Benchmade 51 Morpho How To Disassemble and Install Flytanium Scales
Вставка
- Опубліковано 17 вер 2024
- Today I decide to make a video on how to take apart the bench made 51 and also how to put on Flytanium scales. Let me know if you have any questions or if anything is confusingBenchmade 51 how to Flytanium scales instal assembly disassemble assemble take apart put together
Great upload! Nice Wihas!
11,000 views... Congrats
I can't believe this guy didn't go over literally the only difficult part of the installation....what a waste of bandwidth and everyone's time. "just use a hammer" yeah ok.
For anyone looking for tips on how to install Flytanium scales on the Benchmade 51 Balisong.
Everything about it is intuitive and straightforward, except for one part of the installation, which is when you have to remove the pivot from the handles. The pivot is the what the pivot screw screws into. The entire pivot system on this knife is just two parts. The pivot screw, which obviously just screws out like normal, and then the pivot, which is what the screw screws in to.
The pivot on this knife is installed by being push fit into place using a press You can't push it in with your finger because the tolerances are too tight. This allows the pivot to stay in place (because it's wedged in there) so when you screw the pivot screw in, the back doesn't just spin forever.
Most people will not have a press sitting around their house so this is the tricky part of this installation. The trick here is, how do you remove the pivot since it was originally pushed in by a machine? And how do you do this without ruining the scales or the pivot? The not ruining scales part is the most important part here.
How I did it - I'm only going to explain the concept because it's a difficult process to explain without illustrations or images. OK. so put your common sense thinking cap on pick up the handle with the pivot stuck in it. Now, you have to figure out how to push that pivot out of there without damaging or scratching anything right? What I did was find a piece of scrap leather (you can use thick tape etc) and have that handy for now. Go around your house and find a stair or curt, anything that has a stable ledge with clean edge like a stair step. Place your handle with the pivot stuck in it on the edge of the step with about 1 inch hanging off the step and the pivot head pointed down with the screw hole pointed up so you can screw the pivot screw in it if you wanted to.
At this point you should have your handle with pivot in tact, laying on the edge of a step with just the tip hanging off and the pivot screw hole should be pointed up towards the sky.
Now what you need to do is, hit the screw with a hammer, while you are firmly holding the rest of the handle down so when you hit the pivot screw, the handle doesn't fly up and poke your eye out. If your goal is to hammer the pivot out, it should be obvious to you that you will need to hold the handle in place. Now before you actually do this, you need to address damaging the handle, your stairs, the pivot etc. What I did to avoid damaging anything was to simply use leather and tape to cover anything that touches anything. That's the simplest way to explain it. If any part of any part is touching your stair step, assume it will be scratched and damaged so your job is to pad this but not pad it so much that it will make your hammer strikes ineffective. If you put too much padding, when you strike the screw with the hammer, it won't come out because you just made a shock absorber.
The closer you can get your pivot to the edge of the ledge, the better this will work. The further away the pivot is, or the more the end of the end is hanging off the edge, the harder it will be to make this work. You want the pivot to be like 1 millimeter clear of the edge so when you hammer it, it will pop out below.
There are unlimited ways to accomplish this same task. You can drill a perfectly sized hole in a piece of wood and then use that to accomplish the same thing etc. I only used this stair edge for the example, because it doesn't require you to go and find a drill and a piece of wood with the right sized bit it etc.
After you get it out, use the same mentality to install it into the new handle because it will also need to be hammered into the new handle.
If you need help, you can contact me on my youtube channel by just placing a comment on any of my videos.
Hope this helps.
I aint reading this, just make a video and ill watch it
a common bicycle tool used to remove chain links is basically a screw-press and works great to push back in that pivot pin.
Thanks, fuck this UA-cam guy useless ass video lmao
Thanks for the video. I needed it bad! And I call myself Mr. Fixit. Ha
Should you oil anything other than the washers? Like latch or back spacer pins?
Oil under and on top of the washers. If you've replaced the blade with one that has bushings, oil in-between the bushings and the knife, and on the pivot screw the bushing rests on.
Nice Sebenza. :)
Hey, Matt! I've got the 51-1501 with the blue g10 scales and the liners are not anodized. However, they have the jeweled pattern on them. If I anodize it will the jeweled pattern stay on? Or should i sand it off?
Sorry! I just saw this! I sanded mine off before hand!
Im not sure I hammered in the pivots properly. The blade is not perfectly centered anymore and it become extremely stiff upon putting the screws back in. The only way to get it to flip smoothly is to loosen the screws way too much to the point of where is causes too much handle play. What do I do??? Someone please help. I just got the V9 stonewash scales.
What size bit takes off the screws? On mine a T9 does the bigger screws. But on the smaller ones a T6 feels to small and a 7 is to big
So if you just wanted to put on the handle scales, wouldn't you just take off the scales and replace it with the flytanium? I am seriously confused as to why you had to dissemble the whole thing
You should clean it any chance you get. Dust and dirt build up from flipping outside can slow action down in the pivots. And the video was how to disassemble the 51, and then add flytanium scales
what type of oil do you use?
+Alonso Casas I use Nano Oil. It works great for all knives :)
How tight do you make the pivot screws. Got my knife new and were just snug
On the Benchmade 51, do i need to remove pressure pivot pin if i am only installing trainer blade?
when i use the stock 51 blade its impossible to flip because its so stiff, but when i use the zenith trainer blaade it flips smooth. do you know any solutions?
You can make sure you're lubing or oiling the blade and washers and do not over tighten the screws. Also do not over lube or oil the washers because the buildup can make it stiff. did you hammer in the pivot pins? sometimes that can cause stiffness
What balisong model was the black one on the left at the beginning?
Do you recommend using loctite on the pivot screws? Or anything for that matter
You can use blue loctite or a very small amount of red loctite.
for channel balis it doesnt really matter since the screws doesnt do much other than holding the handles and the blade together, but for a 51 you should use loctite to reduce play.
And if you accidentally put too much and you cant unscrew them, just use a hairdryer to heat it up because the screws will get fucked up if you forced them too much.
How do you like the flytanium scales on that knife?
the Zen pin keeps spinning. fix?
DaBoredom squese the handles together to put pressure on it. Or use pliers and hold it steady with those
What's the black Bali on the left?
Hey, I am wondering theoretically could I make a custom out of parts for the 51? i:E Flyatnium scales a blade and all the hardware things
Do you mean just buy separate parts and build one? I was literally just thinking that...
@@nikobuerk346 that exactly, yes. like buy the spacers, liners, handles, washers/bushings, blade, and all that. would it work?
@@challengerjj9760 I don't know. It's such an interesting concept though. I hear everyone on this platform talk about how they bought one and then basically replaced/upgraded everything. So it begs the question. And if one were to do that would it be cheaper that way? I know some of the flytanium blades for them are pretty pricey and I'd imagine some of the smaller bits arent manufactured a lot by others (some of those weird pegs and spacers around the latch and stuff) and would lead me to believe that they are also a bit expensive to buy. WHY IS NO ONE TALKING ABOUT IT THOUGH?😂😂😂
@@nikobuerk346 Right!? I watched Will Hirsch's video on it and he said his is basically a custom at this point. so I am thinking I could try and do that. Without every buying a 51
My scales just arrived today I have all the tools but I'm really nervous.. I also don't have loctite , any tips ?
the lurk don't be nervous! As long as you keep track of all the pieces there's nothing you can do to it that you can't fix :)
Matty Lavs forsure dude, thanks for the solid tutorial
the lurk no problem man. Let me know if you have any questions. The toughest part is probably getting the pivot pins out and setting them in new scales
Matty Lavs forsure do I need to loctite the bolts ?
How do I take off a strip screw in the 51? the smaller ones
Adrian Martinez order new ones off of bladehq then maybe order a benchmade blue box while your there
I would drill 2 microscopic holes in the screw head, essentially making my own pattern like phillips flathead etc. Then bend a paperclip into a 2 prong bit that perfectly fits into those holes. Then use a vice grip to hold the paperclip and now you use this vice grips to unscrew the screw because it's too hard to hold the paperclip by hand and unscrew the screw. But with the vice grips, it's as easy as a screw driver.
150 subs? This is my second vid watched and I thought you had like 1.5k!
What kind of screwdriver did you use for the 51?
Torx drivers. I 100% suggest Wiha. Most well made brand and they have never stripped a screw for me. The 51 takes T6 (Bodies) and T8 (Pivots) Heres a set on amazon, or you can just order the T6 and T8 www.amazon.com/Wiha-26791-Precision-T1-T8-8-Piece/dp/B00CSWY50O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477447123&sr=8-1&keywords=torx+set+wiha
Or you can order something like this: www.amazon.com/Wiha-75985-Handle-Storage-MicroBit/dp/B00XIPTG4A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1477447352&sr=8-2&keywords=torx+set+wiha
Where are the liners from
i have a dumb question, what is the name of the metal sheet kind of thing under the scale?? its the part that gets anodized and i need to look stuff up for that part but idk what to call it when looking it up
It's called the Liner. The Morpho 51 has jeweled, anodized Titanium liners, which give it that texture (jeweled) and blue color (anodized). Hope that helps!
Where did you get this scales from ?
Blade hq