Ls v8 jetski part 24 the damage and clean up
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- v8 jetski sank, then we brought it back to shore, now the real work begins. This is not click bait, thumbnail is a still frame from the video. It was a perfect day of testing modifications Ls v8 jetski, data logging and fine tuning for more power and speed! Until something went wrong. Instead of testing and tuning, will be working hard to get the salt water out of the v8 jetski. V8 engine into Yamaha waverunner fzr jetski pwc.
big thanks to Holley helping out on this build
Holley website www.holley.com/
#jetskibrothers #v8jetski #v8pwc
Josh , the rigid engine mounts caused the coupler to break . The engine needs to be able to move so the harmonics don’t build up between the drive coupler and the engine / gearbox . It’s the reason why the intermediate shaft is rubber mounted too , everything flexes under load and you need to accommodate this movement. Regards Adam Troy
This is actually a very good point.
i concur with these things
Maybe it wasn't harmonics so much as it was deflection/misalignment under full load because all things weren't flexing properly as you say.
Sounds accurate
Yes, and one solution is basically a short drive shaft setup when he builds the new power transfer setup. This will stop destructive harmonics. Even a tiny CV joint like an ATV. But automotive.
I genuinely love the logic at the end. 4.8 LS blows apart part of the ski, next thought is potentially sourcing a bigger engine. Full send boys! Love the channel.
Rock solid logic. That is the only practical next step!
I didn't realize it was an iron block. He said "possibly aluminum this time". Wait, wut?
Hell yeah. Perfect excuse to step up to a 6.0 LS!
Thanks. Still trying to find the next/bigger engine for this thing but fingers crossed. 🍻
When we get sunk outboards we fill the engine up with diesel to the top 2 - 3 times. Then do oil flush
That and marvel mystery oil..Old v8s drain the oil fill the whole motor with diesel let it sit for a day.
@@marvelousministry9434 kerosene is so hard to find here..which is probably a good thing cuz I'd buy one of those old round heaters and my wife would loose her mind
Why do you do that? Is diesel and water miscible? And is diesel/kerosene is more like oil than standard gasoline? Is it for try to escape corrosion? (French noob so just trying to understand :) )
Same with old manual transmissions out of the junkyard!
@@comedouville I believe it displaces the water and protects/lubes metal. I've heard of the same technique on a seized moter. You have to soak em a couple days.
WD-40 everything on the outside. Starter, coils, everything. Then clear with alcohol. Sorry to see this, but you have gone FULL SEND on this project since day one and it's been bad ass to watch. Best of luck with the repairs.
The Reality of it all is part of what makes these videos so Awesome !!! You wanna play you gotta pay, it is the great adventure of it all.
A failure is nothing more than a chance to learn. You got this. I think the engine will be fine. Looking forward to watching it come back to life!
We run that trimmed midwall modification on all the high powered skis and this doesnt happen at all.If your drive angle is off or you run the coupler too tight it will put too much load on the midwall and this is what will happen.As far as the pump tunnel reinforcement that is good idea the moment you either change to a aftermarket grate or increase the top speed
You guys figuring out who has the record for number of sunk hulls is the highlight of my week. Thank you.
🍻
I think I mentioned before the sinking that glassing in a Berkeley jet on the back would be one solution to handle power and lose the gearbox etc. More room for turbos beside the shaft.
I said 2 or 3 times they need a bigger pump. I don't know if they can fit a full size Berkeley in there, but it's a thought!
@@mjodr I thought about it some more and a full size pump would take up as much room as their current setup such as it is. But, it would be more durable! Might look funny hanging out the back, too.
Merc tech here, 656 is your best friend for corrosion!
Cover your electronics with it
Just found this Channel ! Great project, subscribed!
Love just hearing you 3 conversate. Lotta jet ski knowledge between you guys!
I mean plastic vs V8 was always going to be an issue. But then you have a weight vs Power to asses if you strengthen everything. You just found another way that it didn't work. Keep going, this has been an amazing build. Go get some sponsors for a rebuild. They will all jump at the chance. Love the vids!
Just getting ready to work on my ski and BAM... a new JSB video.
I am so bummed, this was a dream machine. Godspeed.
When they say You can LS swap anything, they really, really fucking mean it. Dammit bro, that is awesome
I'm doing a chain drive for my ls swap one. Gonna support shaft nose with a motor plate deal. Change sprockets for the ideal rpm to impeller speed.
I know u wouldn't want to be sitting on top of a chain wile it blows apart at thousands of revolutions per min. Make sure to encase it or fab optimal guarding.
@@inanimateuser9828 oh yeah it'll be covered. But figure if those street bikes use long ass chains at higher rpm then I'll ever see....it should do fine on this combo.
@@Monte1970SS
I would try using "silent chain" like what's used in transfer cases. Or even borg warner's version, hy-vo chain.
I doubt motorcycle chain would last very long in such a high continuous power output application, but results will tell either way.
To get within the "rated" power, you'll need 2-3 rows of 630 or ANSI #60 chain. And that's ignoring that the tables don't go to the rpms you'll be using them at.
Merch ordered. This content is just too good to be free.
GM did make an aluminum 5.3L block for use in front wheel drive applications. One of these may be the least expensive route for an aluminum engine.
Not least expensive they are rare was on the ss impala and grand prix gtp some tahoes had aluminum 5.3 too he would have a better chance finding a f body 5.7 which is aluminum and way more plentiful than a aluminum 5.3
L33 is the 5.3 aluminum high output found in tahoes and such. Pretty common actually and easier to find for a cheap price than an LS1. The all aluminum 5.3 found in the impala SS and gxp is the LS4 and has a unique bell housing pattern that makes it a pain in the a$$ for normal swaps.
The beauty of LS swaps are that they are ALL the same external dimensions. So if you could fit a 4.8 you can fit a 7.0l.
Texas speed has some 427s that you could use as well....lol
Further any ole iron block 5.3 can be punched and stroked to 383 as well. Weight difference isnt that big per say.
Hope u get it back up and running .....my brother and I love ur channel I learned a lot from you I work on my own jet ski and friends ....keep up the great work man. Looking forward to see it running. One of ur big fans
Thanks 😊👍
I’m really sorry that happened man wish u the best
Bloody shame to see it... but wanted to go alloy and bigger capacity anyway? 🤔😁 u guys will sort it and e are looking 4ward to watching ya do it! Keep it up... who else does a LS jetski?!?! 👍👍👍
Sea food, 300 and others are all ver the UA-cam sinking, nice team work , you three work together well, kool thanks BigAl California.
just discovered your channel, this is a sweet ride and it sucks that this happened! hopefully you guys get her put back together soon!
Great channel. Love how fast you make good videos.
You guys are awesome probably my favorite UA-cam channel!
Thanks 😊
Love the channel this v8 ski is sweet! I think your channel is gonna make it big if you keep doing these v8 ski videos, never seen anything like it and awesome to see you make it happen in that little garage. Keep it up you’re awesome man!
Thanks! 🍻😁
I would like to see a video talking about rpms gearbox ratio and prop rpm
Me too
You guys got this. Best of luck.
Since you fit a 4.8 iron block you can fit a 7.0L LS based block too and there will be minimal weight differences..... ;)
I really want a big 7.0 😃
The guy in the jacket like always stsring crazy at the cam
enjoy the channel boys looking forward to see what is coming down the pipeline.
Can you use heim joints threaded pipe and make some kind of structure from the gear box to the carrier Bearing then to the pump housing to deflect some of the torsion or torque threw the haul keeping things better inline? Might take a lot of stress of parts. But over all can’t wait to see it back up and ripping again.
I don't know a ton about skis, my background is mainly cars and trucks plus some equipment here and there but I definitely think heim joints would be an excellent idea if you are able to use them for the drive coupling. I use them often for custom suspension/ shifters/ steering setups, (track car prep mainly,) and they are the most precise option to have whatever part you want to be positively located. I'm guessing if you fabricate the coupling area correctly it would be much more solid if you were to use the heim's. Most come with quality spherical bearings installed and ready to go. I'm not affiliated with either vendor, but I used to buy the majority of those parts from Pegasus Racing or Coleman Racing. Huge selection of stuff that would be useful for you probably. Mcmastercarr probably sells some of them as well. Definitely going to be interested to see what you end up fabbing up for the ski. Definitely happy that you weren't on the throttle and hydro locked the engine. You really got as lucky as you could be in this type of situation, thankfully. Good luck on reviving the ski man!!!
@@psavel274 yes sir my background is in cars too and I use them all the time as well. when I saw what happen a light bulb clicked they work great.
Please don't give up!
Good luck on the rebuild
You should put a couple massive bilge pumps in there. I’ve punched a baseball size hole in my ski and my pumps where able to pump water fast enough to ride back no problem.
this hull is toast and consider using motor mounts that have some flex. tough lessons here.
We drain the oil pull the spark plugs out spin the motor over add fresh oil and start the motor and let it run. Usually 3 oil changes and 2 hours of run time and the boat is good to go
Yup, exactly what we do. On a completely drowned 2 stroke stand up (sunk overnight due to a leaking exhaust seal), we simply turned it upside down, cranking with the plugs out until no more water, and it started shortly after, took it out and burnt a full tank to dry it all out. Hasn't missed a beat since. Do add a little ethanol to to tank to soak up any water.
Fingers crossed ya beat the rust in time man! Id definitely pull apart every electrical connection and di lithium grease the hell out of them all. Help push any moisture out. Pull the injectors too and clean them up.
First off I like to say I love the channel I loved what you guys do with that thing it's pretty amazing what you guys have built. That baby sounds pretty badass man. sorry to see what happened to it happened but s*** happens. I know you guys will get it back together and it'll be better than it was. can't wait to see it back on the water. have a good one fellas
Thanks! 👍
No problem bro like I said it's pretty amazing that you guys built that thing it blows my mind how much work that it took and give you guys much props man you all are some smart guys man
The Concept is awesome 👏 y’all got this
Use a straight 6 , more of a balanced engine, less movement on the shaft
Dude, vr6!
2JZ
M50 swap the world!
Go find a ol v drive boat , !!! You know one that is wrecked or parted out , and get the Prop from it and shorten the drive shaft and make it a prop driven , you can use the whole through shaft bonnet and seal packing ( wet seal ), nice . Thanks BigAl California.
I've had automotive ecu's get wet inside and have been able to make the majority of them work again. I take them apart and expose all the circuit boards/ solder joints and whatnot and usually you can just spray it with some contact enhancement cleaner and then stick it on low heat in the oven for a little bit. I think you got lucky considering how bad it could've been. Hopefully you get it fixed in short order bro. Its definitely a really awesome project for sure! 👍👍
Take apart, then soak them in distilled water for 10mins to remove the salt
It's almost as heart breaking as watching a team of emergency doctors operate on someone to save their life, it's nerve racking and you're hoping for the best... Except one of the doctors is wearing Hunter S Thompson board shorts and has an affiliate link to sell you stuff on the side. From Jet Ski Brothers to Jet Ski Doctors!
😂🍻
That's a good pile of carnage there mate 👌,if you are going to do it, do it well,and that was well done indeed, love the channel and keep it up mate 👌
Thanks! 👍👌
you can buy a oil vacuum extractor they are great to drain oil water and fuel
the small hoses will go down dip stick holes spark plug holes and intake ports to suck out the water
Love you guys pushing the boundaries!
R and D! Keep trying. Awesome invention.
Great idea Josh I'm loving the plot twist with the v8 jetski build, this is some Quentin Tarantino shit.
Also actually interested where to buy those hand shop vac attachments, those are clutch!
Oh you can't get those anymore. You got to go to a swap meet to find them and be prepared to spend a couple hundred bucks for just the nozzle.
Thanks buddy 😁🍻
In Arnold Schwarzenegger voice “ Shut up and save the mota “ See what I did there. Mota.
Incorrect engine alignment with the bearing carrier caused this, normally these carriers last for years with no problems. Your first sign of mis-alignment would have been the damper coupler get destroyed which thats what dampens the torque but wont compensate for a misaligned engine. Engine alignment is critical, I would like to see if it smoke your jet pump as well.
I think the instantaneous torque from launching ripped the intermediate carrier bearing assembly plate from the hull and it all spun and destroyed itself. Billet plate with more contact surface area to hull and billet couplers should take care of it if pump tunnel is salvagable.
That's what I am thinking. Misalignment/deflection, stress on the parts to point failure due to load from that.
@@Bmxjoe26 I doubt it, he just never aligned it and slapped the heavy ls motor, look at the coupler its shattered and the rubber damper is in pieces on the back. We run more power on our yamaha's with turbos and race fuel and even have 2 step set up, we burn up impellers and pumps from cavitation, but the damage here is just pure ignorance.
Submerge every connector and all the electronics in fresh water along wih everything else and then dry and soak with dw40 to get the residual moisture away. Salt water and capillary effect will kill alot of electronics if let un rinsed and corrosion protected.
don't know if you've thought of this, but jay leno built a turbine jet engine motorcycle -- i believe it was a used helicopter turbine -- if you could put something in it similar, you would have an amazing ski...
I would use a CV joint between the pump and the engine on a "splined slip joint.
You guys had said that the so called "waterproof" switches made for marine use suck,,,, well you'd be correct, they are a joke.. As soon as I get any PWC home from purchase, the first thing I do in install an electric bilge pump and now only use the Honeywell MICRO SWITCH TL Series toggle switches. Trust me, these things are the best toggles I've used, and are used on heavy duty construction equipment. You get what you pay for with them and have had them underwater and not fail.
Great video. Very interesting that that part is what broke. I'm curious to know how much torque it would take to do that damage... I'm guessing a LOT.
Thanks buddy. 👍
What we are all glad that you were OK as this may have been worse. Have you considered adding back some Styrofoam like a stock JetSki would have to ensure that the boat cannot fully sink but can only get swamped? Also is there room at the back of the engine to put some kind of harmonic damper to quiet down driveline vibrations?
Oh man I didn’t realize that you’re in salt water, that sucks
Word of the day " yeah "... lol
Almost like the runnin' gear wasn't built for an LS or sumpin! That's a lot of beef! Explains why it got all exciting and "glub glubby". Hope it goes back together decent for ya.
Next time - pull the plugs, dump the oil, drain the fuel, disconnect fuel lines, fresh battery/jump-pack, ground plug caps, tap the starter. Bit by bit, the water will eject from the plug holes.
Once no more water is coming out when tapping the starter, add oil (used or whatever you got, because you'll be doing to a few times), then run the starter for 5 seconds on 10 seconds off until there is zero water coming out of the plug holes, drain the oil (it'll be wet again), add non-wet oil, add fresh fuel and connect fuel lines, install plugs in half of the cylinders - finger tight and then back them off half a turn (this will allow any water that may be trapped to push out past the threads), run starter for a few seconds, with finger ready on kill engine button. IF the engine fires, immediately kill the engine, if it doesn't fire, remove plugs and install clean plugs in the opposite cylinders to previous plugs, repeat above starter attempt. If the engine fires IN ANY WAY (one ignition cycle/puff/snuff/pop/bang or whatever), remove plugs and clean them, check the oil - if it is wet at all (it likely will be because your oil filter will be holding water), replace, install half the plugs again and repeat the above process. This time, if it fires, let it idle for 2-3 seconds and kill it. If it doesn't fire, repeat the above plug swap and attempt again.
If you get the 2-3 second idle, remove plugs - clean them - install plugs in all cylinders (loose), attempt to start the engine. If it doesn't fire, go back to the process of running plugs in half of the cylinders again. If it does fire, stop engine after 2-3 seconds. Dump the oil, change the oil filter, add oil, fire up engine for 5-10 seconds, check the oil and change if wet.
Now - run on hose for 20-30seconds. Dump the oil, change oil filter, add oil. Run on hose for a minute. Check the oil/dump if wet. repeat this part of the process until oil isn't coming out wet anymore.
I used to race jetskis and work in a shop here in Australia. I'm not sure how the LS would go with the dewatering process, but with a 4stroke jetski motor, it can sometimes feel like it's never going to fire, but you just need to keep repeating the process until it does... Obviously, if you feel like it isn't happening, you can do the sanity checks for fuel flow/spark.
Other than pulling down the engine, this is the ONLY way to save the thing from being an anchor. Nothing will get the salt water out of the bearings and other small parts, other than running the engine and letting the heat vaporise any water that can't be flushed with the repetitive oil changes.
You can go through 5-10 oil changes, so always good to keep a gas jug or two, of oil that was pulled during the last services.
Now that's a lot of damage
Don't waste your time trying to keep the electronics, they may work for a short time, but once they have been in salt water, it's game over for the long term. Capillary action pulls water right down the interior of the wires, you will forever face wiring issues.
Open up the electronics, and soak them in distilled water. My standup had been drowned that many times salt water I have lot count, too many submarine attempts.
I spray everything, and I mean everything, with marine water displacement lube, just before I ski, and sometime after the washdown. Never an issue.
You guys gave me a "dumb" idea. Inflatable airbags with Co2 cartridges, you could inflate like a life vest for jetskis. Does any body make anything like that? You could design em one on each side and one in front. Rig em all up to an emergency pull cord, so they all inflate at once. Deflated in a tube that fits like trim.
Ummm.....You need to pull the plugs quickly, fill the cylinders with diesel and and spin the engine to blow it dry inside..... Put five quarts of diesel in the crankcase and spin it a few more times to fill the oiling system, then fill the entire engine with diesel to the top......valley, intake ports, exhaust ports and cylinders and let it soak for a week..... Even then, only a slight chance it won't need complete teardown.... salt is brutal on aluminum!
salt is brutal on aluminum after only a few hours in water and engine was not running??? I agree with the diesel part, but everything else???
@@alexnutcasio936 100%, you'd be surprised how well water seeps its way into things. Diesel works wonders, even flush it a time or two in between and repeat the soaking process.
Harmonic resents is very bad on 4 stroke engines. Not like a two stroke . If you don’t design something that can help take it out , your drive system will do it again. The reason I think this is what happened is I build powered parachutes with 4 stroke engines and we spin a really big prop like an airboat. I have been through this same thing . If you could build a system that is like what is on an airboat it might work better for you. We use a wide V belts on our gear redrive and it will help take out the pulses. I hope this helps. Cheers and good luck. I really like watching your stuff. Keep up the great work.
A 90deg v8 is enherently unbalanced, amd the LS relys on the mass of the torque converter and transmission to minimise vibrations.
An i6 engine, eg, 2jz, rb, or barra, are enherently balanced and much better suited for this application.
This v8 needs a heavy cluch flywheel to tame the vibrations.
"race against time to get the salt water out!" proceeds to stand around wondering about this and that and not pulling the plugs out and cranking it over to get the water out
PS I understand this is an old video etc, but step one is pull plugs and crank it, it'll shoot all the water out right away.
when you're talking voltages like 12v and 5v (usb) the resistance of water is high enough to not cause any problems being submerged. The main problem is corrosion and things like paper based PCBs dissolving.
Get you a floatation device and 50ft of rope and hook to the tow hook so at least you can recover it god for bid it happens again. And a hug bilge pump.
forget the gear box use a berkly jet drive forward reverse and a place deverter that will give you more speed less parts and wicked rooster tails
simply pickling the engine is more than enough to save it, the place you will be having trouble is every single last wire and connector on the boat and most components that have a wire sticking out of it.
Titanic reborn! The damage was greater than I expected. Was it the coupler that failed first causing the imbalance, or the fittings to the tunnel?
Unsure of what broke first. But we will rebuild it stronger 👍
You got this, sharing
Do the oil change again with some seafoam. That'll help clean everything bad out and only good for a short period of run time, then drain and go with your oil change with some lucas oil stabilizer. It'll help more than ever hurt it. Many vehicles I've used that have surpassed 220k with perfect oil pressure and running like new with the ls motors.
I love this content. May you be blessed with 50k subs by Xmas and may you see 100k at 4th of July.
Cheers from Wilmington De.
But our playground is the bay by the C and D canal.
Rock on brother.
Thanks! Appreciate that 🍻🤘
Keep up the good work
You guys need a berkeley pump 12 JG or 12 JGR
Damn the carnage! Be careful if you end up going with an aluminum. I know you’re a smart dude but those things are notorious for warping heads if they overheat. Anyways….keep up the awesome work! 🙌🏻
Are you saying an aluminum block/aluminum head LS warps easy? Because we blew an LS3 head gasket hour 1 in a boat. The temp gauge never got over 140, though.
@@mjodr I wasn’t speaking about an LS specifically ; just a general mentioning about a weak point of an aluminum engine. There are many great reasons to get them on the other hand. I was just getting in the convo 👍🏼
For the next ski I would actually get some alluminium sheet just to protect the hull from any stray parts
Kevlar layer instead? I'm picturing turbofan explosion tests from GE...
You may want to have some 1/4 plate steel on the bottom of your seat. That way is something grenades it wont go through you.
Never seen that sort of damage like do think it was caused by shaft alignment I am curious 🤔 anyway good luck with your rebuild all the best
Ditch the jet and do a Arneson style surface drive! Because just an LS isnt sketchy enough...
I wish I still had my 96 t100
best of luck.
🤔 might need to change the billet cup to a uni join as it might of put to much force on the cup and buckled it out to a side to snap the bracket
What a kick in the balls. The salt water is gonna turn all the pins for every electrical connector a nice shade of green too. That sucks bro.
Good luck
Can you not run a wrap flex lovejoy coupling that is desgined to break before anything else does? That way you aren't left with this kind of carnage. Still slick what you've done though.
We feel sorry for you, it was going so nice.
You guys should have inflatable boowies or something to attach to the jetski to prevent it from sinking like that when stuff like this happens .
Something you could blow up and attach to the ski in the back end and around the weight of the motor ?
Security idea ?
Kinda to late ⏰ for this idea now but maybe for next time ,
JetSki Brothers, I'd worry more about what DMF351 says, than why your ski sank and save the LS's life by getting that puppy running again, right?!!
You guys need to get that running fast as u can and change oil few times or bearings will be shot. No other way to do this
just sank my 2008 rxp last week towing it on the jersey shore and it still runs, just had to change the oil a couple times.
Did you reinforce the driveline before dropping that engine in?
Immediately re sink it in fresh water, then disassemble. :)
Get some pb blaster and marvel mystery oil and it will b fine
I think gearbox vibration caused things to break. Am I wrong?
Support
Dayyyyummmmm that sux!!!
Find some way when you redo it bring back it's up to the motor and mount are multiple places on both sides of the hole in the fiberglass or both