Hey Dave! I hear you say you have considered a condensing hive, but it's not for you. Here is what I'm wondering about though. Have you checked the temperature in your hives, and compared between a top vented hive vs. a non-top-vented condensing hive? My thought is, if the latter raises the temperature in the hive a lot, it may be worth having a non-top-vented hive. My fear is you are always going to have a lot of heat escape the hive when you top vent. Of course, you would have to make sure no condensation drops down on the bees, but that's part of making a correct condensing hive. If it raises the temperature in your hive, there will be so many advantages: Lots less dying bees, bees not having to work as hard to keep alive, bees consuming less food, better chance of raising brood. Your thoughts? (I'm on my second year as a beekeeper, so still learning a lot! And huge thanks for all your wonderful videos, I've learned a lot from you! )
I should add, I'm currently top venting, but I'm considering changing to condensing. I live in IL (a little outside St. Louis) as well, and I added a temp sensor, and already this year we have been down to 25 degrees, and that day the temp in the hive dropped down to 27... so I'm a little worried about that...
Completely understandable! So how about your hive temperature? I do remember you using a temperature sensor in some of your hives. When it does get in the 20’s and below, does your sensor show almost the same temperature inside the hive as well? (Maybe just 3-4 degrees warmer?) I would think that would be really rough on the bees, causing a lot of them to die, maybe unnecessarily if condensing hive would help in this matter. I’m new to this, so I’m willing to try “new” things, if it sounds like it might work better.
I use quilt box as my top venting device, which was packed with 2" of wood shavings and has two 1-inch side holes. It is also a place for my hive sensor through winter. The moisture would vent through the box, but heat seems maintained. I had moisture and mold problem before I use the quilt box. There is no exit for bees on top, only bottom. I have wrappings outside the hive. Among my 18 hives, the temp could be 10 to 20 degree higher than outside.
Is feeding pollen during the winter a good idea if they are constantly flying during the warm part of the day? I have a round feeder on top with dry sugar on the hive.(I’m in South Carolina.)
Hey David. Do you place any type of parchment paper or anything on your winter bee kind between the insulation and the food source/candy? Or place it directly onto the insulation board?
Rather than using cardboard for the bottom clean out it might be better to use the back side of vinyl signs ( for sale sighs). They are thinner and not impacted by moisture.
Dave, I Just bought 3lbs of bees for spring of 2024 I see a lot of videos on getting bees but it seems that everyone has a frame with food,brood and so on. I have none of that all I have is a hive and frames. Do you have a video on that? What can I do to feed my bees when they come. Thank you
I can see you are at the very beginning of your journey so you HAVE to take a class. But to answer your specific question I recommend my feeding system for a new package. It goes on top of your hive.
Nice video David. I would like to mention when putting the reducer in if you turn the opening towards the bottom, it is easier for bees to drag the dead bees out. They do not have to pull them over the big lip. Keep the videos coming please.
In winter they tend not to housekeep as much, so the dead bees collect more at the bottom, possibly blocking the reduced entrance, hence it being placed upside down and the cardboard slider to clean it out for them. You'd place the reducer right side up again closer to spring as they are getting active again.
I would rather completely remove the entrance board. It's not needed until late summer and then the bees can clean out the dead bees by pushing them out and it cannot clog. If you put it the way in the video, the dead bees will collect in the bottom and clog the screen and eventually possibly even get moldy unless the beekeeper regularly checks and removes them in late winter
I use a metal grid for mice protection. It has a mesh width of 7mm, that way bees can get in and out but mice cannot get in. Alternatively I have those plastic entrance boards that have about 25 small holes for bees over the whole width of the hive, but some mice might chew through them, so far I did not see that though. I only have to remove dead bees in the spring once to make it a bit easier, some hives will not have many dead bees left by that time.
I removed the entrance reducer completely. We are now in sub zero temperatures here in Canada and the moisture from the bees is collecting and freezing solid, sealing the bpottom of the hive completely. In fact the dead bees were building up behind the ice and I had to chip it all away to clear them out.
TY! I broke the propolis to put the entrance reducer in but I won't be doing that again I usually wait to put my candy boards on but with the warmer weather, I'm going to start making them this week and get 'em on next week. I think the bees are probably ready for them. 6 year beekeeper here
I bought a couple of your empty winter bee kinds that I’m about to make up for my hive. I cannot remember where I saw the recipe you suggest. Can you point me to it? Thanks.
Im in B.C Canada. We had a big cold snap then it turned mild. I have sensors in 6 of my hives. I have noticed one hive has moved all the way up to the inner cover. I don't put emergency feed in my hives so now there is no feed above them but 2 mediums full of honey below them. Do you think they will move back down? Its been 3 weeks they have been camping out up top. Should I trust them to move down into the honey or should I put feed above them?
David, From watching your videos I have gained so much knowledge as a beginner Beekeeper. I think your videos are very well presented, it's like taking classes. I have a strong Hive going into winter and so far have no dead loss yet. I have a double deep Hive body. They did a brood break and don't have to use energy to attend to brood. I noticed they have moved the cluster to the upper chamber. I presume for warmth as heat rises. Not sure if they ran through the resources in the lower chamber. Nevertheless I put a winter feed on the Hive, Dadant winter blend patties. Figured if they need the feed they will consume it. I live 2 hrs from Louisville here in Kentucky and was wondering on which days you are speaking as I don't see a program anywhere as to how things are scheduled. I plan to expand depending on how well this hive does and attending this conference would be an asset for learning more
December is definitely a depressing month for this beekeeper since I lost my only hive about a month ago. Not sure if the queen left, got killed (couldn't find a corpse) or what, but my beekeeping year is over. I'll have to see if I want to spend the money on new bees in the spring, on the one hand I feel like I can do better with them next time thanks to your videos, on the other hand it's hard to be potentially throwing away $200 a pop on a nuc or two in the spring. Not sure if it's time to cut my losses despite the pretty substantial investment I've made into the hobby so far.
Are you far from MA? If close, I could sell you a nuc at the cost of materials in the spring ($50). I am at the point of keeping my hive numbers under control.
Sorry to hear your bees died, that's unfortunate. When I'm faced with wondering if I should cut my losses or continue, I also factor things in such as how much value it added to my life, such as fresh air, exercise, focus, interest in a hobby etc.
I was initially afraid of the bees, but I've grown so fond of them, almost considering them as my little friendly pets! :D Sometimes feeding them sugar water with a chicken water feeder, and sometimes just sitting right next to it, dipping my finger tip in it, and the bees landing on my hand, feeding from my hand. They imprint on you quickly, and later when you're outside, they will recognize you, and come check you out, if you have any food for them. I guess that could be both good and bad, but I think it's really soothing for the soul! Never in my life thought these little stinging insects could get so personal and friendly. I would not want to be without them! :) Anyway, I also lost my one and only hive my first year. Now on my second year, having two hives, hoping at least one hive will survive the winter, and if one happens to die, hoping I then can split the surviving hive later and that way maintain my bees for "free".
Have you considered making a winter bee kind for a layens framed hive? Maybe make a frame with the winter bee kind integrated into the frame. Just an idea.
Thanks!
Wow, thank you soooooooooooo much for the SUPER THANKS!!
@@beek David u are very welcome been watching u for years Thanks for your videos.
Hello David! I am from the Philippines. I love your videos. They help me to learn more about beekeeping🥰 Hope to purchase queens from you.❤
Hey Dave! I hear you say you have considered a condensing hive, but it's not for you. Here is what I'm wondering about though. Have you checked the temperature in your hives, and compared between a top vented hive vs. a non-top-vented condensing hive? My thought is, if the latter raises the temperature in the hive a lot, it may be worth having a non-top-vented hive. My fear is you are always going to have a lot of heat escape the hive when you top vent. Of course, you would have to make sure no condensation drops down on the bees, but that's part of making a correct condensing hive. If it raises the temperature in your hive, there will be so many advantages: Lots less dying bees, bees not having to work as hard to keep alive, bees consuming less food, better chance of raising brood. Your thoughts? (I'm on my second year as a beekeeper, so still learning a lot! And huge thanks for all your wonderful videos, I've learned a lot from you! )
I should add, I'm currently top venting, but I'm considering changing to condensing. I live in IL (a little outside St. Louis) as well, and I added a temp sensor, and already this year we have been down to 25 degrees, and that day the temp in the hive dropped down to 27... so I'm a little worried about that...
It’s hard to change years and years of success to see if something else works. 😄
Completely understandable! So how about your hive temperature? I do remember you using a temperature sensor in some of your hives. When it does get in the 20’s and below, does your sensor show almost the same temperature inside the hive as well? (Maybe just 3-4 degrees warmer?) I would think that would be really rough on the bees, causing a lot of them to die, maybe unnecessarily if condensing hive would help in this matter. I’m new to this, so I’m willing to try “new” things, if it sounds like it might work better.
I studied the temp and humidity in the hive years ago and the bees always kept it the same, no matter the outside temp.
I use quilt box as my top venting device, which was packed with 2" of wood shavings and has two 1-inch side holes. It is also a place for my hive sensor through winter. The moisture would vent through the box, but heat seems maintained. I had moisture and mold problem before I use the quilt box. There is no exit for bees on top, only bottom. I have wrappings outside the hive. Among my 18 hives, the temp could be 10 to 20 degree higher than outside.
Is feeding pollen during the winter a good idea if they are constantly flying during the warm part of the day? I have a round feeder on top with dry sugar on the hive.(I’m in South Carolina.)
Hey David. Do you place any type of parchment paper or anything on your winter bee kind between the insulation and the food source/candy? Or place it directly onto the insulation board?
Directly on the insulation board as long as it is metal coated.
Rather than using cardboard for the bottom clean out it might be better to use the back side of vinyl signs ( for sale sighs). They are thinner and not impacted by moisture.
True but I try to use items everyone has lying around.
Great tips David!
Dave, I Just bought 3lbs of bees for spring of 2024 I see a lot of videos on getting bees but it seems that everyone has a frame with food,brood and so on. I have none of that all I have is a hive and frames. Do you have a video on that? What can I do to feed my bees when they come. Thank you
I can see you are at the very beginning of your journey so you HAVE to take a class. But to answer your specific question I recommend my feeding system for a new package. It goes on top of your hive.
Nice video David. I would like to mention when putting the reducer in if you turn the opening towards the bottom, it is easier
for bees to drag the dead bees out. They do not have to pull them over the big lip. Keep the videos coming please.
In winter they tend not to housekeep as much, so the dead bees collect more at the bottom, possibly blocking the reduced entrance, hence it being placed upside down and the cardboard slider to clean it out for them. You'd place the reducer right side up again closer to spring as they are getting active again.
Thank you Dave for all your videos, God bless, Have a Very Merry CHRISTmas.
I would rather completely remove the entrance board. It's not needed until late summer and then the bees can clean out the dead bees by pushing them out and it cannot clog. If you put it the way in the video, the dead bees will collect in the bottom and clog the screen and eventually possibly even get moldy unless the beekeeper regularly checks and removes them in late winter
I need mice protection.
I use a metal grid for mice protection. It has a mesh width of 7mm, that way bees can get in and out but mice cannot get in. Alternatively I have those plastic entrance boards that have about 25 small holes for bees over the whole width of the hive, but some mice might chew through them, so far I did not see that though. I only have to remove dead bees in the spring once to make it a bit easier, some hives will not have many dead bees left by that time.
I removed the entrance reducer completely. We are now in sub zero temperatures here in Canada and the moisture from the bees is collecting and freezing solid, sealing the bpottom of the hive completely. In fact the dead bees were building up behind the ice and I had to chip it all away to clear them out.
Looking forward to receive my winter bee kind boards! Thanks, Kevin
IAM IN UGANDA: HOW CAN I BUY YOUR BOOK 'Backyard Beekeeping: Everything You Need To Know To Start Your First Hive'
Not sure, but you can try Amazon.
TY! I broke the propolis to put the entrance reducer in but I won't be doing that again
I usually wait to put my candy boards on but with the warmer weather, I'm going to start making them this week and get 'em on next week. I think the bees are probably ready for them. 6 year beekeeper here
What about the sugar water and protein wafers boards that you use to make? I bought them.
What is R value of Winter-Bee-Kind board?
No sure sorry
I bought a couple of your empty winter bee kinds that I’m about to make up for my hive. I cannot remember where I saw the recipe you suggest. Can you point me to it? Thanks.
It has always been on our website at the bottom of the winter bee kind product page: www.honeybeesonline.com/10f-winter-bee-kind-sold-out-for-2023/
Im in B.C Canada. We had a big cold snap then it turned mild. I have sensors in 6 of my hives. I have noticed one hive has moved all the way up to the inner cover. I don't put emergency feed in my hives so now there is no feed above them but 2 mediums full of honey below them. Do you think they will move back down? Its been 3 weeks they have been camping out up top. Should I trust them to move down into the honey or should I put feed above them?
What do you think about having shavings in 1/2 of your hive top feeder to catch moisture? 8:58
I think a bad thingabout having shavings is yes they absorb the moisture, but when they do that and it gets below freezing those chips freeze!
We’re you able to make a winter bee kind for your long langstroth? I remember it didn’t fit when you tried it out in that video
Soon hopefully
Thanks!
Dziękujemy.
Thanks so much!!
Love the floor. Wood or vinyl. Who is the manufacturer and model name.
Thanks, vinyl. No idea of the manufacturer or model name. I'll check and let you know.
It's Timeless Designs Irresistible Collection Fissure Oak
David,
Should I remove the inner cover when using WBK? Or is it ok to leave it on?
Remove it.
@@beek thanks David. I hoping to leave the inner cover on and just let them come thru the hole. I’ll remove them. Thanks for the response
I got my winter be kinds. 😊 Thanks David and Sheri 😊
Great to hear Brian
I been using the winter bee kind boards 4 yrs now and they work. Ventilation is also critical for the hive to survive the winter. GREAT VIDEO
Good to know!
That is a wonderful idea. I am perfect solutions for my winter situation. Thank you so much for everything that you share.
The bit with your book was very funny! (See what I did there?)
Good one!
oh i wish your winter bee kind 10 frame wasnt sold out!
Me too 😉
Some might available soon, we’re trying.
ok thanks ill keep checking!@@beek
I'm doing all I can to convince my team to make more after Christmas. Never been done before, but I can be pretty convincing. Fingers crossed.
Sir aap kaha kaha migration karte hai
Just seeing where the bees were when you opened the hive made me feel better about my bees behavior! This is my first winter❤
Yes they were clustered low and not many dead bees yet.
David, From watching your videos I have gained so much knowledge as a beginner Beekeeper. I think your videos are very well presented, it's like taking classes. I have a strong Hive going into winter and so far have no dead loss yet. I have a double deep Hive body. They did a brood break and don't have to use energy to attend to brood. I noticed they have moved the cluster to the upper chamber. I presume for warmth as heat rises. Not sure if they ran through the resources in the lower chamber. Nevertheless I put a winter feed on the Hive, Dadant winter blend patties. Figured if they need the feed they will consume it. I live 2 hrs from Louisville here in Kentucky and was wondering on which days you are speaking as I don't see a program anywhere as to how things are scheduled.
I plan to expand depending on how well this hive does and attending this conference would be an asset for learning more
Thanks for your kind comments. I haven’t heard the schedule yet either.
Kya aap migration karte hai sir
December is definitely a depressing month for this beekeeper since I lost my only hive about a month ago. Not sure if the queen left, got killed (couldn't find a corpse) or what, but my beekeeping year is over. I'll have to see if I want to spend the money on new bees in the spring, on the one hand I feel like I can do better with them next time thanks to your videos, on the other hand it's hard to be potentially throwing away $200 a pop on a nuc or two in the spring. Not sure if it's time to cut my losses despite the pretty substantial investment I've made into the hobby so far.
Set up swarm traps in the spring.
Are you far from MA? If close, I could sell you a nuc at the cost of materials in the spring ($50). I am at the point of keeping my hive numbers under control.
Sorry to hear your bees died, that's unfortunate. When I'm faced with wondering if I should cut my losses or continue, I also factor things in such as how much value it added to my life, such as fresh air, exercise, focus, interest in a hobby etc.
I was initially afraid of the bees, but I've grown so fond of them, almost considering them as my little friendly pets! :D
Sometimes feeding them sugar water with a chicken water feeder, and sometimes just sitting right next to it, dipping my finger tip in it, and the bees landing on my hand, feeding from my hand. They imprint on you quickly, and later when you're outside, they will recognize you, and come check you out, if you have any food for them. I guess that could be both good and bad, but I think it's really soothing for the soul! Never in my life thought these little stinging insects could get so personal and friendly. I would not want to be without them! :)
Anyway, I also lost my one and only hive my first year. Now on my second year, having two hives, hoping at least one hive will survive the winter, and if one happens to die, hoping I then can split the surviving hive later and that way maintain my bees for "free".
hang in bro, im first year too, keep learning, pkg in spring, split in june, too soon to give up!
Have you considered making a winter bee kind for a layens framed hive? Maybe make a frame with the winter bee kind integrated into the frame. Just an idea.
Working on it, thanks.
@@beek 👍🙂
Thanks!
Thanks!
Thank you soooo much for the SUPER THANKS!!!!