Enjoyed the video, especially limiting your diagnostic toolkit to a decent multimeter. My teachers, in the school and in the field, always told me it was the most important tool. The ex-Army tech told me it was often his only tool (the Army didn’t allow them to use Ohmmeters).
Another walkthrough and outstanding video, thank you for your time you put on these videos Tony. It really helps a lot. I enjoy watching it very well explain old school job, awaiting for part 2
Enjoyed this minimalist challenge video! Makes me appreciate that test apparatus between your ears! )) All American Five radios are about my limit so really appreciate seeing you work! And thank you for the well wishes at the end of your videos.
Thanks for taking the time to upload these videos Tony! I do tend to watch any long videos in segments, later returning approximately to the point where I left off. I'm fairly literate in Physics and Electrical/Electronic Engineering, and although we can't always trust the schematic, it is my basic 'first call' when thinking through a not-so-obvious approach to a fix.
This is how I started before buying more equipment😂 A DIM-bulp and a dead cheap multimeter... Damm when things didn't work it could feel like days to pinpoint the fault, but it workd👌 Good video
yes tony I do like this format very much 1 broken device multi part video's the way you explain things you are doing and that I enjoy this very very much thank you
Hi Tony greetings from Italy, good to see you back. I was worried about you after your last video, save some peace joy and happiness for yourself. I look forward to your videos and i am learning a lot, although quite how a box of components can reproduce sound so accurately, remains magic to me. I have taken on a few projects myself, mostly successful although i am struggling with an ITT Schaub Lorenz International Touring 103 but I'll keep at it. The best parts for me are when you identify parts of a circuit that you particularly like or dislike and explain why, clearly you have a great depth of knowledge so thanks for sharing. It would be good to see you work on some British equipment.
BR-549 One of my favorites of these sketches was: "We'll throw in a television when you buy a car." Junior " You shouldn't be watching TV while you're driving." Oh the innocence of the times.
Fantastic troubleshooting tutorial, thanks Tony. If I may have a small request for next episode I'd love to hear your explanation on how the biasing circuit operates on this amp. I've noticed on the service manual that the circuitry for biasing is drawn bit differently to what I got used to see on other amps' schematics. Thanks in advance
I have been enjoying watching your videos and have learned so much. As a novice, it would be extremely helpful if before taking measurements, you would refer to the schematic so that those of us less experienced can get our bearings and follow what you are doing while you are taking actual measurements.
"Good luck with ya little pencil iron...let me know how that goes for ya " Lol ! nice use of quality Sarcasm and as a Brit I can spot the top shelf stuff...cheers!
Thank you for doing this! Way less than ideal of an approach but the basics are very important, fundamental I should say. If you have the basics under the belt, the rest is super easy.
Just for reference the power amp board chassis layout appears to be the same as the 2238b (with higher rail voltage). The 2238b I worked on used plugin connectors which made it a lot easer to work on.
24:06 aren't both probes on the same connection? Plus the stinger is kind of another tool. I do enjoy your teaching style. I've picked up quite a bit of technique.
Hi Tony. Love your videos. Learning a lot from you so thank you! Ok now for the question. Just started this hobby and the first receiver I decided to dig into is my Marantz 2252. It was working but needed cleaned bad. Pots, boards etc. Also going to recap. Now I saw in your video that you talked about the orange caps are different. (filter , dolby board) There are 8 ELNA caps. 2 are gray. I know some have different specs but is there a reason why 2 are gray. I dont want to mess up this board by putting in just any caps with the same specs unless it will not matter. Also noticed in some of the other boards they have these orange caps as well. Thank you for your help!! Take care and keep the videos coming PLEASE!
The silver face dial Marantz after 1977 are all a pain to work on, at least up to the 2252B. The horizontal filters and the barely accessible screws and the all-in-one amp/power board are just the beginning.
If you did use other equipment to find the shorted transistor, what would that be? Seems to me a dvom would be the best way to trace the voltage back to it's source.
I just watched the 2500 rebuild video. You were very good and knowledgable I"ve got a 2600 that needs work. I was wondering if you do this for a living and would be interested in going through it. Im in Pendleton Oregon.
Tony I like your video's better being not edited more fun I got to laugh at times plus it shows every one can make mistakes and about the grammar pfff LOL as long we know what you are trying to say it is all good make's it way more enjoyable to watch so keep on doing what you are doing thanks
it is nice to have an NTE book but you can search NTE on line and get the data sheet PDF as well. I like the "rules" applied very helpful in understanding what to look for when trouble shooting
There is great way to remove that corrosive glue. Use cotton swabs with nitro thinner for paint. Just soak glue with thinner and then use some plastic tool, like ones that cell phone repair guys use. Friend of mine that was working on Sansui stuff for he's entire life and was removing notorious "Sansui glue" from every bit of PCB's used nitro thinner and worked like a charm for him. Yes i know it smells bad but it doesn't remove silk screen or solder mask or anything and you won't damage PCB like in case you are scraping glue with some sharp object. After glue is removed just use some IPA to clean PCB.
What about the missing component, was it called out in the schematic or present in the other channel? Maybe it’s that ‘lytic soldered to the underside of the board. I never liked the “B” series of Marantz 22xx receivers either, instead of a nice symmetrical build they have everything jammed over to one side.
Those "zip tie label tags" are great for instances when you have to repeatedly remove and reconnect leads, but in this instance some paper or masking tape is MUCH cheaper, less effort, and can be quickly removed. They do make numbered label tags with adhesive backing that may work, if your connection points are marked with concurrent numbers. but plain old tape and pen is quick and cheap.
Hey Tony, any idea what the complement is for the KSC2383? Unfortunately its not listed on the datasheet. The original compliment to the 2SC1885 is the 2SA912, both unobtainium through known legit sources. I've used the BD139/140 pair (great for heat dissipation) but at higher frequencies (12k and up) the positive side of the wave tends to shark tooth on me far too soon in the power band. Switching frequency isn't listed on the datasheet for the BD's and the PNP is looking to be inadequate for its task. Anyway, please share if you know the compliment. Thanks...
For smoke smell you can buy little battery powered ionizers online. Put one of those in a plastic bin with the smelly thing and let it go for a few days and it works wonders on that stench.
You could remove by using a heat gun like a surface mount and on the new transistor after you have cut it to its length on the pins just on the tips some solder paste, and reheat it. Your need to cover the component with some copper tape or heat shield so they don't melt their shoulder. You might want to add some pine resin as well what you can make and put it in the syringe just clean resin from the bark of the tree, mix about it with about 5% isopropylene deleted leave it's about 12 hours closed container and then slightly heated if you want a paste
The 1 good thing about fixing the Marantz 1 of the best radio ever put out, I have own the Marantz 2325 going on 40 years and still sound's Great, I have turned down 800 Dollars. Not for sale
Marantz generally doesnt use the regulated supply to drive the Dial lamps or the mode lamps they use an unregulated 8V AC tap on the transformer EXCEPT for the Stereo Lamp which is driven by the MPX board from the DC regulated supply. Just a little note as a lot of rcvr's use this methodology .
Tony, I belong to a hifi forum, and the question came up about speaker thump and either soft start or speaker protect. I know you built one and installed it in a receiver, and you highlighted a brilliantly simple soft start in another more recent video. Would you be able to point me toward the videos? I'll rewatch to find the timesatmps. I just need to find which ones to watch. If you can't remember which, no problem. Thanks.
You might want to add a brake to your lazy susan. Maybe just a thumbscrew with a sharpened point that gets driven down into the bench surface when turned. Maybe one at each corner so you can easily drop two of them regardless of how the lazy susan is oriented.
You work in a lot of medical offices. Ask for some swabs. They are very resistant to pulling apart, and don't leave fuzz. Plus they are like 5 or 6 inches long
I've seen the lazy techs that snip out the bad transistor and tack a new one on top. I guess when you're on the clock you need to get creative to save time.
Love your calm, relaxed, reserved demeanor. Helps when working on complicated equipment or in teaching techniques.
Enjoyed the video, especially limiting your diagnostic toolkit to a decent multimeter. My teachers, in the school and in the field, always told me it was the most important tool. The ex-Army tech told me it was often his only tool (the Army didn’t allow them to use Ohmmeters).
back to the roots tony is really awesome what you can accomplish with just a multimeter and schematics sometimes.nice work😅
Nice job Tony… Can’t wait for the next video, definitely a pain in the neck working on this unit.
Another walkthrough and outstanding video, thank you for your time you put on these videos Tony. It really helps a lot. I enjoy watching it very well explain old school job, awaiting for part 2
Excellent video. Finally someone actually goes through the process and gives a reason why they are doing each step. So helpful.
Love all the quips, puns, jabs, and knowledge you partake part in giving us
Enjoyed this minimalist challenge video! Makes me appreciate that test apparatus between your ears! )) All American Five radios are about my limit so really appreciate seeing you work! And thank you for the well wishes at the end of your videos.
This is one of your best Tony, thank you! Great insight into troubleshooting when you have limited test equipment.
Yes, for someone starting out with amplifiers , this is gold.
Tony I always learn something from you !...thank you.
Thanks for taking the time to upload these videos Tony! I do tend to watch any long videos in segments, later returning approximately to the point where I left off. I'm fairly literate in Physics and Electrical/Electronic Engineering, and although we can't always trust the schematic, it is my basic 'first call' when thinking through a not-so-obvious approach to a fix.
Well done Tony. It was certainly no Fluke how you found that one.....🤓👍👍👍
Love the video. keeping it real simple, and showing methodical fault finding techniques to top it off. Awesome video.
This is how I started before buying more equipment😂 A DIM-bulp and a dead cheap multimeter... Damm when things didn't work it could feel like days to pinpoint the fault, but it workd👌 Good video
yes tony I do like this format very much 1 broken device multi part video's the way you explain things you are doing and that I enjoy this very very much thank you
Hi Tony greetings from Italy, good to see you back. I was worried about you after your last video, save some peace joy and happiness for yourself.
I look forward to your videos and i am learning a lot, although quite how a box of components can reproduce sound so accurately, remains magic to me. I have taken on a few projects myself, mostly successful although i am struggling with an ITT Schaub Lorenz International Touring 103 but I'll keep at it. The best parts for me are when you identify parts of a circuit that you particularly like or dislike and explain why, clearly you have a great depth of knowledge so thanks for sharing. It would be good to see you work on some British equipment.
Very good! hope you know how much I (and others of course) love these vintage audio repairs !
BR-549
One of my favorites of these sketches was:
"We'll throw in a television when you buy a car."
Junior " You shouldn't be watching TV while you're driving."
Oh the innocence of the times.
I can only hear Mr. Magoo in Jim Backus' voice.
Cartoons, a big part of GenX's lives.
Just a wonderful video. Thank you so much for doing this. I have a 2252b that I plan to recap. Your information is invaluable.
Great vids Tony…your skills are off the charts. I really enjoy your vids…thanks
Fantastic troubleshooting tutorial, thanks Tony. If I may have a small request for next episode I'd love to hear your explanation on how the biasing circuit operates on this amp. I've noticed on the service manual that the circuitry for biasing is drawn bit differently to what I got used to see on other amps' schematics. Thanks in advance
Thanks for my favorite video to date on your channel. Great for the novice I am.
Dad joke of the year, "Amp-utated"!
Excellent video. This really cleared something’s up. I have a 2225B to work on.
I have been enjoying watching your videos and have learned so much. As a novice, it would be extremely helpful if before taking measurements, you would refer to the schematic so that those of us less experienced can get our bearings and follow what you are doing while you are taking actual measurements.
You should really like part two, then ;)
Come for the troubleshooting and tips, stay for the dad jokes. Super helpful for this noob, thanks, Tony!
You have indeed e nice sende of humour:-) your topics and presentation are super inspiring to me. Regards from Germany
"Good luck with ya little pencil iron...let me know how that goes for ya " Lol ! nice use of quality Sarcasm and as a Brit I can spot the top shelf stuff...cheers!
Thank you for doing this! Way less than ideal of an approach but the basics are very important, fundamental I should say. If you have the basics under the belt, the rest is super easy.
Amazing video.Hello from Brazil.🇧🇷 Thanks for give us more knowledge.
Just for reference the power amp board chassis layout appears to be the same as the 2238b (with higher rail voltage). The 2238b I worked on used plugin connectors which made it a lot easer to work on.
24:06 aren't both probes on the same connection? Plus the stinger is kind of another tool.
I do enjoy your teaching style. I've picked up quite a bit of technique.
My 1st Vintage amp 2252 blew the doors off my $550 JVC RX307 1990s 😆 Thanks for the video
Hi Tony. Love your videos. Learning a lot from you so thank you! Ok now for the question. Just started this hobby and the first receiver I decided to dig into is my Marantz 2252. It was working but needed cleaned bad. Pots, boards etc. Also going to recap. Now I saw in your video that you talked about the orange caps are different. (filter , dolby board) There are 8 ELNA caps. 2 are gray. I know some have different specs but is there a reason why 2 are gray. I dont want to mess up this board by putting in just any caps with the same specs unless it will not matter. Also noticed in some of the other boards they have these orange caps as well. Thank you for your help!! Take care and keep the videos coming PLEASE!
The silver face dial Marantz after 1977 are all a pain to work on, at least up to the 2252B. The horizontal filters and the barely accessible screws and the all-in-one amp/power board are just the beginning.
If you did use other equipment to find the shorted transistor, what would that be? Seems to me a dvom would be the best way to trace the voltage back to it's source.
I just watched the 2500 rebuild video. You were very good and knowledgable I"ve got a 2600 that needs work. I was wondering if you do this for a living and would be interested in going through it. Im in Pendleton Oregon.
Tony I like your video's better being not edited more fun I got to laugh at times plus it shows every one can make mistakes and about the grammar pfff LOL as long we know what you are trying to say it is all good make's it way more enjoyable to watch so keep on doing what you are doing thanks
2:23 - The Dim Bulb Tester is SAFETY equipment!
it is nice to have an NTE book but you can search NTE on line and get the data sheet PDF as well.
I like the "rules" applied very helpful in understanding what to look for when trouble shooting
There is great way to remove that corrosive glue. Use cotton swabs with nitro thinner for paint. Just soak glue with thinner and then use some plastic tool, like ones that cell phone repair guys use. Friend of mine that was working on Sansui stuff for he's entire life and was removing notorious "Sansui glue" from every bit of PCB's used nitro thinner and worked like a charm for him. Yes i know it smells bad but it doesn't remove silk screen or solder mask or anything and you won't damage PCB like in case you are scraping glue with some sharp object. After glue is removed just use some IPA to clean PCB.
Great idea at @23:30!
Thanks "Professor", enjoyed watching and learning. Keep going this way ;"if it ain`t broke, don`t fix it".
I’ve got this Receiver somewhere in my place. Too old to pick it up, abit heavy for me….willing to part with it, worked fine.
@xraytonyb Which value of resistor You used for a supply cap bleeder?
What about the missing component, was it called out in the schematic or present in the other channel? Maybe it’s that ‘lytic soldered to the underside of the board. I never liked the “B” series of Marantz 22xx receivers either, instead of a nice symmetrical build they have everything jammed over to one side.
Zip tie labels work great for keeping track of wires also.
Those "zip tie label tags" are great for instances when you have to repeatedly remove and reconnect leads, but in this instance some paper or masking tape is MUCH cheaper, less effort, and can be quickly removed. They do make numbered label tags with adhesive backing that may work, if your connection points are marked with concurrent numbers. but plain old tape and pen is quick and cheap.
Hey Tony, any idea what the complement is for the KSC2383? Unfortunately its not listed on the datasheet. The original compliment to the 2SC1885 is the 2SA912, both unobtainium through known legit sources. I've used the BD139/140 pair (great for heat dissipation) but at higher frequencies (12k and up) the positive side of the wave tends to shark tooth on me far too soon in the power band. Switching frequency isn't listed on the datasheet for the BD's and the PNP is looking to be inadequate for its task. Anyway, please share if you know the compliment. Thanks...
I would use TTA004b and TTC004b as a substitute pair.
@@xraytonyb Thanks for the tip. I'll check it out. 👍
Yes, Tony. I think these will work nicely. Thanks again!
For smoke smell you can buy little battery powered ionizers online. Put one of those in a plastic bin with the smelly thing and let it go for a few days and it works wonders on that stench.
Yes, I thought the focus on testing with the dmm was awesome, I really would love more of the same type of thing, concentrating on basic tools.
Greetings:
I use return address labels provided by various fund raising groups to write contact locations on and attach to wires as removed.
The wrist watch is enormous
Other than that
Thank you for this video
I use a JBCtools or a Metcal to do my soldering and I refuse to use a Hakko.
You could remove by using a heat gun like a surface mount and on the new transistor after you have cut it to its length on the pins just on the tips some solder paste, and reheat it. Your need to cover the component with some copper tape or heat shield so they don't melt their shoulder. You might want to add some pine resin as well what you can make and put it in the syringe just clean resin from the bark of the tree, mix about it with about 5% isopropylene deleted leave it's about 12 hours closed container and then slightly heated if you want a paste
The 1 good thing about fixing the Marantz 1 of the best radio ever put out, I have own the Marantz 2325 going on 40 years and still sound's Great, I have turned down 800 Dollars. Not for sale
$800 is way too cheap
@@danielknepper6884 I know I saw 5 years ago selling 2,200 on ebay
We had one of these receivers at home!
Great video!!
Marantz generally doesnt use the regulated supply to drive the Dial lamps or the mode lamps they use an unregulated 8V AC tap on the transformer EXCEPT for the Stereo Lamp which is driven by the MPX board from the DC regulated supply. Just a little note as a lot of rcvr's use this methodology .
Amp....utated.
Dad humor at its..... yeah.
I'm in the club too. 😂
Leaky? Dr. Louis Leakey? Well, this is an older amp...
(Told you I was part of the Dad Joke Club)
Tony,
I belong to a hifi forum, and the question came up about speaker thump and either soft start or speaker protect. I know you built one and installed it in a receiver, and you highlighted a brilliantly simple soft start in another more recent video. Would you be able to point me toward the videos? I'll rewatch to find the timesatmps. I just need to find which ones to watch. If you can't remember which, no problem. Thanks.
I found the soft start - Kenwood KA 9100, part 4 at around 21-1/2 minutes.
You might want to add a brake to your lazy susan. Maybe just a thumbscrew with a sharpened point that gets driven down into the bench surface when turned. Maybe one at each corner so you can easily drop two of them regardless of how the lazy susan is oriented.
I usually just jam a screwdriver under the corner
Can you do a NAD 3020, being the biggest selling amplifier in history and nothing sounded better, made in Taiwan,
Missing foot?? You don't need an expensive meter for that.
You work in a lot of medical offices. Ask for some swabs. They are very resistant to pulling apart, and don't leave fuzz. Plus they are like 5 or 6 inches long
I have a bunch of those too.
Smells like cigarette smoke, when someone was smoking a cigarette with their butt.
Whaaaaaaaat???? 😂
This amp has a perfect dress code: no shorts. Yes, I’m a dad, too.
I’ve used plastic soda pop bottle caps as prostheses for amplifiers whose feet have been ‘amp-putated.’
Interesting fix, thanks for the tip.
Plenty to choose from at your local home improvement store, not mentioning perfect copies of the original ones widely available online.
@@ampdoc agreed, but it is a quick fix for something out of sight.
Having worked on a few 22xx/22xxb units, I concur with your comments. They aren't a lot of fun to work on.
My you have a big watch....🤣
By not referencing ground,you are reading a capacitor charging and discharging.
I've seen the lazy techs that snip out the bad transistor and tack a new one on top. I guess when you're on the clock you need to get creative to save time.
lol and you forgot to edit out the amp-utation 😂😂
You got off on the wrong foot with that one.
33:20 bless ya! :P
Previous, seemingly sloppy work, “amplifies” the issue.
An attempt at humis!
It might assist in visibility if you werent wearing a grandfather click on your wrist😂 click?? Clock.. 🤫
I wear it so you can WATCH what I'm doing 😉
AMPutated....🤪🤣🤣🤣
BR549 - Junior Samples Auto sales! Hee Haw!
Dad joke upvote for Amp...utated. Yes, scringe worthy.
You made the mistake removing the wrong transistor while talking about using the wrong grammar... 😂
Why didn't they let Rosie O'Kelly fix it as this is the type of system she loves to fix.
It is that stupid goo that the manufacturers seem to use all the time.
Amazing video.Hello from Brazil.🇧🇷 Thanks for give us more knowledge.