@@silverzales1980 45% vinegar will most certainly dissolve metals deposits. Whether they be calcium, magnesium, sodium, potassium, etc. Vinegar is a weak acid, but even at common concentrations it would work slowly. Distilled white vinegar sold for consumption is typically from 3-5% acetic acid. "Cleaning vinegar" has been around many years and is not meant for eating. It typically is sold @ 6% acetic acid concentration. That one percent difference makes a huge impact in cleaning effectiveness. Now, places like Lowes and Home Depot are selling 45% strength acetic acid.
@@camf33 vinegar doesn’t work, now take your own time and do your own research comparing vinegar vs Muriatic acid. I’m not here to show you the way, I’m not Peter Frampton.... do your own research
There's no special tool to remove the stand. It should be somewhat easy to unscrew because it is only hand-tightened. I'd use the curves of the base to get better torque when unscrewing it, like a spigot handle
Have you had a shortage of salt cells? I recently bought the entire Hayward 15W salt system, but was thinking of buying an additional salt cell just to have when this one finally stops making chlorine gas.
I have a couple of questions - You said 2/3 water to 1/3 acid, but how much water are you using? 2) Can you pour the acid into the pool if it is fiberglass? Normally if I have to add muriatic acid to the pool it has to be dry acid.
It takes about 4.5 cups of the water/acid solution to fill up the cell and cover the blades. Yes, you can pour the acid solution into a fiberglass pool. I would do that while the pump is running. Pour it near a return jet.
If you have an inground pool and the equipment is higher than the water level of the pool, you do not need to close the valves when removing the cell. You would just turn the pump off and remove the cell. The valves would need to be closed if you have an above ground pool or if you have an inground pool where the equipment is located lower than the water level. The reason for that is gravity. The water would rush out if you didn't close the valves.
Thank you! I was pretty sure that was the case but being a new pool owner and having never cleaned the cell myself I wasn’t 100% sure. Your tutorial was perfect and saved us some money doing it ourselves. Didn’t want to call the pool guys to clean it when we’ll be closing the pool in a few more weeks anyway.
Inyo Pools have two videos on cleaning salt cells. One video states, use 2 parts water and 1 part muratic acid. The other states, use 4 parts water and 1 part muratic acid. Which one is correct? 2 to 1 or 4 to 1?
@@Inyopools Odd. Hayward states otherwise - "If a high pressure hose does not remove the majority of deposits, then use a mild acid wash. Be sure to wear rubber gloves and appropriate eye protection. In a clean plastic container, mix a 4:1 solution of water to muriatic acid (one gallon of water to one quart of acid). Caution: ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER - NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID."
You can, but it is usually optional for inground pools. When you break the air seal of your plumbing by unscrewing the salt cell or opening the filter's relief valve, most water should flush out of the system. The water flush happens because most inground pool equipment pads are installed above the pool's waterline. If the equipment is below the waterline, like it is with most above-ground pools, you would need to close off the lines before removing the cell.
Hm, didn't see much buildup, and it didn't bubble when I cleaned it. But the inspect salt cell light has been on and the chlorine levels have been abysmal. The plates look pretty corroded, guess that means I'll have to replace my salt cell?
@jaredhardegree8377 In Canada, they cost roughly 800-900$ and can last as little as 2 years if not properly maintained. If your pool chemistry is correct, have good flow and reset the panel multiple times, 100% your t-cell either needs to cleaned or replaced.
The stand does not come with salt cell. We carry a stand for the Aquarite T-Cells. The part number is 2804-33. Here is a link to the product. www.inyopools.com/Products/07501352032927.htm Let me know if you have a different style cell.
We should have mentioned that. Once the pump is off, you could either open the air relief valve on the filter tank to drain the water or you could partially turn the nut until you hear air entering the system. The pipes will drain after that. That would work for inground pools. Above ground pools would require that valves be closed so that the pool water doesn't keep draining while you remove the cell.
The scaling is normal calcium buildup, it leaches out from the pool plaster and sticks to the metal plates during electrolysis. More so in new pools....
If you don't have the stand, you'll have to fill the bucket enough so that the cell is almost covered. Keep the cord and connection out of the acid/water mix.
@@Inyopools I don't wanna soak the control panel though.. seems like it shouldn't be covered in acid lol. I just pushed it really hard onto the bottom of the bucket and sat there for 10 mins. Then ordered a cap and o ring to thread on the bottom for next time!
Hayward specifically mentions to put the cell with the cord DOWN on the stand on their website for cell clearning instructions, but don't really see how that would make any difference.
The is from the maintenance portion of the AquaRite owner's manual. I don't see anything regarding cord placement. They may have changed the verbiage at some point. "Mild Acid Washing: Use only in severe cases where flushing and scraping will not remove the majority of deposits. To acid wash, turn off power to Aqua Rite. Remove cell from piping. In a clean plastic container, mix a 4:1 solution of water to muriatic acid (one gallon of water to one quart of muriatic acid). ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER - NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID. Be sure to wear rubber gloves and appropriate eye protection. The level of the solution in the container should just reach the top of the cell so that the wire harness compartment is NOT submerged. It may be helpful to coil the wiring before immersing the cell. The cell should soak for a few minutes and then rinse with a high pressure garden hose. If any deposits are still visible, repeat soaking and rinsing. Replace cell and inspect again periodically."
@@Inyopools this is from the Hayward website for step 5 of their "How to Clean Your Hayward Salt Chlorinator Turbo Cell:" procedure Fasten the Turbo Cell to Cell Cleaning Stand with the cord side down. Before filling the Turbo Cell with a muriatic acid solution, place a container underneath to avoid any spills. Fill the Turbo Cell to the top with the solution and let soak for 15 minutes. Empty the Turbo Cell and inspect. If clean, rinse with a hose and reinstall. If there are still deposits after soaking, repeat the soaking procedure until clean. The water/muriatic acid mixture can be stored for later use or it can be disposed of. Follow the chemical manufacturer’s recommendations when storing or disposing of the water/acid solution.
Not so much HCl (muriatic). More so Sulfuric acid (anything over 50% concentrated). Most muriatic is 35% and vents off plenty of HCl gas with or without adding water. And it does choke the puke out of you. Should always wear chemical goggles and rubber (acid resistant) chemical gloves when handling any of it.
If this is an inground pool and the pump, cell, and filter are installed above the waterline of the pool, water will not pour out of the pool. If this is an above ground pool, you should plug the skimmer inlet and return jet before servicing your equipment
If it is still generating chlorine and there is no scale build-up, I'd leave it alone. Do you add anything else to the water that helps prevent scale build-up? A lower pH will help and there are also other chemicals that help prevent that.
I guess I just have good water here. Don’t really add anything other than occasional shock to the pool. We do have a motorized cover that is kept closed when pool is not in use. Thanks for the video and the response!
What this doesn’t show is how to make sure that no water comes gushing out. There is no way by turning off the pool that stops the water and the water is dry right there.
Most of the water will drain back to the pool once you start to loosen the nut on the salt cell. However, you can open up the air bleed on the filter after the pump is turned off. That will drain most of the water from the pipes. This is assuming we are talking about an inground pool.
You started off by showing the bad side and then you ended by showing the other side. I’ve never seen mine that bad. I am curious to see the same side before and after.
Both sides of the dirty cell were caked up with that scale. Afterwards, both sides were completely clean. The reason it got so bad was because the pH level ran high for several weeks. The cell stays much cleaner if you keep the pH level between 7.4-7.6. A product called Scale Free by Natural Chemistry or Magenta Stuff by Jacks Magic will also help keep the cell clean.
Need to do a 4:1 ratio of water to acid and the cord side is supposed to be down. This is according to the Hayward website: Turn off the power to the system and deactivate the pool pump before removing the Turbo Cell. Remove the Turbo Cell. Once removed, look through the cell and inspect for scale formation (light colored crusty or flaky deposits) on the plates and for debris that is caught on the plates. If no deposits are visible, reinstall the cell. If deposits are seen, use a high pressure garden hose to flush the scale off. If a high pressure hose does not remove the majority of deposits, then use a mild acid wash. Be sure to wear rubber gloves and appropriate eye protection. In a clean plastic container, mix a 4:1 solution of water to muriatic acid (one gallon of water to one quart of acid). Caution: ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER - NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID. Fasten the Turbo Cell to Cell Cleaning Stand with the cord side down. Before filling Turbo Cell with muriatic acid solution, place a container underneath to avoid any spills. Fill the Turbo Cell to the top with the solution and let soak for 15 minutes. Empty the Turbo Cell and inspect. If clean, rinse with hose and reinstall. If there are still deposits after soaking, repeat the soaking procedure until clean. The water/muriatic acid mixture can be stored for later use or it can be disposed of. Follow the chemical manufacturer’s recommendations when storing or disposing the water/acid solution. Reinstall the Turbo Cell. Press the small diagnostic button next to the display for 3 seconds to stop the flashing Inspect Cell LED and reset the countdown timer for another 500 operational hours.
No, you're doing just fine. We're using a less harmful muriatic acid formula called Acid Magic. A link to Acid Magic is listed in the description. However, if you use the standard muriatic acid formula, you need the extra gear.
Wear protective equipment people! I may be a little extreme, but when I handle this stuff I look like Walter White with my respirator, glasses and elbow-length gloves.
3 things that would improve this video: 1) if using a bucket for acid solution, make sure the whole section where the electronics are (where the cord goes in) are not submerged, as the cover over the electronics is not water tight; 2) worth mentioning that you add acid to water and never water to acid, when mixing the 2 parts water and 1 part acid; and 3) it's important to clean the white nub that detects the salt level. I'm still looking for the right way to clean that white nub, as my salt level is all over the place.
We haven't seen issues with pouring the solution into the pool. Another method would be to neutralize the acid solution with baking soda or soda ash before pouring it into the pool. If you need other options, check with local regulations regarding chemical disposal.
Thanks for the vid! Does it matter which way the cell is reinstalled? thanks
It does not matter which way the cell is reinstalled.
Great video. I will be doing this tomorrow. Appreciate it!
Good luck!
Feel more comfortable with the vinegar approach.. will it still be 1/3 on the ppm?
Only if it's the super concentrated vinegar you can buy at Home Depot and Lowe's. I believe it's 50%? Otherwise, most muriatic is 35% HCl.
Vinegar will not work
@@silverzales1980 45% vinegar will most certainly dissolve metals deposits. Whether they be calcium, magnesium, sodium, potassium, etc. Vinegar is a weak acid, but even at common concentrations it would work slowly. Distilled white vinegar sold for consumption is typically from 3-5% acetic acid. "Cleaning vinegar" has been around many years and is not meant for eating. It typically is sold @ 6% acetic acid concentration. That one percent difference makes a huge impact in cleaning effectiveness. Now, places like Lowes and Home Depot are selling 45% strength acetic acid.
@@silverzales1980 Care to explain why vinegar wouldn’t work.. in scientific terms please and not just ‘Vinegar won’t work’.
@@camf33 vinegar doesn’t work, now take your own time and do your own research comparing vinegar vs Muriatic acid. I’m not here to show you the way, I’m not Peter Frampton.... do your own research
Thanks for the how-to. Be sure and have eye protection, don't breath the fumes and wear gloves. That is acid. Stay safe!
Great video, easy to follow and it worked. Thanks
Is there a special tool to help get the gel stand off of the salt cell after cleaning?
There's no special tool to remove the stand. It should be somewhat easy to unscrew because it is only hand-tightened. I'd use the curves of the base to get better torque when unscrewing it, like a spigot handle
Should the salt cell be silent? I have a Heyward Turbo cell and I can hear something in side. Thanks
Have you had a shortage of salt cells? I recently bought the entire Hayward 15W salt system, but was thinking of buying an additional salt cell just to have when this one finally stops making chlorine gas.
So far, we have not had a shortage on cells.
I have a couple of questions - You said 2/3 water to 1/3 acid, but how much water are you using? 2) Can you pour the acid into the pool if it is fiberglass? Normally if I have to add muriatic acid to the pool it has to be dry acid.
It takes about 4.5 cups of the water/acid solution to fill up the cell and cover the blades. Yes, you can pour the acid solution into a fiberglass pool. I would do that while the pump is running. Pour it near a return jet.
Having a lil trouble loosing up the bottom part im using a strap wrench and or a channel lock i got the top part loosened
Be sure you are going in the correct direction (COUNTER-clockwise, as you are looking at the top of the union).
@@Inyopools it’s taking care of all cleaned and put back thanks
What can be done to extend the cell life, if anything... other than cleaning?
I for one usually turns the cell off while fresh salt is being dissolved in the pool, for 24 hours.
Do the water valves need to be closed before removing the cell or just turn the pump off?
If you have an inground pool and the equipment is higher than the water level of the pool, you do not need to close the valves when removing the cell. You would just turn the pump off and remove the cell. The valves would need to be closed if you have an above ground pool or if you have an inground pool where the equipment is located lower than the water level. The reason for that is gravity. The water would rush out if you didn't close the valves.
Thank you! I was pretty sure that was the case but being a new pool owner and having never cleaned the cell myself I wasn’t 100% sure. Your tutorial was perfect and saved us some money doing it ourselves. Didn’t want to call the pool guys to clean it when we’ll be closing the pool in a few more weeks anyway.
Thank you! But do you have tips to unscrew the cell? I’m alone and can’t get it off.
I'd recommend a large pair of channel locks or a strap wrench to help loosen the nuts.
Great video, thanks so much for sharing,
What does it mean if silver part is turning brown and some places not all but just in some places what does that mean
Inyo Pools have two videos on cleaning salt cells. One video states, use 2 parts water and 1 part muratic acid. The other states, use 4 parts water and 1 part muratic acid. Which one is correct? 2 to 1 or 4 to 1?
The directions from Hayward state 2 to 1. So go with this video :)
@@Inyopools Odd. Hayward states otherwise - "If a high pressure hose does not remove the majority of deposits, then use a mild acid wash. Be sure to wear rubber gloves and appropriate eye protection. In a clean plastic container, mix a 4:1 solution of water to muriatic acid (one gallon of water to one quart of acid).
Caution: ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER - NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID."
is salt cell fine for plaster pools?
Do you need to shut off any valves for water
You can, but it is usually optional for inground pools. When you break the air seal of your plumbing by unscrewing the salt cell or opening the filter's relief valve, most water should flush out of the system. The water flush happens because most inground pool equipment pads are installed above the pool's waterline.
If the equipment is below the waterline, like it is with most above-ground pools, you would need to close off the lines before removing the cell.
Hm, didn't see much buildup, and it didn't bubble when I cleaned it. But the inspect salt cell light has been on and the chlorine levels have been abysmal. The plates look pretty corroded, guess that means I'll have to replace my salt cell?
Yeah, they don't last long if you don't clean them atleast once a year.
@@COJred1 wouldn't know if they were maintained or not, I just started working there hahahah.
@jaredhardegree8377 In Canada, they cost roughly 800-900$ and can last as little as 2 years if not properly maintained. If your pool chemistry is correct, have good flow and reset the panel multiple times, 100% your t-cell either needs to cleaned or replaced.
@@COJred1 yeah, I've since replaced it, and it's working now. Wasn't hard to do, either, just expensive.
Thanks for great lesson much appreciated! Question where can you get a salt cell stand? Does it come with? If not how much?
The stand does not come with salt cell. We carry a stand for the Aquarite T-Cells. The part number is 2804-33. Here is a link to the product. www.inyopools.com/Products/07501352032927.htm
Let me know if you have a different style cell.
Great vid but it's missing what to do before the cell is unscrewed from the line. If I just unscrewed it water would gush out.
We should have mentioned that. Once the pump is off, you could either open the air relief valve on the filter tank to drain the water or you could partially turn the nut until you hear air entering the system. The pipes will drain after that. That would work for inground pools. Above ground pools would require that valves be closed so that the pool water doesn't keep draining while you remove the cell.
The scaling is normal calcium buildup, it leaches out from the pool plaster and sticks to the metal plates during electrolysis. More so in new pools....
Scaling occurs in gunite, fiberglass, and vinyl liner pools, not only in plaster pools.
@@Inyopools Yep, most water has a good bit of calcium in it to start with and these cells seem to be pretty good at getting it out.
What size over sized wrench did you use?
It's the Channellock 16-1/2" tongue and groove plier.
@@Inyopools thank you!
I use a strap wrench. The rubber strap is easier on the plastic.
Pipe wrench works the best very good grip
I don't have a stand. How do you keep the solution from just coming out the bottom in a bucket?
If you don't have the stand, you'll have to fill the bucket enough so that the cell is almost covered. Keep the cord and connection out of the acid/water mix.
@@Inyopools I don't wanna soak the control panel though.. seems like it shouldn't be covered in acid lol. I just pushed it really hard onto the bottom of the bucket and sat there for 10 mins. Then ordered a cap and o ring to thread on the bottom for next time!
Can vinegar be used also?
You can use white distilled vinegar. It doesn't work as quick as muriatic acid. The vinegar could take several hours vs a few minutes with the acid.
@@Inyopools but your salt cell will last a lot longer... 2 parts water 1 part acid is way too agressive, use 4:1
No. Thank you. It worked like a charm
Where can I buy that cell stand ?
Here is a link to the stand used in the video. www.inyopools.com/Products/07501352032927.htm
Amazon for $11
How to increase pressure in the skimmer
Hayward specifically mentions to put the cell with the cord DOWN on the stand on their website for cell clearning instructions, but don't really see how that would make any difference.
The is from the maintenance portion of the AquaRite owner's manual. I don't see anything regarding cord placement. They may have changed the verbiage at some point.
"Mild Acid Washing: Use only in severe cases where flushing and scraping will not
remove the majority of deposits. To acid wash, turn off power to Aqua Rite. Remove cell from piping. In a clean plastic container, mix a 4:1 solution of water to muriatic acid (one gallon of water to one quart of muriatic acid). ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER - NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID. Be sure to wear rubber gloves and appropriate eye protection. The level of the solution in the container should just reach the top of the cell so that the wire harness compartment is NOT submerged. It may be helpful to coil the wiring before immersing the cell. The cell should soak for a few minutes and then rinse with a high pressure garden hose. If any deposits are still visible, repeat soaking and rinsing. Replace cell and inspect again periodically."
@@Inyopools this is from the Hayward website for step 5 of their "How to Clean Your Hayward Salt Chlorinator Turbo Cell:" procedure
Fasten the Turbo Cell to Cell Cleaning Stand with the cord side down. Before filling the Turbo Cell with a muriatic acid solution, place a container underneath to avoid any spills. Fill the Turbo Cell to the top with the solution and let soak for 15 minutes. Empty the Turbo Cell and inspect. If clean, rinse with a hose and reinstall. If there are still deposits after soaking, repeat the soaking procedure until clean. The water/muriatic acid mixture can be stored for later use or it can be disposed of. Follow the chemical manufacturer’s recommendations when storing or disposing of the water/acid solution.
It's important to add the acid to water and not the other way around. Adding water to acid is dangerous.
Not so much HCl (muriatic). More so Sulfuric acid (anything over 50% concentrated). Most muriatic is 35% and vents off plenty of HCl gas with or without adding water. And it does choke the puke out of you. Should always wear chemical goggles and rubber (acid resistant) chemical gloves when handling any of it.
Would water come out if the pump is shut off? I am concerned that if i take it off all the water will start coming out like a flood!
If this is an inground pool and the pump, cell, and filter are installed above the waterline of the pool, water will not pour out of the pool. If this is an above ground pool, you should plug the skimmer inlet and return jet before servicing your equipment
I have an inground pool and my pump filter is down a hill some…. Will all the water come rushing out ??
2/3 of water? How much of muratic acid?
It would be approximately 1.5 cups of muriatic acid.
Thank you!
You're welcome, Angie!
I have a cell for 10 yrs+ that I have never cleaned. I see no calcium buildup. My cell looks a slight brown tint. Do I need to clean my cell?
If it is still generating chlorine and there is no scale build-up, I'd leave it alone. Do you add anything else to the water that helps prevent scale build-up? A lower pH will help and there are also other chemicals that help prevent that.
I guess I just have good water here. Don’t really add anything other than occasional shock to the pool. We do have a motorized cover that is kept closed when pool is not in use. Thanks for the video and the response!
Where do you live? In Texas we have notoriously hard water but in Chicago we had softer water.
Good
Thank you
You're welcome!
Excellent
Thank you so much 😀
i couldn't get mine loosened but found a specialty wrench just for this for $10 on amazon
Is it a special wrench to loosen the salt cell from the cleaning stand? If so, what is it called please
Can I use bleach instead of muriatic acid? Thanks!
No, you can't use bleach. However, you can use white vinegar.
What this doesn’t show is how to make sure that no water comes gushing out. There is no way by turning off the pool that stops the water and the water is dry right there.
Most of the water will drain back to the pool once you start to loosen the nut on the salt cell. However, you can open up the air bleed on the filter after the pump is turned off. That will drain most of the water from the pipes. This is assuming we are talking about an inground pool.
You started off by showing the bad side and then you ended by showing the other side. I’ve never seen mine that bad. I am curious to see the same side before and after.
Both sides of the dirty cell were caked up with that scale. Afterwards, both sides were completely clean. The reason it got so bad was because the pH level ran high for several weeks. The cell stays much cleaner if you keep the pH level between 7.4-7.6. A product called Scale Free by Natural Chemistry or Magenta Stuff by Jacks Magic will also help keep the cell clean.
What was the name of the acid?
Muriatic acid.
I cleaned mine like this. It still says “inspect cell”
How old is the cell? If the correct cell size is selected on the control unit and the cell is 3+ years old, you likely need to replace the cell.
Had mine for 7 years and its NEVER looked like that OR cleaned like that ( will all the bubbles n frizzing)
Need to do a 4:1 ratio of water to acid and the cord side is supposed to be down. This is according to the Hayward website:
Turn off the power to the system and deactivate the pool pump before removing the Turbo Cell.
Remove the Turbo Cell. Once removed, look through the cell and inspect for scale formation (light colored crusty or flaky deposits) on the plates and for debris that is caught on the plates. If no deposits are visible, reinstall the cell.
If deposits are seen, use a high pressure garden hose to flush the scale off.
If a high pressure hose does not remove the majority of deposits, then use a mild acid wash. Be sure to wear rubber gloves and appropriate eye protection. In a clean plastic container, mix a 4:1 solution of water to muriatic acid (one gallon of water to one quart of acid). Caution: ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER - NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID.
Fasten the Turbo Cell to Cell Cleaning Stand with the cord side down. Before filling Turbo Cell with muriatic acid solution, place a container underneath to avoid any spills. Fill the Turbo Cell to the top with the solution and let soak for 15 minutes. Empty the Turbo Cell and inspect. If clean, rinse with hose and reinstall. If there are still deposits after soaking, repeat the soaking procedure until clean. The water/muriatic acid mixture can be stored for later use or it can be disposed of. Follow the chemical manufacturer’s recommendations when storing or disposing the water/acid solution.
Reinstall the Turbo Cell. Press the small diagnostic button next to the display for 3 seconds to stop the flashing Inspect Cell LED and reset the countdown timer for another 500 operational hours.
Always add acid to water. It's important that he filled the container with the water part first, never put the acid in first.
Its funny, I just a different saying that the Salt cell should be threaded to the stand with the cord on the bottom. ???
The cell part
I do this with those giant rubber gloves, a mask, and safety goggles. Am I crazy?
No, you're doing just fine. We're using a less harmful muriatic acid formula called Acid Magic. A link to Acid Magic is listed in the description. However, if you use the standard muriatic acid formula, you need the extra gear.
Wear protective equipment people! I may be a little extreme, but when I handle this stuff I look like Walter White with my respirator, glasses and elbow-length gloves.
Shouldn’t use channel
Locks on a cell
Should be hand tightened,
Two to three months? Wow, I haven't cleaned mine in three years, guess it's time.
They are not nuts they are called unions
3 things that would improve this video: 1) if using a bucket for acid solution, make sure the whole section where the electronics are (where the cord goes in) are not submerged, as the cover over the electronics is not water tight; 2) worth mentioning that you add acid to water and never water to acid, when mixing the 2 parts water and 1 part acid; and 3) it's important to clean the white nub that detects the salt level. I'm still looking for the right way to clean that white nub, as my salt level is all over the place.
Do as you oughter
Add acid to water
Another site said not to pour the solution back in the pool because of all the buildup.
Comments?
We haven't seen issues with pouring the solution into the pool. Another method would be to neutralize the acid solution with baking soda or soda ash before pouring it into the pool. If you need other options, check with local regulations regarding chemical disposal.
Pouring the acid in your pool will lower your ph bro
Not a good idea to pour that calcium solution into the pool.
Thank you that’s what I said, the acid will lower your ph
unless you need your ph lowered lol
That amount of acid is so small it shouldn't effect the pool
Oh boy... I've had my cell for 10 years and have never done a 2 parts water 1 part acid mix. Just 100% acid. Never knew that's what I had to do. :(
You are doing something right if the cell has lasted 10 years. That's great.
@@Inyopools Hehe.. thx, but I'm gonna start mixing with water going forward. :(
Smart to clean your cell on top of natural stone deck and then pore back into your pool. Dumb!