Good ideas. I have been building the "Nick" series supers but have yet to try a harvest - next year. My original builds had the larger super but I will be cycling those into bases of new hives. I am nowhere as neat as Doug - but the bees don't care. I have used cypress (50x100 dressed is best) so far but found Bunnings had a useful meranti size for series supers so made one to try. It is on an eduction now. What I did discover was when we had a bush rescue where we recovered a lot of rubbish with honey and pollen well mixed. It was not too hard to separate the honey but it had a lot of pollen in it. To clean it was as simple as using ordinary kitchen paper towels with a funnel. Fold the towel so it looks like a coffee dripulator filter (those might work just as well) and loose fit in the funnel. It takes a few days and with really dirty honey might need a change or two (squeeze out the old into the new). But ended up with clean honey. Nice!
Michael Stark great tips there! I am sure there will be a lot of keepers that will give those a go. Good video you made on what’s needed for a hive too!! 👍🏻👍🏻
Michael Stark after 15-18months of experimenting (much of this time in drought) I now think frame depths of 18mm are ideal. I also believe that the longer honey is left in the hive the more it takes on the strong resinous flavours. This is why I experimented with shallow frames (supers) which could fill faster and be extracted earlier and result in better flavour. A single layer of pots which have only been very lightly spiked seem more acceptable to the bees for reuse. Best results are obtained when only one frame at a time is reintroduced. Still early days but very encouraging. Doug Irvine
Beautiful design, it's very different with here in Indonesia.. they used like a suction machine to harvest the honey, in some case we could find the honey and the brood are placed in one chamber.. thanks for sharing..
Just getting into native bees. Might seem silly, but if you have a divider below the super, would it not block out the bees.. how do the bees get the honey in there?
@@nanetteirvine6864 , thank you Doug. Appreciate the reply... and congratulations on your design concept. Definitely a game changer.. and I agree totally with your "KISS" mindset. Thank you for sharing you expertise.
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Doug is a champion. I love all his problem solving and looking for better ways to keep bees.
What a champion truly a master hive maker and bee keeper
Cheers mate! Some great ideas and yes simple is usually an important part of a successful idea 👍
Love your work.
Those hives are beautiful. Great series Nick 👍🏼
I love the hoola hoop!
Tq for sharing Nick! This is just great. He is super genius indeed.
Good ideas. I have been building the "Nick" series supers but have yet to try a harvest - next year. My original builds had the larger super but I will be cycling those into bases of new hives. I am nowhere as neat as Doug - but the bees don't care. I have used cypress (50x100 dressed is best) so far but found Bunnings had a useful meranti size for series supers so made one to try. It is on an eduction now.
What I did discover was when we had a bush rescue where we recovered a lot of rubbish with honey and pollen well mixed. It was not too hard to separate the honey but it had a lot of pollen in it.
To clean it was as simple as using ordinary kitchen paper towels with a funnel. Fold the towel so it looks like a coffee dripulator filter (those might work just as well) and loose fit in the funnel. It takes a few days and with really dirty honey might need a change or two (squeeze out the old into the new). But ended up with clean honey. Nice!
Michael Stark great tips there! I am sure there will be a lot of keepers that will give those a go. Good video you made on what’s needed for a hive too!! 👍🏻👍🏻
Michael Stark after 15-18months of experimenting (much of this time in drought) I now think frame depths of 18mm are ideal. I also believe that the longer honey is left in the hive the more it takes on the strong resinous flavours. This is why I experimented with shallow frames (supers) which could fill faster and be extracted earlier and result in better flavour.
A single layer of pots which have only been very lightly spiked seem more acceptable to the bees for reuse. Best results are obtained when only one frame at a time is reintroduced. Still early days but very encouraging.
Doug Irvine
Incredible knowledge and craftsmanship! Thank you for sharing
Beautiful design, it's very different with here in Indonesia.. they used like a suction machine to harvest the honey, in some case we could find the honey and the brood are placed in one chamber.. thanks for sharing..
Thanks, nice info...🙏🏻🙏🏻
Thank you heaps mate
Very good
Great videos Nick! I wonder do you know if you could get Russell Zabel to do one?
Sam Higgins I did him really early in the piece but there is no video of him.
Have you got a jig for the finger joints?
Just getting into native bees. Might seem silly, but if you have a divider below the super, would it not block out the bees.. how do the bees get the honey in there?
I like the hand spinner, do you sell them?
So if 32 mm is to big mate what is that depth ? 25mm ? Thx
Um forte abraço 😃👍
Wh! Fantastic, is this machine work in stingless bees trigona irdippennis seen across Kerala, India?
Anoop Sebastian yes but I think you will need a smaller hive for that species?
@@australiannativebee3662 OK, thanks
What depth are Doug's "frames" ?
Julian Dargan my frames are 18mm deep
Doug
@@nanetteirvine6864 , thank you Doug. Appreciate the reply... and congratulations on your design concept. Definitely a game changer.. and I agree totally with your "KISS" mindset. Thank you for sharing you expertise.