Great video, MAMO and fun to see the vintage and new versions side by side! I agree with you, these are a novelty but an interesting internal mechanism that allows the lead to constantly feed out as it's being used. How strange that there wasn't a way to retract the lead that came out of the tip when you were checking on the refillable set up. So there is no manual way to bring the lead in our out of the barrel. I wonder what the significance of the green "+" is on the new version? Thanks for the fun look at these!
I think the + refers to the fact that it's a new version that is refillable. But I could be wrong. Perhaps I could have pulled that lead all the way out and dropped it back in the back; I was concerned about damaging the internal advancing mechanism. When one doesn't know how it works, one doesn't know what might break it! Thanks, Kevin!
The pencil I keep in my chest pocket is one from Uni called Kuru Toga. It advances and rotates the lead so that it produces a conical sharpened tip. It seems like they solved all the problems with this one. You can still manually advance and adjust the lead. The clutch mechanism also provides some cushion, along with a metal sleeve at the tip, so you're less likely to break the lead. Mine is a 0.5mm, and normally, that would be too fine for me, but it works well for that pencil.
@@ma-mo Coincidentally, I ended up using all day today in a training course -- more than I've used it in total since I got it! Worked wonderfully. Although I had no lead breaks and the lines are good, I think I'm going to buy another in 0.7mm.
I really like the Ticonderoga highlighters, but they're a challenge to find in my neck of the woods. I think I've used their pencils, but didn't love them. However, I've not even heard of their sesematic pencil. thank you
I do enjoy these videos to see things I normally don't even think about. I have never even given much thought to these mechanical pencils, as I use just reg ones when sketching. I am also a cheapskate at heart, and would never spend $6 on a set of them. take care
I remember using these in school, as I recall I didn't like them much because of the writing position issue you mentioned. If I'm going to use a disposable mechanical pencil, I much prefer the Sharpwriter. I like the springiness. I prefer wood pencils. I do like the Kuru-Toga pencil though - have you ever used one?
I used to have a Kuru-Toga pencil; not sure what happened to it. If I recall correctly, its selling point was it automatically rotated the lead so you kept a uniform point. Is that right?
@@ma-mo Indeed that is it. Although unless you write in blockprint with a lot of short strokes, the Kuru-toga is best left for oriental style writing like Korean or Chinese. It feels spongy when you use it for cursive.
It must use a clutch system on the tip. When you apply pressure on it, it likely triggers a ratchet system that pushes more lead out. Unless you can pull out the eraser on the back to get access to the lead tube (like you can with the BICs), the first iteration is a huge waste of money and good plastic. The new model is... eh. Give me a regular cheap mechpen with a metal nib any day over these. Oh, in time: you may be able to get the lead back in if you push on the edge of the tip right beside the lead with a fingernail, to trigger the pressure mechanism.
@@ma-mo Agreed. It's an experimental system with no safe reliable backup. Me personally, I'd only ship this out if it had one such backup, like the clicky tail system, hidden beneath the eraser on the rear.
Great video, MAMO and fun to see the vintage and new versions side by side! I agree with you, these are a novelty but an interesting internal mechanism that allows the lead to constantly feed out as it's being used. How strange that there wasn't a way to retract the lead that came out of the tip when you were checking on the refillable set up. So there is no manual way to bring the lead in our out of the barrel. I wonder what the significance of the green "+" is on the new version? Thanks for the fun look at these!
I think the + refers to the fact that it's a new version that is refillable. But I could be wrong.
Perhaps I could have pulled that lead all the way out and dropped it back in the back; I was concerned about damaging the internal advancing mechanism. When one doesn't know how it works, one doesn't know what might break it!
Thanks, Kevin!
There most likely is a system, but an unorthodox and faffy one that I wouldn't really bother with.
The pencil I keep in my chest pocket is one from Uni called Kuru Toga. It advances and rotates the lead so that it produces a conical sharpened tip. It seems like they solved all the problems with this one. You can still manually advance and adjust the lead. The clutch mechanism also provides some cushion, along with a metal sleeve at the tip, so you're less likely to break the lead. Mine is a 0.5mm, and normally, that would be too fine for me, but it works well for that pencil.
I've heard much good about that pencil, and I seem to recall owning one at some point, years ago. Must've lost it!
@@ma-mo Coincidentally, I ended up using all day today in a training course -- more than I've used it in total since I got it! Worked wonderfully. Although I had no lead breaks and the lines are good, I think I'm going to buy another in 0.7mm.
I really like the Ticonderoga highlighters, but they're a challenge to find in my neck of the woods. I think I've used their pencils, but didn't love them. However, I've not even heard of their sesematic pencil. thank you
I wouldn't really rush out to find one, though.
@@ma-mo Thanks for that info. =)
I do enjoy these videos to see things I normally don't even think about. I have never even given much thought to these mechanical pencils, as I use just reg ones when sketching.
I am also a cheapskate at heart, and would never spend $6 on a set of them. take care
Thanks, Robert!
For 6 dollars I'd much rather get 3 Pentel Sharps.
I remember using these in school, as I recall I didn't like them much because of the writing position issue you mentioned. If I'm going to use a disposable mechanical pencil, I much prefer the Sharpwriter. I like the springiness. I prefer wood pencils. I do like the Kuru-Toga pencil though - have you ever used one?
I used to have a Kuru-Toga pencil; not sure what happened to it. If I recall correctly, its selling point was it automatically rotated the lead so you kept a uniform point. Is that right?
@@ma-mo Yes, it rotated the lead every time you lifted the pencil so you always had a uniform point. It's really the only mechanical pencil I like.
@@ma-mo Indeed that is it. Although unless you write in blockprint with a lot of short strokes, the Kuru-toga is best left for oriental style writing like Korean or Chinese. It feels spongy when you use it for cursive.
It must use a clutch system on the tip. When you apply pressure on it, it likely triggers a ratchet system that pushes more lead out.
Unless you can pull out the eraser on the back to get access to the lead tube (like you can with the BICs), the first iteration is a huge waste of money and good plastic. The new model is... eh. Give me a regular cheap mechpen with a metal nib any day over these.
Oh, in time: you may be able to get the lead back in if you push on the edge of the tip right beside the lead with a fingernail, to trigger the pressure mechanism.
This definitely feels like one half of a good idea: just not completely ready for production.
@@ma-mo Agreed. It's an experimental system with no safe reliable backup.
Me personally, I'd only ship this out if it had one such backup, like the clicky tail system, hidden beneath the eraser on the rear.
hola le recomiendo el portaminas maped automatic 0.5 ami me gusto