I've lived in my current home for 35 years. It's was neglected when I purchased chased it. At the beginning of year 2 I started on doors and windows. I scraped or torched off all of the latex paint. I then gave the frames 2 coats of boiled Linseed oil. The third coat was a "primer" of 1 part oil paint and 3 parts Linseed oil. The final coats were oil paint and two coatings of it. It took 3 years to make it all the way around the house. NOW over 30 years later the paint is starting to deteriorate. Now in my mid 70's I get to start over again.....but it will be worth it because I won't have to do it again.
@tomprivate3362 that is incredible. How is it starting to deteriorate? I have yet to meet someone who says their linseed oil paint has deteriorated. Presumably because almost everyone I know has only started using it 0 - 25 years ago.
Once it starts to go matte, just give it a wipe with some boiled linseed oil to nourish the paint (and put back what the UV light has broken down) and you won't even need to repaint!
@@BrounsCo I’ve heard that before, except raw linseed oil instead of boiled linseed oil. Is there a reason why you proscribe boiled linseed oil instead of raw?
These days, people expect paint to always look like it was painted yesterday, like the plastic paints we see everywhere. Linseed oil paint gracefully fades by countless tiny hairline fractures, giving it a matte appearance over time. But that's when it starts to "breathe", which is why the wood lasts so long. I also think that's when the paint becomes beautiful, almost more dignified in a way. I don't think shiny plastic houses are beautiful. Actually, to begin with, linseed oil paint is as impermeable as modern paints. It's the weathering and the tiny cracks that make it gradually more permeable over time. So I'd actually wait quite a bit before I freshen it up with linseed oil or repaint it. And I'd be careful not to apply too much over the years. It's possible to make it as impermeable as modern plastic paints if you add too much, initially or over time. It must be applied thinly and in not too many layers for the "breathing" quality to remain. According to a master painter here in Norway, if the job was done by someone who knows what they're doing, it can last 30 years before it needs repainting.
I used linseed paint on the exterior of my home and swear by it. Its never let me down. It's been on the house in the deep south with 100 plus temps & high humidity no issues at all for almost a decade.
I’m glad that someone is getting the word out about linseed oil paints. I think that these sort of paints for historic buildings in particular will continue to make a comeback. I also think that your guest is absolutely correct that finishing in linseed oil paints will result in much more durable and long, lasting wooden details and finishes.
Dad was a big fan of linseed oil as a primer and wood conditioner. The secret is you needed direct sun and 70+F temps for it to dry cure. In the shade, it takes weeks to cure. Raw wood drinks linseed oil. Painted wood is refreshed if it is able to polymerize and will take any good paint. Great results if you can afford the cure time.
Using a good application brush and finishing brush will help putting on coats nice and thin. If the paint gets applied too thickly, it can indeed take long to cure.
Here in Scandinavia we're told not to paint with linseed oil paint in direct sunlight, because it dries too quickly. Yes, it dries slower than modern paints, so the whole job takes longer, especially indoors. But that's how it should be, if you ask me, you shouldn't rush a paint job. Besides, I love painting with linseed oil paint, it's almost like meditation. And the smell… I just love linseed oil paint. One tip though: Linseed oil paint needs fresh air to dry. If painting indoors, make sure there's good ventilation or it _will_ take weeks.
I painted new cedar siding with Linseed paint two and a half years ago and it's doing great. It was a learning curve with longer dry times etc, but no hint of peeling or modern style paint failure - just a more flat sheen from the original satin.
Praise be and hallelujah! As a blacksmith and amateur historian of the traditional trades, I cannot tell you how vexing it's been to get people doing things the "old way". Everyone thinks "We've always done it like this", never realizing that this stuff today is amazingly new. Linseed, Pine Tar, Ochre.... that's what made our barns red. The Pine Tar has a natural anti-microbial/fungal property that staves off rot and insects. The Linseed oil has a natural polymerization when it dries. The ochres give you color and protection against UV degradation over time. And, honestly, the finished colors just look so amazingly good! There's a warmth to the piece, and they develop a patina that no modern paints can possibly hope to compete with. Here in the smithy, all my wooden handles get an annual coating of pine tar. Not only does it keep the wood healthy, but it colors the handles beautifully. I highly recommend Linseed Oil paints. Also recommend Pine Tar paints and Milk Paints. You will be far better off if you get away from using modern petroleum-based paints.
@@KyleKavanaugh You can buy the Pine Tar Paint commercially. It's pricey, but often easier than trying to procure the ingredients separately. Adding Linseed Oil to the mix isn't entirely necessary, but a good way of stretching things out. Wooden Boat enthusiasts will often make up their own "Boat Soup" recipe when they want a protective coating on their woodwork. To thin the paint, use genuine Turpentine, also a product of the pine tree. Generally, I prefer more linseed oil in the mix than pine tar because the tar tends to be darker and can make it difficult to get a bright color from your ochre choice. Ottoson Linseed oil paint is a good brand name to look for. They have a nice selection of colors, though if you add pine tar to them you can expect the color to darken a bit. Another option is to put on the pine tar paint first as your priming layer and then add your top coats as the more decorative finish. That way the pine tar gets a chance to soak into the wood and not mix with your choice of color so much.
@@KyleKavanaugh I have not, but thanks for putting them on my radar! Looking at their website, I like how they mention that the pine tar fights against mold and fungus. I know everyone likes linseed oil, but every time I've used that stuff on wood, I've had to fight against mold and mildew growing on the wood. I never see that with pine tar. In the olden days, pine tar was used exclusively on the naval fleets of the empires and wars were literally fought over the stuff because it was so essential. Then, linseed oil was discovered or invented, and they found that they could add that to the pine tar to stretch out their reserves of the PT and get some good benefits from the mix. Most of the linseed oil paints available today talk about having Zinc Oxide in them to stave off mold and mildew growth. Using ZO also allows them to get better color choices since it doesn't darken the paints like pine tar tends to do. I'll definitely keep Sage Restoration in mind next time I'm buying!
I really enjoy this channel and the "old way" approach to every topic. It's exciting to hear this discussion, and I've only just started to dive into woodworking. My family and I live in a beautiful river town in Maine, and our house is nearing 200 years old. Such character! Certainly our modern age has produced wonderful advancements, but I love how your channel reminds us to take time and look back for inspiration. As a musician, I'm picking up on so many correlations to the music field, and, I'm sure, to just about every other field of study. Brilliant channel concept!
I started using Linseed oil paint (imported from Europe) about 10 years ago on my house exterior. He’s telling the truth about its advantages for an old wood home. Zero peeling or cracking. You do have to be mindful about mold by making sure it has a mildewcide (sp?) included.
The zinc oxide is mildewcide/fungicide. You mix it into Allbäck while Ottosson has zinc oxide pre-mixed in. Have you used something other than zinc oxide?
@@KyleKavanaugh Only the correct amount of zinc white works for this. And it needs to be milled in at source to get a full dispersion in the paint. Stirring it in will unfortunately not be sufficient.
@ It's a complete mystery. Allback used to supply in the UK through Holkham estate. They stopped doing this because the removal of zinc white, advice to heat oil for saturating the wood and other technical advice meant they have disappeared from the market altogether. I come across bad technical advice on linseed paint manufacturing and application every day and we need to be very careful to give the right advice so there aren't unnecessary issues. Mould and mildew issues with linseed paint are entirely caused by Allback providing an inferior product for the last 15 years or so. By having competition in this market, the quality is being pushed up. I suspect Allback in the US will go the way they went in the UK...
Great video! I knew linseed oil paint was better for wood and now I know why! Looking to install an arbour and rose arch in my garden in the spring and have been investigating linseed oil paint as an option. It's not cheap but will be worth it if it extends the life of the wood. I also like that it's not based on petrochemicals.
My Dad was a big proponent of linseed oil, now I get why he did not care for exterior painted woods. Saved this vid to order samples and learn how to use effectively, thank you.
Great Video Brent. I am in Ottawa, Ontario Canada (originally from Boston) and I am very familiar with the these products and have done a lot of work on doors and windows using these products. I would love to talk to you about the work you mentioned in this video, that you're planning to do on the exterior of your shop. Great video Brent.
Lots of old buildings here in Norway like those staph churches is painted with linseed oil, turpentine and wood tar. I made this and painted some old moist wood outside that was starting to rot and it has now a beautiful dark brown colour and is dry. Only downside of using wood tar as colouring and pesticide is that its stays sticky forever and collects dust on the surface. Turpentine is great to get the linseed oil to penetrate much deeper in the wood. And both turpentine and wood tar smells powerful and nostalgic 😅
Great video and nice to see you discovering it. I have only recently come across it myself through Lost Art Press' blog, where they're using it on furniture (where it comes out looking fantastic, by the way).
I’m very excited to see you excited about linseed paint! Note that you can use pure linseed oil putty for glazing windows, which I think his website sells. It sounds like maybe you are aware of that already. The Dana brand putty can be painted immediately with linseed paint, so that cuts a week off our restoration process in the shop.
I just ordered a book on linseed oil paint, which is arriving tomorrow. I wanted to see what info was out on UA-cam on it in the mean time and was halfway through this video when I recognized Brouns' name as the author of the book. Looking forward to reading it and using these paints on some projects.
Wonderful. Having painted for 4 decades, products have changed radically. Labor intensive, time intensive, COSTLY. Now you have to work on the mindset of the customer who has to pay for this. Get in, get out, that is the mindset of everyone today. Also, what about clears?
@@JeepMurphy linseed oil is essentially clear…also, the great thing about linseed oil paint is that you can freshen it up by just putting a coat of linseed oil over the top
We also do a clear oil, but bear in mind that the protection against UV light comes from the (solid) powder pigments. That's what makes the paint so durable. A clear finish will need re-oiling much more frequently.
Going back to linseed oil paints, it will be good to check out the old period painters guides for how they used the paint and issues they had with them. The main one is the drying time, driers were available and used. Lead was also a used, so what replaces lead today and how else are contemporary linseed oil paints different from the old ones? More companies are coming out with the linseed oil paints, including one from Sweden. BTW other seed oils were used including some from fish / mammals which gave different properties.
Christopher Schwarz from Lost Art Press has a section on linseed oil paint in his book American Peasant. He suggests applying a coat of soft wax or straight linseed oil after the paint dries with a 3M gray pad to buff out inconsistencies in the painted surface. According to Chris, one of the other benefits to this paint is that it ages much better than a hard finish.
The reason all the old barns in America were barn red was linseed oil mixed with iiron oxide and powdered lead. Cheap and very weatherproof. For a beautiful clear finish mix 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 paint thinner, and 1/3 Spar Varnish. Penetrates, dries and seals. I have used this finish for 50 years,, never had it blister or crack.
Also, quality black china bristle brushes were ubiquitous, now impossible to find.........quality of tooling needs to be discussed as well. What about caulks and putties?
I live in Australia with the highest incidence of skin cancers in the world. This is because the sun is only a metre above our heads. I’ve only ever used linseed oil on all our exterior woodwork and I’ve never had any cause to complain.
Fine art uses linen/cotton canvas and paints made from oils like linseed, walnut, poppyseed depending on the type of pigment used for the colour. Oil paintings can last for hundreds of years so it just seems logical that linseed oil and other oils that cure are good for wood.
I'm going to be building historic reproduction windows (I took Steve Quillion's class) and am going to try some of this. I'm curious to see how it goes.
@@BrounsCo Edit: I just checked in again today and I was able to complete the purchase. I'm excited! Just FYI, I sent a message from your website. Looks like there is an issue with shipping and I can't complete the purchase. It doesn't seem to accept my USA address to be able to select any shipping options? Let me know when it gets fixed and I'll jump back in and complete the purchase . Thanks! 👍
Just don’t be reckless like Clark Griswald and take a chainsaw to a historic newel post! Lol Well done, good info, thanks for sharing as I had no idea about linseed.
Up until the mid 80's, most oil based primers for wood had a lot of linseed oil in it. It was great for bare wood but in the 90's I couldn't find it anymore. As a former painter, I've always advised people not to seal wood as it needs to breathe and move with the seasons. But mot people just don't like the raw look of linseed oil paint. I had a hard time even suggesting it, they just shut you down when you show them a sample.
@ Mostly it is because they do not not any better / different because plastic paint manufacturers only present their finish. In the UK and most of Europe, linseed paint has made a great comeback because people genuinely care about choosing a better option for the environment. Hopefully, the US and Canada will follow suit!
@@BrounsCo US is not going to embrace linseed oil paint in any large scale way. Maybe for furniture but never for housing. We are all about vinyl siding and trim, PVC, plastic decks, fiberglass doors etc. People pay for convenience and that cheap manufactured look. Even houses that still might take paint, linseed oil is pointless because the surface has already been painted with acrylic. We just don't do aesthetics well here anymore.
We will be up-and-running in Canada in the next 2 months, before the start of the new paint season! With a completely dedicated Canadian website and distribution!
@KyleKavanaugh It's a form of tree girdling. A year or two before harvest, they cut strips of bark off the trees with a draw knife or similar. Supposedly, it makes the timber stronger and/or more rot resistant once harvested. Research is limited but does show some positive effects. There's similar folk wisdom about completely girdling trees producing better wood.
@@Senthiuz I've read about the research on this in Norway. They found that it makes the wood darker and more reddish in the outer parts. Tests showed that it's "treated" with an antifungal by the tree itself, the same compound that is found in the core of pine trees (pinosylvin). So yes, this is ancient knowledge. It goes by different names in different parts of the country, but you can find stuff online on "blæking".
I’m a big fan of Rubio Monocoat they just released a very interesting product for exterior. I will check out the linseed paint UA-cam channel. Thanks for always providing good content.
Great video. Your guest mentions a coat of primer prior to applying the linseed oil paint. I presume that's also a linseed oil primer, not a conventional oil based primer?
A lot of people keep having issues *about mold or mildew* on these type of paints. Here's some advise to avoid it. The first signs of mold are mostly small black dots... Those black dots need four things to grow and two of them are controllable: 1. *Uncured linseed oil* -> avoid the use of raw linseed oil (as primer or to dilute the paint) and *use "pre cured oil"* , that's oil that has been sitting in a glass jar and is exposed to (UV) light for about 2 to 6 months. Once and a while you open the cap to let some fresh air in. 2. *Low pH level* (rather acid environment) -> Raise the pH level of the bare wood by *giving it first a lime wash* , leave the lime (chalk) on the wood when dry and paint over it (chalk becomes transparant when oiled). 3. Moisture -> not controllable. 4. Temperature -> not controllable. *Linseed oil needs UV light and oxygen to cure* , so paint on a sunny day if possible. *Keep the layers as thin as possible and give them days or a week to cure* . There's no need for the oil to penetrate deep, 1/10th of an inch is adequate, it's the upper layer that protects the wood. The deeper the oil penetrates, the longer it takes to cure and the more chances it remains uncured which in turn makes the oil a food source for mold. I have had very good results with the lime wash on exterior pine wood (outer walls of a shed). A good source for natural linseed oil, is your local horse shop. Linseed oil is also food for horses. Always buy the one *without* any vitamins or other additives added. Some companies - like Allbäck - will advise you to heat the wood above 60°C / 140°F to kill all the mold spores before painting it or even to heat up your paint while applying it. That might help - heat will kill the mold spores - but it's quite cumbersome to apply on large surfaces or on a ladder. Most commercial companies will add "real" fungicides to their paint to avoid these molds, so always check their (Material) Safety Datasheet or (M)SDS.
Hi Koenraad, traditionally, good quality, boiled linseed oil was used, which is what we still use now. The best method to prevent mildew is to make sure to check whether the right quantity of zinc white is added when the pigment and oil if milled. You want to make sure you end up with a completely homogenous, smooth mixture (paste), which is the foundation for the paint. Preheating oil to saturate wood is some of the worst advice I've seen out there. Please DO NOT pretreat wood with heated oil! There are two major issues with this: 1) As the oil starts to cool down deep inside the timber, its volume changes, causing it to warp and crack. 2) You are relying on the paint to only adhere to the oil, rathe than getting any pigment into the wood. I have see paint delaminate with this approach.
Kindly provide if possible 1. Reference regarding wicking quality of linseed oil paint 2. Type of primer recommended. Seems critical. 3. Antimold treatments recommended 4. Recommended sources. Thanks
Very interesting and it makes a lot of sense to let the wood breath. Can you post details on the wood prep prior to priming and painting with linseed oil paint. We all know preparation is the key to everything. Do you need to do 100% removal if possible of old paint? Will it bubble if some old latex or oil paint is left behind? Will always have some in cracks, joints etc. Thanks!
Linseed oil paint can only work as well as what it gets painted onto, so to more latex paint you can remove, the better. This will not only last longer, it will also keep wood dry over a long period of time. It can be a bit of a pain to remove all the modern paint, but it's a one-off job as you do not need to sand / scrape linseed oil paint before maintenance.
Door'tex !! Lol%} I have been looking for things from the past to preserve the future. Love Linseed, never heard of Linseed paint! Thank Yall SO MUCH 🙏🚂🎼🌹🎶🎵⚕️🛠️~C< 3)>>-Z->}
I’m curious about using linseed oil stain on my wooden deck. I just finished installing a new floor on my deck using 5/4 pressure treated decking. After the spring rain has a chance to dry, I’ll be interested in preserving my deck surface. Is linseed oil based stain a good choice?
Make sure to rest your pressure-treated decking with a sample before committing. Unfortunately, the chemicals used in pressure treatments can keep leaching out for years, affecting the working of (any) paint. We have sample pots on our website you can order so you can give it a try first.
Linseed oil paint in the past was homegrown and unregulated and had this problem. Today what you say is largely untrue for all commercially available linseed paints. The linseed proteins (which were the main source of food for mildew) are now purified out, and anti-mildew zinc oxide is now added. Both of these things make linseed paint anti-mildew
@@KyleKavanaugh Yes and no... In contrary to common believe, the proteïns have nothing to do with it, it's all about the uncured (raw) linseed oil. A lot of manufacturers not only add zinc oxide but also bio-cides and fungicides to their paint, always check their (Material) Safety Datasheet or (M)SDS.
@@KyleKavanaugh Where I live in Connecticut (about 5 miles from the ocean, and in a mature forrest) mildew grows on aluminum gutters, vinyl siding, asphalt roofing, cedar shingles, cedar clapboards, painted trim, metal doors, etc. For years the homes that were stained with linseed oil based penetrating stains, had to be washed at least twice a year to keep the mildew in check. Thanks to the arrival of low VOC products, we have lost access to these penetrating stains. But I can assure you that in this climate, linseed oil products were breeding grounds for mildew. I have lived here for only 25 years, and have yet to find the best finish for my western red cedar, clear vertical grain clapboards. My humble house is 5000 square feet with attached 3 car garage, 35 feet up at the peak of the gable ends. So when it is time to repaint it, it takes a few minutes of work. Believe me, I will pay good money for good stain or paint, since that material cost is small compared to the labor to prepare the surface and apply the paint. My neighbors are spending $30,000 to have their homes painted by "professionals". And who knows what paint those fellas are using. Some of those $30,000 paint jobs last for 3 to 5 years and then you do it all over agin.
@@KyleKavanaugh i have no idea as i live in finland 😂but they seem to be sold here in finland also. Atleast here they are marketed for old house renovations it seems after a quick Google search
@@KyleKavanaugh The main countries historically making linseed oil paint were Germany, the Netherlands, UK and the US. Paint production in Sweden was tiny compared to these countries. Sweden kept making them after WW2, but by no means was linseed oil paint Swedish.
From what I gathered, on interior surfaces, the curing time is much longer and needs UV light to speed up the process. And from what I hear, people are using linseed paint especially for wetter areas like bathrooms and kitchens. But it is a great all-natural, plastic-free paint.
Also, it is on the glossy side and matte is only available on lighter color schemes (the matte additive is white). Contacted Viking Sales in Rochester or Sage Restoration in Ontario for questions
Linseed paint will stick to exisiting (modern) finishes, but if you want the full benefits of linseed oil paint, it is best to remove exisiting (plastic) paints.
Hi Brent. Have you ever heard of Canadian designer Sarah Richardson (she has a channel on here)? She's done a number of houses where she's had to change the exterior brick color and she used a product from a company called Nawkaw. They make a water based penetrating stain that can be used on brick, stone, concrete, cinder blocks and mortar (they can also be used inside for brick accent walls and fireplaces). I've always been leery about painting brick surfaces because the paint creates a film on the surface that can potentially block water vapor from evaporating out of the brick. According to their website, their stain allows the brick to retain its breathability, thus preventing cracking, spalling and delamination of the surface material.
@@KyleKavanaugh It doesn't say on their site what the specific ingredients are, just that they are environmentally friendly colorants and binders that are engineered for different climates (hot and humid, cold and dry, etc). Sarah Richardson has used them on a few of her homes up in Canada and they seem to stand up well.
@@BrentHull Yes, like, for example, Grolsch. I can understand keeping water out, but not something as good as Grosch. And I like those bottles with the lever to flip off the cap.
@ryansoo4000 Mr. Pincen here is correct. I believe hand painting is encouraged, however, since it penetrates deeper into the wood, if I’m not mistaken. Metal, stone, plaster… but also brick as well. Though it seems to work best on wood. I would say for exterior paint, linseed oil paint is the best, though for brick and stone I’ve heard that lime wash paint is perhaps better
We always recommend application with a natural bristle brush as that helps push the paint into the surface. Spraying, by default, lays it on the surface as a film. It is possible to spray but then make sure to brush it in before the polymerisation starts.
My questions are these: Does this Linseed oil based paint come in different sheens and does one only apply one coat or are two and even three coats better?
I'm not aware that it does, but after time my linseed painted siding has dulled after 2 years where it sees the most sun/ weather. Still more shiny where it doesn't though.
It has one sheen only. it starts off with a high gloss, but fairly quickly dulls to a more matte finish linseed paint is so well known for. If you want a higher sheen again when this happens, just wipe it with some boiled linseed oil.
Online. Brouns & Co is a great starting point. But there is also Sage Restoration (Allbäck), Viking Sales (Ottosson), and Earth + Flax (Ottosson). All are great. I’ve preferred Ottosson personally though I haven’t tried Brouns & Co. yet! I’m happy to learn about them through this video
You can but if you’re just painting over latex paint, there is no point really, as the wood still won’t be able breathe outward. Unless, you just prefer a 100% natural paint, which linseed paint is.
Linseed oil paint will adhere to other existing paints, but it will only perform as well as those. To get the full wicking properties, you are best off removing modern plastic paints first. Historic linseed paint or lime wash can be left and overpainted.
@@BrounsCo well completely different isn't really accurate. it was a different recipe mainly they used what they had. They also apparently are much better at it than we are. I watched sometime a while back on it and I believe it was the limestone that melts and reseals the cracks and defects as it ages. pretty impressive
Because you paint so thin, each tin covers more area than modern paints. So while each tin is more expensive, it can be cheaper than modern paints in total. It was for me.
Whoa. Is this way to much to have to think about as a consumer? Now our paint is no longer protecting the wood, it's causing it to rot? Holy cow. Appreciate this discussion, but would be great if these issues were resolved with consensus scientific facts and data at an industry level? Gave you a thumbs up/
Discussions are occurring on this front at the scientific level. Michiel Brouns’s book is great for this. The National Park Service has also published scientific studies on linseed oil paint
@@Laguna2013my vote would be Ottosson linseed paint from Viking Sales. Allbäck has the better reputation but Ottosson is a bit more user friendly. No need to mix in the Zinc Oxide. But this is absolutely the best investment to protect your exterior wood
@@koenraadprincen7212 No, and it is quite damp here at times. It also works fine straight onto oak and cedar for which modern paints aren't suitable. Also painted some new aluminium guttering over 5 years ago and it worked perfectly - although took several days to days to dry.
Sage Restoration and Viking Sales have offer lower prices comparable to high end exterior paints. Linseed paint also covers twice as much and lasts much, much longer. Indefinitely.
In my experience, it was cheaper than modern paints because it spreads so thin. You have to compare the price per sqft/sqm painted. That said, it does take more time to paint, if you're counting that in dollars. You should also factor in the time before it needs repainting, which if done by professionals can be up to 30 years. You could also factor in the fact that it prevents the wood from rotting, unlike modern impermeable paints. So in total, it's a bargain, in my opinion. If done correctly, that must be said.
Linseed oil now goes through an extensive purification process and mixed with anti-fungal zinc oxide additive. Ottoson and Allbäck are great manufacturers
I used linseed oil paint from allback (sage restoration) when I restored our 1850s windows due to the historic accuracy. Everyone said I was crazy. It was a disaster after 9 months. Even with the zinc I could not get it to stop growing organic mildews, molds, ect. I was so disappointed.
The first signs of mold were probably small black dots... There are several options to avoid this... those black dots need four things to grow and two of them are controllable: 1. Uncured linseed oil -> avoid the use of raw linseed oil (as primer or to dilute the paint) and use "pre cured oil", that's oil that has been sitting in a glass jar and exposed to light for about 6 months. Once and a while you open the cap to let some fresh air in. 2. Low pH level (rather acid environment) -> Raise the pH level of the bare wood by giving it first a lime wash, leave the lime (chalk) on the wood when dry and paint over it (chalk becomes transparant when oiled). 3. Moisture -> not controllable. 4. Temperature -> not controllable. I have had very good results with the lime wash on exterior pine wood (outer walls of a shed). Some companies - like Allback - will advise you to heat the wood above 60°C / 140°F to kill all the mold spores before painting it or even to heat up your paint while applying it. But most commercial companies will add "real" fungicides to their paint to avoid these molds.
@@debluetailfly The manufacturer has nothing to do with it. The longer the oil remains uncured, the more chances for mold grow. That's why I avoid raw linseed oil and advise to use "pre cured oil" in the first layer (primer) or if you want to dilute the paint. Linseed oil needs UV-light (and oxygen) to cure... so paint on sunny days. When painting wood, there is no need for the paint to penetrate deep, 1/10th of an inch is more than enough. The deeper the oil penetrates to more difficult the curing process (less access to UV light and oxygen). Curing oil expands, making it more difficult for the underlaying oil to cure. But the lime wash is the most effective in my eyes.
@@ThePolypam Watched the whole thing and listened carefully. I still have the same question about PFAS. Many paints contain PFAS. It is a valid question.
No, but some people can get a headache from painting all day inside. It's not harmful though. Good ventilation solves it, and speed up the drying anyway.
What about yellowing? One thing I dislike about traditional oil paint is that it yellows overtime, so your whites start to look like a smoker lived in your house for 40 years.
@@toomanymarys7355 Not true, check the oil paintings in the art world... when paintings went into storage, the whites yellowed but became white again when exposed to natural light.
A lot of the time, at least on artistic painting, its the clear protective varnish that goes yellow. Unsure if house paint would be similar. Still cool to check out art restoration videos on UA-cam
I just pulled some test samples out of a dark drawer... they have been there for 15 months. They started as fully transparent and all are now straw yellow, the yellowness depends on the layer thickness and the pre-treatment of the oil (water washing, sun bleaching & aeration). Now, I want to check how long it takes before the yellowness disappears... I'll keep you posted :-)
Yes, you need to be careful with the cleaning rags when these contain fresh paint, you need to dispose them in a closed metal bucket or dimple them in water.
Never leave rags soaked in linseed oil laying around; they are very prone to spontaneous combustion. But when you are using a brush and stretching the paint onto the surface, there is no problem with spontaneous combustion. Some who have worked with faux finishes use linseed oil glazes and use a lot of rags. I have known of some dumpster fires where they threw their rags. You can hang rags on a wire and let them totally dry out, and then throw them away. I have personally had a rag begin smoldering after going on a half hour lunch break. I threw it outside real quick. But again not a problem painting a house with linseed oil paint.
The answer to your question, Brent - products reintroduced from the past that make structures last longer are not used because they cost twice as much. With how quickly and thoughtlessly people replace items for something "new", who wants to invest in making something last longer than they will live to enjoy it?
The products cost twice as much, but they often last more than twice as long. So in a long-term perspective, they're cheaper. Problem is that we have lost that perspective, so we keep making dumb decisions that maybe cost less today but more in the long run. That's true on all levels of our society.
The Netherlands has AMAZING historic buildings and there is a huge effort to continue to build up to historic standards. US build quality is pure garbage.
I've lived in my current home for 35 years. It's was neglected when I purchased chased it. At the beginning of year 2 I started on doors and windows. I scraped or torched off all of the latex paint. I then gave the frames 2 coats of boiled Linseed oil. The third coat was a "primer" of 1 part oil paint and 3 parts Linseed oil. The final coats were oil paint and two coatings of it. It took 3 years to make it all the way around the house. NOW over 30 years later the paint is starting to deteriorate. Now in my mid 70's I get to start over again.....but it will be worth it because I won't have to do it again.
@tomprivate3362 that is incredible. How is it starting to deteriorate? I have yet to meet someone who says their linseed oil paint has deteriorated. Presumably because almost everyone I know has only started using it 0 - 25 years ago.
Once it starts to go matte, just give it a wipe with some boiled linseed oil to nourish the paint (and put back what the UV light has broken down) and you won't even need to repaint!
Well done. Thx.
@@BrounsCo I’ve heard that before, except raw linseed oil instead of boiled linseed oil. Is there a reason why you proscribe boiled linseed oil instead of raw?
These days, people expect paint to always look like it was painted yesterday, like the plastic paints we see everywhere. Linseed oil paint gracefully fades by countless tiny hairline fractures, giving it a matte appearance over time. But that's when it starts to "breathe", which is why the wood lasts so long. I also think that's when the paint becomes beautiful, almost more dignified in a way. I don't think shiny plastic houses are beautiful.
Actually, to begin with, linseed oil paint is as impermeable as modern paints. It's the weathering and the tiny cracks that make it gradually more permeable over time. So I'd actually wait quite a bit before I freshen it up with linseed oil or repaint it. And I'd be careful not to apply too much over the years. It's possible to make it as impermeable as modern plastic paints if you add too much, initially or over time. It must be applied thinly and in not too many layers for the "breathing" quality to remain. According to a master painter here in Norway, if the job was done by someone who knows what they're doing, it can last 30 years before it needs repainting.
I used linseed paint on the exterior of my home and swear by it. Its never let me down. It's been on the house in the deep south with 100 plus temps & high humidity no issues at all for almost a decade.
Nice! Thanks for sharing!
Who is the manufacturer of your paint?
I’m glad that someone is getting the word out about linseed oil paints. I think that these sort of paints for historic buildings in particular will continue to make a comeback. I also think that your guest is absolutely correct that finishing in linseed oil paints will result in much more durable and long, lasting wooden details and finishes.
AI wrote this.
Thanks.
@@HerbieBancock umm no…
Yeah it's a no-brainer!
Dad was a big fan of linseed oil as a primer and wood conditioner. The secret is you needed direct sun and 70+F temps for it to dry cure. In the shade, it takes weeks to cure. Raw wood drinks linseed oil. Painted wood is refreshed if it is able to polymerize and will take any good paint. Great results if you can afford the cure time.
Using a good application brush and finishing brush will help putting on coats nice and thin. If the paint gets applied too thickly, it can indeed take long to cure.
Noted. thx.
Here in Scandinavia we're told not to paint with linseed oil paint in direct sunlight, because it dries too quickly. Yes, it dries slower than modern paints, so the whole job takes longer, especially indoors. But that's how it should be, if you ask me, you shouldn't rush a paint job. Besides, I love painting with linseed oil paint, it's almost like meditation. And the smell… I just love linseed oil paint.
One tip though: Linseed oil paint needs fresh air to dry. If painting indoors, make sure there's good ventilation or it _will_ take weeks.
I painted new cedar siding with Linseed paint two and a half years ago and it's doing great. It was a learning curve with longer dry times etc, but no hint of peeling or modern style paint failure - just a more flat sheen from the original satin.
Thanks.
Excellent!
Praise be and hallelujah! As a blacksmith and amateur historian of the traditional trades, I cannot tell you how vexing it's been to get people doing things the "old way". Everyone thinks "We've always done it like this", never realizing that this stuff today is amazingly new.
Linseed, Pine Tar, Ochre.... that's what made our barns red. The Pine Tar has a natural anti-microbial/fungal property that staves off rot and insects. The Linseed oil has a natural polymerization when it dries. The ochres give you color and protection against UV degradation over time.
And, honestly, the finished colors just look so amazingly good! There's a warmth to the piece, and they develop a patina that no modern paints can possibly hope to compete with.
Here in the smithy, all my wooden handles get an annual coating of pine tar. Not only does it keep the wood healthy, but it colors the handles beautifully.
I highly recommend Linseed Oil paints. Also recommend Pine Tar paints and Milk Paints. You will be far better off if you get away from using modern petroleum-based paints.
For your “Linseed, Pine Tar, Ochre” paint, do you make and mix your paint yourself or do you order a linseed-pine tar-ochre barn paint from somewhere?
@@KyleKavanaugh You can buy the Pine Tar Paint commercially. It's pricey, but often easier than trying to procure the ingredients separately. Adding Linseed Oil to the mix isn't entirely necessary, but a good way of stretching things out. Wooden Boat enthusiasts will often make up their own "Boat Soup" recipe when they want a protective coating on their woodwork.
To thin the paint, use genuine Turpentine, also a product of the pine tree.
Generally, I prefer more linseed oil in the mix than pine tar because the tar tends to be darker and can make it difficult to get a bright color from your ochre choice.
Ottoson Linseed oil paint is a good brand name to look for. They have a nice selection of colors, though if you add pine tar to them you can expect the color to darken a bit.
Another option is to put on the pine tar paint first as your priming layer and then add your top coats as the more decorative finish. That way the pine tar gets a chance to soak into the wood and not mix with your choice of color so much.
Thanks for sharing.
@@threeriversforge1997 Sage Restoration and Viking Sales sell Auson pine tar mixed with linseed oil and pigmented. Have you tried that product at all?
@@KyleKavanaugh I have not, but thanks for putting them on my radar!
Looking at their website, I like how they mention that the pine tar fights against mold and fungus. I know everyone likes linseed oil, but every time I've used that stuff on wood, I've had to fight against mold and mildew growing on the wood. I never see that with pine tar.
In the olden days, pine tar was used exclusively on the naval fleets of the empires and wars were literally fought over the stuff because it was so essential. Then, linseed oil was discovered or invented, and they found that they could add that to the pine tar to stretch out their reserves of the PT and get some good benefits from the mix.
Most of the linseed oil paints available today talk about having Zinc Oxide in them to stave off mold and mildew growth. Using ZO also allows them to get better color choices since it doesn't darken the paints like pine tar tends to do.
I'll definitely keep Sage Restoration in mind next time I'm buying!
I really enjoy this channel and the "old way" approach to every topic. It's exciting to hear this discussion, and I've only just started to dive into woodworking. My family and I live in a beautiful river town in Maine, and our house is nearing 200 years old. Such character! Certainly our modern age has produced wonderful advancements, but I love how your channel reminds us to take time and look back for inspiration. As a musician, I'm picking up on so many correlations to the music field, and, I'm sure, to just about every other field of study. Brilliant channel concept!
Appreciate you! Glad you enjoy the channel.
I started using Linseed oil paint (imported from Europe) about 10 years ago on my house exterior. He’s telling the truth about its advantages for an old wood home. Zero peeling or cracking. You do have to be mindful about mold by making sure it has a mildewcide (sp?) included.
The zinc oxide is mildewcide/fungicide. You mix it into Allbäck while Ottosson has zinc oxide pre-mixed in. Have you used something other than zinc oxide?
@@KyleKavanaugh Only the correct amount of zinc white works for this. And it needs to be milled in at source to get a full dispersion in the paint. Stirring it in will unfortunately not be sufficient.
Thanks for sharing.
@@BrounsCo that’s what most linseed oil experts seem to say. Any idea why Allbäck doesn’t sell it pre-mixed for you?
Glad to hear yours is pre-mixed.
@ It's a complete mystery. Allback used to supply in the UK through Holkham estate. They stopped doing this because the removal of zinc white, advice to heat oil for saturating the wood and other technical advice meant they have disappeared from the market altogether. I come across bad technical advice on linseed paint manufacturing and application every day and we need to be very careful to give the right advice so there aren't unnecessary issues. Mould and mildew issues with linseed paint are entirely caused by Allback providing an inferior product for the last 15 years or so. By having competition in this market, the quality is being pushed up. I suspect Allback in the US will go the way they went in the UK...
Great video! I knew linseed oil paint was better for wood and now I know why!
Looking to install an arbour and rose arch in my garden in the spring and have been investigating linseed oil paint as an option. It's not cheap but will be worth it if it extends the life of the wood. I also like that it's not based on petrochemicals.
Me too.
Yep it's completely free from VOCs, phthalates, PSFs, microplastics, etc.
My Dad was a big proponent of linseed oil, now I get why he did not care for exterior painted woods. Saved this vid to order samples and learn how to use effectively, thank you.
Glad it helped.
Great Video Brent. I am in Ottawa, Ontario Canada (originally from Boston) and I am very familiar with the these products and have done a lot of work on doors and windows using these products. I would love to talk to you about the work you mentioned in this video, that you're planning to do on the exterior of your shop. Great video Brent.
Of course. Thx.
Lots of old buildings here in Norway like those staph churches is painted with linseed oil, turpentine and wood tar.
I made this and painted some old moist wood outside that was starting to rot and it has now a beautiful dark brown colour and is dry.
Only downside of using wood tar as colouring and pesticide is that its stays sticky forever and collects dust on the surface.
Turpentine is great to get the linseed oil to penetrate much deeper in the wood.
And both turpentine and wood tar smells powerful and nostalgic 😅
Ha, thx.
Turpentine does not make it penetrate deeper - it acts as a solvent...
Thanks for jumping into linseed oil paint Brent! Earth & Flax has a lot of videos on linseed oil paint!
Thanks, I'll check them out!
Great video and nice to see you discovering it. I have only recently come across it myself through Lost Art Press' blog, where they're using it on furniture (where it comes out looking fantastic, by the way).
Thanks for sharing!
I’m very excited to see you excited about linseed paint! Note that you can use pure linseed oil putty for glazing windows, which I think his website sells. It sounds like maybe you are aware of that already. The Dana brand putty can be painted immediately with linseed paint, so that cuts a week off our restoration process in the shop.
Thanks for the tip!
Linseed oil putty should be overpainted with linseed oil paint as soon as it has a bit of a skin. That way they can dry and cure wet-in-wet.
I just ordered a book on linseed oil paint, which is arriving tomorrow. I wanted to see what info was out on UA-cam on it in the mean time and was halfway through this video when I recognized Brouns' name as the author of the book. Looking forward to reading it and using these paints on some projects.
That's great! You'll enjoy the book.
Hope you enjoy it!
Brouns’s book is the best on it!
extremely informative. I really appreciate this interview.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Glad it was useful!
Wonderful. Having painted for 4 decades, products have changed radically. Labor intensive, time intensive, COSTLY. Now you have to work on the mindset of the customer who has to pay for this.
Get in, get out, that is the mindset of everyone today.
Also, what about clears?
Good question. I'll find out.
@@JeepMurphy linseed oil is essentially clear…also, the great thing about linseed oil paint is that you can freshen it up by just putting a coat of linseed oil over the top
We also do a clear oil, but bear in mind that the protection against UV light comes from the (solid) powder pigments. That's what makes the paint so durable. A clear finish will need re-oiling much more frequently.
Interesting. As usual! Thanks.
Appreciate it!
Wow! Very neat!
Thank you! Cheers!
Going back to linseed oil paints, it will be good to check out the old period painters guides for how they used the paint and issues they had with them. The main one is the drying time, driers were available and used. Lead was also a used, so what replaces lead today and how else are contemporary linseed oil paints different from the old ones? More companies are coming out with the linseed oil paints, including one from Sweden. BTW other seed oils were used including some from fish / mammals which gave different properties.
Lead was for the base white color.
I haven't heard of paints with other oils, do you have any recommendations for where I could learn more about the differences?
@@elsa_g Every so called "drying oil" can be used: sunflower oil, safflower oil, tung oil,...
@ I see, I've heard of using tung oil before, specifically for kitchen utensils.
@@elsa_g Tung oil has better water proofing properties and it is a bit more glossy.
Great video Brent
Thx!
Christopher Schwarz from Lost Art Press has a section on linseed oil paint in his book American Peasant. He suggests applying a coat of soft wax or straight linseed oil after the paint dries with a 3M gray pad to buff out inconsistencies in the painted surface. According to Chris, one of the other benefits to this paint is that it ages much better than a hard finish.
Ok, thx for sharing.
Wax is fine for interior applications but be cautious with exterior finishes as wax is film-forming and will prevent diffusion from happening.
Outstanding video of yours as always. Thank you both so much for sharing your knowledge.
Happy New Year 🙏🎄❄️
Happy New Year to you! Thx for watching.
My pleasure - Happy New Year!
The reason all the old barns in America were barn red was linseed oil mixed with iiron oxide and powdered lead. Cheap and very weatherproof. For a beautiful clear finish mix 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 paint thinner, and 1/3 Spar Varnish. Penetrates, dries and seals. I have used this finish for 50 years,, never had it blister or crack.
Thanks for sharing.
Very cool, learned something new today
Glad to hear it!
Amazing! That's what it's all about!
@ hopefully you decide to expand to Canada some day! In the mean time I’ll learn enough to take advantage when you do
@@AdamTillontheWeb We're setting it up as we speak! Canadian website and warehouse should be up and running in the next 2 months!
@ woot! Lovely to hear! Much continued success!
Delighted I found this channel.
Welcome aboard.
Also, quality black china bristle brushes were ubiquitous, now impossible to find.........quality of tooling needs to be discussed as well. What about caulks and putties?
Noted. More to come.
All these things are readely available in several Swedish high quality linseed oilpaints. No need to invent the wheel!
I live in Australia with the highest incidence of skin cancers in the world. This is because the sun is only a metre above our heads. I’ve only ever used linseed oil on all our exterior woodwork and I’ve never had any cause to complain.
Good to know. Thx!
Great endorsement!
Fine art uses linen/cotton canvas and paints made from oils like linseed, walnut, poppyseed depending on the type of pigment used for the colour. Oil paintings can last for hundreds of years so it just seems logical that linseed oil and other oils that cure are good for wood.
Nice. Thx for sharing.
Thanks for the information concerning linseed oil paint. 👍👍👍👍
You bet!
My pleasure!
I remember a childhood cricket bat with instructions to coat in linseed oil.
Makes sense.
I'm going to be building historic reproduction windows (I took Steve Quillion's class) and am going to try some of this. I'm curious to see how it goes.
Keep me posted. Thx.
Keep us updated!
@@BrounsCo Edit: I just checked in again today and I was able to complete the purchase. I'm excited!
Just FYI, I sent a message from your website. Looks like there is an issue with shipping and I can't complete the purchase. It doesn't seem to accept my USA address to be able to select any shipping options? Let me know when it gets fixed and I'll jump back in and complete the purchase . Thanks! 👍
Just don’t be reckless like Clark Griswald and take a chainsaw to a historic newel post! Lol
Well done, good info, thanks for sharing as I had no idea about linseed.
Thanks 👍
Up until the mid 80's, most oil based primers for wood had a lot of linseed oil in it. It was great for bare wood but in the 90's I couldn't find it anymore. As a former painter, I've always advised people not to seal wood as it needs to breathe and move with the seasons. But mot people just don't like the raw look of linseed oil paint. I had a hard time even suggesting it, they just shut you down when you show them a sample.
Thx for sharing. From my research, a good firm like Brouns is key.
I am not entirely sure how people have been convinced that this appearance is somehow bad or wrong, but I hope it can in time be reversed. :\
It's the plastic age, people want everything to look like plastic.
@ Mostly it is because they do not not any better / different because plastic paint manufacturers only present their finish. In the UK and most of Europe, linseed paint has made a great comeback because people genuinely care about choosing a better option for the environment. Hopefully, the US and Canada will follow suit!
@@BrounsCo US is not going to embrace linseed oil paint in any large scale way. Maybe for furniture but never for housing. We are all about vinyl siding and trim, PVC, plastic decks, fiberglass doors etc. People pay for convenience and that cheap manufactured look. Even houses that still might take paint, linseed oil is pointless because the surface has already been painted with acrylic. We just don't do aesthetics well here anymore.
Good to see you have gained a new linseed option. Perhaps someday, some more options will enter Canada. 🤞
Fingers crossed.
Sage Restoration stocks Allbäck linseed paint and is based in Canada!
And Michael Sinclair is very knowledgeable. Offers workshops and everything
We will be up-and-running in Canada in the next 2 months, before the start of the new paint season! With a completely dedicated Canadian website and distribution!
Since my youth, I learned to dip all my ax handles in boiled linseed oil. Is this basically the same thing but with colorant?
Thx.
Boiled linseed oil dries faster. Generally, the more processed it is (sunning, boiling, leading, etc.) the faster it dries and the darker it becomes.
@@lordofthemound3890 Linseed oil paint is boiled oil with raw earth pigments, so essentially the same thing.
Pretty much. Even though a good quality paint should never be made using colorants but genuine powder pigments!
@@lordofthemound3890 Boiled linseed oil also has larger molecules. So raw linseed oil penetrates deeper into the wood, if that's what you want.
Good information 👍
Thx
I've thought about using Masonry paint, which allows brick to breathe.
Don't paint brick!
I don't like painting brick, but would use a sealer from Prosoco.
Spotbarking the timber and linseed paint equate to 1000 year old buildings in Scandinavia
Never heard of spot barking. What does that do?
@KyleKavanaugh It's a form of tree girdling. A year or two before harvest, they cut strips of bark off the trees with a draw knife or similar. Supposedly, it makes the timber stronger and/or more rot resistant once harvested. Research is limited but does show some positive effects. There's similar folk wisdom about completely girdling trees producing better wood.
Nice. Thanks for sharing.
@@Senthiuz I've read about the research on this in Norway. They found that it makes the wood darker and more reddish in the outer parts. Tests showed that it's "treated" with an antifungal by the tree itself, the same compound that is found in the core of pine trees (pinosylvin). So yes, this is ancient knowledge. It goes by different names in different parts of the country, but you can find stuff online on "blæking".
I’m a big fan of Rubio Monocoat they just released a very interesting product for exterior. I will check out the linseed paint UA-cam channel. Thanks for always providing good content.
Be aware that Rubio uses biocides in their products, so it's not 100% natural.
Noted. Thx.
Great video. Your guest mentions a coat of primer prior to applying the linseed oil paint. I presume that's also a linseed oil primer, not a conventional oil based primer?
Yes, it is.
A lot of people keep having issues *about mold or mildew* on these type of paints. Here's some advise to avoid it.
The first signs of mold are mostly small black dots...
Those black dots need four things to grow and two of them are controllable:
1. *Uncured linseed oil* -> avoid the use of raw linseed oil (as primer or to dilute the paint) and *use "pre cured oil"* , that's oil that has been sitting in a glass jar and is exposed to (UV) light for about 2 to 6 months. Once and a while you open the cap to let some fresh air in.
2. *Low pH level* (rather acid environment) -> Raise the pH level of the bare wood by *giving it first a lime wash* , leave the lime (chalk) on the wood when dry and paint over it (chalk becomes transparant when oiled).
3. Moisture -> not controllable.
4. Temperature -> not controllable.
*Linseed oil needs UV light and oxygen to cure* , so paint on a sunny day if possible.
*Keep the layers as thin as possible and give them days or a week to cure* . There's no need for the oil to penetrate deep, 1/10th of an inch is adequate, it's the upper layer that protects the wood.
The deeper the oil penetrates, the longer it takes to cure and the more chances it remains uncured which in turn makes the oil a food source for mold.
I have had very good results with the lime wash on exterior pine wood (outer walls of a shed).
A good source for natural linseed oil, is your local horse shop. Linseed oil is also food for horses. Always buy the one *without* any vitamins or other additives added.
Some companies - like Allbäck - will advise you to heat the wood above 60°C / 140°F to kill all the mold spores before painting it or even to heat up your paint while applying it. That might help - heat will kill the mold spores - but it's quite cumbersome to apply on large surfaces or on a ladder.
Most commercial companies will add "real" fungicides to their paint to avoid these molds, so always check their (Material) Safety Datasheet or (M)SDS.
thx.
Hi Koenraad, traditionally, good quality, boiled linseed oil was used, which is what we still use now. The best method to prevent mildew is to make sure to check whether the right quantity of zinc white is added when the pigment and oil if milled. You want to make sure you end up with a completely homogenous, smooth mixture (paste), which is the foundation for the paint. Preheating oil to saturate wood is some of the worst advice I've seen out there. Please DO NOT pretreat wood with heated oil! There are two major issues with this: 1) As the oil starts to cool down deep inside the timber, its volume changes, causing it to warp and crack. 2) You are relying on the paint to only adhere to the oil, rathe than getting any pigment into the wood. I have see paint delaminate with this approach.
Kindly provide if possible
1. Reference regarding wicking quality of linseed oil paint
2. Type of primer recommended. Seems critical.
3. Antimold treatments recommended
4. Recommended sources.
Thanks
All this information is available on the Brouns & CO website.
Very interesting and it makes a lot of sense to let the wood breath. Can you post details on the wood prep prior to priming and painting with linseed oil paint. We all know preparation is the key to everything. Do you need to do 100% removal if possible of old paint? Will it bubble if some old latex or oil paint is left behind? Will always have some in cracks, joints etc. Thanks!
Linseed oil paint can only work as well as what it gets painted onto, so to more latex paint you can remove, the better. This will not only last longer, it will also keep wood dry over a long period of time. It can be a bit of a pain to remove all the modern paint, but it's a one-off job as you do not need to sand / scrape linseed oil paint before maintenance.
Noted. Thanks.
Brent nice to see you wearing an RM Williams plaited kangaroo belt (& the paint looks great).
haha, thx.
Door'tex !! Lol%} I have been looking for things from the past to preserve the future. Love Linseed, never heard of Linseed paint! Thank Yall SO MUCH 🙏🚂🎼🌹🎶🎵⚕️🛠️~C< 3)>>-Z->}
Rock on!
@BrentHull Thanks for keeping us rollin' ! 🎨💗🎵🎶
I’m curious about using linseed oil stain on my wooden deck. I just finished installing a new floor on my deck using 5/4 pressure treated decking. After the spring rain has a chance to dry, I’ll be interested in preserving my deck surface. Is linseed oil based stain a good choice?
sorry, we are new to it as well. I don't know, but i would reach out to Brouns and Co.
You can try Viking Sales (US) or Sage Restoration (Canada) as well
Make sure to rest your pressure-treated decking with a sample before committing. Unfortunately, the chemicals used in pressure treatments can keep leaching out for years, affecting the working of (any) paint. We have sample pots on our website you can order so you can give it a try first.
Linseed oil is a breeding ground for mildew. So frequent cleaning with dilute bleach solutions or PSP are necessary in climates that are moist.
That's because of lack op preparation and the use of "too" raw linseed oil, see my answer elsewhere here.
Thanks for sharing.
Linseed oil paint in the past was homegrown and unregulated and had this problem. Today what you say is largely untrue for all commercially available linseed paints. The linseed proteins (which were the main source of food for mildew) are now purified out, and anti-mildew zinc oxide is now added. Both of these things make linseed paint anti-mildew
@@KyleKavanaugh Yes and no...
In contrary to common believe, the proteïns have nothing to do with it, it's all about the uncured (raw) linseed oil.
A lot of manufacturers not only add zinc oxide but also bio-cides and fungicides to their paint, always check their (Material) Safety Datasheet or (M)SDS.
@@KyleKavanaugh Where I live in Connecticut (about 5 miles from the ocean, and in a mature forrest) mildew grows on aluminum gutters, vinyl siding, asphalt roofing, cedar shingles, cedar clapboards, painted trim, metal doors, etc. For years the homes that were stained with linseed oil based penetrating stains, had to be washed at least twice a year to keep the mildew in check. Thanks to the arrival of low VOC products, we have lost access to these penetrating stains. But I can assure you that in this climate, linseed oil products were breeding grounds for mildew. I have lived here for only 25 years, and have yet to find the best finish for my western red cedar, clear vertical grain clapboards. My humble house is 5000 square feet with attached 3 car garage, 35 feet up at the peak of the gable ends. So when it is time to repaint it, it takes a few minutes of work. Believe me, I will pay good money for good stain or paint, since that material cost is small compared to the labor to prepare the surface and apply the paint. My neighbors are spending $30,000 to have their homes painted by "professionals". And who knows what paint those fellas are using. Some of those $30,000 paint jobs last for 3 to 5 years and then you do it all over agin.
Love all your videos. Thank you. Whats the widest you would make a tudor arched front door before it needs to become a double door please?
I don't think there is a good precedent for a pair of doors in the Tudor tradition. THus I'd avoid getting larger than 4'. IMO
Lindseed paints are very normal here in finland its weird to see that americans have "forgotten" them 😅 red ochre paint is also very popular here
We can sometimes be slow to get it. Hopefully it will catch on. Thx.
The only two Swedish linseed paints readily available here in the U.S. are Allbäck and Ottosson. Do they have a good reputation over there in Sweden?
@@KyleKavanaugh i have no idea as i live in finland 😂but they seem to be sold here in finland also. Atleast here they are marketed for old house renovations it seems after a quick Google search
@@larrywaveinteresting. And as far as you know Allbäck and Ottosson aren’t commonly sold in Finland?
@@KyleKavanaugh The main countries historically making linseed oil paint were Germany, the Netherlands, UK and the US. Paint production in Sweden was tiny compared to these countries. Sweden kept making them after WW2, but by no means was linseed oil paint Swedish.
Would you use this on inside surfaces like cabinets? Charles
I'd also like to know this answer. I think yes, it's also better for inside wood too.
Yes, but don't use a light color as linseed oil tends to yellow in the dark.
Good question, we are using it only for exterior now. Thx.
From what I gathered, on interior surfaces, the curing time is much longer and needs UV light to speed up the process. And from what I hear, people are using linseed paint especially for wetter areas like bathrooms and kitchens. But it is a great all-natural, plastic-free paint.
Also, it is on the glossy side and matte is only available on lighter color schemes (the matte additive is white). Contacted Viking Sales in Rochester or Sage Restoration in Ontario for questions
On a previously stained solid wood door, is it enough to lightly sand or should I sand all the way through the stain before using linseed oil paint?
Depends a bit on what was used as a stain... was it water based, acrylic, oil,... ?
We got back to the raw wood. Thx.
Linseed paint will stick to exisiting (modern) finishes, but if you want the full benefits of linseed oil paint, it is best to remove exisiting (plastic) paints.
Hi Brent. Have you ever heard of Canadian designer Sarah Richardson (she has a channel on here)? She's done a number of houses where she's had to change the exterior brick color and she used a product from a company called Nawkaw. They make a water based penetrating stain that can be used on brick, stone, concrete, cinder blocks and mortar (they can also be used inside for brick accent walls and fireplaces).
I've always been leery about painting brick surfaces because the paint creates a film on the surface that can potentially block water vapor from evaporating out of the brick. According to their website, their stain allows the brick to retain its breathability, thus preventing cracking, spalling and delamination of the surface material.
Interesting. What are the main ingredients? It doesn’t contain latex or acrylic? Does it have an ingredient that makes the latex breathe?
Hi, sorry, I don't know about that. I'll check it out.
@@KyleKavanaugh It doesn't say on their site what the specific ingredients are, just that they are environmentally friendly colorants and binders that are engineered for different climates (hot and humid, cold and dry, etc). Sarah Richardson has used them on a few of her homes up in Canada and they seem to stand up well.
@@ryansoo4000 The binder is silicate (aka "water glass").
What primer did you use? I love the idea of paint that breathes.
Linseed primer. Thx.
So is the primer also linseed oil based?
Yes, in the video when he was painting white on the wood, I thought the can said linseed primer.
Yes. Thx.
Yes! A good primer is 70% purified raw linseed oil mixed with 30% linseed oil paint!
@@KyleKavanaugh A good primer is 50% paint : 35% raw linseed oil and 15% balsam turpentine mixed well.
Is it possible to take the doors off, sand them, and refinish them?
Yes. that is what we did.
@@BrentHull Great work they are beautiful!
What about Dutch Beer? Do we want to keep that out?
Dutch beer?
@@BrentHull Yes, like, for example, Grolsch. I can understand keeping water out, but not something as good as Grosch. And I like those bottles with the lever to flip off the cap.
Can you spray a linseed oil paint? Can it be used on surfaces other than wood?
Yes, but you might need an airless system.
And yes, it can be used on other material like metal, stone, plaster,...
I don't think Brouns sells it that way, but I don't see why you couldn't spray it from a rig.
@ryansoo4000 Mr. Pincen here is correct. I believe hand painting is encouraged, however, since it penetrates deeper into the wood, if I’m not mistaken. Metal, stone, plaster… but also brick as well. Though it seems to work best on wood. I would say for exterior paint, linseed oil paint is the best, though for brick and stone I’ve heard that lime wash paint is perhaps better
We always recommend application with a natural bristle brush as that helps push the paint into the surface. Spraying, by default, lays it on the surface as a film. It is possible to spray but then make sure to brush it in before the polymerisation starts.
My questions are these: Does this Linseed oil based paint come in different sheens and does one only apply one coat or are two and even three coats better?
I'm not aware that it does, but after time my linseed painted siding has dulled after 2 years where it sees the most sun/ weather. Still more shiny where it doesn't though.
he answered this in the video, one base primer coat then two more coats should do it
We are applying 3 coats because of the way the wood obsorbs the linseed oil. We are using a high sheen. Thx.
It has one sheen only. it starts off with a high gloss, but fairly quickly dulls to a more matte finish linseed paint is so well known for. If you want a higher sheen again when this happens, just wipe it with some boiled linseed oil.
Thoughts on penofin? How do we treat a product that can be re-treated while maintaining the original colour?
Good question, I'll find out.
Where can you buy it? What brands should we look for?
Brouns and Co. Thx.
Online. Brouns & Co is a great starting point. But there is also Sage Restoration (Allbäck), Viking Sales (Ottosson), and Earth + Flax (Ottosson). All are great. I’ve preferred Ottosson personally though I haven’t tried Brouns & Co. yet! I’m happy to learn about them through this video
That!
ok
Brent, you said no cement. Are you saying to paint the whole house with linseed oil paint?
Loved the video BTW!!!
Yes! Why not? Thx.
@@BrentHull you said no cement? With regards to what? And why?
Can you use linseed paint over other paints?
You can but if you’re just painting over latex paint, there is no point really, as the wood still won’t be able breathe outward. Unless, you just prefer a 100% natural paint, which linseed paint is.
We did not. You have to get back to the raw wood to enjoy the benefits. Thx.
Linseed oil paint will adhere to other existing paints, but it will only perform as well as those. To get the full wicking properties, you are best off removing modern plastic paints first. Historic linseed paint or lime wash can be left and overpainted.
Ok, after watching the remainder of the video, the number of coats question was answered.
Thanks for watching!
flaxseed oil preserves humans too! drink flaxseed oil daily!
ok
Brent totally with you except the concrete aspect, I mean the Roman’s concrete is still around today.
Noted. Thx.
That was a completely different concrete from the product it is today.
@@BrounsCo well completely different isn't really accurate. it was a different recipe mainly they used what they had. They also apparently are much better at it than we are. I watched sometime a while back on it and I believe it was the limestone that melts and reseals the cracks and defects as it ages. pretty impressive
2/3 of a gallon for $170? Ouch. I’ll have to build a tiny house.
If the linseed oil paint lasts for several decades as opposed to modern paints, it may be worth it, at least for small jobs or maybe trim.
It spreads twice as far as regular paint and thus is about the cost of most high end paints. Thx.
Because you paint so thin, each tin covers more area than modern paints. So while each tin is more expensive, it can be cheaper than modern paints in total. It was for me.
Whoa… $175 a gallon. That’s some kinda paint.
It spreads twice as far. It's comparable to many premium paints. Thx.
Per finished sq ft no more expensive than BM
Whoa. Is this way to much to have to think about as a consumer? Now our paint is no longer protecting the wood, it's causing it to rot? Holy cow. Appreciate this discussion, but would be great if these issues were resolved with consensus scientific facts and data at an industry level? Gave you a thumbs up/
Discussions are occurring on this front at the scientific level. Michiel Brouns’s book is great for this. The National Park Service has also published scientific studies on linseed oil paint
@@KyleKavanaugh They both seem very credible, but the reality I am now facing is I am now confused about what to use on my boathouse in the spring :)
@@Laguna2013my vote would be Ottosson linseed paint from Viking Sales. Allbäck has the better reputation but Ottosson is a bit more user friendly. No need to mix in the Zinc Oxide. But this is absolutely the best investment to protect your exterior wood
@@KyleKavanaugh So do I understand corrrectly that this protocol would not involve a separate 'primer' ? Thanks!
Noted. Thanks for sharing.
This is a serious marketing push. I'm seeing stories/articles about linseed oil paint in lots of places.
Good. Thx.
Um we call it glazing too. 🤨
Ok. Thx.
Been using linseed oil paint on our Victorian house (UK) for several years, Would never use anything else for exterior woodwork.
Nice. Thx for sharing.
Nice!
Did you ever experienced any issues with mold or mildew on the painted surfaces?
@@koenraadprincen7212 No, and it is quite damp here at times. It also works fine straight onto oak and cedar for which modern paints aren't suitable. Also painted some new aluminium guttering over 5 years ago and it worked perfectly - although took several days to days to dry.
@@HowardRice Thanks!
Which make of paint do you use? Did the manufacturer add some biocides to the paint?
$175. for a quart. That'll really catch on. could probably just make your own.
It spreads further than traditional paint. FYI.
Sage Restoration and Viking Sales have offer lower prices comparable to high end exterior paints. Linseed paint also covers twice as much and lasts much, much longer. Indefinitely.
Let me know once you've done that and what your costs are!
In my experience, it was cheaper than modern paints because it spreads so thin. You have to compare the price per sqft/sqm painted. That said, it does take more time to paint, if you're counting that in dollars. You should also factor in the time before it needs repainting, which if done by professionals can be up to 30 years. You could also factor in the fact that it prevents the wood from rotting, unlike modern impermeable paints. So in total, it's a bargain, in my opinion. If done correctly, that must be said.
Linseed oil is organic and can be a medium for black mould to develop.
That's because of lack op preparation and the use of "too" raw linseed oil, see my answer elsewhere here.
Better linseed oil is required. A reputable supplier is necessary.
Linseed oil now goes through an extensive purification process and mixed with anti-fungal zinc oxide additive. Ottoson and Allbäck are great manufacturers
@@KyleKavanaugh Is there a reason why you are pushing Ottosson and Allback so heavily? Both have had major issues!
I used linseed oil paint from allback (sage restoration) when I restored our 1850s windows due to the historic accuracy. Everyone said I was crazy. It was a disaster after 9 months. Even with the zinc I could not get it to stop growing organic mildews, molds, ect. I was so disappointed.
The first signs of mold were probably small black dots...
There are several options to avoid this... those black dots need four things to grow and two of them are controllable:
1. Uncured linseed oil -> avoid the use of raw linseed oil (as primer or to dilute the paint) and use "pre cured oil", that's oil that has been sitting in a glass jar and exposed to light for about 6 months. Once and a while you open the cap to let some fresh air in.
2. Low pH level (rather acid environment) -> Raise the pH level of the bare wood by giving it first a lime wash, leave the lime (chalk) on the wood when dry and paint over it (chalk becomes transparant when oiled).
3. Moisture -> not controllable.
4. Temperature -> not controllable.
I have had very good results with the lime wash on exterior pine wood (outer walls of a shed).
Some companies - like Allback - will advise you to heat the wood above 60°C / 140°F to kill all the mold spores before painting it or even to heat up your paint while applying it.
But most commercial companies will add "real" fungicides to their paint to avoid these molds.
Thx for sharing. From my research the ingredients have to be top notch.
This sounds like the exception not the norm
I have heard Ottosson may be more mold resistant than Allback. I already have Allback, so that is what I will have to use.
@@debluetailfly The manufacturer has nothing to do with it.
The longer the oil remains uncured, the more chances for mold grow. That's why I avoid raw linseed oil and advise to use "pre cured oil" in the first layer (primer) or if you want to dilute the paint.
Linseed oil needs UV-light (and oxygen) to cure... so paint on sunny days.
When painting wood, there is no need for the paint to penetrate deep, 1/10th of an inch is more than enough.
The deeper the oil penetrates to more difficult the curing process (less access to UV light and oxygen). Curing oil expands, making it more difficult for the underlaying oil to cure.
But the lime wash is the most effective in my eyes.
Is it PFAS paint?
Tell us you didn't listen at all without telling us.
@@ThePolypam Watched the whole thing and listened carefully. I still have the same question about PFAS. Many paints contain PFAS. It is a valid question.
I'll find out. I don't believe so.
Our linseed oil paint does not contain PFAS, phthalates, VOCs or other nasties.
No, but some people can get a headache from painting all day inside. It's not harmful though. Good ventilation solves it, and speed up the drying anyway.
What about yellowing? One thing I dislike about traditional oil paint is that it yellows overtime, so your whites start to look like a smoker lived in your house for 40 years.
Linseed absolutely yellows.
It yellows a bit, but only when it doesn't get any light anymore, i.e. dark cellars.
@koenraadprincen7212 no, UV yellow it
@@toomanymarys7355 Not true, check the oil paintings in the art world... when paintings went into storage, the whites yellowed but became white again when exposed to natural light.
A lot of the time, at least on artistic painting, its the clear protective varnish that goes yellow. Unsure if house paint would be similar. Still cool to check out art restoration videos on UA-cam
Linseed oil WHITE paint will yellow over 24 months. Use only darker colors.
Only if you keep it away from daylight.
@ you mean like any surface inside your home? EXACTLY.
I just pulled some test samples out of a dark drawer... they have been there for 15 months.
They started as fully transparent and all are now straw yellow, the yellowness depends on the layer thickness and the pre-treatment of the oil (water washing, sun bleaching & aeration).
Now, I want to check how long it takes before the yellowness disappears... I'll keep you posted :-)
Ok. Thx.
Only if it doesn't get any or very low UV light.
Isn’t the downside of linseed oil is that it’s highly flammable?
Great question, I hope they answer you.
Yes, you need to be careful with the cleaning rags when these contain fresh paint, you need to dispose them in a closed metal bucket or dimple them in water.
Not in my experience.
Never leave rags soaked in linseed oil laying around; they are very prone to spontaneous combustion. But when you are using a brush and stretching the paint onto the surface, there is no problem with spontaneous combustion. Some who have worked with faux finishes use linseed oil glazes and use a lot of rags. I have known of some dumpster fires where they threw their rags. You can hang rags on a wire and let them totally dry out, and then throw them away. I have personally had a rag begin smoldering after going on a half hour lunch break. I threw it outside real quick. But again not a problem painting a house with linseed oil paint.
@debluetailfly thank you for writing this!
All this time and I assumed you were always using it.
Ha, am now.
Lindsey paint
ok
The answer to your question, Brent - products reintroduced from the past that make structures last longer are not used because they cost twice as much. With how quickly and thoughtlessly people replace items for something "new", who wants to invest in making something last longer than they will live to enjoy it?
True! Thanks so much.
The products cost twice as much, but they often last more than twice as long. So in a long-term perspective, they're cheaper. Problem is that we have lost that perspective, so we keep making dumb decisions that maybe cost less today but more in the long run. That's true on all levels of our society.
Making these paints is ez btw. Also a lot cheaper
Noted. THx.
And far more environmentally friendly and less polluting!
Gore-tex? More like Door-tex.
Haha. THx.
I beg you: it's spelled "LETS". What you have written is the contraction for let us, as in "that let us wood breathe." Please, fix the thumbnail.
Noted. Thx.
You might want to qualify this statement, by mentioning boiled linseed oil. Straight linseed is suseptible to spontaneous combustion...
ok.
Do you mean raw versus boiled? Rags in either can spontaniously combust - the oil itself does not.
Only under specific conditions. The only known spontaneous combustion of linseed oil has occurred in piles of soaked rags.
fine paints of Europe s terrible and over priced!
thx.
Those are urethane alkyd resin paints and are not vapor open, you can't compare them with pure linseed oil paints.
They are as plastic as paint can get. Equivalent to wrapping the timber in plastic or putting it in a tupperware box.
The Netherlands has AMAZING historic buildings and there is a huge effort to continue to build up to historic standards. US build quality is pure garbage.
Noted.