@@MissingLinkMTB 80 mm, I can empathize the search for one. I have some bikes with droppers where they are longer than my leg can extend on the pedals, so I always have to do the standing position where myself for the "estimated high post height", press the lever and let it stop where it's good. I do a lot more freeriding and trials riding so for me, as long as that saddle can be as out of the way as possible when I need it to, it's the best I can hope for!
My GT looks very similar to the one in this vid. GT Coupe duMond I drive team Race Edition KU1K0825. I hope you can help because I'm having a helluva time finding information. Q: Are Alivio Shimano rear derailleurs compatible? Doesn't seem to fit right. I am a novice mechanic take into mind but the derailleur slightly impedes putting on the rear wheel. Grip shifters came on it and a rear Vbrake and ESP derailleur. Overwhelmed here with the complex details and compatibility issues. Thanks for your time.
Hi Seamus, The ESP derailleur is likely on there because it is compatible with Sram's grip shift system and using a Shimano Alivio shifter may not be compatible. There could be a number of reasons it may not fit right and because I haven't seen your bike in person, it's hard to say. But at least see if the rear derailleur hanger is aligned, it isn't bent. And then find a UA-cam or source video where you can see how a rear derailleur is installed and how to tune it, such as something like this: ua-cam.com/video/IN4-jFRD8-Q/v-deo.html But generally, Grip Shift and Shimano have changed so much over the years that really, regarding compatibility, the best thing to do is ask your bike shop and normally the answer is free. Also, it may not hurt to save some money and find a bike shop that allows you to sit somewhere and just watch how the things that need to be done on your bike are performed and use that as a learning opportunity. There are lots of mechanics who can give you pretty good advice.
Hi, Yuri, hope you don’t mind me asking you a question. I have a 2004 I drive comp. I’m swapping out the triple set up to a 1x9 and need to remove the cranks. On Turing the pedals there is a sticking spot and I’m thinking of changing the bb. Is removing the bb the same process to that on other bikes without the I drive system? Thanks in advance.
Hi Tony, Removing the BB on these iDrive bikes is no different than any other bike. I know it may seem that the eccentric bb shell might make you think something else is required or will be affected but it is attached to the frame independent of the bb itself.
Hi Yuri, hopefully you can help me. Ongoing upgrades to my GT i drive…I’d like to upgrade my rear fox vanilla coil shock 600 x 1.63 to a fox float equivalent. What does these measurements stand for? Is 1.63 the distance from eye to eye? What does the 600 mean and what size should I look for as I can only see models at 165. Thanks!
Love your bike! I’m looking to buy an idrive…just restored my 97 avalanche. Could you use a wolf tooth link and keep your derailleur if you upgrade your cassette?
The Avalanches were a really good option back then, I couldn't mow enough lawns to buy one at the time though. Regarding a Wolftooth link, I did not have to use one when I swapped the drivetrain out to a 1 x 10 (32T front, 11-42T rear cassette) combination. Here's the bike currently: ua-cam.com/video/6xS-RTVdl9o/v-deo.html
I'm still rocking my 2001 iDrive 5.0. I'm finally watching videos on it and learning how it all works. :) Always kept it indoors so it's still in pretty damn good shape! I think I bought this thing on sale for $490 plus tax in the early 2000s.
For this particular bike, you can get a nice PNW rebuilt dropper on the cheap with a one year warranty: Seatpost diameter is 30.9, however you could get a 30.9 to 27.2 shim if you're really in a pinch. I'd recommend the external, 30.9/125 mm PNW dropper posts. I think anything above 125 mm will be too tall for this bike. cycled.pnwcomponents.com/collections/externally-routed-dropper-posts/products/cascade-dropper-post
@@yuri_on_youtube I appreciate it. I asked before I saw the section where you covered the dropper so I removed the comment/question on it. I measured up mine and it seems to be a 31.6. I measured it many times. I just grabbed the KS eTen in 31.6. Hopefully it fits. If not, I'll return it. The V2s are all out of stock. I was thinking about that one. I may try the Cascade if nothing else works. I'm just hoping the KS eTen doesn't hit the shock but judging from yours, it shouldn't.
You’re kidding me, that’s like 70% off. So cheap. I used to drool over these in the magazines back when I was a kid. Seemed like an awesome cross country blend
Nice build, i miss my idrive got a stumpjumper at the moment 😓 Team and race models had 3.5" travel at the back, the standard idrives had 4.3. You can pick these bikes up cheap now (and many in mint condition having had little use) and they are fantastic to ride. Oh and those are IS disc mounts not flat mounts.
Yuri I cant find the 3 screws that go on the I Drive with washer. any help on this friend, i would appreciate it. oh and also put a smaller crank set. I need help with the chain derail by the seat post. I have a XC 4000 GT.
Here, download this - It is the maintenance guide to the GT iDrive. Let me know when you do as I'm going to remove the link at some point. docs.google.com/document/d/1VI6Ey9OkTwX9v-J7x17rKpL6MiguT1yt/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=115123007597489094274&rtpof=true&sd=true What's going on with the front derailleur?
Thanks Thomy. I redid the bike again so I'll have to share that vid pretty soon. $200 is a nice fair price. I take it you're planning on buying one of these classic iDrives?
Hello, I'm trying to recover my old idrive 4.0 2001, but I lost the shock , and I'm asking which shock length can install, I hope you could answer, please Greetings from Mexico :)
I am also building my 2001 iDrive 2.0!! would love more info on the part numbers for the crankset you used (what BB did you use??) and the dropper post. Thank you.
It has undergone some major changes since the video! 1. PNW 30.9 mm x 120 mm internally routed dropper post from: cycled.pnwcomponents.com/ Mated to a Paul's Dropper Trigger in anodized blue: www.paulcomp.com/shop/components/mounting-solutions/dropper-trigger/ 2. 1 x 10 set up. Had to replaced the XTR brake lever/shifter pods, so it runs a Shimano 10 speed Zee shifter with Avid Speed Dial 7 levers and a Shimano Deore 10 speed long cage rear derailleur, Sunrace 11-42T and Wolftooth Goat Link. For BB, I am using a Shimano XT-BB-MT800 that is compatible with both 68 and 73 mm wide English threaded BB shells. Crankset, RaceFace discontinued this model crankset and it's nothing to write home about. On eBay, search for "10 speed Shimano crankset" and that'll give you lots of options. The other trick is to find a 9 speed Alivio 104 BCD that's available for $50 and 1x it with a RaceFace narrow wide chainring in a 104 BCD unless you want to run 9 speeds with a double chainring which is fine too.
It's a really good question and yes, I personally can tell you that I've had a few iDrives crack under me but this is the type of riding I regularly do: ua-cam.com/video/lzBIAW0_t5c/v-deo.html I think if you're an XC rider and you normally don't ride in muddy condition, don't hit >2 foot drops or jumps every ride, it'll probably last you long enough to replace if/when it does finally develop stress fractures. Personally, I wouldn't spend more than $300 (USD). If you want an iDrive without breaking the bank, I'd look at finding the 2010 - 2014 GT Sensor because they're easier to maintain, easier to find parts and unless you neglect maintenance, the frame is more durable than the first generation of iDrives.
I can do one better! I converted a GT iDrive service poster into a Word doc and it'll give you all the thorough service info you need to service these first gen iDrives! Let me know that you can actually access it by replying on here. docs.google.com/document/d/1VI6Ey9OkTwX9v-J7x17rKpL6MiguT1yt/edit?usp=drive_link&ouid=115123007597489094274&rtpof=true&sd=true
@@yuri_on_youtube Thanks so much. I'm getting conflicting numbers from everybody but in the same ballpark. My two choices are yours or m6x30 & m6x45 so I'll have to wait until I can figure it out myself. I was gonna order it in advance because I don't have the frame nor the shock with me right now.
@@DescubriendoLaFlorida I stand corrected and I should have realized - I actually have the schematic and service guides! See attached from my Google Drive - They are M6s. drive.google.com/file/d/1PvCaHG0MiLbawjd8cByjAtfIHj-fiSI9/view?usp=sharing
@@DescubriendoLaFlorida I salvaged this old document - It's how to service the GT iDrives of that iteration. Save this as well. docs.google.com/document/d/1VI6Ey9OkTwX9v-J7x17rKpL6MiguT1yt/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=115123007597489094274&rtpof=true&sd=true
You have some off the shelf options. Search for a 6.5" x 1.5" rear shock. Fox will give you the best value in my opinion, such as this one: www.probikesupply.com/products/2020-fox-float-dps-3pos-ano-performance-shock-optional-mounting-hardware?variant=19469240598595¤cy=USD&gclid=CjwKCAjwh7H7BRBBEiwAPXjadu82zxEuylvxLTMvXL8ch_8Z5HhzG-cHrwkKiiZASOBerW3yTgycLhoCOA8QAvD_BwE Another option is having your rear shock rebuilt or buy a new rear shock from Risse Racing: www.risseracing.com/gt.shtml
These first iteration eccentric bottom brackets can be a bear to work on. With the help of another GT first iteration iDrive owner who has the actual GT iDrive service poster that I put into a Word document, here's how to service these iDrives: drive.google.com/file/d/1VI6Ey9OkTwX9v-J7x17rKpL6MiguT1yt/view?usp=sharing
@@seankoh2095 Depends on where you live (shipping) and what part you are looking for. I have used this company for many retro GT parts. www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/product-category/gt-parts/ I also buy up GT RTS, LTS and first generation iDrive frames that are broken/very inexpensive, take apart the entire frame and sell the parts to other GT vintage full suspension owners so they have parts. So, just reach out to me with that you're looking for because even if I don't have it, I may be able to point you in the right direction.
GT idrive, during the days, "only" rich kids ride idrive's. The son of a Mayor in my place who sometimes rode with us, he has an idrive with custom color, when sunlight hits the brown frame it gradually changes to like purple-ish then back to brownish. but the specs is almost thesame as you idrive and i like the race color of your idrive, i believe there is a jersy matching your bike.
I have a question maybe you can help I have a 2001 gt idrive 6.0 trying to get a new stem would you know measurements on that if not thanks anyways video made me up grade my whole bike
I can help. Here's the link to the exact stem I use! smile.amazon.com/Mountain-Handlebar-Suitable-Aluminum-Adjustable/dp/B071YV77R7/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=31.8+stem&qid=1594788564&sr=8-14 Let me know if you got the link.
@@eladiobueno2422 Don't apologize at all - I love helping fellow GT owners keep their bikes up and running. I looked up the 1x IFX crankset and if it doesn't already come with the external 68/73 mm bottom bracket, you can order this one from Shimano as well: www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-XT-BB-MT800-Bottom-Bracket Inexpensive and works with the iDrive of this vintage very nicely.
Thank you so much for all the help I appreciate it just trying to get this idrive up and running so I keep up with my buddy’s , just starting mtb and I’m enjoying it
For the rear, that would not be possible because the drop out is for quick release (QR). The front would be possible contingent you installed a fork that ran a thru axle system and not QR.
@@junebrigettemagtibay2601 I actually updated my bike to Magura MT5 disc brakes and DT Swiss 420SL wheels. I'll have an updated video of it either tomorrow or Monday.
Here is the seatpost that I had on this iDrive: www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/ks-eten-30-9-dropper-seatpost-385-100mm-with-remote I did change up the bike to a 10 speed rear and changed the dropper post to a PNW Coast Suspension Dropper in a 30.9 mm with 120 mm of travel, internally routed; I bought it refurbished from cycled.pnwcomponents.com/collections/internally-routed-dropper-posts/products/coast-suspension-dropper-post?variant=31979265163311. And I have mated it to a Paul's dropper trigger. I should do a quick bike check update on it.
@@eduasemedtv6654 I should be on Facebook as "Yuri Rabena". Don't worry, if you forget, remember, I usually have a sticker on my bikes with my name on it.
Great question, let me try and get super elaborate here just because there is a lot to know here: Scenarios: XC bike race: iDrive Any mtb hill climb: iDrive Efficient bike: iDrive Handling: LTS Lighter bike: iDrive Plush feel: LTS Descending: LTS Jumps and drops: LTS Aftermarket support: LTS Servicing/Ease of maintenance: LTS Will eventually develop a crack in frame: Both I think if you are in a situation where you wanted to do some amateur hour cross country mountain bike racing or just want an efficient retro bike, the first iteration iDrive is by far better because it is lighter and generally efficient climbing and just a very conservative handling bike. The classic GT LTS is honestly like a really fun, sporty feel bike that really is just a enjoyable trail bike that you can really play around with on jumps, drops and as a whole. Maintenance and servicing: Both are terrible as they require very non-off the shelf parts such as eccentric bottom brackets or even pivot parts. Love the bikes but at this point, parts are so hard to source that once they're worn out to a point it's not fun to ride them anymore, I'm going to sell them off to anyone who needs retro GT bike frame hardware.
I think you could test the water out at $350 and see if anybody makes an inquiry because you also have to factor in low balling. If you're willing to ship, you could mention you're going to sell your bike on a GT Facebook forum such as "GT Mountain Bike Owners" and see what people offer. Even for my own bike, I still have to remind myself the bike is worth as much as the market is willing to spend. So, price how you like and adjust if need be. Also, clean it up and take very good photos.
Thanks - Speaking of brakes, actually am in the process of updating this bike once again with Magura MT5 disc brakes plus a Magura Vyron wireless seatpost! I'll do an update video in the summer as I'm trying to find a real reliable Marzocchi Bomber fork for it.
Sweet! I still have my 2000 XCR3000 and I'm in the middle of building a 1999 XCR4000 for my daughter. These bikes are so amazing, even still today.
Indeed. I saw the video you have on yours. Really fun bike - I just changed it up and I'll put up a new vid once I sort out the new dropper.
@@yuri_on_youtube sweet. I've been looking for an inexpensive dropper but I can only go 80mm at best.
@@MissingLinkMTB 80 mm, I can empathize the search for one. I have some bikes with droppers where they are longer than my leg can extend on the pedals, so I always have to do the standing position where myself for the "estimated high post height", press the lever and let it stop where it's good. I do a lot more freeriding and trials riding so for me, as long as that saddle can be as out of the way as possible when I need it to, it's the best I can hope for!
I love that frame configuration…. Color combo is nice too…
Thanks - I have changed out parts on it a few times now. My next plan is to hopefully have a rebuilt Manitou Minute fork on it soon.
My GT looks very similar to the one in this vid. GT Coupe duMond I drive team Race Edition KU1K0825. I hope you can help because I'm having a helluva time finding information. Q: Are Alivio Shimano rear derailleurs compatible? Doesn't seem to fit right. I am a novice mechanic take into mind but the derailleur slightly impedes putting on the rear wheel. Grip shifters came on it and a rear Vbrake and ESP derailleur. Overwhelmed here with the complex details and compatibility issues. Thanks for your time.
Hi Seamus,
The ESP derailleur is likely on there because it is compatible with Sram's grip shift system and using a Shimano Alivio shifter may not be compatible.
There could be a number of reasons it may not fit right and because I haven't seen your bike in person, it's hard to say.
But at least see if the rear derailleur hanger is aligned, it isn't bent.
And then find a UA-cam or source video where you can see how a rear derailleur is installed and how to tune it, such as something like this:
ua-cam.com/video/IN4-jFRD8-Q/v-deo.html
But generally, Grip Shift and Shimano have changed so much over the years that really, regarding compatibility, the best thing to do is ask your bike shop and normally the answer is free. Also, it may not hurt to save some money and find a bike shop that allows you to sit somewhere and just watch how the things that need to be done on your bike are performed and use that as a learning opportunity. There are lots of mechanics who can give you pretty good advice.
Hi, Yuri, hope you don’t mind me asking you a question. I have a 2004 I drive comp. I’m swapping out the triple set up to a 1x9 and need to remove the cranks. On Turing the pedals there is a sticking spot and I’m thinking of changing the bb. Is removing the bb the same process to that on other bikes without the I drive system? Thanks in advance.
Hi Tony,
Removing the BB on these iDrive bikes is no different than any other bike. I know it may seem that the eccentric bb shell might make you think something else is required or will be affected but it is attached to the frame independent of the bb itself.
That’s great news, thanks for your reply!
Hi Yuri, hopefully you can help me. Ongoing upgrades to my GT i drive…I’d like to upgrade my rear fox vanilla coil shock 600 x 1.63 to a fox float equivalent. What does these measurements stand for? Is 1.63 the distance from eye to eye? What does the 600 mean and what size should I look for as I can only see models at 165. Thanks!
Love your bike! I’m looking to buy an idrive…just restored my 97 avalanche. Could you use a wolf tooth link and keep your derailleur if you upgrade your cassette?
The Avalanches were a really good option back then, I couldn't mow enough lawns to buy one at the time though.
Regarding a Wolftooth link, I did not have to use one when I swapped the drivetrain out to a 1 x 10 (32T front, 11-42T rear cassette) combination.
Here's the bike currently:
ua-cam.com/video/6xS-RTVdl9o/v-deo.html
That bike rips... Love the color combo and I reallly like the BB set up. So unique.
The BB is so low I have to remember to 3 & 9 o'clock my feet so I don't smash my toes!
I'm still rocking my 2001 iDrive 5.0. I'm finally watching videos on it and learning how it all works. :) Always kept it indoors so it's still in pretty damn good shape! I think I bought this thing on sale for $490 plus tax in the early 2000s.
That's great to hear!
For this particular bike, you can get a nice PNW rebuilt dropper on the cheap with a one year warranty:
Seatpost diameter is 30.9, however you could get a 30.9 to 27.2 shim if you're really in a pinch. I'd recommend the external, 30.9/125 mm PNW dropper posts. I think anything above 125 mm will be too tall for this bike.
cycled.pnwcomponents.com/collections/externally-routed-dropper-posts/products/cascade-dropper-post
@@yuri_on_youtube I appreciate it. I asked before I saw the section where you covered the dropper so I removed the comment/question on it. I measured up mine and it seems to be a 31.6. I measured it many times. I just grabbed the KS eTen in 31.6. Hopefully it fits. If not, I'll return it. The V2s are all out of stock. I was thinking about that one. I may try the Cascade if nothing else works. I'm just hoping the KS eTen doesn't hit the shock but judging from yours, it shouldn't.
You’re kidding me, that’s like 70% off. So cheap. I used to drool over these in the magazines back when I was a kid. Seemed like an awesome cross country blend
Nice build, i miss my idrive got a stumpjumper at the moment 😓 Team and race models had 3.5" travel at the back, the standard idrives had 4.3. You can pick these bikes up cheap now (and many in mint condition having had little use) and they are fantastic to ride. Oh and those are IS disc mounts not flat mounts.
You are correct - This is what happens when I do these vids unscripted.
Ha, great kid though. 😁
Another good V-Brake set, is Saccon.
I actually ended up changing this bike over to Magura disc brakes!
Yuri I cant find the 3 screws that go on the I Drive with washer. any help on this friend, i would appreciate it. oh and also put a smaller crank set. I need help with the chain derail by the seat post. I have a XC 4000 GT.
Here, download this - It is the maintenance guide to the GT iDrive.
Let me know when you do as I'm going to remove the link at some point.
docs.google.com/document/d/1VI6Ey9OkTwX9v-J7x17rKpL6MiguT1yt/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=115123007597489094274&rtpof=true&sd=true
What's going on with the front derailleur?
Nice looking bike. I just saw one in CL. For 200. Thanks for the video. Looks like a great bike for the price
Thanks Thomy. I redid the bike again so I'll have to share that vid pretty soon. $200 is a nice fair price. I take it you're planning on buying one of these classic iDrives?
Hello, I'm trying to recover my old idrive 4.0 2001, but I lost the shock , and I'm asking which shock length can install, I hope you could answer, please
Greetings from Mexico :)
Hi Jorge,
The shock length that I think the iDrive 4.0 uses is a 165mm x 38mm (6.5" x 1.5") rear shock.
@@yuri_on_youtube thank you so much, greetings :)
I am also building my 2001 iDrive 2.0!! would love more info on the part numbers for the crankset you used (what BB did you use??) and the dropper post. Thank you.
It has undergone some major changes since the video!
1. PNW 30.9 mm x 120 mm internally routed dropper post from:
cycled.pnwcomponents.com/
Mated to a Paul's Dropper Trigger in anodized blue:
www.paulcomp.com/shop/components/mounting-solutions/dropper-trigger/
2. 1 x 10 set up. Had to replaced the XTR brake lever/shifter pods, so it runs a Shimano 10 speed Zee shifter with Avid Speed Dial 7 levers and a Shimano Deore 10 speed long cage rear derailleur, Sunrace 11-42T and Wolftooth Goat Link.
For BB, I am using a Shimano XT-BB-MT800 that is compatible with both 68 and 73 mm wide English threaded BB shells.
Crankset, RaceFace discontinued this model crankset and it's nothing to write home about. On eBay, search for "10 speed Shimano crankset" and that'll give you lots of options. The other trick is to find a 9 speed Alivio 104 BCD that's available for $50 and 1x it with a RaceFace narrow wide chainring in a 104 BCD unless you want to run 9 speeds with a double chainring which is fine too.
I have a chance to get an I Drive 3.0. Great condition. Are these worth it? Hear the frame cracks easy.
I'm actually here looking at it now. Would you recommend it at$280 plus the cost of tune up?
It's a really good question and yes, I personally can tell you that I've had a few iDrives crack under me but this is the type of riding I regularly do:
ua-cam.com/video/lzBIAW0_t5c/v-deo.html
I think if you're an XC rider and you normally don't ride in muddy condition, don't hit >2 foot drops or jumps every ride, it'll probably last you long enough to replace if/when it does finally develop stress fractures.
Personally, I wouldn't spend more than $300 (USD). If you want an iDrive without breaking the bank, I'd look at finding the 2010 - 2014 GT Sensor because they're easier to maintain, easier to find parts and unless you neglect maintenance, the frame is more durable than the first generation of iDrives.
Do you know the torque spec for swing arm pivot bolt. Thank you
I can do one better!
I converted a GT iDrive service poster into a Word doc and it'll give you all the thorough service info you need to service these first gen iDrives! Let me know that you can actually access it by replying on here.
docs.google.com/document/d/1VI6Ey9OkTwX9v-J7x17rKpL6MiguT1yt/edit?usp=drive_link&ouid=115123007597489094274&rtpof=true&sd=true
@@yuri_on_youtube thank you. Got it.
Do you know by any chance the size of the rear shock bolts? Like 6x35 or something like that?
I just took some digitals to these: Main front triangle top shock bolt is M5 x 50 mm. Bottom swingarm is an M5 x 40 mm.
@@yuri_on_youtube Thanks so much. I'm getting conflicting numbers from everybody but in the same ballpark. My two choices are yours or m6x30 & m6x45 so I'll have to wait until I can figure it out myself. I was gonna order it in advance because I don't have the frame nor the shock with me right now.
@@DescubriendoLaFlorida I stand corrected and I should have realized - I actually have the schematic and service guides!
See attached from my Google Drive - They are M6s.
drive.google.com/file/d/1PvCaHG0MiLbawjd8cByjAtfIHj-fiSI9/view?usp=sharing
@@yuri_on_youtube Awesome! I'm gonna save me a copy of that. Thanks again!
@@DescubriendoLaFlorida I salvaged this old document - It's how to service the GT iDrives of that iteration. Save this as well.
docs.google.com/document/d/1VI6Ey9OkTwX9v-J7x17rKpL6MiguT1yt/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=115123007597489094274&rtpof=true&sd=true
Need a new rear shock, have a Manitou q and it doesn't hold air any more. Any suggestions?
You have some off the shelf options. Search for a 6.5" x 1.5" rear shock. Fox will give you the best value in my opinion, such as this one: www.probikesupply.com/products/2020-fox-float-dps-3pos-ano-performance-shock-optional-mounting-hardware?variant=19469240598595¤cy=USD&gclid=CjwKCAjwh7H7BRBBEiwAPXjadu82zxEuylvxLTMvXL8ch_8Z5HhzG-cHrwkKiiZASOBerW3yTgycLhoCOA8QAvD_BwE
Another option is having your rear shock rebuilt or buy a new rear shock from Risse Racing:
www.risseracing.com/gt.shtml
Can show how u remove e bottom bracket? My xcr 4000 have some creaking sound and i not sure where it is coming from and want to check. Thanks
These first iteration eccentric bottom brackets can be a bear to work on.
With the help of another GT first iteration iDrive owner who has the actual GT iDrive service poster that I put into a Word document, here's how to service these iDrives:
drive.google.com/file/d/1VI6Ey9OkTwX9v-J7x17rKpL6MiguT1yt/view?usp=sharing
@@yuri_on_youtube Wow! Thanks for e document. Might not be possible to get replacement part for this idrive. Thanks for your help.
@@seankoh2095 Depends on where you live (shipping) and what part you are looking for. I have used this company for many retro GT parts. www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/product-category/gt-parts/
I also buy up GT RTS, LTS and first generation iDrive frames that are broken/very inexpensive, take apart the entire frame and sell the parts to other GT vintage full suspension owners so they have parts. So, just reach out to me with that you're looking for because even if I don't have it, I may be able to point you in the right direction.
@@yuri_on_youtube Thanks for your help! I see if i need any parts when i take apart my bike. Stay safe!
GT idrive, during the days, "only" rich kids ride idrive's. The son of a Mayor in my place who sometimes rode with us, he has an idrive
with custom color, when sunlight hits the brown frame it gradually changes to like purple-ish then back to brownish.
but the specs is almost thesame as you idrive and i like the race color of your idrive, i believe there is a jersy matching your bike.
There is and back then I could fit it...not the case anymore with that jersey but the latest one I have is great.
I have a question maybe you can help I have a 2001 gt idrive 6.0 trying to get a new stem would you know measurements on that if not thanks anyways video made me up grade my whole bike
I can help.
Here's the link to the exact stem I use!
smile.amazon.com/Mountain-Handlebar-Suitable-Aluminum-Adjustable/dp/B071YV77R7/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=31.8+stem&qid=1594788564&sr=8-14
Let me know if you got the link.
Sorry but would you know what size BB does it use I just purchased the 1x ifx crank set hopefully it fits
@@eladiobueno2422 Don't apologize at all - I love helping fellow GT owners keep their bikes up and running. I looked up the 1x IFX crankset and if it doesn't already come with the external 68/73 mm bottom bracket, you can order this one from Shimano as well:
www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-XT-BB-MT800-Bottom-Bracket
Inexpensive and works with the iDrive of this vintage very nicely.
Thank you so much for all the help I appreciate it just trying to get this idrive up and running so I keep up with my buddy’s , just starting mtb and I’m enjoying it
@@eladiobueno2422 No worries. I might be starting a "mountain bike" education series on knowing the parts of a bike, things like that.
iDrive Alive !!!!
I do plan on doing a shred-it-edit at Tapeworm with this bike! It is rowdy!
Hello , can we use thru axle hubs for our bike? I have same bike.
For the rear, that would not be possible because the drop out is for quick release (QR). The front would be possible contingent you installed a fork that ran a thru axle system and not QR.
@@yuri_on_youtube thank you for this info. Any hubs you can suggest for our bike? Im planning to upgrade to 1x10.
@@junebrigettemagtibay2601 I actually updated my bike to Magura MT5 disc brakes and DT Swiss 420SL wheels. I'll have an updated video of it either tomorrow or Monday.
Did you change your old seatpost?
I have a question? What is the size of your seatpost?thankyou
Here is the seatpost that I had on this iDrive:
www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/ks-eten-30-9-dropper-seatpost-385-100mm-with-remote
I did change up the bike to a 10 speed rear and changed the dropper post to a PNW Coast Suspension Dropper in a 30.9 mm with 120 mm of travel, internally routed; I bought it refurbished from cycled.pnwcomponents.com/collections/internally-routed-dropper-posts/products/coast-suspension-dropper-post?variant=31979265163311.
And I have mated it to a Paul's dropper trigger.
I should do a quick bike check update on it.
Yuri On UA-cam how you doin mate? Im wondered what is size your rear shock?. Thankyou again
@@eduasemedtv6654 This particular iDrive rear shock is:
6.5" eye to eye
1.5" stroke
Yuri On UA-cam hello mate,what you fb Acount please
@@eduasemedtv6654 I should be on Facebook as "Yuri Rabena". Don't worry, if you forget, remember, I usually have a sticker on my bikes with my name on it.
I drive or LTS which is better?
Great question, let me try and get super elaborate here just because there is a lot to know here:
Scenarios:
XC bike race: iDrive
Any mtb hill climb: iDrive
Efficient bike: iDrive
Handling: LTS
Lighter bike: iDrive
Plush feel: LTS
Descending: LTS
Jumps and drops: LTS
Aftermarket support: LTS
Servicing/Ease of maintenance: LTS
Will eventually develop a crack in frame: Both
I think if you are in a situation where you wanted to do some amateur hour cross country mountain bike racing or just want an efficient retro bike, the first iteration iDrive is by far better because it is lighter and generally efficient climbing and just a very conservative handling bike.
The classic GT LTS is honestly like a really fun, sporty feel bike that really is just a enjoyable trail bike that you can really play around with on jumps, drops and as a whole.
Maintenance and servicing: Both are terrible as they require very non-off the shelf parts such as eccentric bottom brackets or even pivot parts.
Love the bikes but at this point, parts are so hard to source that once they're worn out to a point it's not fun to ride them anymore, I'm going to sell them off to anyone who needs retro GT bike frame hardware.
@@yuri_on_youtube I saw videos of LTS compared to modern other full sus bikes, I think they should make a video of LTS vs I-drive.
How much these bikes worth ? I have xcr2000 that I want to sell
I think you could test the water out at $350 and see if anybody makes an inquiry because you also have to factor in low balling.
If you're willing to ship, you could mention you're going to sell your bike on a GT Facebook forum such as "GT Mountain Bike Owners" and see what people offer.
Even for my own bike, I still have to remind myself the bike is worth as much as the market is willing to spend. So, price how you like and adjust if need be. Also, clean it up and take very good photos.
Nice bike, try magura hydro v-brakes
Thanks - Speaking of brakes, actually am in the process of updating this bike once again with Magura MT5 disc brakes plus a Magura Vyron wireless seatpost!
I'll do an update video in the summer as I'm trying to find a real reliable Marzocchi Bomber fork for it.
Sele puede poner monoplato
Need help dude! Cant find my serial number😂
Skip to 12:31 of the video. If it is not in that area, you would have to look around around the chainstays close to the rear wheel dropouts.