Fox Blocks Studs
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- When you want to hang a picture or attach anything to a Fox Blocks ICF wall use a stud finder. Not just any stud finder but the least costly one possible! The furring strips or studs in a Fox Blocks wall can hold a lot of weight as well. Watch this video to see how we use stud finders and which is easiest to use.
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How about the video on the stud strength. Like how kitchen cabinets would be installed.
Cool , thanks a quick trip to home hardware ...$7.99 perfect!!!
When installing cabinets and we know the layout before hanging sheetrock, like in a kitchen, we install plywood directly to the ICF wall in lieu of sheetrock and the same thickness. This makes hanging cabinets very easy.
Like the video shows we have "stud" finders that kind of work, so we often resort to a punch and move technique. As long as whatever you are hanging is larger than 8 inches (so as to cover your line of holes) start by punching a hole through the sheetrock and the icf about 2-1/4" deep. If you meet no resistance move horizontally an inch and repeat. You should find the plastic furring strip within 8". Then the other stirps are spaced 8 inches to either side (8" on center). Crude but it works, particularly for hanging permanent fixtures like cabinets.
fox blocks should put a small strip of aluminum foil on the back of the plastic clips so a metal-reflective detector will find it.
I’m surprised that some company hasn’t thought of imbedding a small wire in the flange which would be easily detectable.
A dewalt wall scanner works pretty desent
Thank you for this!
Thanks for all the effort you put into all your videos to better the industry! Fox Blocks are the best ICF I've used. Would you be able to do a video of installing a flanged window and the necessary flashing and sealing method against the fox buck? Our method goes as follows:
1: install tyvek flex wrap on the sill and extend up the jamb buck 6" on both sides using a j roller afterwards to ensure good adhesion with minimal wrinkles.
2: place horse shoe shims in the spots required by the window manufacturer and place so that the open end of the horse shoe is towards the outside so that water can escape.
3: using a high quality polyurethane sealant (such as Sika 221 or equivalent as they bond very aggressively to the EPS foam) caulk around the top and side flanges completely and leave 2 or 3 2" gaps on the bottom flange so that water can escape.
4: set window in the opening, level and plumb and fasten it to the fox buck using low profile wafer head screws.
5: tool the sealant around flange against foam and seam between fox buck and fox block icf. Also covering the screw heads in the process.
6: unfortunately, local code requires peel and stick around the outside of the flange, so we install that after the sealant had set up. Otherwise I think I would not use it as it is just another layer to trap water behind, trying to force it behind the EPS/window flange/sealant. Especially if there are any wrinkles. We are using the EPS foam as the air barrier in lieu of tyvek/typar and I trust a good polyurethane sealant will stand up long term by itself and the fact that there is no wood to rot in this wall assembly.
7: cut a reglet/10° kerf cut above the head flashing and install a custom bent piece of flashing to counter flash the head flange or peel and stick.
8: seal inside the window R.O. with low expanding foam or backer rod and polyurethane sealant.
Note: we slope our fox buck sill 2° which is approximately 7/16" over 11 1/4"(6" core ICF)
Let me know if you would change anything in these steps. I haven't had much success with getting a response back from window manufacturers as they aren't familiar with foam bucks. Most of them like the window to be sealed to the concrete core, and while I will admit that that's the best way as far sealing against hurricane force winds and rain, it doesn't work out that well in cold places in Canada as an exposed concrete core is a huge thermal inefficiency. We also order our windows so that the glazing is close to the center of the wall cavity as windows are 22% more energy efficient in the center of the wall as opposed to flush with the outside door to being closer to the indoor temperature and less wind washing. All Weather windows and doors manufacture what they call an "Arctic Jamb" so it has a sloped PVC apron (exterior) and PVC jamb extension on the inside and outside of the glazing and can build them as deep as you want.
Hi Aaron
Doing a full window detailing video is on my list. Unfortunately every time I get to a project they already have windows in place or they were delayed. Getting these 'real' videos are more difficult than staging a video because you are always working with crews that do not necessarily follow code or do things as they should be done. I like how you are thinking through the process of flashing you flange mount window.
I am getting ready to do a house out of Fox Blocks and think liquid flashing would be better than any tape, due to tape not holding as well to foam.
@@FoxblocksICF
I thought the studs/attachment points were marked by the word FOXBLOCKS on the foam itself?
They are Mark, very clearly, but after Sheetrock and paint the markings are covered.
the screw finder is dependent on the drywall installers aim. What if the screw is not screwed into the plastic web? Then you'll miss too. Hopefully the stud finder manufacturers are working on one that can sense plastic runners as well as wood.
Ive had a lot of trouble with the stanley
Thank you !
Thanks for the time and efforts you put for others.
Are there studs in the corner?
What if you are using plaster instead of sheet rock? Any recommendations for finding studs in that situation?
jimmyk , now I want to find a plaster wall to try to figure it out. Anyone out there have a solution?
@@FoxblocksICF measure from your known corners
An absolutely useless demonstration without drywall!