finals there now bear a maximum of abt 30 V. It seems that Jesus found a fix for the underpower problem too (the now used mosfets less sensible / different pa construction?), because the NDs never have been reported to fail that often as the older FT-817s do. My advice: keep batteries/accus out of the FT-817 unless you have a real hardware switch to power the device off (the on/off switch of the FT-817 won´t!).
Is it possible to put final boards of 857/897 in a 817nd. I have an 817nd purchased years back which always get very similar reports to my 7300. This is open moded rig and I am at times confused if it's 5 watts or more, I purchased it second hand from USA. 73 de vu3mes Satyan
Peter, this time it was a little late for my breakfast tea..;-) Well done. BTW: I like that solder deskpad, i ordered one 3 weeks ago from BG...i hope its quality is good, it was not the cheapest version. 73!
Why on earth would you replace the finals like that, instead of replacing the board as Yaesu intended? You turned a 20 minute job into what, an hour or 2? Yaesu part CB1333001 is your friend.
Ah interesting and what is your proposal on the FT-857 or FT-897?? Beside that the board is much more expensive even with extra labour on the mos fet's. I wonder if you really know this business otherwise you would not make those comments.
Those mosfets rarely blow on the 857 or 897, as they are behind the finals, but even if they did, you are doing this on an 817 with purposely removable finals. The board isn't that expensive, yes it is priced up, but it's not over priced (£50~ according to the last invoice). Once you take into account your time, the stress and the parts, it's easier just to replace the finals board, as Yaesu intended. IF they do some how manage to blow behind a sea of transformers and PA's further down the chain, then doing this would be the only way, just like you would have to on numerous other Yaesu rigs like the FTM-1500. As for your last comment, everyone else who replaced finals in their 817 replaced the finals unit, because of the chances of cooking the RD07's, the board, or the chance of not being able to get the little stakes in the heatsink to fully connect with both finals. By the time you've got to the point of removing the heatsink and finals, i'd already have replaced the finals and be sorting out the bias. "I wonder if you really know this business, otherwise you would not make those comments", as you so snobbishly said.
My Late Father who also did Electronic Repairs to Component Level used to Call the Younger So called Technicians Board Swapper,s😉....Which he said any one can do, couple of clips or screws job done but no Expertise or talent needed..Its almost as quick to replace those FETs when you know what your doing.
Is this video describing how AM demodulation works correct? Just reversing the polarity of the detector diode won't select the upper or lower sideband will it? ua-cam.com/video/vKmQ4PVafAs/v-deo.html
Hi Peter, thanks for this educational ham video. Just wondering on what temperature you had to desolder with hot air on the unleaded solder and what temp you used to resolderer with leaded solder? 73's Frank, PA5HF
Thank you John. I'm using 0,32 mm Stannol Kristall 505 www.stannol.de/en/products/solder-wires/?tx_produktselektor_filter%5Baa_prod%5D=Kristall%20505&tx_produktselektor_filter%5Baction%5D=show&tx_produktselektor_filter%5Bcontroller%5D=Product&cHash=02ad1ea48b9a4246363eac8a19bfc4f0
well even with the board you have still labour for replacing it and doing the BIAS adjustment for final and exciter stage . So placing 2 MOS FET's may 10 minutes to add to labour time...
Hi Peter. I just removed a Micro-B charge port from a 2012 Kindle Fire 2nd Gen with my Aoyue Int852A++ and I had to raise the temp to 430C with the air at 50 before it would let loose. And I even added some Chip-Quik to all the pins on both sides of the board. I'm glad it came loose because my Hot-Air unit only goes to 480C. I tried 380, 420, and then 430C. I normally use my Hakko iron but didn't have enough room on this board.
Hi Robert, yeah that is how it goes sometimes ...My basic setting is always 390°C which is suitable to most of the applications. But is does make a difference what nozzle size you use. Often it is very helpful to use a bigger diameter like 7 mm or so...
This finales must get a lot of hot when you solderd them in! Do you think you could harm them in any way by the soldering? Thank's for another great video. I will send my FT-817 to you if something goes wrong! The best from LB1NH Arild in Oslo Norway. :-)
My first FT817ND the finals blew in one year. They blew a second time in 2014. I replaced the radio with a new FT-817ND in 2015. They were dead when I took it to Field Day 2019 after storing the radio for 18 months. A new design is in order if you ask me. Each MOS-FET is rated at 7 watts each. How are they blowing with 5 watts in a push-pull?
Since heat can damage the various parts of the radio, is there not an issue of heating it up hot enough to melt the solder? At approx. 12:10 mark in video the yellowish colored material (presume it's 'heat-shield?) is discolored and deformed by the heat you've been applying to remove the soldered parts -- how can that amount of heat being sprayed onto the components not cause issues (premature failings of other parts somewhere down the road)? If an operator brought such a radio in for repair, and indicated that it had been exposed to heat in excess of 400-500 degrees F the excessive heat would be blamed for component failure...yet you indicate you're using approx. 400 degrees C to desolder (400C = 750 degrees F). I do not believe manufacturers intended for adjacent components to be exposed to that level of heat, and believe such exposure to high heat will lead to premature failings of other components.
I have been working on SMD components and hot air for decades. I developed early mobile phones in a time were hot air soldering was more or less unknown. We wrote the fist service instructions for service centres how to service mobile phones and we discussed with chip manufactures chip soldering procedures. And yes chips do have temp profiles and you should exactly know what you are doing but believe me over decades I have not had any problems with this soldering technique..
@@TRXLab IMHO, it is. Hot air gun is a nice way to make a terrible mess in such a small area. Preparation, protections, gestures, gun temperature and height, post-process cleaning... all of these could have been very educational...
@@ElektroLUDIKITS You really need to do a week long course run by a manufacturer, tool supplier of college to learn to do this. Learning the techniques from youtube is very destructive.
Your handling of these small parts is amazing. Even removing a single diode for a wideband modification, I need an assistant on hand with a cloth to wipe the sweat from my forehead. Nice videos Peter, very well made and educational. 73.
Very nice demonstration on surface mount soldering Peter. Great job!
Thank you Buddy! 73
I'm impressed with the way you work with those tiny components. Thanks for the education, Peter!
It would be fun to see Peter soldering the SMD Challange -> www.tindie.com/products/MakersBox/smd-challenge/
glad that you like it 73
LOL, Jörg that is "kleines Kino" take an old smart phone and swap some of the 0201 high density parts that is more a challenge than this little fun board :-)
Jörg Frede Piece of cake...
I love reading the comments of people who have no understanding of how SMD boards are manufactured then they go on and on about how the heat will damage the repaired components.
It never ceases to amaze me how tolerant modern components are to heat.
Who remembers soldering early germanium transistors where excess heat was a big deal and leads were kept long to protect the junction during soldering.
I think I will just keep a spare complete final module on hand! Great job! Thanks!
Your videos always amaze me. How intelligent in electronics you are ...
Great job on the video Peter just wish I could have seen it back transmitting again. It's always good to see broken gear back working again. 73's Dale kg7ssb
Thanks for watching Dale. The unit is working as new. 73
If i tried soldering those little things you would only see the back of my head :-) I do my soldering with a 4 and 7x jewelers loup :-) only burnt my nose once :-( If a friend had one of those repairs to be done I'd give it a try with no guarantee :-) Thanks for the video on the FT817 MOS replacement job.
LOL well OJ I have to work as well with a microscope so no difference to your situation..Thanks for stepping in 73
bitte
Nice Video and you skills are very good. The Icom IC-V8000 has a similar heat sink solution but instead of soldering the driver to the heat sink, the heat sink is soldered to the pads at each side via posts instead of screws. The solder pad provides the path for dissipation to the heat sink. When they fail, PCB repair is required as it burns into the PCB an vaporizes the traces (3 out of 4 so far).
Thanks for feed-back Rick! 73
Wow, looks like a fun job. You make it look easier than it is I'm sure. Nice work!
Well Steve with a little practice it is not so difficult...Thanks for watching 73
That's why I leave it up to the professionals such as yourself Peter, I would start crying if i had to repair that. Cheers *73*
A come on Tom you would get it managed as well....Thanks for your kind comment 73
I drink to much coffee Peter and I get the shakes
Nice job. You could replace the board with a new one but this is 'doing electronics' which to me is what the hobby is about and got to be cheaper than a new board. I've had my FT817ND just over 2 years, no problem with it. I wonder if they blow if used on long overs on f.m. when maybe the heatsink gets too hot. My h/b rig uses two RD006HHF-1 on a heatsink with plenty of air circulation and has operated problem free for years.
73, Bill, G4GHB.
Replacing the board only works for as long as spare boards are available and you're willing to pay for them.
Hello Peter,
you could also simply use aluminium foil for the protection of the other parts. It is much faster to put on and off. If you press it a bit around the parts it stays very well.
73 de DK3JF
sure that is possible as well. Thanks for watching 73
Yes indeed
There are some other tricks with desoldering and reflowing tiny surface mount components I've learned from cell phone repair videos. There's a very low-temp solder called chip-quick. You get a tiny bit of that to mix in with the original solder using an iron before you use the hot air. This way you can further limit the heat exposure to the rest of the board while using the hot air. Gotta clean off the chip quick after with a wick though.
Gotta love the chip quick!
to be honest I don't like chip quick and I do't think that it would much help on this job..Thanks for comment 73
Chip Quik really helps when removing USB charge adapter ports.
Also, if Chip Quik was used on the IC's, they may have dropped from the board when he removed the heat-sink.
Do you not like it because you have experience with using it in this type of repair and it didn't work properly, I have seen it used before on very complex soldering jobs and it seemed to work really well by combining with the existing solder and reducing the melting temps by a lot.
I love these videos :) And having the right equipment is half job done :) Danke schön
Thanks for watching 73
Hey,That Was a Great Job . . .I Hadd No Ideal Of the Set-up in The Ft-817. . .Thanks Again. .All The Best. . .
Thanks for feed back! 73
Many radio amateurs manipulate the power up to 10 watts. Not a good idea as you can see, in normal operation, the mosfets actually keep when the antenna is right ;-)
good job , thumbs up :-)
You are right many operators manipulate the power even up to almost 20 watt but that is not the only reason for blowing the finals. I have seen a lot completely untouched radios with blown finals...Thanks for comment 73
Then I've been lucky that my old FT-817 still works with 5 watts :-)
vy 73 de Uli ( DK6DV )
A new board design usung a power module rather than a pair of MOSFETs may be in order.
My GM320A component tester thinks some of my vintage wirewound potentiometers are inductors, but I guess that's really not unexpected. One of them, which measures 52 ohms across it, has a Q factor of 6550 at 42.14 kilohertz.
Excellent video very professional.keep up the good work
Thanks for vid. Where to buy the MOSFETs for this module please? Is there necessary to adjust something after puting it back to the radio?
Hi, I really liked your video. I'd like to ask you where I can order these mosfets for my Yeasu FT 818 ND. Thank you in advance.🙂
nice job peter as is been wide banded i take it i will work on all of the 11 meter band as well, is that right?
regards
dave
is it possible to use a soldering iron with fine tip instead of heat gun?
Where did you get the tape and the FETs?
Wonderful tutorial. It would have been a nice end point to see the radio working...
Excellent job, but where I get the heat-resistant film or what is it called exactly?
kapton tape
tnx e3s best 73 de Hans (DK3TV)
Great work, thank you for the video, come back soon Peter
Thank you Dennis! 73
Another great job peter what causes the Mos fits to blow? well done mate :) Merry Christmas & Happy New Year for 2019
Thank you John! Well most problematic are the original crappy trimmer for bias adjust..
@@TRXLab I also read that they are EXTREMELY sensible to hi SWR and easily blow... on the 817 that is...
Thanks, an excellent video. MOSFETs on order to do the job! What is the heat deflecting tape you use Peter? I think you said Captain but I can't find any info - looking for a suitable product to protect the board when heating. Also what soldering tool are you using?
It is called kapton tape ... even if it took 6 month maybe it helps.
Very good job !!! What product do you use for clean the pcb after solder? Many thanks, bye. Mike iw3smr
thanks you. I'm using ISO alcohol
So what is the reason these finals are dying so often?
Also notice, that the left side FET has shifted towards the other one.
Nice job! 73.
well search the internet and you will find a lot of reports on this issue and it is not only because the folks cranking up the power output. it also happens to untouched units too. 73
I really wonder how all fry their finals of the FT-817 ND without cranking up the power in the service menu. Mine has survived 10 years of extensive use with several small accidents: Transmitting without antenna, manually tuning shortwave antennas, powering the FT-817 from the car cigarette lighter and accidently with 16.5V, -10 to + 30°C ambient temperature. Still no issues with it.
@@DB7MM You are lucky! I have had them blow 3 times in two different FT817ND radios. I ran my FT817NDs at the rated power level of 5 watts. I never touch the service menus.
@@DB7MM mine also i use a4 amp supply l also use a tuned antenna kg6mn
I own two of them, one first version FT-817 and a newer FT-817 ND. Both of them never had any troubles with their finals. But both of them never carried batteries or accu-packs inside their cases; they always got their power (abt. 10.5 to 11 V) from external power sources. As far as I have read different articles, the first series of the FT-817 (without ND) was especially sensible to finals failure when power dropped too low (abt 7 V) due to forgotten batteries - the finals began to run into self-oscillation without proper termination. On the other side the SK-finals could only bear a maximum of 17 V - and if you run the trx with 13.8 V there is not much spare room until you exceed the maximum of 17 V and burn the finals. The last fault seems to be fixed in the ND because the mosfet finals there now bear a maximum of abt 30 V. It seems that Jesus found a fix for the underpower problem too (the now used mosfets less sensible / different pa construction?), because the NDs never have been reported to fail that often as the older FT-817s do. My advice: keep batteries/accus out of the FT-817 unless you have a real hardware switch to power the device off (the on/off switch of the FT-817 won´t!).
Is it possible to put final boards of 857/897 in a 817nd. I have an 817nd purchased years back which always get very similar reports to my 7300. This is open moded rig and I am at times confused if it's 5 watts or more, I purchased it second hand from USA. 73 de vu3mes Satyan
Peter, this time it was a little late for my breakfast tea..;-) Well done. BTW: I like that solder deskpad, i ordered one 3 weeks ago from BG...i hope its quality is good, it was not the cheapest version. 73!
LOL okay I have to manage it better. Yes this solder deskpads are of great help...Thanks for watching 73
How much temperature do you peel off the mosfet?
Thank nice job Peter but it looks like a pain to do.
Thanks for watching..No with a little practice it is not too hard..73
Why on earth would you replace the finals like that, instead of replacing the board as Yaesu intended?
You turned a 20 minute job into what, an hour or 2?
Yaesu part CB1333001 is your friend.
Ah interesting and what is your proposal on the FT-857 or FT-897?? Beside that the board is much more expensive even with extra labour on the mos fet's. I wonder if you really know this business otherwise you would not make those comments.
Those mosfets rarely blow on the 857 or 897, as they are behind the finals, but even if they did, you are doing this on an 817 with purposely removable finals. The board isn't that expensive, yes it is priced up, but it's not over priced (£50~ according to the last invoice). Once you take into account your time, the stress and the parts, it's easier just to replace the finals board, as Yaesu intended. IF they do some how manage to blow behind a sea of transformers and PA's further down the chain, then doing this would be the only way, just like you would have to on numerous other Yaesu rigs like the FTM-1500.
As for your last comment, everyone else who replaced finals in their 817 replaced the finals unit, because of the chances of cooking the RD07's, the board, or the chance of not being able to get the little stakes in the heatsink to fully connect with both finals.
By the time you've got to the point of removing the heatsink and finals, i'd already have replaced the finals and be sorting out the bias. "I wonder if you really know this business, otherwise you would not make those comments", as you so snobbishly said.
My Late Father who also did Electronic Repairs to Component Level used to Call the Younger So called Technicians Board Swapper,s😉....Which he said any one can do, couple of clips or screws job done but no Expertise or talent needed..Its almost as quick to replace those FETs when you know what your doing.
I need to replace the final transistor in an Icon IC-T90A so I guess the procedure is the same as this but without the cooling block.
Well it is always more or less the same...Thanks for watching 73
Is this video describing how AM demodulation works correct? Just reversing the polarity of the detector diode won't select the upper or lower sideband will it? ua-cam.com/video/vKmQ4PVafAs/v-deo.html
Is the FT818 less susceptible to blowing finals?
Sir question please/ can you use transmitter as an RF signal generator at 50 and 75 ohms output
Theoretical yes, but in my opinion it makes no sense
Hi Peter, thanks for this educational ham video. Just wondering on what temperature you had to desolder with hot air on the unleaded solder and what temp you used to resolderer with leaded solder?
73's
Frank, PA5HF
Hi Frank, 420°C and 380°C...Thanks for watching 73
Thanks Peter, answer is very helpfull.
Hello Peter, What kind of solder flux do you use? Looks like a gel in the video.
it is Amtech NC559-V2 BGA Reflow/Reball Tacky Flux 73
@@TRXLab Thanks for the information. I really appreciate your videos.
Great Job Again Peter. What solder would you recommend for smd soldering?
Thank you John. I'm using 0,32 mm Stannol Kristall 505 www.stannol.de/en/products/solder-wires/?tx_produktselektor_filter%5Baa_prod%5D=Kristall%20505&tx_produktselektor_filter%5Baction%5D=show&tx_produktselektor_filter%5Bcontroller%5D=Product&cHash=02ad1ea48b9a4246363eac8a19bfc4f0
Complete board is 50€/$ but nice video. My old 817 from 2001 still going strong after many thousand QSOs and 115 DXCC.
and thus more expensive than 2 Mos FET's :^)
TRX Bench not sure how much you charge for your time. :-)
well even with the board you have still labour for replacing it and doing the BIAS adjustment for final and exciter stage . So placing 2 MOS FET's may 10 minutes to add to labour time...
3 years today after my comment, my non-ND 2SK PA stage blew up today. 😬
Very interesting. are the replacements better than the original units i wonder. Also,your component tester looks interesting as well.
The RD's are better than 3SK types which has been used before..
Thanks Peter! What temperature did you have the air on, if you don't mind?
Thanks for watching Robert. For desoldering 420°C and for rework 380°C..73
Hi Peter. I just removed a Micro-B charge port from a 2012 Kindle Fire 2nd Gen with my Aoyue Int852A++ and I had to raise the temp to 430C with the air at 50 before it would let loose. And I even added some Chip-Quik to all the pins on both sides of the board. I'm glad it came loose because my Hot-Air unit only goes to 480C. I tried 380, 420, and then 430C. I normally use my Hakko iron but didn't have enough room on this board.
Hi Robert, yeah that is how it goes sometimes ...My basic setting is always 390°C which is suitable to most of the applications. But is does make a difference what nozzle size you use. Often it is very helpful to use a bigger diameter like 7 mm or so...
I used a 3mm nozzle for the charge port. The temperature could be off a little bit even though it's not too old.
This finales must get a lot of hot when you solderd them in! Do you think you could harm them in any way by the soldering? Thank's for another great video. I will send my FT-817 to you if something goes wrong! The best from LB1NH Arild in Oslo Norway. :-)
That is no problem as long you follow the temperature guideline. That means do't toast it for hours.. Otherwise this components are made for it. 73
OK Peter. Thank you for Your answer! You are doing great repears! I have learned a lot from Your videos! The best from LB1NH Arild.
I was told that the finals on the FT-817ND are less prone to blow than on the first version (FT-817 not « ND »). Is that true?
My first FT817ND the finals blew in one year. They blew a second time in 2014. I replaced the radio with a new FT-817ND in 2015. They were dead when I took it to Field Day 2019 after storing the radio for 18 months. A new design is in order if you ask me. Each MOS-FET is rated at 7 watts each. How are they blowing with 5 watts in a push-pull?
Good job Peter!!
Peter, you could have been a brain surgeon. Nice job with the repair! 73...Dan w4mnc
LOL yeah might be but I rather like to be a chip surgeon lol. Thanks for stepping in Dan 73
I am very impressed with how you work with these small components, you have great skill Peter. I have learned a lot from you. 73 de Mike G4VQH
Thank you Mike! 73
I got one hF contact out of my 818 and then it went in he bin.
Great skill!
Great lessons learned when watching you video's Peter 73's de VK6NJP
Glad that my videos are helpful to you! 73
Nice work peter
Thank you Allan! 73
Since heat can damage the various parts of the radio, is there not an issue of heating it up hot enough to melt the solder? At approx. 12:10 mark in video the yellowish colored material (presume it's 'heat-shield?) is discolored and deformed by the heat you've been applying to remove the soldered parts -- how can that amount of heat being sprayed onto the components not cause issues (premature failings of other parts somewhere down the road)?
If an operator brought such a radio in for repair, and indicated that it had been exposed to heat in excess of 400-500 degrees F the excessive heat would be blamed for component failure...yet you indicate you're using approx. 400 degrees C to desolder (400C = 750 degrees F). I do not believe manufacturers intended for adjacent components to be exposed to that level of heat, and believe such exposure to high heat will lead to premature failings of other components.
I have been working on SMD components and hot air for decades. I developed early mobile phones in a time were hot air soldering was more or less unknown. We wrote the fist service instructions for service centres how to service mobile phones and we discussed with chip manufactures chip soldering procedures. And yes chips do have temp profiles and you should exactly know what you are doing but believe me over decades I have not had any problems with this soldering technique..
Wish they had used an RF520 mosfet or somthing You'd only the need one. And be much much more stable at 5w or even 10w.
Or a power module. I think a newly designed board with a power module rather than discrete MOSFETs would be a better solution in the long run.
Very nice job!
Thank you Bob 73
Yup, He Is Very Smart Dude. 😁😁😁😁😁😁😁
LOL Thanks James 73
Removing the MOSFETs was the most important part... and you don't show it. It's a pity...
Come on holding the hot air on the component until the solder melts and you can take the faulty part away is the most important part??? really ??
@@TRXLab IMHO, it is. Hot air gun is a nice way to make a terrible mess in such a small area. Preparation, protections, gestures, gun temperature and height, post-process cleaning... all of these could have been very educational...
@@ElektroLUDIKITS You really need to do a week long course run by a manufacturer, tool supplier of college to learn to do this. Learning the techniques from youtube is very destructive.
Thanks for the great demo Peter!
Thanks for stepping in Dino 73
what is captain
heat resistant tape
ou yeah. great job.
Thank you
Yikes.... first the ceramic filters and now this??
Maybe I should’ve bought a different radio☹️
Good job
you have to use a suction pintch
If you wanna mess with a xts1500 let me know.
Profi an Werk !
great very usefull
Wow
Thanks for watching 73
Peter Good Day do you have Email add Please Pass to me thank you.
missed out the most important bit.. actually removing the transistors .. THEN fails to show a test of the work.. very poor
Too much talking.