what i like about your style is that you do not act the fool..or do idiot yelling or click baiting..your quiet, common sensical way of explaining the engine or whatever you are working on is easy to understand or clarifies questions..so thank you..and will repeat you surely deserve more subs...thanks
Thanks! I really just like getting the work done, and not jacking around... seems to be popular so far the channel is getting a lot of subscribers and more and more views everyday.
This was really great! In all my years I never had to mess with this and now I feel like an expert. My diaphragm is bad so I can’t wait to fix it and see how my engine responds. So, I have a vacuum leak and no advance off idle. I’ve been struggling with this issue for months and never thought about a bad diaphragm! Thanks!!!
Great video and very thorough explanation on that limiter arm. Now I feel like I know more of how it works now. Just ordered me a hand vacuum pump to test my vacuum advance with. This is the first video I have come across that explains the adjustable canister screw and how to tune with it.
This video is accurate and complete enough that I am not going to try to do my own video on this subject, There is not anything to improve on, not without specialty distributor test equipment that is yester-decade old school in design Unless a person is setting up a race engine, this is an excellent video Kudos!
Stumbled across your channel a couple of days ago and do look forward to your new videos. Impressed how you explain in detail what you are doing and going to be doing. The truck looks like an old workhorse should. Would turn heads if I was driving it here in sunny Scotland. Keep up the excellent content.
Bear in mind the 360 pistons dont come to the top of the bore.They stop about 3/8 of an inch from the top which is why they are such a low compression engine.. Also the deck height is about 1/16 shorter than a standard 352/390 block. So say you go ahead and put 390 rods and pistons in .. Well then you will need to double up the copper shim head gaskets and shave a little off the top of the pistons and then we had to tighten the aluminum duel quad intake up to the heads first then tighten and torque the head bolts.. Never had any leaks or blown head gaskets and put over 80,000 miles on the motor,,she was quite happy.. Alternative is to machine a little off the mating surface of the intake manifold but then its not gonna be good for a 390,406,410,427,428 which is ultimatly what you want anyhow.. Run that 360 till shes spent then get you a regular FE.. 360 361 and 391 are FE engines but they are truck motors.. now i will tell you the 360 rods are super strong and same length as 390 rods.. My dad was a professional race engine builder and he said after the extreme abuse he put his built 360 thru that he feld very confident that if you bead blasted those rods you could put any amount of compression and boost you ever want and never bend or break those rods.Ours was a 69 360 too.
My plan is to swap in a 390 crank, with 390 rods, in combination with the 360 pistons. Then convert to a 4bbl "T" manifold (since I bought those parts already).. and see how much that wakes it up. I don't have any experience with that combination, but the published info looks like it should make great compression and all go together without much machine work. Good to know you have good experience
Totally identify with this. I just put one of these adjustable vacuum advances on my 390. I spent an hour trying to use a little mirror to read the numbers on my reman distributor with no success. I finally guessed and did the 3-1/2 turns. I used the non ported vacuum line port to test it. At the initial setting, the engine wanted to die when I started to connect the line. I ended up backing that thing out about 6 or 7 turns before it would idle correctly, which was well past the recommended adjustment for any of the Ford distributors. In essence, you might as well throw out the guide and do it by ear. If you use your non ported vacuum line, you will get it in the ballpark because you have full vacuum at idle on your non ported connection.
Very good and easy to understand what to do. Other videos I have watched showed the same thing but maybe more than need on some issues not enough on others. Liked the numbers at the end. I fully understand what to do now. I will be looking for more videos from you.
Lotsa variables in an engine even if built identical. You have great base line values . Next you tune it to maximize your fuel octane . You might add a little here subtract a little there in the timing!. I prefer pulling vacuum advance hose off, plugging the hose with a screw then setting maximum centrifugal advance and 3 to 3.5k rpm and letting idle advance stay wherever it lands,then hook vacuum back up. Afterward you tune your adjustble vacuum advance again to maximize whatever your fuel octane is.you engine may use more or less...360 are onown to be low compression. That being said ,low compression engine can often times benefit from slightly higher ignition advance. But you sticking to stock values is always the safest course to take!
Thank you for showing a great video. I never knew a good way to go about it til now. I'm going to use your rules of thumb just to try it. I replaced mine about 4 months ago and never checked timing. The motor does not like getting over 4300 rpm and never has. I'll be trying 5.25 turns out first after running in all the way in. Thanks
from reading my 1969 ford Manuel for 390 GT IN A MUSTANG WITH AUTO TRANS 4BBL 10.5:1 COMPRESSION. total timing should be no more than 34*. and no less than 25.5*. base timing for a lot of fords is 6* ,12* was rare. peak power on a FE -FT IS 38* BUT for safety and consistency tuners will pull 4*-6* from peak so 32*-34*. so WITH 24*mechanical +6*base =30*total about right for today's gas on low compression engine. best cruising is 50*-52*. the vacuum advance was was 18*-25* at 20 hg IN THE MANUEL. to days gas burns faster and has a slightly lower octane. in 1970 octane was at its peak around 90-92 for regular and 100 for premium under the RON METHOD OF OCTANE. WE NOW USE MON+RON/2. SO 100= PREMIUM WOLD BE 96-94 MON+RON/2 AND REGULAR WOLD BE 88-86 RON+MON/2 SO LESS TIMING TOTAL ABOUT 5*10* BUT NOT ALL WAYS. IF YOU LIVE IN A STATE WITH REFORMULATED GAS YOU NEED LESS TOTAL AS IT BURNS FASTER. COMPRESSION EFFECTS TOTAL TIMING AND A SMALL DEGREE CAM BUT THE BIG ONE IS COMBUSTION CHAMBER, BORE TO STROKE AS WELL AS ROD RATIO. SO WITH BASE TIMING AT 6* AND A MECHANICAL OF 24* FOR A TOTAL OF 30. I WOLD USE USE 18*-20* VACUUM ADVANCE FOR A TOTAL ADVANCE PLUS VACUUM OF 48*-50* DEGREES. 60* IS TOO MUCH FOR TODAY'S FUEL. I SET MINE BY SETTING MIXTURE AT 1.5 TUNS OUT FROM LIGHT SEAT. AND THE IDEL SPEED SCREW SET SO THE SCREW IS JUST TOUCHING THE THROTTLE THAN THEN GIVE I 1 TURN TO JUST SLIGHTLY OPEN THE THROTTLE. BRING UP THE ENGINE TO OPERATING TEMP AND LET IT RUN FOR 30 MINUETS ADJUST TIMING WITH VACUUM HOSE DISCONNECTED AND PLUNGED FOR MAX VACUUM THEN RETARD TILL IT DROPS 1 HG THEN TAKE A READING WITH THE LIGHT. SAY IT IS 25* THEN YOU WILL SET THE BASE AT SAY 6*. THEN YOU WILL NEED 19* VACCUM ADVANCE TO GET 25* IDLE. THE TOTAL IS THE MOST CRITICAL SO YOU WILL NEED TO POSSIBLY USE DIFFERENT BASE TIMING AND OR MOD THE MECHANICAL. RUN NO MORE THAN 20* VACUUM ADVANCE WITH MANIFOLD VACUUM. HOPE THIS WAS A HELP. AND NOW YOU KNOW THE BEST SETTINGS FOR A FT-FE GIVE THIS TIME BY VACUUM A TRY! O YOU VIDEO WAS GOOD!!!!!
I undestand how a destributor works! I have the oe specs for all the ford dizzys. and vac advance can be as low as 9* to a max of 14* on boss 302. 390 gt is 19-25* vaccum advance at crank! Centrifical is 19.5*-28* @4800 rpm! Base timing is 6* btc for a total macanical of 25.5-34* @4800 rpm at crank! Vaccm advanc can add 19-25* at idel and cruse! So no it is not a max of 12*! Smog engens had as much as 30* vaccum advance! You need to do more reading!
Just did this on my Mustang and the only thing I can add here is that you can adjust the canister in real time. Start by capping nipple and take your base "mechanical only" reading. Mine was 16. Then run a vacuum line from *manifold* vacuum (not ported, which has no idle vacuum) to the canister and take a reading. Mine was 26 so the canister is adding 10 degrees from vacuum. Then do the allen wrench thing with the motor running to fine tune. When you are happy you can optionally switch back to ported vacuum if that was your original vacuum source.
You can’t switch between ported and manifold without making adjustments. The vacuum signal from each of them is entirely different at idle, just off idle and all the way until the throttle blades pass the ported vacuum hole in the barrel of the carb. At just off idle (which is where you cruise) ported vacuum is hanging around below 5 hg. That vacuum canister doesn’t even kick in until about 5 or 6 hg so you be getting zero vacuum advance if you’re connected to ported. If you’re connected to manifold you’ll get all of the advance that canister is set to give.
What adjustable vacuum advance is that? I need one for my 352. Bought a new aftermarket points distributor and the vacuum advance it came with pulls way too much timing. So much it'll cause the engine to stumble a bit on cold high idle.
It could if the vacuum canister is bad. The engine pulls a lot of vacuum at idle, causing an increase in timing. The additional advance in timing, does increase the idle speed. For the backfire I would check your wires (loose or broken), spark plugs, and firing order. Those are the 3 most common issues for backfiring once warmed up.
So the weights are restricted by the small springs. As the engine speeds up, so does the rotating speed of the rotor and the weights. As the speed increases the springs are no longer able to hold the weights back and the weights start to fly outwards, which moves / twists the rotor so it contracts the plug terminals sooner in the compression stroke, giving you a timing advance, since the engine likes more timing at higher RPM. Then inversely, as the engine slows back down, the springs are able to re-gain control over the weights again, and retard the timing back to your base timing. Hope this helps!
@@330_garage3 Thanks, installed a new distributor that was heard running from another engine and i still get the backfire in the exhaust so i think it is the push rods or cam down or valve problem now.
@@thorthunder3227 If its running and backfiring through the exhaust, I would guess a stuck exhaust valve or a burnt exhaust valve (common in the FE motors)
@@330_garage3 yes, i removed the valve cover only to find out no oil was going onto the rockers and i have not been able to fix it yet but i think the valves were sticking open or not closing due to lack of oil., swelling i guess on the stem.
hopefully this is what's causing my backfiring issues on my 300 six. if I'm very slow with acceleration, the advance moves but if I go any faster, the advance doesn't move.
Is this even correct? I thought the screw adjusted the amount of vacuum needed to pull the advance not how far it pulls it. Like if you have big cam that makes less than stock vacuum you loosen the advance screw so it takes less vacuum to achieve full advance?
Mechanical advance, is the distributor spinning at a faster RPM as the engine spins faster, then some weights inside the distributor start to move outward, which causes the spark to happen sooner in the combustion cycle. You generally want the timing to be more advanced as the engine speeds up for better performance and fuel efficiency through the RPM range.
There is a way easier way to test the vacume canister lol.. take it off and push the lever in now hold your thumb over the nipple .. if the lever stays in its good if it extends while your thumbs on the nipple its bad.. easy peasy.
Well I hate to admit this. I'm 73, and have turned wrenches most of them years. I never knew about the adjustment screw inside the diaphragm. Funny cause I should of known. I used to fool other kids into thinking I camed the motor by just unhooking the vacuum advance and then when it idles, it would lope a little making other kids think I was bad a**/LOL. I see by the rotation of the distributor that the timing chain is stretched and has been made up for it by rotating the distributor. Now I know most call for about eight to ten degrees and your coming up with a much higher number. What gives? I would really like to know
You are an excellent teacher. You are calm, patient, and take the time to explain your work. I enjoy your videos very much. Keep up the good work!
what i like about your style is that you do not act the fool..or do idiot yelling or click baiting..your quiet, common sensical way of explaining the engine or whatever you are working on is easy to understand or clarifies questions..so thank you..and will repeat you surely deserve more subs...thanks
Thanks! I really just like getting the work done, and not jacking around... seems to be popular so far the channel is getting a lot of subscribers and more and more views everyday.
This was really great! In all my years I never had to mess with this and now I feel like an expert. My diaphragm is bad so I can’t wait to fix it and see how my engine responds. So, I have a vacuum leak and no advance off idle. I’ve been struggling with this issue for months and never thought about a bad diaphragm! Thanks!!!
Does your vehicle lean out off idle ? I’m having that issue
@@davidferraro9356 I had to change my power valve to compensate for that. I think it is supposed to be half your idle vacuum number.
Great video and very thorough explanation on that limiter arm. Now I feel like I know more of how it works now. Just ordered me a hand vacuum pump to test my vacuum advance with. This is the first video I have come across that explains the adjustable canister screw and how to tune with it.
Man that was the best explanation I’ve heard. Thanks for teaching us fuel injection guys…😂 I’m just trying to learn all this with my old 72 F100.
Dude,you better get to Vegas or buy a lottery ticket! 50+ years of FEing and I have never failed to drop that "C" clip!
Wow I had no idea what a vaccuum advance was or even did. I get the name of it but seeing the visuals of how it operates I had no clue. Pretty neat.
This video is accurate and complete enough that I am not going to try to do my own video on this subject, There is not anything to improve on, not without specialty distributor test equipment that is yester-decade old school in design Unless a person is setting up a race engine, this is an excellent video Kudos!
Stumbled across your channel a couple of days ago and do look forward to your new videos. Impressed how you explain in detail what you are doing and going to be doing.
The truck looks like an old workhorse should. Would turn heads if I was driving it here in sunny Scotland.
Keep up the excellent content.
Excellent video! Well-filmed, and clearly explained. I learned a lot!
Very good video on vacum cannister adjustments and timming sequence.will use this today!
Bear in mind the 360 pistons dont come to the top of the bore.They stop about 3/8 of an inch from the top which is why they are such a low compression engine.. Also the deck height is about 1/16 shorter than a standard 352/390 block. So say you go ahead and put 390 rods and pistons in .. Well then you will need to double up the copper shim head gaskets and shave a little off the top of the pistons and then we had to tighten the aluminum duel quad intake up to the heads first then tighten and torque the head bolts.. Never had any leaks or blown head gaskets and put over 80,000 miles on the motor,,she was quite happy.. Alternative is to machine a little off the mating surface of the intake manifold but then its not gonna be good for a 390,406,410,427,428 which is ultimatly what you want anyhow.. Run that 360 till shes spent then get you a regular FE.. 360 361 and 391 are FE engines but they are truck motors.. now i will tell you the 360 rods are super strong and same length as 390 rods.. My dad was a professional race engine builder and he said after the extreme abuse he put his built 360 thru that he feld very confident that if you bead blasted those rods you could put any amount of compression and boost you ever want and never bend or break those rods.Ours was a 69 360 too.
My plan is to swap in a 390 crank, with 390 rods, in combination with the 360 pistons. Then convert to a 4bbl "T" manifold (since I bought those parts already).. and see how much that wakes it up. I don't have any experience with that combination, but the published info looks like it should make great compression and all go together without much machine work. Good to know you have good experience
330_Garage hey be sure and record it all when you do it!
I never knew exactly how that thing work. Well done! Thanks
Totally identify with this. I just put one of these adjustable vacuum advances on my 390. I spent an hour trying to use a little mirror to read the numbers on my reman distributor with no success. I finally guessed and did the 3-1/2 turns. I used the non ported vacuum line port to test it. At the initial setting, the engine wanted to die when I started to connect the line. I ended up backing that thing out about 6 or 7 turns before it would idle correctly, which was well past the recommended adjustment for any of the Ford distributors. In essence, you might as well throw out the guide and do it by ear. If you use your non ported vacuum line, you will get it in the ballpark because you have full vacuum at idle on your non ported connection.
Excellent video on basics vacuum canister 101. I will carry this information in what I'm working on right now. Thank you and God bless
Glad it was helpful!
Very good and easy to understand what to do. Other videos I have watched showed the same thing but maybe more than need on some issues not enough on others. Liked the numbers at the end. I fully understand what to do now. I will be looking for more videos from you.
Thanks, glad you were able to get some use out of it!!
Lotsa variables in an engine even if built identical. You have great base line values . Next you tune it to maximize your fuel octane . You might add a little here subtract a little there in the timing!. I prefer pulling vacuum advance hose off, plugging the hose with a screw then setting maximum centrifugal advance and 3 to 3.5k rpm and letting idle advance stay wherever it lands,then hook vacuum back up. Afterward you tune your adjustble vacuum advance again to maximize whatever your fuel octane is.you engine may use more or less...360 are onown to be low compression. That being said ,low compression engine can often times benefit from slightly higher ignition advance. But you sticking to stock values is always the safest course to take!
Your instructions were clear and concise. Thanks for the help.
Thank you for showing a great video. I never knew a good way to go about it til now. I'm going to use your rules of thumb just to try it. I replaced mine about 4 months ago and never checked timing. The motor does not like getting over 4300 rpm and never has. I'll be trying 5.25 turns out first after running in all the way in. Thanks
Hello, I just stumbled on you channel and I am impressed ! Great job, you know your stuff my friend.
from reading my 1969 ford Manuel for 390 GT IN A MUSTANG WITH AUTO TRANS 4BBL 10.5:1 COMPRESSION. total timing should be no more than 34*. and no less than 25.5*. base timing for a lot of fords is 6* ,12* was rare. peak power on a FE -FT IS 38* BUT for safety and consistency tuners will pull 4*-6* from peak so 32*-34*. so WITH 24*mechanical +6*base =30*total about right for today's gas on low compression engine. best cruising is 50*-52*. the vacuum advance was was 18*-25* at 20 hg IN THE MANUEL. to days gas burns faster and has a slightly lower octane. in 1970 octane was at its peak around 90-92 for regular and 100 for premium under the RON METHOD OF OCTANE. WE NOW USE MON+RON/2. SO 100= PREMIUM WOLD BE 96-94 MON+RON/2 AND REGULAR WOLD BE 88-86 RON+MON/2 SO LESS TIMING TOTAL ABOUT 5*10* BUT NOT ALL WAYS. IF YOU LIVE IN A STATE WITH REFORMULATED GAS YOU NEED LESS TOTAL AS IT BURNS FASTER. COMPRESSION EFFECTS TOTAL TIMING AND A SMALL DEGREE CAM BUT THE BIG ONE IS COMBUSTION CHAMBER, BORE TO STROKE AS WELL AS ROD RATIO. SO WITH BASE TIMING AT 6* AND A MECHANICAL OF 24* FOR A TOTAL OF 30. I WOLD USE USE 18*-20* VACUUM ADVANCE FOR A TOTAL ADVANCE PLUS VACUUM OF 48*-50* DEGREES. 60* IS TOO MUCH FOR TODAY'S FUEL. I SET MINE BY SETTING MIXTURE AT 1.5 TUNS OUT FROM LIGHT SEAT. AND THE IDEL SPEED SCREW SET SO THE SCREW IS JUST TOUCHING THE THROTTLE THAN THEN GIVE I 1 TURN TO JUST SLIGHTLY OPEN THE THROTTLE. BRING UP THE ENGINE TO OPERATING TEMP AND LET IT RUN FOR 30 MINUETS ADJUST TIMING WITH VACUUM HOSE DISCONNECTED AND PLUNGED FOR MAX VACUUM THEN RETARD TILL IT DROPS 1 HG THEN TAKE A READING WITH THE LIGHT. SAY IT IS 25* THEN YOU WILL SET THE BASE AT SAY 6*. THEN YOU WILL NEED 19* VACCUM ADVANCE TO GET 25* IDLE. THE TOTAL IS THE MOST CRITICAL SO YOU WILL NEED TO POSSIBLY USE DIFFERENT BASE TIMING AND OR MOD THE MECHANICAL. RUN NO MORE THAN 20* VACUUM ADVANCE WITH MANIFOLD VACUUM. HOPE THIS WAS A HELP. AND NOW YOU KNOW THE BEST SETTINGS FOR A FT-FE GIVE THIS TIME BY VACUUM A TRY! O YOU VIDEO WAS GOOD!!!!!
I undestand how a destributor works! I have the oe specs for all the ford dizzys. and vac advance can be as low as 9* to a max of 14* on boss 302. 390 gt is 19-25* vaccum advance at crank! Centrifical is 19.5*-28* @4800 rpm! Base timing is 6* btc for a total macanical of 25.5-34* @4800 rpm at crank! Vaccm advanc can add 19-25* at idel and cruse! So no it is not a max of 12*! Smog engens had as much as 30* vaccum advance! You need to do more reading!
Just did this on my Mustang and the only thing I can add here is that you can adjust the canister in real time. Start by capping nipple and take your base "mechanical only" reading. Mine was 16. Then run a vacuum line from *manifold* vacuum (not ported, which has no idle vacuum) to the canister and take a reading. Mine was 26 so the canister is adding 10 degrees from vacuum. Then do the allen wrench thing with the motor running to fine tune. When you are happy you can optionally switch back to ported vacuum if that was your original vacuum source.
Thanks thats a good suggestion
You can’t switch between ported and manifold without making adjustments. The vacuum signal from each of them is entirely different at idle, just off idle and all the way until the throttle blades pass the ported vacuum hole in the barrel of the carb. At just off idle (which is where you cruise) ported vacuum is hanging around below 5 hg. That vacuum canister doesn’t even kick in until about 5 or 6 hg so you be getting zero vacuum advance if you’re connected to ported. If you’re connected to manifold you’ll get all of the advance that canister is set to give.
I have a question. Does it matter what vacuum port you plug in to?
yes. manifold vacuum. not ported vacuum.
New to classic cars. Thank ypu soooo much for sharing this! I have the exact engine in my 69 f100. Subbed.
What adjustable vacuum advance is that? I need one for my 352. Bought a new aftermarket points distributor and the vacuum advance it came with pulls way too much timing. So much it'll cause the engine to stumble a bit on cold high idle.
Thats a good question. I used a Standard Motor Products VC31
amzn.to/39sLquz
I'll update the description with that information.
@@330_garage3 Ordered one up, thanks!
would this cause the truck to die one first startup and then run rich and backfire once it warms up?
It could if the vacuum canister is bad. The engine pulls a lot of vacuum at idle, causing an increase in timing. The additional advance in timing, does increase the idle speed. For the backfire I would check your wires (loose or broken), spark plugs, and firing order. Those are the 3 most common issues for backfiring once warmed up.
Hands down the most in depth video on vacuum advanced timing
You're missing a value pan cover bolt on the passenger side nearest to the dizzy
What did you say about the spring weights under the point plate? Please explain how they operate.
So the weights are restricted by the small springs. As the engine speeds up, so does the rotating speed of the rotor and the weights. As the speed increases the springs are no longer able to hold the weights back and the weights start to fly outwards, which moves / twists the rotor so it contracts the plug terminals sooner in the compression stroke, giving you a timing advance, since the engine likes more timing at higher RPM. Then inversely, as the engine slows back down, the springs are able to re-gain control over the weights again, and retard the timing back to your base timing. Hope this helps!
@@330_garage3 Thanks, installed a new distributor that was heard running from another engine and i still get the backfire in the exhaust so i think it is the push rods or cam down or valve problem now.
@@thorthunder3227 If its running and backfiring through the exhaust, I would guess a stuck exhaust valve or a burnt exhaust valve (common in the FE motors)
@@330_garage3 yes, i removed the valve cover only to find out no oil was going onto the rockers and i have not been able to fix it yet but i think the valves were sticking open or not closing due to lack of oil., swelling i guess on the stem.
I have a question for you what are your plans for the truck once you get it running are you going to do a full restore including paint and new windows
hook your vacum line to the carb, run the truck to 3000 rpm, then check total timing.
Total timing does not include vacuum advance.
Great video. Very clear explanation.
Does the vacuum pull upon acceleration or at idle
i think its proportional the higher the revs/acceleration the more vaccume?
Hey is 330 your area code?? If so then we live very close to each other..Im serious about buying that truck if your ever want to sell..
Nice video. Thank you
Awesome video!! Really helpful!
Fantastic informative video
Did you drain the fuel tank?
Clean lines are always needed
hopefully this is what's causing my backfiring issues on my 300 six. if I'm very slow with acceleration, the advance moves but if I go any faster, the advance doesn't move.
Is this even correct? I thought the screw adjusted the amount of vacuum needed to pull the advance not how far it pulls it.
Like if you have big cam that makes less than stock vacuum you loosen the advance screw so it takes less vacuum to achieve full advance?
great video
Confused about adjustment. I would think tightening would limit.
I agree, It does seem backwards, but its not.
We called the game "Operation".
Ahh!..You're right! it was called OPERATION! ( I haven't actually played it in years)
What camera do you use to film your videos?
A Sony A6000, with a shotgun mic. amzn.to/2LS9lc8
I also use a GoPro Hero for close up shots and better audio.
Excellent
What is mechanical advance
Mechanical advance, is the distributor spinning at a faster RPM as the engine spins faster, then some weights inside the distributor start to move outward, which causes the spark to happen sooner in the combustion cycle. You generally want the timing to be more advanced as the engine speeds up for better performance and fuel efficiency through the RPM range.
@@330_garage3 so then, what exactly does the vacuum advance accomplish, if routed to manifold vacuum?
Interesting, thanks.
There is a way easier way to test the vacume canister lol.. take it off and push the lever in now hold your thumb over the nipple .. if the lever stays in its good if it extends while your thumbs on the nipple its bad.. easy peasy.
and I thought I had a pretty easy solution... that's even easier!
Well I hate to admit this. I'm 73, and have turned wrenches most of them years. I never knew about the adjustment screw inside the diaphragm. Funny cause I should of known. I used to fool other kids into thinking I camed the motor by just unhooking the vacuum advance and then when it idles, it would lope a little making other kids think I was bad a**/LOL. I see by the rotation of the distributor that the timing chain is stretched and has been made up for it by rotating the distributor. Now I know most call for about eight to ten degrees and your coming up with a much higher number. What gives? I would really like to know
Man, fan on backwards !
check the old one
Youre going to tear the diagram if you over pump the vacuum. Stop
.
Omg, learn to take the clips off first, spare us 20mins.